Pressure-treated lumber plates are required for interior partitions in crawlspace and basement houses, but they are necessary over slabs. Code requires pressure-treated lumber wherever framing is in contact with foundation concrete. This is to deter termites and ensure smooth construction.
For interior block walls with living space on both sides, regular wood is generally sufficient. However, if the wood is exposed to moisture, pressure-treated lumber may be necessary. Regular 2×4 wood can be used, and a masonry drill bit can be used to bore into the cinder block. Pressure-treated wood is required anywhere it touches concrete or block on exterior walls, including furring.
Plain lumber should be used in situations where there’s direct contact between the wood and anything that could supply moisture, such as posts in contact or buried underground. This includes any lumber touching concrete or masonry since it’s porous and wicks water like a sponge. Tapcon screws are less problematic when attaching to blocks, and there’s no risk of termites, rot, or fungus.
In general, pressure-treated lumber is required for any wood that comes in contact with masonary/concrete, but it is important to note that most treated lumber is still wet from the treating process. This issue often arises with slab-on-grade construction, but if you have a good capillary break, vapor retarder, and insulation, you don’t need to use pressure-treated lumber plates.
For sills or sleepers on a concrete or masonry slab, naturally durable (Redwood, cedar), or preservative-treated wood (AWPA U1 and M4) should be used. This will help prevent termites, rot, and fungus from growing in the wood over time.
📹 How to attach wood to cement IN SECONDS! How To attach a 2×4 to cinder blocks fast and easy!
One of my last videos showed you how to attach a wood 2×4 to concrete in seconds, and in today’s video, I will show you how to …
Should I seal my cinder block wall?
Concrete blocks are more permeable to water and water vapor than poured concrete, making them particularly vulnerable to water intrusion. The larger pores of concrete blocks make them semi-permeable, with a permeability of 3. 2 perms per inch of thickness, compared to 0. 4 to 0. 3 perms in poured concrete walls. Moisture intrudes into a block, making the pores even larger, reinforcing the damage cycle. Concrete blocks also have more joints and areas to seal than poured concrete foundations or walls, with mortar joints on all sides.
Over time, these joint areas develop hairline cracks, and the mortar is less durable than concrete, causing leaks. To protect concrete block walls and cinder block water barriers, it is essential to use the best block wall waterproofing products.
How do you waterproof interior cinder block walls?
Concrete blocks are commonly used for foundations and outbuildings due to their uniform size, ease of stacking, and hardness. However, they are more permeable to water and water vapor than poured concrete, making them particularly vulnerable. To protect them from water intrusion, it is essential to use the best block wall waterproofing products. Concrete blocks and cinder blocks are particularly vulnerable due to their larger pores, making them semi-permeable.
The permeability of concrete is 3. 2 perms per inch of thickness, while an 8- to 10-inch-thick poured concrete wall is about 0. 4 to 0. 3 perms. Once moisture intrudes into a block, it makes the pores even larger, reinforcing the cycle of damage to the structure. To waterproof concrete blocks, apply a coating directly on the bare wall, use a breathable/permeable barrier, use a weather-resistant elastomeric layer, repair cracks and fill voids first, and install an air and moisture barrier.
Should you seal cinder block walls?
Concrete blocks are a popular choice for foundation or above-grade walls due to their greater permeability and mortar joints. To protect them, they must be treated and sealed using waterproofing products that can be hand-rolled, sprayed on, or applied to primed walls with a liquid adhesive. Polyguard can provide project advice or order product samples for those needing help in sealing concrete block foundations or walls.
What can I use to cover interior cinder block walls?
Concrete block walls are often used in construction, but their appearance can diminish curb appeal and resale value. Covering them can improve outdoor space appeal and prevent cracking, rot, mold, and structural failures due to moisture infiltration. Permeable concrete absorbs water, expanding pores, and damages the concrete. Oil settlement and hydrostatic pressure can lead to hairline cracks and leaks.
To protect the concrete block wall, contractors can use decorative stucco, vinyl siding, artificial stone panels, natural stone, and natural green coverings. Polyguard recommends using a quality sealant like Airlok Flex® VP to maximize moisture resistance.
Where not to use pressure-treated wood?
Pressure-treated wood should not be used for food containers or cutting boards, and even playsets should be protected with a sealant. Workers should wear gloves, protective clothing, respirators, and goggles when working with pressure-treated wood. Wash clothes exposed to treated lumber separately and avoid burning it. Applying an oil-based primer and protective sealant can limit pesticide exposure from skin contact, dust, or rain, using sealants labeled as safe for pressure-treated lumber.
How do you insulate interior cinder block walls?
The insulation of concrete block walls can be achieved through the use of spray or injection foam, which creates an air seal and thereby enhances the comfort and energy efficiency of the enclosed space. The two methods of installation differ in their respective approaches. The initial method entails the injection of insulation foam into the cores of concrete blocks, representing the most efficacious approach to insulation.
Why not use pressure-treated wood indoors?
Pressure treated wood is a popular and cost-effective option for outdoor structures, but it is not suitable for indoor use due to its toxic chemicals and potential fire hazards. Exposure to water and air can also pose health risks. The wood is also susceptible to wear and surface damage. To stain pressure treated wood, it is recommended to wait until it has completely dried and stabilized, which can take several weeks to months.
Painting pressure treated wood is possible, but it is advised to wait at least a couple of months after the pressure treatment process to allow the wood to dry out, as excess moisture can cause issues with the adhesion and drying time of the paint.
Should I insulate cinder block walls?
Home comfort is compromised by inefficient airflow in concrete block walls, leading to high energy bills. To combat this, it is recommended to insulate these walls. There are various methods to do this, and the choice is yours. RetroFoam of Michigan, a company that has been insulating concrete blocks for over 17 years, understands the best way to do this. They continue to educate homeowners about the benefits of block wall insulation.
Do I need pressure-treated wood for interior walls?
Treatmented wood is typically suitable for outdoor use due to its manufacturing process, which protects it from weather and pests. It can last up to 40 years with proper care, while untreated wood can last forever if properly maintained. However, untreated wood can survive outdoors, but it requires regular maintenance like sealing or painting to maintain its integrity and prevent damage from pests or decay. Therefore, it’s essential to choose the right wood for your specific needs.
Do cinder block walls need to be filled?
Hollow blocks in precast retaining walls can cause cracks and require replacement due to the accumulation of rainwater, snow, and ice. To prevent this, fill the hollow blocks with gravel or other stones. This prevents rainwater and snow from accumulating inside the blocks and accumulating on the ground. Avoid using soil and sand as filling materials, as they can absorb moisture and expand, causing issues. Instead, use rock, stones, or gravel. This will ensure efficient drainage and prevent the need for replacement sections of the retaining wall.
How do you finish interior cinder block walls?
Concrete block interior walls can be finished using three main methods: painting, pargeting, and wood paneling/drywall. However, these methods can be improved using different Semco applications to create a faster, more efficient, more waterproof, and more convenient method. Painting is the simplest method, ideal for those who prefer a colorful coat on the concrete without worrying about exposed concrete or visible joints. Priming is the only slightly complex step, and using a water-based latex primer and finishing paint is recommended.
Once primed, the wall can be treated like a blank canvas, providing a more visually appealing and functional finish. By incorporating different Semco applications, concrete block interior walls can be treated as a blank canvas, enhancing their overall aesthetic appeal.
📹 Can you use untreated lumber for sills on concrete?
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I would like to see how the 1st round looked if it wasn’t shot into the center rib of the block. There wasn’t any reinforcement behind the 2nd one, so of course it blew some concrete out of the back side. I have used many of those to hold different materials to block, sometimes even using a washer with the nail to prevent the items being nailed from pulling over the nail head.
I’ve used them quite a bit including putting counter flashing on an old chimney. I did a job outside Sacramento (H.P. building) where they had a young kid that weighed in around a buck twenty using the gun with 44 blanks in it shooting red iron (with holes already punched in it) into 12″ of concrete. It was fun to watch! That kid would fire it off and come a foot off the ground every time!
Well, the green one you put in the center, where there is a full section of cinder block, then shot the yellow throught the side of the cinder block where it can create a blow shot. Don’t understand why this is a thing. Either one would work perfectly in the center of the block… Anyway, thanks for the demonstration.
When I was 14 I helped build bedrooms in our basement. We didn’t have a ramset and Tapcons didn’t exist. We used a broad head hammer with a long handle and a waffle profile on the head and straight smashed nails through the wall frames directly into the concrete foundation. I was a typical skinny 14yo boy and I didn’t have an issue do it. This Ramset is cool and so are Tapcons but the brute force of a big hammer works too LOL
This is my go to when framing basements, you’re right though sometimes it doesn’t work. You hit a soft spot it blows right through or a crumbly spot where it doesn’t hold as well. Easy fix, move it 6″ in either direction and repeat, it is why I prefer the .27 with the stripper clip. Important tip, along with eye also wear ear protection! In an enclosed basement these things are extremely loud.
Probably nobody else said this, but personally, the attempt at humor got annoying. You don’t need it. Just talk like a normal person. I watch hundreds of DIY articles and they don’t talk funny and I have been subscribers of some of them for years. I found the info interesting and useful. Just be yourself. If this is you, then sorry for offending you.
RED, ALWAYS RED. Cuz who doesn’t like all that P O W E R when using a ramset. Just know this….know flying after using ramset b/c will be positive if tsa chooses you as lucky winner if the wonderful search, chemical test, etc….inspection. And then ya gotta explain & hopefully not miss a flight. How do I know, well; as I NEVER WIN anything, it seems tsa feels sorry for me b/c every darn time I fly, IM THE LUCKY WINNER OF the TSA’s random passenger search (yes, strip search; no, not fun), etc…. 😩
You can’t attach wood to a powder, like cement. I think you mean ‘concrete’, not ‘cement’. Cement is a dry powder. Those aren’t cinder blocks, they are concrete masonry units, or CMU’s. Cinder blocks are pretty hard to find. I don’t think they’ve been made en masses in the past few decades. You can still find them in old buildings though.
I know this was posted awhile ago, but I have a question. As a fellow Ohioan, I’m wanting to hang a flagpole off the house. The material on the house is an uneven stone veneer. So I’m thinking of taking a wood block to attach to the stone so that the surface is smoother. and flatter. Then I can anchor the pole to the wood. Q: what kind of wood and how thick? Will this idea work? I don’t have wood or brick to accomplish this task, so I have to mount the wood block first. Thank you!
Do you load one nail at a time? Surely I’ve missed something, this would take a lot of time. Want to attach 2 x 6’s to the perimeter of an 18 x 20 addition built up to add a room on back of house cinder block all around. Right now this is a lot of wasted space. Would put a wood floor down to use for storage, “thinking this is a good idea?” It would have support obviously..
HELLO,, thanks for teaching me crucial information. I am about to put together several 2×4 to create my door front. The 2×4 height is eight feet high. No room for square frame. I may create two unequal doors in my attempt to balance the weight against one side because the frame will stand alone without top horizontal support. Two things. Hurricane strong winds. And stand alone frame. I am hoping your technique of attaching two by four to cinder block will work. I am doing some research to make sure that the side wood (stand alone – frame for the door: row of 2 x 4) attached to cinder block would be strong enough to withstand hurricane winds. Suggestions welcomed. I am woman. 😢
So I really enjoyed your article. I’m throwing you. Crazy curveball question here…,I live in South Florida and I have a cane toad problem. I have wood fencing, they can crawl and hide between and I have dogs thy would die if they licked one. We are obliged to kill these things as they are invasive and lay 20,000 eggs per year. That being said, what would you use to barrier proof about 450 ft of wooden fence from floor to a loud 2 ft up? These things are bigger than a double whopper but can squeeze and morph like a pancake….they can only jump about 2 feet high. I’ve got one I can’t catch between my wooden fence post now. I’d like to create a cost effective yet toad proof barrier to protect my dogs and regain my sanity. What would you do? Please help!
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If your wall or window or roof or foundation has even the tiniest leak that pine will turn into a health hazard in no time. Then youre presented with the very unpleasant task of remediating a possibly rotted sill plate. Pressure treated will give more breathing room (pun not intended) to notice and fix the leak.
You should always use a 6 mil poly between the soil and a concrete slab of any type for moisture and condensation between ground temperatures and the concrete slab.The moisture barrier the code is reffing to, is between the sill plate and the top of the concrete. It is normally a foam or paper paper product, it is there for moisture and also an air seal between the 2 materials. Also treated lumber should be used when in contact with any concrete or masonry like product that can soak up moisture.
The plastic under the slab provides moisture and radon protection for the interior portions of the floor. Slabs poured on grade are not really protected at the perimeter because they can wick moisture laterally/vertically. Most code enforcement require pressure treated lumber when in contact with concrete in addition to the moisture barrier under the slab. Non-treated floor plates can be used when acceptable moisture protection is provided under the plate or the plate is naturally decay resistant. This is old school requirements and I’m not currently up to date.