When choosing 12-gauge vs 14-gauge wire for lights and outlets, it is generally used for 15-amp light circuits and 12-gauge for 20-amp outlets. The electrical wire used plays a crucial role in the overall safety and performance of your electrical system. Inadequate or incorrect wiring can lead to issues when wiring standard electrical outlets or switched outlets.
A 14 AWG wire is preferred for general lighting and device outlets, while 12 AWG is preferred for kitchens and bathrooms that need access to more current draw. To determine the right wire for a particular outlet, three key pieces of information are necessary: applicable electrical codes, outlet type, and load. Electrical codes dictate that most wires in a modern home electrical system are 12 or 14 gauge. However, for large appliances like ovens, washers, and dryers, the smaller the AWG number, the thicker the wire.
The most common gauge for indoor outlets around your home is 12- and 14-gauge wires. If you’re working with larger appliances like ovens, use 14awg. Outlets in kitchens and bathrooms should use 12 copper wire (usually type NM “romex”) for a 20 amp circuit. Lights can use 12 or 14 for 15 or 20 amps.
Nonmetallic (NM) cable, also known as “Romex” after one popular brand name, is designed for interior use in dry locations. General lighting switches and outlets use 14-2 NM cables with a maximum 15-amp circuit, split receptacles and three-way switches use 14-3 NM cables with a 15-amp circuit. 14 AWG is the standard size for many residential applications, including 15-amp lighting circuits, bedroom and office outlets, and general electrical wiring.
📹 Understanding Wire Gauges | Ask This Old House
In this video, This Old House master electrician Heath Eastman teaches host Kevin O’Connor about wire gauges and the …
What wire do I need for an indoor outlet?
In the context of indoor outlets, 12- and 14-gauge wires are the most commonly utilized gauges.
Should I use 12 or 14 gauge wire for outlets?
The wire gauges used in electrical projects vary depending on the voltage and current. 18-gauge is suitable for 10 amps and low-voltage lighting fixtures, while 14-gauge is for 15 amps lamps and circuits. 16-gauge is best for 13 amps extension cords. 12-gauge is suitable for various applications, including bathrooms, kitchens, outdoor receptacles, and 120-volt AC’s. 10-gauge is commonly used in electric clothes dryers, water heaters, and air conditioners.
6-gauge is best for cooktops and ranges carrying 40-50 amps, and 4-gauge is for big electric heaters protected at 60 amps. Wickwire Warehouse Inc., a leading steel strapping supplier and stainless steel wire supplier, offers high-quality materials for your electrical projects.
What happens if you use 14 gauge wire on a 20 amp circuit?
14 gauge wire is not suitable for a 20 amp circuit due to its limited capacity, which can cause overheating and electrical fires. A 10 AWG wire is safe but not cost-effective, and may not fit certain 20 amp devices or fixtures. Aluminum wire is not popular for 20 amp circuits, but 12 AWG copper wire is the ideal choice. Copper wire, which is the same size as aluminum wire, is the ideal choice for 20 amp circuits. Aluminum wire is not commonly used for 20 amp circuits, but 12 AWG copper wire is the ideal choice.
What is the standard wire for plugs?
A flag is a symbol of authority, custom, or general consent, used as a model, example, or point of reference. It is also a rule for measuring quantity, weight, extent, value, or quality. Examples of flags include banners, long narrow tapering flags, personal flags, and the flag of the head of a state or a member of a royal family. These symbols serve as a standard for reasonableness and represent the authority and customs of a particular group.
Can I use 4mm cable for sockets?
The table presents the current-carrying capacity of a 4mm twin and earth cable, which is primarily utilized for 32-amp radial socket circuits, immersion heaters, and select cooking appliances. The cable’s current can vary depending on the manner of its installation. In the case of a clipped direct cable, the capacity is larger due to the enhanced dissipation and cooling of heat.
Can I use 1.5 mm cable for sockets?
The answer to the question “Can it be done?” is “No, it is not possible”. The answer is “yes” as the fuse spur can limit current to 13 amps, which 1. 5 can handle. If the cable is directly from another socket, it must be 2. 5 in normal domestic wiring. The answer is “yes” as it is allowed in Appendix 15 of BS7671 2018 subject to being fed from a fused spur. The cable is too thin for a socket, as it can carry up to 3600 Watts. The answer is “yes” as the cable can carry a maximum of 15 amps.
Should you use solid or stranded wire for outlets?
The electrical conductivity of a wire is independent of its composition, whether solid or stranded. Consequently, either type of wire can be used with equal current-carrying capability in any application.
Do I need 14 2 or 14 3 wire?
The 14-2 configuration is optimal for a socket or light switch, whereas the 14-3 configuration is suitable for additional wires.
What electrical cable is used for sockets?
The 2. 5mm Twin and Earth indoor domestic cable is a commonly utilized cable for the purpose of powering socket circuits. It consists of two cores and an earth core, and it is essential that it be covered with an identifying green and yellow sleeve when installed.
Can I mix 12 and 14 gauge wire on a 15 amp circuit?
The statement posits that such an action is indeed feasible.
Is 1.5 mm cable ok for sockets?
The terminals of standard single-phase household sockets are typically designed to accommodate wiring with a diameter of between 1. 5 and 2. 5 square millimeters. Consequently, thicker wires are not compatible with these sockets.
📹 How To Wire An Electrical Outlet – EASY Receptacle Wiring STEP BY STEP
In this video I will show you how to wire an electrical outlet. In this receptacle wiring tutorial I go step by step in an easy to …
Do you call them outlets or receptacles? I placed timestamps below 👇 to help you navigate this article. Safety First 00:38 Receptacle details 00:55 How to remove the jacket/casing from wire 02:25 How to strip wires 03:11 How to make a wire hook using needle nose pliers 03:50 How to secure wires to a receptacle 04:58 How to secure a receptacle to an outlet box 06:43 How to install a receptacle cover 07:41 Outlets box with two wires 8:36 Outlet box with three wires 09:20 GFCI Receptacle wiring explained 10:16
Thank you for the great info. I have enough electrical experience to be confident in doing the job but its always nice to be re assured. I also learned about the wire length slot and the tabs. All i have done is replace existing outlet plugs and dimmer switches so that was all taken care of, but when i decide to tackle the next wiring project i can use this info. Thank you
Do you have any articles on how to run wires and add electrical outlets in an already finished house? My garage has 1 outlet in the ceiling and 1 outlet on the wall and that’s it, I’m looking at adding another outlet and also wondering if that’s something I need a permit for if I’m simply adding it to an already existing circuit.
I was taught the upside down outlets are your half-hots in residential. Power broken by wall switch. I don’t think it’s in the NEC. More of a convenience for the homeowner to know what outlet they can plug a lamp in to and what that mysterious wall switch does that doesn’t seem to go to anything. We always wired the half-hot to the lower outlet on the recep, to leave room for another appliance that may have a transformer integrated into the plug.
I have found, in Arizona at least, that upside down receptacle (ground at top) is for switched control. Just changed one upside down with a red wire as well as black and white. Had previously just accepted that some contractor got lazy and ran that wire off to a switch somewhere that I had never found and could not find what made the top socket live. Turned out after resetting breaker that the the light fixture above the adjacent dining table was now on without control. It was on a dimmer across the room before. Looked at the old socket and the joining tab had been removed separating the two sockets. Broken the link and dining table back to dimmable and top socket is also dimmable. At least i know now. Presumably it intended to have a lamp plugged in? It would be mostly useless otherwise unless i want a variable speed vacuum cleaner or drill i suppose. And wire nuts? American wiring I guess. 115V instead of 240 like everywhere else.
Great article series–I like that my younger sons can watch with me without hearing *&%^$ talk! I have heard it is code that receptacles should be wired in parallel, with pigtails on each (even if only two wires per box), unless they are at the end of the circuit. From a practical standpoint, wiring in series introduces a voltage drop across each receptacle, and a failed receptacle will cause all downstream receptacles to fail as well. Any thoughts on that?
Am getting ready to wire our new outbuilding (24×36) and between mini splits, propane heaters, switches, lighting, outlets, and cameras, it gets confusing. Have been through many of the “experts” on YouTube but your website is easily the best on electrical work and greatly appreciate the well filmed, easy to understand, and comprehensive looks at the various projects DIYers might encounter. Keep it up👍
One thing I wish you didn’t do was flip the outlet upside down to hook the hot, and not point out which direction each hook should be. Putting electrical tape over the screws also prevents arching for people using metal boxes. Good quality article, though you shouldn’t tighten the screws too hard, Stay safe!
Isn’t it important to make sure the wire insulation doesn’t get pulled under the terminal screw as the screw is tightened? That would interfere with the flow of electricity. Likewise, if the wires have some age, and the copper is oxidized, do you lightly sand them to make them shiny again before installing the new receptacle?
Please allow me to comment on your ground wire crimp collars. Using a pair of pliers to crimp them does not tighten them properly. If you read the instructions on the crimp package, it probably states to use a special tool to crimp them. I reference National Electric Code Article 110.3(B) which states that electrical equipment shall be installed according to instruction. This may seem trivial, but if find yourself in a liability issue, little things like this can work against you. Thank you.
There’s no right or wrong way to install a plug, ground down or ground up, but as I was showed when I started working was when you have the ground up you can read the writing on the receptacle. When the ground is down you can’t read the writing. I was also told the same way when something metal falls on the cord. It all depends on what electrician someone uses.
Rather than using a box cutter for removing the sheathing I prefer my Klein sheathing/wire stripper for this purpose. Works for 14/2 and 12/2. It makes a nice clean cut without the risk of cutting into the insulation or your fingers. You can strip the sheathing before entering the box or outside the front and push the cable back in. Carlon now makes a 24.5 cu. in. new/old work box. The nice thing is you can mount to the stud using internal screws so it’s easier to remove later if you wanted to upgrade to a 2 gang box.
FYI the 406.12 of the 2020 NEC requires the installation of tamper-proof receptacles pretty much EVERYWHERE. 406.12 Tamper-Resistant Receptacles. This code change adds the following new areas to the existing list of locations where tamper-resistant receptacles must be used: Attached and detached garages and accessory buildings to dwelling units, and common areas of multifamily dwellings Motels, and their common areas All education facilities (previously only preschool and elementary) Assisted living facilities
RECEPTALE: According to the NEC, a receptacle is “a contact device installed at the outlet for connection of an attachment plug.” In other words, a receptacle is a type of outlet. A receptacle is a device that you can plug something into to power that device. In other words, a receptacle receives the plug, just like a trash receptacle receives trash. Glad to see you using the screws and not the push-in points, much better connection. I see wires in (push-in points) that run hot when under heavy loads, to point of insulation melting/burning off, leaving bare wires, waiting to short or arc! I usually (when running my own new wiring) will use 12-gauge for my 15-AMP receptacle not 14-gauge, just to have the extra current protection. Breaker will trip long before wire is damaged.
“15:1 Moreover, brethren, I declare unto you the gospel which I preached unto you, which also ye have received, and wherein ye stand; 15:2 By which also ye are saved, if ye keep in memory what I preached unto you, unless ye have believed in vain. 15:3 For I delivered unto you first of all that which I also received, how that Christ died for our sins according to the scriptures; 15:4 And that he was buried, and that he rose again the third day according to the scriptures:” 1 Corinthians 15:1-4. “1:5 To whom be glory for ever and ever. Amen. 1:6 I marvel that ye are so soon removed from him that called you into the grace of Christ unto another gospel: 1:7 Which is not another; but there be some that trouble you, and would pervert the gospel of Christ. 1:8 But though we, or an angel from heaven, preach any other gospel unto you than that which we have preached unto you, let him be accursed. 1:9 As we said before, so say I now again, if any man preach any other gospel unto you than that ye have received, let him be accursed.” Galatians 1:5-9. “2:8 For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: 2:9 Not of works, lest any man should boast.” Ephesians 2:8-9. “3:23 For all have sinned, and come short of the glory of God; 3:24 Being justified freely by his grace through the redemption that is in Christ Jesus: 3:25 Whom God hath set forth to be a propitiation through faith in his blood, to declare his righteousness for the remission of sins that are past, through the forbearance of God; 3:26 To declare, I say, at this time his righteousness: that he might be just, and the justifier of him which believeth in Jesus.
I am not sure if this will make sense but, If I have an existing 20A line (just outside the back door) to a porch light (light box at top and receptacle box at bottom) coming from a switch just inside the door. I was looking for a way to power an additional outside/porch type light and receptacle for the pool area so, I ran some sheathed romex from the spot where I installed the light and receptacle to the house and instead of going all the way to the main circuit breaker box, The top half of the existing 20A porch-light and receptacle is currently free (no load wires going anywhere further down the line). My question: is this acceptable: As I mentioned above, I ran (sheathed) wire from the new additional light/outlet to light up the pool area a little more, 25 ft away, into the top of the existing (bottom) outlet box (independent regular 12-3 wire) to the (free) topside of the outlet, so that I still have (existing) switched power to both the porch light and outlet box/receptacle and, the added, extra light wired in, which also now switches on and off the newly installed extra light/outlet? It works but, I want to (try) and be sure I haven’t done anything stupid. (L O L) Hey, I love your website. Just found it and it was so straightforward. I used to have my builder/contractors lic down in Fla. as a second career (All professional firefighters had to have two jobs back then) LOL. Wiring was never my strongest scope of work but I somehow got by 30 years without killing anyone, myself or burning anything down LMAO Hope I can chime in once in a while.
You’re making the classic mistake of using a Phillips screw driver. A number 1 square drive (I use a Kline tool) for most of the way and a flat bladed screw driver for final tightening. Although you probably have long wires for filming they would be too much conductor for a standard plug installation.
I still haven’t found any article on how to connect 12/3 wires to an receptacle. The 12/3 comes with an extra red hot wire. The outlet at these apartments comes with 8 holes in the back. Home depot or lowes don’t sell that type of outlet. I’m so confused. The apartments won’t change it or fix it so I figured it would be easy enough until i see it’s a 12/3.
This man apparently has never tried to remove a wire from the quick connect holes on the back. It’s fucking impossible. They hold stupid tight and last until you remove them or tear the house down. It makes installing outlets super fast. The commercial 20A outlets has brass tab that clamps down on the wire with the screw and makes installation just as fast.
And I kind of understand those special wiring situations but I don’t think I understand them well enough. In series probably means that two outlets in separate places are using the same white and black wires, right? The wiring situation with the wire nuts was hard for me to understand so I feel that a more detailed explanation or a visual with some drawings would help in understanding what’s going on there.
HI, i am perusal your articles as a single woman about to go onto my own land and do my shed to home conversion and I have never installed electrical. I do have a question, first of all thank you because I was wandering if I would be able to do this myself. My other question is how to add electrical boxes to an existing panel.
My comment concerns the tabs at 2:08. I’m an elderly woman and just finished replacing outlets in my son’s recently purchased home. The outlet at the front window, I took one of the tabs out. This allows for him to flip the switch at the front door as he enters his house for the floor lamp to come on which is several feet away. Then he can flip the switch to go upstairs for bed without crossing the room to turn the lamp off. I didn’t remove the tab for the other outlet so that it would always be on allowing for him to use his vacuum cleaner as needed without dealing with the switch. He’s very happy. Thought you might like an example.
my house had top outlet as switched for lights in living room and last owner didn’t break divider on outlet and just stuck the wires on any terminal, so power was going out on one circuit and coming back on another circuits white if you turned off one breaker you got shocked removing white wires on other outlets
im not gonna lie i really thought that there was more going on behind the walls than basically a bunch of wires attached to outlets rinse and repeat until the rooms done. like its really simple when you get down to it. i thought there was like some electrical cable spider behind the wall weaving a web of eletrical… stuff that made it all work. but its just a line. neat.
Hi, My problem is that I went to replace a 115 outlet over 30 years old with a new one. However I lost power to half of my condo after replacing the outlet? The old one had two black wires and two white wires plugged into speed connectors on the back. However one of the black wires went to the top socket and the other black to the bottom. The two white wires were connected together to the bottom socket. I bought a new outlet and put one black to the top and one to the bottom and put one white in the speed hole and looped the other to the screw being there was only one speed hole. But no power ? Do I have to remove the tab connecting the top socket from the bottom on the white side? Hope you can help.
hey so i thought i just had a faulty outlet so i shut the wall off and peaked inside and it loosk like someone took that bare wire and like, looped it repeatedly around itself after connecting it, i dont know how to proceed with it, if they cut it up or what ion know if i want to know… how do i proceed and its two separate copper wires on one scew
Question please, lets say that is a 15 braker for that circuit you are working on. Does each plug has a 15 amp delivery or are they both running on the 25 amp breaker. My question comes because I have dj equipment and I was advice to use different outlets power for my equipment for not to go over the amps
My part-time place was flooded for 3+ years, and the bottom outlet of several receptacles from my pump house to my 3 season room got water in them. They’ve been dry for well over a year now. Im planning on taking those out and cutting the wires then restripping the wires and putting in new receptacles. Are those new receptacles gonna be safe.
I have an old house where there are two wires coming into a box and I am unable to determine what wire is power and what wire carries to the next receptacle. Does it matter how the wires are mounted on top or bottom? Meaning do the black/white wires from one line need to be on the top screws and the other line’s black/white wires need to be on the bottom screws?
Excellent article! Please help me figure out how to upgrade from a 2 prong outlet with no ground, to a 3 prong GFCI that is safe for equipment use. If the outlet box is plastic with no ground in sight, would the following be correct: 1. Change out the plastic box with a metal one 2. Use a self tapping screw to attach a 6″ ground wire to the metal box 3. Install a GFCI that has a ground screw, connect the 6″ ground wire, neutral and hot
Great informational article. I get that you are young and cool BUT coming from a slightly older electrician you may want to ditch the background music because it is truly distracting for those who have never done this before….People will take you more seriously……. NOW….That being said this was a FABULOUS article AND I loved your complete honesty. My daughter got an older home out of state and asked me to check out some articles so she can replace her old outlets which are not in good condition and some of which are not even grounded. I will be forwarding this to her so she can follow you step by step as I cannot travel across the ocean. Definitely one of the best articles for wiring an outlet barring the background noise.