In DIY building applications, shims are typically 2 inches wide and about 8 inches long. In plumbing, most plastic shims are 1 inch wide and 2 1/2 inches long. Choosing the right size shims is crucial for a successful bathroom remodel. Plastic shims are ideal for toilets, bathrooms, subfloors, or exterior elements. A well-placed shim can pull a canted door frame to plumb and level as it should be.
Shims are tapered wedges used for making slight adjustments to home elements, such as door frames and windows, to make them plumb. Commercial shims purchased in packages are usually between 7 1/2 inches and 9 inches long and 1 1/2 inches wide. Contractor-grade shims are available in the lumber section of Low*s, with smaller plastic shims made for various purposes.
A shim is a tapered wedge used for making slight adjustments to home elements, such as door frames and windows, to make them plumb. The package includes thirteen heavy-duty wood shims, each 15 inches long, 1.25 inches wide, and tapered to 0.25 inches at the thickest point.
A wall flattening shim kit contains a 9 cell box of 900+ wall shims, including 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, 1/2, and a handy depth gauge. Each wall flattening shim kit contains a 9 cell box of 900+ wall shims and a depth gauge.
In conclusion, selecting the right size shims is crucial for a successful bathroom remodel. With the right tools and knowledge, you can achieve a smooth and stable installation of your new vanity.
📹 How to fix a bad wall. leveling a wall. making a wall plumb. Bathroom Renovation. DIY
When doing a diy bathroom or more specifically a diy shower remodel you will want to make sure that your wall are perfectly …
📹 The Correct Height of a Toilet Flange
Spacers we have four different size spacers 8/4 half and 3/4 oop any one of these will match the finish floor thickness you select …
I’ve read through some of these comments so I would like to weigh in. The set right system is nice but I don’t like the reduction of the 3″ to less than a 2 1/2″ either. It’s a problem just like the offset flanges are a problem, especially on commercial toilets and air-tank flush units. So what to do? You can use their spacers and a 3″ flange plate. Or you can be a skilled plumber and use an inside pipe cutter and a coupling to bring up the flange on where it needs to be. Some type of waterproofing on the subfloor is a good idea like an adhesive caulk like Phenoseal on second floor bathrooms. Using the rubber type flange seals is a better idea than the wax rings. They make removing the toilet again easier. Fluidmaster is a good one. Don’t use wax rings with the plastic horn. The horn eventually gets cocked inside the flange and obstructs the waste being flushed. Caulking a toilet down is ok for appearance and a good finished look, just don’t caulk around the back. Leave that open if there ever is a problem with a leak. Always level the toilet. Always check to make sure toilet doesn’t wobble. Always proof your work.
I used this product on one tile job. Got called back because toilet kept clogging. The problem with this is that it reduced the pipe opening in a 3″ pipe to under 2.5″. Clog city. I wouldn’t recommend stacking up a bunch of wax rings either. The best and easiest solution are the stackable pvc spacers at most big box stores. Just stack them until you are just above the floor level, add a Bead of silicone between spacers and flange and you’re good to go. No reduction in pipe size, no splash back, no leaks.
You exactly right the flange should be on top of the finish floor. I’m in the plumbing business for over 30 years, and we always install our flanges on top of the finish floor, our proven method is to stub up through the floor with 4″ pvc, if the branch piping is 3″ we use a 3 x 4 closet 90 to stub up 4″ then we tell the GC to tile up to the 4″ pipe. When we trim out the toilet we cut the 4″ pvc flush with the finish floor and use a 3 x 4 pvc closet flange that glues into the 4″ pipe and screw it down to the finish floor. I know most plumbers want to slap the closet collar down on the rough and be done with it but my method may take a bit longer on the trim but it’s worth the peace of mind we’re doing it right.
I hate this kit. the spacers aren’t 7 inches in diameter like a standard flange would be there too big around, and the yellow flange with that tail piece cuts off volume flow (chokes it down). Every time our sales dept( LOWES) supplies this, i opt to just stack the standard stackable flange adapters that are white and are 7 inches standard in dia, i just smear wax rings in between the flanges and compress. Everybodys got to reinvent the wheel. My wheels been rolling for 30 years doing tile floors and remodeling. Flush this kit. go back to the white pvc flange stackers that have worked forever.
As a state licensed plumber with over 23yrs in the trade,i can tell you the easiest,CORRECT way to go about commode rough in/flange installation. When doing the rough-in on new construction use a 4 x 3 closet 90 and come up through the floor with 4 inch schedule 40 PVC. Your 4in commode Riser extending vertically from the 4 by 3 closet 90 should extend roughly of foot above where the Finish floor will be. Do not set the flange until the finished floor is complete at that point cut the 4-inch Riser flush with the finished floor using a Sawzall. Need a 4 x 3 closet flange and glue it inside of the 4-inch pipe. The key is to come up through the floor with 4 inch PVC and get the closet flange that glues tight inside of the 4-inch pipe in other words you’re not gluing the flange over the pipe you’re finding the 4 x 3 flange that fits inside of 4 inch. To repair a Flames that’s already been installed too low they make individual PVC flange extension rings that using a long set of closet bolts you seal down to the original flange that’s too low bring it above grade. The product advertised in this YouTube article chokes down the flange by using a type of spigot flange. Absolutely do not use this product as it will choke down your commode flange at least one pipe size causing things to get hung up
Important side note. Do not caulk around your toilet. If it leaks you want to know. Most times it will show under toilet or discolouration around linoleum, not so much on tile, but if flange was put on the flooring it would. Reason why you want to see it leak is to know when to change it. If not knowing it usually rots floor before showing up on ceiling below. Not always but mostly. Just 45 yrs of plumbing that I have experienced.
SALES PITCH WARNING!!! First off, anyone who uses the metal or plastic swivel flange is using inferior products. Second, never use the adjustable slots. Use the notches that are on the white plastic flange. They are stronger. Anyone who has spent any time doing new construction and service work Ought to know this. And third, anyone who does not know how to seal a toilet when the flange is screwed to the subfloor is not a plumber. The flange is made to be put in on the rough and screwed to the subfloor. It’s been that way since Plumbing began. And if your “Plumber” doesn’t know how to set a toilet without it leaking, he is not a plumber. This is just a sales pitch for someone to sell a product that they came up with. Just one more thing to buy. I’m not saying it’s a bad or a good idea. But the floor depth and flange height are greatly exaggerated in this article. And to the commenters who say not to screw it to the subfloor and that it is not code, you don’t have a clue what you’re talking about.
My 60 years of plumbing experience disagrees! You want the closet ring flush with the finish floor, so as to give expansion cushion to the wax! (Too thin, no flex)! You should always use a 110 (felt or neoprene lined wax ring, (for wall mount W.C.’s) When setting the bowl Ya wana feel the wax squish a bit!
I’m a very green maintenance tech for an apartment complex. I’m happy to do learning and researching on my own and I’m finding that my supervisor doesn’t know as much as he thinks. When teaching me about placement of the flange he said to make the top of it flush with the floor. I think im starting to see why so many of the buildings seem to have issues with leaking flanges if he’s been putting them too low and not correcting that when we find them low. And the supervisor before him would just stack wax rings 3-4 high on top of a cracked flange instead of actually installing a new flange. So I think I have my work cut out for me, but atleast I know how to go about correcting and fixing the issues properly now
It would be a good ideas to put some sort of durable spacer in with closet flanges so when we install them we have a good option to install the flange before trim out. I bet that would sell. I’m a plumber and I’d buy it. I can already imagine a kettle flyer and demo on a plumbing supply counter. “Never have a sunken flange again!”
Overlooked one potential problem. Your Johnny bolts need to be set through the first flange or when you snug up the nuts a gap well form between the two flanges and possibly allow sewer gas to escape. Also that system reduces the inside diameter of the flange. Not good for really big poo poo. Instead,clean the heck out of the existing flange apply a thick bead of glue/sealent to a traditional spacer ring screw down at 4 points. PS. Use extra long Johnny bolts and trim to proper hight after setting toilet. Silicone base of toilet last.
Finally! Someone tells people how a flange is supposed to be. 3/8″ proud of the finished floor. There’s a horn on a toilet. That horn must be inside the flange! I have been a plumber for 41 years and today is the last day. In that time I have never used a bowl wax with a plastic sleeve. I have never used 2 bowl waxes. If the inspector wants to see the flange on top out, fine. Cut pieces of soft copper the thickness of the finished floor and put your brass or stainless screws through those. It’s not rocket science. Jesus wept. It’s a certainty that the floor will be ruined if the flange is not at the proper height.
I’m having three new toilets installed (replacing old ones) and have hired a plumber to do it. I am an engineer and no doubt could do the “work” but because I know the value of industry/trade knowledge vs “DIY” knowledge, I feel better paying now and not 10x more later to fix my mistake. Even if I didn’t make a mistake, I’d be perusal it for years just knowing I did.
All wrong. Toilets DO NOT have more than a half inch of room under them, for the 3/8 flange. That only leaves 1/8″ room for wax. Which is not enough wax Flanging at the floor level (like he said, which is done 90 percent of the time) is easily cancelled out by a 3 dollar thick wax ring with a funnel. Also, his black spacer only has a 2″ hole…. clog city And big time backlash
Unless you have the toilet in your hands and you can physically see the bottom of the toilet. DO NOT set flange on top of finished surface. There are so many toilet makers now and zero regulations on how far the toilet waste discharge opening is set above the surface of the bottom of the toilet. Meaning, if you flip over new or old toilets. and put a straight edge from mounting bolt to bolt. The bottom of of the toilet that actually touches the floor and the bottom of the toilet that discharges waste can vary from 1/4″ to 5/8″ higher than the floor surface. So when you set your 3/8 thick pvc toilet flange on top of the tile surface and you bought a cheap toilet that the waste discharge is only 1/4″ above the finished surface, your screwed to say the least. Now you get to be one of those people that have a toilet with 1/2″ of caulk under it, sitting on a pile of shims. Thats also why toilets flanges are screwed to the subfloor.
I am renovating two bathrooms on a 2nd floor townhouse where I had installed this product approx. six years ago and when I removed the toilets today, I found the two-flange extender. I highly recommend this product as it worked perfectly for me. I never had any clogging or any flushing issues, if anything these two toilets have been the most reliable out off all my rental units.
Every time I roughed in a toilet for a new house or job I would ask the tile guy or carpenter what is going to be the finished height of the floor is it going to be a 1/2″ or 3/4″ higher etc. And most qualified plumbers do that !! Anyone who screws a toilet flange down to the sub floor does not know what they’re doing . With that said every now and then you come across some rubegolberg or do it yourselfers, that tried to save some money ….. I think this is a great fix for that …. Nice !, but your premise is wrong that plumbers screw the flange down to the subfloors it’s not code .
Call me a glutton for punishment, but every remodel I’ve done I cut the flange out and put a new one at the correct height. I also screw them down. So many people don’t for whatever reason. Even on concrete slabs, I do it. Grout the toilet if on tile or concrete, caulk if on sheet vinyl or plywood. I’m not a plumber but I’ve been taught by two and I’ve changed out a bunch of toilets over the years. I don’t like gimmicky wax rings either. Just your plain jane wax ring. I’ve tried others and regretted it. My two cents. If you’re a pro, I’m open to criticism for my own learning. Thanks.
Clogged toilet waiting to happen. This reduces the diameter of the hole. I’ve set hundreds of toilets on flanges below the finished floor without issue. Put in a wax ring w/horn, extra thick if needed, in the flange to have the wax around 3/4″ above the finished floor so the bottom flange (hole) of the toilet fits in it and the 1/2″ gap outside of that hole under the toilet pushes down on the wax to make the seal. They make wax rings w/o the horn so you can stack one on top of the first if needed, and smear the wax together to make it one taller wax ring to meet the toilet when setting it. Use 2 washers and nuts to secure the toilet bolts (3 & 9 o’clock) to the flange before setting. Add your wax ring(s) onto the flange. Slowly guide toilet over the two bolts and lower evenly with floor. You’ll feel the toilet meet the wax ring and slowly smash the wax before the toilet’s perimeter sets on the floor, then you know you have a seal. Shim toilet if floor or casting is uneven so no wobble. Snug toilet to bolts, fill and test. Those plastic wax rings they sell are junk, have followed homeowners installing them and had leaking problems. Why you would reduce the closet bend opening by a pipe size rather than add a wax ring is beyond me?
I replaced my toilets a couple years ago and in the one bathroom they have the abs/pvc black flange just like this about 1/4 inch below floor. I did a bunch of research and professional plumbers were saying to double two wax rings. This year The toilet started clogging easy. I removed the toilet and found the kids had flushed a plastic flosser and it was in the outlet of the toilet. It had baby wipes also stuck on it and that is why I was having to plunge it recently. Well I think somehow when I used my heavy duty t-handle bazooka plunger I caused the wax seal to fail. Floor was wet and particle board on top of subfloor was soaked and expanded. So now it needs a new floor, new wood, new flange extender kit. If I had just installed this kit in the first place this damage and new floor would not be necessary most likely.
Great article. Can you state the actual purpose of the wax ring? Since the underside of the flange pipe isn’t pressurized, (open to atmosphere), if the wax seal leaks, is it leaking from between the toilet funnel and wax ring, or the bottom of the wax ring and top of the flange. I would think it’s between the toilet funnel itself, and the wax seal against that porcelain funnel, since this is the only pressure, although very small.
I see a lot of experts on today’s building practices in these comments. And that’s great that everyone TODAY wants to do the job right. But that doesn’t help me for my house built in the early 1950’s where building codes or practices were very different. I need a product like this cuz guess what? They built the flange so low it’s barely above the subfloor and all that beautiful support system I see around waste pipe, doesn’t exist. So at some point I’m guessing the plumbers of today had to learn from the mistakes of their predecessors and now I’m stuck fixing it. I wonder what mistakes plumbers in 2100 will be blogging about plumbers of today? Lol
Ok, Where to start, Don’t let them scare you into spending more money then you need to on a product that won’t last as long! Abs fittings are cheap and they litterally make different flanges for all kinds of different situations. I’m a Plumber, we don’t install a w/c flange without knowing the finished height of a floor, if we don’t know or can’t get that info we will extend the pipe well above finished floor (cap it) and then buy a flange that fits into 3″ pipe, therefore allowing us to cut the pipe down and install the flange after the floor has been installed. dont be worried that the pipe inside diameter will then be around 2.75″s because there probably isnt a w/c or bidet on the market today that has an inside diameter larger then 2.5″s.. however this product would be handy to raise a flange without the need of a plumber if you were doing a reno and the new floor will be higher then the old, I am just a little worried about that gasket though, it will dry out and crack eventually which will lead to damaged sub floor/leaks..
One thing I don’t get it when he says to screw it on to the floor, I’ve seen others installing toilets articles and I don’t see them screwing on the floor . They only only use the the fitting sleeves add glue on it ad the wax ring and then place down the toilet on it then they they secure the same toilet with the screws coming up from the underneath the flange….🇨🇦🇨🇦
No real plumber would ever use these or ever install a flange with the height not being set for finish floor height of course there are very few real plumbers around anymore. The building inspector and the general contractor should also know better that’s what you are paying them for, but they don’t seem to care. Home improvement and remodel hacks are the worse they love to stack wax seals. The toilet pipe should be boxed in during framing and or plumbing rough in, but never are, 400 pounds sitting on half or even three quarter inch OSB or plywood will have defection. Let’s not even begin to talk about in inadequate shower or tub framing. Do the job correctly, box the pipe, extend the pipe to correct height then add the flange and rest well at night. If you do it this way invest in a good telescoping water closet auger and save some money for the guaranteed upcoming floor repair.
Im having this low closet flange issue with a macerating up-flow toilet. The thing has a basin the poo goes into which has the flange built in it.. so for one i cant drill any screws into the flange because the tank must remaim sealed. However after the subfloor, leveler, backer board, tile i have almost 2 inches i need the flange to be at. Under the basin is a concrete floor.. the only thing i can think to do is to stack spacers in between with silly cones in between each pvc spacer then wax ring on top.. i still have to get some super long bolts that will work to go from that bottom flange all the way through the pooper.. thats like a 4″ bolt at least..
I’ve done a lot of building maintenance in my life and never have I ever seen a toilet flange sitting 1/2″ to 3/4″ below the floor. every flange I’ve seen has been level with the floor once a friend asked me to look at a toilet in a bathroom being remodeled And his toilet did not touch the floor at all. I removed the toilet from the flange and found the flange was on top of the floor I told him to remove the flooring under the flange, remove the flange and install a new flange level with the floor his toilet now sits level on the floor and functions properly.
I put my flanges directly on top of the Hardi backer board. Once the tile is installed, you’ll usually have an 1/8 above the floor with your flange which is perfectly fine. If you use a material like marble which is most of the time a little thicker than tile, just shim the flange by loosening the screws and thin setting under the flange. There is always a little room for adjustments. Might have to adjust a support in basement or crawl space. This is another reason why the best scenario is knowing all your materials you’re using way ahead of time from beginning to end.
Apparently my toilet was not installed properly. The subfloor is concrete slab. Next came the toilet flange. Then the tile finished floor. My understanding is the flange should have been above the tile. 20 years later the seal failed. I removed the toilet to find the finish floor is flush with the flange at 3 o’clock and proud about 1/16″ at 9 o’clock. To fix this would this kit be what I need. Plus use shims to make sure it’s all level. Thanks in advance for expert advice from the viewers.
a lot of guys say install flange after flooring, 2 probemse with that 1 the tile or wood guy will tile tight to your riser so now you got prep work. 2 upc code requires toilet flanges installed at rough inspection. Ive got 15 minutes to install 3 flanges then go to next house. no time to be cutting tile or hard wood to fit my ring
That’s one sloppy looking solder job. This is why you aren’t supposed to install your closet flange until set out. The few times I’ve put a flange in before finish floor I’ll put 3 wood spacers to make up for what ever it is, usually 3/4 to make up for hardie board and tile. Then the floor guys can run whatever they’re doing up u see the flange.
I’ve been a tile setter for 34 years. Worked in hundreds of bathrooms, set hundreds of toilets. The flange works best when sitting on top of the finished floor. This way only one standard wax ring is needed. Sometimes were forced to mud floors extra thick, due to being out of level. When this happens I’ll use a reinforced extra thick wax ring with a standard wax ring on top of it. Never had a leak in 34 years!
This looks awesome. I like that there’s an actual gasket between the flange and the spacer. The other brand of spacers don’t have a gasket. But what if the flange is on a a concrete slab? Do you have anything for that? Thank you again, I truly cannot wait to try your product on the next job that requires a higher flange.
I re did my basement bathroom like 10 years ago and the flange was quite a bit below the tile.. I just got a spacer and siliconed it to the flange and put in longer closet bolts. Hopefully it holds up.. I have yet to see any water seepage around the base of the toilet.. hopefully it stays that way 😮
He used a extended repair flange save $ get wood and ext repair pvc flange 4″coated drywall screws and cut led flange out with internal pipe cutter that attaches to drill prime and glue in after wood is down now u have something to compress to and it is permanently fixed congrats u saved 40-50$ but not using this system and u learned another way to do the same thing
Any plumber worth his salt knows this is laughable. If you can’t correctly install a toilet on a flange mounted to subfloor, find a different profession. Ideally, the flange is level with the finished floor. I always use 2 wax rings. First to seal any gaps between flange and floor. Second to seal toilet to flange. Try creating a product that is actually useful.
Really misleading. I just installed a metal PVC closet flange and if it were (and I tried it) set on top of the finished floor the toilet sits 3/16ths off the floor. So it has to be set to the subfloor to function. There are flush closet flanges and proud ones. He also doesn’t address the ‘coated’ closet flange bolts that rust away. They have a brass look but are nothing but mild steel. Very poorly done and will get a DIY er in trouble. Doug
This article is bull shit.. if you get a jumbo wax that has a bult in funnel it will seal. I have seen toilets sit on a flange that has been installed on the finished floor and then the toilet will sit too high and wobble. Then you end up shimming the toilet high or grouting the toilet in so that it sits firmly