This guide provides a comprehensive list of the top 11 types of exterior house siding, including vinyl, wood, fiber cement, brick, and more. Vinyl siding is an affordable option that closely resembles wood, providing protection from sun, rain, wind, and temperature extremes while playing a significant role in overall appearance. The top 10 siding options for homes are based on cost, quality, durability, weather-resistance, colors, and more.
Pine and cedar are the two main wood species used for exterior siding, with each type having a color true to its name. Wood siding is known for its above-average aesthetic appeal, versatility, and durability. Home siding material is the protective and decorative cladding that covers the exterior of a home or other building. The code required clearance above grade for wood and Hardie siding is 6 to 8 inches.
Brick veneer with a clear airspace is another popular choice for exterior cladding or wall covering. Board and batten siding is a type of exterior cladding or wall covering that consists of wide boards with narrow strips. Its composition makes it incredibly resistant to heat, UV rays, and fire. Vinyl siding doesn’t change its shape or color in above-average conditions.
Siding exposure, also known as the reveal, is the visible space between the bottoms of adjacent rows of siding. To correct an uneven wall, use furring strips (and wood shims if necessary) to eliminate low spots. However, rigid sheathing must be applied over furring.
📹 Let’s Talk Siding | Comparing pros and cons of most common siding types
With so many options for exterior cladding on the market today, it can sometimes be hard to know what’s the best option for the …
What is the least expensive type of siding?
Vinyl siding is a budget-friendly and low-maintenance option for homeowners looking to maximize value. It doesn’t require regular scraping or repainting, as the color runs through the entire material, making it resistant to chips, peels, or fades. Vinyl siding is designed to withstand Illinois’ tough climate, including heavy snowfalls and summer heatwaves, without warping or cracking. Apex Exteriors offers vinyl siding installation and replacement services to ensure your home or business looks great and has the protection it needs.
Aluminum siding is a durable and weather-resistant option for property owners seeking a durable option that can handle extreme weather conditions. While slightly more expensive than vinyl, aluminum offers various benefits, especially for commercial buildings and homes in areas prone to severe weather. Apex Exteriors’ expert team will guide you through the selection process, helping you find the perfect style to match your property’s aesthetic.
What are the three types of siding?
The three major types of board siding are lap siding, board and batten siding, and drop channel siding. The choice depends on the climate and home architecture. Some types are better for hot climates, while others are better for cold areas. Consulting siding professionals can help determine the ideal siding for your home. Brick and manufactured siding are the most durable types, but other types are also durable and long-lasting. The choice of siding depends on the climate and home’s architecture.
What is the standard height of siding?
Clapboard siding, also known as weatherboard or bevel siding, is a traditional exterior cladding method with long, horizontal planks of wood or wood imitations. These planks overlap, shielding the building from rain and wind. This overlapping design effectively sheds water, making it popular in wet climates. Clapboard siding is available in various materials like wood, vinyl, and fiber cement. Its classic, horizontal lines range from rustic to refined, lending a timeless aesthetic to both historical and modern homes.
What siding has the least maintenance?
Vinyl siding is a popular choice due to its minimal maintenance and durability. It can be easily colored and does not chip away over time, but fading is a concern unless damaged. If fading cannot be replaced, it is best to replace the entire house. However, damage can occur in severe weather and high temperatures, which can warp the material over time. Vinyl siding can be recycled, but finding recycling centers can be challenging.
Modified wood siding, treated with chemicals, heat, or biochemicals, is a harder, durable, and attractive option for those who prefer wood siding. Contact your local Squeegee Squad for more information.
How high should siding be above grade?
Vinyl siding should be 6-8 inches above the ground for optimal foundation exposure, which prevents water from intruding into the building during heavy rains. If this is not possible, any clearance is better than none. This extra clearance makes it easier to detect termites and other pests. Wood siding typically needs 8 inches of clearance, allowing it to dry thoroughly after rains and prevent premature damage. Wood siding can last 20-40 years with proper maintenance, including paint, finish, sealants, and water exposure.
To protect it, it is essential to provide proper maintenance and ensure the siding is installed correctly by choosing the right company. Proper maintenance and proper installation can help ensure the longevity of your home.
What is premium vs standard siding?
Vinyl siding is a popular choice due to its durability, color retention, and resistance to fading from UV light and oxidation. Thicker vinyl siding, typically between 0. 040 and 0. 046 inches, is considered premium-grade and offers better resistance to extreme weather conditions. Higher quality siding with a thickness of 0. 046 inches or greater is generally more durable and comes with a longer warranty.
To prevent color fading, choosing lighter colors and installing shading devices can help. Reputable brands offer warranties ranging from limited lifetime to 50-year warranties, covering manufacturing defects and workmanship issues.
What is the most common siding on a house?
The Census Bureau’s Survey of Construction (SOC) shows stucco as the most common principal siding material for new single-family homes started in 2023. Other common materials include vinyl siding (25. 6), fiber cement siding (21. 7), and brick or brick veneer (18. 5). Small shares of single-family homes started last year had wood or wood products (5. 1) and stone, rock, or other stone materials (1. 2) as the principal exterior wall material.
What is most expensive exterior siding?
The average cost to replace siding in 2024 is around $11, 503, with most projects ranging between $5, 570 to $17, 595 for materials and installation. Brick is the most expensive option at $10-20 per square foot, while wood, engineered wood, and vinyl siding are the least expensive. HomeGuide. com estimates costs for siding replacement based on the chosen material and home size, with additional costs of $0. 70 to $2. 00 per square foot. Wood siding offers a classic look and curb appeal, but it is highly flammable, which can lead to worse outcomes in house fires.
Which siding increase home value?
Brick and steel siding can increase a home’s value due to their durability but may not be as appealing as modern options. Fiber cement offers a combination of durability, long-lasting, and aesthetically appealing options, with a wide range of designs including lap, shake, and stylish panels. Allura Fiber Cement Siding offers exceptional value by providing curb appeal and practical protection against elements. With its variety of styles and colors, Allura can bring your vision for a new exterior to life.
The Spectrum® Finishing System ensures a flawless factory finish, eliminating the need for on-site painting. Overall, fiber cement siding offers a versatile and practical solution for home improvement.
What is the best siding to increase home value?
Fiber cement siding is a durable and versatile material that can increase home value over vinyl. The color of your siding plays a crucial role in boosting property value and curb appeal. The right color can significantly impact potential buyers, enhance your home’s market value, and impact its energy efficiency. Metal siding, vinyl siding, and stone veneer are different materials and styles. To maximize your home’s value, consider choosing a color that sets the mood and style of your property, evokes specific emotions, and influences buyers’ perceptions. While personal preferences are important, considering timeless colors is crucial for maximizing your home’s value.
📹 #Siding a House: Tips to Install like a PRO
This video is all about how we start siding a house to be as efficient as possible and give our client the best end result. I share with …
I started out in carpentry working for a siding installer on new housing. At the time aluminum siding was pretty much the standard (yes, I’m THAT old)! Eventually having my own crew I was given the task of being the first in my area to install fiber cement siding. Being a brand new product at the time the supplier had me use standard carbide tooth framing blades to cut the siding and “Maze” nails to attach it to the walls. (double dipped galvanized nails) the type used for installing cedar siding. I would get 1 or 2 days use out of a blade before they were ruined and hand nailing would generally take 2 or 3 nails just to get through the boards. I asked about pre-drilling and was told it would void the warranty. Needless to say the job took forever and I never wanted to see the stuff again! Another great, informative article. I’ve always felt that you never stop learning and I think you guys do a great job of explaining to everyone how things work and how to do things well. Keep up the good work!
I priced out LP smartside vs Hardiboard (fiber cement) and the hardy panels were significantly cheaper per sqft (Denver foothills, different region than you guys). I agree the fiber cement board is much harder to nail, which is why we went with sheets+battons vs traditional boards. How is the fire resistance of the LP smartside vs cement board? That was another deciding factor for us, wildfire risk is crazy here.
We just finished siding a tiny house with fiber cement board. The non-profit we helped with this project gets a break on their insurance due to fiber cement being fireproof. You’d think that would be a MAJOR plus in your area due to the abundant vegetation. I can’t stand installing fiber cement due to the dust in cutting, brittleness, weight, etc., but it does have it’s place.
I was definitely wondering about that siding. All I could think of was OSB and it just seemed like that stuff would suck up water, expand and disintegrate! Thanks for going in to greater depth as to why it does NOT do that. Then again, it is wood and it is glued together. What’s the longest time frame you’ve seen this siding on a house and how is it holding up? Thanks.
Just a friendly observation and a question. Matt Risinger (a high quality builder in Austin TX who also has a YouTube website) has done some comparisons of siding options. He comes down on the exact opposite side of the debate between fiber cement and LP SmartSide. Here are two issues that I think PBB is not fully considering (I say this with respect and not to nitpick…I love your website). First, SmartSide is relatively new, and it is a wood-based product. The track record for this product is fairly short at the moment. It is not obvious that the performance of a wood-based product will be as good as a fiber cement product (or even close to it). Building science comes down firmly on the side of fiber cement lasting much longer than a wood-based product (and there is literally no disagreement about it). Second, any homeowner I know will opt for slightly higher installation cost to get greater durability, a longer track record of proven performance, and better life-cycle performance. What I mean by life-cycle performance is that fiber cement runs almost no risk of needing replacement for the life of a home, while SmartSide almost definitely runs the risk of needing replacement during the life of a home. Although it will be tempting to agree with this post by saying “all true” but the cost is greater for fiber cement than SmartSide, the question is “how much greater?” So, maybe a “concrete” answer to this question is possible. On the Nantahala Retreat, what did you price out for siding using SmartSide (labor and materials) and what would you have priced out for using fiber cement (labor and materials) (setting aside the sponsoring arrangement from LP)?
Of the choices shown I have to go with solid cedar claps, pre-primed, then oil primed on cut ends. Two coats of really good paint. To prevent short, under window pieces a story board angled. But my favorite is cedar shakes and even better from a fun to install siding– cedar hand splits. They aren’t the cheapest but the most satisfying from a carpenter’s perspective. All done with the production end of building. I’m in it for the art of the trade.
The tide of this comments section illustrates the classic problem of sponsored articles. Build a website on good content, build rapport with audience, try to figure out how to take $ without alienating the audience. Suggestions: play long game, don’t take money, keep your dignity, it will pay off eventually (Andrew Camarata). Only sponsor a really good product you don’t have to make excuses for (that water “test” was rigged). Only sponsor stuff outside the building realm (Keeps, Athletic Greens, etc…) That being said, love the website.
Have you ever considered “CertainTeed Cedar Impressions Double 7″ staggered shingles” ? It is polymer and is significantly stronger than standard vinyl. It looks like wood and resists fading. I covered my home with it eight years ago and it still looks new and has required only annual pressure washer cleaning.
Lp smartside is trash. These guys are obviously sponsered/getting kickbacks whatever good for them, but cement board is way better. Smartside is literally just painted osb. Its absolute hot garbage and completely overpriced. Go with cement board it is easily a 60+ year product, conservatively. I’ve had a few peices of cement board laying on my property in the woods for over two years, it is completely unpainted and it has not detortiated at all. You can not do the same with painted osb aka “smartside” its a rebranded low cost T-111.
So we had some cement boards leftover that sat outside for at least 4-5 years, exposed and we have zero water saturation into the board. They come preprimed so I don’t see the issue. Also, some were broken and still did not soak up water like a sponge in few seconds as you presented, that makes me wonder what cement board was that? We have cement siding on our house for over 15 years now and it is great so far. Paint stays on it super long and it doesn’t peel off like on other siding. 15 years now and still there was no need for repainting, and that is huge saving right there. Also, I have never ever met anyone saying concrete siding LOL.
Excellent piece boys. I installed Hardie siding on my house. Pro’s: Insect, fire & hail resistant. Easy to paint Dead straight on all dimensions Comes in various widths & textures: smooth or woodgrain Can be ordered pre-painted & or primed on the back as well. Doesn’t require a forest of trees to make. >> Cons: Like you mentioned: Heavy, dusty, brittle & requires special tools & equipment to cut install & protect your lungs. >> One of the best things about this product is that you can easily paint it again & again & it never peels. Vinyl siding fades like crazy, so when it does, you have to either leave it or paint it, which doesn’t work well. Not a fun material to install, but I’m glad I did.
Currently remodeling a house I own in Indiana, 30×30 house with 30×14 addition which wasn’t finished over ten years ago. Main house is around 100 years old with wood siding, addition had some vinyl siding on Southern side, but East and west sides were left with house wrap. Sure you can guess how it looks now. Problem is, wood siding isn’t level in appearance looking at house, everyone is telling me to paint house and add siding to addition. I want to pull everything down and install new sheathing and siding. I’m thinking blue vinyl siding because finished house value will be around $90,000 to $100,000 and will likely be sold.
Being a commercial painter for over 40 years in an area where we get 8″ of Rain year, one thing I know of all the sidings. Cedar does not seem to rot. Cedar siding seems to last the longest in wet environment. Areas where a lot of rain comes, southeast side of house with big wall, I see the water running down the wall as if a hose was running. In my experience the siding that is pressed together, areas that are cut tend to swell. The concrete seems to break down. Like I said this is a very wet environment. Cedar is king
I work for a builder here in Ontario, mostly we use vinyl for the cost. It’s what I prefer to use and the only thing I’d use if I was to build my own house. I’ll admit that I’ve never used smartside lap siding, but I’ve used the smartside sheets, if you don’t treat the edge and it finds moisture it turns to mush. Likewise with fiber cement siding, in fact the brand we used voids your warranty if you don’t paint every edge, so one person comes and cuts one hole without painting the edge, and it can void your warranty. And talk about fragile. To me vinyl is just cheap, simple, easily fixed and maintenance free, it also isn’t whatsoever affected by water. All things that I care about
Not really a very good comparison as the fibre board product ends are supposed to be sealed as per manufacturers spec (as does any cut LP SmartSide) & crucially you didn’t look at the longer term cost of having to repaint & repair different systems. I get that the osb siding is easier to install but it presumably also burns (there’s to be a speciality LP 1 & 2 hr fire resistant version which you don’t cover). I love your articles & work but this isn’t to your normal standard & in the UK, Australia & elsewhere this would have to have some sort of advertising or commercial relationship disclaimer.
Here in the Faroe Islands, the most popular choice is 22mm pressure treated fir for our siding. I have seen OSB siding, like the smart siding kind, but that gets soaking wet with all the rain we have here. So the pressure treated fir is probably the safest and cheapest siding you can have here, it also withstands the many hurricanes and heavy storms we have.
Haha that picture of the siding near the grill reminded me of the huge bonfire that I had and it destroyed a 15′ by 20′ section of my siding.. I just remembered looking at it a few weeks later and going… How in the heck did that happen.. There may or may not have been a few magical sodas involved with that bonfire lol…
What is the lawsuit for LP siding? Why Is LP Siding Bad? Louisiana Pacific ended up paying out nearly one billion dollars to over 129,000 different claims. There was a massive recall and the LP itself has referred to the event as “one of the largest class-action lawsuits in the history of the siding industry.
Correct me if I am wrong but a simple online search of this product indicates the smart side siding was the subject of class action lawsuits, and the products were to be discontinued by the end 2022. Are you unaware? Anyone can confirm this in 5 minutes. Go take a look. I read that the company had plans to relaunch at some point with presumably better products . Perhaps you are showing a new and improved version? I am no expert, but f I was giving public info about a product I personally endorsed, i would be at pains to explain why I endorsed it given the collpase of consumer confidence in the product brand. At least thats what my sjort investigation leads me to believe. Not addressing that seems like a huge red flag. Or perhaps google searches show biased info as the top results. Educate me….
Why are your wooden siding boards so thin and fragile? Are these a good representation of what you have to work with? Here in NZ a vast majority of our housing (50-90 years old) is clad in wooden siding boards that are very durable – orders of magnitude more than what you featured here. Even the ‘newer’ pine, WR cedar and accoya siding (as opposed to the now exhausted native slow growth timber supply) is considerably more durable than the board you showed.
I love you guys but I feel like just watched a biased tv commercial. You had cons for every product except what you are pushing. I hope this isn’t the future of your YouTube articles. Being a business owner I understand the revenue but please don’t sell out and start pushing products rather than providing honest reviews. Thanks guys.
Loving the article and input from you guys. My only question is – your opinions are coming from a builder’s perspective (obviously). What about the durability and longevity that the homeowner will eventually deal with? For example, if you just started using the newer LP smart side, how do you know how it performs 15 years down the road?
I love perusal your website, but any of these articles where the website is sponsored by the “favourite”, is always going to be an infomercial. Appreciate this was product was used prior to partnering, but nonetheless. As others have said, one MAJOR drawback to fibre cement would have to be the dust generated when cutting and its links to silicosis. Even with the recommended safety PPE, not using would have to be better for you
I love your articles. You guys have a great team. I am in the process of designing, and eventually building, my own house. I have learned a lot from you guys and want to follow a lot of your building practices. Do you guys get kick backs from referrals? There is a really good chance I will be using the pre finished LP smart side for my siding and would love to help support your website.
Vinyl siding cuts well with a regular carbide blade if you flip the blade around backwards. Smart siding is by far my favorite option for the price and durability. Just used their t1-11 style 4×8 panels on our off-grid cabin here in Hawai’i. We get tons of rain here so the Smart Side water and mildew resistance is a huge advantage!
I live in Ohio. And by the way that is not vinyl siding is vinyl soffit Eric. And here vinyl siding is the most common reason why, unlike central and southern states it is not as hot so it doesn’t melt easily. And lasts longer then any wood siding because the extreme cold weather beats the wood and paint real quick. So yeah and if you do a good installation with a cheap vinyl you can get like 20-25 years easily. Here where I live and I’m pretty sure everywhere else is a new vinyl siding that looks exactly like that lp smart side and it’s got like a 50 warranty looks really good and is very easy to install since it doesn’t expand and contract like regular vinyl siding.
Around here .. Eastern Canada. Vinyl is still fairly common on older houses but generally larger cities have limited it’s use because it looks so cheap – it takes away from the urban quality of a lot of neighborhoods. For the most part it’s reserved for the sides and rear of the house. Our ‘affordable’ wood siding products like Maibec/Cape cod style siding are already profiled from the mill and painted. Very rarely do I see houses being painted on site. Like the LP smart side, manufacturers give you a bit of touch up paint for ends/cuts. It was funny to me when I started perusal your article that you have to calculate the lap of the siding because here, even on a traditional looking profile lap, there is a lip and the siding just butts up to the next piece with no need to figure out the exact spacing. Cool to see the regional differences! Love the articles, very informative. Thanks!
Any thought of including steel siding in a comparison? It obviously has a warehouse / commercial building vibe, but I’ve seen it look slick and it seems to offer a lot of the same benefits of these at a lower pricepoint. At the very least it might be interesting to use as a comparison plus it’s more content 😉 Love the articles PBB!
So I am just curious if when a sponsor like LP provides the material for your project, do they give them to you at a discount or do they actually give them to you for the project in exchange for showcasing their product? Since you are building this for a client, does this discount help your client at all, just curious? Thank you guys, love the website!
40 years ago my brother and I replaced About 60 sq ft of wood siding with OSB on our parents house. We just bought a few 4×8 sheets, ripped them, installed and painted them. Well I ended up inheriting the house and just replaced it last summer. Now that was OSB from 40 yrs ago. I am considering residing the entire house and am liking the LP best so far. Good article and nice to hear it is different than OSB.
You forgot to talk about how you need to wear an n95 mask when cutting fiber cement, since the dust is a carcinogen. I’m using it for my backyard workshop build because I got it for very cheap, will last a long time and looks good. I bought a cutting shear for my drill to make most of the cuts, it does minimize the dust but I still wear a mask. It is harder to get a nice clean edge compared to wood. I installed a 16″ wide, 12ft panel by myself and it is not easy. Set up a ladder or something to hold one end in the correct place while you nail the other. Shorter profiles you can use the Gecko Gauges to hold in place. All fiber cement siding needs to be carried vertically with the edge up. the 5/16″ is more sturdy than the 1/4″. Nailing is also tricky on the thin panels. I can’t imagine hand nailing it, a nail gun is a must. I would have used LP siding if it was available as much as fiber cement is here. I got a great deal on craigslist and the Habitat Restore.
It’s really unfortunate you haven’t changed your opinion on LP. You haven’t read the warranties and how easily they’re invalidated. You also have to realize it isn’t painted by LP, they sub that out – so anyone who has that on their house will have separate warranties. Finally, LP is as likely to cause cancer as Hardy. And it rots, whereas Hardy doesn’t. But I live in the NW where that immediately invalidates ALL warranties, so I’m pretty biased against it. ***Oh, and they SAY it’s termite resistant, but their warranty doesn’t cover termite damage. So I’m sure it’s easier for contractors to use, but long term, it’s a horrible option for your clients.
Wow. That was a super biased review. Put the LP in the same situation as the wet corner where the fiber cement board “flaked off” and it won’t fare any better. The water absorption test is absolutely ridiculous. It allows latex paint to bond extremely well. Don’t you paint your fiber cement houses? How about fire resistance? I could go on and on. Yes, LP is a little easier to install properly for the inexperienced. That does not make it a better product. Quite the carnival salesman.
I definitely agree with your preparation being a huge part of completion. The rotary laser, chalk lines, story pole, perfect sided, and spacing tool were all amazing. I came to this article and your website to learn how to reinstall a few pieces of vinyl siding after our new exposed aggregate patio. Can’t wait to learn more from you and your website. Can’t say enough I dig your detailed preparation. And even your precision in nails every 8″.
The saying goes “An ounce of prevention, is worth a pound of cure”. I used to tell my techs, “10 minutes on the front will save you 30 on the back”. Whatever idiom you need to sink it in, its worth it. Love the work you do. Y’all are always busy. Wish you were down in Missouri, I’d be glad to have you build something for my family.
Great article Kyle! I would personally ditch that stabila level and make a story stick out of a straight 1×4. Before you install your corners, you can screw your story stick to the wall flush to the outside corner. If you have the layout on both sides of your story stick, you can layout both sides at the same time. Not only is this much faster, and more accurate than moving a shorter stick to multiple locations, but your corners will always line up! 😁👍🏼
Great job guys! I really enjoy your articles. No gonna lie though, a lack of redundancy with waterproofing makes me nervous (i.e just relying on the epoxy-coated sheathing system and not adding a WRB that also breaks up surface tension to let moisture drain out). I was a sub doing stucco remediation for a big builder on the east coast. We were taught by 3rd party engineers to have redundancy in all our waterproofing methods. Just a comment, not a rebuke! would love to hear your perspective. Cheers!
In my state siding installer is required to take out building & electrical permits. Which makes sense. How many times have you seen meter trough pulled from house to install siding. Than half ass re-installed. Breaching the water seal originally done by electrician. To re-install properly the meter needs to be opened and screwed down. Otherwise water can make its way into the meter and main panel. I’ve seen this time and time again.
Make a article for a vertical Tand G siding. I am a siding subcontractor for 35 years and I am doing a vertical 1×6 Tand G mahogany not cedar because the clear cedar costs way more than the mahogany But my guys are having trouble around the windows. They can’t line up their tongues and grooves after the windows. Follow? There s no room for error. The LP siding allows you to simply cover over any difference.
Is it common in the states to not have mitred corners and or box corners over the top of the corners with scribers running along them? We wouldn’t be allowed to do weatherboards like this where I’m from. no scribers next to the joinery? Are all the gaps caulked? Seems odd considering silicone doesn’t last forever? Wasn’t sure what you were referring to with your products on the horizontal joins but they sound interesting, I would love to hear fro someone else who lives state side 😊
How would you compare the Expert Finish of the LP Lap siding versus upgrading to the Diamond Kote? Also I’ll be doing SIP walls from Enercept, and the sheathing doesn’t come with a WRB like the WeatherLogic, what would you recommend for a solid house wrap that would help with water management without necessarily having to install a separate rainscreen? I’ve seen Benjamin Obdyke Hydrogap or I know Tyvek has upgraded wraps, etc. Thanks!
You are so inspiring Kyle!! Congratulations on your 1m+ subscribers!!We loved meeting you in Orlando last year. You were very gracious with your time!! Btw, Grant and I are now posting more restoration/tips articles on our website Tennessee Trailworx. We could only pray to teach your level of success!!
I like the use of the reference line and story pole method. In fact it makes sense to use a level as the story pole to keep the marks true. I can definitely see how this would make the whole process quicker and more accurate in running the siding! Thanks for sharing this one, Kyle. It doesn’t take much to get off a little on that center line around any building for it make it look bad! This just makes sense!
On that aluminum flashing to concrete, I would have put a little calking on the bottom to keep the dust and little pebbles out. It’s easy to get crap stuck in between when pressure washing. I’m shocked that Greg didn’t do the 8″ nail spacing and you were already about 4′ up the wall when that happened. Glad you were able to show him what 8″ looks like 🙂 You should put a mike on Greg. I’d like to hear him roust you every know and then.
I like the fasteners and the joints of the smart side. The joints of siding are one of the first things to show damage swelling from moister! They definitely have developed a good system for their siding to deal with moisture that siding will inevitably be exposed to over the years. I think one of the biggest things I like is you can get pre-painted Smart siding and trim that will last for a long time. I like the fact that they remove a huge labor burden of painting!
LP Smart Siding is the siding contractors use because it’s cheap, easy to work with, and won’t start looking terrible until a few years later, when they are no longer liable for it. LP Smart siding was designed with contractors in mind, not the home owner. It’s easy to cut, lighter, less delicate when working with it, cheaper, comes in longer lengths ( so less cuts ), and looks great on day 1. Unfortunately, it’s basically particle board and is notorious for taking on water and rotting. It’s meant to to be lighter on the contractor’s pocket in both material and labor cost, and present well. The drawbacks are passed onto the client. Do yourself a favor and avoid any contractor that uses LP smart siding. It’s glorified cardboard. Look up some articles here on Youtube of homeowners and their 5-10 year issues with LP smart siding. Installed properly, but still taking on water and becoming like a sponge within 10 years. It’s like masonite siding all over again.
Awesome vid. Thank you! I see that you butted your siding directly up to your window trim. Versus installing the siding first and overlapping the trim afterwards. I have heard some people mention water/moisture concerns with this approach… can you comment or do a article talking more about the trim details…. around windows/doors, inside and outside wall corners, top of wall detail. That would be amazing. Great website!
You do top of the line work! Although you may want to do your research on LP Smart siding vs concrete board. LP has a huge history of failure!!!!!! The most typical installation problem with LP SmartSide is the missing paint at the ripped, cut, sliced edge, butt joint, and cut edge just above the roof and window.
This is for Kyle. I’ve done literally square miles of lap siding and you can go around every window every time making only one notched piece at the bottom. All the rest are just regular cuts. To do that you need to make it on your story board first. I invented or should say inherited this system doing Hardie lap side because I hated notching hardie because of the dust. Now that we don’t do hardie anymore ( I kinda feel sorry for James hardie) I realize how forgiving lap siding in general is compared to almost every other style sidings that HAVE TO line up exactly after every window. Nice job skip. Remember it doesn’t take 8 hours to do 8 hours worth of work
The nice thing about lp, like wood siding for centuries before, is that the reveal can be flexible. We use Gecko gauges exclusively, with no chalk lines. Although there is some slop as the gecko gauges are not 100% precise, there is a lot of forgiveness in the reveals on this style of lap siding. We used chalk lines only for years. but it is much less efficient. and the finished product with gecko gauges is every bit as good. Perfectionism in areas of the project that don’t improve the end product is not only not desirable but adds cost and reduces efficiency. I like the Toyota model, cut out all the methods and practices that do not add value to the customer: I love you Kyle, but LEAN it up man. A certain amount of perfectionism is just straight up ego.
Really informative, great to see the kind of prep to make the install easier. Would really like to see how you would start horizontal siding on a second story (open gable) above the first story peak, where there is less than a foot of distance between the roof surface and the end wall, where the starter strip would be. So it would be two peaks (lower and upper), if looking straight on at the front facing. I would think measuring downward from the horizontal line at the top of the first story peak would be the best way to go about it. One thing that makes the story pole easier, especially when using a level, is to use a piece of lime green painters tape to highlight each marking, makes it easier to see, much more so if there are lots of corners. Enjoy the stuff that your showing!!
Hi, hopefully you’re reading old comments on your articles! I do not understand why there is no flashing at the bottom of a window to overlap on top of the sidings. I imagine a drop of the water going between the window trim and the window frame, where is it going to get out? it runs along the window flange and behind the siding, isn’t it? how does it coming back on top before the bottom of the wall flashing? Since i’m perusal articles and educating myself about sidings because i’ll redo the siding of my house myself, i haven’t figure out this one yet.
So no rain screen or air space needed behind this LP siding? Also could you not use a product like Azek for the corners and frame around windows and doors and groove it out to have a J website built into the AZEK trim and corner a d also I think you can buy it already made that way with a return to hide the and butt the siding inside with an expansion space?
Technically you only need to shoot the laser on one side. After you pop lines on one side you can pop lines on the next adjacent side by lining up the chalk line and having a second man hold the line level on the other side. Using a line level on the chalk line to check its level. It would require a third person, but it would speed the process up a little. Then you can set up the laser on opposite side the house just to verify. Maybe I’m wrong, but it seems like that would be a little bit quicker.
the most important part imo(outside of what ya’ll are talking about installation wise) if someone is building their house and wants their lap siding to look sharp is to use a framer that crowns their studs and culls the bad studs. no need to be cheap. culled studs will get used in bracing, purlins, deadwood, etc.
How would you run your siding up next to the concrete porch if the porch were higher? I’ve got a similar project but my first two rows of siding will butt into the side of my concrete porch. Debating if I should put a piece of vertical trim next to the porch or just flashing and run the siding up to the side.
I started researching siding options recently and for some reason all the builders are shit talking about LP smart side. And they are so passionate about shit talking about it to the point of saying that vinyl is better, that it makes me super suspicious of why are they so angry at it. You are the only builder I’ve heard saying good stuff about the product. I believe you ! 😁
I would like to see a article on how to properly install board and batten. So vertical instead of horizontal siding. I have a home in California that was built in 1976 and has some particularly ugly and rough stucco on the outside. do I need to bust all the stucco off then sheet the exposed framing with plywood and then install the board and batten? I’m trying to update the house to what they referred to as a modern farmhouse look.
It’s called a benchmark or a god line! I wonder if you’ve ever used a builders level and a tape measure. Some guys can’t afford thousand dollar rotary lasers. Oh and in theory that’s gonna work if your windows were roughed in and installed perfectly. If you get the first two rows on perfectly level around the entire house the rest you can fly. Talk about a waste of time. Levels are good for drawing a straight line to ensure you hit every stud. You also don’t know what plumb means. Yes it’s a vertical line but it’s not left and right it’s in and out 😂. I don’t think you have to fur out that wall since your just installing cheap shit. But I can teach you how a string line and shims works my friend! Nice article and wonderful efforts! Good for you
If you were building your house is this the siding product you would use? And how would you feel if a customer asked questions about the fasteners you would use, if the corners would match up like you did, flashing, spacing…..? Looking to build a home in the near future and I watch your website because I like your attention to detail. I hope to get a contractor as attentive to detail, a perfectionist. Keep up the good work and great content on your website!