Exterior polyurethane is a cost-effective, waterproof, and durable option for protecting wood exposed to the elements. It requires three to five coats to achieve perfect UV protection and resilience against outdoor environments, lasting up to 12 months with the desired performance. To extend its lifespan, it is recommended to finish with a sealant before applying exterior polyurethane.
Recoating your exterior wood every one to two years depends on the type of punishment it gets, especially in sunnier states. A good polyurethane coating can outlast furniture, even in cold and snowy areas, and is worth having if you live in an area without severe winters. In contrast, paint should last at least 7 years, possibly more due to its UV blocking and water resistance.
Oil-based polyurethanes are typically more durable for exterior use, but some water-based formulas are designed for outdoor applications. Most water-based polyurethanes take 3-7 days to cure, while oil/solvent-based ones take 1-1-2 weeks. To dry enough for another coat, most water-based polyurethanes take 1 to 2 weeks.
At a Fine Woodworkers Club meeting, one member mentioned that polyurethane will eventually delaminate between coats. For exterior surfaces or previously unfinished wood, three coats are recommended. After the final coat, allow 24 hours before normal use.
Cautions include the risk of delaminate surfaces between coats, which can be dangerous. Surfaces finished with oil-based polyurethanes can be used after around 4 days, but full cure usually takes 30 days. Older coatings, properly stored, may be viable much longer, though shelf life varies. Overall, exterior polyurethane is a cost-effective, waterproof, and durable option for protecting wood exposed to the elements.
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What is the lifespan of polyurethane?
Polyurethane insulation systems can last over 50 years under normal wear and tear, while refrigerator insulation can last over 25 years. Vehicle bumper insulation can last over 20 years. PU EUROPE surveyed a 28-year-old roof with a polyurethane sheet, which was part of an insulation layer. The results showed that the sheet remained fully functional after 28 years of use, maintaining its original performance and values.
What is the longest lasting outdoor polyurethane?
Oil-based polyurethane is a cost-effective and long-lasting option for outdoor projects, especially for hardwood floors, tables, and cabinets. It provides a beautiful appearance and protects wooden constructions from frequent wear and tear. It comes in various forms and is ideal for outdoor projects. To make the right choice, consider various factors, such as the cost of wood, the condition of existing pieces, and the type of polyurethane used. Keeping existing furniture in good condition can help save money on new constructions.
Is polyurethane 100% waterproof?
Polyurethane is a chemical sealant used to protect wood floors and furniture from scratches, water damage, and wear and tear. It comes in two main types: oil-based and water-based. Water-based polyurethane is water-resistant, providing a protective finish, while oil-based polyurethane has an amber tint. Both types are used to enhance the look and color of wood surfaces. Polyurethane is a common varnish choice and comes in multiple types, such as oil-based and water-based. Water-based polyurethane is clear, while oil-based polyurethane has an amber tint. It is important to note that while water-based polyurethane is water-resistant, it is not fully waterproof.
Does polyurethane fade over time?
Color is a crucial aspect of a product, providing a unique style and ease of recognition. Long-term color stability is essential for high quality products. To prevent gas fading caused by exhaust gases and material photo-oxidation, Everlight has introduced the Everaox ® 504 performance-blend stabilizer. This product effectively prevents PU from fading, retains the aesthetic beauty of products, and increases their value.
In today’s competitive markets, consumers’ purchasing decisions are constantly changing, leading to the preference for bright, vivid products. However, maintaining a flawlessly new color is challenging, as it can lead to consumers doubting the product’s quality and reducing trust in the brand. This can ultimately affect the brand’s value and market competitiveness.
Polyurethane (PU) is a popular and popular polymer material used in fast fashion products like sports shoes, clothing, and bags. However, after only a few uses, these products often yellow and fade due to the presence of pollutants like highly reactive nitrogen oxides (NOx). This process, known as “gas fading”, can cause irreversible and severe color change reactions, resulting in the discoloration of the polyurethane products.
To combat this issue, Everlight has introduced the Everaox ® 504 performance-blend stabilizer, which can effectively prevent PU from fading, retain the aesthetic beauty of products, and increase their value.
Does outdoor polyurethane turn yellow?
Polyurethane is not ideal for exterior applications due to its exposure to UV rays and yellowing faster. To prevent excess yellowing, apply thin coats of polyurethane and lightly sand between coats. To avoid yellowing, look for self-sealing paints without a topcoat and opt for high-quality polyurethanes when needed. This information can help individuals find answers to their questions about yellowing polyurethane and seek self-sealing paints without a topcoat.
Does polyurethane last outside?
Outdoor projects often require UV-protected polyurethane, particularly water-based oil-modified polyurethanes. These materials offer durability and are less environmentally harmful. However, safety is crucial when working with polyurethane due to its chemical components. Key safety precautions include ventilation, open windows and doors for air circulation, and using fans to disperse fumes effectively. Ensure to work in a well-ventilated area to minimize fume inhalation.
Is polyurethane a good outdoor sealer?
Polyurethane coatings offer several benefits for wooden outdoor furniture, including water-repellency and lower maintenance costs. They provide a weatherproofing solution, extending the furniture’s lifespan beyond what wood can handle. Polyurethane also keeps moisture away from wooden surfaces, preventing rot. Its natural look and feel are also significant benefits. Wooden outdoor furniture is one of nature’s most beautiful creations, but it may experience wear and tear over time.
Proper upkeep and maintenance can extend the furniture’s lifespan beyond what wood can handle on its own. Overall, using polyurethane coatings can provide a long-lasting and beautiful finish for your outdoor furniture.
Is exterior polyurethane waterproof?
Polyurethane is a strong and flexible polymer formed by reacting polyols with isocyanates. Its hydrophobic layer repels water, making it ideal for waterproofing applications. Polyurethane is versatile and finds applications in various fields, including marine applications. Its coatings and waterproof urethane coatings are beneficial for boats and ships in water, as they prevent damage from water and rust, protecting them from worsening. Polyurethane sealants and coatings create a hydrophobic layer, making it an excellent material for waterproofing.
Does polyurethane break down over time?
PU foams rapidly deteriorate, with visible signs of degradation appearing after 20-30 years of natural degradation. These signs include discoloration, loss of flexibility, and crumbling, influenced by moisture, heat, and light. ScienceDirect uses cookies and acknowledges the use of these cookies. Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B. V., its licensors, and contributors. All rights reserved, including those for text and data mining, AI training, and similar technologies.
Does polyurethane degrade in sunlight?
UV light resistance is a crucial performance value for coated fabrics, as they are subject to photo-degradation when exposed to UV radiation. UV light, which makes up about 10% of sunlight, is electromagnetic radiation with a wavelength shorter than visible light but longer than x-rays. To mitigate or prevent UV radiation, anti-UV chemicals are added to the polymer during product mixing. UV stabilizers in plastics absorb UV radiation and dissipate energy as low-level heat, similar to those used in sunscreen cosmetic products. To test the UV stability of polymers, weathering test methods have been developed using artificial light sources to predict a product’s UV stability over time.
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FWIW, I’ve been using a 50:50 blend of pure tung oil and Epifanes varnish on kayak paddles since 2006. It applies as easily as an oil finish and it provides the same look and feel, but the varnish component increases durability. It does not create a film so it can’t flake and it still breathes, which is critical for paddles since they’re constantly wet when in use. I have an outdoor bench that I need to rebuild and I plan to use it on that, too. After applying the first coat with a pad, I use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper to apply subsequent coats. It smooths the previous surface and creates some “tooth” for the next coat to bond to. As with any oil finish, it’s important to wipe off any excess with a rag. The result is a super-smooth finish with a beautiful satin luster.
Retired now for 5 years, after 45+ years as a custom furniture designer/craftsman, I no longer have to worry about anyone’s outdoor furniture but my own. I have been using “Daly’s” products for 20+ years and find no equal to the ease and longevity of Daly’s “Seafin”, “Ship’n’Shore” for outdoor furniture and “Pro-fin” for interior pieces. Everything from my Adirondack chairs and tables around my firepit to the countertop of my outdoor kitchen in reclaimed redwood deck boards, to the custom wood (mostly mahogany) touches on my driftboat (including oars) have received Ship’n’Shore as a sealer, followed by 2-6 coats of Sea-fin. No surface buildup (unless you desire, in which case, uniformity in application is critical and proper drying times between coats become important, as well.) nor “dirt-grabbing” as with Watco or similar. Might be an alternative to try, or may, after some experimentation, become YOUR go-to, idk. But do give it a try. Yes, it needs “replenishing” every year (with light 180g-320g scuff sanding to clean and provide “grip”, wipe down with quick-dry mineral spirits, allow to THOROUGHLY DRY before reapplying Sea-Fin), but ALL OIL FINISHES should be replenished on a regular basis, my mantra to my clients ALWAYS !!! Good luck to all on your outdoor wooden objects, but never EVER think that once you have applied a finish (regardless of type or how many coats) to an “exposed-to-the-elements of nature” article, that you can claim ‘job done’…..not gonna be…ever, sorry.
I took apart a 50-70 year old 4/4 cedar fence at my last house (Seattle) and planed down a lot of boards (because how often do you get a bunch of oldgrowth cedar). Aside from ground contact, the most damaged sections were those that had been painted. The sections that had been stained or where the paint had worn off over the years were actually the best and required the least amount of planing to get to good wood. As best I can tell, the paint trapped moisture under it and caused the wood to fall apart faster. I have no intent to use a film coat on cedar. But also … talk about an amazing wood for outdoor use — decades of neglect and I still got a huge pile gorgeous wood for future projects.
Great article. I’m fairly new to wood work, however I have a pine door and a gate for that sits in full sun most of the day. I finish rhemm in Siskins Cetol about 10 years ago. They have both weathered absolutely fantastically. I live in the UK, literally on the coast of the Irish Sea with constant westerly winds and both items are south west facing. I can really recommend Certol.
Tons of useful information in this article, Thanks! Question for you – I live among trees in the NJ Pine Barrens with morning sun on the front of my home. I just painted my home black, all of it. Now I am adding cedar headers over the garage door and two large windows rough side out and would like to finish them without adding color. This is where your article comes in. You mention you will use a “non-film forming finish” and I hope you can tell me more about what products might fit that description. Are you talking marine varnishes, oils, or? I would like a bit of shine, but not much. I’d appreciate any feedback!
Really excellent article, thanks! There’s a lot of learning out there that can only be gained with lots and lots of time, and you’ve used it well! Could there be another article documenting the effects of time on joints? What joints became loose outside over time? Dowels, screws, glue, both, joinery, wedges, end grain, with or without sun exposure? Thanks!
I was fortunate enough to be the recipient of a a dock deck full of ipe do to a hurricane. So I have a lot. Made some adirondack chairs etc. Tough wood though. So now I use it for accents or for utilitarian purposes. For the bottom of legs on outdoor furniture I cut and glue (Titebond III) an end cap around a 1/4″ thick. This works wonderfully. I know epoxy works as well, but I thought you might be interested in another approach.
Brother!… I watched several articles, even as a generational custom woodworker with almost 10 years in the field myself. Your article was exactly what I needed to not only retain your given information but to apply what I know to what I am looking to achieve in different outcomes to my projects. Thank you so much for articulating this hands on experience to those of us that are looking for mentors outside of our own circle. This has inspired me to dig deeper into the world of well written article hosts for the trades. Thanks again!
The last outdoor table I made for myself, I finished with a particular hardwax oil product to see how it would hold up. That table didn’t make it one season in the unforgiving CA sun. 100% exposure for 10+ hours a day, and the whole thing was a loss after a year. The epoxy I used to fill cracks/voids cracked and chipped out, the finish was nonexistent, and because of no protective barrier, water ultimately seeped in and began to blow apart the glue joints. Glad it was my table, and not a customers. Good takeaways in this article. Never solid surfaces. Sun kills, water not so much. Species matters.
I used Spar Urethane and teak oil for a planter box about 1.5 years ago. It’s sees at least 10 hours of direct sunlight per day. The top is beat and needs sanding refinishing. The legs and sides however look vastly better. So in this case, I think water sitting on the horizontal surfaces, plus sunlight, really is the killer combo for this piece. The vertical surfaces still look newish. I’m in Alabama btw. So plenty of humidity and sun year around.
Great info, Marc! A small data point from Seattle: I built a cedar planter about two seasons ago and covered it with an oil poly finish since it would be outside. Before doing so, I used a trick similar to your ‘epoxy feet’, which was several applications of thinned-out PVA glue (I think it was Gorilla wood glue) to the end grain on the feet. It sits on a concrete patio and there’s no trace of discoloration going up the legs under the poly. I have a thought about top coats: I wonder if an automotive-grade clearcoat finish would fare better? It has a lot of UV inhibitors and is designed to handle extremely hot and extremely cold temperatures out in the elements. I just wonder if it would be elastic enough to account for wood movement without cracking.
Marc, great comparison. Thank you! Just the information I was looking for. That said, is there any guide, chart, or other source of information relating to UV protection on a scale (1-10 or other) that you, or others, may have seen? Aside from paint or keeping the wood out of the sun altogether, I’m wondering what the best UV protective application, or combination, there is.
The epoxy pads on the legs is a must. I recently refinished my teak bench and found the endgrain on the legs was getting a bit punky. To facilitate drying, I drilled some holes into the bottom of the legs first and let dry for a while. I then poured on the epoxy. A few years later and it is holding up great. I do take it in for the winter though.
Two incredible wood species for outdoor use found here in South Africa are Massaranduba (also known as beef wood) and Rhodesian teak. I just had some scrap pieces of those outside against a wall. No finish or anything on them for a good couple of years in African sun and thunderstorms. The colour was still quite beautiful especially on the teak which darkens to a deep rich red.
Your finished mixture you posted a long time ago with Epiphanes although I always used a different spar finish in the mixture, has held up and is easy to repair. Did a lot of refinishing with it for clients and although don’t do that as much many of the homeowners took the formulas and steps and continue to use it here in the Arizona Sun. Still is the best system I have found. I Finished so much stuff with lumber oil, and various others to check the systems also. Your system just has to be kept up but just light sand and refinish keep it looking sharp. Like a yearly or semi-yearly polish. Thank you. I use a mixture of penetrating for other larger projects like cedar or redwood storage shelters, but for gates, doors, outside cabinets, and such best system I have found.
I can add another similar data point for the “not-so-rustic” table and benches. I built a set right when the plans came out from cypress and finished with the same CPES/Epifanes. The finish flaked severely just like your “abused” bench photos. One other important thing to note was in the presumably more wet Wisconsin outdoors, I also had significant trouble with the breadboard ends– or, where the breadboard met the main panel. I couldn’t adequately seal the end grain of the main panel there, and the breadboard gave a great crack to hold the moisture. I neglected/abused it for quite a while even when the finish had completely failed everywhere– eventually the power of the wood overpowered (broke) the breadboard connectors and she turned into quite the potato chip. So this was a case where moisture was an issue, but UV also was obviously still a major factor as well. Last summer I finally replaced the top with a homemade “fancy concrete” top that I have high hopes for. The bench tops and bench / table supports were fully sanded down and laboriously coated on ALL sides in a thick film (for a finish, at least) of UV-resistant resin (Yes, this means each piece had to be worked on at least 6 times. Per coat.). I expect the resin to yellow at least some despite the UV resistant claims, but as cypress is already pretty yellow, hopefully it won’t be too problematic. Too early to tell how the resin will work out, but I’m hoping it should be fairly durable.
Great article Marc ! I’m in JeffCo, and am still trying to learn how to use Epifanes. How much do you thin it ? I struggle with quick evaporation, then too runny, etc. Mostly western red cedar, teak, and mahogany. I’ve watched others use Total Boat epoxy, haven’t tried it yet… I have used Cabot Aussie Timber Oil for 15 years on a tiger wood deck, with excellent results. I really like your 10 points, yeah at elevation, UV is tough. Plenty of gray hair here, thanks ! -Rich
Tasmania, Australia, and we thought that a polyurethane would be good for a rough cut boarded 4 walls of Western Red Cedar. It isn’t, it’s horrible, and now we are faced with the huge chore of getting it off 🙁 Sanding is going to be horrendous and will thin the boards, stripper is out of the question, wire wheel on a grinder? Maybe just let it go and be happy when the UV takes it right off, and then give it an oil and pigment! I had no idea that the high UV here would eat through a product that swears that it is UV resistant! OK so we are close to the “Hole in the Ozone Layer” 🙁
I am making a garden gate out of some unknown, rough cut wood studs from a house built in the early 1700’s. I love the natual look of this wood and want to keep that if possible. I have not idea what type of oil or coating to place on this for outdoors. It will receive about 75% straight sunlight everyday and mid-Virginia weather. I am okay with it greying and I also like the soft amber tones that an oil finish can produce. Does anyone have any tips? The wood rings are very dense and heavy. And the studs that I am using are ~3×5″ thick.
Killer wood working projects. You are a master. Re. the clear coats in the article, just want you to know that this is the best clear coat article I have ever seen. The entire coatings industry can learn from this article. Perhaps they will think twice when they market their products as low maintenance. Again, beautiful wood work and many thanks for the real truth about clear coats and elements.
Central Pennsylvania sikkins proluxe. Table top I did has be out for about 3 years at a bar with only 2 coats next month I’m gonna clean and apply another coat. But also using a duckback product and I love it so far but needs yearly maintenance used them for my wooden truck bed. And hell yeah still looked good after 2 seasons then well it’s in a barn currently flat beds make a great table for stuff…
Really interesting article! I made a table for the patio a couple of years ago (western red cedar)! It’s made with slats and i put an oil base finish with no film on it (secondo from Prato Verde). The table is still in good shape but I have to give it a light sanding and recoat it each year. It take me less than an hour.
I have some plantation teak I’m using as a under porch cladding (similar to the porch in this article) however my roof is flat and the cladding will see minimal sun but may see some condensation as I live in humid houston, tx. Do you have a product I can look into? Preferably a oil. I’m also worried about the wood greying. The teak is a hardwood and naturally oily. Thanks in advance
Thank you I’m working on a 1950s gunstock where they most likely used boiled linseed oil I guess so I‘ve been researching OLD techniques but this is 2022 so decided I would look at newer stuff — at least new to me. Interesting that by the end you came back to the old stuff. Oil and wax and UV. Cool 😎 Ps. Also interesting that men follow #10 and women buy more UV protecting paint products….. 😹
We can’t buy Sikkens in Canada anymore but Messemer’s we can and is similar and it has been a great replacement. My exterior doors are African Mahogany and they weather fantastic without peeling because it’s a penetrating stain. South facing I do every year and the others as needed. Just like the OSMO HS it is the easiest product to finish. I use it on my outdoor timber frame and furniture as well. A second coat can be applied and wet sanded for a nice finish if liked
Marc, have you tried “washing” the greyed wood with a bleach or non-chlorine bleach solution? When I had a pool and a pressure treated deck around it, I noticed that anywhere I spilled a little chlorine, the decking looked like new again. Since then I have used a non-chlorine bleach solution to renew/ungrey outdoor furniture before refinishing – after thor ugh rinsing and drying. Works like a charm and not very labor intensive. Quick and easy.
Excellent pro strategies and analyses. As a Tucson woodworker for decades I have suffered similar strategies and failures. The Hispanic carpenters long ago recessed their wooden outside doors and windows several feet away from the sun and elements. The only finish I have found provided minimal protection from the sun and elements is pure Tung oil which needs recoating as it also degrades. Boiled linseed oil is a terrible finish – it darkens badly as it degrades. Tung oil stays the same color. No auto or wood finish survives harsh sun conditions. I like very much your informed product choices. I wish you continued success. Salud.
Excellent data. I have not been able to find this depth of empirical data anywhere else. I have a 3″ thick red cedar live edge slab I’m planning to use for an outdoor bar top. Yes, a soft wood and a flat horizontal surface to collect water, but somewhat rot resistant. I do not plan for it to last forever and I am okay with some level of maintenance. You now have me torn between going with a simple Odie’s Oil finish versus 2 coats of CPES followed by 5 coats of Epifanes high gloss and finally 2 coats of Epifanes matte. I would have thought the latter would provide better protection against the UV / moisture enemy and lower maintenance. Now I am thinking that Odie’s may lower initial cost, significantly easier, easier to maintain, and lower cost overtime. I do have a couple deep voids I am planning to fill with West System epoxy. I will also be making a cover for the table. Any thoughts / suggestions on the finish between Odie’s versus the CPES + Epifanes combo?
Thank you. I really like this article. I am afraid of UV and how it causes wood to fade, even indoor furniture that gets light through a window. But what really got my head spinning is epoxy feet that you do. How thick do you make that? Do you drill holes or do anything to make it have more surface area to stick on? What do you do to color it? I’m thinking of some of the 5 minute epoxy, like the tubes of gorilla glue epoxy that you can get in the big box store would be a really easy way to copy your idea. Do you have a article on this?
I’m building a garden wishing well for my mother out of cedar. It’s guna to get a ton of uv light cuz where she wants to put there is no shade. What finish or finishes do you recommend I use. I was thinking epoxy/spar varnish but after seeing your cedar table resto but now after perusal this vid and seeing the end result of that I’m having second thoughts. The pergola turned out amazing, how is that holding up. And is there any advice you can give me
Thanks for the review of the finished. Steve Ramsey had done a similar review of his old projects and came to the same conclusion: if you want a “maintenance-free” finish, paint it. Otherwise you’ll have to do regular upkeep if you want to maintain a certain look. He also had one outdoor project that he didn’t apply any finish to, and other than the grey weathered look, it held up really well for years, so no finish seems like the best option besides painting for less work. I see a lot of wood patio furniture reviews that are negative because people complain about the deterioration of the finish or wood because they don’t understand that wood requires maintenance.
Good stuff. I’m new to wood working and haven’t gone into the finished yet. I’m staying away as long as possible lol. It seems like with all the advancements in the world we would have a clear sealer that completely took care of the wood. This is probably a stupid question but, what about automotive clear? It’s pretty dang durable. Just thinking out loud really. I have no knowledge at all about finishes but I can paint with my HVLP sprayer like a pro. Lol.
Wow. That was a really great article. I have a couple of western red cedar Adirondack chairs that I used Watco Teak Oil on. I’ve been maintaining them yearly but it’s a pain and they still show failure even with only a few months out in the full sun/fog on the Maine coast. I was just about to switch them to a spar varnish finish but now I’m not going to because I don’t want the flakey failure that you pointed out. And yes, the epoxy on the feet is a great idea. I had come to the same conclusion that something had to be done to prevent rotting of the feet and my solution was to coat the feet with several coats of Bondo/3M wood hardener. So far, it’s worked perfectly. Thanks for the excellent article. Real world results and thorough coverage of all the considerations when selecting and using outdoor finishes.
Thanks for this article. Very informative. I have a pair of cedar Adirondacks finished in Spar Urethane (Man O’ War, from Rockler) They get a lot of UV and weather/water exposure. I refinished them last year, but wanted to get into a habit of annual maintenance. Is it overkill to put on a light coat of the spar every year or so? And what grit would you recommend to scuff up the surface before applying?
Luckily for me, I like the look of paint on some outdoor stuff–for example, an arbor for climbing (red) roses that sits near a west-facing wall, and is painted with leftover paint from my exterior trim. It looks great and is standing up well to east TX heat & moisture. Mmm, paint! (Although now I’m wondering if I should have done epoxy pads, and if it’s even possible to do that now, what with the roses being all well-stablished.)
Don’t know if you are still reviewing comments here, but in case you are, I’d like to thank you for sharing such valuable information. I only wish I had seen it when it was posted! I built a picnic table for my best friend last summer, and made the rookie mistake of finishing it with poly urethane. In hindsight, I wish I had used spar urethane (it was my first piece of outdoor furniture)!!! He bought a fancy winter cover for it, which he recently removed. He informed me that the top, which was left its natural color under the clear urethane, had several black spots on it. The seats, which were similarly finished, were fine (the rest was painted). When I went to see for myself, I believed the spots to be mildew! I’m guessing that the urethane developed micro-cracks from expansions and contractions, and the cover kept condensation against it without a chance to evaporate naturally. The seats were not affected because the cover didn’t rest on the surface. I’m going to have to sand and refinish the top, and now I’m trying to determine what’s best. I “think” this might not have happened with spar, but I’m not certain. Anyone have any experience with something like this? Or recommendations?
Excellent as Always Marc. I have learned so much from you. I always admire your talent, craftsmanship and your attention to detail I see in everything you do. Spot on agree with your assessment. I build wood whitewater kayak paddles and people just have me maintain them. They do get UV of course but the film finish gets gets broken from bashing against rocks. Abrasion from rings and boat contact. This is just cost of doing business when using a wood as opposed to a fiberglass paddle. Finishes and maximising the beauty of wood is my holy grail. Pigment is not easy for me but it does have its place. Thank You
Marc, I always wind up at your articles. I appreciate your unbiased opinions and thoughtful approach. Have you ever tried making outdoor furniture with Ipe? Just curious. I built an Ipe deck years ago and i’m amazed at how well it holds up to sun, rain, snow and neglect. I just power washed it with the highest pressure and it came out looking great and ready for oil. I’ve been considering making a table and benches with it.
Hi Marc, I’m curious if you think an epoxy cap would be a good idea for posts on pergolas/swings? I did a custom swing for some neighbors using PT 6×6 posts. The wood moisture was high at the time so I didn’t want to seal it then, but it’s been a year now. What are your thoughts on treating end grain tops?
About taking shower while sitting is the best decision your wife could have. You should do the same! Everybody should. Because… In January 2018 my mother felt during the shower. She didn’t die, fortunately, but it was a nightmare… She got bleeding inside her head, had to be hospitalized and so on. 😕 Anyway, thanks a lot for all the tips! 😃 Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I have a 12-inch wide piece of live edge cherry that I’m planning to turn into a 17-inch wide epoxy river bench. Obviously, the river will be epoxy, but I was thinking the epoxy as a total covering over the entire bench would be beneficial for preventing water and UV damage. Unfortunately I cannot find anywhere that anyone has done this, and I cannot see why it wouldn’t be a good solution.
Thanks Marc for the review of finishes. I looked at this article again as I am just about done with a cedar table and wanted to be reminded about the finishes. I’m wondering, though, how you make sure of the leveling of the epoxy feet, from the articles that I have seen you do with this technique it doesn’t look too measured or precise. Thanks in advance
Thanks for this: I’ve got a few projects in the back of my mind for outdoor uses of purpleheart (which has great properties for hot, humid, buggy east TX), and I’ve been trying to decide what to finish it with, in terms of UV protection if nothing else. Not that this answers that, but it gives me more thoughts!
Any idea how I could take new framing lumber and make it closer to the color of my 30-year-old house lumber? The older lumber doesn’t look weathered, but it’s a couple shades darker than the new stuff, making the new lumber look more like the friend who goes to the beach when he’s the one guy who’s not been out in the sun yet that year. What might work? I noticed wet wood looks more like the older wood. Maybe if I used a bit of oil? Or a very very light stain? I don’t want it to look like it’s been varnished, just not signal that “this wood has been replaced!!!”
Hello, I built outdoor shutters from cedar fence boards. I’m having a really hard time deciding on how to finish them. I don’t think I want a film finish the thought of sanding to bare wood, is a throat punch lol. If I pick an oil, can it just be applied when needed without sanding? Please and thank you!
I’m restoring some benches and I went over them with a power planer and then sanded them. They are 2×3 Douglas fir I believe. I ordered the TotalBoat penetrating epoxy wood sealer. What should I use to top coat over that? I’m looking at some marine varnish but I would be open to using a oil type finish if it will work over the epoxy. Do you have any idea if I can use something like that with the TotalBoat penetrating epoxy wood sealer? This is in central Ohio and the benches are on the side of the building that faces East.
This is interesting. I have heard of boat guys swear by epiphanes and getting 5 years outdoors with it. Boats have probably the worst environment possible with sun plus constant water/moisture and salt. I have gotten 20 yrs (letting it go a bit past prime) out of sealer on redwood mini-deck I used for some orchids. That was outdoors forever. I will be taking it apart and refinishing it this year and may look at epiphanes and maybe an epoxy undercoat to seal it from water. I have used Spar Varnish on some items but its too early to tell what the long term will bring. Except for the aforementioned redwood mini-deck I stain all my wood to one degree and tone or another. This again helps preserve visible grain and helps the wood withstand weather as well. I should be doing a new fence this year as well and that will be another experiment in this manner.
Has anyone tried the forest service wood sealer formula with mineral spirits, boiled linseed oil and wax? I’m thinking about using it on my deck. It seems to repel water very well, but I haven’t found any articles with a follow up, how often it needs to be reapplied, how you can clean the wood treated with it, and how it reacts on a deck with full sun exposure. Any advice on this is appreciated
Hey Marc,great article. Didn’t you build a Big Green Egg table?? How did that fare? I’m building a BGE table myself out of Cedar. What’s your recommendation for the finish? To be honest, I most likely won’t do any maintenance but have it covered when not in use. Also building a pergola out of Douglas Fir. Same question, what to use. Oh by the way I live in Wisconsin. Extreme cold winters and hot humid summers. Thank you 🙏🏻in advance.
Great article. Thanks. I wanted to make my Adirondack chairs out of Western Red Cedar, but I can’t find it anywhere for a reasonable price. I don’t want an $800 chair. I’ve been collecting Spanish Cedar as a substitute. Where do you get your cedar, and what do you recommend I use for a finish (outdoors in Los Alamos NM, 7200 feet). Thanks
This is incredibly helpful… years of experience in a single article! For me it comes as I’m forced to remove 8 layers of spar varnish on a slatted oak porch swing. No more spar varnish for me. It took DAYS to remove that stuff! I’m going with a penetrating oil/stain as I know the UV and rain will win out and I’ll do a simple re-application every year or two. Thanks!
Just commenting for something like the Pergola which takes to many man hours to keep refinishing with the wood look. I have a deck that is 33 years old. It is the old chromated arsenic pressure treated wood. The railings were done with Behr’s solid stain. The deck flats had to be redone every three years (4 years ago replaced with Ipe), but the railings finish lasts for 10 years. For the railings, no peeling, no issues at all and they still look great. Every 10 years just washed and re-stained, no issues. Deck is in Northeast so subjected to full sun, rain and snow. If the goal is to look decent and a minimal amount of work, you can’t beat the solid stain.
Regarding your table that came in from the cold..if you don’t allow sun or rain on about any piece of furniture it’ll be fine outside. Assuming it’s a utility piece. I’m not surprised that it held up well. I’ve had a pine or fir..I forget..table that I built 20 years ago sitting on a covered butt outdoor front porch. It looks basically the same. BTW, Your designs are excellent. Avery good article!
Wow, I wouldn’t have thought about cedar being a problem but it makes sense because it’s so soft and especially for furniture which is a bummer but there are other species I love. Thank you for sharing, I’m definitely not a fan of film finishes because I don’t want to sand back the layers to fix the piece and I don’t know oil on raw wood does the species justice. I hate stains lol but I can absolutely see why pigments work so well. This was very helpful and good food for thought
Living in the Northeast my favorite way to make outdoor furniture. Use either black locust first choice or White oak. Then I finish them with polymerized tung oil with added a UV protectant. They require very little maintenance I clean them every few years with a stiff bristled brush and spray a few coats of the tung oil on it. they all still look great natural weathering but no wood deterioration.
Out of curiosity, how many coats of Epiphanes did you use on the chairs? I built a top for a an occasional table for outdoors and, never having used Epiphanes before, followed the instructions on the can and applied 8 coats (!) It looks really nice 😆 but I’m wondering if that might have been a bit overkill?
I made a couple Adirondack chairs from cheap cedar fence pickets, so nothing special wood wise, though I was careful to use mostly clear pickets and sections. I had seen film finishes fail, so for the chairs I just used a HD penetrating oil finish with the lightest cedar pigment. They get partial sun exposure and we put them in the shed during the winter. After a couple years, I clean them with a citrus spray cleaner and do another light oil treatment; wiping it on with a rag vs saturating it with a brush. 6 years later, the chairs are just as beautiful as new. The penetrating oil is definitely the best.
I have watched a number of your articles but had never seen this before. I am in the process of re-working some wood projects in my garden and just stumbled on this article and found it to be very, very informative, thought-provoking, and just plain fun. I guess I need to re-think some of my original finishing plans based on your article which, I hope, will same me some time, money, and effort. Thanks.
So I do hardwood floors in the Denver area mostly and we use a finish called Loba Easy Finish, it’s a German company. But it’s a water based finish that’s really pretty tough because it’s made for floors so it has to withstand 10, 15, 20 years or more of people walking on it dogs on it moisture on it dirt and grime and furniture. But it has a lot of UV protectors in it because obviously it gets exposed to the sun through big windows and what not. I would be interested to see you try it even just on a little test scrap piece of wood outside or a real project just to see what your profesional opinion is on it and how well it holds up. I know it’s super durable as far as standing up to lets say a 300 pound person walking on it with hard soled shoes and not dent it or tear it up and it does work pretty good for dog claws and what not. But how would it fair outside? Anyway, if you wanted to try it out you can get some at The Masters Craft in Denver it’s only like $70 a gallon or something. They do make tougher stuff too and hybrid oil / water based finish and commercial commercial grade stuff. I’d like to see you do any review on it actually just for fun.
Hey Marc. I’m building a large planter box for my neighbor and I won’t be doing maintenance on it after I deliver it. She wants it painted white. Can you recommend a penetrating oil finish after I paint it white? Or should I use a film finish. I don’t know how penetrating finish acts on paint. Thank you so much
What’s your approach to sanding between slats? Usually there it not enough space for mechanical sander. That means sanding with sand paper. I put on a stick to keep the paper flat to side of slat. Over years have tried all those finishes. Now I have covers on table and chairs in the sun. As you indicated the pieces under shade of large live oak hold up well. Located in central Texas . Sun is the major problem.
I spent 30 years working in South Florida one of my jobs was doing what they call brightwork on yachts keeping a nice finish on teak wood where it is exposed all the elements of salt water and Sun year-round is a constant battle I like using the West system AND Epifanes best for me and I get paid to put another coat on every year
I’ve experienced the same failures using film finish with UV inhibitors on Western Red Cedar. That said, I’m building a new home with some open beam framing on the front porch, using Cedar. In your opinion what are good options for pigmented outdoor oil finishes? Thanks for any help that you can provide.
Hi Marc, After many years of making outdoor projects like Adirondack chairs and tables. The ultimate finish is no finish at all or in my opinion a penetrating finish like Thompson’s or something like it. Simpler is better for me. You’ve used many other finishes that I have not tried. But I do know that film finishes hold up for a while but as you said are difficult to refinish. Thank you again for your effort with this article I’ve been perusal you since you started making YouTube articles and you have become an excellent Woodworker.
I’m today all prepared to apply something to our 100+ year old solid oak beautiful front door. It’s been several days of work removing old finishes and cleaning with oxalic acid to “bleach” out the dark black uv appearance from a mistake application of Watco golden oak oil 3 years. With the Watco the door looks exactly how we want it…. But it seemed to degrade too fast. This is a front porch with no direct rain or sunlight, but it is exposed to a lot of humidity & cold here in Tacoma Washington. I’m looking at Helmsman Spar Varnish but very concerned with any product with urethane since stripping this in some future would be near impossible. Help
RE: penofin. Do you still feel that is the best option for your pergola? I used it on a decorative cattle panel fence in our front yard and our south facing back yard deck and am about ready to do a major maintenance. It’s held up reasonably well in the areas away from the grass in the front yard., and very poorly on the back yard deck with tons of direct sun. The deck is probably a bad example though because we made the mistake of using tigerwood and the wood itself just could not handle the Colorado weather.
One of my first builds was a red oak swing. I used spar-poly, it lasted about 2 years. I live in East texas, the swing got full west sun afternoons. I burned this project after i was hit by tornado 2years ago this last weekend. A lot of work, I’ll buy one next time and replace it as it rots. Love the show. Started perusal when i bought my powermatic 66 tablet saw. Thanks for the vids
Hi 👋 I’m brand new to woodworking and I’m starting my first proper outdoor project…someone told me that it’s best to use an anti-fungal wash 🧼 to treat the wood before starting the finishing process…would you recommend this ? My project is a raised flower stand made with Iriko legs and Sapela body…🤓👍
I really appreciate the open and honest commentary you give in the article, and I think you’re spot on that not every finish is perfect for one thing or another. After several decades of woodworking and using everything from exterior polyurethane to oil-based finishes I agree that thinking about the material and using a non film forming finish usually results in the best long-term experience. 👊🏻
a fun experiment would be to use something like a Howard’s “Feed-N-Wax” and apply every couple months. It’s naturally water repellent, and you’re not going to get the flaky nastiness with basically everything you’ve shown. I have no clue if it would stand up… but just saying since you’re doing these experiments/updates, and pretty much everything you use is some sort of synthetic poly… would be curious how a wax/oil would hold up if applied monthly or every other month.
Issues with patreon. My issues are on going with Patreon. I have had to change my debit cards several times over, for the price of shopping online. I forget to update my patreon account. Then when I go to send a message it won’t let me because the account card on file failed to perform on the 1st of the month. I was hoping yall could find a different type of contribution method. I’m getting older and have more medical issues so my memory isn’t as good as it used to be LOL.
What a great informative article. I just refinished a teak garden bench for the 3rd time this week. General finishes outdoor oil held up the best for me so far, but this year I’m trying Watco Teak oil. They take full sun for at least half a day. (In NC) If I can 2 years out of the Watco I’m a happy camper.
Interestingly, we have had exactly the same experience here in Colorado with the CPES/Epifanes system. Based on the outstanding results on our front door (oak) back in 2010, which has direct eastern exposure, I used it on some cedar accents on our new house in 2014. The finish had failed completely by 2019. It’s all ladder work, but desperately needs to be redone. As a result, for the front door in this house (CVG fir, west facing, but somewhat protected by porch) we used the Waterlox Marine system this time. After two years, it’s looking excellent. We also have a redwood fence that we were slow to finish. Used an oil-based semi-transparent penetrating finish. Two years in, it’s still OK. I need to try to do a recoat this summer, but it’s looking promising. After all this, I tend to agree that the species matters more than we think. The point of the CPES is that it is supposed to protect the wood when the coating develops the inevitable microcracks. But, if the wood is too soft or porous and the CPES fails, the coating can’t survive.
I’ve had the chance to use this table a couple of times now. It’s fun to whip out in front of people:) I can see what people are talking about when they say the legs are delicate, but they’re design to support a “mostly” vertical load, not be torqued from the side or pushed back into place. If you just let the table open or close on it’s own and don’t force anything, it works great youtube.com/post/UgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh Once it’s set up, it’s pretty solid. My only gripe would probably be related to the clamps provided. They’re not the highest quality. They do the job, so no big deal, but they could be better. All in all, pretty cool gadget.
Reducing epoxy always extends the cure. You can offset this by adding additional hardener. When you reduce you are adding additional base components which is why the reaction is significantly slowed. For instance, polyester resins harden because of a molecular chain reaction. You need enough resin and hardener to complete the reaction for a period of time. When reducing polyester additional hardener is needed to offset the additional volume of ketones added to thin.. Or even filler to thicken. Epoxy works differently as the hardener reacts with with acetone and two phenol molecules. By adding additional acetone to epoxy you actually added base to the mix. Epoxy works on cross linked hydrogen atoms. The additional acetone present prevents the cross link until evaporation or it is absorbed. Next time add more hardener… Play with a small amount of the specific resin to learn how it cuts with acetone. Hope this helps in the future. Thanks for your articles.
A couple of comments from someone who has maintained natural wood surfaces on boats: 1) even with the sealing, filling and 5-7 coats of spar varnish, if the table stays outside, it should be cleaned, sanded and recoated every one to three years with the Epiphaned, depending on conditions, if not, you will find it gradually descending to an unacceptable place again, but now with cracks partially filled with epoxy. 2) when applying a crack-filling coat of epoxy, you can save substantial material and substantial sanding time by applying with a flexible squeegee and a little pressure, the more leveling you want to do, the stiffer the squeegee.
That high altitude sun is no joke. I lived outside of Denver for a number of years, quite a bit higher in elevation, and everything left outside weathered way way faster than expected. For outdoor tables and benches we just used a deck sealer every year in the spring. Every single year in the spring everything made of wood, outside, that we cared about would get a good coat of water based wood sealer. These things would grey and check but would not warp or rot at all. you have to have different expectations for outdoor wood furniture
if that a been me…when I sloshed that epoxy all over the top and tried to sand that rock hard mess it would made a me fall off the wagon and enter a booze infused weekend of poorly lit bars and gray haired barflys speckled with skintags all mishmashed into loud music and vague attempts at dancing ending in a cheap motel sunday morning with an aching head with no recollections of how the sheets wound up ont on the floor..your a better man then me..I’m glad you held it all together
Let me share with you what I learned back in the mid 70’s as far as finishes that withstand weather and in particular the dreaded ultra violet rays that cause finishes to break down and also wood to discolor and break down. This started with a job that I got from a man who started his own company on the side from his regular job working at the Chrysler Auto trim plant. For the finish on the speaker cabinets he contracted me to build he specified Tung Oil to be used as the finish. He also gave me a education about Tung Oil, it being a natural product from the nut from the Tung tree that is native to China. Tung Oil is sold under many different kinds of finish and you have to read the can to find the right finish. Seems that most of the finish companies mix Tung Oil with other types of finish then market it as Tung Oil, which it is not anymore. This was critical to my client as he wanted a durable finish that would last for years without the common problem of being exposed to ultraviolet rays and temperature changes. Because of his regular job at the Chrysler auto trim plant he used all the finishes applied to wood and exposed them to weather in the climate chamber they used there to test interior and exterior trim materials to determine what holds up to different weather conditions from all over the surface of the Earth. He brought in a wide variety of samples he had tested and only Tung Oil was unaffected by all conditions in the climate chamber. The key here is to make sure you are using “pure” Tung Oil and not a mixture of several other finishing materials mixed in with Tung Oil.
What I like best about this, the child was inserted and you let him help. I see tons of parents tell their kids no, it’s too hard or your too young, so the kids lose interest. Who knows, your son may end up growing up to be a contractor because he was inspired as a kid to learn how to handle wood. Good for you.
Good job Marc, have the same problem with an outdoor table and was thinking about the same approach you took with epoxy and coating, but taking the lessons learned into account. Would be useful to see a quick follow up a few years later on the table. Would that be possible? Many thanks and best from Europe.
What are your experiences with Spar Urethane? I’m considering making some outdoor oversized 9×9 Go Boards (about 3′ by 3′) for kids, and I’m trying to decide what finish I should use on something like this. I’m going to use a yellow solid wood-stain, so I think I will make these out of 3/4″ birch plywood.
The problem with your method is that you are locking the breathe out of the wood. It’s fine for a stable environment but anything in the garden or subject to atmospheric changes will bust your method to pieces. The changes in temperature will cause any wood to expand or contract ane you epoxy will crack allowing all kinds of moisture and contaminants in. You make a good article but you really need to brush up on your wood science knowledge.
I worked in a hardware store years back and almost NO ONE re-varnishes outdoor wood when it needs it. You know those glistening teak and mahogany decks on those mult-million dollar yachts? The best $100+ per gallon varnish needs to be applied sometimes twice a year to maintain that look. You put on 5-8 coats and the weather strips off the top 3 or 4 coats in a matter of months. Then you scuff the entire deck and re-apply 3 or 4 more coats. Sad but true.
That does look great! Its nice to see how you fill the voids and how bad it looks until you start sanding, because if I tried that I would have been freaking out before hitting the project with a sander! Question: You mention you originally finished with teak oil. If you had been diligent and re-applied teak oil yearly, do you think it would have held up? How much of a pain to re-finish will this be? A simple sand then a few more coats down the road (assuming it doesn’t go too far past the lifespan of the finish)?
I built a farmhouse table out of pine, similar to this top, not near to this level or craftsmanship. I had trouble with the long boards pulling apart on the seams. Just wondering how you attached the bread boards to the rest of the top? I understand my technique was flawed, but just wanted to know the right way for future tables like this. Thanks
If you are going to go through the trouble/hassle of using epoxy as a base/sealer, I recommend MAS epoxies. They are specifically formulated for amatuer boat builders and the results are professional. They have three different cure durations from very fast kicking to very slow. For a base/sealer, I’d go with a very fast setting batch. Thin with 10-15% acetone or de-natured alcohol (preferred, because you clean up with it). A 15% dilution will flow on like very warm honey and soak in well. Your wood is now water proof – not just resistant. Cover coat with something that is UV resistant. UV is death to epoxy. Maintain the finish coat by light sanding before recoat. Do not sand away the epoxy, or you’ll have to spot treat. For a really tough surface, wait til the sealer coat is cured, then apply a heavy coat of epoxy mixed for glass work. Roll on your #6oz fiberglass cloth ansd squeegie it down flat, pulling the wribnkles out as you go. Apply another heavy coat of epoxy and squeegie that off by movingiot around teh table til the fiberglass become invisible. Wait to cure, then sand to a powdery surface and wipe with denatured alcohol. Coat with UV resistant varnish . You now have an indestructible, transparent surface that is easy to mainatin and you don’t have to worry about water intrusion – ever.
lol Marc…. when you were laying the epoxy on that table…. i was so shocked haha. i assume that took a hefty few hours and many sheets of sandpaper even with your rotex. came out beautifully tho. the darkened epoxy looks great. and that table is gonna have a nice little challenge trying to shrink more over time lol
Ahhh … your refinish failed because you upset the Epifanes coating by mispronouncing the name. 😄 Epi-fah-nes is a closer pronunciation. … TotalBoat products are great, so I’m concerned that it took about a week to cure for you. It shouldn’t have taken that long. Andy Miller of BoatWorks Today has had great success with their products.