This video focuses on the process of building an ICF house, including framing the interior walls. The first step is to find an experienced designer who is familiar with this construction method. ICF homes are fast to build with and require less traditional building skills compared to brick-and-block and timber frame projects. ICF walls don’t need a house wrap, but they might be necessary on framed portions, such as dormers, window walls, and gables.
ICF walls are just as easy to install drywall on the interior walls of an ICF structure as in a wood-framed building. One contractor found she had 15 less drywall waste with ICF. Wood paneling is another interior finish. For simple interior finishing, line the wall framing up with the interior of the ICF wall so they are flush.
Every ICF wall will need a footer under it and will be approximately 11 inches thick. For interior walls, make sure to think about screw flashing into the ICF and then stud into flashing. All forms have a plastic strip that is 1″ wide, vertical, and every 8″ on center for screwing sheetrock directly on the ICF.
The ICF is structural, meaning that you can configure the interior 2 by 4 wall to be non-structural: 24-inch on center, single top.
📹 Framing an ICF House | Ep. 6
Thank you for watching! In this video I share what progress we’ve made on framing interior walls and how we’ve accomplished it.
📹 Framing Interior Walls – ICF House
Exterior walls are up, roof is on. Time to start framing the interior. This is going to be a two-part video where we go over the …
So it seems either the architect/floorplan designer knew where the plastic studs were and designed it so the stick walls would line up with the plastic studs? Or did the framers make the decision to just put the walls on plastic stud centers? I guess it would have been interesting to show how the stick wall attaches to the ICF wall if the plans has the falling between plastic studs. I believe the plastic studs sits back in the foam by 1/2 inch. So one way might be to create a screw plate out of 1/2 inch OSB between the plastic studs. That would require removing the foam between plastic studs to a depth on 1/2 inch with a hot-wire knife and replace it with the OSB. It would be tedious and labor intensive, however, I’ve seen it done on YouTube for blocking needed for things like cabinets, handrails, towelbars, etc. Another way is to use sheet metal between plastic studs to act as a screw plate to secure the stick walls. I’ve seen this done on YouTube. Or, carriage bolts could be installed back to the concrete core either pre or post pour. I don’t think choosing not to secure it to the ICF is an option, as the wall may be load bearing or people may be walking around on top of them later.
You do a nice job putting together you articles. They are better (especially with the sound) since you started doing them yourself. Some ICF manufacturers have a type of a cap you can place as your last course so you can trowel that crete smooth and flat, cutting the nubs of the to is also an option for a smooth flat surface.