Drywall screws are a popular choice for attaching drywall to metal or wood, but they are not suitable for outdoor use due to their coarser threads that can damage the delicate paper surface of drywall. Deck screws, slightly thicker than traditional drywall screws, offer a stable solution but are not recommended for outdoor projects.
Drywall screws are specifically designed for attaching drywall to metal or wood, while wood screws have coarser threads that can damage the delicate paper surface of drywall. To ensure a secure and professional finish, choose a screw 1.5 to 2 times the thickness of two drywalls.
When tackling a DIY drywall project, it is important to choose the right type of screws. For example, an 8-inch long wood screw is sufficient for 5/8 inch OSB or at most 2 inches long for 3/4 inch plywood. However, drywall screws should not be used for building a deck, as construction screws (decking screws) typically have sharper points and deeper threads than drywall screws, making them better suited for outdoor use.
Deck screws are slightly fatter than drywall screws, so there is a slightly bigger chance of splitting the wood behind if using furring strips. Drywall screws are not interchangeable, and 1-1/4″ drywall screws work for both 1/2″ and 5/8″ drywall. Self-tapping drywall screws are typically used, but they may cause the wall to feel flimsy after using multiple screws.
In summary, drywall screws are a reliable and strong option for attaching drywall to metal or wood, but they are not suitable for outdoor use.
📹 This is why your SCREWS are STRIPPING in Steel Studs!!!
Why steel studs strip and how to solve it! Want to support the channel?
What screws will hold in drywall?
Drywall screws are divided into two main categories: fine thread and coarse thread. Fine thread screws are used for light gauge metal framing, while coarse-thread screws are best suited for attaching drywall to wood studs. Self-tapping screws are the most commonly used fastener, and the type of fastener depends on the frame material (wood or metal). Countersunk head drywall screws allow the screw to sit flush with the surface, creating a smooth, even finish.
A black finish on standard screws is due to a phosphate mineral coating that minimizes rust and corrosion when exposed to wet paint or joint compound. Celo fixings, a leading manufacturer of drywall screws, offers a wide variety of screws with different dimensions and threads to securely fasten drywall. They offer a range of products, including coarse-thread screws for wood and fine thread screws for metal structures.
Are construction screws OK for framing?
Many people believe that screws are easier to handle, but they are not always the best choice for framing work. Framing work is the process of creating the basic structural framework of a building, which involves attaching wooden pieces using nails or screws. Screws are not flexible, making them unsuitable for framing due to their ability to bend as a structure moves. As a result, nails are often the safer, longer-lasting choice. Construction screws have various applications, but framing is not one of them. Therefore, it is not recommended to use screws for framing work.
Do you really need drywall screws?
Drywall screws are the standard fastener for securing drywall to walls or ceilings, favored for their strong tacking power, ease of use, and economy. They are recommended for different thicknesses of drywall, such as 1/2-inch, 5/8-inch, and 1/4-inch. For 1/2-inch drywall, use 1-1/4-inch or 1-5/8-inch screws. For 5/8-inch drywall, use 1-5/8-inch or 2-inch screws, as it is often required to comply with fire codes and is used in garages and walls adjacent to furnace rooms. For 1/4-inch drywall, use 1- to 1 1/4-inch screws, as it is flexible and can be used to form curves.
Can I use regular screws instead of drywall screws?
Wood screws are commonly used for attaching wood to other materials, but they are not suitable for drywall due to their threads not being designed for it. Drywall screws are specifically designed for attaching drywall to studs or framing, with bugle heads and a sharper point compared to wood screws. They also self-pierce into thin metal studs for quicker installation due to their hardened nature. Wood screws, on the other hand, are not hardened and do not have a self-piercing point, requiring pilot holes.
Wood screws have coarser threads, making them ideal for wood to other materials but can damage the delicate paper surface of drywall, weakening the wall’s structure. It is crucial to note that wood screws are not intended for use in metal and should not be used in conjunction with drywall screws.
Are exterior screws strong?
Deck screws are stronger and more durable than thin nails, often made from stainless steel or copper. They are used for outdoor tasks like building decks and fencing. There are different types of deck screws, including wood screws with an unthreaded shank and coarse-threaded portion, and composite screws with finer threads and smaller heads. Some also have an extra thread set to prevent composite material mounding at the screw’s head.
Can I use construction screws to hang drywall?
Drywall screws are superior to construction screws due to their superior threads and self-piercing properties. They are ideal for drywall installation due to their ability to leave a smooth, flush surface with a mushroom effect. Professional contractors often opt for specialized self-drilling drywall screws for drywall projects with steel framing, as they offer superior holding power and are self-tapping. Both types of screws are essential for drywall installation.
Can you use exterior screws for drywall?
Deck screws feature nibs in their head design to cut top material for a flush, countersink finish without pre-countersinking the hole. They also have a type-17 auger point to prevent splitting, unlike drywall screws which do not have a type-17 point. Deck screws cannot have bugle heads, as they are drywall screws. The nibs ensure the screw head is flush with the wood, preventing the screws from affecting the soles of the feet when walking over the surface.
What’s the difference between drywall screws and exterior screws?
The deck screws were found to be more bendable and less brittle than drywall screws, which were slightly more brittle than 8 screws. The deck screws were the least brittle, but another type of deck screw also broke. Difficulty in using drywall screws in hardwoods is due to the strength of the screw itself. When screwing two 1. 5″ screws into ash hardwood without pilot holes, the drywall screw snapped apart near the head. The 8 wood screw sunk slightly below the surface but caused a crack in the wood, while the thinner drywall screw did not.
Can I use any screw for drywall?
The utilization of optimal drywall screws is of paramount importance for the attainment of a robust and enduring attachment, a necessity stemming from the distinctive nature of drywall construction.
Can you use exterior screws for framing?
Construction screws are suitable for general-purpose applications where corrosion resistance is not as high as deck screws, such as framing. They differ from deck screws in their unique designs and applications, making it crucial to choose the right one for your project. The vast array of screws on the market can be overwhelming, but understanding the differences between deck and construction screws can help make informed decisions on your next project. By comparing their characteristics, uses, and benefits, you can make informed decisions for your next DIY project.
Can I use normal screws on plasterboard?
Fastbuild offers a comprehensive range of plasterboard screws, including coarse and fine thread types, as well as self-drill drywall screws, to ensure a secure and square finish on plasterboard and drywall. The dimensions of the plasterboard screw are contingent upon the specific task at hand and the type of plasterboard being affixed. This may include coarse drywall screws, fine drywall screws, or self-drilling screws.
📹 What Screw to Use For Your DIY Project | Fasteners & Tools Guide
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Ben I used to work for a US board manufacturer, you’re correct the edges are harder but it’s not from compressing the bevel. There are 2 types of slurry that fill a board during manufacture: the core essentially has soap which traps a little air to make board lighter, the second slurry is a layer without bubbles and designed to be harder which is spread thinly on the face paper and heavily near the edges. The face paper is unrolled sprayed with the face slurry then the core slurry is poured over before the back paper is laid on. This is done intentionally to reduce handling damage during delivery.
As I mention elsewhere, here in AU, we use stud adhesive pretty much all of the time. SO, we don’t need to screw at the edge of the board. Stud adhesive is actually stronger than screws, because it bonds a 2 or 3 inch round circle on the back of the board. Having demo’d some plaster board, I can tell you this is true. If you put blobs of adhesive along the edge of the board, you only need to put screws some way back from the edge. Assuming the frame is something like straight. We pretty much only use one type of screw here that would be fine threaded …. we call them “bugle heads”. They seem to hold well enough in both metal and timber.
As a life long pro commercial carpenter, I have experienced this 1000’s of times. It does NOT happen to all sheetrock, but usually to the rock that has sat on the job for days and started to dry-out in the heat. We try not to add screws in the factory edges until the “adjacent” sheet is being hung (ceiling or wall). That allows for “blowout bumps” when screwing seams. Anyway, you can also take your hammer and just dent the board at the point you want to add a screw. It allows the screw to set perfectly. Nice to see you using a HILTI gun. Best sheetrock auto-feed guns ever made. Keep the articles coming…! GREAT JOB
Another thing that helps is never use anything lighter than 20 ga studs. The big box home centers typically carry 25 ga…which is really only good as a straight edge… 😂. In commercial applications, we’re standing our drywall, so we have no choice but to use the compressed tapered edge. I’ve learned to just avoid 25ga if at all possible. I can’t say I’ve ever had an issue with stripping on 20ga.
Ben you could do a article on drill speeds. I started out working nights and weekend with my dad as a kid. He worked at a fastener wholesale, but always was drywall taping painting tiling fence building etc after hours. We originally had a corded Makita, then bought a corded Milwaukee which spun so fast you almost couldn’t push hard enough to keep up with the screw going in and lots improper screws ensued. Returned that and got the corded bigger wattage DeWalt and never looked back. We aquired the lower wattage DeWalt screwgun which is terrible! Its the opposite effect of the bigger wattage “perfect speed” DeWalt. That said for all my jobs now I have the compact 18 volt Makita I bought for 1/2 price from the HD rental shop. Also on drywall hole cutters, corded drywall saws (Makita one is money) I should check that you already haven’t done these.
Yep I go right where the bevel starts. Also in my experience for whatever reason its the cordless drills that will strip screws more frequently. Corded ones don’t seem to do it as often. I try to use my corded Hilti for standups and save the cordless for structural studs or topout where a stripped screw here and there doesn’t matter so much.
I don’t understand why anyone would build a house out of steel. Wood is a hundred times easier to work with, you don’t get shards of metal flying everywhere when you cut it, it’s not so thin that screws have nothing to grip on, it not electrically conductive so you don’t have to worry about shorts, the edges aren’t as sharp as razors, so many reasons to use wood. If you screw up a hole you can fill it with wood and drill again. You can glue it, you can nail it, you can screw it, hell you can use bailing wire if you have to. Metal lasts a long time and doesn’t rot. If you protect your house and don’t let termites in wood lasts a long time and doesn’t rot either. The advantages of steel over wood are negligible, not worth the hassle.