Is Sill Seal Used On Inside Walls?

The sill plate gasket is a crucial component in slab construction, serving to keep undesirable elements out and desirable elements in. It transitions between the foundation and wood framing of walls, acting as a barrier against termites and other critters. Pressure-treated lumber (PT) is often used for interior walls, but it is generally optional unless local building codes require it.

The light blue sill sealer installed between the bottom plate and concrete is likely for air sealing. In some states, the bottom plate is required to have the foam seal and treated lumber for external load-bearing walls only. However, internal foam can be used internally without being treated.

Sill sealers are essential for protecting homes from water damage to the framing inside the house. Walls flex with weather, allowing outside air, dust, and temperature changes into the walls and possibly into the interior. The give of EPDM flexes with changes in temperature, making it important to consider the use of sill sealers on interior walls.

The best way to air seal the sill plate is to place a sill sealer (also called a sill gasket) on the concrete before laying the sill plate over the foundation. A sill seal product that covers the whole sill plate area is preferable. It is always a good idea to have a capillary break between any wood and any masonry.

In slab construction, sill sealers should always be used when non-PT lumber contacts concrete, even with PT. Using just a sill seal on an interior wall bottom plate over a slab serves no useful purpose, as you need to stop moisture, not air. Even on interior partition bottom plates going down on a concrete slab, sill sealer should be used as a capillary break.


📹 What is Sill Sealer & Why You ABSOLUTELY NEED to Use It Framing a House (Includes PROOF!)

An introduction into sill sealer–what it is, why it is important on your house. #1. Protect your home from hard to find water damage …


Is sill sealer waterproof?

The Self-Adhesive Air and Moisture Sill Barrier Premium Energy Sill Sealer is a unique design that combines a 3/8″ closed cell polyethylene foam with an aggressive self-adhesive waterproofing membrane. This sealer conforms and seals off the voids and irregularities between the top of the foundation and sill plate, virtually eliminating air, moisture, and insect/rodent infiltration. The adhesive bottom conforms and seals to the uneven top of the foundation wall, helping to lower energy costs by stopping heating and air conditioning loss at the foundation to sill plate interface.

It also helps eliminate costly call backs for builders due to leaks. The sealer provides 1 1/2 times more protection from energy loss than standard 1/4″ sill sealers used by builders today. It is self-adhesive for easy and precise placement, mildew and water resistant, and can be used on residential and commercial construction, slab on grade, crawl spaces, or basements. It is extremely resilient and will not rot or deteriorate with age.

The application can be done with just a utility knife, and it virtually eliminates air, moisture, and insect/rodent infiltration beneath the sill plate, saving homeowners thousands of dollars in energy costs over the life of the home.

What do you put behind drywall?

Exterior walls typically have insulation like fiberglass, cellulose, mineral wool, or foam, while interior walls may have insulation as a soundproofing device. Headers, horizontal members across doors, windows, and entryways, support weight by supporting vertical studs. Wider headers provide more air and light, while sturdy headers between kitchen and living rooms can help tie rooms together. Older homes may not have insulation behind drywall.

Do you need sill gasket on interior walls?

The utilization of a particular material on interior walls in slab construction is typically discretionary, unless mandated by local building codes. In such instances, it may be advantageous to seek guidance from the relevant authority having jurisdiction (AHJ) at the local level.

Where to use sill seal?

Sill seal is a gasket used between the sill plate and foundation wall, providing resilient sealing in new and retrofit construction. It is installed below floor joists and held in place using anchor bolts. It fills the gap between the sill plate and foundation wall, creating a tight, uniform fit and eliminating heat loss from air infiltration. Made of polyethylene foam, it is durable and moisture-resistant, making it suitable for both new construction and retrofit applications. Sill seal is a durable and moisture-resistant option for both new construction and retrofit applications.

What is a sill seal behind drywall?

A Sill Seal Gasket is a common strategy used by high volume builders for secure air sealing between wallboard and top plate. It is secured with staples and is ideal for 3rd party verification. The gasket’s low cost and availability make it desirable for many builders. HERS raters can verify the installation’s completeness and quality. However, the quality of the installation is crucial. The material should be stiff and neat to prevent drywall installers from removing it. Avoid excessive overlapping, rounded corners, or loose material that may obstruct the drywall during installation.

Where should gasket sealer be used?

Gasket sealer is a common tool used in outdoor situations to seal water- or weather-proof gaskets. It fills holes and imperfections on flange surfaces, preventing heat, water, air, and other contaminants from entering or escaping machinery. It is commonly used in composite machine parts or connections between pipe lengths to prevent gas or fluid leaks. Gasket sealant also strengthens assembly or joins due to its adhesion to flange surfaces.

What is the difference between a sill plate and a sill sealer?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

What is the difference between a sill plate and a sill sealer?

A sill plate is a crucial component of a home’s structure, used to secure the connection between the structure and the foundation. In older homes, the sill plate was bolted directly to the foundation, but today, a sill sealer or gasket is typically placed between the sill plate and the foundation to prevent air leaks and water infiltration. A metal barrier may be placed beneath the sill plate in areas plagued by termites to prevent insects from accessing the wood above the foundation wall.

The installation process involves placing heavy-duty steel anchor bolts, known as J-bolts, into the wet concrete at the top of the foundation walls. These bolts are designed with a curved bend at the bottom, securing them firmly as it hardens. After the foundation settles, framing carpenters align the wood sill plates over these bolts, drilling through them to ensure the wood sits perfectly flat against the concrete. The sill sealer or gasket is then placed on the concrete, and the plates are fastened securely to the foundation using large washers and nuts.

Not all homes have sill plates, as they are commonly used in homes with basements or crawl spaces with distinct foundation walls. Homes built on slab-on-grade foundations may not have a traditional sill plate, as the bottom plate takes its place.

Is sill seal waterproof?

This product exhibits excellent resistance to water and water vapor and is available in a variety of applications, including adhesives, rigid insulation, spray polyurethane foam, weatherization, and is suitable for commercial, residential, and multifamily use. To obtain further information, please refer to the Product Finder or visit the Resource Center.

When to use a sill gasket?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

When to use a sill gasket?

Regular roll foam sill seal is a cost-effective and user-friendly solution that provides a capillary break between cementous foundation materials and wood wall framing, offering some insect sealing benefits. It is recommended to use sill seal on all walls, not just the exterior, as it may cause gaps between wall framing cap plates and truss bottom chords. The foam does not compress significantly, but it may not be compatible with the bottom plate glue process.

An alternative is to apply caulk to the subfloor/wall intersection before sheetrock. Expanding foam is considered the best seal, and pressure-treated wood should be used for sill plates on concrete. It is important to note that installing foam under interior walls may not be compatible with the bottom plate glue process. Expanding foam is a recommended alternative, and pressure-treated wood is recommended for sill plates on concrete.

Do I need a moisture barrier behind drywall?

Moisture barriers are essential in basements, crawlspaces, and high-moisture areas like kitchens and bathrooms to prevent moisture damage and protect structural integrity. They are often used interchangeably with vapor barriers, but they differ in their effectiveness. Moisture barriers are better at preventing liquids, while vapor barriers are better at preventing gaseous water. Both types of barriers are designed to keep moisture out of a home, but the choice depends on the specific needs and conditions of the area.

When would you not use a sill support bar?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

When would you not use a sill support bar?

Installing a window under 600mm wide does not require a support bar, but Kiwis are increasingly installing double-glazed window units to address cold and condensation complaints and comply with H1. This has led to heavier units and slower installation methods. Unsupported aluminium windows may not appear immediately, but over time, they can create structural issues and create new leakage points, causing further problems.


📹 FRAMING TIP – Super Sill Sealer

In todays video Matt talks about air-sealing in the framing stage at this LSL framed home and why its important to start so early.


Is Sill Seal Used On Inside Walls?
(Image Source: Pixabay.com)

Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

Email: [email protected], [email protected]

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11 comments

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  • It would be very helpful if you put links to the manufacturer’s websites in your description. For people like me who live in places like rural Newfoundland –where access to any type of new or innovative home building material is basically impossible, as no one stocks it– it would be great to be able to find an online vendor to order from.

  • Hi Matt, First of all, love perusal all your articles here in NJ! Thank you for educating us who have no background in this. We are building/remodeling our single family home and just realized that my contractor hasn’t used either the pink or the black sill sealer!!! We are framed completely and the second floor as well(colonial style) Is this a big deal/mistake? I hope we can live another 15 yrs atleast in this house. My kids still in elementary school.

  • Fixings the original sill board on my 1914 house the sill is damaged about 8 inches in the corner it’s old growth Douglas Fir 100 years and the rest is solid they shimed it with cedar and the shims are perfect new materials just can’t compare the piece I replace will have to be replaced before the rest even tho I’m putting in treated with gaskets

  • Hey Matt Risinger I want to use this Prosoco sealer at a project in North Central Arkansas. Having trouble locating where to buy it from……the area distributors are not familiar with it and I cannot buy from Amazon or Prosoco. Any advice appreciated. Thanks for all you do to educate all us developers!

  • I would love to see a blower door test of a small house (dog house) using all of these method to show the difference between them. I know it would be about 12 different dog houses, foam and rubber, outside tape and fluid, then the inside with tape, liquid and caulk. Using same construction methods just changing the air seal method. Then after the article, you could modify them for dog houses, vents and such and donate them to a shelter or even auction them and give proceeds to the shelter, the old two birds one stone. I love this website because you not only show the methods, but the results of those methods. I remember the pex fittings test where SharkBite failed like I expected and the pipes failed way about city water pressure. I could tell that article took so much longer than you expected it too (it was dark for the finale) but you persisted and finished it instead of coming back the next day or quitting. Thank you

  • Do you know if the flat side of the gasket is supposed to go up (against the 2×6) or down (against the concrete)? Conservation Technology’s website says to place it down, but it looks like yours is up against the 2×6. Any particular reason or perhaps it’s really reversible and either way works? Have an upcoming build and trying to get the details just right.

  • I am getting a metal garage installed on my concrete slab and was needing to know would this work from a metal sill as well? What is also good for the out side part to put in place to keep water from getting in the bottom part of the sills? Metal and some kind of good tape or special caulking? Thanks in advance.

  • Stupid question time, I I am closing in a pole barn, is it ok to have the 2×6 sill plate stick out 1″ from the edge of the slab, this is because the Header that that was placed between the posts sits out ~1″ from the bottom edge of my concrete slab??? Thanks Matt I really like the information you provide in your articles.

  • I need a question answered in a very quick timeframe. We have been having a large garage built and it is attached to our existing one car carport, which is also getting closed in with a garage door and a short wall. The footer was poured and the blocks were laid. The sill plate was bolted down. The walls were built, and now it has been two weeks with only the walls standing exposed to the elements and the pressure treated sill plates have started to lift off the blocks due to cupping even though the growth rings are all facing down ! Do these all need to be replaced before the garage roof is put on? We have an 8 inch block wall with brick on the outside to match the house, with 2×12 bolted down sill plates. The 2×6 timber for the roof rafters and the 36 foot LVL Beam is out in my yard covered with a tarp, ready to be installed Tuesday, which is today. That’s why I need to know ASAP.

  • My 1882 house 0 mold. 3 years ago I did open all the walls and spray foamed most of it and roxul insulation as well. House 1950 and on I see lots of problems and 2000s because of the plastic BS people were installing over insulation. Think like water and you should be good. Bugs I don’t know if you ever gonna stop that

  • matt have you ever realy built anything like a addition .and i mean with tool belt on sweet blood on your hammer..not sitting in a ac on truck cab eating cookies and lata coffee.with your nice polo on and shinny shoes..bitching the guy are not working fast enuf…so have you and what trade for how long what part of the usa..tool used you perfer to use ..so break it down for us matt tool belt set up boots close hammer

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