The general rule for how much space you need for a pocket door to slide into a wall is to double the width of the door and then add 36mm to accommodate the frame itself. For example, if you have a 626mm width door, you need an overall ‘pocket’ width of 1288mm, or if you had a 726mm door, you need a 1488mm wall space.
Sliding barn doors typically stick out between 1¾ and 2 inches, and to measure door height, first measure the door height. If the total width of sliding doors is 60 inches, you need a rough opening 62 inches wide, usually adding 2 ⅝ inches to the height of the door. If replacing existing sliding doors, you can simply get a 62 x 82 inch rough opening.
As a general rule, most customers require a depth of approximately 58cm-60cm for a typical sliding wardrobe. There needs to be space available next to the doorway equal to the width of the doorway for a single basic sliding door to slide into when opening the door. A minimum cabinet depth of 620mm (especially for those with hanging rails) is recommended for sliding door wardrobes.
Sliding barn doors typically stick out between 1¾ and 2 inches, depending on your baseboard and trim thickness. The minimum depth for sliding wardrobe doors without any casing is 8.5cm, which allows enough space for doors themselves and the track. Standard jamb thickness is 1 3/4″ (45mm), interior sill thickness is 2″ (50mm), and depth is 6 5/8″ (168mm) or milled to required project dimensions.
The standard depth for a closet with sliding doors typically ranges from 24 to 30 inches (61 to 76 cm), providing ample space to hang clothes on a sliding door. The sliding version will have a depth of around 65-66 cm, as doors slide one above the other with an internal and external opening.
📹 The Best Way to Measure Roller Shades for a Sliding Door
When ordering Serena by Lutron Roller Shades for a sliding door there is a lot more to consider than a typical window. Here is …
Is 40cm deep enough for a wardrobe?
Standard wardrobe depth dimensions vary depending on the style and size of the closet. Single door wardrobes typically have an average depth of 55 centimetres, while double doors typically have a depth of 70-75 centimetres. These dimensions allow for ample space for hanging clothes, drawers, and shelves. Shallow depths, like 38 or 40 centimetres, are ideal for smaller spaces with limited space. For larger items, deeper wardrobes are recommended. For those short on space, shallow wardrobes are ideal.
To determine the required space, use measuring tape and paper to ensure the wardrobe fits within your desired measurements before making any purchases. This helps you determine the best wardrobe for your needs without worrying about returns or exchanges.
What is the depth of a sliding wardrobe?
The depth of a sliding wardrobe depends on its function and internal requirements. Most sliding wardrobes have an overall depth of approximately 58cm-60cm, which allows for standard internal fittings like shelving, hanging rails, and drawers. Factors to consider include the purpose of the wardrobe, the type of internals, whether the wardrobe is wall-to-wall or requires end panels, and the minimum depth for sliding wardrobe doors only. The depth depends on the specific needs of the user and their specific needs.
What is the standard interior sliding door size?
A standard sliding glass door typically measures 80 inches in length, with width ranging from 60 to 72 inches depending on the space available for installation. It may include components like a sliding glass window, static glass installation, and multiple panels, resulting in varying measurements. When purchasing a sliding door, it’s essential to match its dimensions to your home’s exterior style and choose the appropriate frame size to make it easier for your courtyard to open. The dimensions of the door also influence the price.
Is 50cm deep enough for a wardrobe?
The standard depth of a fitted wardrobe is between 600mm (minimum) and 700mm. Sliding wardrobe doors offer sleek contemporary styling, ease of access, and require less space, making them a popular choice in Europe. They also have great space-saving characteristics, making them a popular choice for many years. The benefits of sliding wardrobe doors over hinged doors include convenience, ease of access, and a more spacious interior.
Do sliding doors take up less space?
Sliding doors are a popular choice for both residential and commercial settings due to their space-saving designs and aesthetic appeal. They often replace old windows or solid walls, allowing natural light to enter and creating a pleasant, airy environment. The Origin Sliding Door, a product from Your Price Bi-folds, offers expansive panes for a sleek, minimal look. Sliding doors also provide ventilation, allowing fresh air without opening doors too wide. They require little space, making them ideal for those looking to save space.
Sliding doors can improve indoor/outdoor flow, eliminating the need to open back or front doors to access the outside. They are safe and secure, with most now featuring safety glass, hook-over-locking mechanisms, and incorporated gaskets. The Origin Sliding Door is manufactured using low-emissivity glass and a polyamide thermal break, improving energy efficiency.
Aluminium sliding doors offer slimmest profiles, minimizing sightlines, making them ideal for spaces like hotel lounges or kitchen extensions overlooking stunning outdoor settings. Modern sliding doors are easy to operate with a smooth-slide mechanism, making them suitable for individuals with mobility concerns, children, or the elderly.
However, there are some cons of sliding doors. The biggest disadvantage is the level of cleaning required, as they can accumulate dirt, grease, and grime, especially in homes with pets or children. However, this can be easily overcome with regular cleaning.
Another concern is the track becoming sticky or stiff, making it hard to open or close. The Origin sliding door offers gliding operation and a 20-year guarantee, providing peace of mind. Sliding doors typically require a wider wall space than traditional hinged doors, but bi-folding French doors can be a suitable alternative for small openings. Overall, sliding doors offer numerous benefits, including increased natural light, improved ventilation, and enhanced indoor/outdoor flow.
How thick does a wall have to be for a sliding door?
A sliding door is thicker than a standard internal wall due to the addition of the cavity, which requires a larger wall. This results in a 160mm-thick strip of space from the room, but still offers practicality and clean lines. The door hangs from a concealed top track, which extends from the inside of the cavity and along the top of the doorway. A timber pelmet conceals the section of track outside the cavity, which can be removed for servicing. Felt buffers are typically installed inside the cavity to guide the door into place. Overall, a sliding door offers both practicality and clean lines.
Is 500mm deep enough for a wardrobe?
The ideal depth for a built-in wardrobe is approximately 67cm, as it allows for standard features like horizontal hanging rails. To keep your space organized, it’s essential to list your requirements, including the number of drawers, hanging space, and shelves needed for your clothes, accessories, jewelry, and shoes. A professional built-in wardrobe specialist can help you create a detailed, functional layout once you have a clear picture of your needs. This will ensure your wardrobe is well-organized and clutter-free.
How thick are interior sliding doors?
Standard interior doors are 1⅜ inches thick, while sliding barn doors are 1¾ inches thick. Sliding barn doors typically require 1¾ to 2 inches of space, depending on the baseboard and trim thickness. It’s crucial to measure your space before committing to renovations. To schedule Mr. Handyman to install sliding barn doors, call or request a quote online. Their friendly customer service representatives can answer any questions you may have about your home renovation project.
What is the minimum depth for a sliding door wardrobe?
In order to construct a sliding door wardrobe, it is first necessary to measure the depth of the available space up to the front of the doors. It is then essential to deduct 100mm from this measurement. It is recommended that a minimum cabinet depth of 620mm be utilized, particularly in the case of hanging rails. The designer will automatically calculate the optimal door dimensions based on the provided measurements and internal specifications, ensuring a slight overlap between the doors. This will be reflected in the quote.
What is the standard internal sliding door size?
Aluminium sliding doors come in various standard sizes, with heights ranging from 2100mm to 2400mm and widths ranging from 1500mm to 1800mm. The exact size depends on the number of panels and door design. Cutting sliding doors to size is not recommended, especially if they are made of glass or aluminium, as altering them can affect their structure and functionality. Custom-made doors are recommended for specific door sizes.
How big of a space do you need for a sliding door?
To maximize natural light and wall space, it’s recommended to leave at least a foot or two around the sides and top of a sliding glass door. Custom options are available if the current sizes don’t fit your space, but they may be more expensive. However, investing in a permanent feature of your home may be worth it. If you choose a custom-made sliding door, be sure to note its dimensions, as this information is crucial when selling the house or undergoing repair work.
📹 8 Tips for Perfect Sliding Doors without Hardware
In this video I go over, in-depth, step-by-step, how I go about making sliding doors for various woodworking projects. I go over a …
I don’t own a table saw nor router, but I am subbing right now! Why? This guy is so down to Earth. He doesn’t skip or race through project. I recently bot 2 Bluetti AC300s & 2 B300s. I can’t find a cart, rack or cabinet that will properly fit my power station. Because I live in rural America & keeping my Power Station in my outdoor kitchen (once I install a Transfer Switch (electrical sub-panel) I have no choice but to build a cabinet with doors due to the insane amount of dust accumulation. (I am surrounded by Agricultural open acres of land all around me.) Sliding doors are the way to go b/c they don’t eat up extra space required when you open them. I now am excited cuz this guy has taught me how!!!!! I can do this!!!! Thanks a million! I am off to buy my 1st router now!!!! Oh, anyone have recommendations on what I should be looking for in a router? Will the more expensive ones be worthwhile over the cheaper ones?
Thanks so much for such a thorough article. I can see the effort that you put into it. I want to add some sliding panels to a neiden ikea bed frame, but it will only be able to connect and slide from the top. Is it possible or no? I was thinking of creating a t bar shaped opening in the bed frame so that it holds up, and then somehow will have to create the same shape in the panels. Then slide everything in before constructing the bed? Lol I don’t know if it’s even possible but I’ll be putting storage boxes in underneath it and would love to cover them up. The only tool I even own is an orbital sander that I bought a few weeks ago and I’m on a frenzy with it ever since. Planning to get a circular saw and go from there with my toolkit.
My grandmother had a MCM TV console with doors like this. The one thing that always bugged me was the bottom dado seemed to attract every stray particle within a 10 mile radius, and it was a pain to clean out. I have thought about this and wonder if you were to take what you have shown, and in the bottom dado insert a piece of wood into the dado that sits proud of the groove with a chamfered or round-over profile (or may trapezoidal) cut along the part that sticks up, then in the bottom of the door, cut a complementary groove instead of the tongue to receive that raised bit to effectively use it as an inversion of the track you have. I haven’t tried this out, but I think it would work. Might even be able to get away with a smaller slot in the top? Oooh! You could do a brass insert instead, that’d be classy af in some walnut.
Not sure if you’ll see this, but I’m planning on using this technique for a larger sliding doors (3 doors at 30″W x 40″H). I’m worried about the long term use of it. It will be a high use door and wonder how they will hold up? Seems like a lot of friction. Any suggestions or comments on maintaining it? Or even possible hardware for a heavier door you would suggest? Love the articles, been following for a long time now
This was so fascinating to watch. I love your website for all the in-depth explanations and illustrations/animations, but this time you even out-did yourselves! I do have one question/idea: Would it be a good idea (read: possible) to make a groove in the bottom tongue of the sliding door and add a wheel/bearing for better sliding? I was thinking you could drill a hole from the inside of the door towards the outside, and stopping before you go all the way through and using a dowel that holds this bearing in place? You would probably need a wider tongue, and thus a thicker door, but I don’t see that as a dealbreaker necessarily. If that’s doable, you would basically have invisible wheels, if I’m conceptualizing it correctly.
1/2 inch doors take up quite a lot of pace. If you take 3/8 edge space + 1/2 + 1/16 + 3/8 gap + 1/2 + 1/16, you eat up almost 2 inches of interior space. Seems excessive. Have you tried using a plastic or metal track to tighten this up? I’m also thinking may be 1/4 glass panel instead. I’m making an entryway unit for shoes and it needs to be compact. The unit is meant to be just barely deep to fit a shoe.
I really enjoyed your explanation of cabinet sliding doors alternatives. However you were incorrect when explaining the benefit of tongued doors. Friction offered by one type or another is not dependent on the area of the contact surface. It is only affected by the weight of the door and the coefficient of friction of the materials. Ask any engineer you know if you want to confirm it.
Question: Do you ever build a sliding door with a raised bottom “ridge” on the bottom horizontal shelf, made of wood or aluminium ? Not only does it remove the need to cut a groove in the bottom horizontal shelf, but the slot cannot get filled with junk and cause the sliding section to either bind or jam completely. The same principle has been used on the bottom of sliding wardrobe doors for years.
Recently made a MCM console with sliding doors. Did the tongue and groove version and they worked well, but would do them differently next time. I would cut narrow slots in the case and cut rabbets on the backs of the doors, but not in the front. The rabbets in the front of the doors “show”, you can look into the cracks under and over the doors and the must be neatly lined up. Also, both surfaces of the front rabbets must be finished nicely. It would be cleaner if the front of the doors were flat and the rabbets on the back help to close the gap between the doors.
super awesome article! thanks so much for your sliding panel door insight. One question that I had after perusal, Im one of those without a table saw, but I ido have my trusty Festool Of1400 Router. I can see making the Grooves, but would have loved to see you making some tongue cuts on the door panels with a router to see how you would go about it. Any tips for cutting the tongue from the doors using a plunge router?
Excellent tutorial – thanks a whole lot, I really appreciate it and found it easy to understand. I was about to start planning construction of a credenza which will need sliding doors. This helped me settle some thoughts I had had, and convinced me not to go down the expensive sliding hardware route.
I want to build sliding doors of hardwood (Tasmanian Oak) 43 approx inches high x 19 (approx) inches wide x 3/4 inch thick. Is this door too heavy for an easy slide using this method? Do I need to use a track and rollers instead? Thanks Chris for your very clear presentation. Look forward to your recommendation.
Cabinets can display anything. Nobody but nobody addresses the issue of shop dust covering the French cleat items. Cabinets with sliding doors will solve the problem. No back to cabinet. Hang French cleat items in cabinet frame. Use lexan panel for visibility. Your thoughts. Better yet build one and make the article!!!! Thx Bruce. Cleats and Cabinets ( sort of like root beer and ice !)
Thanks for all the information shared in the article. I’m thinking of building a cabinet for our bathroom and since the room is very small i was thinking about sliding doors. But I’m a little worried about the moistur. Do you think the doors could get stuck? Are there ways to minimize the moisture influence?
Thanks for the clear explanation! Very helpful 😊 Not sure if you’ll see this, but I was wondering: 1) what’s the ideal size for the tabs? 1/3 of the door’s thickness? Half? 2) how much space would you leave minimum between the doors? 3) approx. how heavy could you make the doors without having to use hardware? Any advice would be greatly appreciated! 🙏
Hi guys I just wanted to say a big thank you for all your efforts. I watch several wood working websites but none of them reaches your level level of design. You style is simplistic but still modern with a bit of a twist. Your rocking chair belongs in a design museum as a piece of art. Maybe make a article about furniture build by your viewers inspired by your design style I used lot of your elements to build some bar chairs …I got lots of complements for the design If you wish I share the CAD model if others want to build it Keep up the awesome job
Hi Chris, this article is super helpful. I’m curious why, at 3.50-3.53, you say that using through cuts on a cabinet assembled with butt-joints wouldn’t work if you put the top/bottom panels between the side panels? I was taught that when using butt-joints that arrangement is preferable to having the side panels between the top/bottom so the ends wouldn’t show. Just curious.
What would happen if you flipped the grooves with the deeper one on the bottom? Would that make a difference in where the “sliding point” would be? I’m wondering because I’ve done this with taller doors and noticed they slide much better when pulled lower down, otherwise the top has too much play, resulting in the door getting jammed.
I have a pantry that is very narrow. Looking at my project I see that the area is so narrow a 8-10″ shelf for can goods is about as wide as I can plan for. Sliding doors is a must since there will be no door. Floor to ceiling’ tall is my goal. I could divide it into upper and lower sections if a full length 7′ plywood door may be too tall to slide. Any suggestions? Would the Baltic birch plywood be the best choice? Do you have a article for this type of wall pantry cabinet or sliding door to hide my can goods. Please reply. –Teresa
Interesting that you dismiss butt joints so easily as a way of hiding the groove. I would have thought the strongest type of butt joint WOULD hide the groove, but that’s because I thought the best type of butt joint was one that relied on the shear strength of screws, ie, where the side panel does not sit inside the upper and lower panels. A butt joint that sits inside the panels would be very weak on the lower joint. Ps love the vids & hope this comment helps with algorithms etc.
Great article Chris, as always! Your timing for giving me a plethora of ideas about my own upcoming projects is uncanny! I have some sliding doors in mind for a shop cabinet project (now that plywood is coming down from the ‘bank loan’ level), but I was concerned about a dusty environment preventing smoothly-sliding doors over time, the upkeep needed to keep them cleaned out and/or waxed, etc. (and this would not involve hardwoods, just normal softer shop grade materials). I had thought about getting something hard and slick in the bottoms of the grooves, such as strips of melamine edging, but couldn’t find an easy way to iron it on as groove bottoms. I eventually settled on making a laminated track assembly of alternating 1/4″ strips cut from wood and from melamine board, so that the melamine surfaces end up as the groove bottoms. My project is mostly stacks of storage cabinet cubes built as towers, with these laminated track assemblies mounted on the front edges of the fixed shelves dividing and defining the cubes, so as to have the same two-sided track assembly serving the top of the lower cube and the bottom of the upper cube, with the melamine layers offset from the wood strips within the lamination, creating deeper grooves at the top of each door for easy door removal as yours do. My only hitch I’ve run into during test runs is cutting a melamine strip with smooth-enough edges (since a rough edge could bite into the sliding door bottom and defeat the purpose of using melamine in the first place).
Dammit man! This article is pure gold. I bought the plans for the “Cassidy” Console Table (ask Shaun) but haven’t had to chance to watch all the articles yet. Is this article included? Keep up the great content. I want to build Little Larry and the Pico but as a new woodworker am not sure which one I should start with. My wife wants the coffee table first but I think the Pico may be a better first project for some reason. What do you think?
Really great article and the most clear and specific explanation! Thanx a lot! But I have a suggestion: wouldn’t it be better to make a rabbit instead of a tongue on the top side of the door not to have that gap between the shoulder and the cabinet as it appears when you actually put the door down in the bottom groove?