SharkBite fittings are IAPMO tested and approved for both behind-the-wall and underground applications, making them a permanent solution for both residential and commercial plumbing. They meet the necessary standards for permanent installation and can be used in concealed areas, even in walls. To properly install SharkBite brass push fittings, measure and mark the insert depth on the outside of the pipe and check the SharkBite insertion depth chart.
SharkBite connections are larger and bulkier than other methods, so they may not fit within the space allowed. However, they are suitable for a variety of pipes and include an integral liner to protect fittings from damage. The SharkBite Tectite comes with a guarantee of 50 years, and tube lines are available.
Both plumbing professionals and DIYers turn to SharkBite connections when they have to replace small pieces of damaged water line. They meet international codes (uniform plumbing code and international plumbing code) and have a warranty of up to 25 years. While some people may not think it is right to use SharkBite fittings inside the wall, they are approved for concealed locations and are considered a legit connection even in walls.
The myth that SharkBite fittings are only good for short-term repairs and need to be replaced by permanent connections is false. While SharkBite fittings work fine and are approved, the cost is a concern. Jordan Bragg, a Salt City Plumbing expert, claims that they can do an entire building with their fittings, meaning they are enclosed in walls and should last a long time.
In conclusion, SharkBite fittings are a reliable and affordable solution for both residential and commercial plumbing needs. They meet the necessary standards for permanent installation and are suitable for both residential and commercial use.
📹 Should You Use Sharkbite Fittings | DIY Plumbing
Chapters 0:00 Introduction 1:05 Sharkbite Fitting Internal Design 1:53 How To Install a Sharkbite Fitting 3:53 Type of Sharkbite …
What is the life expectancy of a SharkBite fitting?
Since 2004, SharkBite fittings have been utilized, exhibiting an average lifespan of 25 years when installed in accordance with the provided instructions.
Do professional plumbers use SharkBite fittings?
SharkBite fittings are often considered an emergency fix for plumbing systems, but a growing number of DIYers argue they are as durable as soldering. While most plumbers believe they aren’t strong enough to create long-lasting connections, many homeowners still rely on soldering for long-term plumbing projects. This makes finding a firm that uses push-to-fit fittings difficult, as they may not be as strong as soldering.
How reliable are SharkBite fittings?
While SharkBite fittings are reliable and well-suited for emergency repairs, it is important to note that they may potentially exhibit leakage if installed in an improper manner. The fittings are compatible with a range of materials, including PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT, and HDPE. They are designed for ease of installation and removal on hot and cold water lines, eliminating the need for specialized tools.
Leaks are frequently the result of inadequate installation techniques. Therefore, it is of paramount importance to ensure that the fittings remain visible and accessible for inspection and maintenance.
Where should you not use SharkBite fittings?
It should be noted that SharkBite fittings are only certified for potable water and radiant heating installations.
Do sharkbites eventually leak?
SharkBite fittings are designed for reliable connections, but repeatedly or incorrectly disconnecting can damage the fitting and leak. To avoid damaging the pipe or fitting, use tools approved for disconnecting push fittings. Unapproved tools may push the grab ring teeth deeper into the pipe. For a fast and easy disconnection, use SharkBite disconnect tongs, clip, or tool. The pro disconnect tool can be used for multiple sizes, but ensure they match the same size as your fitting. These tools apply pressure to the release collar, splaying the grab ring teeth and releasing the pipe from the fitting.
What do plumbers think of SharkBite?
SharkBite fittings, commonly referred to as push-to-connect fittings, are not only suitable for short-term repairs but also suitable for permanent installation in concealed spaces. They are approved by the Uniform Plumbing Code and International Plumbing Code, and if properly installed, they provide permanent connections with a 25-year warranty. They are designed for permanent connections and should not be disconnected or reconnected repeatedly. To remove them properly, use the SharkBite PRO disconnect tool, tongs, or clips. These fittings are not meant for repeated use and can be trusted in concealed spaces.
Do SharkBite fittings leak over time?
SharkBite fittings are designed for reliable connections, but repeatedly or incorrectly disconnecting can damage the fitting and leak. To avoid damaging the pipe or fitting, use tools approved for disconnecting push fittings. Unapproved tools may push the grab ring teeth deeper into the pipe. For a fast and easy disconnection, use SharkBite disconnect tongs, clip, or tool. The pro disconnect tool can be used for multiple sizes, but ensure they match the same size as your fitting. These tools apply pressure to the release collar, splaying the grab ring teeth and releasing the pipe from the fitting.
Why do plumbers say not to use SharkBite?
Sharkbite fittings are a popular choice among plumbers due to their quick and convenient nature, but they may not be built to last. They can wear and tear over time, leading to leaks that can ruin your home. Despite being cheaper initially, they can end up costing more in the long run. Investing in quality materials and workmanship is more cost-effective than quick fixes, which can lead to recurring issues.
Additionally, sharkbite fittings may not provide the same level of safety as traditional methods, especially in crucial applications like gas lines or high-pressure systems. Therefore, plumbers are hesitant to trust these fittings to hold up under pressure, as they may lead to a plumbing mishap that could turn your home into a water park.
What are the disadvantages of SharkBite?
The durability of the product may be compromised by excessive use, as the lubricant necessary for optimal functionality is depleted. While these tools are robust in terms of holding power, they are not optimal for use on walls or the ground. Consequently, they are well-suited for DIY projects and basements. To locate the desired content, one may utilize the search bar, peruse the available categories, or alternatively, log in. While creating an account is optional, it does allow users to customize the content that is displayed to them.
Can SharkBite fittings be used inside walls?
SharkBite push-to-connect fittings are certified for concealed wall use, but local plumbing codes are recommended for specific applications. They are approved by IAPMO for underground applications as long as the fitting is wrapped with silicone tape, a self-fusing silicone tape that protects brass fittings from ground contaminants. No specialized tools are needed to connect SharkBite fittings, but the SharkBite Deburr and Gauge Tool is recommended for deburring and measuring pipe depth. The pipe must be square, deburred, and free of debris before installation.
Do professionals use SharkBite?
SharkBite fittings are a popular choice for plumbers due to their time-saving, easy installation, and reliability. They are often used in plumbing systems to replace soldering with copper pipes, as they are time-saving and easy to install. However, they also have common problems that plumbers may encounter. This article explains how SharkBite fittings work, their compatibility, and some tips for their installation. While most professionals prefer soldering for quick fixes, some believe that push-to-fit fittings are equally durable and can be used in any part of the plumbing system.
📹 Shark Bite Fittings Awesome or a Liability?
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I plumbed my entire house with Sharkbite including a sediment filter, softener and on demand water heater leading to a sink, bathroom faucet, toilet and shower as well as a washer- not a single issue. It’s how you install them. Like in every manufacturing process, you may get a defective one- it happens. But for the most part it’s user error that causes leaks.
I work at Lowe’s in the plumbing department and I agree totally with SharkBite push to fit being more expensive however one thing I have found since covid very difficult for a customer a homeowner to contract a plumber in a timely manner if they are DIY Savvy these are great fittings we sell a ton of these
For a handyman, SharkBite is a godsend. I’ve installed whole house water filters and water softener systems with PEX and SharkBites, never had any significant issues. Even changed a leaky main shutoff valve with it, went from copper to PEX to PVC with just 2 couplers and a ball valve, under 15 minutes. Can’t beat the speed and the simplicity.
I’m not a professional plumber, just been a home owner for the last 5 or so years. I’m 26 so even after doing my own basic home repairs as a home owner I have not problem admitting “I don’t have the whiskers” of say someone who’s a diyer in their home that’s older and has owned a home longer, but my precious house I had two pin hole leaks in my copper pipe and I used shark bites and years after no issue. On my second house now I recently had to replace my washing machine shut offs and installed a laundry sink all using shark bites and I’ve had no issue. I wouldn’t use them behind a wall but in plain sight they haven’t let me down so far.
We have a bathroom on an exterior wall above the garage, so those pipe have a high chance to freeze during extreme cold. Apparently, the previous owner repaired several places in that wall several years ago with sharkbite fittings. When TX has it’s big freeze this past year, those pipes froze again (yes, all pipes were wrapped and the walls properly insulated). Most of the soldered copper joints in that wall failed, some of them completely separating from the copper pipe. Not a single one of the sharkbite joints, installed the previous hard freeze, failed. It was a no-brainer for me which solution I was going with for the latest repair.
I’ve installed Hundreds of sharkbite fittings. I’ve only had one leak, A valve I installed behind a toilet leaked, The pipe was clean and perfect I removed the valve and reinstalled it and it leaked again, So I removed it and installed a different sharkbite valve and it sealed up no-problem. So out of hundreds on sharkbite fittings I’ve used only one was defective. I just don’t install them behind walls. I am a maintenance guy for over 100 properties in two counties so anything that speeds up my job so I can move onto the next job is a plus.
I’d suggest besides deburring the ends of the pipe you also use Scotch Brite or similar material to clean the outside of the pipe where the O-ring will slide during the install and where it will reside once installed. The smoother the surface, the better chance for the O-ring to effectively seal. The prep is the most important part of the entire operation IMHO, for Sharkbites and for soldered joints.
I’m 63 and have installed many hot water heaters for my self,family and friends. I’ve always soldered. My current home is on a well. Needed to replace my leaking water heater. I decided to try the shark bite products . Well I am now a fan. It took me longer to clean up the trash from the box than it did to replace the heater. I would be a bit concerned installing a fitting in an enclosed wall. But they are reliable. And if they do leak it hopefully will be a drip leak rather than a gusher. Shark bite gets my Vote. 😊
I have a plumber to re-pipe my house and he used instead copper pipe, pex tube plastic but he used on the joints only shark bites even behind the wall also in the attic and I really worry about it, because, if one if them leak is going to make a big mess. I was thinking to pay someone else to replace those shark bites for. Something more reliable, the big question is for you, what should I do in this matter? I like your website very much and I really appreciate all your help and teaching information.👍🏻💯🙏
Super for working in and around tight spots next to wooden studs and floor joists. Due to cost I prefer soldering and I purchased a bunch of fittings years ago so I will use up my inventory. I will not be buying Shark-bites, but when the instance arises in a tight spot SB’s are a life saver. I was shocked to find out that millions are used weekly. Have not heard of these until 2021.
As a DIY that does have copper soldering skills, I prefer to solder. Especially, on a connection that I won’t be able to see. But… I used these a few times on a few projects and I am finding that I REALLY like them. I keep 3/4 and 1/2 caps handy for just in case situations. I haven’t seen any leaks and they work. Win-win
Both of the biggest pros are mentioned in the article. I’ve actually used a sharkbite ball valve on a pipe in full flow. The next pro is that they can be used to cap pipes. If a connection hasn’t been finished and the water needs to be turned back on for whatever reason, the sharkbite caps are great. They can be removed without having to cut the pipe off, or heat up the fitting to remove it or whatever. And as for seeing them fail… not often. I had a guy call me once and say that he’d tried to put a sharkbite angle stop on for a new toilet but he couldn’t get it to stop leaking. He told me that he never should have used the sharkbites and how he knew they were terrible. I turned the water off in the house. Used the bathroom faucet to bleed out the pressure and then pushed the fitting all the way onto the pipe. Problem solved.
Great vid, and I like your approach, using it for exposed pipes. If you want solid, low cost plumbing fittings, look into Uponor aka Pex-A, aka expansion Pex. My Dewalt expansion tool is very expensive. But the DIY guy can very well buy the much cheaper manual one on Amazon for around $100. An expansion fitting is pretty much never going to leak, idiot proof, very cheap, and fast. I think expansion pex is the way of the future. But you need to deal with a plumbing store. Big box stores won’t have it.
Best use I have found for these fittings were transitioning from copper to PEX where space was an issue and for capping off lines that had water in them. I was leery of these until I realized that this same type of fittings had been used in the auto industry at least since 1985. Fuel and transmission line connections.
I live in a house that was re-plumbed with PEX and Sharkbite fittings before I moved in. So far two have leaked, causing damage. I have no doubt they’re watertight when properly installed, but there’s the rub: it’s easy to install a SharkBite incorrectly in a way that looks fine, and doesn’t leak in the initial leak test, but will in the future. With other fittings, a bad connection is visually obvious or leaks immediately. The “easy to install!” marketing obscures the critical details that you have to get right.
I carry Sharkbite Max PTC to FNPT ball valves and PTC end caps for emergencies, running water, full pressure installations, crawl spaces, temporary use, mock ups, freeze calls and more I carry the FMPT ball valves so that I can transition to a variety of brass, copper and PEX fittings, and they eliminate one PTC connection once I stop the flow of water
I’m looking to install a water softener myself, never having done PEX (or copper) before. What I’m probably going to do is use clamp style connectors for most of it, and use Sharkbite push-to-connect wherever I need to connect to existing plumbing pipes (since I don’t know how to sweat pipes). Good idea about having a few caps around, just in case.
Recently I had 2 opportunities to use shark bites; both with cutting out burst copper 3/4″ heating pipes after the thermostat batteries died in a unoccupied home with the temp at -4F. Both were in difficult locations. One right on top of a vinyl sleeve with a 200A house input connections. I wasn’t willing to try solder. I used the 12″ repair part with no prior experience. It was very difficult to seat fully. I bought the lowest cost coupler and practiced on a scrap copper pipe. I found removing the PEX insert made it easier. But still the flex section was difficult. I wound up taking a pair of website lock and placing it around the solid brass adapter section, not gripping it and tapping the last 1/4″ home with a hammer on the website lock rivit. I then did a 18″ sharkbite with the PEX insert removed on a tight space with one end surrounded by 2×4 in a verticle connection to a baseboard hot water heater. I used the website lock trick again as there was no room to get good hand grip. Both repairs work great and now I dont have to sleep beside a space heater on a heating pad inside a sleeping bag in a 30F house.
I see a LOT of skoolie people using sharkbite for their conversions. I haven’t personally used them, because I didn’t know how they worked or what the advantages or disadvantages were compared to normal PVC or copper etc. Your demonstration about how it works was REALLY good. I loved the cut in half view. Now that i understand it a bit more, i might go and experiment. I think i would have pushed the pipe only until it was sitting right in front of that o-ring, and thus it likely would have leaked for me. Sadly, my skoolie is no more, it threw a rod and I had to scrap it, so the places where i can use a sharkbite right now are VERY limited, but it’s cool that i have more knowledge about it now.
As a diy-er, I regret not using sharkbite first go. If I hired a plumber and they used sharkbite, I would be mad. But if I am bad at soldering and I have to DIY, I would 100% use this, and I would use this again. Sharkbite >> bad soldering job any day. Saves me tons of time. The shut off valve shark bite is so good, it should be a plumber’s best friend. I kept taking it off the shut off valve and reattached it pipe by pipe to make sure water does not leak. Tips: Make sure the sharkbite is at the insertion depth instead of trying to just eye ball it.
Push-in fittings have been around for over 50 years, mainly in filtration systems, refrigerators, soda machine dispensers, and ice-makers. Shark Bites are just an advanced version of such fittings. They are fully approved by plumbing UPC and IPC plumbing Codes, covering entire United States – and that is buried, and in concealed locations without a need for access door. As a working plumber, with over four decades in the field, I must say that Shark Bite fittings are life savers, especially in emergency situatiions. Will they fail? I am sure they will eventually fail – just like everything else in our life. Question should be asked whether they will last reasonable amount of time before they fail. Answer is: Yes, they will last reasonable amount of time before they fail. I have been using Shark Bite fittings in emergency situations in residential applications for over 20 years – and so far I had not have single fitting to fail on me. I have noting but positive experience with Push-In fittings. Thank you.
I never understand why so many people say they trust the caps but are somewhat and somehow more doubtful of the other Sharkbite fittings. They use the same technology. I installed a couple of dozen Sharkbite fittings in my home over 12 years ago, and I haven’t had a single problem with any of them. I opened a wall recently and was thus able to inspect them. If you prepare your pipe end properly (so it isn’t sharp), and you make sure it is fully inserted, and your pipe is in good condition (not bent, kinked or gouged), you’ll be fine. Think about it this way: On the one hand, every sweated copper plumbing joint is done more or less well. A properly-sweated copper joint might be better than a Sharkbite (though I don’t know if there’s any evidence of that), but there will be hundreds of sweats in a residential copper plumbing installation. Some are bound to be done less well, and those are the ones that will fail. On the other hand, if you inspect and prepare your pipe end each time, and fully insert it, every Sharkbite connection will be done as well as it can be done. Viewed that way, I’m convinced that Sharkbites are the better way to go. Virtually every copper piping leak I’ve seen has occurred at the fittings. Sharkbite fittings are MUCH thicker and heavier-duty, and their connections are much more certain.
Completely agree: My bottom line on it is what you and many others have said: Putting ANY fitting that depends upon an o-ring INSIDE a wall seems just plain dumb! Secondly, I simply do not see a Sharkbite fitting as being all that much faster than a sweated fitting IF I already have the torch. etc out to work with. That said, there are places where sweating is difficult/risky and a snap-together fitting would be waaay easier! And they are hard to beat for a quick temp cap on a plumbing stub out (which, BTW, was something you should have mentioned: The removal tool for them!)
Think about the example of needing to replace a shut off. It’s visible, you can see a leak. The classic multi turn valve ALSO has a limited lifespan and will also start to leak. In my experience the seals get brittle, you go to actually use it and grind the seal apart leading to a slow leak. Let’s assume Sharkbites fail in the same way… but if you take that multiturn off, especially if soldered, it’s a HUGE pain to replace that valve because you lost pipe taking it off. A Sharkbite gets removed, replaced and away you go. Compression valves are similar I suppose, and likely have most of the same pros/cons. Sharkbites are easier to install and seal than compression seals in my experience.
Scott, Your Shark Bite Fitting article does a great job of covering the fitting’s design, how it works, advantages and disadvantages, and where and where not to use the fitting (i.e., do not use the fitting behind a wall). COULDN’T HAVE BEEN DONE BETTER. You solicited recommendations for improvement, so I would like to make one suggestion. While demonstrating how you seated a piece of tubing, I noticed that you used a piece of copper tubing and a Shark Bite Fitting that were not rigidly connected to another piece of copper tubing. So, you didn’t have to apply very much force to get it to seat properly. In my Jan 2021 article on Installing a Shark Bite Fitting for a Refrigerator Water Line within a section of very rigid ½ inch copper water line, I explained that I initially had a leak with the fitting and had to give a nearby elbow joint a strong tap with a hammer and block of wood to get the fitting to seat and stop leaking. Considering there are some YouTube articles covering Shark Bite leaks, other folks are having this problem. If you are interested in seeing how I seated my refrigerator water line Shark Bite Tee, my article is located here on YouTube: youtu.be/oZWuiTWDEBw Most importantly, I strongly recommend that DIYers installing Shark Bite Fittings review your article prior to starting work. WELL DONE! Regards, Lets Fix It Right
Sharkbite fittings will leak over time. I once was sent to diagnose and repair a house that had water flooding out of the bottom of a finished basement wall. After removing the drywall (what was left of it) I found a Sharkbite fitting that was put in there about 5 years prior. I replaced the fitting with another one but cleaned up the ends of the pipes first. It is usually cheaper to just use the same fitting as the pipe. The damage from the water is the most expensive. ie. Wood rot, drywall, carpet, mold…
I installed a new hot water heater 7 years ago using Sharkbite fittings…they never leaked. I just upgraded to a hybrid hot water heater and rerouted the piping to improve it. I reused the Sharkbite fittings from the previous install and so far, no leaks. But, I would not want to use them in a wall where they are inaccessible.
I’m reading that copper plumbing isn’t permanent, either. Depending on what’s in the water, pin hole leaks can develop. I did use a Sharkbite fitting in one house where the street pipe came into the house. It was some kind of blue plastic pipe from the meter. In that house, the pipe only extended about 1″ into the basement down at the floor level. Down at the floor and with only limited access I wasn’t about to attempt gluing pipe on, so I slipped on a Sharkbite instead. We sold the house a year or two later without incident.
A couple of years ago we had a hard freeze. The cold and hot water lines inside the wall of our laundry room burst, flooding the room after the lines thawed out. Before you ask YES! the walls were insulated. The lines were 1/2 inch copper. There was no room to soldier new lines in place. So I used SB fitting and completed the repairs. Thus far no leaks
Sharkbite fittings have their place but I prefer compression fittings and sweating copper. It’s a major chore to remove a sharkbite in a tight spot is necessary. Compression fittings simply unscrew. I spent 25 years installing commercial dishwashers in restaurants, schools and hotels. I’m old school and like to solder copper. A finished job of soldered copper looks so much more professional. Yes the ball valve is much easier then the cap on a gushing pipe!
In the dry and hot climate here in Phoenix, AZ with no basements, I wouldn’t use those. Most lines would be run in the hot attic out here or in the foundation, and you’re not going to pour concrete over one of those fittings. I think the o-ring would finally fail after 15+ years. If you have a basement (and a drain in case it leaks someday) and it’s not on a upper floor where it may flood your whole house, I say go for it!
I’ve used them under the kitchen sink for the faucet, and for a refrigerator that required a new line for an ice maker. These were several years ago, and no leaks. But the biggest reason to use them in my estimation, is when you have an area where there’s no room to run the soldering torch without burning the house down. Then Sharkbites are fantastic.
I used my first shark bite 2003 to fix a joint leak in a christmas tree of a old hot water tank. I knew any torch would daisy chain a total mess. Thats still holding strong 20 years later, and I’ve probably easily installed over a hundred since in various repairs and renos over the years. Only ever saw one leak, and that was most recent, and it leaked immediately after install. I’d likely never torch again.
As a remodeling contractor of 27yrs experience I think everything you said is on point. I haven’t seen any failure when properly installed but have seen a lot of crazy plumbing work. Caps are a remodelers best friend for convenience. Most work I would use solder/ pex, caps and then sharkbites for less permanent or temp work.
I prefer Pex with stainless squeeze rings. Unlike the copper rings one tool does it all sizes for squeezing. An old plumber said they will take city water pressure which is higher than country pressure of 40-50 lbs .He has replaced lots of stolen copper plumbing with these type of pex rings. Shark bites are good for emergency repairs or add ons. I like gate/ ball valves over the older wheel valves,which are crap now. Pex is easy to do as long as u do as much as U can where u have room to work. Avoid getting backed into a corner. They have a battery powered ring squeezer which looks really handy. Plumbers who do lots of joints use these a lot.I have a Shark Bite that has been in service for 10 years. I was not sure they were a permanent fixture.
I love those shark bites. I used them to connect my water softener in the garage on my new home build that was pre plumbed with Pex. Easy and fast, however yes I would only recommend using them on the exterior or places that easily accessible and not behind walls. Time will tell as to their durability.
I have been trained as a plumber and came into the business when pex took over from Copper Pipe, I don’t know anything about shark bite but none of the other plumbers I know even entertain this conversation but I don’t know why as they seem very well, the water we have here is very hard and so I think that the hard water might degrade the O ring.
Copper is the best, but at today’s prices, it’s hard to justify it. If you are using all PEX, there would be no reason to use the push on fittings, like you said, 10.00 vs about 1.50 for a fitting and 50 cents for 2 crimp rings. A cinch type crimp tool can be bought for 25.00. I have seen several friend’s house with lots of water damage due to shark bite fittings. I just went to a friend’s house that just had a new water heater installed 2 months ago, with shark bite fittings, he wanted to show it to me, and we saw it was leaking. I checked and it was pushed all the way on. So, for me personally, the only reason I would use one is for an emergency, temporary repair!
John Guest a British Engineer invented push to connect plumbing fittings back in the 80’s around the same time copper was replacing galvanized plumbing. This type of fixture has a long history as does soldering copper plumbing fixtures. The push to connect fittings where invented to repair plumbing leaks on vessels for a speedy repair that does not require welding or soldering. Soldering should no longer be used to connect copper plumbing because solder is made from lead which contaminates drinking water. Lead entering the human body is very dangerous and that is the reason why paints no longer contain lead. At the least all homes with copper piping connected by soldering should have a water filtration system installed to remove the lead.
I’m a forced diy’r because I can’t find a plumber to install my new “Heat Master 7000″ outdoor wood boiler. I’m a former welder and can sweat copper, but I was just told about the Shark bite fittings. I’m interested because of tools to install 11/4” pex. I don’t have a large crimper and am considering “shark bite fittings. In your opinion, is this an acceptable meathod in my situation (going from a oil fired Pearless boiler supplying baseboard heat).
I’ve used Sharkbite connectors and shut off valves in my crawlspace without any problems. But inside a finished wall I use Pex fittings exclusively (Just my rule). I’ve had no leaks using Sharkbite fittings though they tend to be a little expensive. Other than that, they’re easy to use and very convenient for the DIYer. Highly recommended.
These will likely be good short term connectors (25 years) but for a heritage house that is expected to last 100 years or more NO WAY! My house is 75 years old and uses all iron pipe. Only two fails (recently) in all that time. (corrosion through the pipe wall from acidic soil in buried pipe locations.) Another place that could be total disaster is areas where the fitting could freeze. The ice could develop enough pressure to push the fitting off the end of the pipe. Another thing, there is different metal to metal contact so electrolysis corrosion may be a problem where the SS hits the brass. Corrosion problems are all going to take over 10 years to show up so still too early to tell if it is a problem. Most people don’t keep a house more than 10 years so who gives a crap! But if you buy a used house over 10 years old……
As a common idiot, I had a problem with my shower, it’s a REALLY tight space, I’m scared of soldering, I was dreading replacing anything because of those issues, and plumbers are both expensive and extremely heavily booked in my area for the foreseeable future. But I bought two flexible hoses, some fittings, etc, and SharkBite turned plumbing into lego, saving the day.
I am/was a “handyman” and always used them even now my outside freeze proof ? ( forgot name of part) is not shutting off and I cant remove/replace it because it s long and the AC dude installed the AC unit TOO CLOSE I’m cutting the inside pipe and installing a 1/2 “sharkbite ball valve I have to do that because I’m leaving for Wyoming for three weeks to hurt some fish lips with my fly rod .,so I can drain the line to the outside faucet so nothing can freeze ands burst. while I’m gone Also curious how deep ( measured) is the stop in a 1/2” sharkbite ball valve ?? I’ve never even marked depth and I must be lucky since I never had a leak in any of my repairs. s
I live in a 5 storey condo. My neighbour (third floor) recently had not one… but TWO failures of ‘SharkBite’ knock-off fittings in his laundry room (washer taps). About a month ago it was the hot water valve that blew out and just this past week it was the cold water valve that blew out! He had just completed a full renovation due to flood damage and now he has to do it again!! The apartments owners below him are NOT impressed… they too have some serious damage which would have been much worse if I had not been home (both times). I have a key to the basement room that has the building water shut-off. (98 Suites). It was not fun to spend hours vacuuming up water and doing the clean-up!! People will use the cheaper knock-offs if they don’t know the difference between “SharkBite” and knock-offs… so in my view we need to outlaw those things in this building!!
Sharkbites have proven their dependability as long as they are installed correctly. For the DIY’er, the fittings are expensive compared to other types, but making your own repair or line extensions without the need for a plumber will still be cheaper. Great for making repairs in tight spots where your not comfortable using a torch or don’t have room for PEX crimpers. Soldered copper remains a premium system, but PEX systems for larger jobs can now save you a lot of dollars.
As a general contractor I have buried SharkBite fittings behind most customer walls. If I ever have a water leak or complaint I will definitely let everybody know. But as of right now I stand by SharkBite fittings. Most important thing is to properly prepare your pipe or PEX. No matter what And that goes for all types of connections. Preparation is key
I’ve never seen a Shark Bite fail in my 25+ years as a remodeler and love using them in all cases. I have seen 6-7 sweated copper fittings that have failed causing minor to catastrophic home damage. If there is tension on a sweated copper fitting, over time that fitting can fail. Not so with a Shark Bite.
It’s interesting – in the UK push type fitting is the standard – US plumbers insist they will leak and fail. They don’t! Wagos are also the standard for electrical connections and US electricians insist they will fail – and yet Europe has significantly fewer house fires. I don’t really understand the skepticism given these are tested technologies. Life doesn’t have to be harder.
As a plumber of over 25yrs, I will say they are good to use in a pinch, just go back and do a real repair. I have seen these things explode. DO NOT use them on water heaters, can’t tell you how many emergency calls on the weekend I have to go to and repair because the rubber “O” ring melted. As the water heater gets hot it expands and puts more pressure on the sharkbite than it is rated for. Over time it WILL fail. Also sometimes it’s near impossible to get them off for the same reason and turns a small job into a big one, because now you have to cut out more pipe.
I know a lot plumbers hate it but I’d hate it too if I was plumber and they took a huge chunk of my business because installation is more diy. I do see the concern but I’ve worked for water municipal and they use bulky but concept fittings. Solder joints can fail, compression can fail, shark bite can fail but if it’s exposed shark bite is a good choice. If it’s in the wall pro press or solder joints unless you have a pipe chase then shark bite to your life’s content
I’ve personally used SharkBites to remodel a whole kitchen with PEX, couple laundry rooms, 5 bathrooms, and other uses on other assorted projects over the last 8 years, and have yet to ever have one leak on me. As long as you don’t have a situation where you have a surge of pressure in the system, and use water hammers, then I don’t think they would fail. Also a good idea to use just a little lubricant on the o-rings inside the SharkBites to keep them soft, shouldn’t have any issues ever.
My home has the old polybutylene from the 90’s and many of the shut off valves have failed over the years. I installed two shark bites on a tub shower unit in my home in 2016 with no problems. Recently I redid a bathroom sink with shut offs and on the water heater as well. I am keeping an eye on them, but so far no problems. Thanks for the article!😉
As a journeyman plumber I think sharkbit is definitely user friendly especially to someone with little or no experience. I deal with service, repair and remodel mostly this is also what I started in. I had an amazing teacher and his company was structured around god. On a normal day doing service I try and be 100 percent considerate to the customer. I try and sweat male adapters for faucet supplies water heater, toilet and so on. I have had customers compression angle stops pop off and have no clue how to handle this situation even myself before my experience would have no clue what to do. Now IP most know what and how to deal with it and this is why I like sharkbit because it gives most an edge and can be done without calling a professional and can be used on any pipe like size and can be IP and can connect to pipe same with all the different variations, ball valves, hose bibs, water heater supplies. Even slips parts to makes repairs. And even being in areas where you have tons of minerals in the water and it strips copper you can cut bad parts with pinholes slap a sharkbit fitting on and make a repair with pex and it’s a fairly decent amount of time and customers do not have to go without water for several days at a time…and as a professional I use it when I can..I’m 100 percent old and would rather sweat copper any day…but it’s useless in areas with tons of minerals..
I like the fact you can reuse them (I will lubricate the O-ring with a toothpick and some food grade silicone gel) and disassemble the joints easily. With some rental properties i usually keep a little sack with a couple half inch caps and a couple 3/4 inch caps in case there’s an emergency. The fact you can service a wet and dripping pipe is one of the most awesome things.
You mention the Sharkbite has a 25 year warranty. IDK, but does that included the damage done caused by a failed connection? That’s where the real cost comes in to a repair. And do you really save money in the long run if the fittings only have a 15 – 25 year lifespan? You might buy a new house, but in what seems like no time at all, your house is suddenly 25 -30 years old (if you bought a new house). When you start having to repair/replace damage from leaking fittings with Sharkbite, maybe the copper pipe and soldered fittings wasn’t such a good deal? And that doesn’t factor in inflation……
I’m a plumbing contractor. I only use the caps for temporary cap offs on renovations. No disrespect but I have seen many failures. Most are probably not being installed properly on domestic water systems. The worst failures I have seen are on Hydronic heating system’s on copper and pex. I have seen after short and long periods of time these fittings fail. I do a lot of insurance work and see these failing regularly on these systems. As a person getting involved with insurance work I have to find out why they leak. I take them apart and 95% of the time they seem to be installed properly. I am assuming that it is an issue with the high temperature’s and the constant expansion and contraction. I have never seen anything on the fittings or instructions that tell you,that you should not use these on Hydronic heating systems. The supply houses say that there are no restrictions on them and you can use them on heating systems. This needs to be addressed because the damage they cause is horrific. They don’t blow off but they just start leaking so slow and some leak a lot. These are a great idea in certain circumstances but like everything else there is a time and place for certain items. Unfortunately these fitting make everybody a plumber and some people should not touch them.
I believe that Shark Bite are designed for DIYers since those people are doing the work, they can afford the cost of the pieces. I also do not believe too heavily in the “o” ring, so personally I would never use a Shark bite in a wall or hidden space. Any failure, even if it is 25 years away could take too long to find and could potentially lead to more extensive issues
Yes, they could leak behind a wall. Are you going to tell me a soldered pipe has NEVER done that? When comparing price. The price of the copper fitting is more than just the fitting. There is the torch, gas, solder, and flux to pay for. So although the SB fitting may still cost more it isn’t as big a difference as it seems at first. You can solder a pipie with a SMALL amount of water. There is an old trick of blocking the pipe with bread that MAY enable it to be soldered.
Only cons I’ve really found are cost. In my opinion the pros far outweigh the cost issue, for the majority of common ways Sharkbite is used, which is not for a full-blown install (new home, etc). Fast repairs, emergencies, the ability to easily connect one type of pipe to another, it’s just a no-brainer for those instances. I keep a “go-bag” full of various sharkbite fittings for quick fixes where mixing pipe types, as well as emergency repairs.
I used combination of Sharkbite and Waterline “Push and Connect” fittings and ball-valves (3/4″ or 1/2″) in my house (both hot and cold lines) where they are visible for observations. Both brands are user friendly and easy to use. The only time they leaked on the couplings were the misalignment between the 2 rigid copper pipes. The leaks were corrected by using the pipe holder clips to align and fasten the 2 pipes properly behind a piece of wood.
I did a complete rehab/remodel on a house appx 7 years ago. The house had Polybutylene so I used Sharkbites to transition to PEX in the laundry, bath, kitchen and water heater. They are easy to use and I had no issues of leaks; the biggest downside is, as you said, cost, but definitely cheaper than replumbing inside the walls. The marking tip you gave is critical as they can leak if not fully inserted. One tip I would add is to use plumbers sandpaper after using Sharkbites demurring tool to smooth the deg and to debar the inside of copper pipes. One other feature of Sharkbites is they can be removed with their proprietary removal tool and reused. I liked the cutaway demonstration also.
I had a ‘pen jet’ leak by my water softener. I had worked on it earlier with SharkBite fittings, but the leak was outside of the area I fixed. Long story short: my attempts at soldering went bust, and if I had just gone the route of continuing to use SharkBites, I would have saved myself lots of time, even though the fittings are pricey. Time is $$. Oh, and I replaced the copper pipes with Pex.
Not sure if one of the other 176 commenters here mention this but–you brought up a great idea of having some Sharkbite caps around for quick capping of a pipe. That’s great if the whole-house shutoff is engaged–but what if it’s spewing high-pressure water, this article (youtube.com/watch?v=RrTKX5Jcwy8) shows that having an open-ended Sharkbite shutoff valve is what you want (spoiler!!). And it’ll work for both situations! Great thoughts, great advice, great insight all around!
I worked as the plumbing pro at lowes for 8 years,and sold hundreds a week of these,they pass code on water softners,water heaters here in las vegas.Grey poly was popular here and those bad boys can help put shut offs where they’re needed, because who has thousands to repipe or hundreds just to replace a manibloc.
The only experience I have on shark bite connectors for plumbing is with my water filtration system (Reverse Osmosis filtration) under my sink. The connecting tubes are small tough flexible plastic. What I don’t like about these connectors is that whenever I have to detach the tubes from them (like when I have to disinfect the water storage tank), it is rather difficult. This is because the collar that needs to be pushed in to open the shark bite is very small and hard to push. Second, every time I pull the tube out, I find the tube scratched and I need to cut a bit of it before installing it back (to ensure water tightness as well as a secure mechanical grasp). Third, I am afraid the single O-ring will deteriorate overtime and leak. Therefore I feel shark bite connectors are not reliable. If I have a choice, I would choose pressure (compression) fit connectors to shark bite connectors.
I love the convenience of Sharkbites, but similar as you and I’m sure others – I tend to only use them in easily accessible locations. Never had a single problem with any official Sharkbite fittings, but I usually only use them for pipe replacement projects where I need to transition from copper to PEX – and then from that point it’s all poly fittings with cinch clamps on the PEX. At that point the fittings and pipe are much more economical, less prone to failure concerns, and don’t require anything more than a bit of elbow grease with a good crimp tool haha. Biggest thing that spooks me with soldering is the use of fire. I know any master plumber can solder a fitting in the most absurd and wood filled locations, but I’d argue PEX with crimp fittings is a pretty darn good compromise
I would only use shark bites if they were in easily accessible areas. I bumped into one on my water heater and it started leaking. I had to play with it and the pipe to finally get to stop. They work well and are a time saver but the pipes have to be cut and cleaned properly. This is not something you just slap on pipes.
A little insider information. National plumbing unions actually hold their own events around the country. They would give out literature and ask plumbers to talk trash about shark bite fittings, out of fear that they were just too easy to use and would cost them jobs. In reality, the everyman was already soldering and costing them jobs. But these unions aren’t bright enough to think that so many handyman types can actually solder too.
I just recently replaced a sharbite fitting that started to leak because the collar had completely vanished. It was a bit challenging to remove, but I eventually figured how to do it with a credit card wrapped around the pipe. Still, pretty difficult and worrying that pipes will start to leak like this. I wouldn’t install them in a place where I can’t see them and occasionally inspect.
I’ve had fittings in for at least 15 years and have never had a leak without it being put on wrongly. I’ve been using them ever since and have probably gone through over a hundred in odd jobs and my own residence and they have held up silently without any fanfare. I’ve seen more leaks out of copper fittings that were poorly soldered or loose compression valves then with a shark bite
I used about 15 or so under my house 6+ years ago without a single failure, just install them correctly. I used them on my old house too. I think the “they leak” comes from plumbers who don’t want the average Joe to be able to repair anything and threaten his inflated paycheck. ALSO the “price” downfall is still NOTHING compared to a plumber in my area its 200$+ an hour just to show up.
We used PEX pipe and Sharkbite fittings when we gave up on a hot water leak in the slab foundation and rerouted to hot water through the attic. It’s been working for many years now without incident. It is recommended that you don’t use Sharkbites in the attic as leaks will cause a lot of damage. Also, the freezing of water in the pipes could push the Sharkbites off. It’s best to leave them in an accessible place in case they do fail. With PEX, it’s actually quite easy to run PEX in the attic without connections because it’s flexible like a hose. Just don’t bend it too sharply. If you use PEX, that lowers how many joints you need. As for cost, we didn’t have to buy or rent a torch and other equipment for soldering pipes or special crimpers for PEX which are quite expensive. You also need experience with soldering or the joint will likely fail. I’d say that if you added up the cost of the extra equipment or having a professional do it, we saved a TON of money just by using PEX pipe and Sharkbites. I don’t think it would be proper or economical for professionals to use Sharkbites for permanent installations as it would be more economical for them to invest in the proper equipment and the purchasing of fittings in bulk. Sharkbites did save the day for us not that long ago. We had a bad leak behind the wall in an unused shower. The shower also had a leaky floor pan. The entire shower needed a full overhaul to be able to use. I made the decision to just go ahead and bust through the tile wall and cap the pipe with a Sharkbite cap.
I have used quite a few Shark Bite fittings over the past few years doing upgrades on old pipes where I was adding PEX and leaving some copper or PVC in place. My favorite feature is the ability to remove the fitting if needed. I have had two fail on me. One was due to the fitting getting damaged during installation, they can be pretty fragile if dropped or banged on the wrong spot. The other was just a stupid mistake I made when I was first starting with shark bite fittings and didn’t push it on the pipe all the way.
shark bites are great, never ever ever had an issue with them, 99% of the time, it’s installed improperly which is kind of shocking since all you need to do is make sure to bottom out….i guess people are just dumb lol. The only reason I only use them in open areas like basement or just not inside walls or ceilings is that, regardless how good something is, these will wear out, just like how soldered joints start leaking, nothing ever lasts forever, so I’d prefer to use that where it’s easily serviceable. Shark bites hands down are just fine if installed properly, never the product, it’s always the installer’s fault when it comes to shark bites btw, you’re WRONG, propex joints will last longer than soldered joints…
Personally I would rather stick to copper soldered properly that can last hundreds of years. Not into the sharkbite/orings or Pex/plastic longevity wise. The way I look at it as it may not give me trouble in the short term 25/50 years I see no reason to hand trouble down the road to anyone else. Copper done properly is allot of effort but worth it for me and for other generations. I believe Pex has a nominal life of 50 to 100 years while Copper M has a 300 year life expectancy.
I have an honest 132 psi of water pressure at my house. Having moved from a home on a well that had very little pressure I never could make myself reduce my great pressure any. Needless to say, my house gives every fitting a hard test immediately when the house water line is pressurized! Having said that I think I can give a good review of these fittings. The big test came about 11 years ago when I installed a water softener in my house. My house is really big (I have 5 kids) so there are several long runs and I have only used schedule L copper on pressurized side and PVC on drain the drain side. It got late in the day and I was getting really tired by the time I began sweating lines. Unfortunately, it seemed impossible to get every bit of moisture out of the lines quickly. The result was a constant battle to get rid of the moisture inside the lines and the usually easy job of soldering the fittings got super aggravating! My helper that evening suggested I just go buy shark bite fittings. I told him that I have a LOT of pressure and I couldn’t see them working in my situation. But, already being worn out and aggravated, I decided to humor him and then call it a day and finish the next day. So I ran to Home Depot and grabbed some shark bite fittings. This work was in my basement that has 9’ ceiling height (but not finished) so we needed a small ladder for everything. As things go, somehow we neglected to properly secure all of the pipe overhead before I turned on the water. ☹️ Needless to say, as soon as the weight of the water got in the line the 1 (temporary) old hanger holding up a 37’ run failed and down comes my new copper lines with all that pressure in them!
Huh, clicked on this because I’m sick and bored, but you actually helped me fix my recurring leaks 🙂 (Well, we’ll see with time, but it appears so for now) I knew the landlord did the most recent plumbing repairs himself, and lo and behold, they’re sharkbite fittings, and judging by the fact that I was able to jam them another 1/2″ together, he didn’t lock the pipe further than the O-ring, as you described. What a quick fix for something the landlord has been refusing to look at for years!
Thanks for the article! I’m planning to add an evo full house water filtration system in my garage from my main so I’m wondering if using either copper with sharkbite or pex with sharkbite would be okay for this. I have a plumber run copper into the garage which is only about 3 feet from the main, and then I would install the ball valves and connections to the filter myself. Let me know your thoughts, thx!
Did you mention that SB fittings can be removed & reused? They have a neat tool for that. I’m a plumbing engineer (plumbers have manual skills; engineers are all thumbs) doing a lot of forensic work on failed plumbing systems. I haven’t seen any problems with SB. I used SB on my own install of a water softener, because like everyone else I feel more comfortable with a new idea hanging OUTside the drywall. But no problems with the fittings after 3 years. I’d stick it in the wall. SB is a variant of the “coupling movement”, where pipe joinery has become crucial in labor savings. Plumbers can charge up to $100 per hour. You can buy a lot of couplings for that. The O-ring: that’s another feature that’s been around for at least a century, and I think it can be reliable. The problem is where the coupling factory buys the O-ring: if the vendor cheats on the materials, SB-etc won’t know until there are massive field failures. Look up “dog food deaths” to see what happens if someone is sloppy in procurement.
I don’t like using Sharkbites in walls either, but they are nice to have for quick repairs. I always keep a couple pieces of 6″ pipe with Sharkbites at each end. If a pipe fails while I’m at work my son can quickly cut off a bad section and put a pre made section on fast. When I get home I can do a more permanent repair.
Sharkbite fittings are for guys THAT CAN’T SWEAT A COPPER JOINT! I have been using all copper for water lines for many years. Type M, for indoor water lines, type L, for underground water lines. Look at the difference in the costs. Homedepot: 1/2 ” copper 90 – $1.05. 1/2 ” sharkbite 90 – $11.74. Wow, are you kidding? I have even heard, some ( plumbers ) use pex, because they can’t sweat a copper joint.
I wish SB would put the “White Insert” in the package seperated from the fitting. You have to make sure you get the white insert IN the pipe when installing the SB without damaging the insert. I always CAREFULLY remove the white insert from the SB and put it in the pipe before installing it inside the SB. I damaged the insert once and had to go get another SB before I could finish the repair.
Thanks for the article. I had a 1/2 inch poly split and fortunately I was home and heard the water leak and shut off the main valve to stop the flow. Most of my house was copper fittings however the previous owner installed a basement bathroom and used the 1/2 inch poly with crimped fittings and 3 feet from the copper/poly take off it failed and no shutoff between the main cold water pipe and the bathroom. I have done copper soldering but never used poly. I watched your article went an bought shark bite ball valve, short poly pipe, and shark bite connector and with 30 minutes I had the water back on. I am going back to buy another set of shark bite fittings in case one of those poly pipes fails again.
I’ve used them when the local hardware didn’t have anything but shark bite for a particular need I had. I installed them over 7 years ago and they are still going strong. They are not my first choice however. If I’m repairing or installing pex which is my first choice I use a crimp ring and a Ryobi crimper (up to 1 inch). Its so much less expensive and nearly as quick.
For the first cons, it may not be more costly since the average homeowner can install sharkbite fittings because of the simplicity and lack of tools dangerous and costly tools needed. So you save money on a plumber. Also, unless you use the cheapest copper piping, it’s only 4.5 times more costly for the 90-degree fittings and is the same price for shut-off valves.
Over the years I’ve used them and liked them. I haven’t personally had any incident with them. They are fast and easy with less mess. The other worry about soldering pipes is setting something on fire. With your water turned off I hope you have a large bucket of water nearby. No worries with SharkBites.