Customizing HVAC closet doors can be a cost-effective and stylish way to enhance the functionality and aesthetics of your space. By following these DIY tips, you can create a unique look for your closet or dressing room door. You can paint them to match your walls, add a mural, install louvered doors for ventilation, opt for bi-fold doors for tight spaces, or even a sliding barn door.
Custom interior doors are different from bulk stock doors, as they can be custom-sized to fit unique HVAC closet dimensions. Bifold doors can be custom-sized to fit unique closet dimensions, ensuring a perfect fit and optimized use of space. With various design choices available, including those with white glass or decorative slots, custom closet doors can make your home transformation quick, easy, and affordable.
There are various options for custom closet doors, such as made-to-order bifold, louvered, and sliding closet doors. These doors can be made with the best quality materials and safety measures. Air handler closet doors ensure smooth operation and elevate the entire room’s aesthetic. Plantation-style bifold doors are suitable for closets, pantries, laundry areas, and HVAC closets.
AC/Louvered Doors combine aesthetic appeal with practical functionality, making them ideal for areas requiring ventilation, like closets or laundry rooms. To install these doors, simply separate the base frame of the bottom of the door and glue in the hollow area and on the 1 x 1 x door width.
📹 $66 Custom Door Anyone Can Do!!
We upgraded our flat panel pantry door with plywood ($26.99) and paint ($38.98)! This is a custom door that’s easy to DIY. Thanks …
📹 Sliding Door (Hidden Track Hardware)
Sliding Door (Hidden Track Hardware) Love sliding doors, but hate the look of the track? Tired of the barn door look, and don’t …
Did y’all know we have 4 websites now? This main one, plus: 🎮 Evan and Katelyn Gaming youtube.com/evanandkatelyngaming (us playing games and chatting, enhanced by epic editing and a heavy dose of memes) 🎙️ Evan and Katelyn Podcast youtube.com/evanandkatelynpodcast (chatting about life, YouTube stuff, and playing games you can play along with) 😹 Evan and Katelyn Too youtube.com/evanandkatelyn2 (still figuring this one out 😂)
this is the article that gave me the confidence to remove and try to fix a doorknob. i mean you guys made it seem so easy to remove and reinstall (it wasn’t even the point of the article!), and while my door was stuck closed and locked for a day i eventually got it to work! your articles work in mysterious ways 🙂
8:00 was me as a housepainter when I finally gave a woman an honest answer about her 10 color swatches in variations of beige. She didn’t understand at first and I was like “you can’t tell when it’s on a 2×2” square, but once this covers your entire living room you’re gonna realize it’s pink. Most of the time I would just say “if you like it I love it, I’m gonna put it on and make it look nice and then leave, you’re the one that has to live in it.” Of course that led to me having to repaint the same bathroom three times because it wasn’t just the right shade of yellow.
If anybody ever asks me “Why get married?” I will direct them to any one of your articles. Most couples can only hope for 1% of the teamwork the two of you display. Synchronized Sanding! Olympic level Curling style glueing! and Oh Em Double Effin Ghee those cat paws… I keep thinking those are your actual cat’s paws LOL
Good job guys. A few pointers: 1. Purchase a sheet of foam board insulation to use as a spoil board. Your work is fully supported, as well as largely non-slip. Use this spoil board for project after project. Replace it when it’s falling apart, which should be quite a long while provided you set your blade height to just clear the material thickness. I use this on literally every project. 2. “Clamping” could’ve been achieved with scrap lumber, sheet goods, etc. Simply place the scrap on top of the faux door front and weight it down with anything handy. As an aside, since the plywood is thin and not structural, clamping isn’t actually necessary. Letting the glue set for a couple of hours would suffice nicely. 3. A chisel and hammer would’ve make quick work if notching out the hinge-side faux stile. Lastly, and this is just personal preference, I would’ve installed new brushed nickel hinges to match the door lever and adjoining kitchen hardware.
Great idea! A couple of tips. you can use a pin nailer to attach the diagonal pieces along with the wood glue. secondly, your paint sprayer has a knob that allows you to turn the paint spray vertically or horizontally. i think you need another spray coat because I can still see the spray patterns…But still a great article and funny as always. Sorry if I sound picky…Lol
I get annoyed when people dismiss this cause “you need a whole workshop”. Most people who own a home (renters hardly will upgrade a door anyway) will have some sort of power tools, like a drill and some sort of saw – and if not, they will eventually need one anyway. A circular saw doesn’t even cost much.
I think you could add in the details that are missing and useful. You used a circular saw – what blade did you use (how many teefers)? You used the orbital sanders – what grit paper did you use? The bottom strip of the door had bowing but then the article just cut to it flush flat! What did you mean by turn the paint sprayer 90 degrees?
Pretty sweet….good work, and you guys seem like you’re living life, having fun, and you are fun too. Since I’m a bit on the lazy side, I’d be tempted to try to get the same effect with different shades of paint, and a little making tape. You’d edge me out on the finished product, but I think my idea would give a nice look too.
For my wood putty I would do one of two things if not both. I will put a little bit of water on the top when I am done with it between projects.. that keeps the oxygen away from the putty itself and doesnt dry. i will also put it in a plastic back and seal it up to keep it fresh. Oxygen the enemy. Happy building.
Question!? I got a question! (raising hand)LOL – Ok I have saw in your other articles you have a Shapeoko and a Carvey. I am wondering why? They both can carve 3D right? So why do you need both? I am just curious. I spent 20 years in the automotive field, until 2 years ago when I went to school for Engineering, Drafting, and Design. I am also an artist so I am familiar with Illustrator, Photoshop, Solidworks, PTC Creo, and I have Fusion 360, Inventor, and Mudbox at home (but I have to get familiar with them<--Home software) I have also used Stratasys 3D printers, here at work we have a Creality CR-10S. In school my eyes were opened to using 3D prints to make a mold, where we sand casted it, used a foundry to cast it in aluminum, and then machined the item on a Bridgeport Mill machine. Now perusal your articles more ideas are popping into my head. So I am curious why you went with both CNC machines? Is one better than the other, other than overall size of work pieces? I am looking at getting one in the future and just looking for your thoughts.
“The reason we’re not using the table saw is because it’s big and floppy!” Instant flashbacks of cutting lauan for almost every project we’ve ever done at school on the table saws. It was a great time. Always fun having 3 people try and guide the wood and stabilize it to try to get a perfect edge (which, 90% of the time, it wasn’t but it didn’t need to be thankfully 😭) It is SO DIFFICULT to work work. God I wish I had one of those things. 😂
I guess it was fun going through all the trouble, while all you really had to do was mark and make around 20 straight cuts in 1/4″ sheet of plywood. You could’ve used a router, circular saw or even Dremel rotary tool. Remember Einstein.. “Everything should be made as simple as possible, but no simpler.”
Looks really good that. Well done. I’ve done similar but used one sheet of ply and routed my space lines out before attaching to the door. It’s swings and roundabouts to achieve roughly the same goal. I’ve recently watched a couple of you vids, and find your ideas, passion and fun infectious. New sub aboard👍 Why not have a go at highlighting the recesses with epoxy or heat set powder coating using a hot air gun. Epoxy is easier and safer, but the finished product can look amazing either way. Great job though.
It seems like a great idea. I have often thought of ways to upgrade a lauan door. Unfortunately this looks good from a distance but when you get close and look at the reveal and fit of the door you are going to see a complete disaster. 1. The door will now be 5/16″ thicker than the standard 1 3/8″ interior door and be protruding out of its frame. 2. The 3″ hinges that are designed for 1 3/8″ are likely to bind up now because the hinge sets farther back on the door by 1/4″-5/16″ depending on how well the glue was clamped. 3. Lauan doors are lightweight and reinforced with cardboard. The rails and stiles are generally made from masonite. Best case scenario made from fingerjointed pine. The issue is if you start adding weight to the door skin you run a risk of the door structurally failing, due to the skin being 5x as heavy. I do love the idea, but for a house as nice as that one I would have built an entire custom door, or used a solid core door with a custom rabbet frame to allow for the door being 1 11/16″ thick. Of course you aren’t going to be able to accomplish either for 66$. Not trying to be negative or a hater but I’ve built and hung thousands of custom doors. This type of custom work can look professional or it can look like it was done for 66$.
That looks fantastic! Very high end. Plus, I have the Flexio myself and it’s a beast — so cool that you can spray latex paint without any thinning at all without paying an arm and a leg for a super high end turbine. Can’t spray lacquer with it… but nothing is perfect. Worth noting — you CAN buy door handles that work with much thicker doors. I made a theater door that’s a full 3″ thick and was able to get a door handle that worked with it. On the downside, it a) wasn’t cheap and b) definitely wasn’t available at Lowes or any other home improvement store.
Looks beautiful!! We just redid our bath/laundry room. It was like dominoes one idea to another. With your project did you consider building a platform drawer under the freezer to make it the same height as the washer dryer. For a continuous counter surface? I love the color for the cabinet and walls. Very elegant
To whoever is reading this Jesus loves you and he’s coming soon. All you need to do to be saved is believe that Jesus Christ died on the cross for your sins was buried and came back to life on the 3d day. Confess with your mouth Jesus is Lord and you’ll be saved! I hope to see you in the clouds! God bless
To whoever is reading this Jesus loves you and he’s coming soon. All you need to do to be saved is believe that Jesus Christ died on the cross for your sins was buried and came back to life on the 3d day confess with your mouth Jesus is Lord and you’ll be saved. Today is the day of salvation tomorrow is not promised and you don’t want to miss the rapture it will be so bad like nothing ever seen before on earth. God bless
@2:24 diggin’ the tunes. Can’t go wrong with some swing-hop. I think that’s what it’s called o_O The girlfriend and I we’re gonna use thin strips of trim and lay them as a large and smaller rectangle out on our panel doors. Well, half an hour into the one side we decided, “Naaah we’ll just buy some cheap new, nice styled panel doors.” It would be really cool for a single door but we have eight total that we’d have to do, that’s 16 sides (basically 8 hours of just cutting the trim, not including gluing them and painting). It’d be pretty tedious and time consuming. The trim we bought we’ve decided to use along our steps which will look good. Might use the second kind of trim we go to spruce up the closet sliding doors though…hmmm. Anyways, this turned out great! Looks like a fun project.
Parallel universe version Nr. 58: 1) Cut a rectangle in the exact size as the door from the plywood panel. Keep fine sawdust for use in step Nr. 4. 2) Use a router to cut the grooves. Keep fine sawdust for use in step Nr. 4. 3) Use pin nails and glue to attach the plywood onto the door. 4) Make a paste with wood glue and fine sawdust left over from cutting, sanding and routing. Use this paste to fill imperfections as needed. 5) Allow glue and filler to dry and stain or paint. 6) Allow paint / stain to dry. 7) Attach hardware and reinstall door.
Just a word of advice, even if you are using a guide … never ever place your hand underneath what you are cutting when you are using a circular saw. I’ve seen too many blades bind, saws jump or become erratic, and fingers lost or hands lacerated. Want you guys to make more articles without injuries 😉 Also, when gluing something like those slats; you can place cardboard across your finish surface then place scrap 2×4’s across the slats and clamp the 2×4’s to your worktable.
A couple tips for your next attempt at this……. After you spread glue on the thin strip of wood, very lightly spread some table salt on the glue. It will not have any adverse effect on the wood or the glue, and it will act as an abrasive to help prevent the wood from moving. Sand can also be used, but you would have to make sure there are no small stone chips that are larger than the sand as they could cause a high spot on the thin strip. Which ever you use, just remember to use it sparingly, a little bit goes a long way. When gluing pieces of wood that you can not reach with clamps, or just don’t have enough clamps, use weight. You can use bags of sand, paver base, or even concrete, or if you have free weights from your home gym, they can be used too. You will just have to lay down some kind of protection between the weight and the wood, so your wood does not get stained (plastic, parchment paper, or something else). I have even seen people here on YouTube use the weight of their car as a clamp. They would glue up 2 pieces of wood, lay it down on the garage floor, and drive up onto the wood using the car as a clamp.
The one thing I would have done differently is to skip the wood glue altogether. You were using it on a painted surface, and wood glue doesn’t adhere well to paint. The CA glue that you used on the slats to “clamp” them is probably what’s actually holding them in place lol, that stuff is stupidly strong as long as it’s not exposed to dynamic forces (its brittle), and this was decorative work, not structural, which means the only force on the glue would be the weight of the wood itself. Also, for filling in gaps in wood that will later be painted over, try bondo. It sounds weird, I know, but it works really well. Certainly better than old fishy wood filler lol. You guys did a great job on this project BTW, the finished product looks really great.
Great idea for a project. When I’ve worried about spacers and glue, I coat the spacers with paraffin or beeswax, the glue never sticks. Since you’re painting, you could have also (purchased if you don’t have one) put in a couple of pin nails to hold while the glue dries. Then use wood filler on the very tiny pin nail holes. Also cool that your kitty can now hide in plain site in front of the door. Catbush!
Pretty cool, pro tip, when installing doors you could use a screw driver, or dowel (if worried about scratching floor) as leverage instead of your flilp flop. Also, you could have used a trim bit in your router and ran it on top of the door to trim out where the hinges went instead of the awkward way you done it, clean up with a wood chisel. I love perusal your guys articles, the dynamic is amazing
Hi guy n gal. An idea for you, instead of holding down something for a period of time . Why not use a large flat bottom bottle or plastic kissed tub and fill with water or sand or even cast yourselves some weights in concrete. You can additional weight by adding additional aggregate of a larger density than the sand granules.
That door looks nice, but it really bothers me that you didn’t spend a little more money to change the hinges to some silver ones(or brushed nickel which is what it actually looks to be). Also, I think it would look even better if you went back and painted the small gaps between the pieces you added white to better show the details of the door.
Great job guys. In the future if you have a spacer or caul that you have to use during the glueing process but have that same fear of it being glued while it dries, try wrapping it in packing tape. Just the clear regular old packing tape. In your case all 6 sides. I have used this before with great success.
i love perusal these kinds of articles. years ago i build my own dresser out of thick sturdy wood (forgot the name of it) and to this day i’m still using it. i loved creating the entire design and building it. ofcourse i had a little help of a teacher but i made it all on my own. i’m so proud of it! and i want to do it all again! i want to build more, but i’m not in school anymore and i don’t have any money/room to have anything at all
I love it! I’m so jealous! You guys went above and beyond but you did so like a team and that’s beautiful that you guys built it together! This is a project I would love to try but I could never do it because I don’t have the equipment that even if I had the equipment I would not want to do it LOL but I would want it which means I would have to pay some handyman to do it for me.
Quick question…and it might have already been addressed but I’m not going through all 450 comments (DANG!). What do you think of your cordless orbital sander? I tried another brand and promptly returned it. The thing didn’t rotate with any amount of pressure. Your insight would be greatly appreciated. Anyways, great articles!
I just have to ask if it is an illusion or did you reverse the article footage at 2:37 – 2:40 ? It looks like righty loosey instead of righty tighty. I paused it and Used the period and comma keys to move it frame by frame and it looks reversed but it could be the perfect speed to trick the camera. No big deal but it caught my eye and I had to ask. I like perusal your articles and Finally subscribed today after perusal the geode articles. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for your article. I have a question that I don’t see posted yet. I always find Richelieu’s website confusing, at the top of the page it looks like they’re saying they sell this hinge “4 by case” does that mean you get 4 of them? I only want 1. I’m hoping to use it for a bookcase door like another commenter mentioned. I also find their minimum/maximum door data sheet confusing af. But maybe if I wasn’t just on my phone.