Oil-based stains are the best for staining wood in cold weather, as they do not rely on evaporation to dry out. They perform better than water and gel varieties as they do not rely on evaporation to dry out. The main difference between exterior and interior wood stains is that exterior products are designed to withstand the weather, such as snow, wind, strong sun, and heavy rains.
Spring is the perfect time to refresh and protect outdoor woodwork from winter’s damage, and applying exterior stain is an excellent way to do so. Wood naturally absorbs water, which is abundant in the winter and can wreak havoc on your siding, so wood needs to be properly sealed with a stain. To ensure the highest quality results when applying exterior wood stain, follow these steps and helpful tips from Sherwin-Williams stain experts.
Water-based wood stains need to be kept at temperatures above 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Although many manufacturers formulate these products to withstand an accidental freeze and thawing, too many freeze-thaw cycles will cause them to degrade. If the weather sinks to freezing level before a penetrating stain dries up, then it will not penetrate as required, preventing the stain from coloring your wood.
To protect wood from weather, you can also remove snow from it. Even if you apply a stain or sealant, you still need to regularly remove snow. Staining your deck will protect it from low temperatures and weather year-round. To keep your deck protected, use a water-based stain, as cold temps can mess up the cure and cause premature failure.
In summary, oil-based stains are the best choice for staining wood in cold weather, as they provide a balance between protection from the elements and a beautiful appearance.
📹 Don’t Use the Wrong Outdoor Wood and Finish for Your Project
You want your outdoor woodworking projects to last as long as possible. Using the right wood and finish for outdoor projects is …
What is more weather resistant stain or paint?
Paints are a strong contender for outdoor applications due to their robust protection against harsh weather conditions. They leave a protective layer on wood, preventing moisture damage and warping. High-quality latex paint offers exceptional durability and UV resistance, ensuring vibrant colors last longer. Preparing before painting by removing old finish and applying primer can reduce the risk of peeling and ensuring a long-lasting finish.
What temperature is too cold for outdoor stain?
To ensure the longevity of your deck staining, it is essential to avoid harsh weather conditions. Low temperatures can prolong the drying time, so it is recommended to wait for temperatures above 50 degrees Fahrenheit in spring or fall and check for freezing temperatures. Cold temperatures can hinder the curing process, as they may not penetrate the wood and compromise the adhesion process. Direct sunlight can cause the stain to flash dry, preventing proper penetration and causing uneven, blotchy appearance.
Save the hard work for a cloudy day and enjoy your deck on a bright sunny day. High humidity and rain can also affect the staining process. While humidity doesn’t necessarily ruin staining efforts, higher humidity can prolong the drying time. Additionally, staining in the rain can also affect the stain’s effectiveness. To avoid washing the stain away, wait for a day with no rain in the forecast for the next 24 hours.
How long does an exterior stain last?
The longevity of stain types varies considerably. Clear and transparent stains necessitate annual touch-ups, while semi-transparent stains have a lifespan of 2-3 years, semi-solid stains 2-4 years, and solid stains on decks may last 5-7 years.
Can stain be left out in winter?
Sealants and stains should be stored in a climate-controlled location, avoiding temperatures below 32 degrees Fahrenheit. Outdoor sheds and areas with cold temperatures can reduce their shelf life, so it’s better to store them indoors. Most US winter temperatures drop below freezing occasionally, so storing stains in outdoor areas could be detrimental. Instead, find a suitable location indoors to prevent freezing and thawing.
What temperature does wood stain dry at?
Staining decks should be done between 50 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit, starting early in the day to avoid splotchy, uneven finishes. Complete staining when humidity is low, especially for water-based stain, to reduce drying time. Proper airflow is essential for drying and reducing fumes. If it rains right after staining, rainwater will soften the stain, resulting in a bubbly, whitish, or splotchy finish. However, many deck stains can handle a light rain shower 12 hours after application.
If problems arise, lightly sand out rain spots and add a light layer of stain to even it out. If damage is widespread, remove the stain, sand, and restain the surface for optimal results. Check the stain manufacturer’s instructions on waiting time before fixing this issue.
How long does an outdoor stain last?
Deck stain is essential for maintaining a deck’s surface, as it can withstand harsh weather conditions like sun, rain, and snow. The best stains should last 3-5 years when applied correctly. The amount of stain needed depends on the size of the deck, with 175 square feet requiring no more than one gallon, while 500 square feet require two gallons for full coverage. To clean a deck before staining, follow these simple steps:
- Clean the deck thoroughly, ensuring it is free of dirt and residue.
- Apply a coat of stain or paint to the deck, ensuring it is even and even.
- Allow the stain to dry completely before applying it to ensure a smooth and long-lasting finish.
In summary, deck stain is a crucial component for maintaining a deck’s surface and ensuring its longevity.
How long does exterior stain take to dry?
The drying time for oil-based stains is a minimum of 12 hours before exposure to moisture or rain, whereas water-based stains can become wet within a couple of hours and require 24 to 72 hours for complete curing. The use of water-based stains is more straightforward in terms of cleaning, as they can be removed with soap and water. Additionally, they are more expensive and require minimal maintenance, which makes them more environmentally friendly due to their low levels of volatile organic compounds.
What happens if you stain wood in cold weather?
The ideal temperature range for semi-transparent and solid stains is between 50-90 degrees Fahrenheit. Too cold or too hot can cause spotty results and make the process cumbersome. Solid stains, similar to paints, have a wider range of application, typically down to 35 degrees Fahrenheit. Semi-transparent stains have a tighter window and should fall within the 50-90 degree range. It is important to be aware of temperature drops at night, as they can affect the cured stain’s effectiveness.
This is particularly important in Colorado, where quick temperature swings can affect the application process. Therefore, it is crucial for the painter to be aware of the temperature drop at night to ensure proper cured stain application.
How long does it take a stain to dry in cold weather?
Wood staining in cold weather is best done with oil-based stains, which do not require evaporation to dry out and can perform in temperatures as low as 35 degrees Fahrenheit. These stains take longer to dry, potentially up to 48 hours. Delayed curing is the most common cause of wood stain problems, affecting project time and not the finished product. However, temperature-induced complications can harm the project’s quality, particularly if temperatures drop below freezing. If the weather sinks to freezing level before a penetrating stain dries up, it will not penetrate as required, preventing the project from taking on the desired wood stain color.
Is wood stain still good if it freezes?
Water-based products, such as General Finishes High Performance Water Base Topcoat, may not freeze as they do not affect color. However, some dyes may coagulate. It is advised not to let water-based finishes freeze, as they may not freeze due to solvents or plasticizers added. To check the integrity of frozen oil-based products, stir them and mix well to reincorporate additives. If the product is frozen and unusable, contact the retailer for a replacement.
Amazon resellers can easily take the product back if concerns arise. General Finishes monitors weather conditions before shipping to avoid freezing, but cannot control what happens when the shipment arrives at its destination.
What stain is best for cold weather?
To prevent wood staining errors from unfavorable temperatures, stain wood in a temperature-controlled indoor area and choose a stain that works best with your staining date temperature. Oil-based stains are better in colder weather than other types. Warm the wood stain before using it by bringing it inside or dipping it in warm water. Identifying the optimal temperature for staining wood outside is not difficult, and taking action to lessen the effect of certain temperatures on wood stains can help. If you feel overwhelmed, consider seeking a full-service painting contractor who offers pressure washing, interior and exterior painting, and more. Request a free price quote by sending a message.
📹 The Best RV Winter Setup: How to RV in Winter and the Gear That Will Keep You Cozy Warm!
Stuff we talked about in this video! Some links are affiliate links meaning we earn a small commission if you make a purchase.
▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next – 99% of Beginners Don’t Know These 5 Mistakes Ruin Wood – youtu.be/xA8tcPICLiE 🛠Tools and Products in this article: Cabot Australian Timber Oil – amzn.to/3L7U6uV Osmo UV Protection – amzn.to/3ZJ1GQY General Finishes Outdoor Oil – amzn.to/3SWdU6x Cabot Clear Finish – amzn.to/3ZVemnT Spar Urethane – amzn.to/3F7oB05 Homeright Finish Max Sprayer – amzn.to/3L6oC8s Titebond 3 Wood Glue for Exterior Use – amzn.to/3YC7bj3 Epoxy for Feet Bottoms – amzn.to/41QRfN3 Other Tools/Equipment I’m Asked About Often: Table Saw – amzn.to/3IoKqsZ Table Saw Blade I’m Using – shrsl.com/3xv5i Miter Saw – amzn.to/41hbJy4 Tripod for Phone – amzn.to/3E3kWA9 Phone Holder for Tripod – amzn.to/3E1E6GG The shirt I’m Wearing – shieldsofstrength.com/1-corinthians-13-shirt/ Boots I’m Wear – amzn.to/3HkUl3y Toolbox in Background – homedepot.sjv.io/x9B2xy Tool Wall over Miter Station – amzn.to/3ZgWq7B Digital YouTube Sign – amzn.to/3GL2a2e Camera Gear I Use – kit.co/731Woodworks/camera-gear-i-use Computer Equipment I Use for Editing – kit.co/731Woodworks/731-woodworks-computer-equipment Other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: 731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe the 731 Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans:
Number one thing to do is to keep it out of the sun. Any finish, any wood will get gray and start rotting with enough sunshine if you don’t stay on top if it every year, maybe two. As they said at a Woodcraft class I went to on the subject: “Sunshine always wins”. It’s hard to beat a nuclear fireball only 93 million miles away.
Wood outdoor furniture simply requires some maintenance. throughout the year. We always bring our patio furniture up closer to the house for the winter so it won’t get as badly hammered by the sun and snow. I don’t like covering outdoor furniture because I think it’s a recipe for mildew. I always wonder if this is a problem for people who have their furniture shrink wrapped. In the Spring, the furniture has to get thoroughly washed down – especially if matted leaves sat on it. I use a outdoor furniture cleaning concentrate, a garden hose sprayer, and a soft non-scratching brush designed to wash cars. And like you said, the finish may need to be touched up every two or three years.
IF you want something to last Ipe is king. It’s not cheap at all. I built a holder for my Big Green Egg out of Ipe. Based on the fact it is as close to fireproof of a wood as you can buy and it is what they used for the decking at Niagara Falls the need to replace it in my lifetime is zero. You will burn up the bits to counter sink the screw holes and only use stainless steel fasteners.
Awesome article, I just built a small patio table, mostly to keep a glass or two on it. I used White Oak, and I used total boat marine finish figuring that if it can protect a boat from the elements it can protect my table. I wanted the project to be quick so I used hairpin legs just so I did not have to think of the joinery too much and even if the wood moves all of the legs are attached to only 1 board each. But I am thinking of replacing my construction lumber table that I built a couple of years ago, since the top of it is starting to rot. Or has developed enough rot to be concerned. I will probably replicate my smaller table since it seems to be okay. It just went through it’s first shower and it seemed like the top was pretty water resistant. Though I will have to check out the timber oil.
Great article. Very informative. However…..Yeah there’s always that guy. I just brush finished an Adirondack Chair I made with Cabots Australian Timber oil that you recommended and I can say it came out terrible. Blotchy, hazed over, impossible to flow out brush strokes and takes at least 5 days or more to dry in ideal conditions. I’m not a finishing expert but I not necessarily a novice either. I’m kicking myself because I didn’t just take a little extra time and spray the pieces. I think that’s what you said you did in the article for your deck furniture. Just emphasize that to people. If you expect to brush finish on more complicated projects with this stuff you will be highly disappointed and frustrated. Thanks Bob
I just used Helmsman for the 1st time. Your right 5 coats and bubbles (fish eyes) Never had a issue in all my 50 yrs of using polly or a clear coat. I dont think i will ever use it again. I sanded between coats as usual. Got tired of it and used one coat of quick dry polly and woo lah. Perfect. I put it on thick, thin and even mixed it with mineral spirits. I don’t understand why it wouldn’t cover. I even call Minwax. Ok im done venting. 😅
Hey Brother. I thought I might want to give you article ideas. How a article comparing the ease of application, and final results of finished product on these finishes that you mentioned in this article (I wouldn’t bother with afore mentioned, inferior product, because if you didn’t like it, I don’t see anyone else would, unless, of course, they can get it for almost free.) I’m talking your simple, down sized night stand/drink-holding table you’d see placed beside chairs or loveseats on a deck. 1 for each of those finishes would be great. I personally, really like the Cabot Finishes for door use. They look awesome on pick nick tables and any pool side furniture pieces.
My suggestion treatment for any projects that either goes damp/moist space or outdoors. use pine tar, it’s a historically proven that it will last, even in underground. and almost maintenance free too, just re-apply every 10-15 years. if you want wood to last even longer burn it (shou sugi ban) before using pine tar. well that is if you can find pine tar.
Not a big fan of paint. Maybe I’ve not used the right product but paint doesn’t seem to weather well. It can look and feel chalky and then it seems to hold moisture which promotes insect infestation and rot. Oil may not be perfect but it does shed the water pretty well and it is easy to touch up when you decide to do it.
Wood finish is very important but what matters more is actual type of wood you use. Cedar or Oak would last much longer then cheappo pine construction wood. Also what matters most is actual design. I live in Ireland where there are more rainy then sunny days through the year and there is ton on moisture in the air. I have build some nice wood planters and cured them with expensive Osmo which is special oil to prevent wood from molds and helps to protect wood. It didn;t. My designs are nice but kept water on wood pieces. What you need to do is to design your pieces under slight angles to make sure rain water quickly slides down and there is nothing what prevents water to stay on the wood. Once you have water droplets on wood it will start rotting soon and create black mold. 🙁 Now i have to re-do all my pieces to give top parts a slight angle to make sure water doesn;t stay on them. Also pressure treated wood while is better than regular wood with no treatment, also needs to get proper finish. In most cases pressure treated wood is left outside for a weeks/months and even you don; see it it’s already infected with molds.
I’m confused. I’m brand new to wood working and want to build some outdoor furniture. I am building extras to sell so that my furniture will be paid for. Everyone is telling me to use treated wood for outdoor furniture, but it has to sit for 6 months before I can do anything with it. You say not to use treated wood, which would be far simpler and cheaper. So, I’m confused. I’m afraid the benches I just made are going turn into a mangled mess once they dry out… any help “wood” be appreciated! Thanks!
Howdy Mr. 731… I just watched this article again. Noticed that you didn’t used to have a patio cover. Did you build that yourself? Where’s the article? As for the Spar Urethane….Don’t use a brush unless it’s just a small project. Use some thinner and that Home Max. Works great. I’d like to see ya do a more in depth article on using the outdoor stains and finish. Good article Sir.
I’ll second that endorsement for Cabot penetrating oils. I used them on a built-in bench and a patio table set here in Ohio. Ouside and uncovered for two years so far, and they look great. I thought I would have to touch up this spring, but they still look like the day I finished them. Plus you can choose a ton of colors, and further customize the look with various levels of opacity. I’ll use these from now on.
How ironic. Cabot’s Australian timber oil isn’t available in Australia. Yes, you can import it from the US but I’ve never seen it here and it’s not mentioned on the Cabot’s Australian site. Maybe calling it “Australian” in the US makes people think it’s somehow tough? Dunno. Looks good though. Wish we could get it here.
Great article as always question on the sprayer I bought one I’m just about positive it’s the same one and while staining our deck last summer I kept experiencing the deck stain clogging the small tip I believe it’s the blue tip or whatever color tip is required and had to keep stopping to clean it out I don’t believe temperature was an issue it was very high 90s maybe like 97 degrees in full sun thanks for any advice also I did not use anything but the stain
I am getting ready to clean and seal outdoor cedar posts on my deck. I built a new house and have great cedar posts that I want to protect but first I need to clean and degrease. I will get some of that cabot clear coat but would you have any recommendations on an outdoor wood cleaner / degreaser that I can use to scrub these large posts and get them ready for clear coat?? Thank you
Mr. Matt Outlaw, Sir I’ve been following you for about 3 years now. It’s been awesome to see you evolve the website. I love how your wife is so involved as well. your not shy to proclaim your faith in christ and you reflect his character in the way you conduct yourself. So just know 731 is a household name in my home lol. from out here in san diego we wish you all the best from my family to yours. Praise God always!
Thanks for joining us in the cold!❄️ We usually chase 70 degrees but this winter have hunkered down in the cold. Want a Discount? Were always looking for ways to pass savings on to you and have negotiated discounts on RV skirting and The Best heated water hoses for you! Check them out on our deals page. bit.ly/MortonDeals Also, check out the full list of products we use in the article description! Stay Warm! ☃️
This is our 1st year wintering in our Rv and we are so thankful for your suggestions. We actually loved the Custom RV skirting so much (we don’t care for the look of the snap version) that we will be traveling to Rapid City, the 1st week in Nov, from Eastern Washington to get ours custom made along with the Thermaslides. Custom Skirting LLC is wonderful to work with and we get to stay in their RV park for the week, while they do the measurements, for free. I will recommend them to all RV’ers. They own the patent for this website lock system since its their idea, so putting South Dakota on our ‘must see’ list was a bonus. Thank you so much for the recommendation and all the very useful and needed tips on how to stay warm and comfy. Love your website!
As always, an incredibly thorough and professional presentation about a very important RVing topic! One question… On that gorgeous aerial shot of your RV completely covered in snow with the steps not yet cleared off and no footprints… Did Tom actually stick his arm out the window to launch the drone?! We can just picture that! 😂
Great article! You guys have the best produced RV articles. I wish you would do more. While spending the winter in Texas a couple years ago our biggest problem was the slide outs. We were near Port Aransas so we did not have freezing temps but it was very windy. The cables from the slides enter openings directly into the trailer. We used gorilla tape around the openings to seal them off and rolled up towels on the inside to seal around the slide. Pool noodles or pipe insulation works on the sides but the area on top was too large. We did purchase a dehumidifier which helped tremendously with moisture. It helps to run your exhaust fan while showering and keep the bathroom door closed so that humidity doesn’t enter the remainder of the RV. Do most of your cooking in a crock pot or pressure cooker to reduce moisture. Stay safe!
Awesome article! As my wife and I live full time in our FW and we are currently in Up-State New York, your presentation of the cold weather prep was spot on. We have gone so far as to place clear plastic on the window to reduce warm air loss. Yes, we leave two small windows uncovered so that we can get good airflow. And our egress windows remain unimpeded. We have had our “Sinky Slinky freeze before. To help reduce that problem, we use a moving blanket to cover the outside release valve. Seems to help. Once again, great article. Will continue to view your website.
Thanks for the tips. My wife and I are currently looking at travel trailers (Never owned one). It will be used primarily in the Northwoods. We plan to keep it on our property up there. It’s completely off grid. I understand there will be some challenges in regards to cold weather camping however I am running into issues trying to find a brand that will be more suitable for colder weather. Most salesmen we have spoken to do not have much to say in regards to four season trailers. If anyone has reputable brands they could recommend, please let me know. Heading over to a place to look at a Cherokee Grey Wolf tomorrow morning. Thanks!!!
I have insulated tarps to run all around my RV and i’m planning on routing the exhaust from my furnace under the under penning so that i don’t have to to run another electrical connection. my furnace puts out more heat outside than it does in the RV and while you can’t just route the exhaust under the RV you can pipe it through another pipe and use the emitted heat from the furnace to keep the under trailer area warm and dry. I may develop a kit that you can connect to utilize that heat without getting the propane exhaust fumes bleeding back through into your RV. Just makes no sense to let that heat just get blown out into the winter air, might as well utilize it
I am new to your website we are the Kincaid‘s family and we have just but our first 2021/5 wheel RV and I have been searching articles for winter living and tips and I absolutely love your post thank you for such wonderful info and thank you for letting us know where to get the skirting we are going to try to order ours now so we can have it before the winter months thank you again sincerely the Kincaid family full-time RV living 😇
Quick question … is the small tabletop dehumidifier you have sufficient for your 5th wheel or do you use two? I’ve seen mixed comments about them. Our camper is smaller than yours, but we definitely get the condensation on the windows during the winter months so we are hoping this helps dry things up. Great article! Can’t wait until we can one day be full time RVers!
I love your website and adore you both but I feel like your information about “4 seasons” rated campers is misguided. The entire “4 seasons” slogan is a marketing sales pitch sold by RV manufacturers and means different things to each of them. Especially the dual pane window issue that you mention early in this article as being “very good for insulation” doesn’t actually provide much R value. Dual pane RV windows DON’T actually provide much in the way of insulation.
Our family is considering full time rving. We are only planning to travel when we want, as we will mostly be stationary because we pastor a church and have kids in school. Our biggest worry about taking the leap is the water and sewer hook-ups in winter. This definitely helped answer most of our questions ❤
I’d seen article of a guy in a class a that ran a separate 15 amp circuit, and used an extension cord to hook into the pedestal to run a space heater in his rig. Looks like your setup might be a bit better. Do you have the heater under the trailer on a timer, or just leave it on low as the weather cools off?
I really appreciate the pillow insulation for roof vents and heating with the on board propane heater because of the vents designed to help keep the tanks heated. I have been using just electric heaters because the on board heater is so noisy and produces an insane amount of moisture inside the RV. We are too late to make the skirting happen for this next deep freeze but I will have them on the way ASAP. Cheers!
Very well done article. You mention several times about an RV being “4 Season ‘certified’ ” but I can’t find any reference / specifications that a manufacturer has to meet in order to have a “certification”. I see references on manufacturer websites about being “4 season” or “4 season capable” but nothing that includes the term of being “certified” for 4 seasons.
I think you guys make great informational articles but why do you both choose to talk that way. There are a lot of men making articles that are doing this right now. What is up with that? It’s not necessary to pause between every four words. It’s like the YouYubers that say “actually” in every second sentence! Not trying to be negative Nancy here, because you have great articles!