BEHR Barn and Fence Paint is a specialty exterior coating that is ideal for color retention and durability. It is typically good for application in temperatures ranging from 35°F to 90°F (2°C to 32°C), but the optimal temperature range for painting is around 40°F to 80°F. Behr paint lasts up to 10 years if properly applied, with a 5-10 year exterior lifespan.
Most paints last one to two years in an open can, with latex paints lasting an average of 10 years in an unopened can and oil-based paint lasting up to 15 years. Consumer Reports provides information on when leftover paint is past its prime, safe disposal methods, and which interior paints are top performers in tests.
The 100 acrylic formula seals out elements and harmful UV rays for up to 10 years on decks and up to 25 years on fences and siding. The durable, livestock-safe finish resists mildew and UV damage, ensuring the paint retains its color over time. This self-priming paint has superior coverage and is perfect for outdoor rough wood projects.
If the latex or oil-based finish has started to crack, peel, or flake, BEHR PREMIUM® Wood Stain and Finish Stripper No. 64 can be used to remove it. Behr Exterior, Barn and Fence Paint is an advanced exterior paint that combines the best features of oil and latex for superior color retention.
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Does fence paint last?
To maintain a fence’s top condition, it is recommended to stain or paint it every 2-3 years, especially for drip treated fences that require yearly treatment and pressure treated fences that can be left for years. Wet fence panels should be completely dried before painting, with a minimum of 24 hours of dry time required depending on the climate. Over time, paint colors may fade, so it is crucial to maintain the fence’s appearance and longevity.
What exterior paint lasts 10 years?
Exterior acrylic paint typically lasts 5-10 years, with latex and oil-based paints slightly less. However, these estimates are not universally applicable due to factors like climate, material, paint brand, and job quality. To estimate the project’s lifespan, consider these factors when preparing to paint your home:
- Climate: Climate can affect the paint’s longevity, while the material used, paint brand, and job quality can affect the time needed for repainting.
What exterior paint lasts 25 years?
Rhino Shield is a leading provider of premium exterior coatings and paint products since 2000. Its innovative formula protects properties from elements and provides a beautiful finish, backed by a 25-year guarantee. Compared to traditional latex paint, Rhino Shield outperforms paint in most comparison factors. It is the preferred choice for residential and commercial customers for exterior wall and roof coatings. Choose Rhino Shield for your next exterior painting project and experience the difference it makes.
How often do you need to repaint a fence?
The frequency of painting or staining a fence is contingent upon the climate. In regions with high precipitation, such as those with a rainy climate, the fence will require more frequent refinishing. Conversely, in arid regions, the fence will require less frequent refinishing. The recommended frequency for painting or staining a fence is every two to three years. However, the necessity for regular maintenance can be determined by checking for beading.
Does Behr paint go bad?
Brands have specific guidelines for the shelf life of paint cans, with water-based paints lasting two years and oil-based paints lasting three years. The quality of paint, color, and gloss finish don’t affect shelf life, but oil-based paint may last longer in garages or sheds due to its resistance to degradation in fluctuating temperatures. Water-based paints, including acrylic and latex paints, are more susceptible to degradation in liquid forms in environments with fluctuating temperatures. Expired paint can present issues such as ruined consistency and a sour smell, which can be difficult to work around.
How long does exterior paint last on a fence?
The final option for a fence is to use a solid stain or paint like Superpaint from Sherwin Williams. Sherwin Williams Duration should not be used on a fence as it creates a thick coating that prevents natural moisture from escaping the wood. Painting creates the thickest barrier against weathering and can last 5-9 years. However, this option opens up the possibility of chipping paint/stain. If the wood is new, an oil-based primer should be applied before applying the coat.
Paint should not be used on a fence unless it has already been painted, as it will naturally draw moisture from the ground and prevent the fence from “breathing” and causing peeling. Contact a local branch manager for assistance and visit the Sherwin Williams website for more information on their products.
How long does Behr exterior paint last?
BEHR DYNASTY® Exterior Paint is a revolutionary exterior paint that combines advanced formula with long-lasting performance. It offers 10-year color fade protection, early rain resistance, and low-temperature application, making it the most fade-resistant paint Behr has ever delivered. This paint ensures that color and exterior surfaces look newer longer, even in harsh weather conditions. Whether painting in the sun or cold temperatures, BEHR DYNASTY Exterior Paint ensures that clients won’t worry about their paint job fading, ensuring a vibrant and fresh appearance. This revolutionary product is perfect for professional painters who want to impress their clients and maintain their business’s reputation.
How long can you store fence paint?
Water-based paint can last up to 10 years and oil-based paint up to 15. Proper storage is crucial as extreme temperatures can cause paint to dry up or separate, making it unusable. Store paint indoors in a utility room or under stairs cupboard, away from radiators and direct sunlight. Proper cleaning and storage of paint brushes can help them last for years and prevent the need for new brushes for every job.
Is Behr exterior paint waterproof?
BEHR DYNASTY® Exterior Paint is an advanced formula that provides protection from rain as early as 60 minutes after application. It can be applied in cold and hot climates, from as low as 35°F to up to 90°F. The fast-drying paint ensures your exterior is functional faster, eliminating the need for waiting and worrying about when it’s safe to start enjoying your home again.
The paint is suitable for wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber cement siding, metals, brick, masonry, stucco, steel, and fences. To use the paint, countersink nailheads, fill and sand smooth, remove rust, loose or peeling paint, repair imperfections, wash off dirt, grease, and chalk with detergent and/or power wash, remove mildew stains with a mildew stain removing product, clean and sand new or weathered wood, scruff sand or degloss smooth or glossy surfaces, scrub sand or etch metals, rinse and allow to dry, caulk windows, doors, and other openings, and allow new stucco, plaster, and masonry to cure for 30 days before painting.
BeHR DYNASTY paint can be used as a primer for repaired or uncoated surfaces, including woods that contain tannins and heavily stained areas. For drastic color changes or when applying deep colors, apply a tinted primer coat of BEHR BEHR DYNASTY if needed.
Apply the product on dry substrates when air and surface temperatures are between 35°-90°F (2°-32°C) and will remain between 35°-90°F (2°-32°C) for at least 4 hours after applying. Allow the paint film to dry for at least 60 minutes prior to rain showers when temperatures are between 60°-70° F (15°-21° C) and 60-70 relative humidity.
Behr Process LLC offers a 10-year warranty for its BEHR DyNASTY exterior paint product, which is designed to protect wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber cement siding, metals, brick, masonry, stucco, steel, and fences. The product is intended for use on properly prepared and cleaned surfaces, and is not suitable for use on floors.
The warranty does not apply to or cover the BEHR DyNASTY 10-YEAR COLOR FADE PROTECTION and RELATED DESCRIPTION on this label. The warranty excludes labor and costs of labor for the application or removal of any product, as well as any incidental, consequential, or punitive damages. Some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental, consequential, or punitive damages, so the above limitation or exclusion may not apply to you.
The product is used on properly prepared and cleaned coated and uncoated exterior surfaces, including wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber cement siding, metals, brick, masonry, stucco, steel, and fences. It is important to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and follow the manufacturer’s guidelines when applying the product.
Before applying the product, countersink nailheads, fill and sand smooth, remove rust, loose or peeling paint, repair imperfections, wash off dirt, grease, and chalk with detergent and/or power wash, remove mildew stains with a mildew stain removing product, clean and sand new or weathered wood, scuff sand or degloss smooth or glossy surfaces, scrub sand or etch metals, rinse and allow to dry, caulk windows, doors, and other openings, and allow new stucco, plaster, and masonry to cure for 30 days before painting.
Before applying the product, apply it on dry substrates when air and surface temperatures are between 35°-90°F (2°-32°C) and will remain between 35°-90°F (2°-32°C) for at least 4 hours after applying. Allow the paint film to dry for at least 60 minutes prior to rain showers when temperatures are between 60°-70° F (15°-21° C) and 60-70 relative humidity. Stir paint occasionally and intermix containers of the same product to ensure color and sheen uniformity.
For semi-smooth surfaces, use a high-quality 3/8-1/2″ nap roller cover, nylon/polyester brush, or an airless sprayer (. 015 -. 021″ spray tip, 60 mesh filter). For rough surfaces, use a high-quality 3/4-1″ nap roller cover. Do not thin if using a roller or brush; however, if using a sprayer and thinning is required, thin with water at a rate of no more than 1/2 pint per gallon.
On heavy stains and woods that contain tannins, allow 12-16 hours of dry time between coats. After 4 weeks, cured paint film may be cleaned with a mild, non-abrasive liquid detergent. When applying to vinyl, color choice must be the same color or lighter than the existing color.
For disposal of empty containers, unused paint, and soiled rags, contact your household refuse collection service.
In summary, Behr DyNASTY offers a 10-year warranty for its BEHR DyNASTY exterior paint product, which is designed to protect wood, vinyl, aluminum, fiber cement siding, metals, brick, masonry, stucco, steel, and fences. The warranty is not transferable and requires proper application and maintenance.
How long does Behr fence stain last?
The Behr Premium Solid Colour Waterproofing All-In-One Wood Stain and Sealer is a 100% acrylic formula that protects wood surfaces from the damaging effects of ultraviolet radiation and environmental factors for extended periods. In laboratory tests, the product demonstrated efficacy for up to 10 years on decks and 25 years on fences and siding.
Can exterior paint last 20 years?
The longevity of an exterior paint job is contingent upon a number of factors, including the grade of the paint, the color of the paint, and the type of building material. The typical lifespan of a painted surface is between ten and twenty-five years. It should be noted, however, that paint is a diverse product, and the surface of the building also affects the paint’s adhesion. The longevity of a painted surface is dependent on three primary factors: the grade of the paint, the color of the paint, and the material from which the surface is constructed.
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I’ve been in construction since I was a teenager. Mostly worked on remodeling historic homes. I’ve done it all & I still learn something every damn time I watch one of these articles. Jeff-you are the man, brother! More than anything though, you remind me not to over-complicate this stuff & the simpler the work is, the more I enjoy it. So I’m sending every bit of my respect & gratitude from Cape Cod. You are one hell of a tradesman.
Not all ‘bleach’ products are the same, I suggest you use words such as ‘chemical cleaners’ or something else unless you mean sodium hypochlorite (household bleach), they are chemically different. Household/chlorine bleach destroys the tannins and character of the wood, but is fine for treated pine. Also, I suggest: 1) pre-wet the wood 2) apply the chemicals using a pressure sprayer at the right concentration 3) let it sit for at least 5-10 mins depending on the product (keep damp, mist if necessary) 4) agitate with a brush 5) then rinse heavily to ensure no salts are left to crystallise on the surface
I’m just now building an ’88 ft pressure treated Douglas fir 6 ft fence.. it’s my first time and it’s looking beautiful.. also running three 2×4 braces for each panel and a finish headboard along the top and after perusal this article it looks like staining is extremely laborious… Is it even necessary that I stain?
40+ year painter here. Sorry to say, but this is filled with a lot of incorrect statements by a non-professional painter who over-estimates his knowledge and skill-level. Always follow the advice of a pro in whatever trade you are researching, not a jack-of-all-trades guy who dabbles in multiple trades, yet excels at none of them. Same silly practices in his fencing articles.
Just curious, but if you apply the penetrating sealer stain on one side of the fence, what happens if you don’t do it on the other side as well? Will that cause problems down the line? If one side is protected and the other isn’t, when that unprotected side starts to decay will not reach your side eventually?
Hello Jeff! I realize my comment will probably be to far down the list to read but I just want to say a huge thank you for all that you do to help us DIYers. I love how real you are and how realistic everything is. You approach everything with an open mind and try to explain everything as best as possible and doing it all without crazy expensive tools! I tried the pressure washer technique you mentioned but I had no reference so I ended up with some of the wood being fuzzy. Do I just quickly give that a sand before staining? Also I Live in Nova Scotia and since I am not close to Ottawa, do you have a second recommendation for stain that I should buy? I’m close to a Home Depot if that helps at all. As well with the floor of the deck do I follow the same technique or will you be doing another tutorial on the deck your building right now? I understand if you don’t see this or get a chance to get back to me. Thank you again for everything! I love your website and you’re amazing!!
I think you could have used a pressure garden weed sprayer or a cheap electrical paint sprayer to spray the bleach onto the wood….a lot easier than the decking brush on a pole and less waste….sometimes other tools or equipment can be used for things that they were not originally intended. Work smarter and easier.
Bleach breaks down the lignin in wood causing damage to cells of wood. Yes, it’s instant results, consider other alternatives such as wood brighteners or other cleaners designed to safely brighten and clean wood which also preserve the life of the wood. Also, you can pressure wash from a safe distance without etching the fence, and the brush isn’t always as necessary. If you are a DIY weekend warrior however, bleach is a cheaper option and probably a better result than greyed out cedar. Apply chems top down on vertical surfaces, rinse from bottom up with water
I do something similar to clean my house and buildings, but I find it easier to put the bleach water in a pump sprayer, I think it is easier then trying to use the brush to apply. Just go back with a brush if necessary, then rinse/finish with garden hose or power washer, bleach is amazing for cleaning.
I DO NOT recommend this product. 3 days after staining and looking great, there was an overnight shower, the water penetrated the stain leaving dark spots everywhere, now it looks horrible. Waiting on Mike from Randall’s to do the honrable thing and get a refund. UPDATE: Not a refund but exchange for Sansin Dec
I tried this using pool chlorine shock 50/50 water ratio with pump sprayer. Hosed it down after 15min. The deck is all fuzzy on the surface and now needs to be sanded. The deck looks bleach white, don’t really like the look. So unless you are going to immediately sand it and stain it. I wouldn’t recommend it.
Kind of an awkward spot to have the shared fence stained up to the property line. Did you talk to the neighbours about doing theirs at the same time? I suppose my mindset would be to say “Hey I’m doing mine, do you want me to do yours while we have the stuff here?”, unless you have a reason not to do that. If they’re good people they’ll offer to pay for the costs, or repay you some other way. Couldn’t help but think of the human logistics of the situation… I gotta do my fence this year. Thanks for the reminder.
They use cedar instead of PT because all the PT fences split and warp horribly because the PT is so wet today and it dries too fast in the sun. I installed a cedar fence and finished it with Ready Seal. My fence looks new, but the PT fences in the neighborhood that were installed last summer are all warped and crappy already.
Cedar is one of those woods that are inherently fairly rot resistive. I have never seen a rotted cedar fence except if it is allowed to touch the ground. In this case, water and organic material creep into the wood and cause the bottom to rot. Usually, a fence fails when the posts eventually rot and the whole thing goes over in a wind storm. There are many bleach based cleaners on the market which can be bought in a spray bottle which attaches to a garden hose. All that brushing to apply the bleach is unnecessary. A fence that is cleaned periodically will last many years, even WITHOUT a stain. Stains are largely for aesthetics – the color just looks good. If you like the look of natural cedar, just plan on keeping it clean. There is also a financial reason to not stain a fence, it will soak up a LOT of expensive stain, and then will have to be done again every several years. Whereas bleach is very effective in getting rid of the blackish mold and mildew, an oxalic acid containing cleaner will actually do a superior job of returning the original color of the cedar. Bleach tends to leave a silverish patina on the wood, rather than the warm wood tone.
u dont know why they let it rot? because they want you to pay for it! over and over again: because they want to keep you broke…who is “they”? both builders, incompetent contractors, the ones that are independent workers and considers the ones who struggle to keep a job slaves…they do a lazy job and run away..after they took your money of course… next time you know, you get a violation from the city and if you cannot afford to fix it in time(rebuild your whole fence) you are back into homelessness…because they would sell yr house for 3.50 to their “friends”.nothing but hate…this is how leaches system works…parasites looking for a pray
No, it is not true that the only people who like greyed cedar are “either crazy or lazy.” Cedar is prized by gardeners for this very reason. But climbing roses are apparently not this guy’s thing. Which is fine. But I’ll put it this way: When it comes to building fences I want this guy on my team all the way. But when it comes to the aesthetics of lawn and garden I don’t him, I want Martha Stewart. The toolbelt guys — including the ones who come to my house to do projects — never seem to understand the difference. It’s the natural order of things, I suppose.
How do you know what kind of wood you have? We have a rental and I have to take off old peeling paint- which I’ll use diamabrush but then do I need to wash the wood after sanding all paint off? Or can I just apply the stain. Also I really want to buy c2 wood stain but we are leaving tomorrow so I won’t get it in time…is there any other stain you’ve done that is as good as c2 stuff?
really?! The city puts up the fences? Did I hear that right? We in the states need to do our own. Unless the city puts up noise barriers between a subdivision and the main roads. We are in need of a new fence. I fall under the lazy category. I wasn’t a cedar fence like that, but one of those where the wood boards alternate with the boards on the other side of the horizontal pieces. It was painted. Now it is rotted out and part of the fence has fallen down. Any tips on what I should replace it with? Something economical that looks good (of course). We want to see through it and over it. I know that is fairly basic info, but interested in anyones thoughts. We are in the northern IL area. Great tips, thanks!
oh no..I would be spraying that on ( not a pressure washer) ..not using a brush. be there all day….I replace my fence every 10 yrs..its pressure treated pine and then i stain it. Still only lasts 10 yrs. mostly because of rot… and BTW.. i cant stand GRAY old looking wood. Its ugly. People if you put up a new fence..stain it.
I love your articles Jeff, but this method is incorrect. First step is to wet the wood. Second, don’t use bleach. Bleach is meant for a non porous surface, wood is porous. Bleach cleans the first thing it comes in contact with. It’s good for mold and mildew, but you would be better off to use a sodium metasilicate product or a diluted solution of sodium hydroxide on wood.
Everybody is moving to alkyds for outdoor lumber applications but it’s still a little pricey. it’s an oil emulsion in water which is meant to mimic solvent based application features, including penetration. Still limited by the surface tension of water it achieves better penetration than conventional latex coatings. However, it’s a misconception that they do not form films. The films being 1-2nm, even more if you choose to double coat the board.
Great stuff! So I’ve been commissioned to make some outdoor signs for cabins with cedar slabs. I was looking on the C2 site and they have a clear version of C2 Guard. I’m assuming that’s the one I would use? Thanks for creating this great website. Your articles are always appreciated and so easy to watch.
I thought if you did only one side, it wasn’t effective. Particularly if you seal. I was going to do both sides to try and save my fence from the landfill. What do you think about post caps.? Too bad the nice ones are cost prohibitive for your whole yard and the plastic ones only come in black and sometimes dark brown. BTW. Love your articles.
Down here in Texas we do a lot of burning our wood for a rustic look, then hit it with Thompson water seal. I did a style that’s very old technique that the Japanese used to water proof all natural and it’s called “sugi ban” It’s almost black lacquer after it’s burnt and repels water. I did a custom wood floor once using this i think you should check it out..
I always called new home owners apartment dwellers they knew nothing about home maintenance or the cost so a few months after moving in the front yard would be dead and a few years later all the wood work would be looking like hell. Just wait her nabor will be complaining that you damage the fence on their side 😆 🤣 with that wash and stain.
You could save your back using a pump sprayer. Or, because I’m into detailing, I use my snow foam cannon! I get a nice, thick coating that clings to the surface. I put one coat on and leave it until its almost drying out, then put on a second coat and work it with the pressure washer gently. Spotless in less than half the time.
Thanks Jeff. We applied this to our backyard and the result is impressive. We ended up renting a power washer since the multiple round of scrubbing is hard work 😊 We went with C2 Guard as you recommended. It is expensive compared to big store competition. Hope the price is worth the performance. We underestimate our paint requirement by 3x
You have a strange perverted idea idea of what a properly built cedar fence should look like in the long term. I had an experience with a neighbor using a pressure washer to DESTROY the preferred patina on an adjoining fence. OMG what a putz. My mouth dropped in wonder. Please don’t do this. BTW the rot bleeds through to the other side.