This article discusses the importance of replacing copper pool pipes to ensure the longevity and safety of your aquatic oasis. Copper pipes have been a standard choice for pool maintenance, but they can cause potential issues such as collapses, termites, or black poly (except for the dry well line). If there are collapses, termites get at it, or it’s black poly (except for the dry well line), replace it all the way to the pool. The bottom drain, if it passes, should be replaced.
When choosing a material to replace copper pipes during a remodel, it is important to choose a material that increases energy efficiency and saves money. PEX pipes are commonly chosen, but they are not heat-resistant and could impact drinking water quality. PEX costs $0.50 to $2 per linear square.
If you don’t have any issues with your existing copper piping at home, there’s no need to replace it. However, when your house starts suffering damage like leaks, it is essential to replace all copper pipes. Copper pipes are likely nearing the end of their life, and if they leak or get very corroded, replace them with PVC or CPVC.
Old copper pipes should be replaced with PVC unless there is evidence of corrosion. Copper pipes are known to last over 100 years in old houses, so they should be replaced unless there’s some problem with them. Copper pipes should be fine for many, many decades, and there aren’t many 100-year installations.
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When should I repipe my copper pipes?
The average lifespan of pipes is 40-70+ years, with steel having a lifespan of 50+ years, copper having a lifespan of 50+ years, cast iron having a lifespan of 75-100 years, and plastic (PVC, CPVC, PEX) having an average lifespan of 75-100 years. The age of the pipes is a significant indicator of whether repiping is necessary. If the pipes are nearing the end of their lifespan or have surpassed it, whole-house repiping is recommended. The lifespan of pipes depends on their maintenance and exposure to hard water, which can accelerate corrosion.
If the pipes have not reached the end of their lifespan but have been subjected to harsh conditions, repiping may be necessary. If the pipes are made of lead, polybutylene, or galvanized steel, they should be completely replaced, as they pose significant health and home issues.
How long do copper pool pipes last?
The type of plumbing system used in a home can vary depending on its construction year. Modern systems typically use brass, copper, or PVC pipes, while older buildings used cast iron, lead, and galvanized steel. Each material has a lifespan, which can help determine if an upgrade is necessary. Brass, cast iron, and galvanized steel have a lifespan of 80-100 years, copper lasts 70-80 years, and PVC piping only lasts 24-50 years. While new construction is usually less problematic, older homes may need to check their piping material.
If the piping is relatively new, a preventive maintenance plan can help prevent future issues. Lead pipes, however, are highly toxic and can lead to hospitalization if consumed in small amounts. Tests can reveal the amount of lead in each pipe, and if it’s above the federally recommended level, water usage should be stopped immediately.
How much does it cost to replace copper water lines with PEX?
PEX, or cross-linked polyethylene tubing, is a cost-effective choice for repiping a house due to its lower cost, primarily due to lower labor and material costs. Compared to copper piping, which would cost $8, 000- $10, 000 to replace in a two-bathroom home, PEX would only cost on average $4, 000-$6, 000. PEX is also a flexible plastic hose that can be snaked into walls with minimal damage, reducing wall demolition and time and labor needed for installation.
Contacting a repipe specialist instead of a general plumber can save you money in the long run. While plumbers can identify issues with pipes, they often use short-term solutions for immediate problems that will persist in the long term. Repiping specialists can identify when the entire plumbing system needs to be replaced, ensuring all issues are fixed at once, eliminating the need to pay for general plumbers to fix problems.
How much does it cost to replace all copper pipes?
The mean expenditure for a residential repiping project is between $1, 500 and $15, 000, with copper being the most costly material. The financial outlay required is contingent upon the specific type of pipe employed, with copper representing the most costly option. Additional labor costs are estimated to be between $1 and $4 per linear foot.
How to tell if copper pipes are bad?
Copper pipes are a durable and cost-effective material, but they can eventually corrode due to constant contact with water. The first sign of corrosion is a blue-green stain on plumbing appliances, which can indicate a leak. Pinhole leaks are also common in corroding pipes. Despite their strength and affordability, copper pipes can eventually lose their integrity. To detect copper pipe corrosion, homeowners can either identify specific symptoms on or around their appliances or hire a professional for maintenance. By following these tips, homeowners can prevent future plumbing disasters and maintain their pipes’ longevity.
Are copper lines being phased out?
In January 2027, the ISDN and PSTN systems will be permanently closed, with all phone lines powered by VoIP technology. The PSTN system supports traditional UK phone lines, which have been using copper cable networks for nearly 150 years. The ISDN, which uses fiber optic cables, is a protocol that can also use copper cables. The switch-off will result in the transition to Internet Protocol for all phone lines. Other systems that use these lines will also transition to Internet Protocol.
Standard fibre-to-the-cabinet (FTTC) broadband will continue to operate, but will face lower speeds and less reliability compared to fibre or wireless broadband solutions. The transition to VoIP technology will significantly reduce the need for traditional phone lines in the UK.
Why don’t plumbers like PEX?
PEX, a common material, can be affected by various factors such as over-chlorination, dezincification, and pressure test failure. However, it is a more affordable option compared to other materials. PEX typically lasts around 50 years, with a half-life of 100 years compared to PVC, and half the lifespan of 50 years for PEX. Despite its durability and flexibility, PEX may not be as durable or flexible as PVC and CPVC. With minor adjustments over its lifetime, PEX is a more suitable choice for piping systems.
Should I replace my copper lines?
Copper plumbing, which was installed around 1945, can deteriorate rapidly after just 20 years of service, potentially extending its lifespan to 50 to 70 years. If your home’s plumbing was installed around 1945, it’s recommended to have an inspection by a professional plumber to assess the status of the pipes. If the pipes develop pinhole leaks due to acidic or corrosive conditions, they can be slow but steady, making it difficult to detect the leak. If the pipes turn black or greenish brown, become soft, and bulge out from the wall, it’s a clear sign of the pipes’ decline.
How do I know if my copper pipes need replacing?
Copper pipes typically last between 50-70 years, with an expected lifespan of at least 50 years. However, they can also experience water forming on the outside, green corrosion on the outside, and spots on the ceiling or walls from water leaking. Copper pipes are reliable and resistant to most forms of corrosion, but they may experience issues long before reaching their expected lifespan. It is important to monitor these signs and determine the right time to replace them.
Should I replace my copper pipes with PEX?
PEX piping, short for Cross-linked Polyethylene, is a popular choice for remodeling homes or upgrading piping systems due to its longer lifespan, resistance to scale buildup, and cost-effectiveness. It has been used in thousands of homes for decades and has a potential lifespan of over 100 years. PEX is more flexible than PVC, faster to install, and won’t corrode like copper pipes. Mac Plumbing recommends using PEX piping for its potential longevity and ease of installation.
Why did plumbers stop using copper tubing?
The CDC advises against using copper pipes in areas with lower pH levels, as they can cause corrosion. Water content should be tested and monitored, and acid neutralizers can be used to raise pH. Corrosion can also occur due to electrolysis, caused by improper grounding or connecting dissimilar metals to copper. However, pipes are more likely to leak before copper leaches into the water. Hard water, which contains high concentrations of minerals like calcium or magnesium, does not corrode copper pipes. It is crucial to check with local permitting offices for specific water levels.
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Should the return heads & pool light be replaced regardless of condition? If so, why? Also, during a “chip-out” of the plaster (gunite structure) does all the plaster get completely removed or does it look like a mogul snow ski-run with some plaster remaining and some gunite showing? If some plaster remains during the chip-out process how is there enough depth remaining to allow a new PebbleSheen surface to be applied to a uniform final coating thickness of material? Thank you! SPM in Sun Lakes, AZ
To change copper to pex-b, I would increase the diameter. For example, to replace 1/2 inch copper, how about use 3/4 inch pex-b. Likewise, replacing 3/4 copper, use 1 inch pex-b. The reason is that fittings for pex-b reduces the flow as the internal diameter is smaller (pressure drop). For pex-a, no need to increase the diameter because the fittings does not reduce the internal diameter. I would like to ask the pros if this method is ok to avoid pressure drop.
PEX only at best has a 25 year warranty and most PEX fittings only have a 10 year warranty, so the thought that any PEX job will be a 100 year job is dreaming. Copper is still king, but is expensive and harder to work with. I replaced all my copper with PEX because we had pinholes. Fortunately I am older and will not likely be here in even 25 years to see if it really holds up that well. The key to PEX (or any pipe/fittings) longevity is have a whole house filter that get the chlorine out (when on municipal water) as they will age pipe/fittings faster.
Our home built in 1968, copper piping, hard water well – constant rotten egg smell… Taked to water expert, he tested water and said high in iron. Copper pipes were green inside from chemical reaction causing the smell. Replaced all water lines with PEX and added iron filter before softener and no issues or smell for 7 years already 🙂
Weird trick I learned from tea bags, but applies here. Get a long paper towel cut it into a strip about 1-2 inches wide. Twist it tight length wise at a slight angle so it resembles a long pipe cleaner. You can put that down your tube and make sure the rest of the towel outside the pipe is lower than the water level you want to remove, then wet the rest of your paper towel. The surface tension of the water acts as a syphon. I’ve successfully done this to pipes 8-9″ down. Or just wet a cotton string, or get some small tubing and use them as a syphon.
I have a question for everyone. I own a 1 story house so the vast majority of the existing 1″ and 1/2″ copper plumbing is exposed in the basment. I have a hydronic heating system. Boiler & baseboard. There are 1/2″ lines leading to the various baseboard locations in each of the rooms above. Is pex type b suitable for replacement of the 1/2″ copper?
Unfortunately, many people believe that Sharkbite often fails. Which is not true, they do not fail, if installed correctly. We are not concerned because we’ve ever seen them failing. We haven’t. We are only concerned because we don’t have decades worth of experience that they keep up long term. But as far as we know, it is entirely possible that they work fine for 50 years and beyond. And by the way, my few decades old copper pipes are failing left and right. So I am tearing up all, and replacing them with pex. I trust it more than copper, even woth Sharkbite.
Map gas is the way to go. If you haven’t ever done this, you’ll want to practice on some scrap pipe. If you heat too long you’ll burn the out the flux and it won’t suck in the solder. The flux is what makes this work. Get a scrap of ceramic tile or similar for a heat shield in tight spaces so you don’t burn plastic pipes or set stuff on fire.
1:00 – serious question. I’m a homeowner and have been burned by lifetime this and 50 year that. I bought a house with “plastic” plumbing that I found out later was polybutylene. 4 leaks later… How do you know it’s a 100 year whatever? Seriously, that’s just repeating manufacturing claims or what?
Hey Jeff, You are institution for me. I am completely renovating few areas in my home. I was wondering what is pex grade pipe are you using ? I looked building code and it say CAN/CSA-B137.10 but I can not find all I am able to find is CAN/CSA-B137.5 Could you please share link of product from home depot or Wolseley ? Yes. I opened cash account to wholeseller after I took your advise. Thank you. Cheers to ottawa. I am also from same place.
Ugh as the more repairs I make in the copper pipe in my las vegas home I realize that it will have to be repiped in the next 10years,wirsbo is what I will go with since I will be keeping said home,pex is great if you plan on selling,but definitely not the strongest. Also I use a self-tightening copper cutter in close quarters makes it easier then spinning that wheel.Great article
Hello, I have black iron pipe in my basement that feeds hot water baseboards on the first floor. Could I cut out all the black iron in the basement and replace it with PEX? If so which type of PEX do I need? And, I assume I’d need an adapter that goes from the PEX line and threads into the baseboards? Is this true?
Yeah I’d just use a shark bite if I’m using pex. If you want something that will last 50+ years then you need to go all copper. Pex is only used because it’s cheap and easy to install, but it’s really not as good as copper. The plastic is going to degrade inside the pipe over the years, not really something you want to drink.
i just found out that there are Pex A and Pex B, cant remember if you said which one to use, but some research B should be fine for doing a shower? Its 1/2″ I read might be good to go up a size to 3/4″ but is that necessary? isnt the water pressure still subject to the shower fixture output? Would removing the water restrictor increase pressure? Thank you & as always love your articles Jeff & HRV team!
The interior of the pipe was not deburred properly. Please ensure you debur the inner part of the tube as it creates turbulence and you will find that you will get pin hole leaks just after your fitting in copper to copper. The wire brush doesn’t remove burs properly. Adding flux only to the end of the pipe being soldered not the inside as you can leave more residue than wanted and that eats the pipe from the inside, again going from copper to copper. This should be explained so that so it yourselfers aren’t misled from what is shown here.
The health implications is another very important factors to consider when deciding whether to use copper or PEX for the water pipes in your home. Copper has unique antimicrobial properties and is proven to continuously kill bacteria, viruses and fungi. Copper water pipes and copper touch surfaces exhibit well documented antibacterial, antiviral and anti-fungal properties. Copper kills over 200 different pathogens including cold and flu viruses. It’s the only solid metal touch surface registered as a public health product by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. Copper effectively and continuously kills germs in copper pipe. PEX does not.
Old geezer tip about flux: CLEAN UP THE MELTED OVERFLOW. Flux is great stuff but some folks forget that it is actually ACID. If you don’ t clean it up, 20 years down the road, you’ll notice that your pipes have corroded in spots where the flux oozed out to. If that area of the pipe has experienced condensation or moist conditions, a pinhole will develop and may eventually lead to a burst pipe. ASK ME HOW I KNOW!!! So do yourself a favour: take a few moments and wipe away the flux residue after you’ve made that beautiful sweat-soldered joint. Depending on the flux type, you might be able to get away with a soap and water soaked cloth to wipe it away, or you might be better off with a rag and some alcohol (maybe acetone or some other mild solvent.) It’s no use making a 100-year fitting if you’ll be flooded out in 20 years because your pipes turned into blue-green copper oxides. May as well have bought the Shark Bite fittings…
Best of luck on the longevity of that. The plumber used a quality name brand solder on conversion fitting and 4 years later the brass fitting was bad, it was a tee and literally crumbled when touched… luckily i heard the hissing in my wall. The fitting was a low lead “lead free” fitting as all are now…we check the other brass conversion fittings and some signs of deterioration. When we redid it recently we went pex all inside with plastic tees and fittings and made a single conversion connection in an access box outside. And while I used to would have always gone for the brass fitting over plastic, I can no longer trust the new planet saving brass they are producing. Maybe it’s improved in the last 4 years, but I won’t take that chance again
Hi Jeff! I recently removed the copper valve and the hot and cold water supply lines to the shower and tub spout in my kids’ bathroom. The hole where the valve and backplate were is about 8 inches or so in diameter and I don’t want to damage the fiberglass shower wall around it. I want to go from copper to Pex but I don’t think I’ll be able to get the crimpers to work through that small hole. There is a laundry room next to the bathroom where I can cut a hole in the wall to reach that area in order to install the Pex and new valve and I really don’t want to cut a hole in the wall because it was freshly painted not long ago. But I will if I have to. Do you have any suggestions on how I should tackle this?
Maybe I’m the only one having this problem with PEX-B but if you’re running PEX-B (crimping with copper rings), then it’s important to upsize your pipes then reduce it at the fixtures. For example, if your existing lines or architectural plans calls for 1/2″ pipes, then upsize to 3/4″ then branch off and reduce size it to 1/2″ at the fixtures. The reason to do this is because the fittings has a smaller inside diameter than the pex pipe itself. So if you’re running 1/2″ PEX-B, then the fittings will reduce the flow rate of the water. If you run multiple fixtures (i.e. running a dishwasher and washing machine at the same time), you’ll notice a considerable amount of reduction in water flow when you turn on your sink or kitchen faucet. Uponor or PEX-A doesn’t have this problem because of the design of their fittings.
Kind of surprised you didn’t talk about sharkbite fittings. Not sure if they are up to code behind walls there but in the USA they are allowed to be behind the sheet rock. I’ve had some installed in various places for over 10 years in my house and no leaks yet. And yes I know someone will say they might leak, but even solder joints can leak if not done right.