The E-ZPass transponder is an electronic toll collection system that allows users to pay tolls on toll bridges, roads, and tunnels across 17 US states. It requires a transponder, a prepaid account, and a credit card or cash to be used. The transponder must be mounted to the vehicle as prescribed by the agency who issued the transponder, usually to the top of the vehicle.
Transponders make it easier for tolling agencies to charge the correct toll to the vehicle. If your vehicle has features such as two axles, a maximum gross weight of 7,000 pounds, and single rear tires, a license plate transponder may be necessary to avoid image tolls. To install and maintain your new E-ZPass transponder, follow these instructions:
- Press the tag to your windshield about one inch to the right of the center support of the rearview mirror and one inch below the top edge of the windshield.
- Get the front plate version or mount the windshield version behind the infotainment screen near the base.
- You may use your EZ Pass in any car. There are two guidelines: add the car’s license plate plus make/model to your account when arriving.
State law requires a transponder to be in the vehicle or valid license plates properly mounted to the vehicle. For car transponders, it is not necessary but should be done. If the transponder doesn’t read, they can still do it.
In summary, the E-ZPass transponder is an essential component for toll payment systems across 17 US states. It requires a transponder, prepaid account, and a valid license plate to be installed on the vehicle.
📹 All About FasTrak and Transponders
FasTrak® is a prepaid tolling account that allows accountholders to pay tolls electronically on every tolled bridge, lane and road in …
Can I use my I-PASS transponder in a rental car?
I-PASS transponders can be used in rental vehicles, so it’s important to add the rental plate and start and end dates to your IPASS account before driving. The I-PASS On Demand team offers in-person assistance with I-PASS account, Pay By Plate service, and invoice questions. You can learn more about the Official Illinois Tollway App, pick up a new I-PASS Sticker Tag, or qualify for I-PASS Assist at an event.
To close your I-PASS account, you can visit a Customer Service Center or mail, sending your transponder wrapped in foil with a letter requesting the account be closed. I-PASS accounts remain in Pending to Close status for up to 30 days, after which your account will be officially closed.
Can you use a transponder in multiple vehicles?
It is possible to transfer Hardcase FasTrak transponders between vehicles, but it is of the utmost importance to list each vehicle’s license plate on the account in order to prevent any violations.
Where is the best place to put a transponder?
The sticker transponder should be placed in the lower left or right corner of the windshield or behind the rearview mirror. It is imperative that the device be left undisturbed once installed, as any attempt at relocation or modification will inevitably result in its destruction and subsequent loss of functionality. It is recommended that users update their accounts, register all vehicle license plates, and log in to access their accounts.
Can transponder sit on the dashboard?
Toll transponders, also known as toll tags, electronic toll passes, or E-ZPass, are devices that allow toll authorities to scan vehicles. They typically sit on dashboards or windshields, but can also be attached to license plates or roofs for those with blocked windshields. Toll passes work with electronic toll collection systems, consisting of transmitters, scanners, and cameras. Lasers scan for oncoming traffic, alerting other tools when a truck approaches the tolling point. Readers scan for transponders, which send radio transmissions. Cameras on both sides of the checkpoint capture front and back plates, and ground sensors count the number of axels in the vehicle.
Can I use my i pass transponder in another car?
The speaker posits that utilizing a transponder in a registered vehicle that is not accessible to others may result in potential legal ramifications, including possible arrest.
Where is the best place to put the E-ZPass?
The E-ZPass Tag should be positioned with the label facing the driver and the arrows pointing up. It should be placed in the upper windshield area, one inch to the right of the center support of the rearview mirror and one inch below the tinted section.
Where is a transponder required?
The Federal Aviation Administration (FAA) has established strict regulations for air travel safety, including strict requirements on transponders. Transponders are electronic devices that transmit a signal in response to a specific type of incoming signal, known as an interrogation. In aviation, transponders are used to transmit information about an aircraft’s altitude, speed, and identification to Air Traffic Control (ATC) radar systems. In Class A, B, and C airspace, all aircraft must be equipped with an operable Mode C transponder, while in Class D airspace, no transponder is required unless specified by ATC.
How to put E-ZPass in window?
The second step requires the item to be positioned at a distance of at least one inch to the right of the mirror.
What is the difference between sticker and switchable transponders?
To use The Toll Roads, FasTrak accountholders must temporarily add the vehicle’s license plate number to their account before driving. For sticker transponders, they cannot be moved between vehicles. License plate recognition will collect tolls via the account. Tolls incurred by rental vehicles can be paid at TheTollRoads. com, The Toll Roads app, or through the rental company. Rental car companies offer convenient payment methods through their rental agreements. Before driving a rental car on The Toll Roads, inquire about their toll and fee processing process.
How do switchable transponders work?
The FasTrak Flex switchable transponder is a hardcase mounted to the windshield of a vehicle, allowing it to be moved between vehicles. It features a three-position switch that displays the number of people in the vehicle, relaying this information to roadside equipment. This transponder can be used to pay tolls when driving alone or as a qualified carpool. Headlamp transponders may not work with vehicles with metalized windshields, but some agencies offer special transponders. Motorcycle transponders are sticker transponders designed specifically for motorcycles, mounted to the headlamp lens or cover.
Do I need a switchable hardcase transponder?
It is recommended that FasTrak transponders be maintained for those seeking to benefit from carpool discounts on designated express lanes in California. It is possible to mount both a sticker transponder and a switchable transponder on the same windshield simultaneously.
📹 Van driver shows two-second trick used by thieves to break into Ford Transits
A van driver’s video showing the two-second trick being used by thieves to break into brand new Ford Transits has been viewed …
Why doesn’t your “The Toll Roads” published statistics include statement of how many obviously errant motorists entered the system? A way of realizing an errant entry is by recognizing motorists who twice passes a single toll plaza in opposite directions within the time reasonably required to reverse directions utilizing the first available road exit/entry pair.
They sent me two transponders one for the inside of the car and one for the outside. Please update these instructions. Neither transponder is labeled so the uses has no idea which is which. Please get your act together and make a article that actually follows the product your are sending out to your customers.
Even the errant first time visitor must pay the toll to escape. I almost never drive on the 91 freeway. The sad circumstance of attending a funeral put me on the 91 and I would want to exit on the Gypsum Canyon exit,,,,, which is just a little bit past the exit for the 241 toll-road. Stupid-me got on the 241 exit from which there is no exit. It’s easy for The-Toll-Roads to review my 9 minute logged adventure on their roads and realize my passage wasn’t for a through-trip. It’s a minimum 7.4 miles round trip past their Windy-Ridge-Toll-Plazas to get turned around. There’s no forgiveness for obviously errant or stupid drivers.
The only way to improve your security is to first know your weak points. It’s disconcerting to think that Ford hasn’t taken any steps toward that end. And leaves the weak points intact for exploitation by thieves. Any lock will keep honest people honest. But we need locks that will at least make it difficult for the dishonest.
My Renault Trafic got broken into in a similar way. The thieves popped the black handle off my back door with a screw driver exposing the mechanism inside the door. Pulled on this and ALL the doors opened up via the central locking – it even turned the alarm off ffs. All the van manufacturers know their locks are shit and easily broken into. I bought SLAM locks for the back and side door and DEADLOCKS for the two front doors. It cost a bit of ££££’s but it’s well worth it in the long run.
You would have hoped that security design flaws like these would have been eradicated by now, the tool used might have progressed from the old screwdriver in the metal skin by the door lock trick but it’s still basic. Slam locks or deadlocks are now as important as insurance and tax if you have a van
Buy a Thatcham full steering wheel lock, it covers the whole wheel & it can’t be removed, a thief would need a grinder & about 60mins to get it off. So they won’t steal it. Don’t buy any other spindly clutch wheel lock, easily removed. I’ve had mine 20yrs & cost £100, now £75. The car locks now are easily hacked in a minute.
There is a skeleton key doing the rounds on the internet that opens most Fords. Something to be aware of. Had my van broken into outside my house with a Policeman living next door who would regularly park his police car outside. No deterant. There are gangs of specialist van thieves that target just builders/tradesman’s vans. Chances are the tools are getting shipped to eastern Europe. When my van was done, I spoke to my police neighbour who told me, off of the record, that the police haven’t got the manpower do anything. If you have a van that contains tools, it is only a matter of time until they do yours. Dead bolt the van and if you can, use a van vault.
I don’t even lock my van. Coz the scum bags are gunna brake in anyway so less damage if you just don’t bother locking. I had 2 guys pull up outside my house a few months ago and you see them go to the back of the van the a bar and thank god he had the brains to try the door first. No damage and nothing stolen.
Ah, legendary Ford locksmiths! Like the “genius” bonnet latch that has an anti-tampering trick. So, sooner or later, when your lock gets dirty or you bump your fender a little bit – the bonnet is locked from the inside! 😀 Had two cars with that problem until I decided no amount of savings is worth dealing with that and spent a little more on some other cheap second hand brand
Ford will do a software upgrade such stops the rear doors opening if the doors are unlocked without a key. The upgrade has been free to our company (200 plus transits) and has been to other smaller firms I have been in contact with. I am informed this is not a well known fact and you would need to ask for the upgrade. We have also fitted mortice style dead locks and van vaults. Not cheap but we haven’t had an incident in 8 months, we were having 3 to 6 per week prior to the upgrade even with the dead locks fitted
I’ve read about 12 comments….if someone wants in your vehicle they’ll get in….Ford makes a good vehicle. I have a 2005 Ford 1/2 ton truck with 170k. No issues…not even a light out, AC works like new…no Check Engine…..no issues. 2000 Excursion V-10, 72K perfect, no issues. New Edge, 10K, loaded (turbo) Wife loves it. (me too)
Typical ford engineering at its finest. It baffles the mind how they spend so much time on changing and “updating” the look of the front end but continue to use highly outdated “security” features. I bet I could go right through the side of the van with 5 minutes and a claw hammer. Get what you can out of it and then go drive anything in the G.M.C. Contractor Series! Its like trading in a sardine can on wheels for a lazyboy that handles great, is super comfortable, powerful, and last forever. Diesel of course. (Soot Life).
I see plenty of smart arse comments below sarcastically thanking him for the demo. Truth is the real sock cuckers already know this stuff, owners never find out till it’s too late. If you don’t already know these techniques you’re either honest or a crap criminal. This vid should help a lot of owners fight back. There should be more information like this, it can do more good than harm.
Sorry I don’t want to offend anyone that is not my intention but why do people insist on buying things and then when this happens then there is a big hoo ha, people have buying power which is a massive thing, if people hit the sales of substandard stuff then they will force manufacturers to fix the problem
Unfortunately I’m in the opposite situation with my van. Had it parked up for a good 5 or 6 months the gone to try and get in it but can’t. It must be different to your 2017 van as mine is 2010 mk7 which is in dead locked by the remote. Tried everything that is obvious to try. Even 2 very good lock Smiths can’t get in it. Any tips or tricks would be appreciated
I recently change a Transit Connect drivers door lock only to discover that its almost impossible to grab a pair of pliers and turn the lock back and forth. The lock barrel has a large built-in locking pin preventing this from happening. Also, watch this article very closely, when he claims the turn the lock with his pliers, it doesn’t turn when he claims it does.
lol u are missing a trick bro, they all have the same key. You have one ford key and you can open many fords, you just cant start the engine. Maybe this van is too new, but all the old ford vans, cars share the same key profile apparently. Don’t believe me? Get a ford key from between 2000 – 2010 and try it in a load of different ford cars and vans. Only thing it wont do is get past the immobilizer.
In earlier 80’s BMW’s you were able to slide a blank key into the lock then just slightly push down on the blank key so as the door will open. Now you are into the car,what now,tow it away? Just locating and defeating anti theft measures is time consuming. Not a typical 3 wire hot wire deal. If you ever put your car in service with anyone make sure they have all the keys needed (and the wheel lock) but no more. Don’t send your home keys through the Dealership process. We can copy your keys.
Nothings safe.it’s pretty much the same way they get into houses with plastic doors.my neighbour got his brand new 4×4 stolen because he left his keys in the hallway.prized off front part of his handle,snapped his lock with mole grips,opened door,snatched his keys and they were gone in less than 5 mins.alarm was going off and he didn’t even have time to get out of bed before seeing his car driven down the road.used to be a screwdriver back in the 80s.Theives have advanced.Ford were known for poor security locks.I had my Xr3 nicked.Nothing is safe these days.
I could see my keys in the van, but it was locked, so I asked another Ford Transit owner parked near me if he could open mine. At he refused said it would not work but he did in the end. yes is worked, saved me from having to pay for a broken window. Was it just luck or just very poor quality locks ? Don’t know.
Not sure about the modern cars but I saw quite a few get broken into up through the late 90’s and early 2000’s. A large screwdriver, hammer, and vice grips. Jam the screwdriver into the keyhole, smash the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. This drives the screwdriver into the locking mechanism and hard enough to drive the whole assembly free from the sheet metal door. Then just rotate the entire mechanism and pop the lock. Vice grips in case you need more leverage on the screwdriver to rotate it.
Back in the 1980’s you could unlock a Toyota truck with the eraser on the end of a pencil by going into a gap under the door handle. Everything would be gone and zero sign of a break in. Engineering has not really improved much I suppose – then again with a focus on “woke” studies in college no wonder we are where we are.
Ford should be forced to reimburse anyone who suffers a loss because of this. When companies are hit in the wallet, they sit up and take note. In the same way gun manufacturers in 5ge US can be held liable for murders committed using their products, by the same rationale, car and van manufacturers should be held liable for losses directly attributable to their manufacture of insecure vehicles.
Never mind Chryslers or GM etc that only needed a screwdriver to pop the plastic door trim up and open the door, then pop off the plastic ring trim on the steering wheel and drive away, took 30 seconds for them to steal my ex’s car. A kill switch and good security alarm helps I suppose along with a good motion alarm article cam like my neighbor has, anything that walks in front of his car is taped 24/7, he comes running if he hears an alert, I banged my cat litter pan inside the house one night doing the garbage and he was outside a minute later in his drawers asking what that noise was and did I hear it lol.
What the hell is up with Ford, this is just ridiculous… Ford have gone way down hill lately, just look at all the problems with the EcoBoost engine and their denying any responsibility. If I had one and the main dealer told me there was nothing that cam be done I’d be straight down the local dealership and would turn away every potential customer until they did something.. I’d make their life hell the bastards 😉
Other European brands that share body styles also have a issue on the rear handles all you need is a screwdriver and know where to pierce something which disables the central locking and some cases the alarm, had 4 vans done at services while we stopped for lunch ranging from a 08 to a 22 plate all done within 25 mins emptied …