A bad throttle body can cause various issues, including rough idle, rough acceleration, a check engine light, engine misfires, or stalling engines. These symptoms can range from low idle to a check engine light, making the vehicle feel unstable and causing fuel consumption to increase. Replacing the throttle body is usually cost-effective and can prevent more severe issues down the line.
Irregular Idling is one of the first signs of a failing throttle body, as it can cause interior lights to flicker. Check for loose ground wires and rule out the battery by attaching a multimeter to it while the car is running. There are five key signs of a failing throttle body:
Grease Buildup: Dirt and grime build up inside the housing, known as coking, causing an interruption in air-fuel flow.
Voltage Regulator: A faulty ignition switch can lead to intermittent power loss and cause flickering lights. Faulty sensors or sensor connections could trigger these issues.
Battery and Alternator: A bad ground could cause concern, but voltage surges can result from various factors, including a bad voltage regulator or an alternator. If the battery is bad and there’s a wiring issue, the interior (dash and dome) and exterior (headlights) may be pulsing while RPM surges up and down a couple hundred RPM.
In summary, recognizing and addressing these symptoms early can help prevent more severe issues down the line. It’s crucial to address any issues with the throttle body to ensure optimal performance and safety in your vehicle.
📹 Lightning Bolt Warning Light Showing Up On Dashboard How to Fix It for Dodge Chrysler Jeep etc.
In this video I will explain and tell you how to fix the lightning bolt warning light on the dashboard also known as throttle control …
Can a bad ground cause lights to flicker on a car?
Vehicle lights that flicker or dim due to a bad engine ground can be caused by low electrical power or loose wires in the vehicle’s electrical system. This can affect headlights, tail lights, brake lights, and dome lights. Other electrical components, such as radio, sound system, GPS navigation, heating and air conditioning, power window function, cruise control, horn, power steering, dashboard gauges, and windshield wipers, may also be affected.
What would cause dashboard lights to flicker?
Dashboard lights flickering while driving can be caused by a dying battery, which plays a crucial role in powering the car’s electrical system. If the battery is not functioning properly, the dash lights may flicker. It is recommended to have the battery tested at Firestone Complete Auto Care and install a new one if necessary. Flickering dash lights may also indicate an issue with the alternator, which distributes electricity throughout the car and recharges the battery while driving.
If the alternator is not functioning properly, it can affect all vehicle electronics. A professional technician at Firestone Complete Auto Care can determine if the alternator is the issue and if it needs repair or replacement. If the car battery is new, the alternator may be the cause of the flickering lights.
How do I stop my car lights from flickering?
Should your vehicle be exhibiting flickering behavior, it is probable that the source of the issue lies with a malfunctioning light switch, either the interior dimmer or the headlight switch. In some cases, replacing a worn switch may prove an effective solution, particularly in vehicles with high mileage or those of an older age.
Can a bad alternator cause my lights to flicker?
The headlights of your car can flicker due to a failing alternator, which can cause the vehicle’s electrical output to be affected, leading to a quick drain of the battery. If you find yourself in this situation, it’s crucial to have your alternator checked by a qualified technician. The battery light usually indicates the alternator is failing or charging the battery. Old or damaged headlight bulbs or lamps can also cause the headlights to flicker. To fix this, bring your vehicle to a local Tires Plus, where a technician can replace the old or damaged bulbs or lamps.
How do I stop my ceiling lights from flickering?
A flickering light can be caused by loose bulbs, power fluctuations, dimmer switch compatibility issues, and the dimmer itself. A loose bulb can cause intermittent contact between the bulb and socket, especially with screwed-in bulbs. To fix this, turn off the light switch and tighten the bulb. Power fluctuations can cause flickering in LED bulbs, which are sensitive to fluctuations in power supply. Upgrading to high-quality, modern bulbs can sometimes resolve flickering issues.
Dimmer switch compatibility issues can also cause flickering in fixtures connected to a dimmer switch. Not all light bulbs are compatible with all dimmer switches, and using the wrong type can lead to flickering. Therefore, it’s crucial to ensure proper dimmer compatibility to avoid flickering lights.
Can a bad meter cause lights to flicker?
If your home lights flicker, it may be due to a faulty meter box connection, which measures the current your home draws. This could cause unusual power outages and spikes in utility bills. It’s crucial not to attempt DIY repairs on electrical issues, as they can lead to injury, fire, or worsen the problem. Instead, call a professional for proper diagnosis and action. DIY repairs can be costly and potentially dangerous.
Should I worry if my lights flicker?
Flickering lights are not always alarming, but they can indicate serious electrical issues. Some issues, like loose bulbs, can be easily fixed, while others require professional attention. Our skilled electricians provide reliable lighting installation and repair services for homeowners, ensuring safe diagnosis and solving of issues. Delaying repairs can exacerbate the problem and create insurance coverage complications.
Insurance companies may not cover damages caused by worsening electrical problems over time, especially if DIY attempts are made. To ensure safety and compliance, book an appointment online to thoroughly check your electrical system.
Can faulty wiring cause flickering lights?
Faulty wiring, voltage issues, and faulty switches are common causes of flickering lights and electrical fires. These issues can be caused by incorrect installation, wear and tear, and age. Incorrect breakers, connectors, and loose connections can cause arcing or overheating. If loose connections are suspected, it’s important to call professionals to inspect the electrical system. Voltage fluctuations or drops can cause flickering lights, so check the circuit’s output between 115 and 125 and contact an electrician if significant voltage fluctuations occur. If a switch is loose or wiggling, it’s essential to repair or replace it.
Why do my interior house lights flicker?
Flickering lights in a house can be caused by outdated or loose connections, such as loose light bulbs, bent prongs, damaged wiring, and loose outlets. If these issues cannot be identified, it is essential to consult a professional licensed electrician. Loose connections may be in a switch box, light fixture, or outlet, potentially leading to electrical arcing, which can cause fire or electric shock.
If there is no pattern or flickering lights are not connected to any appliance, it may be a problem with the primary electrical cable connection. Do not attempt to diagnose or fix this issue yourself, as high voltage wires are involved.
Why are my cab lights flickering?
In the event that the vehicle battery is not the source of the flickering lights, it is possible that the issue lies with a faulty light bulb or a malfunctioning fuse. In the case of bulbs, replacement is a relatively straightforward process, with the option of upgrading to new LED bulbs. Conversely, a malfunctioning fuse may be indicative of a more complex underlying problem.
Can a bad fuse cause dash lights to flicker?
In the event that the vehicle’s battery is determined to be an unlikely source of the flickering lights, the possibility of a faulty bulb or a malfunctioning fuse must be considered. It is a relatively straightforward process to replace bulbs with more efficient LED bulbs. A malfunctioning fuse may be indicative of a more significant underlying issue, as fuses serve a crucial role in ensuring the safety of the electrical system.
📹 Bad Ground Connection On Cars-Meaning,Symptoms, Diagnosing and Solving The Problem
Hope the video helps, please like and subscribe to our channel!
Great content. But just so you know the Red bolt will come on when the Crankcase and camshaft sensors are not working either. You can change the throttle body and still have trouble with the code going away. I changed my throttle body and the camshaft sensors and still had the code. When I then changed the crankcase sensor it cleared. So just so you all do not go crazy trying to clear the code with just the throttle body swap out.
Thank you for this article, my father has lung issues and his jeep patriot broke down late in the evening. Just from talking to him over the phone of the issues, I was able to pinpoint it to these issues and drove out late evening to replace the bad TB. Tried relearning, resetting and disconnecting the battery, all did not work.
I don’t know much about vehicles but I had this issue (dodge dakota) a few months ago and had it fixed. Well the light is back on and earlier it didnt start the first few times, which is what happened the first time until it didnt start at all. I’m assuming thats going to happen the next time I try and start it. I know this is a hard question to ask online but any obvious reasons why it would go bad so shortly after being fixed? Faulty part, something else, etc? Also just had wheel bearings replaced and one is going bad. I’m so annoyed because TWO things I just had fixed already need to be replaced! Sorry for ranting… thanks for the good vid.
FYI … Mine was not the throttle body…. Check the codes first… Mine was throwing 7 different codes… one of them being the crankshaft sensor and that’s what my problem was. Every article I watched here said ” throttle body” and I wasted 300 bucks on one….. Oh well lesson learned. Check the codes.
I got the whole throttle body replaced after having an issue with the throttle body. The light kept coming on, tried cleaning it before replacing and it only stopped it for a week. Just went ahead and bought a knew one, now it comes on and flashes . It says it can take a while to relearn but I shouldn’t have it come on as often as it does . How do I fix this ?
2014 dodge journey, feels like the fuel pump is going, but I’m thinking it’s the TPS sensor. At idle when I stop, the idle on the rpm gauge will go up and down about the width of the needle. Acceleration is fine, but sometimes at cruising speed, it will surge, and goes away if I add more gas, or down shift to 5 gear. When climbing a hill, it’s worse. When I go through the mountains, 9/10 times, the lighting bolt comes on and goes away on a restart. I don’t get limp mode, but my engine temperature gauge stops working and I lose heat. Should I start with TPS sensor? 352,000km on it. Just had transmission done last year. Dealer replaced solenoid and some linkage stuff. New pan, filter, etc. last month I did oil cooler, starter, spark plugs, radiator, hoses, reservoir, air filter, thermostat. That’s why I thought it could be the fuel pump/filter?
2020 dodge charger scatpack had this pop up and my car jerked back and forth then went limp mode and gave me a code for P2101 thank you for this info will try cleaning the throttle body as ever since I took off my oil catch can due to it being illegal in California I’ve been having issues with my scatpack any scatpack owners should be wary of the sludge build up that happens in these cars not just the pistons/rings and lifters giving you lifter tick (Lucas injector cleaner helps with tick) but now I have this issue
This was a very useful article, thanks! As it turns out, for the past couple of weeks, for the first time, I’ve noticed this light coming on in my ’09 Grand Caravan (~150K mi.) But it’s behaving a bit differently than you describe in the article. It comes on at engine start and stays on (steady) for about five seconds, then goes off and never comes on again, even during a several hour drive. No check engine light, no acceleration issues, no more than the “usual” rough running. The manual says it should come on when the engine is started, but I know it’s never stayed on for this long before turning off. Do you think this is normal, or indicates a problem?
I’m back with an update for 2020 dodge charger scatpack check engine light on throttle body service and I have recalibrated the throttle body through the gas pedal and after taking out fuse for engine module and stability control fuse after putting in the fuses and starting up the car check engine light went away for now I still haven’t cleaned the throttle body and clean my air filter
My van didn’t do any of those. It ran just fine yesterday. Then, when i had to run somewhere last night, i put the key in and turned it, the lights and dash came on and the radio but wouldn’t even attempt to crank over. Just wouldn’t start. Not even when trying to jump it. Just shows the red lightning bolt. Anyone have any ideas?
This is happening on my son’s 13′ Jeep GC- It shuts off while he’s driving it and leaves him sitting (often times in very dangerous places. ) He used to be able to get out, with the key, then get back in and it would start back up, but the last few days it doesn’t seem to be working and he has to just sit for 10, 20+++ minutes and hope it starts back up. Any suggestions would be most appreciated!
Pretty sure it might have been mentioned here….I own a 2011 dodge avenger 2.4l. this fall started throwing lighting bolt and anti slip light with idle ramp up. I’ll I have been doing is shut off and crank up and it would be gone till next day. Has been getting worse. Now will go into limp mode sometimes on highway or engine just straight up dies noatter what speed. You have to pull over put in park. Shut key off and restart. Replaced throttle body and ambient air sensor in box. Still same problem. Seen someone somewhere mention after new intake was installed they never had problem again. So I grabbed brake cleaner. Started up and started spraying around intake. Everytime I would spray the last intake port on the right it would idle down. Pretty sure my intake is leaking. So I guess I need new intake or at least new orings installed on port. New part is roughly $220 if you do it yourself. You have to take it completely off to do oring gaskets anyway soight as well replace the whole thing in case there is a crack. 255k on my vehicle.
I just replaced throttle body and battery, my thermostat is bad but I didn’t have the money to get that yet. 08 v6 dodge ram. Fine for a week, now half the light flicker and it’ll turn over but dies down before starting. I’l just be left sitting there in the parking spot. Eventually i can turn the key and press on the gas here and there to get it to start, then i hurry home. I have no idea what to do.
I replaced the throttle body, and the MAP sensor because the throttle control and traction control lights keep coming on. After I replaced the throttle body I got a code to replace the MAP sensor. I replaced that also. The throttle body and traction control lights are still coming on. The codes from O’Reilly’s are still showing the MAP sensor needs to be replaced. Somebody told me that the traction control sensor might be dirty, and causing the problems. I do have a strut leaking hydraulic fluid. Do you think this could be causing the throttle body light to come on?
Looking for some help on my situation. I have a 2014 Dodge Journey and I recently replaced my throttle body with a Dorman brand. I have done the pedal reset, disconnecting the battery cables, and still it does not last more than a week before it goes right back into limp mode. Do I need to find someone who can program the new throttle body to my cars computer? I am stuck, and don’t feel confident driving my car without having to constantly reset it. Any help is greatly appreciated.
this is driving me bunkers with my jeep wrangler jk (2012 6 speed sports 2 doors). thank you so much now I have more of an idea to better tackle this annoying symbol. I subscribed and I will post if anything works or not,so maybe some of you can benefit, as we all have different issues with this symbol. If anyone here can help me out further with your solutions and ideas please let me know I would greatly appreciate you. again Thank you my friend! 2 thumbs up. merry Christmas and a happy prosperous new year to you, family and all in here. God bless!
thank you for being so thorough, and explicative. this happened on my 07 sahara unltd, just the way you described, and my mechanic replaced the pedal and throttle body. now, it idles at around 3K rpm when i turn it on, and only goes down to 800 when i depress the brake. as soon as i release the pressure on the brake, though, it ramps back up to 3K rpm. we didn’t know about resetting after installing the new throttle body. right now, we’re resetting the jeep’s computer. do you know if that’ll work as well?
Mine is a 2018 dodge journey with a push start ignition. My engine light came on a few days ago but turned itself off after a day or two. It came back on last night and when I left the store, it took 2 tries to start it. Then it was running poorly and sounded like it could die. It also had the electronic stability and throttle control lights came on. It wouldn’t go over 10 to 15 mph with the pedal to the floor. I got home and shut it off, then immediately started it again. It ran perfectly and all faults had cleared themselves. Throttle power was also back to normal. Any thoughts?