Fiberglass RV siding is a common material used in RV construction, and it can become dull or old over time. To remove oxidation from fiberglass, use soap, water, and sponges to thoroughly clean the exterior. The roof should not be overlooked during this process, as it is often exposed to the highest amount of debris and UV damage. Pressure washers can cut washing time but also cause some damage.
To protect your fiberglass roof, clean it thoroughly and wax the surface with Meguiar’s 56 Boat and RV Pure Wax. Wash your RV once a month with the correct chemicals to remove any oxidation, staying away from caustic, alkaline, or ammonia-based cleaners. After the wash, apply a polish to restore the shine.
When washing your fiberglass travel trailer, use warm water and Dawn, avoiding dishwashing liquid. Look for a non-scratching formula and look for a powder-based fiberglass cleaner that includes a non-scratching formula. Use Dawn dish washing detergent diluted in warm water along with a soft bristled car wash brush mounted on a telescopic pole to clean off dirt.
A good car wash or RV soap made for fiberglass is recommended, as most inexpensive cleaners will usually be a high alkaline solution. Microfiber cloths and soft sponges allow you to wash your RV while being gentle enough not to cause damage to paint finishes, fiberglass, decals, seals, and other components.
In summary, regular washing and waxing are essential for maintaining the shine of your fiberglass RV. Using a non-scratching formula and using gentle cleaning methods like microfiber cloths and sponges can help keep your RV looking its best.
📹 Remove Oxidation and Restore Faded RV Fiberglass Meguiars One Step
The Sun has taken a toll on my Cougar’s fiberglass finish. The once glossy mirror finish turned to an ugly dull chalky white.
What is the best thing to clean fiberglass with?
Fiberglass showers are susceptible to various stains, smells, and smears due to their glass base and melted sand. To clean fiberglass, create a vinegar wash solution of 1 part vinegar to 3 parts water. If the shower is particularly grimy, prewash it with dish soap like Dawn mixed with 2 cups of warm water. Fiberglass is also sensitive to stains from makeup, hair products, medicines, bath bombs, laundry detergent, and potential damage from kids.
There are various cleaning techniques for fiberglass showers, depending on factors like laziness, dirtiness, and available cleaning products. To clean fiberglass, use glass or all-purpose cleaner like Mr. Clean Clean Freak Mist, Mr. Clean Magic Eraser Bath, white vinegar and spray bottle, microfiber rag, gentle dish soap like Dawn Dish Soap, baking soda, and a soft bristled scrub brush. Regardless of the method chosen, the shower will likely come out cleaner.
What is the best thing to wash the outside of an RV with?
Keeping your RV’s exterior clean and free from damage is crucial for its longevity. The exterior protects against leaks, drafts, and excess heat, allowing you to camp comfortably. However, commercial cleaners and tools can be too harsh and rough for RV exteriors, damaging the finish, drying out seals, and leaving scratches. To maintain the exterior, use gentle automotive or RV cleaner or soap and water.
These simple considerations can help keep your rig sparkling and looking good through many camping seasons. By following these steps, you can extend the life of your RV and enjoy comfortable camping trips for years to come.
How to restore faded fiberglass?
There are numerous products available on the market that claim to be the best solution for dull, faded gel coat. One-part cleaner/wax products, which combine wax with mild cleaner, abrasive compound, and lubricant, are effective on mildly dulled or chalked finishes. Restoration/wax compounds, on the other hand, have a more aggressive rubbing compound and may have an abrasive that breaks down when applied, producing a finer finish.
Another class of products is acrylic or similar coatings, which are thin and easily applied, leaving behind a waterproof coating that fills the gel coat surface to form a shiny layer. However, due to their thin nature, multiple coats are usually required.
Does vinegar clean fiberglass?
Baths can be a relaxing experience, but if they’re dirty, it can make the experience less enjoyable. If not cleaned regularly, the tub can build up with soap scum, bacteria, and mildew, making it look dingy. Most bathtub materials can be cleaned using household ingredients like baking soda, vinegar, and water. To prevent this, deep clean your bathtub and shower at least bi-weekly. In between deep cleans, wipe down your bathtub once a week, especially if you use it daily.
Is vinegar safe to clean fiberglass?
A gentle liquid soap can disinfect fiberglass and polycarbonate against COVID-19 virus, but it is essential to rinse thoroughly to remove residual soap buildup. Vinegar is a natural, inexpensive disinfectant for fiberglass, while ammonia is a viable option for cleaning polycarbonate. Bleach should be avoided as it can attack the resin structure of the material. Disinfectants containing hydrogen peroxide or isopropyl alcohol are compatible for polycarbonates.
Be cautious with abrasive materials, such as stiff brushes and steel wool, as they can scratch surfaces. Always use cleaning materials free from dirt before use on the enclosures. Avoid using bare hands or a dry cloth when cleaning polycarbonate, as it can rub dirt and contaminants into the surface material.
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation should only be used for approved purposes and following UV-safety operating safeguards. While UV sanitation won’t have a destructive near-term impact on non-metallic enclosures, it poses potential physical and health hazards to those applying UV radiation.
Should you wax or polish a fiberglass RV?
RV-grade wax and polish are essential for maintaining the exterior gel coat of your RV, which is a protective layer that protects the vehicle from various elements such as sun exposure, inclement weather, bugs, grime, dirt, and debris. These waxes and polishes are designed to work with the fiberglass gel coat, ensuring its longevity and preserving its appearance.
There are two main differences between RV waxes and polishes: RV-grade waxes and polishes work with the fiberglass gel coat, while polishes fill microscopic pores in the surface. Waxes are used after this step for a long-lasting shine. After a thorough cleaning of your RV’s exterior, it is recommended to apply a polish to the gel coat. RVbyLIFE’s PolyShine® Premium Fiberglass and Composite Polish is a top-rated fiberglass cleaner that not only shines and protects the gel coat but also works well on chrome and stainless steel hardware and fittings. This product can be applied by hand or with a buffing machine.
What does oxidation on fiberglass look like?
Oxidation is the chalky, porous appearance of unprotected or neglected gelcoat or paint, primarily caused by UV ray damage. It can cause major issues for vessel protection, especially when improper washing is not done to keep marine life out of cracks and surfaces. Incorrect product choices can strip waxes and protectants from surfaces, making them susceptible to UV rays. Gel coats and paints oxidation happens faster due to their porous nature, making it crucial to protect them to maximize their life span and appearance. Selective cleaning, protective products, and equipment are necessary to maintain their luster.
How to clean the outside of a fiberglass RV?
To clean moderately oxidized fiberglass in an RV, use elbow grease and a polishing compound. Rub the oxidized layer with the compound or remover, then let it dry. Peel off the clean layer and apply wax to protect the surface. As the RV ages, it can suffer from damage and dullness, but the wet sanding process can restore its luster and sheen. Sanding paper with a range of 600 to 2, 000 grits, soaked for 24 hours, is crucial for this process.
After the wet sanding, high-grade super-duty polishing compounds can be used to achieve the desired finish. Some products may require 3 to 5 applications. If you feel uncomfortable doing this at home, professional help is available at a body shop to ensure your RV’s restoration is in capable hands.
What should I wash the outside of my RV with?
Keeping your RV’s exterior clean and free from damage is crucial for its longevity. The exterior protects against leaks, drafts, and excess heat, allowing you to camp comfortably. However, commercial cleaners and tools can be too harsh and rough for RV exteriors, damaging the finish, drying out seals, and leaving scratches. To maintain the exterior, use gentle automotive or RV cleaner or soap and water.
These simple considerations can help keep your rig sparkling and looking good through many camping seasons. By following these steps, you can extend the life of your RV and enjoy comfortable camping trips for years to come.
How do you make fiberglass shine like new?
There are numerous products available on the market that claim to be the best solution for dull, faded gel coat. One-part cleaner/wax products, which combine wax with mild cleaner, abrasive compound, and lubricant, are effective on mildly dulled or chalked finishes. Restoration/wax compounds, on the other hand, have a more aggressive rubbing compound and may have an abrasive that breaks down when applied, producing a finer finish.
Another class of products is acrylic or similar coatings, which are thin and easily applied, leaving behind a waterproof coating that fills the gel coat surface to form a shiny layer. However, due to their thin nature, multiple coats are usually required.
📹 How to remove fiberglass oxidation from your RV exterior
Your RV’s fiberglass exterior can quickly lose its luster, especially if your RV is often parked outdoors in the bright sun.
Hey bud it’s looking great! Couple of tips from a rv detailing shop owner. 1. Be smooth and a little slower with your passes. Make a pass then move down a little and make the next pass directly below it. Makes sure you don’t miss any spots and you don’t have to go over it 5 times. Second. MASKING TAPE is amazing. Mask off all those edges and trims you don’t want your product on. Sometimes back to black only works for a few days and your lines come back on the trim. Masking tape will guarantee they don’t get on it at all
Nice article, Before you start buffing again I recommend stopping by a auto paint supply store and getting a yellow wool pad with a proper back up pad so it stays firmly attached. The yellow wool will be aggressive enough to remove oxidation but soft enough to polish to a brilliant shine once you bump the buffer speed up. medium to medium high speed should be more than sufficient to do what you are trying to do. 3M makes a good quality yellow wool. By the way for a do it yourself job I think you did excellent.
Helpful and informative. Thanks. I have a better idea of what my project needs. I’m restoring a not vintage but old CocaCola chest cooler . The kind on legs with casters. It’s faded to a dusty bubble gum pink. I’ve been rubbing it with the turtle wax polish that the hardware store recommended and my arm wants to falls off. Now I have a better idea of how to proceed. Thank you
great article and info. Some tips for your consideration, use painters tape to cover areas you don’t want discolored with polish/compound. I would also say after spreading the product at a lower speed, raise the speed of the machine and use slower overlapping passes to work in the polish until break down. Lastly consider using a sprayer bottle with water over the polish/compound to help spread it and prevent gumming up. The polish work in time is a little bit longer with the spray of water.
You’ll get better results and it won’t take so much time if you clean the pad regularly while buffing. Just get a stiff piece of plastic or metal. Turn the buffer so the of is facing up. Turn the buffer on and then hold the plastic/metal and run it over the pad. It cleans out the dried out polish and you don’t have to wash it till you are all done. Other than that. Great article. Looks great! I do the same thing with my boats’ gel coat.
I don’t think anyone touched on this. Rotary polishers create speed swirl marks or “holograms” in the finish. For near perfect results you will also need to polish the finish again with a polish not a compound. You will need a DA Dual Action Polisher or Random orbital polisher to get rid of those speed swirl marks you will create with a rotary polisher. Either way there is no simple easy way to do this process. It takes quality time to get quality results. Just know ahead of time this will not be an easy one day only task. Just work on one section at a time. Don’t overwhelm yourself.
Great article and info bud 👍🏼 I mixed a cup of baking soda, 2 cups of vinegar, and 4 cups of ammonia and filled a 5 gallon pail with hot water. I filled a dollar store squirt bottle with the mixture from the pail to spray on and let it sit for a couple minutes. Then I just took a brush and started scrubbing. I used a sponge with a scrubby pad on one side (scotchbrite) for around the edges and windows. This really brightened my decals and removed the grime buildup as well as tree sap etc. my next step will be to try what you’ve suggested. It’s great to find other guys who share their success! Thanks again 👌🏼
Not sure with a wool pad, but when I do my cars I lightly wet the pad also to prevent gumming.. also I would use a ton less compound and smaller work areas,, that said have not done my travel trailer yet and after an hour Ill probably be like “screw it” and doing 12 x 12 foot areas hahaha.. Thank you for posting.. now I need spring to get here.. ug
Hi boss. 1st, love the effort and journey. Now that you have had some introduction into the world of gelcoat, I invite you to consider the following article as another option. The reason your B&D buffer had it’s best results along your DMZ between “before” and “after” is because you probably hit that line, each and every time you were near it to leave a nice clean line, it did. You allowed the compound to work there longer than anywhere else in your working area. I’ve done this for almost 20 years. If you didn’t wash the RV well after compounding, you’ll see fade soon, especially if you trusted the bottle of #67 that claims to polish & PROTECT, it won’t protect any more than spraying your RV with cooking oil so some but nothing real. Dont believe me? Call them like I did. You need more but I appreciate what you went through to get here. Lee
Best way to remove oxidation is to dry sand with 1000 grit or 1200 grit to remove most of the oxidation. It will fall off like powder and you will start to see the Shine. Then do it just how you explained!! But you did great And I been detailing RVs for 10 years! The dry sand will stop any gum up because you remove the oxidation mostly which is like powder. Slow process no doubt lol
Use the Dewalt buffer it gets the job done. You want the blue compound on 5he stiffest wool pad you can find and be patient. Work SMALL AREAS. Mask off decals! Then polish with foam then apply cleaner wax by hand. That harbor freight buffer is a joke step up to the Dewalt the extra torque will make huge difference. You don’t want to be cheap with rvs
Buy some one restore from eco chem and have them tell you the ratio to use for the fiberglass. Mix it in a pump up sprayer and spray on and let dwell. Then simply rinse with a garden hose and it will wash the oxidation away with no buffing. I own an exterior cleaning company and that’s what we use for removing oxidation on houses. Never done fiberglass which is why I recommend eco chem telling you what ratio to use.
Hi I have an aluminum camper with the compounds you’re describing work on the aluminum product? And most of all and most important which I should have said first I guess, is I have a 2006 VW Volkswagen that has that old paint look on the Hub Cap cover and on some on the front of the car it’s a navy blue and I try to compound and I tried of course I’m so I’m older so I’m not that strong and then I try to small buffer tool and I tried a buffing compound do you think that these compounds and a stronger tool might get off the paint finish I can’t even talk this is so foreign to me do you think these products might help with the Volkswagen finish? If there’s typos I’m doing voice to text because I have hand problems but I would get a guy to help me do this on my car one of my friends is real strong a guy okay God forgive me if this is just a hot mess thank you Debbie
I can’t wait to do mine! Side note; I’ve been using 303 aerospace UV protectant to stave off the daily effects of the sun, and it has been a great product for this purpose. You might consider looking into this product to enhance and protect your hard work. I really appreciate the article, and as I said I will be trying your method with the common sense suggestion comments that apply. Aloha, and happy camping.
My 5th wheel has the same “one-sided” fade issue. The hardware guy at Home Depot suggested an angle grinder with a flap disc abrasive pad to quickly cut through the oxidation. I told him about your method, and he said time is money, don’t screw around. I don’t want to do more work than I have to- what do you think is the better way?
So glad i watched this. I just noticed oxidation or fading on my 2018. Didn’t seem as noticeable when i bought it in January. But definitely showed up after cleaning my rubber roof. I had already purchased a harbor freight 6″ palm polisher to apply ceremic wax to the camper. So i hope to use it on the front cap with the meguiar’s one step compund. If i listened correctly, you recommend using a wool applicator?
I gave it a try – bought a new buffer used the wool pads and the one step – I must now accept the fact that I have a have a learning disability as my camper has streaks everywhere – no matter how much I buff, I just can’t look at it at sideways, quite nasty – At least my class A is tall enough when I jump off it I can do a lot of damage… so much so I will be incapable of trying this again…
McGuires makes a 3 step. Depending on how much oxidation you may have to do it a few times. Key is to constantly clean off wool pad or try McGuires cutting pad it’s a maroon color foam pad which cuts through oxidation but cleaning pad is key to removing it better I do detailing on rv gel coats Once ya get it nice buy a cover to prevent and keep sun from doing it again wash regularly. It’s a lotta work but the reward is worth it
I have had a similar journey. My winnebago is white and I pulled decals off leaving sticker shadows and a pretty significant difference in white. I started by hand and have ended up with a dewalt professional polisher and started with wet sanding. I am however using this one step polish after a heavy compound. It is pretty incredible stuff. It seems to be the best single step stuff. Starting slow RPM keeps the grit heavy and speeding up really breaks it down and polishes. I am topping with Maguires marine wax.
Thx for the vid..just a note..once you get the shine back make sure you use a synthetic sealer to seal the surface to avoid the chalky effect coming back….use a sealer such as turtle wax “seal and shine”..easy to apply and will give you at least 6 months of UV protection as well as a nice bead to help keep surface clean…avoid using organic waxes as they diserpate on first hot day or wash off after a few weeks
Nice job and NICE RV. So many people bust Harbor Freight. I have 3 Porter Cable NA/DA sander/polisher and a 11 inch Sears Buffer becuase there were now HF’s in those days. Your keys are the right compound and pads and “Keep Moving” Thanks for posting, it saves many hours of experimenting. I have used McQuire products since 1986. My 2006 Ford Crouwn vice still looks new. Look into Mothers Clay bar kits. May be an idea for you.
Welcome to the fun of polishing. There is a brush and a wheel that are used to clean the pad. Try to do it after each section or two and you can do the whole job in a day. It also polishes more consistently with a clean pad. Using a rotary, it is possible to burn through the gel coat, so it is important to keep the machine moving and use a low speed setting. There are a number of sealants available that you spray on a wet surface and rinse off immediately. They will help a lot with preventing future oxidation so long as they are reapplied as needed
Jon, I have an 2018 Outback 330 RL travel trailer. I’ve used the Mequires RV wax but i don’t know what to use on the trim around the slides. It’s the 3′ wide flat plastic molding around the slides. It seems like it is sold black plastic and it is faded and uneven in color. I’m not sure what it is made of and i don’t know how to care for it. Any recommendations? Thanks.
Great article, I watched several times. Just got the One Step No. 67 in the mail today. I am still up in the air about the wool pad. Looking at the one that you mentioned I noticed a lot of complaints about hair and wool fibers coming off of the pad. Did you noticed this or have the same problem If so is there anything that will solve the issue. Again thank you for taking the time to do this article, the best article out there on oxidation removal. Cheers
Thanks for your informative article Jason. I am inspired! I used to polish cars in the olden days so this is going to be a fun project! Picked up my HFT polisher today and about to order the polish and pads. I have one question for you regarding the 7″ wool pads, have you been able to buy those without the backing pad? Since the HFT buffer already has a backing pad, I thought I would save some money. Thanks again Jason!
Great article! Thank you. You found how aggressive you have to be with fiberglass, gelcoats etc. to cut through heavy oxidation. One suggestion…clean out your pads after every section. Or, have a BUNCH of clean pads and switch out to a fresh pad often. Pads load up quickly with dead paint and compound product which lessens the effectiveness. I’d have maybe 20 pads to do an RV or 5-7 pads with frequent cleanups. Excellent results you got, my friend. Be proud, very proud. One su
If you need to remove oxidation it means you have not used a decent wax/protectant. If needed I would use a very mild abrasive (Bar Keepers Friend or Bon Ami) and a plastic kitchen scrubber. Work gently and NEVER use power equipment. Afterwards use several coats of ZEP. It will last for years and years. RV or car waxes only last a few months at best and oxidation and ongoing damage will continue. My original ZEP has lasted 7 years with only a light touchup coat every year or so.