To estimate the number of balusters needed for a railing project, multiply the total railing length in linear feet by three, as the average rail will have roughly three balusters or spindles per running foot, assuming a 4-inch spacing. A baluster calculator is a useful tool that helps determine the number of balusters required for your railing project. It considers factors affecting spacing, such as the horizontal baluster’s width and gap, and the minimum height of the railing.
Loose balusters can compromise the railing’s safety and effectiveness. Balusters should complement the railing’s design and your home’s architecture, such as slender ones. To determine the quantity required, take your rail length in inches and divide by 6.25. The general rule of thumb is to have three balusters per foot to avoid gaps greater than four inches. If you place one baluster every 4 inches on center, you should be fine.
To determine the number of balusters needed, take the tread run divided by the number of balusters per tread. For example, if you have a tread run of 10 and begin with a 2 baluster rail, multiply the total railing length in linear feet by three. Measure between posts and add the thickness of one baluster. Divide that number by the sum of the code-allowed space between balusters, and the rail’s length by the area of the spindle and required spacing to determine the number of spindles.
In summary, determining the number of balusters needed for a railing project requires careful planning and consideration of factors such as railing length, posts, post and baluster widths, and spacing. By following these guidelines, you can ensure the safety and effectiveness of your railing project.
📹 How to get EVENLY SPACED Spindles!
Poorly spaced spindles are an eyesore. This video will teaches the basic math formula for getting even spaces between your …
How do you calculate how many spindles you need?
In order to calculate the number of stair spindles that are required, it is necessary to count the number of treads that are present on a single flight of stairs. The resulting figure should then be multiplied by two and subsequently subtracted by two. For example, if a balustrade has 16 steps, it would require 30 spindles for a new stair renovation project. This calculation guarantees that a single spindle is sufficient for the top and bottom steps of the newel post.
Are 2 or 3 balusters per step?
In accordance with the building code, a 4-inch sphere must be unable to fit between two balusters at any point, for reasons pertaining to safety. This regulation is in place to prevent children from becoming trapped between two balusters or from climbing through the opening. To calculate this, one must first divide the rise by the number of balusters per tread. It should be noted that each baluster is half the height of the riser and has a length that is greater than that of the previous baluster.
What is the rule for baluster spacing?
For instance, if using 2-1/2″ wide Balusters, the space between their unturned portions should be 3-3/4″, or about 6″ on center spacing. However, larger Balusters over 3″ are typically spaced closer than the rule indicates, as the open space between their most deeply turned points is approaching the 4″ rule. Carpenters typically consider “on center” spacing when installing Balusters, aiming to know the distance from the center of one Baluster to the center of the next.
What is the baluster formula?
To calculate the center to center spacing of two balusters per tread, divide the tread run by the number of balusters per tread. For a 10-tread run, two balusters per tread pattern, the spacing is 5″. To determine the position of Baluster 1, subtract ½ of the baluster bases width from step 2, resulting in a distance of 7/8″. For Baluster 2, add the baluster spacing to the measurement to get the position of Baluster 2, which is 9 1/8″. This calculation helps in determining the optimal spacing for your tread pattern.
How do you calculate the number of balusters needed?
The general rule for deck railings is to have three balusters per foot, with the length of the railing determining the number of balusters needed for safety standards. A deck railing and spindle calculator can help determine the required balusters for your project. Local building safety codes require a deck with a minimum height of 3 feet (36 inches) from the deck’s surface to the top of the railing.
If your deck is near steep drops, embankments, or cliffs, it is essential to include a railing for safety purposes. It is best to consult local building codes when securing a permit to build your deck.
What is the code for baluster spacing?
Railing baluster and infill gaps should not exceed 4 inches wide, and the space between decking and bottom rail should not exceed 4 inches. Deck stairs have a 6 inch gap. The deck railing post spacing code requires posts to stay within 8 feet of each other to meet strength requirements. IRC and IBC guidelines dictate strength requirements, including uniform load on guardrails, infills, handrails, concentrated load on guardrails, and linear load on guardrails.
Do I need a railing for 3 steps?
Handrails are typically required for stairs with three or more steps, although some codes may also mandate their installation on two-step stairs. The overall height of the staircase is also a factor in determining the necessity of handrails.
What is the rule for spindles?
In accordance with the prevailing building regulations, the distance between spindles is restricted to a maximum of 99mm. This is subject to a minimum of two spindles per tread and a maximum of one per tread on newel posts situated on landings. In the event that 32mm spindles are required, the measurement between newel posts should be divided by 112.
Why are balusters typically spaced no more than 4 apart?
The standard building code mandates that the space between balusters should not exceed 4 inches to prevent small children from passing through. To meet this requirement, one baluster should be placed every 4 inches on the center of the staircase. Balusters, also known as spindles, are vertical posts that support the handrail and form part of the balustrade system. A well-planned baluster layout enhances the aesthetics of a staircase and ensures compliance with building codes.
The process involves determining the tread run, which is the horizontal distance from the front of one step to the front of the next, and then calculating the baluster spacing. The goal is to achieve an even distribution of balusters along the tread, ensuring that the spacing does not exceed the maximum allowed by code.
What is the maximum distance between balusters?
In accordance with the regulations set forth by the U. S. building codes, balusters are required to have a minimum distance of 4 inches between them. This stipulation is designed to ensure the safety and visibility of children in the event of an accident or emergency. This close proximity precludes the possibility of them becoming wedged or slipping. For further information on deck support columns, beams, and framing, please refer to the website or register to access design tools and tutorials.
📹 Quick Tip for Spacing Balusters Evenly | Ask This Old House
In this video, This Old House general contractor Tom Silva shows host Kevin O’Connor a quick, simple trick for spacing balusters …
Baluster Formula with fillets or spacing without shoe molding: I usually take the TS(total span) and divide it by 5.5 to get an approximate BN(baluster number) then plug it into the following formula. Other variables are BW(baluster width) and the result your aiming for which is FL(fillet length) So say 100″ for TS divided by 5.5″ = about 18 balusters EXAMPLE- TS-(BNxBW)/BN+1=FL 100-(18×1.5)/18+1=FL 100-27/19=FL 73/19=FL 3.84=FL So FL=about 3 13/16″ spacing or fillet length I then Check it just like you, marking off the spacing and adjust the last 3 balusters(on a run this long) for pretty much consistent looking spacing. This works best for square balusters. For balusters that have been turned with deep grooves I usually divide the TS by “5” to bring the balusters a bit closer to try to hit the 4 inch mark. Learned this from my Uncle years ago.
Fitting spindles in the UK is way much easier than that set up. Most handrails and baserails are grooved so the spindles sit in. The spacer block comes as one thin length, chop it up into the lengths you need and tack or glue them in between the spindles. I often work in imperial but such jobs as spindles, metric is much easier.
hot furniture making tip for hiding screws (if you’re not doing it properly with joinery): for each screw mark the position, then use a gouge to peel up a small shaving on the area where the screw will go. don’t cut it all the way, leave it attached at one end, so what you will end up is a thin curl of wood adjacent to each screw position. put in your screw, then glue down each curl over the screw and fasten tightly with tape. let it dry, a light sanding and you’re good to go. the fixings will be completely invisible.
Ben, great article 1- regarding the top rail. When you’re drilling the base rail, clamp the top rail down the center of the base. So when you make a drill plunge you make a duplicate. Use a drill stop in the cap, not to drill through the top cap. Boar out larger size hole into spindles and bottom of cap rail, to use wood dowels and glue to secure top rail. Finished product is strong as using hardware. 2- another method to secure top rail. Make a dual section cap. A plate that’s rectangular in shape and the width of the spindle, line up cap like above screw all the way through. Adhere from the top down into the spindles with screws. Place a “U” shape cap rail over the base rail. Glue the mounted cap, shoot finished brads into the sides. Now you have the strength of the screw and a finished hand rail cap no securing method showing 🙂
If i want even spaces like here, I roughly measure how many spindles I need and what their distance from one to another should be. I always try to get an uneven number of spindles and then start with the one in the middle. That creates two “windows” to the right and the left of my first spindle whose center I can use again. Then I just go on using the centers in the windows arising and all the spindles are in even distances. Takes a little longer than your method but gets everything perfectly evenly spaced. Sorry for my bad English, I hope you somehow know what I mean… 😊
Great content, love your articles! I think the reason your layout didn’t ad up is simple, you measured your empty space with all the spindles pushed together which is great, that accounts for all the variences the spindles may have.. when you did your lay out you used the same block repeatedly… Which doesn’t account for the variences between 20 pieces.. I guess one way your method would have worked out is if you had used a thickness planer prior to doing the layout.. it only takes 8 spindles to be short by 1/32 to equate that 1/4″ gap. Hope this makes sense! Cheers 🙂
“Story pole”… What I usually do is, on a scrap 2×2 that’s longer than your opening, I mark the layout as desired. Make centerline marks, one at 1/2 of overall and other at nearest spindle (center). Place story pole next to bottom plate at centerline. It’s going to be one of the two cl marks on story pole. Even spacing every time with the exception of the ends. They’ll be even with each other but not the course.
Get a measuring tape that has both decimals and fractions, hard to find but when you do buy two. Tip one make a list, down lode it from the web save in your note book or your phone.1/32=.03125, 1/16=.0625, 3/32=.09375, 1/8=.125, 5/32=.15625, 3/16=.1875, 7/32=.21875, 1/4=.25 etc. No toe screws, it’s going to be painted. pre- driil counter sink fill the top with a dowel and gorilla glue (whatever that expansion foam stuff is called) sand and paint.
1. Take overall inside measurement. 2. Add width of spindle to overall inside measurement. 3. Determine desired spacing between spindles and add width of one spindle. 4. Divide sum of ( # .1) by ( # .3 ) 5. Round quotient of ( # .4) to closest whole #. 6. Divide ( #.1) by whole # from ( #.5 ) . If there is a remainder, convert it from tenths to 16ths of an inch by multiplying by 16. THIS IS THE ON CENTER SPACING OF SPINDLES. 7. EXAMPLE… if ( #.6) is ( 4.5 inches ) then ( .5 × 16 ) = 8. Which is 8/16. Which is reduced to 1/2″. SO…4.5 ” is 4-1/2″. REMEMBER… there is a life safety code that restricts maximum spacing on railings. 8. Finally, begin layout by burning thickness of one spindle, then layout using your acquired measurement from ( #.5). AGAIN…YOU MUST LOOK @ LAYOUT FROM CENTER TO CENTER OF SPINDLES. TO RECAP… beginning @ inside, overall measurement…burn thickness of one spindle and then put mark @ measurement you got from ( #.5 ) Put an X behind or. ” set back ” from your layout marks. The spindles go on the side of mark where the X is. Simple Arithmetic… If you don’t know what it means to ” burn ” just ask any carpenter. Or just get him to do it for you.
When installing, start in the middle so that you can do your little fudge on each ends. Second, when checking your dimensions with your pencil and block, you can cut the time it takes in half by only doing half, and then confirming it to be halfway with the tape measure. This is true of any divided, segmented material layout.
I am a 66 yr old handyman in Northern California wine country – Sonoma County – NOT Napa. I have been handy manning for 27 years – before that I was a mechanical engineer in Silicon Valley. Regarding your spacing — that is exactly how i do it. There is ALWAYS a little fudge factor at the end that you distribute among the last 3-6 pieces. Well done! Human perception is NOT THAT accurate!
I was a custom deck builder for almost 30 years. The simplest method that I ever used, was making a very simple jig. Assuming you’re working with 1.5″ baluster w/ a 4″ center… 1. Mark the layout on a piece of scrap wood…1.5″ on each end w/ 4″ center. 2. Assuming you’re not exceeding a layout beyond 8′ (post to post), you can accomplish each section layout in well under 2 minutes…Start by transferring the marks from the jig onto your rail (use a light pencil mark). Keep the jig in your pouch for quick easy access. 3. Lets assume that the last mark is 3″ from the end post (opposite from your first mark)…You now know that you can just divide the 3″ & then remark the rail a second time w/ a 1.5″ space off of the first post. It’s so easy, it sounds stupid. No calculators or paper needed, fast & easy…especially if working outside in the elements. Works on any rail, stair rails take a little more practice, but still basically works the same.
A curiosity about a potential alternative order of operations since I haven’t had to work with spindles yet: 1.) Mark center line along length of base plate 2.) Do the math to determine spacing based on spindle centers 3.) Walk a pair of wing dividers, opened to the spacing determined in step 2, along the center line to mark the center of each spindle’s attachment point 4.) Drill and screw to install spindles Would that be any faster and/or more consistent without having to fudge spacing at the end?
Instead of marking the top rail on the bottom of the spindles you can make a template piece the same length and put those marks on it, then put it on top of the spindles and attach it to both the newel posts so it doesn’t move, line up and drill all the dowel holes. Take that template and drill the top rail, then cut the template in half and use it to clamp the spindles in alignment. Simpler than it sounds.
For the top rail, particularly since this will be painted – could you thickness the rail to be ~3/16″ oversized then rip it 3/4’s up from the bottom. Use the 3/4”s piece to attach it directly into your spindles from the top. Than glue your remaining 1/4″ piece to the in place top and plane the sides flush of any variation? Basically, just veenering a top on to hide all the screw heads?
This Old House had an awesome method for this. Get some elastic from the fabric store and lay it out between the newel posts. Starting at one end make a mark on the elastic every 4″. At the far end of course you’ll have something less than 4″ to the other newel post. Hold down the starting end and stretch the elastic until the last mark lines up with the newel post. All the marks will move proportionately. Transfer your marks to your work piece and walla! Perfectly spaced spindles. Note that since spindles are typically 1-1/2″ thick you have some room to stretch before you end up with greater than 4″ gaps between the spindles.
Thanks for the overview, I learned a couple of tricks I can use and appreciate it. And you do know that you can buy Imperial measuring tape that has markings in decimal .. right?? That being said, It’s not ‘easier’ in metric if one has the skills and practices. No matter what measuring system is used, one can still end up with an odd fraction depending on the number of spindles one has. Using an ‘odd’ number of spindles means an even number of spaces which can make the math easier. The reality is that anything less than 1/8 isn’t noticeable by most people, and 1/16th by most of the rest. Adjusting at the ends works. In this case, you could have done one at 3 13/16s and the next and 3 14/16ths (7/8s). Then the adjustments at the end would have been even less. I find that starting in the middle can be better as one has two ends to make the micro-adjustments. It can require a little more precision at first, but I’ve done it successfully. Regardless, thank you for taking the time to make the article. I always learn something new perusal your articles.
Once you know the spindle count is 20, use your framing square to set a perpendicular to the far post (inside edge). Then draw your tape out to 120″ from the inside edge of the near post to the perpendicular. Mark off every 4″ and using a framing square. Then drop a perpendicular line to the actual work piece. Each mark will be exactly spaced with no math. Of course this won’t work in every situation as you might not have room. Just select a workable number of spindles…perhaps 5 in this case. Do the same thing to get your spacing. Then use dividers to mark out the other locations or make a story stick for five spindles and just move it down the line.
I’m only a padawn to jedi however easy method is –> (entire span – width of all materials)/number of spaces= distance between materials **be sure to CENTER material on ur layout marks Ex.144″ is total span 14″ total material >> 4×4 post>>3 1/2 in (4x) Subtract total width of material from total span. That’s 130. Divide this by nunber of spaces. Those 4 posts create 3 spaces. 130÷3 = 43.1. If you trust in the force 43.1″ is the space between each center-center. May the force be with you.
measure by inch is good, but is a bit easier here with use mm instead. 110.75″ = 2813.05mm, 80.75″ = 2051.05mm, so 2813.05mm – 2051.05mm = 762mm. Then divided it by 21 = 36.2857mm per each gap. It is still a long decimal number, but this decimal number is slightly easier on mm than on inch measurement, agree?
I do alot of rail and here is my way 110.75 + 1.5 ” 1 picket ” =112.25 ÷ 5.5 = 20.409 round up to 21 . So 112.25 ÷ 21 spaces = 5.342 centers 20 pickets then using calculator store 5.342 in memory function then add memory recall and continue thru entire length. For example 5.342+ memory recall = 10.684 + memory recall = 16.026 … this is basic math and with a little practice your pickets will be perfect every time and layout top and bottom at same time with square
thanks, love your work But I’m lost, no doubt like those outside the USA other than Myanmar and Liberia who use imperial measurements, we can’t follow the math measurements – I know why as you’ve argued the case before that even Canadian’s use imperial measurement because building products as they are supplied that way – youtube.com/watch?v=fnJfrAjbkR0 But in this case – well it’d be nice if you could have done it both ways Just saying
Save yourself the math. Purchase like a 1/2″ heavy rubber band or elastic strap, maybe 12’. Put hash marks on the loose strap say every 3″ or 4″, you’ll figure it out. Secure it to one of the posts then stretch it to whatever spacing you want and make your mark. Perfect spacing for however many spindles you want.
Ben, search the Internet for a rivet fan spacing tool. Tell me if that tool will make spacing stair spindles a snap. I have seen as large a 20 hole (less that $40 USD). There are no calculations involved for up to 20 spots and I see no reason why it cannot go higher once you do the first 20. There are smaller ones that you can use for jobs like spacing coat hooks or anything else that needs equal but wierd spacing. Code says 4 inches but with this you can easily change spacing to check the look of less than 4. If you like it do a new article on it!
I use the diagonal stick method. If my distance between posts is some random awkward measurement, I cut a piece of lumber longer than that and clamp it from post to post diagonally. If I need 18 spindles, then I might cut it at 95 inches and then mark every 5 inches on the diagonal stick. Attach the stick to your posts, and plumb bob down from your pencil marks on the diagonal clamped on stick and voila, done. Very little math and PERFECT RESULTS EACH TIME. For hiding the nails or screws on the top of the spindles, I often use a nailer strip and go down through there. Then I attach the hand rail by going up through the nailer strip into the hand rail (assuming I’m not using dowels and glue).
Sorry don’t know your name. Go into play store and get construction master app free version. It will work out your spacing perfect. There are other things on it that helps you. Suspended ceilings input the room size it tells you how many main tee,how much wire everything. Input room size on the decorating function tells you how many rolls of wallpaper for a given room. In the settings feature one can change to metric or imperial. Hope this helps.
You could have drilled dowel holes and glued and doweled the tops. Probably would have worked best if you drilled the balusters before attaching the bottoms using a jig so the holes wouldn’t wander due to grain variations. One other thing I would suggest unless you have the abilty to use a drill press, when you drill your screw holes, drill from the side the balusters are going to be on. That way the screw holes will be in the dead center of the balusters even if your aim/angle is off on the drilling.
Good article – If viewing in the UK the 4″ GAP would not be suitable as it comes to almost 102mm metric. You would have to do the same as above but allow for 99mm max gap as Building Control states that “Construction should be such that a 100mm sphere CANNOT pass through any opening in the guarding” – hence 99mm max. (Possibly allow for even tighter spacing if not straight but curved spindles and or newels)
The incremental error introduced by rounding and then using a cut off & a spacer block is the problem with this method. I’d add 1.5″ to the overall length (half of a baluster width at each end, so 110.75 + 1.5 = 112.25), divide that by the number of spaces (112.25 / 21= 5.345″) which rounds to 3 5 3/8″”) which gives you your ‘centres’ dimension. Then, starting from one newel I’d lay out off a tape butting into the face of the newel, the centres dimension giving you the ‘far’ face of the baluster from the newel. A ConstructionMaster calculator or phone app (or other similar) will give you the overall rounded ‘centres’ dimensions, one by one, without any incremental error. No fudging needed. Also, the spacing is so babies can’t get their heads THRU the gap not so they don’t get stuck – if baby can get head thru the gap then baby can go downstairs quicker than baby should.
also dowels and glue is best for setting hand rail. no holes, no nails stronger connection. We will use a piece of flat mdd baseboard or something nice and straight at the base plate clamped parallel to the base plate against the first and last post which will keep all the posts parallel as it dries. if the rail is bowed in the centre you can toe screw the middle spindle top and bottom or you can use a clamp between ceiling and rail to push down over night
It’s an year-old article, but… have you ever done marking with a square instead of pre-cut spacer block? Basically laying down tape measure at an angle alone side the base board, leveraging it the way it ends at a whole number. Then using a square against the base board mark the base board against whole numbers on the tape measure. I believe you showed this technique on a small wood piece in the past.
Metric in NZ too, a lot easier. Been a while since I did a hand rail but last time I divided all the gaps in half until I got down to the last size which happened to be just smaller than what was regulation, in that case halving worked okay. So say your total length was 1.6 meters half that is 800 millimeters then half that is 400 millimeters then half that is 200 mm then finally half that is 100 mm (or 4 inches ) to the center. If it works out close it’s a quick easy way as you can just quickly work it out on a piece of paper or the good old block of wood.
I was with you at 112.25″ being divided by 21 which gives a spacing or 5.34″. Your first spacing from either post would be 5.34″ less 3/4″ (half the with of a baluster) and then 5.34″ for each baluster center after that. I use divider calipers and walk off the spacing to the next newel. If the spacing is slightly off I make a minor adjustment in the caliper and start from the other end until the spacing is correct. You can also use a calculator and keep adding 5.34″ to get the next center.
I still don’t understand how you with the imperial system can practically use small numbers/fractions. I’m talking about fractions under 1/4″. It seems too difficult to me 🙂 While I’m at it; I’ll brag about the metric system. You can take any measurement and easily convert it all the way from micro to lightyears, grams to tonnes, ml to m3. You only add or subtract 0 to the number.
I rebuilt my front porch yesterday. Today we did the railing. After trying a little math I wound up using sketch-up. There is a division tool that will give you the exact dimension. Yes, I then cut a spacer. For longer runs of railing like on my deck, I put down masking tape for the last 4 feet or so. If it wasn’t coming out quite right I would make an adjustment on another piece of tape. But basically the same as what you are doing here. Thanks for the upload.
Could you have started with the top piece, where you drive screws through the top and laminate with like half inch board to hide them, then trim off the glue/sides with a router? Probably overcomplicate d but a way to hide screws? Though I think your way of attaching the spindles is the stronger, akin to pocket hole joinery
When I turned my deck into a screened porch I recycled all of the spindles. They were much longer and angled on the ends where they screwed onto the side of the deck. I recut them and since they were old and weathered I sanded every single one of them until the gray was gone and they looked brand new. I had the same issue with spacing. With a screened in porch you have the roof posts spaced among the spindles. Most of the posts are just 2×4’s but in the center and corners you have a 4×4 to carry the weight, so calculating the gap on the sides was the thing. But what was hard was inserting the railing back on between the roof posts. How do you screw them into place? Screwing from an angle through the 4×4 posts is not fun. Splitting the wood sucks. So I came up with an ingenious method. Each railing is held in place with 2 screws and two dowel rods. I would drill a wide hole half way through the 2×4 post on one side, then drill a narrow hole the rest of the way to the other side. This would allow me to counter sink the screw half way through the post and into the railing on one side. Then I would put a dowel rod in the wide end and that would be one of the supports for the rail on the other side. No ugly screws drilled through the posts at angles (except on the corners). And to make things more interesting once the rail and spindles were put in I installed lights in the railing. I took apart a strand of outdoor lights, carefully analyzing how the wires cross over and around each other.
you should always mark centres of each post not edges. especially when dealing with an irregular material like wood. There I also a far simpler way to do this. Find centre of the space then if you want a 4″ spacing simply take the spindle with plus space (as he did) so 5.5″ and lay your tape at an interval of 5.5 so say 44 or 49.5 etc to get yourself as close as you can to your end. If that space is greater than half of 5.5″ you will set the centre of a space at your over all centre mark instead of the centre of a spindle. Its always one or the other. once you’ve decided which it is simple make a mark every 5.5″
Step it off with dividers starting with 5.5″ maximum and making adjustments until it comes out evenly… you are marking one side of the spindle. Once set, if needed, work from the other end of the railing to mark the other side of the spindle. This will also tell you how many spindles you need whereas you had to figure that out beforehand. This eliminates the marking creep that can happen when marking in the manner demonstrated, and it also eliminates the rounding errors that come from converting decimals to fractions.
First issue, not double screwing the bottom rail balusters which can now twist over time. Dowels would have been a better option than screws, but again the balusters can twist…even after being glued. Ideally, you could have dado’ed the top and bottom rail and ripped some biscuits to fit between the balusters inside the dado. Glue and double brad each baluster, brads hidden inside dado/biscuits.
I would start laying out the short side. First with minimum number of spindles (closest to max 4″) and then with one extra. After that I calculate the long side, given the two spaces, to see wich one of theese would be the best match. From there I would either move the post slightly or use the space that is the best match and adjust it. This way I get the smallest difference on short and long side.
(Total length + width of one post) devided by number of spaces. That should give you the spacing between each post, except start and end is minus half the width of a post. This only works if all posts are the same size. I would also predrill top and bottom at the same time, but not all the way through the top. Then make the predrilled holes in the top larger to fit a dowel, and use that to hold the posts. Gluing that is just as strong, if not stronger, than a screw.
Great method on the layout. Re:top screws I would have used a 1/4″ x 1.5″ sub-rail strip and top screwed/glued into that. Then either let that form a 1/4″ shadow line on the underside of the cap, or plowed a 1.5″ wide dado the length of the cap rail, either full 1/4″ depth for a flush look, or maybe 1/8″ to leave a 1/8″ shadow line. Either way, then you glue and screw UP into the cap rail. You still have a few fasteners to conceal but it’s much less noticeable, and can add a lot of strength if glued/clamped.
When I worked for a stair builder, we would use a pair of dividers set to the distance between the ballisters on center. Then starting from the center point of the first ballister, walk them down to the location of the center of the last ballister. If you were off, adjust the dividers more or less to compensate for the difference, then walk them down again from start to finish. At each point, we drilled holes in the floor and the railing for the ballister dowel pins, which we glued in place. This method was fast and accurate and works for curves as well as straight lines. We once built and put in an elliptical staircase where the curve of the balcony followed the ellipse curve of the stairs and this method worked perfectly.
I definitely would not toe screw or pocket screw those spindles. I think my choice would be to remove the top rail, drill small holes in the spindles and top plate and insert dowels, glue it. If you’re concerned about clamping it while the glue sets you could use a split dowel with a wedge which tightens it in the hole when it is fully inserted.
Looks great… But I’d go with screws on top. But the way I would of done it, I would of made the newel post taller, then used an additional handrail/Gaurd rail above the screws making it a two piece system. That would of covered the screws making the handrail more robust. Then attach that additional handrail from below, screw it from in between a few of the spindles. But it’s all getting painted… 🙂 Plus your math is spot on.
It’s not illegal to buy a tape with centimetres on it, in the states, is it ? What’s the size of the timber on the deck please. I like what you’ve done there and I’m going to do the same. Just re watched your article to check the distance between the spindles and work out my project. I gave up trying to understand what you were talking about with your inches. Thats fucked man.
First I have to say that I just love, love, love your articles! Now I think I would’ve used your spacer and laid all of your spindles out in order to get a good feel for how they would line up in the run. Then make your adjustments and marks as needed. After putting the single screw in the bottom of each one I would go back with a small nail towards the corner of each in order to keep them from ever twisting. On the top after getting your marks made use wooden dowels in the center of each and you can still use a small nail to the side of each just drive it a little more than halfway into each spindle and then cut the head off at an angle. I hope this helps in the future for projects that won’t be painted. 🙂
So I’m born and bred metric but living in the imperial Britain where metric is almost everywhere. Still managed to pick up some imperial habits like 2 by 4s and such. Sometimes it’s just quicker that way as metric measures are often derivatives of imperial. So why on earth do you insist on converting imperial into fractions and back again? Wasting so much time and potentially losing accuracy? Metric tapes are available worldwide now at a click of a button. Not to mention all kinds of apps. You’re costing your economy tons in wasted time and materials. Please can somebody explain this to my European brain?
I use the same math as you do for calculating the baluster space distance. I don’t fumble around with a tape measure or cut a spacing block to lay out because of the accumulative errors that will occur. I use dividers to walk off the spacing before hand and you can tell straight away when you’re wrong. I usually start from the top rail and plumb bob down to start the bottom.
Great article honestly it really helped. I was breaking my head for about two hours trying to figure out how to evenly space them on a railing with a curve. This helped me make a spacer for in between each spindle and therefore I wouldn’t have to worry about them sliding down anymore. Thank you so much!
Great article Ben, But there’s a much easier way of laying out ballusters…. Take overall run, add the thickness of 1 balluster. (Known as a ghost balluster).Divide this new run by desired space and balluster. Ex. 48″ of run + 1/12″ balluster -491/2″. Divide by desired space + 1 balluster. 49 1/2″ ÷ 5= 9.8 rounded up to 10. 49 1/2″ ÷10= 4.95″ . Or, 4 15/16″. Now, pull your tape and mark 4 15/16″. This is the leading edge of the balluster. Continue adding this measurement and marking each leading edge.
Top rail solution #1: Use a 1x for screwing into the spindles, then screw or glue the 2x atop that. (Forgive me if I’m stating the obvious.). Top rail solution #2: Rip the 2x in half, screw the bottom half to the spindles, then glue the top half back on. Sand the sides and you’ll never notice that it was ripped and glued back together.
Thanks Ben for ALL your great tips and teachings. Just want to add a tip to your method of laying out the spindles. As shown in the article at 5:06, there was about a 1/4″ extra in last space. What I’ve done in the past in cases like that, is wrap 1 or 2 or 3, etc… layers of masking tape around the end of the spacer block to add fractions of length to the block. Do the “double check” again, and you should see a reduction in the extra space at the end. If your block doesn’t fit in the end space, either go with it, or just remove one layer of tape, or if you only had one layer, use thinner tape. Hope this helps some of you.
At 3:38 you tell the world that we in Canada don’t work in metric because we are stubborn. That Sir is a crock. You don’t work in metric because you yourself are stubborn and apparently out of touch. You call yourself “Vancouver Carpenter” and, being Canadian, I seem to recall that Vancouver is located in British Columbia which is part of Canada unless you are referring to Vancouver Washington. Canada has been metric since 1976 by Federal law. Only those who were using the Imperial system prior to 1976 such as myself (Born 1952) tend to use Imperial and most are familiar with the various conversion factors to move back and forth between the systems. As far as the U.S. is concerned, they were slated to go metric until Ronald Reagan decided it was too expensive and cancelled the program. This proved to be a bad decision and now many American companies are voluntarily making their products using metric measurement because their products are being sold in metric countries around the world that demand the use of metric. As far as your method of affixing your spindles, well, maybe you should leave that to a to a true finishing tradesman since only an amateur would use screws and filler. Anyone familiar with rails would tell you to use hidden dowels with glue or in lieu of that mortise the spindles, top rail, and bottom rail and affix with glue to get fastener free surfaces. Hell, even screws through the top rail with the screw holes plugged with wooden plugs would be superior to filler.
You need to stay with drywall. You made this A LOT harder than it needs to be 110.75-the total width of all the spindles put together or take 1.5 x the amount of spindles. Then 110.75- that amount, divided by the amount of equal spaces and DONE! Start measuring off the newel post to that dimension, draw another line 1.5, then that same space dimension, then another 1.5″ line and so on…… If it doesn’t come to an exact 1/16″ figure out what dimension it is in between the 1/16″ and mark a 1/32″ (1/2 of the 1/16″ dimension)
Doesn’t have time to take a quick measurement of a distance you already should know the measurement for since you just finished cutting the freaking banister and do one quick 3rd grade math problem. Yet has the time to get an elastic band then MEASURE a bunchbof 4 inch marks on it. Then has to have someone hold one end and someone else hold the other or fasten each end so you can mark the placements. I give you credit though. It appears you fooled a good 20 people into thinking this is a good idea.
Inside to inside measure (between Newels )plus 1 baluster width Divided by desired space (4″) and one baluster width Gives number of units (Usually round up ) Then take the original number ( inside to inside of newel, plus one baluster width) divided by number of units ( rounded up) Will give you the far layout line (Not center ) For actual space between baluster to baluster (fillet) minus one baluster width I think that right ? Lol
That’s a slick trick that doesn’t require any real math. For my money, if I was doing a deck / porch I would lay out the first one like this then transfer the marks to a story pole for the rest. That way your spacing is uniform to the eye, all across the project. Any odd spaces can be adjusted for on the ends (+/- half inch?) and you won’t notice if the rest are even.