Anthony Pezzotti, a professional painter, shares tips and techniques for painting walls faster and more efficiently. He emphasizes the importance of selecting the right tools and techniques to make the job go faster, look better, and finish cleaner. Professional painters develop procedures over time that make their jobs go faster, look better, and finish cleaner.
To avoid lap marks, it is essential to keep a wet edge up the full height of the wall. This will help prevent ugly stripes caused by improper painting. To achieve professional-quality results, even novice DIYers should follow these tips. Painting the interior of a home can be a fun experience, with the transformation being dramatic.
To paint a room like a pro, gather all necessary supplies at once, prepare the room first, skip the tape, skip the primer, start with the ceiling, roll, then cut in, and minimize the time between coats. Speed painting is the fastest and easiest way to paint walls, with an 8 x 10 foot wall with a coat of paint taking about a minute.
To paint a room fast, remove obstacles, protect surfaces, patch and sand imperfections, prime, and paint. Use wide paint rollers, such as 12-inch or 18-inch rollers, and apply plastic masking film to cover any imperfections. By following these tips, you can paint your room faster and more neatly than ever before.
📹 How to Paint A Room Fast Like A Pro (Tips for Beginners)
In this video, I show you tips and techniques that teach you how to paint your room or house better and faster than ever before.
📹 Professional Painter Shows The Fastest Way To Paint A Wall
Anthony Pezzotti from Pezzotti Painting is a professional painter. He shows us how to prime a wall and the specific pattern he …
Yes the diagonal slash works really well but don’t slant it to far forward because you will thin the paint coat out too much and sometimes depending on the new color it won’t cover the old paint. A regular 15 ft long wall should have a slash every 3 ft (5 slashes) with a 9in roller and every 5ft with an 18in roller(3 slashes). This interval varies depending on the height of the wall.
Painting is so simple. You either slap a big fat V or W on the wall and back roll through your paint. Now, cutting in. That takes patience and practice. But dear lord PLEASE buy good shit when painting. Spring for the Purdy and don’t buy some super cheap multi pack of covers that are gonna leave more material on the wall than paint. And all a chip brush is good for is basting BBQ. Don’t ever seriously think that’s an option. PLEASE, and prime the damn surface. If you have paint failure and didn’t prime, that “lifetime” warranty doesn’t mean shit. And if the manufacturer suggests a certain tinted primer for the color you picked, just spend the extra couple of bucks and get it. Otherwise you’re gonna be real pissed off when you’re like 5 coats in and that red you picked STILL doesn’t match the color chip.
Omg a tradesman… It’s not like everyone hasn’t been shitting on trades for the last decades. He’s a properly trained painter. If people didn’t hate on workers this would be more the norm to see. Instead you get, guys out of Craigslist, and only crews worth a damn pass down skills like esoteric knowledge.
I’ve been a painting contractor for 20 plus years and I’ve never used a roller pan for painting walls. Professional painters use 5 gallon buckets with a metal grid. We also only use lambskin roller covers and Wooster poles and handles with the quick release. Corona chinex brushes for latex and coronal ox hair for oil. The nap on the roller depends on what you are rolling. Smooth walls we use 1/2 inch nap mostly. Corona has some good micro fiber roller covers if you want no texture. 5/8″ nap. And we only use 9″ roller covers.
And yet they dont point out that the article is sped up and the guy uses professional paint rather than generic from b&q. For example dulux professional is thicker than normal dulux because no business wants decorators taking 4 days to paint. Professional paint is always thicker so you need less coats. Source: my family are 15 generations of painters and decorators ETA: sorry about spelling and English, it is not my 1st language
These articles leave out important things while trying to make the guy out to be so fast. For starters, how about laying out all your drop cloths, removing all the switch plates and then all of the cutting in, not to mention using one of the longer oversized rollers… And last but not least, the article is sped up. Thanks for insulting our intelligence 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Please don’t hurt yourself trying to copy this guy. That roller frame would have anyone painting like a god. First of all it’s centered in the middle so it’s well balance and the paint would go on more even, then the weight of it pressing against the wall helps a lot, the rollers themselves hold so much paint
Except that you will see brush marks in the corners. So, when I paint the corners with a brush, I also use a mini roller to remove the brush marks, because I care about quality more than speed. Then I use a bigger roller to paint the rest of the wall. Painting fast doesn’t always give the best quality…
I’m always amazed by English speakers’ words choice because they always respect people’s jobs like adding ‘professional’. In Indonesia, you always goes by adding ‘tukang’ + whatever noun it is. For example, ‘tukang bunga’ which means florist. We could’ve said ‘perangkai bunga’ to make it sound more polite. By saying tukang bunga, it really sounds impolite and not respecting other people’s job.
I was gonna type it. Yes the size of the roller is am important factor when it comes to how many times we have to dip that in the paint. I usually paint my room and do wall art on them yearly. The amazing thing is I was using that V technique too. I didnt knew thats an actual technique. 😂 Im amazed.
From a pro painter….. Preparation is the most important part….. Put paint on wall in a “W” pattern ….. Always use the “roller frame” (leading edge) for whatever direction you are rolling. Flip the roller back when you change directions. And most IMPORTANTLY…… DO NOT RUN THE ROLLER DRY!!! keep plenty of paint on the roller sleeve. Running a roller sleeve dry wil.ruin it and when it starts to “shed” it will leave the nap on the wall and in your paint as it comes apart. Make sure you use the right length nap on your roller sleeve for the right application. A short nap is best for oil base or glossy/semi-gloss vinyl paints typically used to paint bathrooms…kitchens… doors and window frames and trim. Medium length nap for drywall and or panels and long nap for cinderblocks or bricks. Keep your roller wet ( dunk into paint bucket or can and put lid on) or clean properly so in between jobs you won’t get lumps of dry paint on your walls or doors and if you do you can pour your paint through a nylon stocking to get it cleaned out. Bonus tip….lol To mix a can of paint after opening you can take a wire or thick plastic coathanger and cut it so it can be attached to a portable hand drill and make an angle that will help “stir” the paint and make sure the speed of your drill is set to a slow speed so you don’t end up splashing the paint everywhere. You will love this trick…especially for mixing custom tinted paint or old paint stored for long periods of time. . Oh yeah also get rid of the “pan”.
This is easily 1.5x sped up. Probably more like 2x. 18″ roller is heavy. 14″ is much lighter. Can do an 8 hour shift with 1/2 hour lunch break no problem. Using a 14″ Sherlock Roller and a 14″ Arroworthy Viodel roller with ½” nap, the standard is about 1500 sf per hour on first coat. That’s 12,0000 sf of wall. I tend to use 9″ on ceilings and smaller areas. I personally will help the person cutting in get ahead for about 30 minutes. They guy doing the rolling will cut the ceiling. Two coats, ceilings, walls, trim and we knock out a small empty house or larger condo in a day. If we have to prime, day and a half. If you can hack it, that is no less than $250 per day or about $33.50 per hour. Even if you can’t you can make $25 per hour on smaller one day jobs or 2 day jobs that should have only taken a day and a half. Then there are jerks who want to pay $15 and have you work the pace and skill level worth more than double that.
The major difference is the length of the roller, when using a manual roller, size does matter, most people buy a 230mm or a 250mm at the most, but if you buy a 360mm x 12mm nap then your painting time will be halved, I think a 450mm roller is too big for most beginners, the second halve of it is the quality of the paint, never buy cheap paint, plus if you have to put a undercoat or primer, get it tinted to at least 50% to 75% of the top coat color, it will save you heaps of pain.
Way back in high school (up hill both ways, avoid the dinosaurs) I helped paint the set for a school play. The art teacher told us that the way to do it was to make a big “V” at the start…but told us it helped the paint stick better. We dutifully obliged…with our not-over-loaded tools (rollers & brushes). Didn’t seem to make any sort of difference to any of us…& why would the paint need to stick “better” on a set that’d be trashed fairly soon? Ok, Mr. R…& thanks for making fun of students who helped & got paint on themselves.
this is misleading, they dont tell you what kind of rollers or paint he uses and how well the walls were prior to painting, IT ALL MATTERS if the last guy did a crap job you need to fix that persons mistakes before you get a nice looking paint job, also most walls take 2 coats to get a good finish on.
The V or W is a good technique, but this guy is too close to the wall, and uses way too much energy and movement plus has uneven pressure on the roller. A much better technique is to stand further back and use the arms and wrists with the long leverage of the long roller handle, instead of backs-legs-arms-whole body he is doing. It also makes the pressure much more even (hence distributing paint more evenly too). His technique is great for a cardio workout, but not painting all day. Impressive cutting in though; I always mask because I can’t cut that well.