Installing a wall sleeve is essential for properly sealing the opening of a radiator before installing it, allowing for easy removal and installation of new units. Wall sleeves are plastic tubes that line the hole behind a ductless heat pump head to prevent air leakage and condensation. They are important for energy efficiency and can be installed using a Keystone 26 in. wall sleeve for through-the-wall air conditioners.
For an elevated finish to your room, covering radiator pipes is a must. Radiator pipe covers and sleeves can transform pipework from an eyesore to a charming detail after investing time and money on the perfect radiator and valves for your room. They function like a stylish metal glove, effortlessly fitting over your central heating.
Radiators are typically placed on external walls because they are colder and cool the air by warming that air. However, placing the radiator on an exterior wall may reduce its efficiency, as it has to work harder to counter the cold. Covering a radiator can also help reduce the volume of noise coming from it.
Putting a radiator on an internal wall opposite a solid external wall with single glazed windows can generate a ferocious draught. Radiator enclosures may decrease efficiency and increase fuel costs. Radiators have traditionally been placed on an exterior wall, typically below a window, and most people don’t consider moving them. A radiator cover will not block too much heat as long as it has gaps and slots for heat to escape and warm the air up through convection. If a radiator is placed on an outside wall, it is worth using insulated foil to prevent heat loss through the wall by conduction.
📹 Most DIYers Overlook this Pex Trick
Just a quick video demonstrating a trick to use with pex pipe near the end of a run when you need an easy 90-degree turn and …
What are the disadvantages of radiator covers?
Radiator covers offer some advantages, such as increased energy efficiency, but they can also block heat from the radiator, leading to higher heating bills. This is particularly true if the cover is made of non-conductive materials like MDF or plastic. Improper installation can also create fire hazards, so it’s crucial to ensure the cover is not too close to the radiator and allows enough heat to escape.
Additionally, the cover can make it difficult to clean the radiator, as dust or debris can reduce the efficiency of the heating system. Therefore, it’s essential to choose the right cover for your needs.
How much heat is lost using radiator covers?
Radiator covers can block varying amounts of heat depending on the material and design chosen. Some can block a significant amount of heat, while others do not. Radiator covers can be an effective solution for those considering underfloor heating, but they should not increase heating costs. To ensure optimal heat without extra costs, make the right choices when selecting a radiator cover. A radiator uses convection and radiation to create heat, so it’s essential to choose the right material and design.
What do you put on a wall with a radiator?
A radiator can be adorned with various decorative items, such as wooden shelves, console tables, or a console table. Wooden shelves, such as pine and birch, are ideal for radiator shelves as they provide a pretty surface area for displaying various items. Plants can also be placed on the shelf, provided they are watered regularly. MDF is also commonly used for radiator covers due to its natural insulating properties. Console tables can be placed above the radiator to give it a glow-up effect, such as coffee table books or textured planters.
Are radiator covers necessary?
Radiator covers are generally safe when made from the correct materials and installed properly. They allow heat inside to escape and add safety measures, especially for children or pets, by preventing accidental contact with the hot surface of the radiator. A well-built radiator cover is cost-effective and offers more benefits in terms of technology and aesthetics than a radiator cover. To improve energy efficiency, radiator covers should have vents or slots that allow heat to escape, an air gap between the radiator and cover, and some may even come with reflective backing for more efficient heat distribution. In summary, radiator covers are a useful safety measure for heating rooms and can be a cost-effective alternative to a new radiator.
Why do radiators go on outside walls?
Historically, radiators were placed in the coldest part of a room, the exterior wall, to eliminate cold draught. With double glazing now standard in homes, radiators can be placed anywhere. To maximize heat output, it is important to keep them away from furniture and clutter-free areas. Positioning radiators behind large items like sofas or cabinets restricts the flow of hot air around the room. Instead, keep the area surrounding the radiator clutter-free to allow heat to travel and permeate the room. This will ensure the best possible performance of your radiator.
Is a radiator guards necessary?
Radiator guards are essential accessories for KTM and Yamaha motorcycles, as they protect the radiator from potential damage. Radiators are crucial for maintaining the engine’s optimal temperature and are often overlooked in motorcycles. They are designed to withstand various terrains, including city streets and challenging off-road trails. However, these motorcycles are susceptible to various threats, such as rocks, sticks, mud, and insects, which can damage the delicate fins and tubes of the radiator.
A damaged radiator can lead to overheating issues, engine damage, and costly repairs. Radiator guards are made from durable materials like aluminum or stainless steel and act as a barrier, preventing foreign objects from making direct contact with the radiator.
Radiator guards are essential for KTM and Yamaha riders as they ensure the radiator’s efficiency and longevity, preventing overheating issues, engine damage, and costly repairs. By ensuring the radiator is protected, riders can enjoy the thrill of riding their motorcycles and enjoy the benefits of their motorcycles.
Do you have to attach a radiator cover to a wall?
Radiator covers come in flatpacks and must be assembled before being fixed in place. Some come with their own mounts, making it easy to attach them to the wall. Freestanding radiator covers, which slide into position after assembly, are simpler but less secure and not suitable for other uses like shelving or storage. Attaching a radiator cover to the wall may require more work initially but offers more options in the long run. Jali offers an extensive selection of radiator covers, including bespoke and made-to-measure options, to match your decor. Choose your design and speak to a team member to get yours ordered.
Do radiators need to be on external walls?
Radiators can be placed on exterior or interior walls to improve efficiency in cold areas. Placement on an interior wall can increase heat output due to insulation. In smaller rooms, radiators may be placed behind or next to a door, as they move heat around the room through convection. However, this depends on the temperature of the area the door connects to, as most lead into a cold hallway. Upgrading your radiators can help maintain efficiency and reduce the need for additional energy. Trads offers a range of beautiful cast iron and steel radiators to enhance your home’s aesthetics.
Do radiators have to have covers?
Homeware stores often sell unnecessary products, such as plastic flowers, sofa footrests, and radiator covers, to customers. These covers are designed to cover up a radiator and can be made from wood, metal, or other materials. They come in various shapes and sizes, from designer to bathroom, and can come with styles like lattice fronts. However, it is important to note that these covers are not necessarily more efficient or heating-effective than they may seem.
Some companies even promise better efficiency and heating, but this is not always the case. To understand the truth, it is essential to consider the science behind these heating accessories and their potential benefits.
How much heat is lost with a radiator cover?
Radiator covers can block varying amounts of heat depending on the material and design chosen. Some can block a significant amount of heat, while others do not. Radiator covers can be an effective solution for those considering underfloor heating, but they should not increase heating costs. To ensure optimal heat without extra costs, make the right choices when selecting a radiator cover. A radiator uses convection and radiation to create heat, so it’s essential to choose the right material and design.
What is the benefit of radiator guard?
Safety is a top priority, especially during winter months when radiators can reach scorching temperatures, posing a risk of burns and injuries. A well-placed radiator guard creates a protective barrier, reducing the chances of accidental burns and injuries. Radiators work by radiating heat into a room, which can be obstructed by furniture or curtains. Modern radiator guards allow heat to flow freely while providing a protective barrier, ensuring maximum benefit from the heating system.
Aesthetically, radiator guards come in various styles and finishes, allowing homeowners to choose one that complements their décor. They also protect the heating system from physical damage, such as bumps, scratches, and dents, extending its lifespan and avoiding potential repair or replacement costs.
Installing a radiator guard is a straightforward process, with most guards coming with user-friendly instructions and basic tools. Radiator guards also contribute to better indoor air quality by acting as a barrier against dust and debris that accumulate in the radiator. Compliance with building codes and safety regulations in specific settings, such as schools or healthcare facilities, is crucial to avoid fines and penalties.
In conclusion, installing a radiator guard offers numerous benefits, including safety, energy efficiency, aesthetics, and cost savings. Don’t hesitate to take proactive steps to ensure a warm, safe, and comfortable winter season.
📹 How to fix REALLY HEAVY things to walls? Meet the WALL BOLT!
Have you ever wondered how to attach REALLY heavy things to walls? Things like giant heavy radiators, huge TVs and the like?
Funny thing,, I did this a couple years back when running a water line before I had a new garage slab poured. I did however use 1-1/4 for a 3/4” pex run. I used pvc for the run, but used the electrical sweep for the ends. It is easier to push through if you do a 45 degree cut on the end of the pex and use dish soap.
I’m doing a project right now and was using those black 90 bends but every time I move down stream to work on another bend the torque would snap the black 90. I’ve busted like 4 of those things. Got so sick of it yesterday. Was thinking about using DWV 90 sweeps but this is more space saving. Thanks for this massive tip.
Another benefit…..let’s use an example. Code usually says that any tail-piece piping coming off a hot-water-tank relief valve….MUST maintain the valve diameter as part of the piping. However, what I often see is that a 3/4″ PEX comes off the thermal relief valve on the top of the tank….has a short horizontal run to the edge of the tank, and then uses a 3/4″ copper 90 degree PEX fitting that INSERTS into the PEX (for the remaining run down, alongside the tank to ground)…..which CONSIDERABLY reduces the internal diameter and is technically a code violation…..but it often passes. This method shown here in the vid maintains the ID of the PEX while making a 90 degree bend….NICE JOB !…👍
I cut out a 4x4x4 grey pvc box to make this elebow fit into and through while having pvc come up a wall from the dirt and penetrate the side of a brick wall. The box hid the 90 from being seen fully. Great protection going through brick. A swooping 90 isnt a elbow 90, i needed max pressure on the faucet 150′ away.
Marvelous! There is another trick that you can use for PVC pipe to make bends…What you have to do is fill the PVC pipe with sand. Then, slowly over low heat, heat up the PVC pipe and bend it in the shape you need. The sand will keep it from kinking. Then, dump out the sand and you have the perfect bend you want!
As a residential plumbing repair contractor I would recommend to avoid those. Even though the PEX manufacturers state that you can bend the pipe that much, I will tell you that 80% of PEX pipe leaks are on bends like that (with or without the support). It is too much stress on the pipe and over time it will weaken. It is probably cheaper to use the 90 anyway and then you will not have the stress.
This is a great tip. As a consulting engineer, contractor and architect, I’ll never install PEX and always recommend against it in projects that I’m consulting on. I had a 3/4″ PEX line come apart at a joint in the attic when I was out of town for two days. Copper will get small pinholes or mildly leaky cold joints…PEX gives full water pressure at full pipe volume. This caused almost $200,000 in damages. And the install was less than 6 months old. Stick with the tried and true. Don’t be lazy and do a good job.
Just wanted to thank you for your article. This was what pointed me in the right direction. Where I live, most of my walls are ultra dense, reinforced concrete – kinda stuff used in UK high rises in the 60’s. Anyways, I weight 130kgs and so bought a hefty pull up bar which is wall mounted with four M10 rawlbolts now. Never felt anything so solid. I then decided to get gymnastic rings and so SDS drilled into the ceiling, which is also this god-like super concrete (took ages) – installed M10 eyehook bolts and hung 200kg load carabiners and gym rings (straps and gym rings can hold 450kg each). I still was a bit concerned. Until I set one gym ring about 5 inches off the ground and put all my weight on it….for for 10 seconds I swung gently back and forth…all 130kgs of me. On ONE BOLT! Called RawlPlug UK to see if this was OK and Adrian laughed and said I could have 3 of me on one, and the carabiner and gym rings would give out before this single rawlbolt. If it wasn’t for your article I would have never been able to get myself the gear I need to get in shape at home. So a huge thank you. I have subbed. 🙂
Great article explaining how these bolts work, my question is; Is there a bolt with the same casing that once screwed in has a ‘special’ screw head which makes it hard for someone to just come along and unscrew and walk away with what it’s holding to the wall. I have some railings that are bolted into a brick wall and I’m trying to make it difficult for a chancer to just unscrew and walk off with them. Thanks in advance
Good article pal. For anyone looking to use these with only a standard masonry bit/hammer drill you can get away with using a bicycle pump and a needle tip (like you would use to pump up a football) to blow out the excess debris and dust. Messy but it certainly clears the cavity enough to allow a solid install.
Great tip about installing the bolts in the anchors onto the thing to be mounted and then inserting them into the drilled holes! I tried it by installing the anchors in the wall and then screwing the bolts in, but one of the bolts wouldn’t grip and then it was a nightmare trying to get the anchor out of the wall again. All done thanks to this great article, thanks!
Excellent article. Question: Wouldn’t a stud plus chemical anchor, like Eagle Plus (?) be a better option because removing a concrete anchor seems to usually crack masonry; chemical anchors seem to have much higher pull-out forces Not an expert! Just asking based on some research for a future project. Thanks!
i have used thease things for fixing many times, but if you use them near to a mortor joint in brickwork they will expand and fracture the brick,then not hold in place anymore . i found the best thing to use in almost all aplications are . screw bolts simply drill a hole then screw in to the hole as they self tap a thread as they go in there is no expansion in the fixing and are equaly as strong in use . the other plus side is if you remove the fixing at a later date it just leaves a small hole where the bolt was . far better than leaving a steal fixing in there whitch will rust and blow bricks out after years of being there .
Great article, thank you. I would be very grateful if you could advise me on the following. Could I use M6 Wall Bolts to fit 1600mm twin slot shelving rails to my concrete walls? The type of items I will be putting on the 15mm M.D.F shelving that is due to go on the twin slot rails and twin slot 370mm brackets may be heavy at times and heavier than normal wall plugs and screws can cope with. I am, however, concerned with the 25mm distance gap that is created between the wall and the twin slot rail. This being due to the u-bend design of twin slot rails which means the twin slot rail don’t fit flush up against the concrete wall. I am concerned that this will create a problem when it comes to tightening the M6 wall bolt screw head as I would imagine it needs to be tightened flush up against the wall to take and remain affixed. Failing being able to use M6 wall bolts for twin slot rails, what other type of anchor bolt could I use to fix twin slot rails to my concrete walls? Or could I place some kind of solid spacer between the 25mm void that the twin slot rail u-bend rail design creates and this in turn would then allow the M6 wall bolt to take and affix to the walls. I feel I would need M6 wall bolts that have a M6 screw that is a good bit longer than the actual bolt it fits into due to the 25mm gap that the twin slot rail creates. If I had M6 screws that were longer than the bolt they came with this would compensate for this 25mm gap and still allow, along with the assistance of the solid spacers, to cause the M6 wall bolt to tighten up against the wall.
I have purchased a piece of solid redwood Pine Size: 2400x600x27mm, with very large german steel brackets. My plan was to make this a shelf that would go on a plasterboard wall. Im sure theres a few studs behind it, ive had success with those american Snap Toggler on plasterboard. My question is how much weight can I or 2 studs support safely. Planing to abuse this shelf as i have no store room but 1 ridiculouly high wall next to a stair landing.
A useful wee tip if using expansion bolts/Rawlbolts on an EXTERNAL brick wall: If possible for the FIRST hole, drill into the MORTAR where THREE bricks intersect, and insert an 8 mm Rawlbolt. When this is tightened in the hole between the three bricks, an earthquake wouldn’t shift the fixing. Your other bolts can be drilled and inserted wherever suits.
Hi Andy, I have to agree with other comments made, I use concrete or “Lightning bolts” these days. I once tried to hang a heavy duty tv/satellite bracket on a new extension wall using rawl bolts. I drilled into the centre of the brick to find the bricks had frogs in them, the rawl bolts would not anchor and kept spinning. Ended up having to use chemical anchors instead after drilling many holes….. Rawl bolts are ok for drilling into concrete and dense concrete block, personally I wouldn’t use them on brickwork unless I was confident the bricks were solid. Thought I would share my experience, hope it helps!
Andy, I work in a part of the construction industry that everything is specd and checked by engineers, we fix anchors every day and pull test 10% of them. We haven’t used expansion bolts for 20 years they are far too unreliable, hit and miss we only use chemical anchors. Hilti hyt mostly but there are loads out there. I personally would advise against using expansion bolts in brick, they crack the brick.
In UAE here and living in Dubai from one of the old buildings…..Im planning to do this in my room to bolt a pull up bar. I need to drill 4 holes… 2 on each side. I think drilling is not an issue though not so sure if ill be hitting some cables or if its a solid block. Been checking articles on how to do this…
Hey! Thanks for that clear and instructive article! Could you help me with a specific problem? I want to pour a concrete slab – incorporating such wall bolts into it – rater than drilling holes later… Once the slab is solid – I want to remove the bolts from the housing (which should stay within the slab) and reinstate them to fasten my ‘load’ onto the slab. Do you think this could work? Thanks in advance!
Hi Andy, we use the m12 Fischer version of those at work I typically find the wall cracks before you get the correct torque on them, then it’s good old chemi fix time. Do you ever have a need to use hammer set fixings? They are great for reinforced concrete as your not drilling deep enough to hit the rebar. Great article
Most anchor bolts in USA that look like that bolt…have manufacturers notice that they are ONLY for solid concrete – not for bricks…… as they can crack brick/mortar in the walls…..so I used totally different type for exterior brick wall anchor bolts..which are ‘softer’ as they are encased in a plastic type shell.
Hi, I’ve watched some of the article clips on your youtube website and I have a question to ask regarding how to mount a wall bracket for a 75″ TV weighing approx. 35kg. The wall consists of hollow concrete blocks (178mm thick with a central hole 88mm wide). The wall is also covered by chipboard wood panels with a very small air gap between the wood and the blocks, and thus concealing the mortar joints of the concrete blocks. What kind of screws or anchor bolts would you suggest please? Thanks in advance.
I bought a pack of 25 Sleeve Anchor bolts off Amazon. They are fairly weak in their design and they’re not as heavy duty as those in this article. Mine are M6 x 60mm. Would they be ok to hold metal brackets onto a concrete wall?? I want to put up brackets on my shops concrete block wall for lumber storage. Would u think they might be strong enough.
Hey, great articles! Good to see some DIY info articles from the UK – subscribed! I had a quick question – wonder if you could help. I have a 2 post pergola I want to install (not more than say 200kg in total) and want to bolt down the 4×4 galvanised post bases into Indian sandstone that’s about 25mm thick. I think 100mm length bolts would be okay but I wasn’t sure how to determine how long it should be. I calculate 3mm for the post base, 25mm for the sandstone and that leaves about 70mm into the ground – is my thinking right? I also don’t know how deep the morter or cement mix is under the slabs so if I get a bolt too long, it might just hit soil so I’m thinking of lifting the slabs to pad it out.
What to do if my wall bolt is loose and turns with the screw when I try to mount? Is there any way to fix it without taking it out? As soon as the part at the front starts pulling back, the bolt climbs out and starts turning with the screw. Tried everything and super frustrated. Any tips/advice would be appreciated.
Nice article. Thanks for the content. One important consideration is the dia of the hole to be drilled. Of course it can’t be too small – the bolt wont go in – but if it is just enough then the fit will be stronger than if the hole is wider than just right. The dia mentioned here is 14mm for an M8 – is there a rule of thumb / specific calculation that is used?
Was looking at buying these screwfix.com/p/easyfix-shield-anchor-bolt-type-m10-x-108mm-5-pack/13317#product_additional_details_container to hang some really heavy iron gates, (100Kg+) But looking at the specs, it says bolt length of 108mm but a max fixing depth of 50mm!, so am I to only drill a 50mm hole, and have 58mm sticking out? It just seems wrong to me!
I used 4 M10 anchors to hang a satellite dish on a brick wall back when I bought my house back in 2005. I tried drilling the 16mm holes with a Power Craft impact drill (I was quite low on funds at the time), the plastic geabox broke halfway through the first hole. Luckily, the B&D replacement I got instead of a new PC was up to the task. Should I ever need to do something similar, I will be using my Bosch GBH 18V-20 hammer drill…
Thanks for the article! Can you tell me are these bolts okay for Cantilever brackets or pull out. I am going to be getting an LG C1 65 which is about 17kg in total. The wall mount I have bought is an EchoGear full motion tv bracket supports upto 50kg and upto 80inch tv’s. Onto a plastered wall with hardwall under the multi finish and then brick. The mount is an American brand but it only came with lag bolts and these plastic Fischer UX concrete anchors. Fischer said these are useless for a full motion mount…… Realistically, I need to mount it all before decorating, and then remove the bracket to get the perfect finish, rather than accidentally damaging the new paint work, can this be done? removing the bolts and then rescrew in later after painting
I know their convenience for DIY jobs and quick fixes, but they have been proven to damage/weaken concrete and blocks. In general mechanical expansion anchors are really recommended anymore. you can see how Sika demonstrate this in their article: youtube.com/watch?v=4IN5TjP9AXM So although they take more time to install properly, the best is to use chemical anchors such as their AnchorFix, or any similar product.
Hi there sorry to trouble you however I am looking for some advice. I am going to be building a window cannopy at the front of my house. And I have been instructed to fix some 6×2 timber to the house in order to take the weight of the cannopy and to fix it using resin and screwed rod. However as my house has wall cavities I can only insert the rods in 50mm. Should this be enough to hold the cannopy of is there any other fixing method I can use for example going through the cavity into the internal brickwork and use some other fixings?? Thanks
So I do have a question I’m going to mount a AC unit weighing roughly 200 pounds to the side of my house my neighbor made a mount for it. I want to go through block they are 8 in and Hollow it is designed so the wait will push back against the house holding itself basically. I have not asked Lowe’s or Home Depot figured I would research to figure out the best method. Any suggestions thank you
Hi. I bought some of the Fisher sleeve bolts to hold my sons pull up bar. I think I may have cocked it up. Referring to the detachable bit at the end of the bolt that should push the metal walls of the sleeve out so it holds in place. They look like a landing pod from the space shuttle; those. Prior to hammering the sleeve bolt into the wall, should I have tightened the bolt so that the end of the bolt was level with the end of the space shuttle capsule. I ask because I am turning the bolt but I don’t think the shuttle can be engaging because the bolt isn’t tightening. I didn’t check them before knocking them into the wall unfortunately. I really am crap at DIY. Also, what are the chances of me being able to get them out of the wall to try again ? Great article by the way but I think I’m doomed.
Hi, thank you for this. I am planning to fit a basketball hoop (rim, board and bracket) all weighing 17kg and going into a brick wall. I also plan on hanging a punching bag to the basket ball bracket so that it serves a dual purpose functionality. I know the bolts supplied with the basketball bracket will not suit my need. The bracket itself has four screws/positions. What spec bolts do you recommend for this job?
you gotta have trust in more than just the anchor(jacket & wedge) itself. used these for hanging up a hammock to the corner section of two walls. didn’t know the weight each unit could holds so used 4 anchor each side on hook brackets. 2 of the 8 the bolts snapped in two as I was putting them into the wall just using light hand force with the socket to draw the wedge up into the jacket.. so the anchor itself might be great and secure in the wall but sometimes the bolt is made of crap impurities. just something for you to think on next time. glad I went with 4 each side, better safe then sorry with a bump on the head when the hammock comes off of the wall also like in the article you can get the broken bolt screwed into wedge inside the jacket back out. use a narrower bolt and hammer the wedge (part thats being pulled into the casing jacket) back out the bottom, loosing it. then pincers to pull the housing back out of the drilled hole. now you have the same hole just put in a new plug and bolt.
I liked your explanation and demonstration, which was well executed. I would never have dreamed of using a 14 mm masonry bit without first using a smaller size bit! I think that type of fixing, in my experience, is a bit overkill for a TV bracket or even a large radiator. Ordinary RawlPlugs are quite strong enough. I have only ever needed to use wall bolts for fixing a catenary wire to walls (say between house and garage), where the weight of the wire and cable is not very large but the tension causes a very large pull on the wall anchors.
Was directed here from your latest article as I have sleeve anchors I want to remove. They are different than shown here though; rather than the cone shaped nut in the hole and a bolt doing the anchoring, these have a cone headed bolt from inside the hole with a nut doing the anchoring. I suppose it’s not too different; try to relieve the expansion then pull on the sleeve. If it doesn’t work I’ll just have to cut of the bolt and hopefully be able to pound it to below flush. Fortunately they are high on an exterior wall so the area won’t come under close scrutiny.
Ur all spot on here brother, what I do is put the rawl bolt on whatever I’m mounting and then turn the bolt on fully till it just starts pulling the expander nut into the bolt, then simply push the object I’m mounting till it’s flush to the wall and tighten, your way is close to how I do it exept ur bolt still has a gap and that can cause the expander nut to push out of the bolt past the stops before its completely in the hole, if there is a gap between the object and the wall for some reason then just loosen a bit and tap with a hammer till the collar is in the hole before tightening, Hassel free 👍
One problem I often find with rawlbolts is wretched brick dust, or stone or concrete dust getting in the threads and jamming the thing, it’s a right pain in the butt and often ruins the fixing so it has to be torn out and replaced. So make sure you thoroughly hoover out all the dust first, which is easier said than done, as you need an attachment for the cleaner which will fit in the hole. And putting some copper grease on the threads sometimes helps too. And of course DO make sure the wall can take the load first, especially if it’s seriously load bearing! A lot of older houses for instance were not built to have things like big heavy radiators fitted to them and sometimes won’t safely hold such a weight, especially when they’re supporting upper floors. I’ve got that situation in my home now as I’m fitting central heating and I’ve got to be real careful where I hang the rads.
Very in-depth! Thanks so much! I hope to affix a collapsible work desk to my stone wall here. It should be about 70 cm (approx 27.5 inch) deep and be able to carry my 10 kg. sewing machine with ease and collapse at the end of the day to save some space – a bunch of bolts should do it! I’m especially happy you showed how to remove them as I live in a rental… Can’t leave goofy metal stuff in the wall for future tenants to deal with now can I?
Before you dig the hole inside you might wanna set things the way suits you when you decide one day to take it off the flood completely, how about setting the depth of the hole to contain the whole thing including the screw head.. so when you lay down a carpet on the floor it goes completely flat.., but that will probably require you to dig an extra bulky hole that contain a 5 mm thick hexagonal shape (screw’s head), and that might require then buying a new attachment for your drill tool
I was under the impression that these wedge and bolt type fixings should only be used in concrete as they can easily crack the brick or block due to the expansion,especially if the hole is drilled near to the edge.When the wall is plastered,you have no way of knowing where the edges of the brick or block are. The same guy in the specialist fixings shop told me that for heavy duty fixing into brick e.g. fixing timber ledges to hang floor joists from,the only safe way is to use threaded bar and 2 part polyester resin as it does not rely on wedge expansion or on being in the heart of the brick..
Great article. Can I ask what you would do if you drilled the hole too large by mistake? Is there a way to remedy this other than drilling a different hole elsewhere the correct size. I have a fixing for a washing line that my large dog keeps pulling on the wire and yanking it out. I’ve tried filling the hole with glue before putting the plug in but it’s not working.
I had the strangest experience with the FAZ II 8/100 from Fischer: after inserting it in the floor and starting tightening the nut on top to secure it, I saw that the shaft kept spinning and was not fixed in the floor as one would normally expect. It happened to 1 out of 3 anchors I have tested. The distance I used was the recommended minimum of 40mm including the extra depth since I wanted to test the worst case scenario. Even if it was spinning I was able to secure the nut and tighten the bolt after some time and at the end it was firmly planted in the floor so my concerns were gone. I just found it weird at first. Did it also happen to one of you guys / gals?
Only good for concrete. I use these to hang kitchen cabinets to the wall heavy tv’s with ceiling mount, etc. The much more reliable type is the stud type. The one which has the tapered screw head from the backside and a nut on the outside side. The deal with those is that in an overhead situation the mount is fixed already with the nut and already has full strength. Much safer to align the piece to some studs and hang a nut a couple of threads an let it rest than the screw type shown here where you need to align and place a screw and find that the sleeve has slipped out before its tighten. The minor down side is the nut that usually sits proud on the concrete.. but this easily avoided by making a very shallow counterbore to make the nut sit below surface. Another minor downside is the long stud sticking out making you reach a box-end wrench or a deep socket or even open ended. and when the nut is below surface only deep sockets work (there are some tube wrenches really deep)
Great article thank you. Any idea how to take out the small nut from the hole? I made a mistake of taking the screw out first, put the fastener in and ruined it by hammering it in. Managed to take the piece out but the small nut at the bottom fell inside the hole. Should’ve watched your article first. I’m installing a gate motor
Hi there here is my dilemma. I mounted a 300Kg lathe to the floor of my double brickwall garage away from the wall. I made a heavy duty swivel bracket to pull tools and gear always used towards me setting up the lathe, when finished I push it back towards the wall etc. 1-The bracket I want to fasten to the wall is 290mm high, 150mm wide and 4mm thick steel plate. I plan on drilling 6 holes into this and corresponding 6 holes in wall about my chest hight from the floor. 2-The 1st section thats going to swing from this bracket is 420mm long. 3-The next section is 260mm long. 4-Then an end tray 300mm long is mounted swingable as the others to the last section. Lets sat the total weight of this contraption is 30Kg rather more than less. Now here is my question:Will this bracket with the 6 expantion bolts in wall be able to support this extending contraption without pulling out of the wall, I cannot find info on how large this plate must be. This wall is the strong brick type as you decribed. The extention this ends up being 420mm+260mm+300mm to its furthest point, I pull the handle from. I know if I use steel tubing, mount that to the wall and to the floor, then bolt or weld the bracket to that, that this method WILL work, but will I get away with method suggested above.