Radon fans are designed to reduce noise emissions, and there are various options available to silence the disruptive roar of radon fan noise. Actual radon fans have higher moisture resistance than traditional inline duct fans, which can impact noise later. Soil gas is very high in moisture content, and experts have found that if your radon fan is making a loud humming or whirring noise, it may be time for a replacement. Most fans last 5-10 years, with some making it up to 20 years. However, it’s not uncommon for them to get even louder.
High-suction radon fans, such as the RadonAway RP265, Fantech RN4, AMG Eagle, or Eagle Extreme, may produce even louder noise from your radon system. To make an informed decision about the top radon fans available, consider factors such as energy efficiency, noise reduction, installation ease, and durability. Radon mitigation fans are powered by water-hardened motorized impellers for water resistance and rated for outdoor use. However, sometimes you might hear the fan making noise, as the bearings that help lubricate the motion and reduce noise start to go bad.
Radon fans wear out over time, and noisy fans can indicate the system is not functioning correctly and impact the safety and effectiveness of the radon mitigation system. Fan systems installed outside should not be audible inside unless there is an adjacent window that the occupants occassionally open and spend time near. If your radon system is loud or can be heard on your deck or patio, consider adding a noise suppressor to help quiet it. Poor radon system design can lead to fan vibrations reverberating throughout your home and making it difficult to sleep.
📹 Radon Fan Noise
Is your radon fan getting loud? It could be time for a replacement. In this video, we demonstrate how old radon fans sound …
Can radon fan be outside?
It is a common practice among homeowners to neglect the maintenance of radon mitigation systems, including the implementation of regular testing and the utilisation of indoor radon fans. In accordance with US codes, fans must be situated outside the home’s thermal envelope, including attics, gables, and garages with no living spaces above. Failure to test and maintain these conditions can have lethal consequences.
How do I know if my radon fan is working?
A manometer is a U-shaped tube filled with fluid, usually red, blue, or green, that serves as a visual gauge to determine the running speed and static pressure of a radon fan. It is required for all active radon mitigation systems, except for passive radon reduction systems. The manometer is typically mounted to the radon vent pipe in the basement, closet, or garage. The suction from the fan draws fluid up on one side of the gauge, with a small piece of clear tubing connecting the top to a hole in the vent pipe. The other side is left open, similar to sucking on a straw. The manometer works by drawing fluid up on one side and returning it down when stopped.
Should radon fan run constantly?
Radon fans are designed to run 24/7, requiring continuous operation for proper functioning. They are different from other home mechanicals like furnaces or air conditioners, as they don’t require annual cleanings or tune-ups. The only moving part is the fan itself, which typically comes with a 5-year warranty against mechanical failure. To maintain the system, check the Manometer, or visual gauge, on the pipework where the fan is located, such as the basement or closet. The U-tube contains red or blue liquid, with an offset reading indicating a pressure reading. If the pressure reading is equal or zero, it indicates a problem.
If the fan isn’t working, contact a licensed professional to troubleshoot the system and make necessary repairs or replacements. A typical fan replacement costs $250-$400, depending on the area and fan type. Regular home testing every two years ensures low levels and proper operation of the system.
In summary, radon fans are essential for maintaining a safe and efficient home environment. Regular checks and maintenance can help ensure the system remains functional and safe for the entire family.
What is the life expectancy of a radon fan?
Radon reduction systems, similar to furnaces or chimneys, require regular maintenance to ensure proper functioning. Regularly checking warning devices and fans can help prevent radon buildup. Fan replacements can cost $200-$350, including parts and labor. Retesting your home at least every two years is recommended to maintain low radon levels. Checking contractor work is essential, as outlined in the Consumers Guide to Radon Reduction. The Consumers Guide to Radon Reduction provides tips on what to look for in contractors.
Do radon fans make noise?
Radon fans are crucial in radon remediation systems, helping to remove radon gas from a building’s foundation and expel it outside. However, they can become noisy over time due to factors such as age, improper installation, and improper ductwork connection. As the fan’s moving parts wear down and become loose, it may produce a rattling or humming noise, especially if it has been in use for years without maintenance. Poorly installed fans can also cause noise, as they may vibrate or rattle, and if the ductwork is not properly connected or sealed, it may cause a hissing or whistling noise.
Can you hear radon fan in the attic?
Radon systems can be quieter installed through the attic space, preventing noticeable noise. Most attic installations are routed through the garage, allowing the system performance gauge to be placed in the garage. This ensures the radon system is on and pulling the vacuum. Radon systems are more appealing to potential buyers due to their non-noticeable nature on the outside of the house. Additionally, having a vent stack opening above the roof allows the radon contractor to keep the exhaust away from doors, windows, and other openings, minimizing the risk of radon re-entry into the home.
How do you silence a radon fan?
Fan systems installed outside should not be audible inside unless there is an adjacent window that occupants frequently open. This noise comes from both airflow and the fan. A lower wattage fan is the best solution. If the noise transfer occurs through an open second floor window, it is likely due to piping airflow and exhaust noise. To reduce noise transmission, thicker walled PVC piping, especially foamcore, can be used. If the house has a single floor section, the system can be piped up through a closet to the attic, but avoid using a master bedroom closet. A hall closet is the best choice for minimal noise impact.
Should my radon fan run constantly?
Radon fans are designed to run 24/7, requiring continuous operation for proper functioning. They are different from other home mechanicals like furnaces or air conditioners, as they don’t require annual cleanings or tune-ups. The only moving part is the fan itself, which typically comes with a 5-year warranty against mechanical failure. To maintain the system, check the Manometer, or visual gauge, on the pipework where the fan is located, such as the basement or closet. The U-tube contains red or blue liquid, with an offset reading indicating a pressure reading. If the pressure reading is equal or zero, it indicates a problem.
If the fan isn’t working, contact a licensed professional to troubleshoot the system and make necessary repairs or replacements. A typical fan replacement costs $250-$400, depending on the area and fan type. Regular home testing every two years ensures low levels and proper operation of the system.
In summary, radon fans are essential for maintaining a safe and efficient home environment. Regular checks and maintenance can help ensure the system remains functional and safe for the entire family.
Where is the best place to put a radon fan?
Sub-slab depressurization pipes can be placed at the roof or ground level of a home, with fans placed in basements, garages, or attics. When placed inside the living space, the fan is usually vented sideways through the rim joist at ground level, while when outside, it is typically vented upwards above the roof. In Canadian climates, fans and pipes outside the living space can cause condensation and ice, damaging the fan and affecting the effectiveness of the radon-reduction system.
To reduce condensation problems, the fan should be placed indoors and the exhaust discharged from a shorter pipe near ground level at right angles to the wall, similar to power vented exhausts from combustion appliances.
Why can’t you put a radon fan in basement?
Radon gas leakage can cause serious problems in basements, as the radon fan’s function is to remove the gas from below and blow it outside. Without proper ventilation, the gas can be stuck inside, making it illegal and dangerous. Experts recommend installing radon mitigation systems in attics and garages for better ventilation. Radon control services prefer these areas because if the fan is not properly sealed, the leaking gas won’t contaminate the living space.
For radon mitigation professionals, contact Radon Control Services, a company with over 20 years of experience and high-quality services. They can provide advice and help eliminate radon-related problems, ensuring a safe and healthy living environment.
Is it OK to turn off radon fan?
Those who are concerned about radon levels should not be dissuaded from maintaining their current practices, as elevated levels can return quickly. A lock-friendly switch box is employed for external radon mitigation, particularly in the case of children who may inadvertently disengage the fan. The selection of a fan is dependent upon a number of factors, including the balance between vacuum pressure and air volume. This is influenced by a number of sub-slab conditions, as well as the sizes of any cavities present and the tightness of the slab.
📹 Do you need a noise suppressor?
Should you get a noise suppressor for your radon mitigation system? In this video, we demonstrate the difference it can make.
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My fan is making a low humming noise. Was hearing it for a couple weeks thru my bathroom vents upstairs. I didn’t know where it was coming from. Plumber came to my house and when he heard it he went outside and turned off the radon fan. That was making the noise. I’m gonna buy and replace the fan myself. 🙂
Great article. My 5 year old system is currently making a Bass beat sound. We just had heavy rain and the spring thaw. So the sump is running every 30-60 seconds. The Radon fan tube is making a sound like it is subwoofers in the back of a car – deep bass. I can see the manometer is bouncing in level, so I’m guessing there is so much ground water pressure and a reverse vacuum forming that it is causing back pressure on the Radon Mitigation fan and the deep bass sound from the tube. What are your thoughts?
What does it mean if its making a sqeauling noise one day, the next day the squeal is gone, but its making very loud noises, then the next day its quiet? My U tube shows its working properly- which I learned from your articles 😊❤ The noise thing had me concerned but now the noise is gone and Im confused. Its January in Iowa, no big snow this season yet. Its been unseasonably warm and we have had rain off/on. Thank you!!
Just got a system installed with a 170W fan (304 CFM at 0″ WC or 22 CFM at 4.75″ W.C.). Didn’t know enough about these systems going into this to question why I got such a beefy fan. But it’s audible from both the front and back yards and certainly the deck. Quiet enough from the nearest bedroom as long as the closet door is closed, but I’m sort of hoping I can slap a muffler onto the end of the pipe on the roof.
Are there fans that can be speed-controlled? Im thinking of a scenario where full flow may not be required to do adequate mitigation. Why not save on power and noise? Or is it true that more airflow always means lower radon? I wonder if there is no further radon reduction after a certain airflow is reached.
What about a article that demonstrates how the size of the pipe impacts the noise? As well as the number of turns/bends present creating turbulence? I’d like to run my radon mitigation up an interior wall and place the fan in the attic, but I’m concerned about how much noise it might make. I’m also trying to decide if I should use a 3″ pipe up the interior wall, or 2x 2″ pipes. A 3″ pipe would be tough to work with in my scenario.
Hey, I have a noise suppressor that I’m going to place above my fan with a 4″ pipe above the suppressor that will shoot through the roof. Both the suppressor and pipe are only about 2′ long. I was wondering if I need to worry about the foam inside the suppressor being affected by the elements at all.
We close on the purchase of our home in 7 days. They (SWAT RADON MITIGATION CO.) Just installed the system in the large basement. It is ran on the outside up past the top story roof (3rd level) by approximately 3 feet. It is well away from windows & openings. The fan unit they installed is a “RADONAWAY GX4” and is placed about 4 feet up from the ground. Looks to be a very good install, being that there was no way to run it internally, thru that many floors. It does however seem to be very powerful and with that ability, a bit noisy albeit on the outside. I’m in Pennsylvania so I will be insulating the exterior. Two questions: 1) Do you think they have it turned up (higher speed than normal) do to an attempt to bring the Pic level down from 67 quicker? And then adjust the flow upon safe level achievements? 2) once I insulate the exterior run, wouldn’t that in fact quiet the noise level? On a side note… do you have an opinion on whether this particular fan is of good quality and capable of having additional extraction/evacuation pipes ran to it from other areas in the large basement (900+ sqft)? I’ve seen several other fans and none of them were this large. I’m wondering what the electric bill will be for this also.
quick question for you guys… was perusal the article and considering putting a noise suppressor however the main issue that I am running into is that the existing radon fan (XR261) is causing some vibrations in the gutter pipe (thus causing the vibration to the house siding that can be felt inside). The fan doesn’t appear to be vibrating, however goes from a 6″ to 4″ PVC pipe (could 45) into a 3×4 reducer to a galvanized gutter pipe. The vibration seems to be right around the 4 to 3×4 reducer causing the gutter that runs up to the roof to vibrate. Not sure if putting a noise suppressor would do anything… been wondering if the 3×4 should just be replaced by a 4″ PVC instead to relieve some of the back pressure. Manometer reading sits right around 1.