Sande plywood is a type of marine-grade plywood made from thin veneers of sande wood, each layer oriented at a 90-degree angle to the next, enhancing its strength and stability. The plies are bonded with high-quality adhesive, often waterproof, making it ideal for moisture-rich environments. Sande plywood is a high-quality, top-tier type of plywood that is carefully crafted from the wood of the Sande tree, a unique species native to the lush, tropical regions of Central and South America.
Sande plywood is known for its multi-layered construction, being strong, resistant to dents and scratches, and offering durability in various interior projects such as cabinets, furniture, shelving, wall panels, entertainment centers, tables, and more. It is produced from sustainably managed forests and plantations, and every piece meets the highest grading standard for strength and appearance. Sande plywood is a Home Depot Exclusive and is produced from sustainably managed forests and plantations.
Sande plywood is lightweight, especially compared to other types of plywood, and is used as an alternative to Meranti or Virola. The color is pale to brown with straight to interlocked grain, making it ideal for staining, painting, or laminating. Sande plywood is highly valued for its affordability, durability, and versatility in various woodworking and construction projects.
In summary, sande plywood is a high-quality, top-tier type of plywood made from the wood of the Sande tree, a species native to the lush, tropical regions of Central and South America. Its multi-layered construction, affordability, durability, and versatility make it an excellent choice for interior projects and exterior use.
📹 Plywood as Finish
I review: veneer types, grades, thickness, joinery, finishing, where and how to use it. -~-~~-~~~-~~-~- Please watch: “Making a Site …
Is Sande plywood safe to use?
Sande wood is frequently encountered in a variety of grades and types of plywood, solid wood pieces, and veneer sheets, with prices for imported hardwood that are relatively moderate. It is not included in the CITES Appendices and is classified as a species of least concern by the IUCN. No additional health-related reactions have been linked to sandalwood.
Is sande plywood marine grade?
Sande ply is available in two distinct varieties: interior and marine. The interior type is likely to be sold in box stores, whereas the marine variety is more likely to be sold through specialized lumberyards.
What is the strength of Sande wood?
Sande is a type of wood with a uniform yellowish white to yellowish or light brown color, medium to moderately coarse texture, and a wide and narrow grain interlocking. It has a density of 384 to 608 kg/m3 and a strength comparable to U. S. oak. The wood air-dries rapidly and is not durable against stain, decay, and insect attack. However, it can cause warp and fuzzy grain, and overheating of saws due to pinching.
Sande is used for plywood, particleboard, fiberboard, carpentry, light construction, furniture components, and moulding. The USDA FPL FS provides much of the base wood information, but more technical descriptions can be found at the source.
What is the disadvantage of marine ply?
Marine plywood is a cost-effective alternative to Medium Density Fiberboard (MDF) due to its manufacturing processes and thin layers. It is not waterproof and is difficult to identify due to its chemical properties. However, it performs well in both dry and wet environments, with minimal termite and fungus inside. Marine plywood is made with durable face and core veneers. While some people believe it is 100% waterproof, it is not entirely waterproof.
Despite this, marine plywood is good water-resistant and long-lasting, making it suitable for boat and ship parts. However, it is not completely waterproof, so it requires frequent replacement after a few years or decades.
Is Sande hardwood or softwood?
The product is composed of hardwood and exhibits durability due to its interior multi-ply panel/veneer grade B2, which is paintable, sandable, and stainable.
What is the difference between sande plywood and regular plywood?
Sande plywood is a lighter, smoother type of plywood compared to birch plywood, known for its unique aesthetic appeal. Its grain is less pronounced, giving it a distinct texture. Both types are known for their strength and durability, making them ideal for various woodworking projects. However, birch plywood is generally considered stronger than sande plywood.
Sande plywood is popular for projects requiring aesthetic appeal, such as furniture pieces and cabinetry. Its smooth surface is ideal for painting, staining, and other finishing techniques, enhancing its beauty. Birch plywood, on the other hand, is used for construction projects, such as flooring, where it can withstand heavy loads and prolonged use. Its exceptional strength makes it an ideal choice for heavy-duty construction projects and projects requiring high structural integrity.
Sande plywood is incredibly versatile, making it suitable for a wide variety of applications, including furniture construction, flooring, and crafting. Its adaptability to different uses makes it a preferred choice for many different projects.
Can sande plywood get wet?
Sande plywood is a versatile and high-quality material used in construction and home improvement projects. Although not naturally waterproof, it can be enhanced to increase its water-resistance capabilities through various treatments and sealants. This makes it suitable for environments where moisture is likely to be present, such as kitchens, bathrooms, and outdoor settings. Despite its inherent lack of water resistance, Sande plywood’s potential to withstand moisture through treatment makes it a reliable and practical option for various applications.
Sande plywood is also used in cabinetry, furniture making, and flooring due to its strength, aesthetic qualities, and durability. Its aesthetic appeal and aesthetic appeal make it a popular choice for an extensive array of applications. Its unique characteristics make it well-suited for a wide range of applications, making it a valuable choice for both ambitious craftsmen and seasoned construction professionals.
In conclusion, Sande plywood is a versatile and high-quality material that holds a significant place in the world of construction and craftsmanship. Its durability, versatility, and aesthetic appeal make it a popular choice for professionals and hobbyists alike.
What is the difference between marine ply and hardwood ply?
Softwood plywood, made from cedar, Douglas fir, spruce, pine, and fir (SPF), or redwood, is used for general building, roofing, or concrete formwork. Hardwood plywood, made from angiosperm trees, is used for demanding end uses due to its excellent strength, stiffness, and resistance to creep. Marine plywood, made from high-quality face and core veneers in biologically durable hardwoods, incorporates advanced resin technology for long life in both humid and wet conditions.
Shuttering plywood, the cheapest type, is used for boarding up or making formwork for poured concrete, but may have poor quality face veneers and defects. WBP plywood, made to an exterior grade called ‘WBP’ (weather and boil-proof), ensures the glue line won’t break down under adverse weather conditions and can withstand immersion in boiling water. Other commonly used terms for plywood include shuttering plywood, weather and boil-proof plywood, and marine plywood.
Is sandeply good for cabinets?
The user has employed the material for the construction of cabinet carcasses and drawers, but it may be utilized for other projects due to its robust adhesion and minimal voids.
Does sande plywood need to be sealed?
The use of exterior plywood in areas with high moisture content, such as bathrooms and kitchens, is crucial due to the inherent limitations of natural materials in resisting the effects of moisture and rot. Unsealed plywood is susceptible to warping, splitting, and degradation over time. Sealing plywood serves to enhance its strength, provides an attractive finish with waterproof paint, and offers versatility, as it can be used both indoors and outdoors.
What is the best finish for sande plywood?
In order to achieve the best results when using sanded plywood for exterior applications, it is recommended that an all-acrylic latex house paint system, comprising a primer and topcoat, be employed. This approach ensures optimal penetration, bonding, and minimal extractive staining.
📹 Plywood Spiral Staircase
This DIY spiral stair is made out of 3/4″ plywood. I used a small CNC machine from Inventables to make this for my Boston loft.
I am a design draftsman with larger background as woodworking contractor. I did a number of plywood (finish) build outs for a prominent architectural firm in my area as well as designing other installations for high end design/build millwork shops. Done right, it does take on a special character. And of course the famed miter fold is indispensable.
The first picture you show, looks like poured concrete with wood backing and then removing the wood to show the grain? We have that type of building style here in Israel. We are hoping to move to America very soon. I have made plywood a floor finish in two of my homes, and it was beautiful and extremely durable. I pulled up the carpet, scrubbed it down, stained it, and poly’d it. Done! I loved it. Looked very nice stained a darker color. I am thinking of going with a grey floor the next time though.
I have a lot of plywood furniture because much of my furniture is 1950’s style. I would like walls like these, so thank you for the slide-show and explanations. Very good. It would be nice if you did a program on the specific joints used to make those exposed joints. I would think just a thin spline of some alternate color, or some metal, like stained glass. Thank you.
8:18 That is impressive… because you can’t even tell that it is Plywood… I have always thought of plywood as “Cheap” (that is a joke… even cheap plywood is not cheap anymore)… This article has shown me the versatility of Plywood… I am a plywood snob… I want to use plywood… I just don’t want it to LOOK like cheap plywood 6:54 This bothers me… it just looks like someone put up PLYWOOD… without staining it or painting it… It YELLS “Plywood”…
There are hardwood floor finishes such as Bona’s Traffic HD and Traffic that are waterborne finishes that are extremely durable. Even more durable than oil modified finishes. Another siding finish that can be affordable is laminate, laminate flooring or engineered hardwood flooring. You can also buy higher quality plywood designed for flooring at completive prices. This kind of plywood many times is typically designed to have less imperfections, be a higher grade, have no core weaknesses or hollow spots. Products like Multi ply or similar brands may make good choices. Typically they are available in 4×4, 4×5 and 4×8 foot sheets.
Do you have any suggestions for how to achieve a close joint finish for ceilings? We don’t want to use a trim or shadow gap detail. Our contractor is concerned that the boards will be uneven at the joins, both in terms of gaps between them, and also to get them all to sit at the same level. There are so many photos of these types of ceilings, but without a t&g board, is it difficult to achieve?
Wow, Eric! I am glad I found your website. So much practical info and inspiration for architecture and life, for professional and shelter dweller. FYI, I am a home owner designing a New Paradigm homestead with interior Scandinavian style. Maybe a consultation in the future, if it pans out? I would like to see a article about you and your family, and your island home, if you have the time and inclination, as further inspiration. One of my favorite books is “Carl and Karin Larsson – Creators of the Swedish Style” about the home and life style that these two artists created in Sweden at the turn of the last century – bright and inspirational. A article about Eric and family might have a similar effect and, for you, record these last few years (up to age 18) of your time with the kids for your future remembrance. The content and your organized, succinct and positive presentation of your articles are so useful, inspirational and a good example to follow. Thanks for sharing so much on You Tube. (yep, I look like a Viking – part of my background too and my visit to Norway at age 16 was a positive milestone in my life)
well that was amazing, I have 25+ years of finish woodworking and restoration, and I always loved the marriage of the new and old, of the old brick buildings with big windows and modern furnishings and cabinetry, I’ll follow your website, and hope to see what else you can create with all this awesome machines.. great job guys…
This is such a beautiful project in every way. I love the look of exposed (good) plywood edges. the digital collaboration really makes it special. The age we’re in makes this type of normally a very specialized project accessible to anyone. Very much looking forward to what you come up with Autodesk.
saw this post on instagram and i cannot wait to see how you did this. it’s so AMAZING!!! saw one of your old vid making a sofa few weeks ago and i was so inspired with everything you did (and also because you showed it in a way that as if you were just making dinner for 3. lol) i decided to be a woodworker and make winderful things too. Thank you so much for inspiring me. and i so look forward for more articles! 😊 😊 😊
The result is fantastic! Do you think it’s possible to build each step separately in a workshop in order to assemble the spiral staicase faster? Once you arrived to the top did the last step got higher or lower than expected? Also another question, how many hours of CNC did it took to cut this project? thanks
I’ve never seen plywood end up looking so beautiful. 🙂 That said, this setup screams for gard-rails. It would be interesting to see what innovative/attractive solution would be best here. One could have precut holes in each layer for cast iron pipes on each step for a super- solid rail. (bit late fore that, though, and it may not be your style. 🙂 )
It would have been better to build a jig, glue half of the step in a time, then another half, leave out the back sides and glue them in later when assembling one half step at the time. additionally pipe could had welded pipes on the sides that go inside the lower part of the stair, get screwed on and top part hides it(though this would needed some alterations on the design)
Great staircase. I was just thinking about spiral staircases, and bam… it’s in my recommended. I think google hears my thoughts. Oh, BTW… this can be made 100% with only a saw and router. You only need the ability to cut out each step section by hand. Then use them as top bearing templates on a router table. (or bottom bearing templates with free hand router) It’s surprisingly faster than a hobbyist CNC machine. You could literally be cutting while one person is stacking and glueing.
Amazing!!! tremendous amount of work!!! beautiful job!!! I have a cnc plasma cutter. we make handrails, benches, fire pits, truck bumpers, metal signs, and several others things “custom”. as you mentioned, we use digital combined with traditional tools such as welders, grinders and saws..Look us up at ELY WELDING AND FABRICATION, click on the razorback.. again, your staircase is amazing!!!
That is very impressive! Well done, sir, and very attractive, you did a wonderful job! I, myself, don’t know how to use all these tools, but I come from a family of men who are very skilled at house DIY and I can really appreciate what you’ve done here. I plan on perusal more of your vids for ideas at my own home..thank you for such a great website!
The ‘jaggy’ 3/4″ ply edges along the bottom of the staircase have a certain binary appeal design-wise, but I couldn’t get past visualizing that endless OCD nightmare of futzy edge-sanding. Then I imagined that lower surface as smooth helical ramp instead, like its concrete cousins…now THAT would almost be a pleasure to sand in comparison, and the aesthetic, for me anyway, would be much improved. From perusal most of the X-carve article, I take it that it can’t articulate (or even slope) its spindle off the Z-axis – true? Since I’ve got zero experience with CNC stuff of this generation, is that a “high-end-only” feature I’m talking about? That edge cut would need to start off at something like 80 degrees near the spine, and flatten out smoothly to ~30 degrees or so at the edges. What would that take to accomplish?
The esthetic is so amazing that I think a rail would dampen the look, perhaps an interior rail that traces the inside of the column versus an outside rail to prevent someone falling off the stair case. Either way absolutely amazing combination of contemporary & modern design, please do a follow up article on its final transition.
The railing will be a huge challenge because now it looks soooo COOL! The result is amazing, thanks for sharing the project for free! It is going to be hard to keep the minimalist look… I am very curious but also a bit scared to see the railing solution. Have you thought just putting some vertical steel cables (painted white?) around the perimeter?
A perfect result, it looks great. Just a very minor detail you could improve. If you offset the cut through the centre circle at each layer by 90°, you gain additional strength without using more material. Two layers would already clamp the pole without the opposite piece. I am sure it is rock solid as you build it, just an additional layer of security.
I work with a Motoman to do some robotic welding. There is a lot cool things you make with these automatized robots, I made script of Ohio on it before and you can do some additive stuff with it too. I recommend attending FABTECH conference where all these companies go a show what their automatized robots can do. I seen some pour coffee and play Jenga. Haha. Excited to see what you do with your collaboration
Hi Ben +HomeMadeModern, I just subscribe to your website just incase if i lost all of your articles. your website does inspired me to do things by my own, but for now i don’t have the tools yet. may i ask you about, how much it cost for these staircase and how many hours you took to build it (from cutting to assembling)? Cheers
Ben, This staircase reminds me of the one that I saw on a British Show. The TV Show is called “Grand Designs”. I do not remember the season; though the episode is entitled as “Minimalist house/Headcorn”. The home owners that built their own house a a unique CNC staircase made for their home. Just thought to share.
If you were going to CNC it all along, I would’ve used a hollow pattern for most of the inside pieces, and split them radially. That way you could stack a bunch of “half steps” into a single sheet, use far less material, and actually show off some architectural engineering by designing an internal structure in the hollow parts. or you know, brute force it
Nice styling. I would like to add that you could have pre drilled/slotted the penetrations for the handrail posts to keep the exterior line clean for the rail, in the Cnc pattern to save time later. I also wonder with a slightly adjusted retainer bracket, you could have possibly prebuilt the steps in sections, so more bench work and curing of the glue, without load pressure for a shorter final build. I see someone suggested a floor. How about a tessellated floor in 2 different veneered plywoods for contrast. It would work for Cnc or router work..
Very cool looking but way too labour intensive. Especially when you include the amount of time the CNC is running etc. I personally prefer the look of natural wood. I love the design but it is really not practical to build in my view. I would definitely like to see how the stairs wear when taking into account the durability of plywood.
Amazing looking stairs, something like this would cost thousands of $$ to have made, two small changes I would do is round the base plate of the pole to completely hide it under the plywood, and nail / glue the top piece of plywood on so no screws would need to be filled, other than that fantastic job, when will you have the DWG files uploaded ?
I have some questions, if the place that I need to install from first floor to second floor has 9 ft tall space. How would I know where the entering stair-step should start(like which side the first stair start) that the last stair-step(top landing part) will be sure faceing my second floor door. How many stair-step will there be in between ?
For more strength, you should make the part of the disk around the pole on the stair side greater than the 180 degrees you currently have. Ideally you just need enough of a notch to slip in the pole. And you should stagger the seams for these 2 pieces for every piece of plywood within each step, not just between steps. I think these changes would improve the integrity of the staircase around the pole without detracting from the amazing aesthetics of the current design.