Load-bearing and non-load-bearing walls are created when a house is built, with some being responsible for shouldering the structural weight. To determine if a wall is load-bearing, inspect your roof system and the direction of the ceiling joists. Most exterior walls are load-bearing to hold the weight of your home’s roof.
To check if a wall is load-bearing, refer to your home’s blueprints, which use an “S” symbol to indicate whether a wall is structural or load-bearing. If another wall or support structure is directly below a first-floor wall, it is likely a load-bearing wall. Consult a structural engineer before doing any demo work.
All exterior walls are load-bearing, but in houses constructed with trusses, most interior walls are not load-bearing. A load-bearing wall may be parallel to the longest dimension of the house, usually perpendicular to a beam. If there are load-bearing walls in rooms above being carried by existing walls, bath tubs, or fire places, consult a structural engineer before doing any demo work.
Based on the age of your house, most interior walls are load-bearing, supporting ceiling joists. Check if the wall is an external or internal wall, as most external walls will be load-bearing to hold the weight of your home’s roof. Middle walls are load-bearing, and large open living/dining spaces are achieved by a beam going over them. Floor joists should be perpendicular to them or end within the wall, indicating a load-bearing wall.
📹 How to Remove a Load-Bearing Wall | This Old House
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Are interior walls non load-bearing?
In the context of building construction, a non-load bearing wall is defined as a wall that does not support the weight of the structure, with the exception of the wall itself. Such walls are commonly found in interior walls, infill walls, curtain walls, and partition walls. It should be noted that this list is incomplete and that it can be improved by adding items that are currently missing.
How to tell if a wall is load-bearing in an old house?
To determine if a wall is load-bearing, first gather the original blueprints of the home. The blueprints will indicate which walls are load-bearing, with “S” markings indicating structural support. Look at the ceiling to identify any load-bearing beams running across the house, and any walls beneath them. If a load-bearing beam is not visible, it’s likely not supporting any weight. Assess the basement for steel beams or joists, and if a wall runs perpendicular to joists, it’s likely a load-bearing wall.
If the wall is parallel above the joists, it’s not. If a wall or beam is directly connected to the foundation, it’s a load-bearing wall. Consult a professional builder or engineer before removing a load-bearing wall, as they can help identify the type of wall and prevent structural instability, ceiling sagging, or collapse. Proper planning is crucial to avoid potential disasters such as structural instability, ceiling sagging, or collapse.
Are internal walls in a timber frame house load-bearing?
A timber frame house is a structure where the primary load-bearing structure is made of timber, consisting of beams and posts that support the entire home without interior load-bearing walls. This versatile material allows for numerous variations in design, allowing for open floor plans and adaptability to changing needs. Timber frames can be clad with various materials, such as wood, fibre-cement, brick, render, or stone.
In Ireland, rendered blockwork is popular for the external leaf, but alternative options like rendered cement fibreboard can provide the same aesthetic and performance. Moisture barriers are also incorporated within the wall structure. In summary, timber frames offer a versatile and customizable design solution for homes.
Are internal stud walls load-bearing?
Load-bearing walls are typically made of bricks or concrete blocks, while stud or partition walls made with plasterboard or lath and plaster are rarely load-bearing structures. However, stud walls can still strengthen a building, especially in older homes. To determine load-bearingness, check if the wall is perpendicular to or parallel to supporting floor joints or roof braces. Seek expert advice from a structural engineer, building contractor, or architect if in doubt, as failure to identify a load-bearing wall could lead to an unwanted collapse.
How thick are interior load-bearing walls?
Internal load-bearing walls are crucial in construction and renovation projects as they provide structural support and maintain the integrity of a building. A common standard thickness for brick walls is around 125mm (5 inches), while block walls have a thickness of 100mm (4 inches). Wall thickness ensures the walls can withstand the weight and pressure they will bear, preventing structural failure and ensuring the safety of the building and its occupants.
The dimensions and measurements of load-bearing walls are determined based on building codes, structural requirements, and engineering calculations, taking into account the specific load-bearing capacity needed for the wall to effectively support the structure.
Is it possible to have no internal load-bearing walls?
A house can have no interior load-bearing walls, but this requires careful planning and alternative structural support. Bungalows typically have no interior load-bearing walls, as roof trusses can span from external walls without requiring support mid-span. 2-storey houses typically have load-bearing walls on the ground floor to support the floor above. While a house typically consists of several rooms divided by interior walls, it is possible for a home to have no interior load-bearing walls at all.
Are internal house walls load-bearing?
To determine if an interior wall is load bearing, look at the attic or basement floor joists. Not all interior walls are load bearing, and the tips in the ‘how to tell a wall is load bearing’ section can help. Brick walls, often used externally to build homes, are load bearing, making it easier to determine if they are load bearing. In a UK bungalow, examining attic or basement floor joists can help.
Are upstairs walls load-bearing in the UK?
A load-bearing wall is a structure that supports the weight of a load, such as a car or truck. It is typically perpendicular to the floor joists, but if it runs at a 90-degree angle, it is likely load-bearing. A load-bearing wall runs straight through the home, has a wall directly above it, and is lined with OSB (oriented strand boards), a material used to strengthen structures. A foundation beneath the wall is also a sign of load-bearing. If there is another wall or support directly under the wall, it is likely load-bearing.
Stairs themselves cannot be load-bearing, but the walls surrounding them can. To determine if a wall is load-bearing, check for the signs mentioned above and have your house inspected by a professional.
How to tell if an internal wall is load-bearing in the UK?
An internal wall is considered load-bearing if it is oriented perpendicular to the joists, which is not typically the case when the wall is aligned parallel to the floor joists above. If the angle of inclination is 90 degrees, it is probable that the wall will be load-bearing.
Are interior walls non-load-bearing?
In the context of building construction, a non-load bearing wall is defined as a wall that does not support the weight of the structure, with the exception of the wall itself. Such walls are commonly found in interior walls, infill walls, curtain walls, and partition walls. It should be noted that this list is incomplete and that it can be improved by adding items that are currently missing.
📹 Science of Simple Spans of Floor Joists
Learn about simple spans of floor joists, including load, bearing, span, height and width of joists, bridge blocking, and the code.
Tommy, this article shows that you are truly a “house surgeon”. My da was a pipefitter, HVAC technician, and an all-around handy-man. He could do anything from masonry to glazing (including cooking the best breakfast and baking the best scones anyone has ever eaten. From New England, of course.) And he taught me all about load-bearing walls. I was born in Providence just after the Second Big War. He taught me all the things that you teach. That’s how I know you’re the real thing. You are the best This Old House craftsman ever.
You’re the shitz nitz man….mad respect. I don’t have a specific trade yet worked with different contractors but make it look like a walk on the park and with two students. Incredible and also thnk you for sharing your knowledge and giving everyone a shortcut to the knowing how to do things properly.
Hey all of you freaking experts that has negative things to say and to say how he did it wrong and say what you would do shut the heck up. He is just putting articles out there to help not to start a debate if you don’t like it or agree with it if it’s not your way that’s fine doesn’t mean it is wrong or he did something wrong. Get over yourselves. Yeah I know very blunt. Come on, LOL. we all do the best that we can including Good Old Tommy he is the professional that has a show after all remember that, which means he is obviously doing something right
I have an issue at my house. I’m a new home owner and noticed that the ceiling between the dining room and living room was sagged, went to the attic and found out there was 6×2 supporting the ceiling, they were attached to the rafters of the roof, there was no loam beam supporting ceiling. I reinforced the ceiling by installing more 6×2, but I’m concerned that I’m creating a bigger problem by just leaving them attached and putting more load to the rafters. Any thoughts on this…
The worst part of that sort of project is the floors…He didn’t show that headache…If you do this professionally you MUST discuss that with the client…I’ve seen some doosies on those transitions…You can look bad if the floors are an inch higher on the other side of the wall or one side is plywood the other side is old school subflooring… Piecing in hardwood can be a pain in the butt too…Steal it out of a closet and fill the closet in with new stuff…
One important thing that was missed, is transferring that new load point down THROUGH the floor and onto the main beam or footings underneath. It looked like the floor was hollow at that point with no joists or blocks underneath. At 2:51 you can clearly see the floor joists resting on the main beam. The studs he just removed would’ve been placed directly above those joists so there is solid bearing all the way down to the beam. He is now posting the new upper beam/header at a point BETWEEN the joists, which means he should cut blocks and tap them in the floor cavity to transfer that new load point down to the beam. Without that support, then that entire new beam is now non structural, and will start to sink into the floor because the only thing holding it up will be the floor boards alone.
All that original plaster remaining in the wall cavity? Much easier to demo wall to top of header, to btm of double plates or the entire wall. Also no mention of floor being concrete slab or joist above basement. The 2x laid flat on the ceiling? Would that hold the original ceiling load? Maybe not next time. Use a 5 ton jack and 4×4 post next time … those a-frames can easily burst. He does preform well though. Hmmm, no mention of general liability ins..
Informative article but partial… No mentioning of the bottom plates where the beam supporting studs were placed or no showing about securing of those studs. Also does not hurt if one gives a little info on the usage of 2×8 or 2×10 or when to use. Wrong way of liquid nail use, especially on load bearing beam.
How do you know what kind of wood you need to support the header, and then the stud size on the side? It sounded like they put 2 2x8s together for the header. Why not 1 2×6? I’m sure there are very good reasons, but how would you know? Would you have to hire a structural engineer? I’m guessing there are some solid rules of thumb in home construction. Does anyone know?
Hi Tom, Thanks for your articles they are really great help for DIY person like myself. I have an issue replacing my kitchen window with a wider one in my about 80 year old 2 story house. The new window is 4 foot high the sill has to clear the kitchen cabinets by doing so I will have only 5″ at the top to bottom of the joists instead of 8″ the allowances for the header. Is it possible to use a steel lintel for wood joists above my 67″ new window? If I’m not mistaken the load on the joists will be about 45lb/sft for first floor ceiling for two story residential house building. I also need to know how to fasten the lintel to the king and jack studs. Thanks again very kindly.
Im doing the same type of project, with plastered walls and all. The one thing i noticed (after having applied the new header, and having it push out), is that Tomy had removed the plaster keys on the inside of the walls, where the header would be. An extremely important peice of information thats needed! I’ve now damaged the walls, and have to do major repairs because this wasn’t pointed out, here. Could have been wrapping up the project. Now i have to spend more money and time repairing. Still love This Old House, and Tomy, just wish they wouldn’t have overlooked that; knowing the damage and extra work that would come from NOT doing that part.
My 1930 house has an original 9′ foot ceiling but years back for some reason the ceiling was dropped to 8′ by creating a false ceiling. I can’t put a temp wall up against this false ceiling to support the load while I remove load-bearing studs – there is no support in the false ceiling. The header will be 8 feet. What are my options? Do I have to cut an 8′ strip out of the false ceiling to allow the temp wall to reach up into the load-bearing section? (Gulp..)
Can any one pls help? I have to remove a load bearing wall of my ground floor of the 3 story building. The wall is raised till the second floor. The construction is 32 year old. The wall which is to be removed is of 12 ft in height. The lentile beam is at 6.5 ft and then a brick wall and finally the slab. Can any one suggest that is it right to remove the wall below the lentile? Is it goot to use ? The I type iron gardel ? Pls help
I wish the person who ran plumbing and ducting in my house watched these shows, but I don’t know if the show was on when they were doing it. My house is close to 100 years old and was moved to where it is now, but I doubt that it had running water or central heating when it was built. The reason I say that is because the floor joists were DANGEROUSLY notched to run the plumbing for the toilet and bathtub, and not only were load bearing walls modified and not repaired properly, but they also notched the only load bearing beam in the basement. I’ve already built a second load bearing beam as the first one was more than 14 feet from one edge wall on the joist run and the floor felt like a trampoline. I’m going to be removing a load bearing wall that had at least some of the studs cut off at the bottom for ducting and putting in a load bearing beam. I should probably do it soon though, as there is an opening for a pass through (none of the headers for the doors, windows, or pass through have any jack studs) that is forcing the floor down at the edge of the opening. There is also no return ducting anywhere in the house.
Im renovating upstairs and im removing the plaster and lath. After i rewire everything do i need to put some kind of plywood behind the 2x4s because there is nothing behind them and I want to put insulation in between the 2x4s. the only way I can explain it is, imagine you have a frame to a wall with nothing on either side and you want to put insulation and between the 2x4s before you put drywall on it, how does the backside need some kind of plywood to keep the insulation from falling out or do I just staple the insulation to the two by fours
I have an exterior wall that was used to add a “mother in-laws” quarter. so they added another room which is a living room next too it plus a master room after that. Does that mean I cannot open that exterior wall to connect it to the other room and make that “living quarters” part of the whole house? If I can open it, how much can I open it using this technique that Tom Silva is showing using the beam.
These quick episodes skip a lot like the fact that there’s an electrical wire/outlet in this wall. The full episode addresses these but these quick ones do not. What is going on with ToH? All their articles lately seem to be quick clips from full episodes and the full episodes aren’t on their article list anymore, does anyone know why?
You mean to tell me that he passed the load on to the beam through the glue/ adhesive that he put on the back of the plaster as there was no assurance that all the short vertical 2 by 4 above the beam were touching the beam. I would have cut holes on the side to ensure contact and even pre -load it a little. Also if that was a load bearing wall standing on five vertical members, what supported the beam at its ends should have made up for what he took out while the beam ends was somehow fixed and anchored in a better manner. He got away with it, because that was not really a high load bearing wall and cracks in the plaster above the beam would have formed.
I just recently bought a small one person home and I have an odd feeling you were vacuuming like crazy… afraid of the big” A” coming through the walls from attic? I’m curious cause I have found that stuff… a pitted out garage that is stacked with rail ties( previous owner worked on cars in it I assume) and also potential lead paint chips( lots) under my deck. Boy I wish there was a article on how to rectify those mind warping situations… cause with a bit of confidence…a nice deep lot, possibilities and the stars it may make it worth it. :))
I’ve been building for 30 + years and can honestly say, this is way Overkill. If DIYers just want to make a hole in their wall, JUST DO IT! Engineers over design buildings knowing DIYers will take out walls. No need for beams, temp walls or rerouting wires and plumbing. Just use a demo chain on your chainsaw and start cutting.
How come it is you don’t describe that nailing the jack stud & the king studs together is nailed up & down in a zigzag pattern with the end nails at the top & bottom be put side by side so it doesn’t twist & or need to use more nails than is necessary? Myself I use a piece of plywood spacer cut to match my header boards & sandwich it between them instead of the 1X2″ plywood used here as I feel it is stronger & I will also liquid nail them for a solid weld that no earth shaker is going to move it! To note when you use liquid nail the importance it is to squeeze it tight & pull the boards apart again & then squeeze them back together again activates the glue so to harden & bond it tight & in not doing so leaves it more flexible rubbery & moveable enough to slip the grip off. Not likely it will but still if an earthquake were to hit strong, who know’s what? It’s better to be safe than sorry. L.O.L