Burning treated lumber, such as 2x4s, plywood, and pallets, is a safe and convenient way to dispose of unwanted wood. However, it is important to note that wood used in construction often undergoes treatment processes, which can introduce harmful chemicals or residues. Untreated wood scraps, such as clean wood not generated from construction, remodeling, repair, or demolition of structures or roads, can be burned.
New building construction may no longer include the installation of wood-burning devices, including fireplaces, under EPA certified standards. Garden bonfires are also subject to certain laws about burning certain types of waste and preventing nuisances. Untreated timber scraps are the only safe to burn, as treated timber is full of chemicals to prevent rot and termites.
Pressure treated wood or plywood is fine to burn in theory, but in practice, it may be forbidden in some areas and campgrounds. Waste wood can be burned at a permitted site to produce heat or energy, or under a D7 waste exemption. However, burning of regular lumber should be done as long as it is not pressure treated lumber.
Recent legislation states that it is illegal to collect any waste wood (treated or contaminated timber) and burn it within the confines of a home. A chimney cleaner advises against burning plywood, MDF, OSB, or other manufactured wood products, as well as treated lumber in an indoor fireplace. The disposal of treated lumber by burning has serious health and environmental risks, and it is illegal to burn in all 50 states.
📹 Why You Shouldn’t Make Scrap Ingots – Why Scrap Yards Will Say No To Buying Them
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Can you burn wood that has been treated?
Burn treated or painted wood in your wood-burning stove as it contains chemicals that can harm your health and the environment. These chemicals release toxic fumes, creating a dangerous atmosphere, especially for children, older people, and those with respiratory conditions. Stove damage increases the risk of future problems, higher maintenance costs, and reduced efficiency. Plywood and chipboard, commonly used in construction or furniture, are not suitable for use as fuel in wood-burning stoves.
Can we burn a piece of wood?
Wood has a high ignition temperature, making it difficult for a burning matchstick to ignite. This prevents wood from burning. Free textbook solutions for various subjects include KC Sinha Solutions for Maths, Cengage Solutions for Maths, DC Pandey Solutions for Physics, HC Verma Solutions for Physics, Sunil Batra Solutions for Physics, Pradeep Solutions for Physics, Narendra Awasthi Solutions for Chemistry, MS Chouhan Solutions for Chemistry, and Errorless Solutions for Biology.
Additionally, free NCERT Solutions English Medium are available for various classes, including Class 12 English Medium, Class 11 English Medium, Class 10 English Medium, Class 9 English Medium, Class 8 English Medium, Class 7 English Medium, and Class 6 English Medium.
Is plywood okay to burn?
Wet wood, Christmas trees, painted or treated lumber, colored paper, plywood, particle board, and chipboard are all potential sources of toxic fumes and carcinogens when burned in a wood-burning fireplace. Wet wood, which can contain up to 45 percent water, produces more smoke and less heat, which can cause creosote buildup on the chimney’s inner walls. Christmas trees, which contain high levels of resin, can also cause a chimney fire. Painted or treated lumber can contain toxic chemicals that can corrode the fireplace.
Paper with colored print, such as wrapping paper, magazines, cereal boxes, and pizza boxes, can release noxious, corrosive, or carcinogenic gases when burned. Manufactured wood products release toxic fumes and carcinogens when burned. Fire accelerants or fire starters should not be used to start a fire, as they can cause flare-ups or heat the fire to extremely high temperatures. Plastics, including bubble wrap and plastic cups, release toxic chemicals that are dangerous for health and the environment.
Dryer lint, cardboard, and driftwood should not be burned in a fireplace, as they can release toxic chemicals into the home and up the chimney. The best fuel for a fireplace is the fuel it was built for, such as pellets for pellet stoves and dry, seasoned firewood or manufactured fire logs for wood-burning fireplaces.
Can you burn a piece of wood by?
It is not feasible to ignite wood with a lighted matchstick. However, when wood is heated with a matchstick, it reaches a higher ignition temperature, which prevents it from catching fire from a single matchstick.
Can you burn off cuts of wood?
Off-cuts, leftover wood from timber producers, are popular as firewood for wood burning stoves due to their cost and usefulness. Hardwood briquettes, produced by compressing shredded wood and sawdust, are nearly 100 natural and contain lignin molecules for binding purposes. They have a moisture content of less than 10, reducing issues for flues and chimneys. They burn longer and produce 50 more heat than logs, making them easier to store.
However, few wood burning stove owners use hardwood briquettes due to lack of knowledge. In Europe, most stove owners use them regularly. Bowland Stoves offers Premium Hardwood Briquettes in either 5 packs or by the pallet.
Are 2x4s okay to burn?
Treated wood, plywood, painted scraps, 2x4s, and particle board are not suitable for burning in a fireplace due to their potential release of toxic compounds like arsenic. Accelerants, even used for starting a fire, are difficult to control and can cause damage to the chimney and fireplace. The only fuel source suitable for a home fireplace is well-seasoned firewood, as treated wood and most wood products are unsuitable for this purpose. Additionally, damp or green wood is also unsuitable. Therefore, it is essential to choose wood that is suitable for your fireplace and stove.
Can you burn old treated lumber?
To ensure safe burning, season and dry wood outdoors for at least 6 months before burning, start fires with clean newspaper and dry kindling, and avoid burning garbage, plastic, or pressure treated wood. Have a certified technician inspect and service your appliance annually, and have your chimney cleaned annually to prevent creosote buildup. Properly installed and maintained wood-burning appliances burn more efficiently. If you smell smoke, shut down the appliance and call a certified chimney sweep to inspect the unit.
Is it OK to burn scrap wood?
While wood species can be burned, some are less desirable due to characteristics such as hard splitting or sticky bark. Examples of such wood include plywood, particle board, scrap lumber, and pallets. These wood types cannot be burned if they are not painted or coated.
Is it OK to burn any wood?
Burning various types of woods can be hazardous, including driftwood, green or unseasoned wood, rotten wood, old furniture wood, plywood or MDF, treated wood, toxic trees and shrubs, and wood with vines or ivy. Some woods, such as cherry, elder, horse chestnut, laburnum, oleander, rhododendron, and yew, are not meant for burning and should not be burned.
Birch is a dense hardwood that offers great heat output, long burn times, and extremely hot temperatures. However, many dried birch products come mixed with another hardwood to negate the natural phloem found in the inner layer of its bark. This process helps prevent birch from retaining too much moisture content in the phloem, making it a good choice for outdoor fires.
When choosing a wood to burn, it is essential to research the potential risks associated with each type of wood. Some woods may release toxic chemicals, while others may not be suitable for burning due to their nature. Therefore, it is crucial to choose the right wood for your specific needs and preferences.
Can you burn old hardwood?
Burning old pressure-treated wood is generally not recommended due to its high levels of toxic compounds and the presence of a highly toxic preservative called chromium. This wood is suitable for outdoor fireplaces and backyard fire pits, but it is important to exercise caution when handling it and dispose of it safely and environmentally friendly. Exposure to wood preservatives can cause skin and eye irritation, so it is essential to wear protective clothing, wash clothes, and avoid touching eyes, nose, or mouth while working with the wood.
Inhalation of sawdust containing wood preservatives can also cause respiratory irritation, so adequate ventilation and dust collection systems are essential when cutting or sanding these materials. Burning pressure-treated wood can release toxic gases and chemicals into the air, potentially causing negative impacts on air quality and human health if breathed in or ingested. Therefore, it is advisable to avoid burning pressure-treated wood as much as possible.
Why can’t you burn lumber?
Burning treated lumber, also known as CCA lumber, poses serious health and environmental risks. It’s illegal in all 50 states and contains chemicals like Copper, Chromium, and Arsenic. A single board can contain enough arsenic to kill 250 adults. The fastest way to release these chemicals is by burning, and a single tablespoon of ash from pressure-treated wood is lethal. Treated lumber typically comes in an OD green or dark brown color and has half-inch-long splits on all surfaces. If unsure, don’t burn it.
📹 State Ban on Disposing Treated Wood Hammers Home-Improvement Business
The state of California has banned the disposal of a common building material and it is leaving homeowners and contractors with …
it’s simple if you can melt them you can make up to 6 times more then copper prices but never sell ingots to the biggest rip off people called the scrap yards sell them to collectors who pay good prices been doing it for years i will never sell copper or brass to scrap yard they only get my waste i have no time for. If you cant melt down to ingots for sure take it to the yards.
As a scrapper I understand his point and I agree. HOWEVER, in the past few years I’ve made complete garbage money selling metal for scrap. My suggestion is to melt your metal into ingots and sell it directly to individuals or businesses who need the materials. You’ll make more money than scrap prices and businesses will likely save money. His point is valid however if you do sell it for scrap.
Over the course of my career, I was the technical resources manager for several large foundries. Most of our raw materials were purchased from a small list of validated and approved suppliers only. One of our operations included an aluminum smelting process to pour into sow molds, which were later alloyed in our large reverbs. For the smelt operation, we did purchase from individuals, however, only if they could provide substantial quantity. I recall an instance where a small smelter brought in a few thousand pounds of aluminum pigs (30# ingots) which we ran through the smelter furnace. After melting, we pulled about 100 pieces of rebar from the melt chamber, obviously impacting his paycheck. Operations such as these who perform additional alloy processes, and have portable and dedicated spectrometers, are better suited for this type of business. That said, I would purchase truckload quantities of copper chop, but never copper ingots.
Not necessarily true. Mixing steel and copper is actually difficult due to the big difference in melting points. Mixing aluminum with copper will drastically change the color and appearance as will Mixing zinc, tin, or lead. Copper has a distinct red color that is hard to mistake for anything else. The only thing relatively close would be red brass which is a brass with a high copper content. Aluminum bronze is light gold, yellow brass is yellow gold, red brass is more orange as is bronze. Most large foundries pre-shred the material and its accurately sorted by xray and air jets at a very fast rate.
I’ve melted down aluminum scrap and poured muffin tin sized ingots. The yard rarely says anything about them. They get classified as old cast, which is mostly true anyway given the stuff I find. I’ve never done copper ingots, but here in MI we have some serious scrapping regulations specifically to discourage copper theft. It wouldn’t surprise me if they flat out refused the ingots on the basis that they can’t be sure it wasn’t from something stolen.
“Maybe there’s water inside” made my wife and I cringe. I get it that you are only trying to help here and that is very much appreciated and the rest of the article seemed pretty legit. I’m not sure why anyone would go through the hassle of drilling out a bar or an ingot and try to fill it with water, or god forbid attempt to mix water in with liquid metal. Either way, that has the potential of seriously injuring someone or killing them, not to mention setting EVERYTHING on fire. We aren’t scrappers but know quite a few and know the kinds of people who do scrap. We do however do a significant amount of casting from scrap materials for artistic and practical uses for ourselves and for friends. Moisture and liquid metals don’t get along all that well. Take a look at steam explosions. There’s a reason that when home casting, ALL of your gear has to be completely dry. Otherwise, keep up the good work and thanks for another interesting article.
I’ll keep melting. I also started the copper purification method through electroplating. That way all the other stuff falls away, and it leaves just the copper,… then remelting it into ingots. Time consuming? Oh yes… but is it fun (especially knowing your copper is pure)? Hell yes! Definitely more of a hobby than a money making scheme. And that’s ok when you have a “normal” 40+ hr/wk job.
When I take motors apart for number two copper I melt it down and my yard buys it for number one copper just something I do for that kind of wire but I can up the value of it by doing that but that’s just my yard a lot of yards won’t even take them but I have also took bars up to them that was copper pipe with sorter on it and I borax it twice I told him it was number two copper they tested it it’s almost 100% 99.2% pure so yeah depends on what you like but the article is correct looking forward to more
Good article. I think a lot of people do it because it’s a neat project and I’d like to make a few some day myself. But I truly hope people are not using all this propane/gas energy just to drop it off at the scrapyard. Same applies to precious metals. If it’s just for selling…. leave it in scrap form.
Take what he says with a grain of salt (not meaning as disrespect but there are two view points in this equation and yours is biased towards your view point as mine is to mine). Scrap yards are always looking for ways to screw you over. You can bring bare bright in but because it’s 14guage stranded they only give you #2 or #3 pricing which is a big difference from #1 in pricing. So “REAL” advice from a “REAL” electrician is research the scrap yards around you and don’t be afraid to look up to 80 miles out. In my area alone there are roughly 21 scrap yards that buy scrap. Out of those 21 only 1 will give fair pricing and not try to screw me over in the process. #1 RESEARCH THE YARDS! #2 Find The Yard That Best Suits You! #3 Learn the rules/grading/pricing they offer. #4 Smelt only what needs to be smelted. If they pay #1 pricing for 12guage Stranded then leave it intact and sell it as it is (#1 because you will lose weight when smelting and #2 it’s an expensive process to get started into if you do it correctly). #5 If a scrap yard wants to cut your bars in half…. let them and be nice about it. Just make sure to have them record the weight before cutting! #6 And for heaven’s sake don’t sell because you have it…. Sell when the market is appropriate… which right now… it’s not lol
Of course your going to say that because it gives you more options with the metal . My buyer does cut the ingots and checks the quality but I do get a better price for my efforts especially with aluminum and it’s much easier to transport then bulky scrap ! I also cut my steel into 3’ pieces for easier handling and clean rivets and bolts off and box them separate . A bit of effort goes a long ways !
I’ve thought about melting my own,basically for storage and ease of moving. So I called some some yards at home to see if it was worth the time and extra expense. Well none would buy them. Some acted like they didn’t know what I was talking about. One wouldn’t give me an answer to why. So I thought they was just stupid. So I called a place in a bigger city. He explained that he had a density gun or some crap,that could tell if I had mixed the copper with other metals. He said he’d buy them at #1 price,but there was another shop down the road that would pay more. Im not out to cheat,just want to be paid for the effort. Then again I’ve heard that people make ingots for when the bottom falls out of the dollar. Then there’s the where did you get it question. Majority of the scrap I get comes from appliances and such,but some also comes from dumpster diving at work. So I can’t prove where i get it. Im still conflicted about doing it.
” I don’t know what’s inside it, I don’t know how much dirt there was, maybe there’s water inside it. maybe its mixed with steel, maybe there tin coated copper, maybe there’s some aluminum” How many of those can actually happen? dirt? less dense than copper and floats to the surface if not burned off immediately Water? Seriously, did he say water????? would cause an explosion in molten copper Steel? Yes, you can incorporate small amounts of steel in Copper during melting. Not sure it ifs any significant amount. but at least that’s plausible. Steel will float on molten copper, so it needs to be thin pieces that can actually melt at similar temps. Aluminum? Yes, you can make Aluminum Bronze, but if you can’t tell the difference in the color, you don’t belong in the scrap industry. Tinned copper? Yes, definitely possible. Not sure how much it would effect the weight and color. I have a batch that I need to melt to see how it comes out.
The only static I have ever gotten from my local scrapper, which is part of a national chain, is my longer ingots got cut twice as described to ensure their machines got an accurate image. So I just make more shorties. My devil forge burns at an adjustable pressure giving me complete control over how slow and therefore economically I melt each material. I make Alot more via ingots than I otherwise would. Not had this problem with two other yards either. Not sure where you are but that’s my own experience.
He is not wrong, for a scrapyard this is business, melting the copper down opens them up to scams and does not guarantee them the purity level, forcing the scrapyard to either take pointless risks or do extra steps to analyze the copper. That said if you have a long lasting relationship with a scrapyard you can always ask, if you bring them metric loads of material you could raise the issue but at that point I’d suggest pressing it down like they do with old cars, it is less energy intensive and less expensive on your side. If you do want to melt down the copper, do an extra step and either pretty up your ingots or pour it into coin shapes, cubes, basically put some creativity into it and sell it on ebay or similar sites for a WAY higher margin than you would with scrap. For instance I am planning on doing just that and I would not expect a scrapyard to accept it.
I make metal ingots because it’s a way to invest in metals you can take a heap of scrap metal which to me is next to worthless and turn it into nice ingots and they will always have some kind of value and they look a whole lot better than a heap of scrap metal. Medals of any card almost always hold their value or some kind of value of course the price fluctuates but they always have some kind of value.
All you’d have to do is measure the density of the ingots. Throw all the ingots in a bucket of water filled to the top, measure the amount of water that flows out, and then measure the weight of all the ingots. If the density matches that of copper to within decent precision, you know that you’re not being scammed. We’ve known of this technique since the time of Archimedes (250 BC).
My take is if you are going to sell recovered metals to scrapyards, do it in raw form. Aluminum cans are aluminum cans, and to them, they can bake it all without question. Ingots means they have to cut the stupid thing open to verify that it is what it is. If one is planning to use recovered metals for their own casting projects, then by all means make it into ingots. Trash bags of aluminum cans is not pleasant to have around, takes up space and is a pain to store and move, compared to ingot form. It is also easier to melt down for casting as well. (I am aware that soda can aluminum is not casting grade for machine usable parts such as engine components or anything structural so don’t @ me. I grow tired of negative replies regarding the matter instead of offering options and solutions to make such aluminum more usable.)
I’m meltdown at least two ingots a month that’s approximately 14 ounces but what you’re saying is 100% true if you don’t have a relationship with the junkyard or the recycling person then you might have a problem I’ve been doing business with my recycler for 20 years and if you find something that’s out of the ordinary, they might randomly cut one and get open and if there’s an issue I will address it with him immediately but you’re right if you’re a newcomer to this it’s probably not the best way to do it when you start out
My brother inlaw was a sheeny man and he was at a convenience store and a Electronics recycling yard owner i’m gonna walk up whipped out a fist full off hundreds and insulted him ingront of the store owner. The store owner an immigrant from India told him to go find a property he will put the money up my runs the business and Fifty fifty split on profit and the bonus to run the asshole out of business. He laughed and thought the store ower was straight gassing him. A couple weeks later he pulls into the store and little Indian man came flying outside before he could open his door wondering why he hasent been back with any potential properties becuse he got the money ready to start. All becuse of an insult not even directed toward him the store owner changed his life finacially they are selling direct to india and are open businesses in India. Unfortunattely my brother inlaw is a stuck up prick now and if that slob can have a recycling yard i should cash out what i have in my pension and put his ass out of business.
Don’t make sense at all bro, this is another excuse for scrap marketing, no matter after u melted even with big giant mnc company smelter there is always contaimented substance, please rmb this is raw material so it had to be remelted with other raw material in the smelter for new product 😂 the only thing that is true is the percentage but it can be control by own
When the guy who rips you off of 90% of the value of your metals tells you NOT to make ingots you probably shouldn’t listen. If the scrap yard doesn’t trust you then you’re either a new face or you’ve ripped them off before. Make ingots and eBay them. The worst thing that can happen is the prices at scrap yards will go up. Imho
I get a 20 cent difference between filthy as F copper covered in plastic and clean bare. After stripping ALL the plastic off my copper, i realized I prob took ALOT more weight off than I gained from having it clean. If you’ve got the room somewhere just store it in a bin outside till its time to sell.
Also it is just a waste of time, money, materials, and is worse for the environment. People think they will “make more money” but you also need to consider the cost of materials and time as well, plus the environmental costs of burning fuel and melting metals. PLUS the potential health effects of breathing in airbourne particles of copper, zinc, etc. All this for MAYBE a more condensed version of copper? The idea that the extra money from changing copper from Number 3 to Number 2 would be worth the time, energy, etc makes no sense. You might be spending maybe 40$ an hour worth of materials, costs, and labor for an extra 2 bucks. And the potential of getting third degree burns from the high heat. Just do the lazy thing and give the wires to the professionals.
Just because you see wire doesn’t mean you know what it’s made of. Changing shapes doesn’t affect the quality of the metal, unless it has been mixed with other things in the process. I know many people who drop “copper” to scrappers and I can tell you it definitely isn’t pure copper, yet they still pay for it because it’s in a “form” they recognise 😆
You better not crush your aluminum cans as well. They cut the price in half if they are crushed. Save your money from buying a can crusher. I’ve taken 100s of pounds of aluminum, copper, brass and tin, not a single bit of any other metals, to a scrap yard 4 miles away. I got just enough money to pay for my gas there and back.
Selling to a hobby caster near you for a price between what the scrap yard would pay and what it would cost to buy that metal online can get you more money. They may prefer ingots because they will be easier to store. Smaller ones like muffins would be better since, as a hobby, they won’t usually be casting a bunch at a time. As a hobby, they create decorations, weapons, tools, etc. They don’t need a perfect alloy. Copper is copper, tin is tin. Just don’t be a jerk and add a small amount of a different metal to copper to make more money. If there isn’t a hobby caster near you, then sell it to the scrap yard raw. The shipping will probably cost too much.
Are you kidding?… No seriously why would some who has taken their time to smelt any type of scrap whether it be Aluminum, Copper, Gold or Cast Iron or etc. And as they did, working hard to get that ingot to it’s purest form your going to tell me you can trust copper wiring because you can see through it. Instead of thanking him for you receiving that type of ingot in it’s purest form. You just don’t want to pay us for what is given to your Scrapyard. I can’t believe you said @ 0:38 in this part of the article he is say that we who have smelted any scrap would try to cheat the scrapyard or make it look like copper but it be filled with wait for this. “water” I’m sorry, that one got me good. Instead making all of the smelters mad like I am and Around the world just pay us half of what that ingot is worth instead of worrying if their is in mine or others work. And instead of cutting the ingots you receive how about get a weighing machine with a sensor that reads if the object that you are trying to weigh is soiled or hallow. “Or could be filled with water” lol it gets me every time, My recommendation is to call and talk to a scrapyard owner and see what he or she will give to you and ask if they will not cut into the ingot you produced due to the fact that is cutting that ingots face value in half.
Given the price of fuels these days it really doesn’t make sense to melt anything. There’s a article of a guy melting 8,000 cans and he shows the amount of propane used, check it out, the article also shows him paying for the propane, ouch. The cost of the fuel to melt the metal is going to pretty much negate any profitable income. Unless you start looking at melting tons of scrap on a daily basis it’s a losing battle, costing more than the scrap yard or metal buyer will pay.
Ahh i disagree also u can get clean copper prices also compared to copper1 or c2 or even dirty prices which really makes a difference the higher amounts of weight you take in and this goes for pretty much all metals u might take and if ur using a propane setup is pretty cheap to get a bunch smelted down compared to electric, also its better for the little snippings and trimmings of copper wires and stuff that u would get a heavy deduction for if its still in its sleeves as compared to clean copper ive been doing it for several years now and there are many situations where its more cost effective and gets higher profit the only time i dont is if its already solid like tubing or giant wire but even then they will try and give u dirty prices if its not shiny copper color
Thanks for the info. I’m a garbage man and I clip the wires off of appliances and so forth. In just under 6 months, I have collected three 50 gallon trash can overflowing with insulated copper wire of various sizes. I just made a homemade speed stripping jig and I’m about to start stripping it rather than Burn It Off so I can get copper one value versus copper two. I’m not in a real hurry to cash it in so I was considering learning how to make a smelter to reduce storage space. But I suppose the naked wire will compact reasonably well enough under some weight into buckets or cans. Probably saved me a lot of hassle and headache and unnecessary work for nothing. Thank you for this article.
If your honest in what you do and have established a good relationship with the scrap yard none of that should be problem….but scrap yards aren’t stupid. If you’ve been cashing in your pop cans religiously every few month’s for 3 year’s and the other scrap yard down down the street and around the corner raises what they pay by two cent’s a pound for a couple of months and you quit comeing in they know where you’ve been cashing in your aluminium.
Hey man good article I appreciate the advice but I do have another question. What if we are just doing this to test how good the copper can conduct a current when we scrapped it down from something like pennies? I would like to start getting into this hobby but I want to do the proper research first. Also money is not really my concern I’m just curious about some things is all.
Yea… Nice article if you actually plan to sell to scrappers. Any metal worth turning into an ingot should go to a different market, not scrap yards. Sell ingots to bullion collectors. There’s a lot out there and they pay a lot more. Sell scrap to scrap yards. Regardless, keep making those ingots and keep stamping them properly. It’s a lot more profitable.
In the UK we also have provenance laws making it necessary to reveal the source; ingots are highly suspect. We’ve had a lot of thefts of copper cable from railways etc. so the law was changed. In any case, the cost of gas these days means you’ve really got to want to do it for aesthetic reasons, or to make blocks for sale a welding heat sinks etc. I’ve never tried to sell any so have no first-hand experience. 🇬🇧
street scrappers want a fair price for what they bring in . . . . .I’ve even gone as far as to cut my wires in 2″ lengths too jam a bucket / barrel full to save space and having so many containers. . . . . do you want the copper or not ? if you’re worried about what is in an ingot or a ball of wire, I’m worried that you have a chunk of steel under your scale keeping my poundage down and you ripping me off !!!!
Pretty sure they have lumped all of it into one category. The old “good” stuff had arsenic in it. Extremely resistant to rot, insects died from boring into it (carpenter bees and termites) very resistant to mold. The new “yellow wood” sucks. We have a 16×20 deck built 25 years ago with no problems at all. Our new “yellow wood” front deck of 6×8 rotted after 4 years, full of carpenter bee tunnels and fungus growth. The new stuff uses copper sulfate, they don’t advertise it but the manufacturer warns about the use of aluminum furniture on it. Again, the new stuff sucks.
If it cannot be left on the ground, then you cannot use it in building construction. Pole barns use treated posts, many use the treated wood along sidewalks for flower beds. Outside wooden staircases. This stuff is been around a long time, over 40 years, and you’re just now starting to worry about it.? We can’t even pick up a plastic bottle and now you’re worried about this crap. So what are you going to do, make everybody tear their stuff down or up.? Next it’ll be the plywood. Or as you call it OSB, I call it old BS. So I guess we go for a class action lawsuit.?
I really feel sorry for anybody who lives in California right now. California’s state government and Governor Newsom in particular can’t pull their head out of their ass if they tried and they are sinking that state into further and further debt with no end in sight. There is a mass Exodus going on in California right now and I don’t blame anybody who’s leaving
Stupid politicians always seem to come up with new bans on things, but no solutions to resolve it. I like the idea of cleaning toxic things, but leaving that contractor no choice but to let it pile up at his home. Does he want that? The answer is no and create an illegal dumping problem somewhere else. Trucking it with a licensed contractor out of state or whatever would cost a lot of money.
Absolutely ridiculous. Complete backwards thinking by California. They ban TWW without providing any alternatives or solutions for the millions of contractors in California. TWW has been dumped into landfills for decades. The logical and sensible thing would have been to wait a few months or even a year and created a solution or alternative for contractors before they completely banned it. This is such a big problem for contractors and could put a lot of contractors out of business.
That will surely solve the spiraling out of control homeless problem that billions in increased taxes has just made worse. And I’m looking forward to how this will certainly curtail the exodus of businesses and other tax payers fleeing California. Thank god Newsom is in office, this is definitely the best of all possible worlds we live in now, in California.
I work for DTSC and I would like to point out that our department had no part in this decision. The regulations for the alternative management of Treated Wood expired because the state legislative put an expiration date on them 5 years ago and failed to renew them. If you complain to anyone, complain to the state senate who failed to do their job and renew the statutes that allowed for the regulations.
It seems to me that I would get a wood chipper and carefully make sure that there are no nails or pieces of metal in that wood that you want to dispose of. I would then put that wood through the chipper and turn it into sawdust. I think that if your mind wanders around a little bit you can figure out what to do with the sawdust. Remember you voted for these people they run your state. If you’re smart you’ll get rid of them. Remember if you want to eat an elephant you don’t try to eat him all at one time you take a couple bites every day, think about that. I came back to edit these comments because I forgot one important thing, because this is public knowledge about not being able to dispose of this wood I would be charging confiscatory prices to haul it away.
Chromated copper arsenic is used to pressure treat lumber. Put it in the ground and it leeches out carcinogens and poisons into ground water everyone drinks. Burn it and the smoke contains the same. Using naturally water resistant species or properly staining and sealing untreated lumber is the solution. This product, while temporally convenient for some, is a long term problem for all.