The text provides guidance on installing an air barrier behind fireplaces installed on exterior walls. It emphasizes the importance of insulation without misalignments, compressions, gaps, or voids in all exterior wall cavities behind fireplaces. A fire-proof rigid air barrier or other supporting material should be used to create a continuous thermal barrier and prevent a fire hazard. Chimneys located entirely outside the exterior walls of a building, including those that pass through the soffit or cornice, should be electrically powered and located away from an external wall.
The 3-2-10 Rule states that the chimney opening above the roof of a sticks and bricks house should be 3 feet above the roof line or 2 feet above any part of the building within. The minimum wall thickness of a lined chimney to be used as a structural component is 10 inches (250 mm) consisting of:
To insulate and air seal the wall behind your fireplace, use rigid foam exterior sheathing taped at the seams and insulated the exterior wall enclosing the fireplace and chimney to the top of the second floor ceiling. If the chimney is located along the roof edge, the chimney structure is supported by both roof framing members and a load-bearing wall on the exterior of the building, making a prescriptive retrofit more difficult.
Chimneys built on the exterior of a building need lateral support every twelve feet of height as they pass up the building wall. The majority of chimneys on outside gable walls of houses can be freestanding and don’t need to be supported, especially chimneys with multiple flues. Single-flue chimneys, however, require lateral support every twelve feet of height as they pass up the building wall.
The text also discusses the solution to run “B” vent up through the existing chimney using the chimney as a chase, which is allowed by the code and the Handbook. Chimney wall thickness should be a nominal 4 inch (100 mm) unless no flue liner is used, in which case a nominal 8 inch (200 mm) is required.
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What is the clearance for an exterior chimney?
Masonry chimneys in the interior or exterior of a building must have a minimum air space clearance of 2 inches (51 mm). Chimneys outside the exterior walls, including those that pass through the soffit or cornice, must have a minimum air space clearance of 1 inch (25. 4 mm). The air space should not be filled except for fire blocking.
Exceptions to this rule include chimneys equipped with a chimney lining system listed and labeled for use in chimneys in contact with combustibles in accordance with UL 1777 and installed in accordance with the manufacturers’ installation instructions. When masonry chimneys are constructed as part of masonry or concrete walls, combustible materials must not be in contact with the masonry or concrete wall less than 12 inches (306 mm) from the inside surface of the nearest flue lining.
Exposed combustible trim and the edges of sheathing materials, such as wood siding and flooring, may be allowed to abut the masonry chimney side walls, provided they are at least 12 inches (306 mm) from the inside surface of the nearest flue lining. Combustible material and trim must not overlap the corners of the chimney by more than 1 inch (25. 4 mm).
The current code on clearance to combustible materials from masonry chimneys has three exceptions. Exception 2 permits masonry chimneys part of masonry walls to be in contact with combustibles if the combustible is at least 12″ from an interior flue lining. Exception 3 addresses other specific situations where combustible trim, flooring, and siding may touch the masonry.
Can framing touch a chimney?
The illustration illustrates a 2-inch clearance between the masonry and framing, in accordance with the architectural specifications and regulatory codes.
How do you seal the gap between a chimney and a wall?
To bridge a gap in a fire block, use metal flashing and a non-combustible caulk when it contacts the masonry. For a bridge from the chimney to a drywall surface, patch in with cement board and caulk the cement board to the chimney with fireproof sealant. Finish the joint with standard joint compound or skim-coat plaster.
Look for a non-combustible fireblock sealant approved for contact with chimneys, such as 3M Fireblock Sealant FB136. If in doubt, consult a local building inspector.
Seal the vertical chase around the chimney, a 2 inch gap, where it enters the attic to reduce air and moisture leakage. Use metal flashing and fireproof sealant, with the flashing horizontal between the ceiling joists and the chimney.
Should a chimney be attached to the house?
A masonry chimney, despite being attached to your home, does not rely on your home for support. It rests on a small slab of concrete called a chimney pad or footing. Some soils provide solid support for homes. Chimney separation and leaning are early signs of foundation problems, often poured simultaneously. If the chimney separates from the home’s exterior, foundation cracks or failure may follow. Acting immediately is crucial to prevent water damage, bugs, structural damage, and cracked chimney liners. Gaps, regardless of size, indicate underlying structural problems.
What is the clearance for framing a chimney?
The text outlines the requirements for framed wood beams, joists, and studs to be away from chimneys, with headers, beams, joists, and studs at least two inches from the outside face of a chimney or from masonry enclosing a flue. Trimmers should be at least five inches from the inside face of the concrete or masonry chimney wall. Finished flooring should have at least one-half inch clearance from chimney walls.
A clearance of at least four inches should be provided between the exterior surfaces of masonry or concrete chimneys for commercial and industrial type incinerators and combustible material, and at least two inches between the exterior surfaces of interior masonry or concrete chimneys for all wood burning appliances.
How much clearance is needed for a chimney cap?
A properly sized chimney cap should not interfere with draft, which controls smoke flow. The cap’s lid should be at least 5″ above the flue tiles, with more clearance than 5″. A ¾” mesh cap is recommended, but smaller mesh may block the chimney in winter. Chimney caps can blow off in strong wind conditions, so residents in areas with strong winds should inquire about additional steps to ensure their cap stays secure.
What is the clearance for a chimney?
Masonry fireplace clearances vary depending on the projecting height of the brick face. 6″ of clearance from combustibles is required on either side of the opening and above, while 12″ is required above if the facing projects more than 1 1/2″. Combustible material should not be placed on or near the face of a fireplace within 150mm of the opening, except for materials that project more than 38mm out from the fireplace face above the opening.
A minimum of 100mm clearance is required between the back and sides of a fireplace and combustible framing, with a 50mm clearance permitted in exterior walls. A minimum of 50mm clearance is required between the back and sides of the smoke chamber of a fireplace and combustible framing, with a 25mm clearance permitted in exterior walls.
What is the 10 2 rule for chimneys?
The 3-2-10 rule is a basic rule for chimney construction, requiring a chimney to project at least 3 feet above the roof on its shortest side and 2 feet above any roof structure within a 10 foot radius. This ensures that other structures on the roof do not interfere with the exhaustion of combustion gases. However, following this rule does not guarantee adequate drafting, and other factors play a role.
Does a chimney need to be on an exterior wall?
The concept of installing an exterior chimney to reduce the risk of chimney fires is flawed due to the production of more creosote and the fact that it was not designed with the structure in mind. It is also not feasible to install the chimney indoors due to the design or construction of the structure. Despite this, it was easier to construct an exterior chimney than an interior one.
In the long term, an interior chimney will perform better and a chimney without a 90 degree elbow will perform better. In a northern climate, factors such as the thermal mass of a masonry chimney, the need for a foundation, and the cost of constructing a masonry chimney can affect its performance. Class A chimney systems, which are prefabricated and meet UL safety standards, are easier to construct and save time and money. Therefore, it is essential to consider the long-term performance of a chimney when considering its installation.
How far should a chimney be from the wall?
Stovepipe and chimney connectors must be safe distances from combustible walls and ceilings, with the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) recommending an 18″ clearance for single wall stove pipes. Clearance refers to the safe distance between a heat-producing appliance, chimney, chimney liner, vent pipe, vent connector, or other hot surfaces, and combustible materials. Allowable clearances are determined after thoroughly testing stoves and components, recording temperatures, and establishing safe clearances.
These clearances are crucial when choosing and installing heating appliances, and should be checked with stove manufacturer’s instructions, local or county municipalities, or the International Residential Code (IRC) for clarification. The NFPA also recommends checking with local or county municipalities for specific stove manufacturer instructions or references.
How to fill a gap between chimney and house DIY?
Caulk is an appropriate material for the purpose of sealing gaps between a chimney and a house. Additionally, foam weather stripping may be a viable option for consideration.
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Very cool. We have a lot of snow and usually fine when I light the fireplace but today water is showing at the bottom, inside. The fire 🔥 is still cracking and roaring. It’s been and epic year for ice dams and icicles!!! I have roof shoveled but needs to be done again. The sun is shines today… anyway after winter ❄️ I’ll check out all these areas. Cool old house.
I bought a 12x8x24 clay flue liner that I want to install for a pizza oven that I am building out of perlite/ Portland cement. The flue is heavy. I was thinking of putting the flue inside the hole I made and securing it with refractory mortar mix. Do you think that once it dries, it’ll hold? Any advice would help!