Continuous rigid insulation is a product designed by Pacific Insulation Products to provide extra R-value and enhanced air sealing on the exterior walls of homes. It can be installed over or in place of sheathing products like plywood or OSB, and can be used in climate zones 5 and beyond. The choice of insulation depends on the thickness required to meet specific R-value targets, with colder climates generally requiring higher R-values.
The IRC map provides a prescriptive guide to proper thickness for exterior insulation. For large/detteled surfaces, Arm-R-Seal liquid oil-based topcoat is recommended for projects with large surface areas or nooks and crannies. Arm-R-Seal is a thin urethane topcoat that offers several levels of sheen and is durable. It has been successfully used on home bar projects but has no fine furniture finish.
The R-Value is a measure of insulation’s ability to resist heat traveling through it, and higher R-values indicate better thermal performance. The Arm-R-Seal Oil-Based Topcoats are made with the highest-quality urethane and are self-sealing, making them suitable for interior raw wood surfaces such as cabinets, trim, doors, and furniture.
However, Arm-R-Seal is too hard for an outdoor finish and may crack and peel sooner than the exterior one. The product is available in 12 types and can be applied using brush or roll methods.
In summary, continuous rigid insulation is a cost-effective and effective solution for adding insulation to the exterior of homes. It can be installed over or in place of sheathing products, and its application method is brush or roll.
📹 Choosing the Right Wood Finish for your Project
Wood finishes can be confusing, and there are a lot of options out there. In this video, I go through the most common types of …
Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over water-based stains?
In order to ensure optimal results, it is recommended to allow a minimum of 24 hours between the application of a water-based product and the subsequent application of an oil-based product. In order to guarantee the optimal finish, it is essential that the underlying finish be fully dry. To enhance the user experience, it is recommended to upgrade your browser and adhere to the straightforward guideline of allowing a minimum of 24 hours to elapse before applying the oil-based product.
Is Arm-R-Seal waterproof?
General Finishes products are water-resistant but not impervious to water. Surfaces will not be damaged by spilled water as long as cleaned up promptly. Coasters and pot holders are recommended to protect wood from standing water and heat. To prevent spontaneous combustion, dispose of product-soaked rags in accordance with local ordinances. Clean the finish with a water-damp rag, not until it has cured completely (30 days). If surface cleaning is needed due to grease or grime, add detergent or vinegar.
How long does an Arm-R-Seal take to cure?
The text presents a methodology for attaining a specific color in wood, indicating that optimal conditions of 70°F, 50°F, and 12+ hours of dry time are necessary for re-coating.
Can I thin Arm-R-Seal?
Due to its low viscosity, Arm-R-Seal rarely necessitates the addition of a thinning agent. The product may be thinned with up to 10 mineral spirits, although the addition of a greater quantity may result in an excessive dilution. The thinned Arm-R-Seal is a diluted solution that can be stored without the risk of separation.
Do I have to sand between coats of Arm-R-Seal?
To apply Arm-R-Seal, use a 320 grit sanding sponge or ‘0000’ steel wool between coats for smoothness and adhesion. Remove dust with a vacuum, compressed air, tack cloth, or water-dampened rag. Hand application is preferred due to the risk of spraying too much in one area. Spray thin coats and watch for runs, which can be difficult to remove. Correct runs promptly, as dried runs can be difficult to remove. Wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated spray booth.
How long to wait between coats of Arm-R-Seal?
Arm-R-Seal is a paint that can be applied over raw or stained wood, and over a sealed surface. It takes 12-24+ hours between coats, depending on the ideal conditions of 70°F/21°C and 50 humidity. The more layers of finish, the longer it takes to dry. While spraying is possible, it’s best to use thin coats and watch for runs, which can be difficult to remove. To avoid damage, wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated spray booth.
Can you spray sealant inside?
Flex Seal is a versatile liquid rubber sealant coating suitable for various DIY projects, including wood, metal, tile, concrete, masonry, fabric, glass, plastic, aluminum, porcelain, drywall, rubber, cement, and vinyl. It won’t sag or drip in summer heat, crack or peel in winter cold, and prevents corrosion. To use Flex Seal properly, ensure you have all necessary tools lined up and choose a well-ventilated area, such as your garage or a well-ventilated room with windows open and a fan running.
If you prefer outdoor work, consider your backyard. Choose a dry weekend and cover the area with a drop cloth to prevent Flex Seal from spraying on unwanted areas. Using Flex Seal properly saves time and frustration, and ensures a clean and dry environment for your project.
Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over water based stain?
In order to ensure optimal results, it is recommended to allow a minimum of 24 hours between the application of a water-based product and the subsequent application of an oil-based product. In order to guarantee the optimal finish, it is essential that the underlying finish be fully dry. To enhance the user experience, it is recommended to upgrade your browser and adhere to the straightforward guideline of allowing a minimum of 24 hours to elapse before applying the oil-based product.
Can Arm-R-Seal be used outdoors?
Water-Based Milk Paint is a premium acrylic formulation for interior and exterior use, self-sealing and not requiring a topcoat. General Finishes offers a complete coatings system with various topcoats for professional, industrial, and OEM applications. These include Enduro Professional Tintable 2K Clear Poly, Enduro Professional 2K Conversion Varnish, Enduro Professional 1K White Poly, Enduro Professional Pro Series Clear Poly, Enduro Professional Pro Series White Poly, and Enduro Professional Pre-Cat Lacquer. Retail water-based topcoats include High Performance Topcoat, Flat Out Flat Topcoat, Enduro-Var II Topcoat, Exterior 450 Topcoat, and Wood Turners Finish.
Can you spray Arm-R-Seal?
While Arm-R-Seal can be applied via spraying, it is crucial to exercise caution to prevent overspray in a single area. It is advisable to apply thin coats and to be vigilant for runs, defined as large drips that run down the side of the project. It is imperative to address these issues in a timely manner, as dried runs can prove to be challenging to remove once they have set. It is recommended that the operator wear a mask and work in a well-ventilated spray booth to achieve optimal results.
📹 A finish durable enough for a wooden countertop (Arm-R-Seal)
General Finishes Arm-R-Seal▻ https://amzn.to/31g9H1a When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us▻ Sjobergs: …
Hey Michael Thanks, this tutorial was just what I needed. I love the color of that General Finishes Water Based Antique Cherry stain you demonstrated. That doesn’t seem to come in a water based stain any more. I’m staining raw cherry and want to get an aged look more quickly. Any suggestions for something similar? Have you moved on to something else for that color when staining difficult to stain hardwoods?
I absolutely loved this article! I do have a question, though: are there certain finishing products that should not be stored next to each other or in an enclosed space? I know some chemicals ought to be stored separately in the garage / workshop, but I’d love some advice about the products you’ve mentioned. I currently store all my products next to one another for convenience. Just a curious question. Thanks so much for your terrific articles! You break things down so beautifully – you keep giving me more and more confidence to stretch my skills!
Congratulations for the interesting discussion of the surface treatment. As a hobby turner, I am always looking for the perfect surface, and that as an absolute high gloss. I’ve tried everything, but in the end I always come back to the spray lacquer. This is the only way to achieve the highest gloss. What I’m still missing: the optimal sanding sealer for raw wood, naturally finely sanded. Can you please recommend a sanding sealer that suits my project? Thanks from Austria! Gerhard.
Hey Michael. I make frames and use sustainable hardwoods (ash, oak, walnut, cherry, and maple). I was using Natural Danish Oil from Watco but wondering if the Shellac Clear would be a good way to go or the Tung oil. It was a great article and I know experimentation is the best way to solve this. My objective is always to have the wood grains come through and have a natural look. Also, how many coats do you put on when using Shellac or a Watco oil like danish oil? Thank you
This is great! I’m currently researching how to redo my dining room table and hutch. My kids have really marked my table up. I’m wanting to stain it the “farmhouse” look. I just am not sure it’s solid wood even though I spent a lot on it from Ashley furniture. However I never think it had a good protection bc my kids could just band a fork to hard and scratch it and also their homework from the pencil. Could you please recommend what I should do, sand? Stain? A good heavy duty top coat? I’m just confused bc some say to strip, some sand, but if it’s not solid wood the design on top I’m sure will sand away. I just need help lol. Very good article and I think you’d have great advice! Thank you!
I have some semi gloss polyurethane, I am making pine floater frames and want a natural look on some of them, would you use the poly or invest in general finishes arm or seal oil based. I need protection of frames and want something if one gets dinged I can repair it. the framed paintings when not sold need to be stored and they can get damaged there or in transport. The natural look is pretty much what I am using. thanks
I wish they made the “high performance” General Finishes in oil based and not water based (I mean had both options). I prefer natural wood look made to pop with linseed oil and top coat with poly. I want to have the most durable finish possible, and oil based is stronger than water based. Also, sadly, the General Finishes brand is hard to find and I’m not buying it off amazon so the can, can pop open during shipping. Anyone know what stores actually sell it?
Great article! It was informative and easy to remember the details. Very well done! I had a weird thought at the end of your vid, that I really wanted to see a close-up of the pull-out storage boxes in the stacked shelves behind you. I know it sounds odd, but I use those, too, and am planning to do a quick build of an organizer like that one.
Hi, I learned a lot, thank you so much for sharing this. I’m also wondering about hard wax as a finish? Have you had any experience with hard wax? Do you suggest it over other finishes? According to what I read, hard wax is go to finish for indoors. As for brands, I think there’re three common ones, fiddes, osmo and rubio. In my country I can only find rubio but some people complain about rubio having water stains? Should I go with Rubio or try another finish?
Thank you so much for the informative article! I am going to dye a white ash tabletop with India Ink and then seal with de-waxed shellac. Would the General Finishes water-based HIgh Performance Satin be a good choice for top coat (since you pointed out that it will not yellow)??? Thanks so much for any advice that you can offer regarding finishing over india ink.
Thanks for the article, Michael…super helpful! I’m building a cherry bookshelf for a friend and I’m still trying to decide on a finish. I really want the grain to pop and let the wood shine as much as possible. I was thinking of Arm-R-Seal, but I’ve also read that most varnishes block UV light to some degree, which might prevent the natural darkening I’m looking for…any ideas? Thanks!
Amazing article, thanks for sharing so much heard-earned wisdom. I will be coming back to reference this regularly. One thing I think should be noted, at 14:20 you mention concern that the salad bowl finish is a petroleum product, but technically mineral oil is too. So everything on that table in this section can be considered a petroleum product, except the shellac 😅I know mineral oil is considered food safe, but knowing it comes from petroleum freaks me out just a little too much, so I prefer fractionated coconut oil (which doesn’t go rancid). Walrus Oil sells big jugs of it!
Interesting fact is that the number one user of shellac is the pharmaceutical industry. They use it to coat pills. That’s why aspirin is chalky and Tylenol isn’t, it’s coated in shellac. Also used in making candy. Chocolate covered peanuts don’t have it, but chocolate covered raisins do. Completely food safe.
I make bird houses and Fairy houses. I put the fairy houses around my town and the kids love them. My nick name is Grumpy LOL. I would like to build some of them with plywood but it falls apart after a year or so, is there a finish I can use to protect them from the rain? I use a water based paint on the bird houses and then finish them with a spray lacquer on the roof and outside. Is there anything better to protect them?
I know this an older article, but I was looking for finish tips and I’m very impressed by your website. So here’s a head scratcher. I’ve built a wood workbench in my garage. I do just about every type of project you can think of on there. What type of Sealant, Hard coat would you suggest for something like a fairly vigorously used work bench Thanks in advance. Amazing website‼️‼️♥️
For a Birch butcher block desk that I want to bring out the beauty of the wood grain AND keep it blonde and not yellowed, do you still recommend the water-based satin top coat by itself? How do you apply it, how many coats for a durable finish (sand grit between coats?), and what’s the realistic drying time between coats on a soft wood like Birch? Thank you!
I don’t do any woodworking really so don’t know much, but have had occasionally had to fix up old speaker cabinets. I have a pair of Klipsch Forte II in black (black ash?), the tops of which are damaged (cup rings, some raised/swollen water spots.) I’ve read the finish used is a black lacquer. Any suggestions for refinishing just the top to have a similar look? I’d prefer not to touch the sides as they’re just fine. The black India Ink and black oil paint+Galkid finishes demonstrated both look like possible choices, but hard to tell from the one article sample. Anyone have experience with either that can chime in on the finished look?
Hi. Love the article. Listen I have a really large really beautiful table that is made from old heavy Pine lumber from the UK and it seats 22 people….which is why we have to have it outdoors. BUT….every year we cover with several large canvass painting tarps, followed by several heavy duty huge rain tarps. It’s held up really well. I would like to finish it with something that will retain the beautiful light pine old wood but be able to be indoors when we move which may be happening in a year. Can I use the oil based urethane by General Finishes ( the Arm-R-Seal) that you showed….OR will it turn the color? If so can I get away with a water based Satin Polyurethane by General Finishes….bearing in mind that we cover it so completely all winter ????? I would be super grateful for your advice:) Thank you!!!
What about no or low VOC finishes. I still use Arm R Seal and other General Finishes products as well as some oils and wax here and there, but ever since using Rubio Monocoat, that’s pretty much the only thing I want to use if I just want wood to look as natural and as beautiful as possible. It’s also just so quick and easy… durable. Except for the price, it’s pretty much perfect.
15:50 I applied Minwax water based Pro Series Spar Urethane clear gloss, with a foam brush, over a project that is partially water base stained, and partially painted. The problem I am having is bubbles that CONSTANTLY show up, I lightly sand them out after drying, clean the surface with a slightly dampened paper towel, wait for the surface to dry, wipe it with a dry microfiber towel, apply another coat, and when I return after a couple hours, BUBBLES!!!!! I am losing my mind here Mike……..please help.
Great article, definitely saving this one. When talking about outdoor finishes I was surprised you didn’t mention Spar Varnish at all, but I guess maybe that’s just because you prefer paint for outdoor projects, and perhaps it was lumped under the general “varnish” category. That said, I think Spar Varnish has some unique qualities like giving a very yellow hue to the wood almost immediately. The other outdoor finish I’ve used on recent projects is Total Boat Halcyon. I used this on a custom set of cornhole boards and I was really happy with the application and results. Comes in clear or amber. I chose amber for this because I wanted a somewhat antique look to the finished project and thought the warm tone would complement the family crest that I put on it, along with the white oak that I tinted with medium walnut Danish Oil. It ended up very smooth and seems to be very durable so far. The other thing I liked about the Halcyon is that it goes on very quick. I did 4-5 coats in one day and gave it 2-3 days to fully cure.
Hi Michael, enjoy your article You talk more like an artist so I’m gathering you are:) question: I have a kitchen table which was given to me and I love it ! It has a Pine table top. ( top of chairs are also same but still have nice finish) I want to keep the color of the wood just want to get the gunky built up on the surface which you can scrape off with your your fingernails. I am sanding over with a 220 first I started by hand then went to an electric one because of the work 🙂 I also think this is good therapy I want to pick the right finish for this and have a waterbased spar urethane clear satin. I also have minwax natural. What do you think I should use for this project? Thanks Sandra
I’ve used General finish’s Salad Bowl Finish lots on spoons and it’s held up remarkably well over time – as in years – but recently tried to first put it over spoons that I first put down layers of shellac but even after 48 hours the Wood Bowl Finish was tacky so I wiped it off with acetone. It’s a new can of Wood Bowl Finish and as in the past I followed the instructions (stir, apply thin coat and let it for 24 hours) but made not difference. Why might this be? Can I expect the same from gel poly (old masters) which I’ve ordered?
Great article! I’m a beginner. Just finished making end tables of sapele, finished with 5 coats ArmRSeal, wife wants it really waterproof for drink-glass protection. But I dont like the ambering effect, seems like the sapele rich red is now more orange. Is there a way to bring out iridescence, say with shellac, then topcoat with water based poly which is so much less yellowing? Or is there an oil topcoat that doesn’t yellow? I want to make the coffee table out of sapele too! Thanks for the help!
Question: I’ve sanded my old nasty solid oak table and I’m planning on applying General Finishes Gray Gel Stain. Which top coat would you use for it? It’s my dining table and I love a soft glow, but not sure since I’m going from the aged oak look (I’m so over that) to gray gel stan, lightly done. Thanks for your help.
I am going to be making a computer desk with an 8′ long botcher block for the top. I was thinking of using a few costs of the natural danish oil and then using the wipe on poly to seal and protect it. Is this a good strategy to follow. I have never done anything like this and was hoping for the easiest/most fool proof way of getting this accomplished. I was initially thinking about brushing on lacquer but fear that the size of the desk top, the lacquer might not be the best idea because it may dry too fast and by using a brush, I could run into having streaks on the desk top.
Hi. I mistakenly used Polyacrylic instead of water based polyurethane on a butcher block counter top (Lowe’s had it sitting right next to their oil based polyurethane). Now, months later, the paper from boxes, like cereal or popcorn, sticks to the polyacrylic. I then have to scrape the paper free. How can I fix this?
Hi Mike, wondering if you could make a suggestion? I used GF antique walnut Gel stain on brand new oak stair treads. I bought GF gel topcoat to apply over it. I have not used it yet. I’m hesitant now. Would it be better to use GF water based topcoat High Performance or Arm-R-seal? Which of the 3 would be best in your opinion? As well, I was a little concerned over the yellowing of the oil based but if you think that it would turn very yellow over time I could live with that, any help would be appreciated.
I have a fire place mantel that i stained red Mahogany (its a bit darker than i wanted) and i need to finish it but i do not want to darken it further…I hear water based poly do not darken wood, but that shelac and oil based finishes ARE FOR dark wood like Mohagany….which should I use!!!??? Please help
Thank you for the seminar lol. Question tho, Can the water base general finishes be used outdoor ? Main reason is to protect the wood from heat,humidity and a little bit of water ( balcony area). Also it’s a weathered look and has some whites to it. Since the oil base would yellow and darker it, what would you recommend? Thank uuu
Hoping you can help. I sanded my kitchen cabinets to raw wood, used preconditioned then used an oil based stain. Did a practice board and loved it. Did all my cabinet boxes first, still loved it. Then did the drawers and that’s where it all went downhill. The wood grain varies too much from drawer to drawer, and I hate it. It’s a medium tone brown/grey. I don’t want to sand it all down again. I would like to get a dark charcoal or off black look. Do you have any ideas how I can achieve that over an oil based stain? There’s not topcoat only stain. Thank you so much.
Thanks for the nice comparison summary. I wanted to comment a bit about my favorite finish – Nitrocellulose lacquer. Though I use much of the same variety that you do, lacquer is my go-to finish for fine wood frames. I think it looks a bit better on close grain woods like cherry and maple, but it can look good on walnut, mahogany, and white ash, too. The key is to use a semi-gloss, and to wet-sand VERY lightly twice. Once after the first two coats (five mins apart), and once after the final two coats. Pay attention to distance and speed with the aerosol and it lays nicely without running or feeling ‘sandy’. In my opinion, nothing pops grain and polishes so nicely as lacquer. Not super blonde shellac, not Arm-r-Seal.
Hi Michael, SUPERB article! When I go into the wood finishes department I break out into a cold sweat 😱 and start to shake because of the number of finishes, I was so glad to find this article. I work with Pine a lot and what would you recommend as a exterior and interior finish that will prevent the Pine from darkening? ~Thank Michael!
Really good job on this article. I have watched hundreds of articles and never felt compelled to comment but your presentation was great, speed of material covered and the spectrum of material covered was terrific. I particularly liked the section on protecting your lungs. Its so important and seldom mentioned (some guys/gals demonstrate without wearing anything). Keep up the good work.
I never comment but give thumbs up to everything (fairly new here). PLEASE talk about fire hazard of LINDSEED OIL/and RAGS with this on it- HOW WILL INSTANTANEOUSLY COMBUST/ and burn down houses. A lot of artists (especially oil painters) will NOT know about this and lose their homes or worse. I had a link to a good article and lost it. Anyways when I learned of this myself I became a LOT more careful (I am an artist). Also I used to finish wood in New England in the winters inside our house and damaged my lungs. Please use respirators, losing lung power especially as time goes by is a BITCH. Thanks for letting me comment.
General finishes water poly is prob the poly iv had the absolute worst time with. No bubble issues like with say a minmax but its thicker/dries faster. Could not get this stuff to level out to save my life no matter the application method, minmax was a breeze in comparison. I finally thinned it down with 10% distilled water and it worked like a charm. Just much longer dry time and of course its thinner coats.
thanks for the great info, Michael. i guess i have a lot to learn about this stuff, because i loved the look of Danish oil (Natural tone) on a walnut project from a couple years ago, so i thought i’d put it on a red oak coffee table i just finished…oh, so UGLY! looks like my parents’ kitchen cabinets from the early 1980s. hideous!!! now i have to try sanding it all away and trying some kind of clear poly finish so i don’t throw up on it. beware of the gnarly amber color of “Natural” Danish oil on red oak friends!
I have to refinish 29 tables for a restaurant that is closed during covid-19. I’m not a professional, but of all their staff I have the most experience in buying old furniture and fixing it up, but all my experience is for residential tables. It’s a very busy restaurant, the tables are in constant use some that I stripped down literally had four circles worn completely away by the plates. I have used a pre-stain, and then Varathane wood stain in ebony. My question, I bought the Varathane Polyurethane for floors, thinking it would be more durable for tables that are used so much, can I use it on the tables? Have I made a mistake? I’ve just spent 4 hours searching on You Tube and can’t find anyone who has done this. This article was the most informative I’ve seen all night, so I’m hoping you can help me before I ruin all the tables? Thank You, and I hope you see this in time.
I made a serving platter and finished it with multiple coats of Howard cutting board oil and then a couple more coats of Howard butcher block conditioner. I tested out the platter and did a quick rinse with some water to clean it off and I wasn’t pleased with how much it raised the grain from getting water on it. Would salad bowl finish be a better choice to not have as much grain raise? Or do you have a recommendation? It’s not a cutting board, it would just be for serving food.
I learned a lot from this article. I’m a newbie when it comes to wood finishes. I bought a bamboo countertop from Home Depot for our bathroom. I made the mistake of putting a few coats of Danish Oil on it before realizing that it wouldn’t protect the wood enough in a bathroom. I’ve now bought the Arm-R-Seal oil based top coat. Can I just put it on top of the Danish Oil or do I need to sand it down first? Thanks
I love my wood butcher block counter top. It’s a great surface and adds a lot of warmth and character to the kitchen. But, I went a different route for a finish… I have birch wood, and the finish I chose was Waterlox Satin finish. It came out a beautiful golden color, AND it’s truly water proof, and VERY stain resistant (this last part was a happy surprise). Standing water/liquids do not affect it at all. The biggest thing to keep in mind is that you can not put hot items on the counter top. You have to use a hot pad, but it’s an easy habit to form. But toasters, toaster ovens, and such are not an issue. As for dents, dings as the years go on, they add character. But the Waterlox will slowly re-flow any slight surface finish dings over time. But if it’s to deep, it’s easy to get out the sand paper and sand the spots and reapply the finish. Personally I haven’t had the need to do it, yet. I like the dings and such. As for sealing the underside, it is HIGHLY recommended to seal the underside of the wood above a dishwasher. Just extend the sealing coat a foot or so on each side of the dishwasher to the underside the counter top. Some people tend to open the dishwasher after the cycle has run to let things dry out. This lets out a lot of steam, that can affect unsealed wood.
Arm-R-Seal is a good choice. However, in this case, I would have been tempted to go with walnut oil. Walnut oil, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil, is a ‘hardening’ or ‘curing’ oil. That is, with exposure to oxygen, walnut oil polymerizes into a durable finish. You can speed up curing with heat. On the lathe, I like to wet sand with walnut oil. The heat from sanding helps the oil to cure. Usually, within a couple of days, an item is cured enough to be put to use. Arm-R-Seal has the advantage of being a more durable finish than walnut oil. So, why would I have been tempted to use walnut oil? It’s self-repairing. If a portion of the finish is worn through, there’s no need to sand the old finish back before applying a new coat of walnut oil. Simply clean the clean the area and wipe on some walnut oil. Let the oil soak in and, after 30 minutes or so, wipe off any excess. That ease of maintaining the finish would have been very attractive. Besides, I just like the idea of walnut countertops being finished with walnut oil!
If you are also using a wood counter for a cutting board, I would recommend a food safe finish such as mineral oil, same as butcher’s block oil but cheaper. I built a 6 foot cutting board style counter in my kitchen with a bar sink in it and the mineral oil is holding up fine, just have to wipe on a coat when it starts looking dry.
Thanks for this countertop article series! I just put a wood countertop in my kitchen. I didn’t have time or space to finish with a more durable product, so I’m going with mineral oil and food safe wax/conditioner for now. I’m hoping to put something lower maintenance on in the future. . Can this be used on a countertop that’s already been soaked with oil? 30 days is a long time to not use a countertop already in place. Do you have any alternative suggestions?
James had to watch this a second time to catch the “poly-urinate” slight. On your recommendation, I tried Arm-R-Seal and love it. Question, have you tried any ceramic coatings such as Black Forest over Arm-R-Seal? Found a couple of You Tubers that swear by it but thought I would check with the “Expert” first.
About the need for respirators and your “I find it’s not as bad as other finishes”: Yes you can kind-of feel how much it attacks your lungs (I’ve seen a person in hospital essentially drowning, because a varnish remover in unventilated room drew liquid into his lungs) — but only short-term acute damage not long-term. But NO just like medicines or toxic plants, YOU CANNOT gauge what damage it’s causing to your kidneys AT ALL. And your liver+kidneys is where everything you’ve inhaled will eventually end up (except for asbestos fibres and similar mechanical irritants).
I just turned down a job to repair a maple top that had horrible stains around the faucet and cracks above the dishwasher. The client said the C top maker was a jerk because he refused to fix it again. They said they had two spare tops that were slightly damaged that he left in the basement… I left. I agree with JusBidniss… Granite it is.
Hi James. I’ve been enjoying your articles for a long time.I’m loving this series on the countertop and have one question.I have a butcherblock countertop which was finished with raw linseed oil. Would the finish you just used on the walnut be able to go over the top of the linseed oil as a new finish or would I need to plane it down?
für den deutschen Sprachraum empfehle ich Osmo-Color Arbeitsplatten Farbe. Bei den Baumärkten wird sie leider immer weiter zurückgedrängt, aber von der gleichen Firma die “Landhausfarbe” ist (wie die Arbeitsplatten Farbe auch) der glatte Wahnsinn. Ich habe (trotz einige andere Tests) nichts Vergleichbares gefunden. Ich habe meiner Frau eine Abwasch gebaut die 10 cm höher ist, weil sie 1,80 ist und die normale Abwasch immer Rückenschmerzen verursacht hat. Das ist jetzt zehn Jahre her: Man SIEHT überhaupt nicht, dass die täglich hart im Betrieb ist!!! Es sieht einfach so aus wie am ersten Tag, unglaublich! Beim Obi wan kenobi habe ich hin und wieder Dosen gefunden, man bekommt sie aber auch bei Amazon. Wichtig ist, dass man eine längere Trocknungszeit einplant, die ist ja auf Ölbasis, angeblich 98% Leinöl, aber es ist doch anders, als wenn man mit Leinöl oder Firnis streicht. Mit der “Landhausfarbe” habe ich meine Fenster gestrichen und meine Haustüre, das ist über 20 Jahre her – die ist auch noch genauso wie sie damals war, keine Veränderung zu sehen! Wie geht das? Mein Nachbar hat seither schon dreimal mit Sikkens gestrichen und es blättert munter ab – manche lernen langsam, und manche lernen es nie 😉 ach ja diese Farben sind übrigens jeweils nur einmal aufgetragen worden, und nicht mit drei Anstrichen! Da lachen ja die Hühner, wenn ich sowas schon höre!
I’m working on one of my first major woodworking projects where I really care how it turns out. It’s S4S walnut, maple and cherry that’s going to be used as a floating wall shelf for my music CDs (I’m old school). A pain free simple finishing solution sounds a lot more appealing than trying to rig up a spray booth. If I use ArmRSeal and allow it to cure for a week after the final coat, will it be safe to put my CDs on it with their plastic cases? I’d like a semi glossy finish with a slight amber hue, tung oil is the only other thing I’ve considered using.
James, I just put together some butcher block countertops, I’ve been looking all over for the best finish for it, it’s a rental property and I want something that’s durable that doesn’t require a lot of maintenance and recoating. What would be your absolute number one go to for this? Would it still be the arm-r-seal? I have seen some articles where people are swearing by the waterlox sealer/finish followed with their second coat product. And then you have fiddi’s hard wax oil.. just wondering what you think since you’re arm-r- seal article is 4 years old if you would still go that way.
So, wooden countertops, even those made from a harder species like walnut, will dent and gouge over time, introducing ‘character’. And no finish will really harden them enough to prevent this, or even seal effectively from water in one of the two wettest rooms in the house, and even this water resistant seal has to be periodically re-applied. Got it. Granite or quartz it is….
I use to use oil – urethane by General Finishes; however, they don’t seem to make it any longer. They only make oil. Does anyone know where I might purchase the oil/uretane product currently? I don’t care if it is from General Finishes. They won’t answer to email and I can’t seem to loacte a phone number for them.
My finish sealers are limited where I live, Amazon will not ship general finishes oil base, they will the water base, is that a 2nd better alternative? I have locally minwax and verathane, but not sure about the quality compared to general finishes. Waterlox on amazon will not ship to me either, goiing to see if the company will. Its my first butcher block counter top on softer wood and it will be in commercial area, but layed back log cabin setting.
Hi Stumpy, I had a custom dining room table and the end result was pathetic. Since they are in Canada getting them to correct the issues doesn’t really work. The issue is that when they applied the oil, many areas kept soaking up the oil and they didn’t bother to keep applying. Then they applied wax and a ceramic liquid. The end result is areas of “dry” wood. I believe you are right that Arm-R-Seal is the way to go. My question is what is the smartest way to remove what they did and then apply Arm-R-Seal? Thanks for your time. Bill
I have GOT to find something that will protect my walnut from the grease and oil by the stove. Just ‘preventing splatters and drips’ isn’t working at all. I did a five year test run with plywood countertops before I dared use my precious walnut. The oils by the stove were the worst part. I just put in new plywood countertops with poly and I’ve got 2-3 years before the BIG kitchen remodel. So I have three years to find the absolute best finish for around the sink and by the stove. I’ve been protecting this walnut jealously for the last seven years. When the lumber shortages hit, I was hoarding them like a prepper hoards antibiotics. I’ve got one shot at this, as I’ll never be able to afford walnut lumber again. I cannot screw this up.
I have a walnut countertop in my kitchen with a sink. Builder of countertop told me to use Rubio Monocoat which I did and I HATE. unless I applied it wrong it has done nothing. The seam of where the planks meet is no longer smoother the seams when you run your hand across the grain of the seams feel bumpy at each seam in an area close to the sink where we wash dishes and dry them. We NEVER let the dry matt on there long and I am a crazy person about this counter. EVERYONE who enters knows that no water is to be left on this counter. But the finish is not lasting at all and it is super expensive. Countertop is only 1 year old. So I need another option. Someone else suggested Waterlox. But my question with the product you are speaking of is how do you apply this to a countertop that already has stuff on it? And there is NO WAY I can not use my counterotp for 30 days. Its in a working living kitchen. I can maybe go 2 weeks. But I can’t go 30 days. Would this product work? And how do I prep the countertop if it already has a sealer on it. Thanks
Those countertops look awesome. I picked up an old bowling alley, wanted to keep the rough (aged) finish. tried poly on it but with the rough surface it didn’t look right. sanded/started over and finished with shellac and then paste wax and looks much better. I have one half of the alley left for another project, this time it is a bar so I’d like a little more protection. Any thoughts on how this would look on a less than perfect finish?
Thanks James for another great article. I am working on a wooden counter top for a widow at my church. I am using hard maple, this is the first time I am using this type of wood for such a high traffic area. I have used Walnut for bar tops and such. But never hard maple. After putting this coat on the wood, should I put a wax coat over top? I am familiar with Osmo, seems to be good, but I want to try something new for this project. Any thoughts?
Thanks for getting back to me so quick on the water and drink glass stain. I’m going to attempt a kitchen counter including a kitchen sink. The wood I have chosen mostly because of Colour but it is extremely dense is Purple Hart . And don’t have a heated shop and live on the Northwest coast so I have many concerns 😟 LOL
I did a tub surround in Wenge. I was going to coat it in West Systems epoxy but that made the surface very dark like Ebony. I ended up using Safecoat gloss and Safecoat satin water-based polyurethane. I have found that no matter what the manufacture instructions from any H2O PU, application with foam brushes work the best at minimizing bubbles. I ended up applying 12 coats (admittedly I was done at 10 but the surface wasn’t blemish free until 12). It has been Installed 2 years now with no water stains, or blushes. One thing I did differently when finishing this piece was more sanding than I ever would have done in the past. I used the 3M sanding sheet that is elastic over felt pad and I blocked the surface until it was completely flat. This, in fact, took most of the first through third coats off. It was filling in the grain which made a great base for the next layers to build on. I usually think that it takes 3 coats of H20 PU to equal 1 coat of oil. I let it cure at least 12 hours but generally 24 between coats, then I left it for a week to harden. After that 0000 steel wool to break the sheen and the waxed with paste wax.
I have not used Arm-R-Seal yet, but plan to. I have been using Minwax and making my own wipe-on formulation and have been very happy with the results, but using 5-6 thin coats. One tip I have been employing is to knock off any dust nibs with a razor blade at a very slight angle to the surface. Scary at first but it works and I have yet to had any issues with it. Last time on mahogany I used the razor blade on my final coat and it was perfect. Have you used this?
I’m getting ready to finish a plaque I made for a gift. It’s made out of a nice piece of cherry wood. I routed out a strip on 1 side, and put a piece of walnut veneer in the strip. Sanded it down to flush and it is beautiful. I then used a wood burner to burn in a nice heartfelt saying. Once again, sanded over the burnt area to clean it up. I plan on using Waterlox as a coating. But have never used it before. I enjoyed your articles on Waterlox, and think it will really bring out the beauty of the cherry and walnut veneer. Question 1 (most importantly): Can Waterlox spontaneously combust? Question 2: Do you think the Waterlox will react well with the burnt wood writing? Question 3: My workshop is in my basement, and not ventilated at all. It’s pretty cold outside. Should I move up to the garage for applying the Waterlox? It will still be cold in the garage (around 50 degrees). I could always bring temp up in the garage, apply, then open up for ventilation afterwards. Thoughts?
As far as I can tell ArmRSeal is poly mixed w other resin/s, but overall what I read suggests mostly similar to poly in water resistance and abrasion etc, why do you say not as durable? Is that bc it’s wipe on so essentially diluted compared to other full strength poly? Or really different strength, durability, in terms of the other resins? Thanks for great vids!
I’m not going to be a cheerleader for Arm R Seal. I think it is only average. It tends to streak easily and runs if you are not careful. I have had good success with Minwax polyurethane. It dries faster and levels out better than Arm R Seal, at least in my experience. Which brands of finish are the polyurinate you are referring to in this article. They should be named so we can be aware of what to avoid. If you include Minwax within that grouping then I disagree wholeheartedly.
My (in process) workshop will have a bench top that wraps around a corner of the shop. It will be roughly 22FT L x 40″W. I am seeking support from seasoned pros on which type of wood (plywood) to use for the top. Because of the aesthetics of the shop, I would like very much to keep it as clean looking as possible. So I would also need to know how to protect this wood so that it would be highly resistant to scratches, water, etc. Don’t know if I can make scratch resistant, but would like to get as close to that as possible. This bench top will not be used for furniture or other large items, it will be used for smaller projects. So there won’t be excessive hammering, etc. on it. However, I would like to have it as strong as possible. The thickness I am planning on using is 3/4″. Any ideas on which wood type to use? I am aiming towards Birch, but some say that it’s hard to protect that surface, as it’s very porous. Any help would be great! Thank you!
Thanks for all the good advice. Would this work on a Pastry Board. I need to make a new one for a client and there are almost too many options. If I allow this to cure for 30 days, or completely, will it be a good choice. I have used different finishes in the past with okay results. I really wish to find a finish that will hold up to making bread and things like that. However, I would like something that would hold up as long as a sharp tool isn’t used to cut the dough.
Just a little tip. Be very careful with sugar on the counter top. Suppose you have several people that put sugar in their coffee in the morning and have a habit of spilling the sugar and then you have kids that leave wet dishes on the countertop where the sugar has been spilled, then you come home from work and go to tidy up and grab that cereal bowel that was set in the sugar wet and has now dried and you realize that it is glued to the counter top as it rips a chunk of wood away from the counter. No fun.
Hi James, question on applying Arm-R-Seal to cherry. The woodworking store that I purchased Arm-R-Seal also sold me Seal-A Cell clear. I have watched several articles on applying the Arm-R-Seal finish and nobody has mentioned the Seal-A-cell. What is the purpose of this extra application? Is it necessary? Thank you
People fuss too much to turn a 90 degree angle with two perfect match 45 degree cuts. Why? Just make the cuts at 45 and don’t worry if a little off, assemble slabs in place or on the bench. Set up straight edge along the 45 and run a router and bit (perfect website not all the way though) to inlay a strip of wood or contrast color material whatever.
I have used arm-r-seal satin on the last several project. I have had repeated issues with visible streaks after each coat. (streaks seem to be a slight difference in sheen, I can’t feel it or see them when looking straight down at the surface, but definitely visible in reflections on the surface) I have tried t-shirt cloth, synthetic rags and foam brush, I have tried light coats and heavy coats. can’t seem to shake the issue. I do stir the finish thoroughly each time and pour just enough in a plastic cup for the application. Did I get a bad gallon jug, or is there something different I should be doing?
@stumpynubs I remember perusal one of your articles, and I thought I remember you thinning oil based polyurethane with mineral sprits. I live in California and it’s getting increasingly difficult to obtain mineral spirits because of some state regulations. Is there an alternative to using mineral spirits to thin polyurethane?
I’ve watched this article several times in preparation to seal my butcher block counter tops with Arm R Seal. What I’m most hesitant about is that they have been treated several times over the past 4 years with Howard’s Butcher block conditioner. Really after about a month that stuff seems to be pretty ineffective at repelling water, but I have been reading some not so encouraging blogs about the difficulty in removing the conditioner before applying Arm R Seal. I’ve read that they might need many cleanings with Naptha, and even a lot of scraping to rid the wood of the oil and wax. But then another article said that the conditioner doesn’t even really penetrate that deeply. The guy at my woodworking shop, where I got the Arm R Seal seems to think that a good wiping with mineral spirits will do the trick. So…. I’ve started with the tops (I have 6 separate areas totaling 85 sq ft) that I’ve treated the least, and the longest ago. For two tops that I haven’t treated that much, I just sanded with 300 grit. A third one I sanded starting with 80 grit up to 300 grit, and then wiped it down with mineral spirits before applying the fist coat of Arm R Seal. It looked like raw wood after the sanding. I couldn’t feel any oiliness. That was just an hour ago, so fingers crossed! Any advice for proceeding with the counter around the sink where I have used the most conditioner, and the last treatment was about a month ago??? Please help!
OMG! I would never have considered wood for a kitchen counter top…..but that was an absolutely gorgeous addition to that kitchen. I have never used Arm-R-Seal. I’ve watched numerous articles espousing it’s virtues and ease of use, but this is the first one I’ve seen that’s going to “push me over the edge” to use it. I’m restoring a turn of the century walnut breakdown armoire…..I think Arm R Seal is going to be its finish. I just finished restoring a Gunn barrister bookcase (in mahogany and oak)….due to water damage, I had to restore the color with oil stain. Can Arm-R-Seal be applied over stain? As an aside, my best friend is Sailor, my Australian Shepherd. Was that an Aussie puppy in your article? Her/his colors (same as mine) accentuated that counter top perfectly!! Bravo-Zulu, Stumpy…..another great article!
3 questions please, but first, great article at the right time! Scenario… I am making a spalted maple live slab kitchen bar top and am struggling with how to finish it. Based on this article I assume this would be a good choice. Q#1. Is that true? My first thought was epoxy because of the “no wet worries” haha protection it provides and, well, my family isn’t the cleanest in the world. Q#2. For a kitchen bar top at home, what are the other “best” protective finishing options are there? Ones with a combo of natural look and protection. Q#3. Also, what should I do to the bottom of the slab? Any finish at all or sand and leave it bare?
Your countertops are lovely! We are waiting for our butcher blocks to arrive so we can begin the Armor Seal process. I wonder if you would tell me what router bits you used to create the edge profile? I quite like yours, but I have not yet found a bit or combination of bits to match what you did. My husband and I very much enjoy your articles. Very informative!
I’m going to redo our kitchen counters using hickory and remembered seeing your walnut tops which were absolutely, unbelievably, amazingly, stunningly beautiful. I was wondering what type of finish to apply so I naturally searched youtube for your tops and, voila! Thank you so much for all the help and advice. I am a subscriber but never seem to get any alerts. What is wrong?
IDK why everyone hates on poly. I used it on my hard maple butcher block work desk. I love it. The wood still dents when I use it, but it toughened up the face just enough so it takes a decent fuckup to cause a dent. Its also water proof as long as you don’t crack the surface. When you do, your left with beautiful streak stains that are left behind from normal use. I also like the fact that any burns left behind don’t boil and bubble, they just sorta burn.