Indoor humidity is crucial for protecting against mold and disease, and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) recommends a range of 30-60 RH. Most people feel comfortable with a humidity level between 30 to 60 percent, but it’s best to have an indoor humidity level between 30 to 50 percent. If the humidity is higher than 55%, it can lead to health problems and costly repairs.
The ideal indoor humidity level depends on the time of year and personal preferences. The ideal atmosphere is below 50 average humidity, which helps avoid indoor mold and mildew growth, skin and allergy flare-ups, and poor air quality overall. Aim for 30-60 RH, as long as you don’t go over 60. If you’re sensitive to moisture levels, go for 30-50. This is the ideal range not only for humans but also for most pets and plants.
Research shows that the ideal relative humidity for your home is between 40-60 RH. However, to discourage mold growth and spread, levels should be kept between 30 and 50 RH. The 30 to 50 percent range is standard, and a level between 30 and 40% humidity is typically ideal for keeping your home warm and comfortable in the winter without leaving condensation on the surfaces. It is recommended to keep indoor relative humidity between 30 to 50%, if possible. Most people find a relative humidity level between 30 and 50 to be most comfortable. To achieve desired humidity levels, many homeowners install humidity control devices.
📹 What’s the Best Humidity Level for Your Home?
What’s the ideal humidity level for your house? And how can you maintain this humidity level throughout the year? We’ll both …
Is 50% humidity indoors good?
Indoor humidity is a crucial factor in maintaining a healthy home, as it affects health, sleep, and structural integrity. The U. S. Environmental Protection Agency recommends a relative humidity of below 60 and between 30 and 50 ideally. However, achieving this can be challenging. Low indoor humidity levels can be dangerous, as they can be caused by colder weather, heating systems, or a drier climate. Split AC installation costs can range from $3, 700 to $11, 000.
Low indoor humidity can be dangerous, as it can lead to increased moisture loss from the air, which can be harmful. To achieve an ideal indoor relative humidity, it is essential to monitor and adjust humidity levels as needed.
What humidity does mold grow in?
Reducing humidity below 30 is not recommended as it can cause health problems, dry eyes, nose, and skin, exacerbating lung and skin conditions. It can also dry out wood flooring, furniture, and make homes prone to static shocks. High humidity is necessary for mold growth, but it doesn’t cause it itself. Mold spores are present in every home, and reducing mold growth can be achieved by spilling mold spores, cleaning surfaces, and using air purifiers to catch them. While some commercial or healthcare settings can eliminate mold due to high humidity levels, this is typically not possible or affordable in a home.
What temperature should I keep my house to prevent mold?
To prevent mold growth, it is essential to control the temperature within your home, aiming for a range of 77-86 degrees Fahrenheit. During summer months, keep the temperature lower, setting the thermostat to the low 70s, and be aware of your home’s temperature, even when away. Keep air circulating to prevent stagnant air from breeding mold, keeping all vents open even if not frequently used. Despite the humid summer months, maintaining a clean home, controlling humidity, maintaining temperature, and keeping the air circulating are all effective ways to protect your home from mold.
What is normal indoor humidity with air conditioning?
A home’s humidity level should be between 30 and 50, with humidity increasing as temperature rises and dropping as it falls. Even with an air conditioner running, humidity levels should not dip below 30. To manage humidity levels, homeowners should pair their HVAC system with powerful humidifiers and dehumidifiers. Additionally, having the correct air conditioner, such as mini-split systems, which consist of indoor and outdoor units, can help maintain healthy air moisture levels. It is essential to avoid over-reliance on heating and air conditioning systems, as they can quickly raise or lower humidity levels.
What is the best humidity for breathing problems?
Healthy humidity is between 30-60 percent, with indoor humidity ideally between 30-50 percent. Low humidity can lead to dry air, increasing the risk of catching airborne viruses like the flu, exacerbate eczema, and cause dry skin. High humidity can also trigger asthma and allergy, as dust mites and mold thrive in dry conditions. Therefore, it’s crucial to maintain a comfortable indoor humidity level to prevent these health issues.
At what humidity should I use a dehumidifier?
In order to operate a manually-controlled dehumidifier in an optimal manner, it is recommended that the humidity level be set between 30 and 50%. This will help to prevent the occurrence of dampness and mold, as well as dryness and bacteria. The dehumidifier functions by converting moisture-laden air into condensation, which is then collected in a container that requires daily emptying. This guarantees that the dehumidifier is consistently operating at its optimal level. It is recommended that the Ebac dehumidifier be used in conjunction with the air-drying of laundry.
What is the best humidity level for sleeping when sick?
The optimal indoor air humidity range is 40-60 RH, which has been empirically validated as an effective strategy for mitigating airborne influenza infections. This level of humidity shortens the time the virus remains infectious, which is crucial for maintaining health and wellbeing. A substantial body of research attests to the significance of maintaining optimal indoor humidity levels in the prevention of airborne infections.
What is the best humidity level for sinus problems?
Humidity levels in a home should be between 30 and 50 percent, as too low or too high can cause issues such as dry skin, irritation to the nose and throat, and eye itching. High humidity can make the home feel stuffy and cause condensation, which can trigger harmful bacteria, dust mites, and molds, causing breathing problems and allergy and asthma flare-ups. To measure humidity, use a hygrometer, a thermometer-like device that measures the amount of moisture in the air.
Buying a humidifier with a built-in hygrometer, such as a humidistat, helps maintain a healthy humidity range. However, if you or your child has asthma or allergies, consult your healthcare provider before using a humidifier, as there are risks associated with using one.
What is the best AC setting to dehumidify?
Dry mode is a great option for cooling down an AC unit in humid weather, as it uses less energy and reduces your monthly energy bill. This mode also promotes a healthier environment, as dry air is generally better than humid air, which can cause air quality triggers like mold, mildew, and dust mites, which can lead to allergies. Using dry mode can help avoid these unpleasant symptoms, ensuring a more comfortable and healthy living environment. In summary, dry mode is a more efficient and cost-effective way to cool down in humid weather.
What should indoor humidity be?
Research indicates that the ideal relative humidity for a home is 40-60%, but to prevent mold growth, it should be kept below 50. Adjust this to match comfort levels. Outdoor absolute humidity levels should also be considered, as they change with temperature and season. A scale to understand ideal humidity levels is provided: indoor humidity levels should not exceed 50°F for outdoor temperatures over 50°F, 40°F for temperatures over 20°F, 35°F for temperatures between 10°F and 20°F, 30°F for temperatures between 0°F and 10°F, 25°F for temperatures between -10°F and 0°F, 20°F for temperatures between -20°F and -10°F, and 15°F or lower.
What is the healthiest humidity level for a home?
A home’s humidity level is crucial for maintaining warmth and comfort in winter, with a level between 30-40%. In summer, the humidity level can be higher, between 50-60%. It is essential to know your home’s humidity level and identify any signs of trouble. A high humidity level can cause condensation on windows and can lead to mold growth. It is essential to maintain a consistent humidity level to prevent mold growth and other potential issues.
📹 My House has High Humidity. How Do I Fix It?
I have a lot of calls every year for high humidity The answer is sometimes very simple There are some preventative actions that …
The real problem is dealing a idiots who thinks having a window opened after it rained where the humidity levels are about 75% to 95% with no exit ventilation is a great idea somehow.🤦 As for having a AC unit which is a no go because the window in the room isn’t made for AC units and there is only one outlet that on the other side of the room about 7 feet away from the window as well my bed is on the window side so using a indoor AC unit wouldn’t work since I don’t have any other area to move the bed without being in the way.
Thanks for helping educate us. I’m currently dealing with high humidity in the home and our HVAC company can’t figure out what’s wrong. I’m frustrated and beyond patience with this issue. I spent so much money on a brand new home and I feel miserable inside it. I’m going to check if the unit is level tomorrow and see if it’s sized correctly, per your suggestions. I’m damn near ready to hire an inspector to help me.
Humidity is something I never really thought about until lately. Now, I”m like a walking hygrometer. I’m rather obsessed with keeping my indoor air climate controlled within 35 – 49% humidity and temperature at or below 68F (60 to 68 is good). How do people tolerate higher temp’s and humidity? I think half the time they’re not aware. Well, not good. That leads to mold, mildew, and ruined things. Don’t store anything you want to keep in a structure that isn’t climate controlled, especially electronics, photography equipment, and many other things.
If you are using the cool mode on your AC during high humidity then change the mode to DRY. DRY mode still blows out cool air. DRY mode sucks in your humid air and then separates the moisture from the humid air and then blows out cool dry air in your house thus getting rid of your humidity. It’s also known that using DRY mode instead of COOL mode reduces your power by around 50% depending on what you’re charged for electricity. This is information for those that don’t know about it.
I have a dug out basement and no floor drain so no point in setting up a dehumidifier in basement i cant suck out the earth until its dry. Legit the dirt is 2 feet from my floor minus the spot for my panel water tank and furnace. I seen two dryer vent holes one at front of the house one at back i plugged these with spray foam. Also i do have vapour barrier but in my situation i dont see it doing much house is at 76 right now. But havent turned on my ac yet it gets stinky in my house the vents reak like basement until i turn on ac fml😂 also in summer my ducts sweat from ac but leaks onto the dirt any suggestions 🙏
Fix it with AC if you don’t have AC crack the windows in every room and run a desk fan ceiling fan floor fan whatever you got 24/7. It may seem strange to keep a fan on 24/7 but the fans are helping move the air and the windows being open help the fans push the hot humid air out. Leave the windows open at night with the fans to bring in fresh air. The air moment is important you can also buy a humidity gauge that reads the moisture in the air 30% to 50% is ideal keep it between there. Lastly you can buy a dehumidifier and dry the air but those things can be annoying because you’ll have to constantly dump the water bin.
Hey Teddy I’m in one of those high apartment complex buildings, I’m on the 2nd floor of a 4 story. It’s 35 degrees outside(as of January 26,) When I turn my thermostat off, My apartment will go up to 79-84 degrees. The humidity is 45% on the thermostat. But when I open my sliding glass door in only goes down about 5-8 degrees. When I open the front door, it goes down another 2 degrees. The front door leads into a hallway. And the hallway(indoor hallway) goes to a parking garage.
dank basement get calcium chloride flake, take a 3 gallon pail drill small holes in bottom,add 1.5 gallon of flakes about 3 lbs, set the 3 gallon pail, into 5 gallon pail, no holes, the flakes pull water,dank smell in, and water drops to bottom, separate pails, 1 x week, drain bottom pail, replace to keep pulling water, when flakes break down, add new flakes, no electricity, works good, I keep small one in my truck, keeps air in cab, clean and dry, yer welcome
Nice article. Don’t think this was mentioned: Low refrigerant or restriction in expansion valve (or other metering device) on evaporator coil can cause evaporator coil temperature to fall below 32 resulting in icing of the coil. Blowing air across the coil in this situation results in humid air. I have had this happen to me in two different units. Both were 90’s vintage (R22), so can’t answer to newer units, but expect could still be possible. Of course measuring low side pressure gives good idea of coil temperature…
Hello! We have excessive condensation on the inside of our windows during the winter months (Missouri). Newish build. Spray foam insulation (open cell), metal siding and roofing. Half crawlspace (not encapsulated, no crawlspace vents installed), half basement. Humidity reaches 70% at times, but lives around mid 60s all year round. HELP! We also run a dehumidifier (stand alone; not in conjunction with HVAC system) in the basement but it doesn’t seem to reduce the humidity.
I got my crawl space encapsulated about a year ago, verified I have the right size AC unit, and my humidity level is still high upstairs, (60% to 70%) mainly during the spring & fall when I don’t usually run the AC. I’m in Virginia where temp are pretty mild. I had my house checked for piping leaks and was told my attic looks ok, however it is a vented attic with a electric fan. Any ideas on what can be the cause of the high indoor humidity?
I got one for you. Put a shutoff valve on the drain, close to the pan. Then install a shrader valve downstream from the valve. Now, you can shut the valve off, hook up an air compressor, and shoot the junk out of the line. Obviously don’t use super high psi. Works fantastic. I do it as normal maintenance. Also, the T to add bleach is a good idea and I do that as well.
Very helpful and informative article. Thank you very much. I have a home with a finished basement and separate HVAC units for the first floor and basement level. I recently had to replace the first floor unit and purchased a Daiken Fit variable speed unit. It has a very sophisticated and expensive Smart Thermostat which includes a dehumidifying element. I also have an annual service contract on my HVAC system units and switched my contract to the company who sold and installed my Daiken unit. Their inspector recently performed the summer inspection of our home and advised me that our humidity levels are too high in both the first floor and basement levels. He tested both areas with a humidity tester and showed me the results which were between 50-60% on both levels. He told me that we dont have a problem yet but should consider a whole house dehumidifier which costs $4500. This home is 10 years old and has never had any indication of a possible mold problem. I am not willing to go to a whole house humidifier at this time. The technician turned on an element of our highly sophisticated ist floor thermostat which dehumidifies the first floor area as part of how it functions. Unfortunately, that has resulted in the average temp in our first floor being too COLD most of the time this summer. perusal your article you say that high humidity is in the area of 80% or above unless i misunderstood. I dont really think i have a humidity problem, but the tech also recommended i set the lower level thermostat to 72 degrees vs the 76 degrees I usually run it at, and I frequently just turn the downstairs thermostat OFF which the technician told me is a bad idea given my humidity level downstairs.
Thank you for this information! I recently bought a new construction home (1,400 sqft) and now that it’s warmer weather my house has been really humid. Bought a humidity gauge and it’s reading between 62%-65%. My AC comes on in short bursts only. I also checked my unit and it’s a 3.5 ton cooling capacity.
1.——— Had the a/c off for a few days and noticed mold spots on my kitchen cabinets since then ive turned the a/c back on. currently 69% humidity in my house florida humidity outside at like 64% 2.——— house: -small attic spray foam insulated -mini split a/c rated for my 400 square foot home (my home requires 10,000 BTU and My mini split is rated for 9,000 -36,000 BTU) -foam insulated concrete walls -tight foam window seal -I believe it is a high efficient sealed home -run the a/c at 76 degrees 3.———– ***Bought a dehumidifier today and then watched your article suggesting this. Hope it helps. when you live in Florida with high humidity is the only solution a dehumidifier??
I have a strange problem here in Delaware. I had up to 7 layers of roof on my house for years. Before my roof was replaced recently with a new EPDM with vapor barrier for “flat” roofs (but it has a pitch), humidity rarely reached 70% – but now over night in the summer, it regularly goes up to and over 75%. It is worrying, but I had the problem anyway; it was tough even with a dehumidifier and the A/C system to keep the humidity in the house at or below 60% even before the roof replacement. I can use a standalone dehumidifier for a time & get it down to 50% but within a half hour it’s back up into the high 60s. I had an attic vent then & now. I’m not sure what to do. I’ve already paid the roofing company in full for the job. They suggested putting in a solar-powered attic fan because installing electricity in my attic is not feasible. I also have a door blower test scheduled for next month to see if they can find any other leaks. But my house was built in 1906; there’s not much that can be done, probably. At least not without gutting the place and insulating it properly. Ran into any homes like mine, @Taddy Digest?
Here’s a curveball for ya… what about after adding positive pressure ventilation for tight attic renovations? We need fresh air up there too! After spray foaming my attic roof decking (1925 Craftsman house) and sealing the ridge vent, attic humidity stays at or below 50% with no AC in the summer. Which is GREAT! But, no fresh air! Can’t breathe! So I added an Air King QuFresh (basically ERV on the cheap like a positive-pressure bathroom exhaust). It pumps in fresh outdoor air whenever it is between 85-45 degrees and 55-25 humidity. Pretty neat trick. It’s like a smart window that automatically opens and closes itself at the right time. Attic HVAC now keeps the air temp at 75 degrees and summer humidity seems to stay around 56% on average (short peaks at 62% and valleys at 48%). Seems like the only way to get total humidity control would be to switch to an ERV… but that’s $$$$ and filters and maintenance. Doesn’t seem worth it to me. Or add a dehumidifier to counteract the incoming moisture from the outside. So what’s the best choice? Breathe stale air all the time at lower humidity? Or provide positive fresh airflow at the expense of more humidity? Always a balancing act!
Awesome article! I have a crawl space under an addition onto my family room. Addition is probably 15 x 40 feet . There’s these 2 ducts that run into the crawlspace under the addition and I know there’s joint seal issues under there, I just cant access them. Consequently, where the ducts penetrate under the addition, into the hole cut into the rim joist, there’s huge backpressure where air that should be going up into the addition is just leaking out. If ya go into the addition, those 2 vents where air should be coming out barely have a trickle. Any ideas how I can get that air into the addition? I was thinking of sealing the holes where the ducts enter the addition. Ya know, so the back pressure will be forced out through the vent ports instead of through the point of least resistance (its the lowest part). But then I reasd crawl spaces shouldnt be sealed off from the rest of the house. Mannn!