RVUpgrades.com offers an extensive online selection of Class A and Class C motorhome parts, including fiberglass, exterior doors, baggage doors, RV siding, vents, and more. With fast, free shipping, customers can easily return products for upgrades, improvements, and handy enhancements. Camping World is a trusted source for all RV and camping needs, offering top-quality RV parts, accessories, and supplies at the best prices. Veurink’s RV Center has a huge selection of OEM replacement parts, while Pelland Enterprises is the leading supplier for coaches and campers of all sizes.
Pelland Enterprises carries a full line of replacement and aftermarket parts for motorhomes, travel, and other RV models. They offer 1-3 day shipping on all in-stock parts and have a large indoor showroom located in Forest City, Iowa. RV Parts Center offers a great selection of USA-made motorhome parts and supplies at the best prices online.
RVupgrades also offers over 20,000 products and over a half of a million orders shipped, providing the best selection of RV parts for sale in Grand Rapids, MI. RV Part Shop America is your one-stop shop for all RV camping outdoor and marine parts, with the largest selection and fast free shipping over $99. The RV Parts House is your premium online RV parts and camping resource.
In summary, RVUpgrades.com, Camping World, RVPartsCountry.com, RVupgrades.com, RVUpgrades.com, RV Parts America, RV Parts House, and RV Parts America are all excellent sources for RV parts, accessories, and supplies.
📹 What to look for when buying a used RV // Used Camper Buying Tips and Advice
Buying a used RV can be challenging. And just knowing the basics of what to look for when buying a used RV can be difficult.
Is it OK for motorhome tires off the ground?
The speaker posits that a greater number of points of contact with the ground—specifically, eight—is more effective than a mere six. Moreover, the speaker expresses concern about the potential failure of their jacks.
How many miles can you put on a Class C motorhome?
The lifespan of an RV can be significantly extended by proper maintenance. Model types may impact the lifespan, but the basics of RV maintenance are similar. Regular inspections and checks on tanks, battery, roof, slide-outs, and other important parts are crucial. Thorough cleaning and proper storage are also essential. Other tips for extending the life of an RV include:
- Regularly check the vehicle’s condition and make necessary repairs.
- Regularly inspect the vehicle’s interior and exterior for signs of wear and tear.
- Regularly check the vehicle’s battery and roof for signs of wear and tear.
- Regularly check the RV’s tire pressure and tire pressure.
Who makes a quality Class C motorhome?
Brands such as Entegra, Newmar, and Thor provide a variety of floor plans that incorporate the majority of RV features typically found in Class A rigs, albeit within smaller spaces. Class C motorhomes typically include a master bedroom with a queen-sized bed and a table or over-cab bunk that can be converted to a queen-sized bed. The most luxurious Class C coaches can accommodate up to five individuals and feature amenities such as a table or an over-cab bunk.
What RV brand lasts the longest?
Airstream travel trailers are durable and watertight, ensuring a 30-year lifespan. They are resistant to leaky bump-outs and easily penetrated roofing material, preventing water damage and RV deterioration. Class B and C motorhomes typically have a 10-20-year lifespan, with some reaching up to 300, 000 miles if well-maintained. Regular maintenance is crucial for the longevity of these vehicles. Both types of motorhomes require regular cleaning and maintenance to prevent water damage.
What Class C motorhome gets the best mileage?
The lower profile coachbuilt motorhomes offer the best mpg due to their sleeker and more aerodynamic design. The average European Class C motorhome (also known as Coachbuilt) has an average of 25 miles per gallon. Class B motorhomes, such as the Elddis Autoquest, Swift Bolero, Rollerteam Autoroller, Bailey Autograph, and Chausson Welcome 727GA, have the best gas mileage out of all three types.
What is the average life of a motorhome?
The lifespan of an RV, motorhome, or travel trailer depends on various factors, but typically two decades is reasonable for a well-maintained vehicle. Class A or Class B RVs or motorhomes have an average lifespan of 10-20 years. The life expectancy of a motorhome is measured by its mileage, with Class B motorhomes typically lasting longer than Class A or Class C motorhomes, assuming proper maintenance.
What is the average life of a Class C motorhome?
Class C RVs can last up to 200, 000 miles with regular maintenance and quick problem fixes. They are built on a common van chassis, making maintenance easy. However, due to their weight and less powerful engines, they have a low cargo carrying capacity (CCC), which can be easily exceeded, especially if carrying passengers. This can strain the engine and cause premature engine death. Class C RVs are often considered the “Goldilocks” of motorhomes, not too big or too small. They look like trucks with an attic area and living space in the back, offering more space than Class A but being cheaper than Class As.
How often should you change Class C motorhome tires?
RV tires should be replaced every three to five years, but the five-year period is typically reserved for well-cared-for tires. Issues that may go unnoticed include tire quality, weight strain, underinflated tires, and extreme temperatures or sunlight. To determine if tire replacement is necessary, consider factors such as tire inspection frequency, RV weight, heavy load carrying, use of tire covers, and speed. If you’re unsure about the need for a tire replacement, consider these factors when deciding whether to replace your tires.
What is the best length for a Class C motorhome?
Class C RVs, which range in length from 22 to 33 feet, offer a greater degree of living space and amenities than Class B RVs. This makes them an optimal choice for families and for longer journeys, as they include kitchens, bathrooms, and separate sleeping areas.
Which Class A motorhome is the most reliable?
Winnebago Industries, a leading manufacturer in the RV industry, is among the top five most reliable Class A RV manufacturers. These brands are known for their commitment to quality, innovation, and customer satisfaction. Winnebago is known for its luxury, spaciousness, and state-of-the-art features, making them the ultimate home-away-from-home experience for road adventurers and travel enthusiasts. Other notable brands include Tiffin Motorhomes, Newmar, Thor Motor Coach, and Fleetwood RV.
Each brand offers unique features, such as durability, design, and overall performance. The pros and cons of each brand are discussed, offering insights into their reliability, design, and overall performance. It’s worth noting that all of these Class A RVs can be found for rent or purchase on RVnGO.
How often do you change the oil in a Class C motorhome?
In an RV, the oil needs to be changed at the same rate as a regular car, about every 4, 000-6, 000 miles or at least once per year. The process includes using high-quality oil, an oil filter, an oil filter wrench, an oil pan with a spout, a funnel, a socket set, and an oil mat. For diesel engines, the oil change is recommended every 20, 000 miles or so, but this number can vary greatly. Diesel engines consume more oil than gasoline-powered counterparts, so the process is similar to changing the oil in a gas RV.
A “tune-up” is a general term for engine maintenance, specifically checking spark plugs, wires, fuel filter(s), and fluid levels. This step can be included in a personal maintenance log if appropriate.
📹 Used Class C RV Motorhomes – Don’t Make A Big Mistake!
One of the most popular types of RVs is the Class C. And there are plenty of them on the used market these days. But is it a good …
As far as mileage goes, most people who get an RV use it for a few camping trips a year and most of the time it’s within a few hundred miles. Do the math on that. If you did 4 trips to a place 300 miles away in a year, that’s 2400 miles in a year. Low mileage is actually the norm for RVs. One other note, is that mileage is at close to the maximum capability of the drive train. Think about wear and tear on a pickup driven empty vs. the wear and tear on a pickup that towed a trailer weighing 16,000 pounds. So your 47,000 miles may be the equivilent of two or three times that. Plus sitting for long periods is not good on seals and other components of the drive train. Please don’t get me wrong, that doesn’t mean it’s bad, I’m just saying be aware that “low mileage” is relative and actually the norm for these vehicles.
.1. Make sure the dashboard AC blows cold air, there is a vacuum hose buried behind the engine that rots and leaks vacuum, that is supposed to power an actuator that directs cold air out the dash vents. $1000 repair at an AC repair place. 2 Make sure RV generator starts easily and stays running. If it has not been run often, may need expensive servicing $1000. The house batteries start the generator, power interior lights and furnace blower, water pump and electronic controls, they go bad if not cared for with distilled water and kept charged. Usually two 6-volt special RV batteries in series or one larger one $200+. 3. The converter charger keeps your house batteries charged and interior lights, etc. lit when you are connected to camp power, make sure it is working, $150. 4.The roof AC unit should blow cold air,$1000 5.The furnace should heat immediately and respond to thermostat settings.$400 6. There should be no sidewall cracks in tires and they should be no more than 5 years old regardless of tread depth for safety ($300 x 6 apiece). 7.The pleated day/night window shades may need repairs/replacement.$50-100, each. Some minor water damage may be acceptable. RV’s are generally not designed to stay water-proof and are not assembled by well trained people, emphasis is on speed, not much quality control. Refrigerators should be left on by seller to show that they work, they cost $1000 to replace. Slides are nice but may have mechanical problems and air and water leaks, and they are in the way when retracted.
You can get a moisture sensor detector and put it on everything (the walls under everu window etc just like he did also don’t forget under the beds. NEVER forget the slides and them. Oh btw you can get the handheld moisture sensor anywhere online etc and it’s cheap ❤ thanks for all of the amazing advice!! Sorry one more thing with all of these hurricanes tornadoes “1000” year floods etc. Many NEW RV LOTS with their lots full these flooded RVs have been cleaned up and put on lots to be sold so please find out ok enough of me sorry
Learned a lot thank you. I’m looking for my first used rv class c. You are very thorough in your inspection. Does that negate having to hire a certified rv inspector. Have you had any instances where you needed a 2nd opinion ? Secondly, you preferred a Ford V10. Is it because of the power and reliability vs. other power trains and chassis ? Bear with me this is my first submission.
Thanks for the best info I’ve come across in the last 3 years I have looked online for an RV! After all this time, I finally saw my first used Class C in person a few days ago. I’m going back later this week to really start checking everything out & test drive with owner. First concern was that it didn’t start; due to leaving the backup camera plugged in, according to the owner. Unfortunately, inspecting some things including the roof isn’t a possibility for me at 68 with spinal fractures. I was reassured, verbally only of course, that all leaks & moisture have not been present for the last year after she had roof resealed. Old delamination areas had been voluntarily pointed out by owner. One of my questions is that it’s winterized, so is there still a way to check the plumbing fixtures?
Thank you so much for your article 😊 as a buyer you in my Humble opinion are just like a professional inspector with your walk around and through 😊😊 you talk slow, you know your stuff 😊😊😊. I like how that E-450 Ford has power steering reservoir in front up top. The Three Aid Ambulance type vehicle that I service for a Fire Cadet REHAB program. The power steering reservoir was way down by firewall. Unless you knew where to look, it could be overlooked ( bad) when buting used, the new owner might overlook because they cant see it. I personally don’t like the Ford E style fronts on RVs, like the regular truck syle fronts. Thats just me because I service 3 of them in Ambulance 🚑 type fronts. The inside engine cover is had to remove because on Ambulance 🚑 Un cab you have engine removable cover all covered over top with emergency Light switches and siren control box, radio ect. I highly recommend that anyone looking to build there own back as a custom RV. Buy a used Ambulance 🚑 like are Rehab units do NOT respond code RED to calls, so normal driving for YEARS of there life There is oiwer already to rear of box, the framing is built STRONGER. And you can easily plug a gen set into back box for portable 110 power without having ro run your engine. The big thing is you must build your rear compartment. I have seen guys with very little building experience go to work and make excellent bed set ups in them. With pota potty you can just dump in bathroom at any rest stop.
If I may add something that may help all RV’ers Headlights, being able to see when driving is important lol.. there are many HL restoration kits out there, I’ve found Griots Garage Severe Headlight restoration kit is the best . I’m not a newbie ( was flown from my home here in North East to Arkansas to do a paint correction on an nice 02 WS6 Trans am) but this kit will give newbies professional results and your Headlights will stay clear for years not weeks or months. The Headlight coating the kit comes with is far superior to other kits “sealants”, where the plastic will re-haze in just a few months. Thanks for your time making this article.
I bought mine from a bus company they said they sealed everything I’ve never owned one didn’t know what to look for nothing was sealed I had to rubberize and seal the entire roof. There’s water damage that I have found on the walls. Then one of the owners of the company passed away, so getting it titled into my name was a bitch because they didn’t sign off. Now I’m having to restore it before we can even use it
One of the better articles on buying a used RV I have seen. One thing that wasn’t mentioned was having the RV inspected by a certified RV inspector. The reason I mention that is just about every thing I have read or seen they recommend having not only used but even new RVs professionally inspected. What are your thoughts on that?
When I bought my 97 Ford E-350 class C in 2019, I checked the radiator hoses, after I had already took it home, and found out, that every thing was original, this man was sneaky he had just bought 2 in house batteries so everything worked just fine for our first 2 nights of our first trip later I found out that the battery inverter was not working so in the 4 years I’ve have had it I’ve replaced the radiator hoses water pump, serpentine belt, all the fluids, upper and Lower ball joints, both tiered ends and 2 more suspension rods, it’s good to check the deferential oil, mine was almost like Liquid roofing sealer, I replaced it, in December 2022 I replaced all 7 tires and bought 4 Aluminum wheels, I installed a front end reciver and bought a 12,000 pound winch just incase, I extended a rear platform 3ft for a large tool box and to house the winch and batteries tools and tow ropes, it’s been a lot but I hope it’s ready for a 1 month trip to baja.
One thing you can do also is high an RV inspector. I don’t know enough about engines so that’s what I’ll do. They also check all the systems and systems and construction issues as well. It’s worth it. But inspecting it first yourself is good then if it’s the rig you want call in the professionals. Thanks for this information.
Take a creeper( flat/wheeled, add a board for head/ neck support, another board to use as a runway underneath. Broom, webs & spiders, gloves, Notepad & pen, chalk to mark tire holes, spray bottle, hand soap or dish, in a ziplock, for tires, dirty tire #vin &stats plates, lol hands, multi meter, air pump gauge, fridge thermometer level, to check theirs, tape measure small L bracket or for checking if it’s square,, meas height, width length at random areas, this can prove potent. Frame issues smell. The drains. Stinky? Why? Test the H2O. Check the grey tank sensors at least, check dumping system, hoses. Rock it from inside & listen! Cracks, groans, squeals? Ha ha . Smell the cushions. If poss do a black out test, cover all windows, doors when it’s dark check the spaces,. See light? Haha take a roll. Of blue tape, mark issues& write notes, # each taped site ! There’s always the ‘ make it rain ‘ test, if they let you, garden hose, spray attachment, one with a detention allows a roof leak & undercarriage check., fully spray each window with someone I side
God you bought a Ford, yikes, though the older versions might be better. Just been listening to some content unrelated to campers but about Ford vans and wetbelt technology being a disaster and with a removal company having multiple fails as as the wetbelts are being rotted by the oil as opposed to the old cambelts which were much more reliable.
How does it ride ? I’m in the beginning stages of research and getting into the RV life, not sure what exactly I want yet but this is what I’m leaning towards. I have 3 disc herniations and a fractured vertebrae ( was rear ended in 2002 while at a red light smh) I manage but am curious how well these rigs ride, thanks ! I will be test driving some and ie renting one to get a feel for myself but curious as to your answer. Thanks
We purchased a used Cruise America about 5 years ago. Listed price was less than $30k. It had over 130k miles on it, but we weren’t really worried as they are maintained throughout it’s rental life.. Since then we’ve driven from Southern California to NY and back twice, as well as local trips into the mountains and down to the ocean. It’s never missed a beat. They seem to be built for abuse, and someone told us the truck portion was built the same as the uhaul trucks and were meant for long miles. We tweaked it with better shocks and sway bar. We’ve done pop up tents, trailers and 5th wheels and we decided to go with the C this time. (age is a thing, lol) No slides, no set up. It’s convenient and comfortable and all packed into 25′.
I priced a new class c 24’ motorhome in Canada a couple of months ago, out the door was about $208,000. I bought a 2000 Fleetwood 24D with 15000 miles on it. I am renovating the unit from head to toe and it will look and feel like a new unit when complete. The mechanicals are in excellent shape. Completely resealed the outside including the roof, updated the electronics on the inside including a solar generator, led lights, residential fridge, induction cooktop etc. Knock on wood even if we needed to replace the motor and transmission (about $10,000) we are about $180,000 ahead of the game as apposed to buying new one. Not to mention new rv’s are not the same build as something built in the year 2000. IMHO
Another great article, you hit a lot of nails on the head! We bought our Sunseeker class C used. It was 1 year old and only 7k miles on it (about 2500 miles were from the factory to the original dealer in California). We saved about $35k over buying a new one. Your recommendation of getting a professional inspection is the key to the used market. I have well over 50 years of RV experience so I did the inspection myself it took about 1 1/2 hours. It was in great condition but I did find 2 critical items that needed attention. The dealer offered to address them but we live 250 miles from the dealer so that would have been a burden. So they offered to reduce the price by $1500 to cover the repairs. My RV tech completed the repairs and even found 1 more that I had missed for $800. So we saved $700 more. Inspections may cost money but in the end they save money!
The one big problem with used class C is they are so popular that they are overpriced .The next few years the people who overpaid will be stuck trying to recoup there losses . I guess it will remain that way and if you want to play your gonna pay.You see in ads where a 27-31 ft class C are the same if not lower than a 24ft of the same year even ones that are twelve years old are still over priced and that also applies to 5th wheel trailers of the same size . Thanks for sharing your knowledge and no matter which used one someone chooses please pay for inspection for piece of mind it is a great bargaining tool as well
The best thing of a class C to an A to me is safety. I had a 19 Winnebago class C and went to an A for more space. The class C has 3 doors to get in and out especially in an emergency. My Entegra class A has 1 door to exit in an emergency provided that the motorhome didn’t tip on the right side which then you have only the rear window to exit and that’s not an easy thing to do. Another safety is the class C has the motor up front away from the driver with a nice bumper, the class A, you sit up front and there is little crash space much like the old VW vans. Thanks for your article.
You hit the nail on the head on this subject. There’s ole saying that I know that you have heard. Looks can be deceiving. You’re talking about the size of a Class A, my wife and I have both driven school buses, she has driven both styles motor in the front & motor beside her. She said that the snub nose rode rougher. As far as class A’s they are also top heavy. Keep’m coming
In 2019 we bought a 2001 29′ Minnie Winnie with 16,000 miles on it for $18,500. It was as close to perfect as anyone would be able to find and had NO slides, a walk around queen bed and a couch in a very common floor plan. The sellers left EVERYTHING in it. Must have been a couple thousand dollars worth of stuff. It has a ton of storage with 2 pass through compartments outside. I did a thorough brake job, changed all the fluids, made a simple refer repair, replaced the co/propane detector and that was about it. I don’t have to sell it for any reason, unlike so many people now.
I love how you make it clear one kind of motor coach doesn’t suit everyone and there needs. My husband and I tent camped for years in all weather including extreme but as we approach 50 years old our needs changed. We mostly love the parks but are tired of the set up. Also we love Cosplay and Renaissance parks and have a large amount of costumes and accessories to move about. We love amusement parks. Traveling in a small motor coach no slide works for us. It’s a closet, changing station, personal bathroom (instead of a Portable potties), kitchen, private eating area (Renfest are crowded so nowhere to sit and eat). And best of all a under 25 foot motor coach is welcomed by most businesses and easily parked. Now these are our reasons but others have different considerations. I have heard lack of storage is a minus in of the small class C’s. I found I didn’t have a problem with storage in a really old pop up. I think we will have more than enough storage. May everyone find the RV for them and happy trails!
Thank you for your article series 😊😊 The only thing I will say about class c RVs Is, if you get a Ford-E Front van. Just be prepared to reach for dip sticks. There is an important power steering fluid check tucked way inside down by oil dipstick. I do like the class Cs with a regular pickup front. Ford just came out with there new F-600 as a cab for class Cs. Its basically the same as a F-550 cab, not the old school F-600 that I srove in the 70 with two speed rear end 😊😊
Great website with a lot of good information. Looking to purchase a 2021 Phoenix Cruiser 3100 on the E450 chassis with 10k miles. Dealer advised the prior owner moved up to a larger unit. On-line blogs appear to be very favorable for build quality. Any concerns about the make/model that you are aware of.
Thor Motor Coach had problems with a slide out even when we bought it. Over two times the door into the motor coach lock kept breaking Thor Motor Coach. We had a professional locksmith. We had to pay to have the lock fixed two times and it’s still not right. Thor keeps sending the wrong Parts every time. Thor refuses to give us the money when it was even under warranty!!😡🤬
We used to have a Class C for few years when our 2 kids were young. After they were teens big and tall we have 3 reasons to update to class A: 1. Need more room for children. 2. Our plan B to be full time Rvers. 3. Class A not only has more room, more compactor, more cabinets…but it’s continues hot water making, automatic jack ( compared to class C we owned which do manual),big fridge work well ( Class C when driving not level, shaking…the fridge not working or keep cold…) And last but least, we love class A design. The engine is on the back ( diesel pusher) which our class C engine in front it’s noisy and make cabin hot). The generator is in front, so when we staying in our bedroom ( the Master bedroom on back) we don’t hear the noise from the generator. Now the problem is only my husband can drive the big rig 😂 But truely whichever more size, more comfortable, it’ll cost.