This article provides step-by-step instructions for mounting self-aligning ball bearings, spherical roller bearings, and CARB®. It also covers the disassembly of a deep groove ball bearing and how to remove it. The author emphasizes that improper handling, removal, and installation of bearings can damage or cause them to fail early.
The internal clearance in a bearing is the amount of internal free movement before mounting. When either the inner ring or outer ring is fixed and the other ring is removed, the internal clearance is reduced. Proper installation of bearing components includes installing bearing cones (inner races) on shafts (spindles), and using a ball bearing puller or extractor to gently and evenly apply force to the bearing.
When installing a tight fit in a housing, apply pressure against the outer ring. Three different guides for installing ball bearings are provided. The mounting and dismounting section has been expanded to include individual step-by-step instructions for mounting self-aligning ball bearings, spherical roller bearings, and CARB®.
To properly install a bearing, use a ball bearing puller or extractor, a 4.5″ right angle grinder, and be careful to remove lapping agents, casting sands, and chips from the housing. After locking the inner races to the axle, let it cure thoroughly, and then apply epoxy or Loctite to the OD of the bearings. These steps are crucial for ensuring the proper functioning and longevity of a machine.
📹 How To – Fix Ball Bearing Strips on Drawer Slider
I recently received a piece of furniture that was damaged in transit, and all the interior drawers were misaligned, so the drawers …
📹 Trick For Installing Bearings Onto A Shaft or Housing
I Use an old cooking Wok with Hy-Tran to heat bearings to 275 degrees F. Pick them out with pliers and drop them into place …
This was really helpful even though my sliders were a very different style. Conceptually confirmed what I thought and gave me the confidence to make a fix on my kitchen trash can drawer. Just to get a second opinion I was reading through a Reddit thread, and it coincidentally had a link to this article 🙂 Thanks!
Thanks for the article. I figured I needed to bend the tab to slide the plastic slider and bearings in, pushing them down marked the rails — so obviously not how it was put together originally. In my case, I needed to place the plastic slider and bearings on the inside of the outer bracket in order to push the inner bracket through since the bearings would fall off of the plastic sliders if placed on the outside. The holes on the slider were too big to hold the bearings in place.
Conspiracy theory – I think the reason the roller strips can’t be found online for replacement (at least I haven’t had any luck) is because the companies that make the drawer slides have bought out any license or vendor trying to sell them and then made them unavailable so you have to replace the whole thing. 🙁
Both of the ones on our garbage drawer are out and I don’t understand why. Are they just crap slides? They’re only a few months old. Stupid thing is that now that I know what to do I have to wait until my husband goes to work to try it because for some reason he just won’t look things up and would rather deal with it than try to fix it after his first frustrated attempt. Ideally I fix it and never mention it.
They slide I am trying to fix does not have the ball bearings encapsulated in that little thin black strip of plastic, they are just loose and they have come unwedged from the slider frame. I’ve been trying to force them in with the head of a standard screwdriver but they just keep flying everywhere when I get uneven pressure. Suggestion?
We had a handyman take my salon drawer out of the cabinet which is bulky and heavy but don’t think he knew that there were tabs in the front. He may have forced it out. He put the drawer back in but we can no longer close it all the way and it is hard to push. He said to grease the tracks. I think he damaged it. Any suggestions? If I call someone to repair it, who does this kind of work?
Thank goodness for this article! I not only have these (ball bearing) drawer slides on my kitchen drawers, they are also in my tool box chest drawers. Struggled to fix my tool box drawers last year. Nearly went into panic mode, but figured it out a year ago. My kitchen drawer glide just fell apart, and completely forgot how it all worked. Thank YOU !
I have an old Convection Toaster Oven that I paid $5.00 for at a Goodwill Thrift Store about 30 years ago and that is all it has been used for since I bought it. Sure beat paying $600.00 at the time for an Inductive Bearing Heater to do the same job. I have had a few helpers over the years who have placed their meals in it and then complained that their food had an odd taste to it though, LOL
I have done that back in the 70s to fit bearings on the shaft of trains. We had a 500 litters metal barrel about 2 meters diameter. Fill with oil, heat it up, fit the bearing in the box and drop the whole thing in the oil. Wait to expand, get a crane to lift the box and insert it into the shaft. Your article made me go back 50 years ago, thanks for sharing.
Just sharing some knowledge that may save you a headache. 250 is rule of thumb. ask skf koyo ntn they all say 250 max except high heat ceramic specialties especially on roller bearings. So may want to go down a bit i go 240 and have had to just barely tap on inner once or twice barely with tightest clearance schedule. Big pumps big motors
Just did something similar last week with a press on reluctor. Heated that bad boy with a propane torch and it dropped right on just like the article. I like the idea of the oil method for a bearing though. Any reason why not just use a press here? May have been faster than waiting for the oil to heat up.