Montgomery, AL offers a variety of appliance repair services, including Clark-Rothschild Appliance Repair, Tatum’s Appliance Repair, Mr. Appliance of Montgomery, Handyman Home Repairs, J and B Appliance Repair, Hare Appliance Service, All Appliance Repair, and Chandler Appliance. Some popular services for appliances and repair include Haier, Services GE, Grill Repair, Freezer Repair, and Dishwasher Repair.
Some of the top appliance repair companies in Montgomery, AL include Clark-Rothschild Appliance Repair, which has received positive reviews from customers. They offer fast, quality repairs backed by industry-leading warranties and use genuine GE Appliances parts. To schedule your service, call 651-0718 for fast service, and they can fix most major brands and appliances quickly, same day.
HomeAdvisor prescreened appliance services, cleaning, and maid services in Montgomery, AL. Mr. Appliance of Montgomery is a reliable service that can repair most makes and models of washers, dryers, range ovens, refrigerators, dishwashers, and garbage disposals. They service Montgomery, Pike Road, Prattville, and other areas.
Bodewell, a home appliance care experts in Montgomery, AL, has a certified and expertly trained team of technicians ready to help you. They specialize in repairing major appliances such as refrigerators, dishwashers, and dryers.
There are several appliance repair and installation services available in Montgomery, AL, including Davis Yard and Garden Place, JNT Repair, H and R Services, Better Maintenance, and Bernard Horton. These services provide expert assistance and are available to help you find the right appliance repair and installation services for your needs.
📹 Refrigerator Repair (Not Cooling, Defrost System)
The #1 Most Common Refrigerator Issue…Defrost Problems! Something as simple as leaving the refrigerator door open can strip …
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Appliance Repair Montgomery, At Mr. Appliance, our mission is to be an all-around appliance repair resource for our customers.
I want to say. I first watched your article in 2011, and 3 years later, it still comes in handy, let me explain how. We have the same Whirlpool-made Top-Freezer model that you showed in this article. We have one of those outdoor cabanas, and early this year our freezer door would bind just before fully closing, and none of us noticed it for a while, so, considering it is outside, you can only imagine how much humidity was going into the freezer. The ice got so bad, that it blocked off the drain hole, and when the refrigerator went into defrost, the water from the melted ice started going though the air-return slots and making puddles on the refrigerator shelves below. Since we didn’t have any thing that can spoil in it yet, I took one of the steps in this article. I shut it off by the circuit breaker (because it is easier than pulling it out to unplug it) and kept it off for 2 days, because I kept the doors closed due to pollen outside. I came back to it then, and the ice was all gone, and everything was nice and dry again, so I turned it back on. 2 weeks later, there is no more huge ice build up, or puddles on the shelves. Thanks again!
@Terabass It sounds like you are on the right track. In most cases a heating circuit component will ether work or not…so if you can get it to work with your computer you likely have a electrical supply problems. Realistically frost should not accumulate at the diffuser unless there is a problem with the defrost system or the door was left open, so you may want to check the defrost thermostat or let it melt down before you decide if you want to fork out the cash for a new control board.
Thank you for giving your knowledge in such a way that is easy to understand. I do have a problem with my Kenmore Frig. The freezer has not been freezing right for a little while. It is on the bottom of the system and I just thought that when we shut the frig part that the freezer door would open and that was causing the problem. While the other night the outside of the freezer part was very hot to touch. I pulled it out and the dust that was on the back was as thick as a piece of felt.
Try this to get the freezer working again. I have an LG Top-Bottom Fridge that was having the same trouble. Compressor and exterior fan were working fine but the freezer was not cooling. I removed the front interior trim of the freezer and saw that the evaporator fan was not working. I carefully unscrewed it from the housing frame behind the trim and checked the resistance and continuity on the wire connector which were excellent. Now I’ve seen repairmen who would just tell you to replace the fan but at that time of day that was not an option. Having done this before with a standing fan, I realised that all this fan wanted was a cleaning and lubricating of the magnets and impeller respectively. Eventually over time with these two there is a build up of dirt, and rust in some cases, which must be cleaned and so here is where WD 40 is your best friend. I used some of this on a paper napkin to wipe the two surfaces after which I used some treadmill silicone oil, you can use something similar, on the curved surface of the impeller as well as the shaft and end joint housing. I reinstalled the evap fan and plugged it in. Not only did it spin, but it spun faster than before. Also, make sure you clean the plastic fan blade which should just pop off the impeller shaft. I placed mine under the faucet and used some dishwashing soap. Hope this tip helps someone to save some time and money. 😀
So a few months ago my fridge turned off one day and didn’t turn back on. I learned about the defrost timer and how turning it with a screwdriver/giving it a tap can get it going again, which worked for me for a while. However, recently my fridge no longer goes into defrost mode, and the freezer/fridge have gotten warmer. The freezer part is cold enough to preserve food and get drinks cold but can’t keep ice frozen and the fridge is only slightly below room temp. I’ve recently replaced the temp control thermostat but that didn’t work. The screwdriver in the defrost timer no longer does anything but turn the fridge off after turning it a few times. Could replacing the defrost timer be the fix or did the issue get worse? Your article quality is very good btw, you are a real professional.
This article is INCREDIBLE! You clearly state all the problems that could go wrong with the defrost system, how to diagnosis the problem and how to fix it. Over the summer, I am manually defrosting every 2 weeks. When I do it again in a few days, I will get my multimeter and figure out if its a bad sensor or a bad heating element and then try to fix it myself. A repairmen said it would cost $100 just to come to my rural location and diagnose the problem. I have a receipt left by the previous home owner showing he paid $200 to have the “defrost control board” replaced 10 years ago. Thanks to this article, I can determine, myself, for free, if that repair needs to be done again or if it is something else. THANKS!
Yes there are many different kinds. Most are just process of elimination… check the heater and the thermostat and if the doors were not left open then it is probably the control. Some GE refrigerators have a thermistor that should read about 60Ω of resistance when 0ºF that is how the control board knows when to activate a defrost cycle. But most just have the three defrost components and no sensor. Hope that helps! Thanks for the question!
I know you posted this nearly 10 years ago, but here in 2020 you sure helped point me in the right direction! Thank you for the lesson in the basics of how the auto defrost works. I’m sure that’s my problem due to the back panel of the freezer just covered with frost, and after removing that panel I found the whole coil area caked with ice. I’m getting all that ice off so I can check the thermostat and heating element.
This explains a lot. My side-by-side Frigidaire’s defrost stopped working and the freezer coil turned into a block of ice. With no air movement, everything started getting warm. The fridge repairman replaced the thermostat, but also said that the “board” should also be replaced at a cost of $300. He ordered the board, but for the 3 or 4 days before the part arrived, the defrost cycle operated normally both the fridge and freezer side were nice and cold. I kept checking the coil in the freezer and there was no ice buildup. I canceled any further repairs because the board was obviously not needed.
@06GTFanatic The fan in the freezer should definitely be on if the compressor is running. You may just have a problem with the evaporator fan. You should also check the coils down by the compressor and make sure they are clean. Email me through my website with your model number and I can do some more checking for you. The link is in the vid description. Glad you liked the article! Thanks for posting!
Freezer fan blowing cool air but not freezing food or water. Whirlpool top freezer 13 years old.Condenser coils are clean, door gaskets seal good, compressor is not hot and food in freezer real cold but, water in ice tray will not freeze. The fresh food department is cool and not cold. Please help! Awesome article. Thanks so much.
This is a solid article which I’m sure has saved a lot of people a lot of money! My fridge has frosted over twice, once after the door was left open and again ten days later. I’m slightly suspicious the door was left open again. If it wasn’t, could the coils/vents have frosted over that quickly without a working defrost system?
@jurnagin Normally turning the controls all the way up would not cause a block of ice, but there may have been a defrost problem or ice buildup that caused you son to think that he needed to do that in the first place. If the problem comes back after a few days after you deiced it check that the air ducts are clear and the evaporator fan is working. If all that looks good you will need to check the defrost thermostat and timer for proper operation.
The temperature should rise during the defrost cycle so if the thermostat is working properly then it should be closed trying to start the cooling cycle again. Also the defrost timer only advances when the compressor is energized so it cannot advance into the defrost cycle unless the thermostat is closed “on” energizing the circuit. Thanks for the question!
Blessed good night to you ApplianceAssistant. You did a very wonderful article n explanation on how the fridge works, but you lost me at infinite resistance. If it’s possible I will like to hear about that more indebt. You have done a really wonderful presentation that was very educational. Thank you very much. My refrigerator is not cooling but my freezer works but when I put ice trays it’s not freezing. Only on the floor of the freezer. Will very much appreciate some tips on what to do pretty please.
Tha’ts awesome! Watch very closely in the next few days to a week for frost accumulating on the back wall of the freezer! If you see frost it’s an early warning that you have a mechanical problem and food loss is soon to follow. Hopefully you don’t need it, but if you do, I have a lot of refrigerator troubleshooting content on my website. The link is in the description of the article. Thanks for commenting!
Thank you for giving your knowledge in such a way that is easy to understand. I do have a problem with my Kenmore Frig. The freezer has not been freezing right for a little while. It is on the bottom of the system and I just thought that when we shut the frig part that the freezer door would open and that was causing the problem. While the other night the outside of the freezer part was very hot to touch. I pulled it out and the dust that was on the back was as thick as a piece of felt.+
Yes that would cause fresh food cooling problems. That evaporator fan looks like a normal 120 AC voltage motor so apart from some very strange control issue you probably just need a new fan motor. You can eliminate the control as a cause by checking for AC 120 at the fan terminals with a volt meter. If that looks good it is definitely the fan motor. If you need to buy the fan I would appreciate it if you purchased through the links on my website! The link in in the article description. Thanks!
To be specific like what happened to our Samsung double door fridge, it’s the heating element that needs to be replaced. If both freezer and fridge doesnt get cold and no cold air blowing out you need to replace the whole Control Board. Good for us ours is still under warranty until 2012. Always nice to get extended warranty for appliances that costs more than $1000. I hope this helps.
Here is a simpler way that we use instead of all these voltage checks, through on a amperage gauge, compressor running and cold air coming out should draw 1 to 2 amps, now turn the defrost timer till it click, on comes the heater 1 to 2 amps, now heater will run till cold temp thermostat reaches 45 degrees off goes the heater element, and you tested all that with out taking off anything. Wow.
Great article – thanks for posting it, and for being so on top of responding to comments! Very informative stuff. I had no idea what the inner workings of a fridge looked like/how they functioned. I started paying attention when my fridge died due to the compressor crapping out. I didn’t repair it myself, but learned about some sounds. No ‘old truck’ sounds, but it had an interesting buzzing. I posted my own “what is this?” article and got good responses
@djkaneck1 Great! Just keeping the settings on “factory recommended” in the middle should be good. Main maintenance tips would be… 1. to clean the dust out of the black coils under the refrigerator with a vacuum from time to time. 2. make sure the doors are not getting blocked from closing all the way by some rogue catchup bottle or ice cream container. Thanks again for perusal, commenting, and sharing!
Thanks for this. My fridge freezer was warm this morning in both compartments and the compressor wouldn’t come on when turning up to full power. I pulled it out, cleaned dust from round the back, cleaned the evaporator tray (which had some hard limescale in it) and turned back on. Nothing happened but I left on anyway. I then noticed 10 minutes later the compressor is now humming and the fan is spinning in the freezer. I’m thinking where I put a warm loaf of bread in the freezer last night it blocked the fan and maybe ice froze in the drain, stopping it working? Fingers crossed.
Well done article. Do you have any tips on trouble shooting a Viking D-3 Freezer? A few months ago, showed some frost, but now it’s stopped making ice and everything is room temperature! We had gotten extended warranty due to repeated failure of these units, but now that’s expired ! Any suggestion or help would be greatly appreciated.
@MrMindShifter The defrost cycle should happen every 8 to 10 hours of compressor run time which is usually every few days depending on how often you open the door. If the food is frozen generally you are okay. Ice cream is an excellent indicator of proper freezer temperatures because it changes consistency very rapidly depending on temperatures. It’s also a great reason to stock some ice cream 🙂 Mechanically the thermostat is the only thing that may be causing large temp swings…
This article has helped me understand what is really wrong with my fridge, but I still have a problem with it. Is my fridge system messed up if both freezer and fridge aren’t that cold? The fridge hasn’t been cool in more than a month and the freezer has pretty much been the fridge due to it not being able to freeze anything in there. I have a Frigidaire Model fpd14tfw0 if that helps, right now I tried to fix it up so air can be deployed in the fridge so I’ll see what happens. Thanks for the article
You took me from zero to hero! I fixed the fridge a couple weeks ago! I’ve since referred many people/friends/family to it as well 🙂 Question — my friend left the door open overnight :/ Frost has been growing on the back freezer wall over the past 24-36 hours. I’m guessing that the defroster isn’t given enough time on the cycle to melt it all away, hence the growing? What can I do besides transferring all the food and airing it out? Can I manually advance multiple melt-cycles in a row?
Just discovered the freezer door has been left open, don’t know how many hours. Closed the door but after waiting half an hour the freezer temp still says -7c when it should be -19c approx. and there’s a bit of water. Can’t find the brand/make number of the fridge. Does this mean the fridge will not circulate it’s temperate properly? It still says 5c atm. I take it I need to take the drawers out of the freezer and get a hairdryer in there? This is all new to me so sorry if it’s all stupid questions!
@taracatherine3810 Leaving the door cracked while the unit is running would probably magnify the problem…the fact that it seemed to help makes me think that the air return duct from the fresh food side may be the one clogged and by leaving the freezer door open you were creating a new way for air to move back into the freezer. Did unplugging it and letting it thaw out help? Sorry for the slow response, December madness has got me running in all directions.
Good stuff Appliance Guy, My 6y/o GE Over/Under Model GBS22HCPABB isn’t cooling. All of the fans are working, the thermostat works to turn on the compressor and condenser fan, the defrost heater is not turning on, this tells me that is should not be in the defrost cycle. My guess is that the R143a has leaked out somehow…any thoughts?
@liber8xion1 Thank you! 1.5 hours may not have been enough time depending on how frozen the air ducts are, even with the doors wide open… You can advance the defrost timer into a defrost cycle if the other defrost components are working. It is located inside the control housing in the refrigerator section. I can’t tell if there is a access hole for advancing knob or not… The other possibility is the evaporator fan… Do you hear the fan in the freezer working?
@FORDGTFANATIC If the cooling compartment is not down to temperature the thermostat should be energizing the compressor. If the compressor is not being supplied with current the thermostat may be bad or a loose contact. If the compressor is being energized but is not turning on, ether the overload relay or the compressor is out. If the compressor is running but cold is not being generated you have a coolant leak or there is a restriction within the sealed system. Doesn’t sound good.
@ICUC007 Good question…I don’t see one on the diagram for that model. I would guess that it is a “hot wall condenser” on some refrigeration appliances (mostly upright freezers) the condenser is foamed into the sides of the cabinet. They would not list the part because it is not replaceable in that case. Not positive… but thats my guess 🙂
That’s a tough one… Take a look at the troubleshooting refrigerator problems pages on my website. (There is a link in the description of this article.) First check if the compressor is running.If it is you need to see if there is an ice buildup that may be blocking airflow, you may also have a problem with an internal fan that is not moving the air. What is your Samsung model#?
Hard to say… It sounds like the board has a problem because of the blank display. But the other frost and cooling problems could be due to a secondary problem. I would start with the board and hope for the best. you can check the thermostat and defrost heater for resistance and eliminate them as additional problems. the damper door that allows air to flow from the freezer to the fresh food would be difficult to check with a bad board…
Hello dear, There is some problem with my fridge which is not cooling at all, it happened just after a month of no use while it was plugged in and turned off from the thermostat switch (although before that one month break, it was working totally fine). When turned on, the compressor starts its normal sound, and water dripping sound through the radiator can be heard from the interior of the fridge and freezer (as in normal refrigerator start up). I searched online for several testing techniques, almost all are the same. There are three probes in the compressor: C, M and S (where C is the top one and M,S are side ways). The resistance check between C-M=40.56, C-S=44.34, and M-S=84.9 ohms. So theoretically, it looks alright, as M-S = (C-S) + (C-M). But the ohm reading examples on the internet are 4, 6 and 10 ohms. May be different types of compressors have different resistant readings. However, the continuity check is a bit ambiguous. The continuity between C-M and C-S is alright, but between M-S is no buzzer sound, however the multimeter displays some ohms reading for it. So i am confused about this test. The relay is a SSR type so cannot be checked. And I am doubtful about that relay because both on it probe and the connecting wire, there is some electrical burning indent. But the continuity between two probes of this relay is ok, so it’s pretty confusing. The thermostat is a large advanced type, so I am not sure how to check that. Please reply me ASAP because m in a heck. or PM at mowaisshahid@gmail.
Hello all, I just moved from Texas to Colorado and my side by side fridge sat in storage for 3 1/2 months. We hooked it up and let it run for 4 hours and the fridge side it not cool and the freezer is soso cold. I don’t feel any air blowing around but the back wall on the inside of the the freezer is cold. The compressor is vibrating and hot as ****. The fan is also working. How long should I let it run before I get concerned? Thanks. Love the vid.
I would not be able to cover all of the possibilities in the comment box. I would suggest looking at the refrigerator troubleshooting section on my website. There is a link in the comments section of this article. You need to determine if the compressor is running or not. If it is running and not cooling in the freezer that’s bad. If its not running it could be a number of control parts that are not allowing the compressor to get the power it needs to run. Take a look at the article. Good Luck!
Don’t put in a supco 3 and 1 hard start unless you don’t care about your fridge. I’ve read a lot and researched them and have heard good and bad about them. I put one in my GE profile french door fridge until I could try and get the factory parts and it blew the compressor and because it was shorted popped the breaker in my electrical panel. I made sure everything was wired correctly originally with the common the start and the run wires to the correct pins on the compressor. Ive heard most repair guys keep these in their truck to temporarily keep your fridge on line and when they come back they swap it for the new parts. This is my take on it so you can take a chance but it really is a gamble. I will never buy another GE product especially the customer service I did not get when they changed the parts I needed to a relay and over load that were two seperate parts with no place to plug in my existing capacitor. My fridge had the relay and overload in the same plastic box. No upgraded wiring diagrams etc. from GE and all GE wanted to do was send a repair man out to tell me something I already knew. Frustrating to say the least!
Heater replaced, check! defrost thermostat replaced, Check! Defrost timer replaced, check! Heater comes on and melts (some)frost, check! But frost continues to build up at the bottom of my 1994 GE Profile side by side eventually causing temperatures to rise, and forcing me to open it up and blow it with two hair dryers while I put all the food in a cooler. Refrigerator resumes perfect cooling (below zero) for a week or two, then deteriorates. Question. since the frost only builds up on the bottom quarter of the evaporator, should I clip the thermostat down by where the frost is? What would you do? Note: This evaporator has two heaters, the bottom one is the only one that doesn’t keep up with the frost. fan in freeezer blows good too.
@applianceassistant thanks, so far so good, but the refrigirater isnt as cold as it use to be, my milk use to freese on a normal setting,, I dont have any thing in freezer, the owners manual said that frozen items will make freezer colder, I guess it takes a few days to get refrigirter super cold since I thawed it out the fan sounds better and compresser dosent stay on as long,
I found an easy way to diagnose for a bad timer. Unplug the fridge and remove the back panel in the freezer. Use a screwdriver to turn the timer until it clicks and now in defrost mode. Assuming the coils are covered in ice and frost, at this point plug in the fridge. Give it a minute or two, touch the heater element to see if it is getting warm.( be careful because it will get red hot) the ice will melt pretty quick. You know the heater element and thermostat are good and the timer is bad.
hey love your article. i have a question about my refrigerator. its a side by side refrigerator and my fresh food side will not get cold. freezer is really cold and i noticed it has frost on the inside wall. fan on the inside freezer works fine that circulates air to the fresh food section but it just get cold for some reason. any tips on how i could fix it myself. Thanks.
True but the thermostat opens and closes by sensing the temperature. If the thermostat is not frozen and open the heater will not be energized even if the timer is energizing the defrost circuit… Also when the defrost heater has done it’s job and the thermostat thaws out and opens the defrost cycle stops, regardless of if the timer is still active or not.
Question: My refigerator is near 10 years of age. And though I’ve found a solution for the water which is from the defrosting, kept freezing, thus caused water to leak into lower level of my refrigerator by wrapping a piece of solid copper around the defrost pipe and inserting one end into the outlet aka drain hole. I have cause to wonder why after all these year’s, I have to do that. It use to work as designed, but only recently has it developed the issue. My remedy seem’s to be working, it’s been over a month, and no water in the refrigerator. Thus I saving money to replace it. But until then. I am sill wondering as to why. The defrost is obviously still working, apparntly it just not working up to it full design.
@ddogz03 Probably not related issues.. The leak into the fresh food area could be caused by the tube that fell and you reconnected, but the cooling issue is probably something else. Is the compressor running? take a look at the “troubleshooting refrigerator problems” page on my web site and see if that makes any light bulbs pop above your head. (There is a link in the article description, then navigate to “repair” and down to refrigerators…) If you have any other questions email me.
@suztexas Possibly.. It is probably the overload/start relay that is plugged onto the three side pins of the compressor. There is some information for testing the relay on my website. (link in the description of this article.) I can’t post a working link in the comments on youtube 🙁 relay help is at the bottom of the Troubleshooting Refrigerator Problems page. Email me through the site if you have questions so I can write a more detailed response. Hope that helps!
@ChristTheBaptiste I don’t know if you have adjusted the controls yet but if you do and that helps you may have a weak thermostat. The other thing that you will want to look at is the coils under the refrigerator. It’s common for a large amount of dust to collect and keep the unit from cooling well. You can clean them with a vacuum and a condenser brush, or even a heavy duster. Also is the freezer fan working? If you email any questions through ApplianceAssistant . com I can write more.
The thermostat should be closed anytime the refrigerator is warm as long as it is in the “ON” position. If it is showing continuity then it should be allowing electricity to flow to the compressor, so I don’t think that is your problem. Take a look at the refrigerator troubleshooting guide I posted on my website that may help. There are just a lot of variations that I could not possibly cover in the comment section of Youtube. The site link is in the article description. I hope that helps!
Great article…. very informative Thanks. I have the same fridge and it works fine for about 4 days then I see frost in the back of the freezer wall. At this point the freezer and the fridge warm up. After unplugging it overnight and the frost thaws out it works great again for another 4 days. Is my thermostat broken ? What part do I need to replace. Please help. Thanks
If they get very iced up or the evaporator fan in the freezer is not working you will start to have freezer temp problems due to poor airflow… you need to allow the evaporator to thaw out and then if your evap. fan is working check your defrost heater part#WR51X10055 and defrost thermostat part#WR50X10068 if they are okay then it is likely the main board in the back part#WR55X10552 the heater and the board are both common to fail : ( I have testing help on my website if you need it. Good Luck!
I have a fridge similer to one on this vid, and one day my son turned it all the way up, and frost appeared in freezer a few days later I took panel out freezer and it was a block of ice everywhere so I blowed all ice away with blowdryer and can hear water dripping in pan, I wonder did it just need thawing out from being turned up too high or do I have a failure somewher?
Ok. I have fixed this fridge/freezer once befor because it would no longer cool. We bought a new one right away since the old one was old. I had replaced the timer. Well now what it does, it frosts up and the fridge is warm/hot. It did that once and then started working a few weeks later. Now it is back to the same thing freezer back frosted and the fridge warm/hot. What should I look for now? Thanks in advance!
@arthouselandscape818 Sorry for the delay, its been a busy few days. You will need to do some voltage checking at the compressor to determine if the compressor is getting the electricity it needs or if the compressor is locked up or shorted internally. There is a lot more free troubleshooting help on my website. There is a link in the description of the article. once on the site search for “TROUBLESHOOTING COMMON REFRIGERATOR PROBLEMS” I hope that helps some!
Hi, I still have the same same problem. Since then i have bought a new refrigerator (w/ mec. timer), but i do miss the AMANA which has worked perfect for 5 years now. I received a recent reply from applianceassistant a few days ago & they mentioned that it could be a power supply problem, but i really haven’t had time to check into it. Either that or some say that one or both of the NEW factory boards (MAIN & ADC) could be defective. Sure wish i had the right answer to help you out but i don’t.
i have a 2010 Frigidaire side by side all fans working compressor on not getting cold the line by the evap coil gets a little cold but nothing no ice build up there is also a button in the fridge that stays fridge/freezer then i hold it in for a sec every thing shuts off no fans compresser ect is that for the heater
I work maintenance and a residents freezer is just literally giving no heat, usually when I replace a T-stat its due to over frost and the part is visibly broken (busted open). The timer is working, and so is the fan which would not be the problem anyway. Could it still be the T-stat? or do I have a junk element here?
Husband randomly blew out the coils and fan in the back of the refrigerator with a compressor – next morning the refrigerator was warm! – I took off the back inside the freezer and found it was iced over – I replaced the heater and it defrosted as it should again! However, the refrigerator is still not getting cold enough – I am at a loss now since I know the heater was bad and has been replaced, what else it may be now!
I been fighting this problem with my Whirlpool top and bottom fridge . The problem I’m having is that i’m getting a sheet of ice in the bottom of the freezer. within a week of opening the drain again. I have replaced the the bimetal defrost thermastat. Every time I have taken the back panel off I have never seen frost build up at all. So where is all this water coming from that freezes up in freezer. My fridge stays really nice and cold and freezer is nice and cold. No frost build up at all on back wall. But is always the tray and tube is frozen solid and frozen water on bottom of freezer. Doesn’t make since to me. Doors are super hard to open like the suction is very hard. It whistles when closing the freezer top door after closing. Please help me. I been fighting this for a year now. I have taken this thing apart 5 times and melt the ice and clear the tube and it comes back about weeks time.
started out with ice dam on freezer floor, coils not iced….heater element checked good….manually defrosted…..replaced thermostat….problem not solved….replaced thermostat timer (wire to #2) now, no ice dams, but coils frozen and frost on freezer back wall??? also, whats that black bag attached to one side of evaporator?
Whirlpool fridge isn’t cooling as much . Thermometer says it gets to 50 degrees even though I’ve set the setting pretty cold . Milk and other things spoil in less time . No ice in freezer or fridge walls . Freezer is great 0 degrees . And water has been collecting at bottom of fridge and I’ve been taking it out every few days once a week maybe . Collects about half a liter in about a week . I’ve cleaned the bottom coils found at the outside bottom of fridge with rags and shop vac . Still no change . Freezer fan seems to be working I can feel air moving . No ice or frost on damper . Seems it’s a defrost problem with no ice or frost anywhere ?
my refrigator stays cold but freezes up outside where the thermostat is we took it all apart defrosted everything as it was blocked with ice put it all back together and had no problems for 2 weeks now today it’s frosting again outside the freezer like it did before .I turned thermostat down on min and it’s still freezing .is it a thermostat problem or something else ?btw water runs down in the fridge as wellwe used to keep a towel in their to soak up all the water.
I have a Frigidaire model ffht1826lw, my freezer keeps getting ice build up & my fridge is getting water inside. It’s not staying cold in the fridge. I unplugged it for 12 hours & plugged it back in. It was running fine but now it’s sweating inside & my ice cream is not getting hard. Idk if this is because my children kept going in & out. What is wrong & how do I fix it.
I have the same Frigidaire GLRS234ZAB5 side by side refrigerator with the same issue. I am desperately trying to locate the timer with no luck. Are you saying this models timer is different from the others..i.e electric circuit board? If so…where is it. I’ve looked on the back near the compressor, on the front left under the freezer compartment and up top. HELP someone!!!
Hi AA i really need your help. I have a Kenmore side-by-side w/ water & ice. So there’s the problem. On the freezer side only the bottom half is frozen everything else has thawed. Plus the frige is slightly cool but, not cold.I first realized it last night so i did turn down the temp. can you please help me. thanks
I am not getting “any build up” on the freezer coils, but a build up only around the bi-metal thermostat (I have thawed it out twice). I did accidently leave the door open one night about 1/4 of an inch (the light didn’t even come on). I closed it and about three weeks later I started having problems with it freezing. The freezer sets itself at 20 degrees and the fridge at 40 degrees and has remained so for the last couple weeks (The dial is still at the original “Normal” setting). I can’t find a timer reset hole, so suspect I have a circuit board. Both the compressor and freezer fans work fine, and the compressor works without excess noise. I took the compressor gage off and it doesn’t rattle. As soon as a family member comes along that has a elec. gage, I will have them check the continuity in the freezer area, but that could be an hour to a couple days. At this point I suspect it is in need of more refrigerant. What do you think. Thank you for your help and attention to this dilemma. Love your articles, sent them on to others.
hi,hoping you can help,my under counter fridge is icing up at the back (inside) but the fridge is too warm, almost 50F! the thermo is on it’s coldest setting,i have hoovered the coils,the fan under the fridge stays on all the time,the ice block has started to shrink over the past few days! time for a new one?
HAHA thank you for the description! I could almost hear it… It “sounds” like the compressor is probably getting a little tired… Unfortunately there is really no way to tune up this motor. They can work that way for quite a while but eventually it will probably just give up. You may want to say your goodbyes now. Sorry : ( I hope your next refrigerator serves you as well!
Amana ABD2233DES bottom freezer Christmas I noticed freezer was working great but fridge was warm. In freezer that there was frost, so I defrosted the unit, and it worked great again now few weeks and I defrosted the unit this weekend. I have researched a bit and think it is either thermostat, heater or main control board ???? What should my readings be using the multimeter if all is ok with the heater and thermostat, is there a way to test control board? Is there one more prone to issues?
QUESTION: I have a Maytag MSD2651HEW. The lights, fan inside the freezer and next to compressor are working but it isn’t cooling at all. I’ve checked for build up of frost but there isn’t any. I unplugged it for few minutes and then plugged it in couple of times, freezer fan, compressor and a fan next to it sound normal but still isn’t cooling. Any thoughts?
Thanks so much for your article’s!!….after perusal several I was confident in taking on the project. Your step by step trouble shooting really gave me the confidence and expertise to properly repair my fridge and I know I saved allot of money because I didn’t have to call the repair guy…..again Thanks so much, I’ll be back:)
blockage and in the process the hose coming from the back of the unit (to the freezer I’m guessing) came off and I had to finagle it back on but now and again it would leak. then the freezer stopped being as cold as it had and then the fridge followed. i can’t help but think the hose coming from the freezer and going down to what I believe is a drip pan is the problem but I don’t know for sure…..argggghhhhh
This article helped us get our side by side fridge working when it stopped cooling. The freezer door had been left ajar (more than once). To make things worse the air conditioning broke and the room temperature was in the mid to high 80’s. We removed the crispers and found the vent going from the bottom of the fridge to the coils on the freezer side was clogged with ice. Used a blow dryer to melt the ice and it started working again.
hi need help!freezer working fine,but fridge not cooling,i opened the rear panel in freezer compartment,fan not working,tested it,burnt out,bought new one but not powering up,tested the connections where the evap fan plugs in with multi-meter theres no power,so new evap fan not working,pls let me know wot it can be!
@HackettMomma You should definitely try manually defrosting the unit first. You may have a mechanical defrost problem but it’s always a good idea to try the manual defrost first. Especially on a weekend like Thanksgiving when the doors are likely to be left open on accident. Also warm food in the appliance creates steam = frost = cooling problems. Good luck! If that doesn’t do it email me through my website and we can figure it out. Thanks for the comment!
@gaptoothed1 All you can really do with no tools is unplug it, open the doors and pray. But If refrigerator temperatures have been an ongoing minor issue you may want to take a close look at where the cold air enters the fresh food area. You may want to double check that model number, I don’t think you have a door in the air passage…It is probably being blocked by ether frost or food. The main tool you would need is a 1/4″ nut driver you could probably find at the dollar store. Good Luck!
This is a great educational article! Actually, I am perusal and hoping this article would help me to understand the “refrigerator”. My “Kenmore” refrigerator’s motor/engine is working fine, but cold air wasn’t running…less than few hours later, cold air is “running” properly. Is that what you called “automatic defrost cycle”? And should I stay alert next time this happens? (Who knows “when” this happens)
@ 4:25 This was all I needed to do, but I also took the back panel off inside the freezer compartment and chipped away the ice build up @ 2:20 that was blocking the cold air from going into to the fridge compartment. I’m not sure what caused all that ice build up, it might have been from setting the freezer compartment too cold over the last 5 years or one of doors might have been left slightly open overnight. I’m not sure about the thermostat and/or defrost heater being broken or not, it’s not really a big deal for me as long as cold air is still be blown into the fridge compartment, if the ducts ice up again I will just manually remove the ice build up. MANY THANKS, GREAT article!
@thegannclan Hopefully just cleaning the condenser coils really well will fix your problem. You will also want to check the fan the pulls air across the coils and compressor is working and not jammed up. That is the other very common thing that happens with refrigerators…air flow problems when it comes to the dissipation of heat from the condenser coils under the refrigerator, dust can effect how well the freezer cools. If the coils are clean and its still not cooling well… Not so good.
Sorry for the delay! If there is frost on the back wall of the freezer section it is likely a defrost problem… If not I would check to see if the fan in the freezer is working and the little automatic door that opens and lets air into the fresh food section is not broken in the closed position. You can get to that by removing the control housing in the back section of the fresh food area. If the fan in the freezer is working you should feel air through those back vents. I hope that helps some!
Cool article, no pun intended. I have a Hotpoint fridge freezer that is 28 months old and the same situation, freezer working but the fridge is not. Before I call an engineer out I am going to switch it off for a few hours in the hope the issues is ice-build build and might work again. You do not get what you pay for today, £800 on two new fridges in 5 years that replaced a 20 plus-year-old one that still worked, but was not big enough for my needs. I dare not take mine apart yet, guaranteed if I do and I then need to call out an engineer they will say you have voided the 10 year parts warranty
Ii have a jenn air side by side model JSD2690HEB and when I got up this morning and noticed that my food in the freezer was defrosting and my food in the refrig part was warm so I came to you tube to see what the problem could be. after cleaning all the food from the freezer I made sure the door was closed. waited an hour but it still was not getting cold but I do hear the fan running. so I unplugged my side by side for about 5 minutes and replugged it to see if I would hear the compressor kick in but I didn’t. So do you thnk its the relay or the compressor that I need.
The bimetal terminates defrost and tells adaptive defrost how long it took to heat up so it can calculate thru AI how often it should defrost next time. If it took 10 mins to heat up there was alot of ice, so next time defrost sooner, if it took 3 mins to heat up there wasn’t much ice so lengthen defrost interval. Mine goes every 65-70 hrs. Also after defrost when compressor starts it important for recirc fan to be off for 5 mins or so, to capture heat and refreeze remaining water onto coil and not back into entire fridge.
It is 2021 now. My Fridgitair fridge is turning the light off for longer times. I unplug it then it works again for a while. Fridge is about 4 years old. I blew a way the dust in the back and it works on and off. How long should I defrost it (unplug it) for? Am I blocking the went in the freezer with food? Thank You, Michael.
I have a question: I have an older Whirlpool Gold fridge with a freezer on top. The ice maker quiet working so I took it out and disconnected the water line and closed it up with a plan to just use ice cube trays. Well after about a month the walls of the freezer started forming bumps on them. Some really small and others about the size of a ping pong cut in half??? Do you know what this is and what causes it. Totally at a loss on this one….thank you
Hi, My 24 inch Refrigerator model: mpe12fgkalww is always getting blocked by ice at the passage from freezer to bottom. I melt an ice away and is good for a while. It has this led to adjust temp.I don’t think this fridge has auto defrost as I did not see the heather. Why would be always blocking passage, the freezer is cold well. Thanks for and answer if you will get to read it,
Hi very good article clips,, thumps up.. If a fridge is old and no parts available example … defrost thermostats, freezer thermostats, I supose we can fix a comparable parts .. To your advice what.s the heater celiues degree and what,s the freezer like wise .. hope you can provide a good info to us.. thanks
Sorry but the evaporator thermostat does not determine when defrost is needed. It can tell how much time it takes to defrost the coil with adaptive defrost. But it opens when the evap coil gets to about 50 degrees stopping heater and closes about 20 to energise defrost coil. Coil always heats up because freezer is below 20F, it’s how fast it gets to 50 with adaptive that either adds more compressor runtime or subtracts so that it finds a sweet spot as to how often to defrost. If doors are never opened it will defrost anyway after so many hours of compressor runtime. This of course applies to adaptive defrost as opposed to defrosting every 12 hrs. no matter. You still have defrost thermostat but do not learn as to how often to defrost from the time it takes to melt ice.
Is anything in this article true for typical European refrigerators as build in the 90s, the AEG/Electrolux kind? Tall, two separate compartments (freezer and fridge) with no connection between them, no fan, giant radiator in the back, no PCBs. I think it has auto defrost but i can’t find a timer mechanical or otherwise. There is no freezer defrosting foreseen. The fridge chamber does seem to self defrost once in a while, there is a thin layer of ice forming on the back, it melts occasionally and runs off onto a dish in the bottom right on top of the compressor. I think the warmth of the compressor helps it evaporate then, but i haven’t found the heater yet.