A vault is a self-supporting arched form, typically made of stone or brick, used to cover a space with a ceiling or roof. It is a crucial method of support in architecture, as it is a self-supporting arched form. The primary components of a vault include barrel vaults, which are simple, continuous arches that extend along a straight path, and groin vaults, also known as double barrel vaults or cross vaults, formed by the intersection at right angles of two barrel vaults.
To build a groin vault, complex scaffolding from the ground up is required, and the vault must be more or less square. Corbel vaults are masonry roofs constructed from opposite walls or from a circular base, shifting courses slightly and regularly inward until they meet. These stepped roofs effectively distribute weight down to the corners of the structure.
A vault is a construction technique that has permeated the entire history of architecture, built in reinforced concrete and applied in contemporary buildings. To frame a gable end wall for a vaulted ceiling room, one post is a 4×4 and the other is two 2×4’s cut into ceiling drywall. Exterior walls receive wind pressure, and framing 101 involves framing a rake wall for a gable end.
When building a safe room wall type, it is important to leave the exterior wall as is and create a new wall to define the safe room. Vault-type doors are another option for creating a secure space.
📹 Impressively skilled bricklayers, Vault construction
Vaults and domes construction using bricks, 8 hours of work summarized in 12 minutes watch the full playlist here: goo.gl/NLRx2f …
How to tell if a wall is a load bearing vaulted ceiling?
A load-bearing wall is one that runs perpendicular to the joists at a 90-degree angle. When parallel to floor joists, it is not a load-bearing wall. The wall may be aligned under a single joist or bear on blocking adding between two adjacent joists. A partial wall with a beam running alongside it may also be a load-bearing wall. A beam is often a ceiling projection that runs directly into the partial wall, and the builder may have installed a microlam beam to span the opening and carry the load above.
What is the easiest way to identify a load-bearing wall?
The wall’s joists are oriented perpendicular, indicating a 90-degree angle of entry. Conversely, if they are oriented parallel, the angle of entry is 90 degrees.
How expensive is it to vault a ceiling?
The average cost of vaulting a ceiling is $19, 900, with a range of $4, 800 to $38, 000 depending on factors like roof modifications and the type of vaulting. Raised ceilings create open, airy rooms and offer various design options. However, installing a vaulted ceiling is a complex process with factors like home location, permits, and construction type. The less costly option is new construction, which costs between $16, 000 and $21, 000, including framing the roof and arranging the structure to accommodate the vaulted ceiling design. The installation process is complicated and can vary depending on factors like location and permits.
What are vault walls made of?
Bank vaults are custom-designed and are a crucial element in new bank building planning. The vault manufacturer collaborates with the bank to determine specifications like size, shape, and security features. Modern vaults are typically made of steel-reinforced modular concrete panels, engineered for maximum strength and crush resistance. A 3-inch thick panel of specialized concrete can be up to 10 times stronger than an 18-inch panel of standard concrete.
Modern bank vaults are made of modular concrete panels using a proprietary blend of concrete and additives for extreme strength. A 3-inch thick panel of this material can be up to 10 times stronger than an 18-inch panel of regular formula concreted.
Two public examples of vaults withstanding a nuclear blast are the Teikoku Bank in Hiroshima, whose two Mosler Safe Company vaults survived the atomic blast with all contents intact, and a vault at the Nevada National Security Site, where an above ground Mosler vault was one of many structures specifically constructed to be exposed to an atomic blast in Operation Plumb Bob – Project 30. 4: Response of Protective Vaults to Blast Loading.
What is a structural vault?
Vault is a structural member in building construction consisting of arches, usually forming a ceiling or roof. The basic barrel form, first found in ancient Egypt and the Middle East, is a continuous series of arches deep enough to cover a three-dimensional space. It must be buttressed along its length by heavy walls with limited openings. Roman architects discovered that two barrel vaults intersecting at right angles formed a groin vault, which could span rectangular areas of unlimited length. This vault required precision in stone cutting, which declined in the West after Rome’s fall. Vaulting continued and improved in the Byzantine Empire and the Islamic world.
How thick are barndominium exterior walls?
The exterior walls of barndominiums typically range in thickness from 5 to 20 inches, with variations contingent upon the specific architectural style. The interior space is 38 by 38 feet, with a living area of 40 by 40 feet and walls measuring 12 inches in thickness. It is important to consider the dimensions and positioning of furniture items, such as the location of televisions and the availability of space for seating, coffee tables, and end tables. It is recommended that the dimensions of the existing or analogous rooms be measured for the purpose of comparison.
Are exterior walls load-bearing?
The myth that all exterior walls in a home are load-bearing is not always the case. The load-bearing capacity of a house depends on the type and style of the house. Engineer Stephen Hammill, P. E., provided a sketch to illustrate this point. The sketch shows a house with floor joists and roof trusses running perpendicular to each other, rotating 90 degrees, indicating that all four exterior walls are load-bearing.
How are vaulted ceilings supported?
It is essential to provide a ridge beam, supported by posts or walls, to ensure the proper transfer of load to roof joists and prevent them from pulling away under load. It is essential that the upper portions of the opposing walls be capable of bearing the weight.
Do I need a structural engineer to vault a ceiling?
Vaulting a ceiling can significantly impact a home’s structural integrity, so it’s crucial to hire a structural engineer to ensure safety and soundness. They can check for proper placement of collar ties to prevent wall spread. Building code and permit requirements must be followed when vaulting a ceiling, as understanding and complying with these is crucial for safe and legal renovation. Common regulations typically address these aspects.
Are exterior walls bearing walls?
The myth that all exterior walls in a home are load-bearing is not always the case. The load-bearing capacity of a house depends on the type and style of the house. Engineer Stephen Hammill, P. E., provided a sketch to illustrate this point. The sketch shows a house with floor joists and roof trusses running perpendicular to each other, rotating 90 degrees, indicating that all four exterior walls are load-bearing.
How is a vault constructed?
A vault is a self-supporting arched form in architecture, typically made of stone or brick, used to cover a space with a ceiling or roof. A temporary support is needed while rings of voussoirs are constructed and placed in position. In cases where timber is easily obtained, a temporary support is provided by centering consisting of a framed truss with a semicircular or segmental head. Corded vaults, also known as false vaults, have been documented since prehistoric times, with their construction regionally built until modern times.
The real vault construction with radially joined stones was already known to the Egyptians and Assyrians and introduced into the West by the Etruscans. The Romans developed vault construction further, building barrel, cross, and dome vaults, with some outstanding examples in Rome, such as the Pantheon and the Basilica of Maxentius.
📹 VAULT Room on the CHEAP!
FYI: Forward to 12:36 to go straight to the vault footage. My buddy Tyler Jarratt with Voltaire is building a new home with a VAULT …
My uncle was third generation bricklayer, their cement composition is little bit different he told me. You can see the difference still today, there was a devastating earthquake and the houses theyr worked on had minimal damages compared the newly build ones who had huge cracks and falling ceilings etc
I also had these built on our home in Mexico by the same masons. Some of the negative comments sound like good criticism, however I have never seen a problem with these domes other than the routine maintenance of sealing them well on top so that moisture doesn’t come through and stain the interior. These roofs are fantastic.
I’ve been in construction for 36 years and I’ve never seen anything like that. That is amazing and absolutely beautiful. I’m an electrician but can do a lot of the other trades including concrete but masonry is one I found to be the hardest. This guy is a magician, I’d be picking up the same brick all day.
Amazing craftsmanship! Not only impressive but a true demonstration of true talent. Being able to cut brick with a trowel is one thing but not using a tape measure or anything other than a brick and trowel to take a 4×8 brick and cut to fit. Bravo! As a journeyman carpenter I have great respect for these guys talents! Shalom
I never saw something like this before, man you are a MASTER. If this job was done in a western country, it would have required an Architect, Engineer, Manager, Supervisor, permissions etc. etc. plus it would cost 100+ more to do what a single man do here! I don’t understand why jealous and incompetent rude people here giving bad feedback just because they don’t understand either they hate to see someone doing better than them!
I’ve laid many-a-brick, block, firebrick and stone in my time. I believe the masons that were my mentors were of the finest Old School craftsmen around these parts here in NC. This gentleman is truly a pro! One of the most accurate of cutting his brick with his trowel instead of his hammer, that I’ve ever seen. Blessed with talent AND some super sticky mud no doubt. Interesting!
There’s great intelligence and genius in all walks of life. I’ve been on construction sights, working with my hands and around those who work with their hands for over 30 years. Many of these people are just as intellectually gifted as any scientist or doctor or other university trained professional that you might happen to come across. The thing is that many “every day people” assume that those who work with their hands are of below average intelligence and awareness and they treat them as such. The mason in this article is not a technician, he’s an artist!
This is a Boveda, similar to an arch In that it is self sustaining with its own weight. This isn’t going anywhere. All these (master masons ) gonna nit pick mechanics and or mix of mortar,wouldn’t have a clue where to start building one of these. It’s beautiful work considering the Man is doing everything with his trowel. – cuts, straight,45’s and such. The outside plastering is part of the structure and sealing it up and asthetic . I’ve been wanting to be on something like this for years. Someday.
its kinda funny looking at all these comments on here of people impressed by this type of work. im from queretaro mexico same part of where they are doing this work. this guys are called “albaniles” they are underpaid alot for the job that they do. most of these guys started doing this in their teens because they dropout of school because they mostly come from low income households so they arent appreciated much . its nice to see that they are appreciated for the work that they do on the internet.
ребята ! всё просто. метод называется примораживание! это когда “мертвецки” сухой кирпич кладётся на цементный кладочный раствор с содержанием гипса 10 % + добавляется эфир целлюлозы (даёт эффект клеевого раствора – как клей плиточный) – ПОПРОБУЙТЕ – ПОЛУЧИТЬСЯ !!! ))) а по поводу “кладка на глаз” – это когда есть захотите и волком завоете… ))) или -это ничего мудрёного (день два или 3 и всё получиться ) как говорят глаза восхищаются а руки делают своё дело.
Another argument. Look at buildings that were created with science and theory vs ones built by craftsman. Which are more aesthetically pleasing? I don’t like this argument actually. I want to unit rather than fight. A great architect uses both. Intuition is always a step ahead of theory and experience. Imagination is what we need to build a great world. Look at termite mound construction. They maintain perfect a temperature using evaporative cooling principles. Did they learn that at Termite University. Actually we should be studying them.
In Finland, the work safety standards dictate you are not allowed to enter a worksite without these safety equipment and a pass. The area is fenced to protect outsiders. The houses are always built within support stands. All meaning is controlled by the state like Fascism and under the pretext of safety
I’ve been a Bricklayer for around 15 year’s. I’d like to think I can or could battle all sorts of different build styles. It can pay well as a trade but….. Il never moan about how shit it can be ever again after perusal this guy he’s just crazy talented for a Bricklayer, that muck would have to be absolutely perfect to do that particular job it’s not just laying bricks it’s art.. well a complete masterpiece really. And he’s probably getting next to nothing for it. 🤷🏼♂️🤘👉👍
I just watched a article of some students trying to build an arched roof on the ground just to do it. Two or three dozen people busting their butts. What a goat rope. Then I come here and see two men knocking it out. No support arches. Not talking about what they intend to do, just making it happen. It’s amazing how easy they make it look.
😮😮 …..me too, amazing ! My ancestry and family is construction for ages, i am in the craftmanship since childhood, but this is SuperHuman ! He must be from another planet ! This is a REAL superhero ! UN-F@€€-ing believable !!! Just on PLAiN sight, without any templates / guidance or constructive supports !!! Mindblowing !!!!! Unbelieveble ! You are beyond MASTERS, WIZARDS !!! Keep up the excellent work, guys !!
the speed is fantastic. the quality… not so much. The keystones they’re laying (The ones that go in the center of each row) Aren’t properly formed. They just roughly cut a brick to sort of fit and call it a day, The inside surface looks nice. But the outside is pitted and garbage. It’s why you see other buildings in the distance covered in a whitewash. It’s to smooth out the top and give the illusion of good quality. A proper stonemason will have measured out how much surface will be covered. How many bricks are required. And finally, A perfectly shaped keystone for that center brick. Heck, a stonemason worth their salt doesn’t even need mortar when working on arches. Because it’s built up in a manner that will support it’s own weight on the keystone, and anchor points. All that’s really needed is a brace for each row. Now, granted. this is for a house and not an archway or anything, So mortar should be used for no other reason than a way fill in the tiny seams between bricks, in order to create a barrier against the elements and such. But this one room used far too much, and required way too much to be applied so they could get that suction. Which means they had a higher water concentration in it than standard. Which means when it dries out, It’s going to crack and loosen up. These stonemasons are relying on the plastered outside to act as the barrier, so that their own lack of work doesn’t come to bite them in the ass (I give this five years before bricks start falling out.
The efflorescence could be fixed by sealing the top and bottom surfaces. Ideally seal the top let it dry and do it’s thing for a couple of years depending on climate, then seal the underneath. Lots of products available nowadays. Nice clear matt would highlight the brick colors beautifully. And for the gloss lovers a wet look coat look awesome.
Amazing, beautiful craftsmanship! You don’t find many people who are completely gifted with brick, rock and cement work. Wish there were artisans like these where I live. Conventional construction is so boring and uninspiring! Great article! Fui a ver la descripcion, con razon son buenos, son de Mexico! Extraño la arquitectura de Mexico.
En Mazatlán, Sinaloa hay dentro del fraccionamiento el cid unas casas que hizo el dueño hace más de 40 años, se llaman villas de la Alhambra, y la sala y el comedor miden más de 90 metros cuadrados, son de bóveda catalana, toda una obra de arte, desconozco quien las construyó, tienen segundo piso y las recamaras son igual, con bóveda!
I was in Construction for 35 years now retired Loved the outside initial tour Of the Costruction details its always nice to see DIYers doing things correctly even though i understand Tyler does have a builder on site its obvious he is very involved with understanding whats going on most homeowners dont have a clue on all the procedures I’m quite impressed on the overall build and the neatness of everything getting ready for a close in its great to see all the appropriate blocking as my official Trade was a Architectual Woodworking Installer for over 20 years and many builders either overlook or dont care about all those needs especially in. Stair railings and handi cap grab rails etc . When my sister and BrotherinLaw built their last home I reviewed prints and told them where to add all that i even offered to Install it for them if they bought the materials nobody then. Was physically handicapped then but with age it was needed and they always thank me for my help its basically life in general and now our Mom lives there and needs some of those grab rails for safety as i told them in the beginning for a few sheets of plywood and some extra 2×4 s its cheap insurance in the long run Similar things i see in Tylers house you dont get in trouble for over Engineering things its only when they aren’t Engineered enough and unfortunately even the Smartest Engineers and Architects dont think of everything because usually they dont build the Structures themselves A group of guys and women i worked with we all used to Conclude that a architect should be required to intern or work on a crew for a certain time frame as part of their schooling
I would want my “Safe Room/Gun Room/Storm Room” to be on the Ground Floor… so that even if the house is burning down, or a storm is tearing it apart, the room would not collapse… with me and Family inside. And after the danger has passed, we would have a safe exit pathway. Of course, THIS room may BE at ground level — since location was not revealed. But I am just expressing a consideration I would have. Now… if you wanted a REALLY Safe room, you might just put in a room built with “Ram Earth” in an exterior corner of the house, and just cover the outside walls with the same siding as the rest of the house … (smile)
‼️‼️‼️. FOR YOUR “SECURE ROOMS” ——>>. Add tons of scrap rebar inside the framed walls… run between holes slightly larger then the outside diameter of rebar allowing the rebar to spin if anyone attempts to cut with a saw . Horizontal runs and vertical runs placed in random locations with an emphasis toward areas do you think cutting will take place to permit entry. Also provide for shock and vibration detectors inside of the room wall….. Definitely run empty conduit and cable to the room from the main telecom or electrical utility area in the home. Provide for panic button, back up phone line, power for a spare cell phone, CCTV camera in the room as well as a monitor in the room to watch outside security cameras. Also, Fort Knox and liberty and I am sick and a few other manufacturers offer vault doors that look similar to the doors they use on gun safes they can be framed in and used as the primary room door and they’re not too expensive. Great articles. Thank you
Most buildings I work in that were previously government high-security buildings (Like Grumman in Bethpage NY where the build the lunar landers) have expanded metal behind the double 5/8″ drywall so someone couldn’t break into a wall with an Axe. I wonder if this would have been a more cost-effective option than all the wood. It’s fun perusal the cordless chainsaws.
I love the quality of these projects, Matts content has lots of “food for thought” kind of stuff. That being said; I understand money doesn’t mean all that much to some folks but some of these methods are so far out of reach for most of us regular folks. The quality of methods does nothing to add value to the home upon resale. What percentage of people care about having 1-1/8 subfloor? I wonder where the line is between high quality and “stupid money”. Cool safe room and the fire consideration is interesting. I think a domestic water sprinkler head and fresh air exchange would be worth some consideration. It’s not the fire that kills but the smoke fumes from all the chemicals from products like the Advanteck, spray foam and even the fire retarder. I’m a commercial GC, most of the stuff in this home are prohibited in most commercial buildings for a reason but yet we still use this stuff in places were we and our loved ones live, eat and sleep.
That flame retardant paint doesn’t look at all like it’s “keeping that heat from coming”. The wood is clearly glowing under the flame (and under the coating). It looks more like paint that starves the wood of oxygen. Might seem like a minor detail, but if someone builds a house thinking this paint will keep a room cool in the face of a huge fire and then dies of heat and fume exposure, well that would kinda suck for them.
Very impressive. His attention to detail is spot on. Now, we do things a tad different in the Midwest. (I and a couple of other builders do anyway) Because it’s pretty standard to have a basement here. But I know a good build when I see one. And that home is beautiful already! Very nice insulation detail where the AC unit will be. And man that’s Funny, I use the same horse shoe shims from barwalt! Or contractors direct. Works great for windows and tile. Lol! Crazy! And I thought I was the only one who regularly uses those for purposes other than tile spacing. I love the premium Doug fir he’s got there. And copper flashing! And though I prefer to liquid flash everything I can, nice job with the Zip flex from what I can tell. And thank you for liquid flashing the concrete to your zip sheathing! I do like the caulk tube for that detail. Any gaps at all can be addressed easily and much less mess than the sausage gun. It sould really be a standard to liquid flash that transition. IMHO. The “safe room” is a neat concept. We build a ton of them. Usually a very, very heavy “steel reinforced” (not your average rebar) concrete though for us. 8 bag mix with fiberglass as well. I really enjoy making those an extremely concealed part of the home. Anyway, great job on the build so far Ty! And thanks for taking us along for the show Matt! 👍
Thief kicks door and door doesn’t move. Thief then kicks wall and wall doesn’t move. Thief tries a crowbar that he brought with him and wall still doesn’t move, but now his hands hurt. Thief leaves because he’s making a crap ton of noise and wasting a whole lot of time. Some of these comments are from people who watch way too many movies, with fears of people breaking into the house carrying a magnetic base drill press, plasma cutter, and a carbide-tipped chainsaw they’re going to use to go through the 12 foot ceiling from below. Be way more likely to just wait in the kitchen and take mom upstairs to unlock the door at gunpoint (or bat-point, or whatever) when the family comes home from the grocery store.
My idea is multiple medium size gun safes inside a Shipping Container inside a barn or garage equipped with security cameras. The longer it takes them to get to the valuables the more likely they’ll be busted or run away empty handed. Optionally you can put a display case with non-functioning cheap firearms out in the open for them to take making them think they got something. Works with jewelry too.
For fire rating purposes, the client would have been much better served with 2 layers of 5/8″ type x drywall. You can put 1″ Armorcore panels behind the drywall and get WAY more strength than any plywood. This is an on the cheap solution – that’s not cheap or a solution. That rock wool everywhere is very expensive. It probably would have been a wash with Armorcore and drywall and then it would have also been able to take 5 rounds of 5.56 without penetration. That door probably can’t even do that.
We did a similar vault, except we used 3/4″ plywood with a layer of Hardie board between the sheathing and the studs. In the event of a saw attack the Hardie board should dull a wood cutting blade pretty quick. Closed cell foam in the wall. We use two sheaths of 1/2″ plywood with Hardie board in the middle. 6 deadbolts and a piano hinge, swing out. Covered that with a standard door with a key lock, to reduce visibility.
I didn’t see any way of ventilating the room. Are they going to have an O2 supply inside? I’d also be careful about using sheet steel construction with wood. I can be inside that room in 30-60 seconds with the proper commercially available breaching equipment. Using plate steel with an actual plate steel door with steel studs in concrete would be better but being its on the 2nd floor is impractical.
The door looks good, but I don’t reckon that safe room would meet UK specs. Here police like to see reinforced concrete walls, floor & ceiling in walk-in gun rooms (and steel door with multiple locking points). …each installation like this has to be police approved here if you want to store guns ‘loose’ in it without additionally having them in a type approved cabinet.
Matt, Hello, nice article, we looked at some model homes in CAPE CORAL FL, I SK if they would ma a safe room in my home if We bought one, she thought I ment a PANIC ROOM, I said NO, a HURRICANE ROOM, WITH COTS, ETC, BUT DOOR MUST OPEN IN,, but if in a flood zone it would be useless, she was an English woman & NEVER EVER HEARD OF SUCH A THING, told her to check . ANYHOW it was too far from family in FL., we still have not moved to Fl as yet. Cheers from NJ
Ok, neat build BUT, a couple of things I see. 1) Steel will rot eventually. How long depends a bit on the environment and the material thickness. Stainless usually works better as long as it isn’t going to be submerged. 2) The gun room is slick but I’d be inclined to put some sort of reinforcement in the wall. Steel sheet or something along those lines. With a large budget, sheets of a nickel cobalt alloy as its harder for someone to cut through with average saw blades.
2-1″ thick, rated Sheetrock on the walls is what are found in elevator shafts for fire protection. If the owner wants to protect his/her guns that is what needs to go on the walls. The rock is finished with fire rated Sheetrock tape and the mud is also fire rated. Than intumescent putty pads are installed around metal outlet boxes and lights. The supply and return air need to be fire rated and they should close automatically in a fire. Some folks also install sprinkler systems. Finally, the best place to put a fire safe is either in the basement or someplace on the first floor. In a fire, the second floor always burns the hottest.
Fire rating is well over an hour for this type wall. 2 layers 5/8 type x drywall and fiberglass insulation give you a 1 hour assembly. Adding rockwool really doesnt add extra, but the 1.125″ sheeting adds about another 25 min burn through. The floor below will burn out before the wall. I would add some thicker chicken wire or some type of multi strand netting to stop a saw through (to stay on the cheap). As for phone and escape, this is a vault room, not a safe room.
Rather than sheatrock, concrete board inside that room with all the joints done with morter would really be fire resistant and not release compounds into the air like drywall that rust guns in enclosed spaces. You can always finish that with a knockdown textured paint product that has the orangepeal aggregate mixed in as well to make it have better look. Best practice would be to build it like a shower stall roughin essentially ready for tile, with your in wall fire rated insulation and the 1 1/8″ panel on the back of the wall covered with 5/8″ rock.
Why not make sure that you are truly saved by Jesus Christ and practice this way. Remorsefully confess with your heart your sins to Jesus Christ who is God and tell Him that you right now are repenting of your sins and you want to be born again of the Spirit from above. Tell Jesus that you are remorsefully sorry for breaking His commandments and that you are begging for forgiveness from Him. Allow His blood from the cross to wash away your sins. After this is done with your heart successfully the Holy Spirit will come to live within you and He will rebuild you from the inside out. Look for signs that you are saved. Things like spreading the good news from Jesus, getting other people saved, a craving for the word of God, reading the Bible, etc… These things are known as a calling and fruit bearing. If you’re not bearing fruit then keep doing it. Sometimes it takes time to get saved. Read Matthew chapter 13 from the King James Bible. God bless!!!
Weak vault. Just give me a skilsaw and I’m right through the side of it in 30 seconds. Putting some cheap metal sheets in between will dull any blade pretty quickly, but if I was going to build a safe room, I’d add 2 inches of concrete. Lighter than the 6 inch I’d prefer, but good luck getting through it with 3/4 plywood on either side as well and at least the framing beneath can hold it since it looks like it’s on the second floor.
Soooooo, that’s a pass for me dog. Bring back inner and outer layer brick with firerated mortar with a sandwich of clay tile locked together with fire caulk and burn proof fabric sheeting to help dissipate heat between the brick layers to form a gun vault/panic room built onto the home. A Zienhor door that is fire rated for 5 hours for ingress/egress and a small halon system that is last resort….wait, just install a halon system to tje whole home and small personal breathers attached to full face total seal respirators. Problem solved.
Why didn’t he use Rock-wool throughout. I hate spray foam — if the house catches on fire the stuff is toxic on fire in,the air and be dangerous to the firemen and surrounding folks. And if not done right can be toxic to homeowners. Love pocket doors — they use to use this in all older homes like 1800s . So smart, doesn’t take up room opening and closing. I like where you use two and can close off a large opening.
What you rich folks gonna do in your “safe room”? Store your guns where you’ll die in there with your toys? You have to be outside of that room in order to protect yourselves. Have you ever heard of Siege Warfare? Basically made to make your rich clients feel better at added cost. Otherwise a great tutorial on new building techniques, Love the show.
No regard for tree protection during construction whatsoever. Construction related tree root damage can take sometimes 5 years to manifest symptoms in the canopy and by then, it’s often too late to save the trees. As a general rule- fence off 1′ of diameter for every 1′” of tree diameter. Make this a ‘no go’ zone for material storage, grade change, compaction etc. Don’t forget to water the tree since the irrigation or water is often turned off at a job site this might require some creativity. Mature trees can add 5%-10% to property values. Mature trees are great to be around! Please, think of the trees. Your trees will thank you.
@12:50 ish is the Vault Room. I think I’d rather do a Vault room using steel 2×6’s with cement boards on both sides and filled with aircrete for the walls, ceiling and floor. And I’d put a 4′ wide steel pocket door for an entrance. 6″ of door would be inside the framing on each side with a peg driven through the door from the inside to keep it from opening. Don’t need no fancy locks. And make that room so tightly integrated that if the whole house burned down the room would drop to the bottom level intact as one piece. But then again I’d rather have a safe room in a basement along with the bedrooms for tornadoes and such as well, and have a tunnel out to the root cellar in the yard which would also be built just as strong.
so if his house catches fire (hopefully not) his gun room will fall to the ground? I’m not a structural engineer by no means. I just imagine that’s how it would play out in that scenario. maybe should have put it on the first level. at the very least it would hold out til the fire department arrives hopefully.
Not a very good or reliable gun room or safe at all. Those walls, ceiling, and floor, should have metal in them, such as flattened expanded metal between layers of drywall and plywood, or metal tube frame work, even a matrix of rebar. Lots of good info online on how to construct a gun room. This one had some good tips – the fire resistant paint is awesome, for instance – but it’s not going to make the list of good gun room construction examples.
If that house burns down that safe room will not be safe. Upstairs in the interior of the house? Really??? That fire paint was looking pretty weak in that test too. Time is a big factor in regards to fire protection. That room will cook in all that spray foam and pine. Fantastic looking house though. Well insulated and thought out aside from the safe room. Let me suggest buying a safe and setting it on that slab against an exterior wall for protecting any valuables. Even bolt it down on top of a sheet of fireproof drywall to insulate the base from heat transfer from the concrete. A good safe should be well insulated anyway but the transfer of heat from hot concrete will be longer lasting in the event of a fire.
That DIY vault would probably keep burglars out (except the LockPickingLawyer), but probably wouldn’t protect the contents from the effects of a house fire. Depending on location, the owner would do well in protecting the house against wildfires, such as perimeter sprinkler systems and removal of fuels, lest he experience what the people in Paradise, California, underwent in November 2018. The article didn’t indicate whether an interior fire sprinkler system would be fitted.
Browning safes are honestly garbage. This safe room is at least as good as any of the “safes” you’d buy at a big box store or sporting goods store. Most of those are made to be sold at a price point that’s “competitive” and look like real security. Real safes have real steel in their door and body and have very tight gaps around the door to thwart prying attacks.
Some people will call me an asshole for bringing this up but with the recent mass shootings I think it’s necessary to do so. Do any of you find it auspicious if not curious that this particular house owner wants to fireproof there Gun Room. And not fire protect their child’s room or their master bedroom or their entire house. They only want to protect their guns from burning not their children not that family but there guns.
This book was a great resource for ideas, practical advice youtube.com/post/Ugkx-b91_bYU48sOwHX-XC49tRRXRxcnOmZm and pro tips I purchased the plans for the 10’x16′ colonial and used them for the basics and made my own modifications. I built my shed for storage and lawn equipment, but decided to sheath and side it in case I ever wanted to add insulation and turn it into a shop or bunkhouse. I poured over this book all winter while I planned and found it to be the all-around best shed book out there.
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Career finish and framing carpenter here… I’ve done a lot of NDA type work over my career… one of the coolest was an over the top safe room and basically entire homes exterior was sheathed with Kevlar panels… yes bullet proof glass for windows… the whole kit… safe room was on second level of home, entire floor, ceiling and walls were sheathed with multiple layers of the Kevlar…. access to safe room was a hidden hallway that had hidden access doors from the master bath and a hidden built in book case door in the main corridor of that part of the house (for the kids or guests). Once they were threw those hidden doors they could meet up in that bullet proof hallway to make their way to the safe room. If you think this all sounds ridiculous then your right… this clients “security” budget was probably more than the entire house in this article.
Now that this content is available, a thief in the neighborhood that recognizes this house will know exactly where the room is, and how to break in (possibly with a cordless reciprocating or circular saw and a hammer to cut a scuttle hole through the plywood wall sheathing). I’d be unhappy if I was the owner to spend all this money on a stealthy safe room and then have the secrets broadcasted to the world.
Does anyone else have caught when he starts burning in the painted and non painted. what I noticed the unpainted stuff he leaves that torch on there for three to four times longer than it does on the painted stuff. I’m pretty sure if he would have left the torch for the both same amount of time the painted one would have burnt up to.