To protect exterior natural gas pipes, first address any surface rust using cold galvanizing compound spray, sandblast the pipe, and use rust-proof paint. Check local regulations for color requirements and use a primer and exterior oil-based enamel. Gas meters are usually attached to your house with bare iron pipes that will quickly become rusty if left unprotected.
When painting gas lines, consider local regulations, choose a good quality exterior paint, and use rust-resistant paints. Rust-resistant paints are the most common defense against the formation of rust on metal exposed to moisture. Clean large debris, such as leaves, off the pipe with a cloth. Rust-Oleum or something very durable and rust inhibiting is recommended, followed by a coat of rust inhibitive primer and a coat or two of exterior oil base enamel. Grey enamel paint is common, and Rustoleum is carried by most stores. If the pipe is relatively new, clean it with degreaser (blue).
Use a good quality exterior grade enamel, brushing it on for the amount you need to do. Don’t get it on the flex line or valve. We typically use an epoxy coated pipe or paint, same as what the gas supplier does when connecting a meter. We paint a battleship gray or battleship gray.
If running black iron pipe for a propane wall heater on the exterior of the home, you should use oil base Tremclad or Rustoleum paint for this job. You can choose a color to your liking. Copper pipeclips/saddles should be used instead of Talon plastic ones, as they are not designed to stand UV exposure.
In summary, protecting exterior gas pipes requires addressing surface rust, using rust-resistant paints, and following local regulations. It is essential to use copper pipeclips/saddles instead of Talon plastic ones, as they are not designed to stand UV exposure.
📹 How to Paint Rusted Natural Gas Pipes
Gas meters are usually attached to your house with a bare iron pipe that will quickly become rusty if left unprotected. In this video I …
Are you allowed to paint gas pipes?
The intrinsic nature of steel pipe remains unchanged regardless of its color or paint. While it may appear to be something other than steel, it is still steel pipe, even if painted another color.
Does natural gas piping need to be painted yellow?
It is imperative that the piping or tubing system be painted yellow, provided with yellow banding, or labeled “GAS” or “PROPANE” with the use of yellow labels. The maximum allowable identification interval is 20 ft (6 m). In addition, the Occupational Health and Safety (OH) and the Workplace Hazardous Materials Information System (WHMIS) Regulations stipulate that a controlled product in a workplace must be contained or transferred in a manner that ensures its safe handling.
How do I protect my external gas pipe?
The product range of high-quality gas riser pipe covers, available in three sizes (63mm, 32mm, and 1m), is manufactured from glass-reinforced plastic (GRP), which endows the product with enhanced durability and resilience to external conditions. This makes the product an optimal choice for enclosing external gas pipes.
What color should gas pipes be painted?
The flower known as yellow ochre is a common element in various cultural traditions due to its vibrant colors and distinctive scent.
Can you paint galvanized gas pipe?
The most suitable paints for use on galvanized surfaces are those formulated with DTM or acrylic latex, which offer superior durability and adhesion properties. Although it is feasible to apply paint directly to galvanized steel, it is imperative to adhere to the prescribed methodology to prevent peeling and ensure long-term adhesion. It is advised that the instructions provided by the paint supplier and manufacturer be adhered to in order to guarantee a successful application.
What is the RAL color for gas pipes?
In 1927, RAL 840 was developed in Germany to allow customers and manufacturers to communicate color information. Since then, the RAL system has evolved to include various ranges, such as grey window frames and pipework. RAL standards have become the defining colour code for most industries, with genuine, approved products now carrying a hologram to prevent fraudulent versions. The RAL Classic collection is of ‘paramount interest’, and many of its colours are used on warning signage and traffic signs. The first digit of the code relates to the shade of the colour, while the other three digits relate to the hue.
The RAL Design colour matching system was introduced in 1993, tailored to the needs of designers, architects, and advertisers. It started with 1, 688 colours and was later trimmed down to 1, 625. There is no intersection between RAL Design and RAL Classic. The 7 digits of the colour coding are grouped in a triplet and 2 pairs, representing hue, lightness, and chroma, with these components being almost all multiples of 5.
How to prevent gas pipe from rusting?
Underground natural gas pipe corrosion is a common issue that can be caused by a combination of environmental conditions, material properties, and electrochemical reactions. The process can be influenced by factors such as soil composition, air quality, and bacterial activity. The soil’s chemical and physical properties, moisture content, and temperature variations can induce or accelerate corrosion. Other external elements, such as air quality and bacterial activity, can interact with the pipe material, leading to corrosion.
The pipe’s material and quality also significantly dictate the speed and severity of corrosion. Certain materials, especially those containing iron or its alloys, are heavily prone to corrosion. The pipe’s quality can also influence corrosion, as older, lower-quality pipes may not have protective coatings or have manufacturing defects that expedite the corrosion process.
To prevent costly repairs and prolong the lifespan of your underground natural gas pipes, it is essential to understand the key factors that influence the corrosion process and implement effective prevention methods. This post is designed to be a helpful resource for homeowners, professionals in construction, plumbing, and anyone interested in understanding the complexities of utility systems.
How do you seal a natural gas pipe?
Pipe dope, a paste-like substance, is the most commonly used pipe thread sealant, providing a reliable seal for metal-to-metal threads in gas lines. It comes in various formulations, and it is essential to choose one specifically designed for gas lines. To use pipe dope, apply an even coating onto the end threads of the male pipe thread and tighten the threads together. When using on low pressure gas lines, there is no cure time, and the seal is complete immediately.
Teflon tape, also known as PTFE tape, is a widely used material for sealing pipe threads. There are different types, with yellow specifically designed for gas lines and white for water piping. The tape should be wrapped around the male threads in the direction of the threads to establish an effective seal.
HPC Fire Inspired uses thread sealant in their in-house manufacturing process, which comes in liquid or gel form and is applied to the male threads. It is crucial to select a thread sealant approved for gas lines and compatible with the materials in the piping system. Thread sealants often provide a secure and long-lasting seal, making them suitable for various gas line applications. HPC uses this type of sealant due to its ability to prevent loosening and leakage from shock and vibration during the shipping process, ensuring the seal will withstand long-term usage.
How do you protect a gas pipeline from corrosion?
Polyguard’s RD-6 Coating System is a corrosion protection system used on buried and submerged pipelines. It can be used with UV-protective coatings like RD-6 UV Overcoat for above-ground use, or heat-protective high-temperature coatings like RD-6 HT for materials reaching 190° F (88° C). The system consists of a liquid adhesive, geotextile-backed protective coating, and a tightly woven polypropylene geotextile fabric outerwrap. RD-6 has been used on thousands of projects for over 30 years and is impervious to external corrosion and stress corrosion cracking (SCC).
The geotextile backing used with RD-6 HT has high breaking strength, low elongation, and high temperature resistance. The system is fast, easy to apply, and can be backfilled immediately after coating.
What material is used for exterior gas pipes?
It is imperative that gas piping installation, extension, alteration, or repair utilize standard weight Schedule 40 wrought iron, steel, or corrugated stainless steel tubing. It is permissible to utilise approved PE pipe in exterior buried piping systems, provided that it is installed by a certified technician.
What color is natural gas piping paint?
The color yellow is used to indicate gaseous materials, orange is used for communications, blue is used for potable water lines, and purple is used for reclaimed water, irrigation, and slurry lines.
📹 What color should I paint my gas pipe?
Choosing the right color for your gas pipe is not just about aesthetics, it’s about safety too! In this video, we’ll show you why …
Plumbing job looks like Houston Texas style, you should see the electrical wiring, plumbing, tv cable wiring, Internet line by AT&T at my house. All of these done the lazy way and not up to code on any of those services. Also underground gas lines throughout the property, we’re lucky the damn house hasn’t exploded, burned down, or flooded inside.
Master Gasfitter here. Who ever installed the gas line was lazy. There are 5 times as many spots for potential leaks. Also there is no need for Teflon tape on gas line, a little bit of pipe dope for lubrication is all that is needed. Threads on pipe are tapered and provide the seal. Great job on the rust removal and painting.
The 1st answer is that at one time (located between the two 90s there was a water/trash trap in the line. It was removed and replaced with a straight nipple. It should be placed back in line. Second, please never recommend someone use a steel brush, power tool or any other a ignition source around a gas line. I worked in the gas industry for ten years( liquid propane, and natural gas). The gas regulator or the plumbing may have a leak. If you must clean the plumbing use emery cloth. Any wide strip of sanding belt / tape can be used to clean that pipe safely . No tools needed. Then clean the pipe with rubbing alcohol and prime/ paint it. There are plenty of rust adhering paints so no need use a rust converter. Depending on the tape or compound used you could find out you started a bunch of leaks by applying acid based chemicals to all those joints you noticed in the pipe .This is gas work, get a gas guy/girl to at least draw your advice from. Safety 1st.
Every joint has a chance of leakage, so in this case they cobbled together line of 6 extra joints increases the probability of leakage three fold compared compared to a single, two joint pipe…the least number of joints in a fluid/gas system should be the goal. Additionally each joint introduces corrosion issues. Finally, there is no substitute for the tradesman/craftsman who has the knowledge and will/pride to do the job correctly or even to a higher standard, when no one is looking. For these, building inspectors are not needed, and just slow down their work.
Wow just like the other comments when piping with gas you plan the job to have a minimal amount of fittings to minimize the chances of any leaks. I’m surprise that the gas company turned on the meter for the customer. If I was from the gas company I would say no gas until those fittings are replaced. Thank you for doing this article it’s informative as to what someone should not do in reference to gas piping.
Likely he didn’t bother setting up the pipe threader or didn’t have one and just got nipples from home depot. Just purchased my first home, and let me tell you, production builders are s**t. The days of good long lasting quality homes are gone. Now you pay premium for poor quality home build with builder seller driving a Porsche.
After cleaning the rust off, use International Paint Interbond 600. It’s a marine epoxy that will seal in any rust left so you’ll never see rust coming up again. Been using that for years in the ship repair industry with great success. Light sanding when cured and apply top coat of your choice. If you use another epoxy as a top coat, you’ll never paint it again.
Thank you for a very normal project around a home…rusted pipe needing to be cleaned up and painted. You were saying lazy but I wondered if he was drinking. Kept thinking one more piece would reach…. Or was accumulating too many short pieces and figured he could dump them on an unsuspecting customer. Beautiful job well done. I am cleaning a propane tank and want to prime and repaint…do the job well. So thank you for your information and example. Jesus bless.
I watched the gas company guy when he came out to upgrade my parent’s meter and add a branch line for their spa heater. He used yellow dope on the threads, no tape, and painted the fittings with gray paint specially formulated for black iron gas lines. He spoke very sharply about the galvanized lines the original installer had used (replaced as part of the upgrade), because the galvanizing can flake off. Not a problem for this installation, because of the pebble bed surrounding the meter, but if your meter is mounted out in the yard, surrounded by grass, you should slip a chunk of PVC over the risers. This will keep weed whackers from eating through the pipe–and yes, over the years that nylon line will notch the iron like a hack saw–when I had mine replaced, the original was more than 3/4 of the way gone. The gas guy (I had my work inspected, you damn betcha I don’t fool around with gas) told me I’d gotten it just in time, because once they start, they go really fast due to corrosion helping out. One more gas tip: some installers used to use copper lines to feed fixed-in-place appliances like furnaces. DO NOT USE COPPER. It can react with the gas to form a black, abrasive grit that will play holy hell with your regulator. It’s against code these days, but an old install needs to be replaced. Oh, and don’t forget the four inch vertical stub just after the shutoff valve at the appliance to trap moisture and dirt. Ah, one more “Oh don’t forget”: if you test your new gas connection before having it inspected, be sure to close all the appliance shut offs AND isolate the line from the meter, because regulators and meters don’t like the pressures involved.
This is old, but I’ll take a shot.. I believe galvanized pipe is preference. The single iron pipe has to fit. Thus, if it’s not a precut distance, the plumber has to cut a much longer piece then rethread the pipe. That’s not a cakewalk. You need a pipe thread tool and a vice etc . Now, with gas, you make the effort due to possible leaks. Unless I’m blind, he was supposed to use yellow Teflon. It’s not laziness, it’s tooless.
Rust Reformer chemically changes the iron oxide into some type of phosphate that doubles as a primer and would have saved you the naval jelly and primer steps. Phosphoric acid does basically the same thing, but is more caustic to surrounding metals/materials and needs more care in the application process. There is also rust converter that leaves behind a latex coating that acts as a primer coat.
The installer had to make up a 22 inch center to center run of 1″ pipe. That means cutting and threading a 20″ piece of pipe(20 1/4 really but he just used two 6″, two 3″ nipples along with three 1″ couplings) While it makes the job so much easier than setting up a pipe threader it does offer a lot of places for a leak to appear. Kind’ve sad when you total up the cost’s of the four threaded nipples and three couplings versus just threading a 20 1/4 in piece of pipe.
And the very best and easiest way to paint your rusted natural gas line………..drum roll please…………call your gas provider, who if you live in North Texas (and probably many other areas) will come out and paint it………….FOR FREE! Thats what I did recently and within a few days “TXU” (our provider) came out and painted the rusty pipe AND meter – did a great job!
In the amount of time and money spent on the rust removal I think I would have just replaced the pipe minus the 14 couplings. But that’s just me I run thousands of feet of black iron weekly so it’s not that hard. My guess is the rough in was completed on the piping and inspection completed. Prior to the meter being set in place. Once in place the installer returned Friday afternoon on a cold day,without a pipe threader, his boss/ contractor was probably pressuring him to have heat running so they could finish sheet rock over the weekend. So he dug around in his truck and found a few different nipples and a bunch of couplings, some probably used from another retrofit job he completed a year and half ago. I wouldn’t call him lazy as much as resourceful, putting together all those fittings requires far more energy than tightening up 2 fittings. He did what he had to do to get the heat on. I’m sure he would have preferred to just use one pipe but meeu I understand. I don’t carry manual pipe threader either.
You are correct, the plumber was lazy and probably didn’t have what he needed on the truck. Let’s go over his short coming#1 he used white Teflon tape, not approve for gas ( yellow Teflon tape or a good pipe dope are the only things approved for gas pipe threads). #2 too many couplings, 1 at the most and if he was really conscientious about his work he would have cut and threaded a piece to fit.#3 the horizontal pipe is not level ( doesn’t hurt anything it just looks bad).#4 it wasn’t painted. Other than those four things he did a fine job. If you would like to get these things corrected most likely for free,I would call the gas utility and tell them their Riser settled pulling your horizontal pipe out of level ( we’re giving your plumber the benefit of doubt, he did not install it that way).
Yes I agree with you. The plumber/gas fitters is too lazy to use a threading machine to threading 1 pc of long nipple pipe because it is too much hassle to set up a ridgid 300 machine. In Vancouver, BC Canada, I see it every day and all the time!!!!!!!!! And these plumbers and gas fitters are never bothered to paint the gas pipes. What a terrible workmanship 🤨🥲🙂🤔
You are correct plumber was just being lazy and wasted a lot of time and money using all of those nipples and couplings. Also if painted right at the time of installation like the gas companies work it should have not rusted that way in 3 short years. From a master plumber with 40+ years in the trade. Good job I would just recommend soaping all the joints to leak check before applying paint or primer.
Would be better without all the couplings but hardly a leak waiting to happen… If it was one piece of pipe would you expect it to leak at the elbows? No because there are always fitting connectors when running pipe…a few more shouldn’t increase the risk of leaks… Painting was the solution here…
Plumber was lazy and it cost more to do that. Nipples and couplings cost more than threading a pipe of the correct length. Also, painting the pipe is required by International Fuel Gas Code. What other shortcuts did he take inside the house? I’d be more concerned about that than a rusting pipe outside.
Dear Sir— I am a board certified therapeutic optometrist in us,,u talked about eye protection for navel jelly-OMG u r 2 steps too late—absolutely need eye protection from start of project—scraping rust off is hazardous to your eye—tight fitting goggles please!I still out rust too often and the big guys faint the fastest—stay safe.
Plumber here so the answer as to why there’s so many couplings used is simple; A) the installer was too lazy to cut and thread one long pipe for that run or B) he did not have the equipment to cut and thread pipe. So instead, he used a bunch of nipples (which you can get in various half inch increments up to 6″ pre-cut and pre-threaded at any hardware store) and used a bunch of couplings to get the length for the run. It’s called using what you have on the truck lol. In his defense, it is a pain in the butt to break out the vise, threader, oil and all that just to do one pipe and there’s technically nothing wrong in using a bunch of short nipples and couplings as it will function the same… it just looks like garbage especially when it’s outside from the meter where everybody will see it.
I had a plumber install a gas line for my barbecue and he tied into the gas line that went to my furnace and water heater. He needed a cheater bar to tighten a fitting and was so lazy that instead of going to his truck and getting one he undid some of my existing gas line to get a piece of short pipe to use as a cheater bar. After seeing that I started doing my own gas line plumbing and no longer hire plumbers.
I work for Miller pipeline as a pipefitter and I have to say they was lazy should of been one piece but as of how you removed the rust you have to be careful on you remove the rust in the field we use this paint called rust stop with this you don’t have to remove the rust just paint over and it stops the rust. You have to be careful because you could introduce electricity and it could end bad working with gas is a risk even if you do everything right and miss a step you have to do everything by the book got to keep yourself and others safe
I converted to ng once and the propane tank split off to the garage and house. I dug out the one going to the house since it was only burried a couple inches and had ellingson come over. I told them to silver solder the two copper lines and bury it or i could bury an access box to access it. Well they ran the line 2 ft above ground and used flare fittings. I told them i dont like that becuase future kid or whatever can bend it and cause a leak. He said this is safer and took my $800. Its 8 years later and my 5 year old bent it over and gas was everywhere. I just got done burying proflex gas line and risers myself and connected it up with no leaks. Not all hvac people are smart at their job
If you are going to scrape rust off gas pipes with a power drill, I would strongly recommend shutting off the gas at the main shutoff and depressurizing the gas pipe. That way, should you inadvertently cause a gas leak, there is much less chance of a gas ignition and explosion. Also, an abrasion mesh grit cloth tape (available from Ace, HD, Lowes, and others) is excellent for cleaning rust and corrosion from iron or copper pipe.
Quick tip: When you are removing the rust out of the pipe and using a wire brush make sure to not rub it where the joint is because if you remove the Teflon or cut it like you did in the article there is a very good chance you can cause a leak because literally what make the joint is the Teflon at the end of the joint that has been tighten. If using a wire brush I recommend buying a leak detector chemical (any hardware store should stick a little 8oz bottle) and check for leaks that could have been caused ( you don’t have to clean it since it doesn’t rust the metal) or use soap and water to check it ( if using this method I recommend wiping it off since it could rust since using water any weak spots). I’m a plumber, the plumber who did this was lazy in fabricating the correct length of pipe so he just used his nipple caddy and couplers to finish the job. I always try to use the minimum amount of joints when doing anything plumbing. It’s a win win for the plumber and homeowner, the plumber does not spend as much money with joint and the home owner doesn’t have to many potential leak points in the future.
I agree with “P.S.” below. While the article covers a great procedure, it would have been an easier, safer, and better fix to replace the pipe. Remember that by not replacing the pipe, you still have the potential for leakage at eleven points (of the fittings). Replacing the pipe would reduce the leakage potential by six. Also, thank you for providing the Rustoleum paint colors.
As a retired safety professional, I would never use any kind of sparking tool (including both electric and wire brushes as in this article) on a natural gas line, because if there is a leak and the gas/air mixture is within the flammable range, it could ignite the mixture and cause an explosion! For this reason, trained professionals only use non-sparking tools when working on natural gas piping and equipment.
Rusty gas pipe, plus three connections = more chance of a leak at some point, i’d certainly get a professional in there to replace that with galvanized pipe at least! How many people in the same situation would just let it rust until it leaks and then an explosion happens? If its that bad on the outside I wonder if the inside pipes will rust out as well, nice explosion waiting to happen for the future home owner
Going to be perfectly honest for this you was right most plumbers want a job like that don’t take their time to do it but on the other hand the only other reason why I plumber should do that if he doesn’t have a long enough to pipe to rent but even then I feel like he should not have charged anybody from that if he didn’t want to do it right
Is that run of segmented pipe an indication of the state of America these days? If so then we’re in more trouble than I thought. Regardless if this fellow is reading this what’s done is done. Now it’s on you. Nice job of “fixing” but…..you should replace those segments with one overall pipe. Do so for all the reasons noted by others below. Because here’s the thing. Ever had the “Uh oh” experience? You know what I’m talking about? It’s where you can see a problem before it happens, do nothing to actually correct it, and then at some later point it invariable happens?!? Well…that’s what you’ve got here. So now that you see it my advice? Fix it. It’s going to be mighty hard to explain to the spouse how it was you saw a jeopardy situation like this yet just went and applied paint to it? So fix it. You’re welcome. 😉 John~ American Net’Zen
Okay i have a serious question for anyone who knows the gas laws in Texas. If i have a gas leak around the gas meter area,is it my responsibility to do any replacing of anything that needs to be repaired or replaced on the gas line or gas meter? Please only serious answers and people who are aware or have been thru this situation thanks in advance
To all of you Master Plumbers, Journeyman Pipe Fitters, and other assorted Know-It-Alls: That connection was made by some Utility Company’s Gasman (or Serviceman, if you like) along with probably 20 others that same day. In terms of getting as many as possible finished at different locations each time, a small box of nipples, fittings, and tools carried to the installation site along with the meter being installed is FAR more quick and efficient than setting up a threader over and over all day long. Not everyone can sip coffee and watch their apprentice set up their power machine, take their measurements, cut their threads, carry it over and install for them before packing it all back away too. Some of us have to supervise you Prima Donnas. We’re called Superintendents.
I’m in the same situation, so really appreciated this article! My home is new construction, so the rust isn’t as bad. I pointed the rusty gas pipe out to the builder and he slapped a coat of paint over the rusty pipe. (No rust removal, no primer.) The rust immediately seeped through the paint, so I’m going to tackle the job myself. Would you add any steps given there is now a coat of paint on the rusty pipe? Thank you!
Very cool DIY article, good Sir. After wire brushing the heavy/loose rust off, you could try using a rust converter product to convert the light rust left over instead of more cleaning work. Also, remember that natural gas meters may vent some natural gas as part of pressure regulation so the wire brushes and wheels could be a spark hazard. That’s why you DO NOT use any torches, braziers, or heat sources to try removing the rust! Also, the plumber that did the piping should be beaten with a stick (as the late Chicago columnist Sidney Sheldon used to write in his column). All those threaded joints are potential leak paths, and apparently used because he was either too lazy to cut and thread a nipple (short length of pipe), or too lazy to go get a length of pipe to cut and thread like a professional.
The time required to off load the pipe machine, oiler, pipe reamer and die, plus drip protection, adds more dollar cost to the job. For one piece of pipe to be fabricated is not worth it and when the customer is given the option will usually request the least expensive route which is piece meal it with your nipple tray and fittings. The plumber’s tray must have been low on 6′ nipples.
I would suggest for next time, check for leaks after you clean the pipe. The wire brushes shred that tape (which shouldn’t be used anyways) and can pull it out of the threads. The cleaner may or may not deteriorate the tape depending on the cleaner as well as the tape (who knows what that guy used for his tape). At least used a bubble solution, especially with so many joints, externally, with rust. Also, just as a general rule, I would shut off the gas when doing a wire brush. If there was a leak, its extremely unlikely but a small spark from the brush on the pipe could potentially ignite.
GAS piping is NOT the same as water piping. Actually do a little research before saying comments about someone being lazy. Iron natural gas piping, if cutting to length, needs a trailers worth of equipment just to cut to length and to cut the threads. Otherwise the only other options, is to do as you see here… But I do agree that it should have been rust treated.
He wasn’t lazy…. it just takes time to go and have a custom sized pipe threaded at good ole Home Depot, so he used a combination of common sizes. It may not look pretty, but it is done on a daily basis. And if you are not willing to fix it then don’t complain about it. And that rust is not rust but the oxide of the pipe. If you remove it then you need to re blue the pipe then paint over it or this will happen again due to the moisture in the natural gas.
It’s sloppy, but it’s easier and cheaper to “create” a nipple of the right length by adding couplings and short nipples. The proper way would be to cut and thread a piece of the right length. Ever crank on a hand 1″ pipe die? Power dies available, but would require a generator on rig. They also used teflon tape instead of teflon paste. Normally natural gas required black iron pipe, but galvanized works OK too. Galvanized less likely to rust.
there is stuff that you can paint the underside of cars with that actually converts the rust that is there to a hard paint-like finish (sorry I forget the name of the product) but you should have just used that stuff as a primer then painted it with a finish coat of your choosing … seems easier that way cuz you’ll never get all the rust off. eventually, it will pop the paint.
You are absolutely right. It is nothing but a lazy and non professional plumber who did not have any knowledge of plumbing . Although this is outside but more joints means more possibility of leaks and problems in future let alone an ugly non professional look. Great article about removing rust and painting.
They also make stuff that will chemically alter light rusting into a protective coating that will act as a primer for paint as well. I will also note that they did the wall penetrations properly by installing wooden blocks through the siding to the cladding to run the pipes and conduit from outside to inside.
Woe that’s a nice job 😂 I guess his pipe threader was broken or he wanted to use up all those little price of pipe that were rattling around in his truck. I’d shut of the gas and put straight price of gas line in. Lowe’s or Home Depot will custom cut & thread the piece for free. It’s easy to remove that. I always like paint the gas line to match the siding color.
Well the more fittings we use the more we make gotta make money someway about gas lines being buried under ground I would like to know where else can you put them Mr Ge on the light poles so they are easily identified buy the yellow coating on the then they wouldn’t get damaged from someone digging into them
You called the plumber LAZY, yet you didn’t want to mess with it either. Why are we so quick to assume the worst about other people? The plumber was probably overworked, underpaid and provided with limited resources, it was 6pm in the evening and he wanted to see his kids and so got the job done ASAP. Was it laziness? Until you get your own butt up off the mat and redo it, then you are lazy too.
How to waste time, compromise the finish and spend much more money should be the name of this article . Simply wire brush what you can reach then use steel will pushed tightly into corners . Get a 1/4 in 6 in ” weenie roller ” or similar roller with a long wire handle and liberally apply a red oxide primer ( oil base ) the follow up with a oil based metal finish paint ( oil base ) 2 coats …total time 1.5 hrs … zero overspray and a better finis that’s not compromised by thin / thick spray areas
I’m a journeyman plumber in New Mexico. This is unacceptable but in a way kinda cool nderstandable but not really. So my guess is this a plumber with very little experience which means he/she might not own a threader whether it be a hand threader or power threader. But not having either of those is not an excuse because Home Depot and Lowe’s or any other big box store will cut and thread pipe for you all you need is your measurements. Also there should have been a union added for future repairs. Lastly always paint your pipe and fittings up to the house. Helps with rust and looks better. You need to have some pride in the work you do. Your name goes on it and if it looks like crap then that says a lot about you.
May i suggest, after locking the wire brush to your drill, you could also hit the “reverse” button and brush the pipes counter-clockwise also, not just spinning it one way. It actually would’ve helped alot for sure! You just have to make sure you do so diligently as so you don’t accidentally unlock it and unscrew it (hence why I’ve mentioned to lock it before starting). Think of it as like a Oral-B Electric toothbrush, it spins both ways, clockwise & counterclockwise as to get in all crevices! Good luck to yall 👍🏼
Sometimes it’s what plumbers have on the truck. Most of the time it’s this… customers want to pay NOTHING. Even though they’re getting a service, they don’t want to pay for anything. So the plumber probably priced it to get the job and it was probably lower than what it should’ve been so he used what he had instead of wasting more time, gas and money for someone he wasn’t making a fair amount on.
I take it you have washed your trash cans and put your name and address on them…. I would use the drill 1st and then the hand brush for touch up. Naval Jelly in the 1970’s was much stronger, they must have changed the recipe, I was disappointed the last time I tried to use it, now I sand blast, sand or rust reformer/encapsulate the rust. Nice that you have the extra house paint for the overspray! Looks good!
Were you not afraid of causing a spark with the wire brushes? I might have poured some water while brushing if it were me. And installing a new gas pipe is not so scary. Measure the pipe + couplings, have it cut at HD. Turn off the gas, unscrew the union at the meter, unscrew all the pipes and couplings and just use a lot of pipe dope and test with soapy water. Where’s the fear?
That’s a pipe-fitter. And yes, the reason is that they are too lazy to take the thread-cutter out of the van and cut/thread a proper length nipple. So they reach for the nipple caddy and make it up so they can get home and watch the game, drink a beer or wash their customers poo off their hands. If you could do this all over again, I’d throw-in checking all those couplers for leaks with soapy water. There are plenty of folks out there that are going to try this and that motorized wire brush is going to throw a spark here and there. You know the rest..
The plumbing installer didn’t have a pipe 2 feet long or he didn’t have a portable threaded with him. He may have had a large threader but who wants to wrestle a big heavy machine out of the truck, search for a hot receptacle when 6″, 3″ nipples with couplings are in a box right by the truck door? I would bet that there is an approved final inspection sticker on the breaker panel.
I am a plumber and I don’t think it was a plumber who did that work going into the house. In my experience I believe it was a lazy gas utility worker that would have done that because the utility companies don’t provide the threading machine to all of there mechanics. And also most likely it was done right at some point and gas utility company probably ran a new service and had to re connect to your existing pipe and that was the result. But it still could certainly have been a plumber