Integrated LED lights are a revolutionary advancement in lighting technology that offers a seamless, low-profile appearance. They differ from traditional fixtures, which often require bulky sockets and wiring, as they have the light source built directly into the design. This allows for customization of the light source, whether it’s soft, warm or bright, making your space more comfortable and visually appealing.
Integrated LED lighting is energy-efficient, emitting less heat than traditional bulbs. It connects directly with low or line-volt electrical systems, making it easier to change out bulbs. The array of LED light diodes integrated or fixed on it work together to create a fuller, purer light.
In contrast, conventional lamps have room for replacing traditional light bulbs. Integrated LED fixtures incorporate LEDs directly into the luminaire, providing a more efficient and energy-saving solution. Many LEDs on the market are “integrated”, meaning the LEDs themselves and the housing are all bundled together.
LED chips are built directly into the fixture, while LED-ready fixtures have a socket for bulb screwing in. All-in-one LED fixtures are cheaper due to the reduced number of parts needed, as the LED is integrated into the luminaire.
In summary, integrated LED lights offer a more customizable and energy-efficient solution for lighting needs. They provide a more comfortable and visually pleasing lighting experience, making them an attractive choice for any space.
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Do integrated LED lights get hot?
LED bulbs are inherently low heat tech, but if left running in an enclosed space with no ventilation, such as in a small glass shade, they can heat outside of their usual temperature. As extreme temperatures rise, homeowners are seeking quick and cost-effective ways to cool down their homes. Turning off LED lights may not make a noticeable difference, but understanding their workings is important for the comfort of a home’s inhabitants. To bring your dream home to life, sign up for our newsletter and receive two free tickets to a Homebuilding and Renovating Show near you.
How long will integrated LED lights last?
The power supply is typically external and separate from the LED, ensuring the quality of the electronics. It can be easily replaced if the power supply fails without replacing the LED. LED integrated in a luminaire lasts 40, 000 to 50, 000 hours on average. However, there are still variations in quality between different LED chips.
LED modules are a third option, connecting directly to the power supply without a socket. All components come separately, and the necessary electronics are present in the external power supply. If the external power supply fails, the power supply can be replaced.
However, LED modules are more difficult to use in luminaires with special shapes. ClickFit spotlights are specifically designed for LED modules, with a click system that allows the LED module to be held in place without the need for a fitting.
How long do integral LED lights last?
The table compares the lifespan of LED lamps rated at 25, 000 hours with filament and CFL lamps. LED lamps last over 22 years at 3 hours per day, compared to less than a year for filament lamps and over 9 years for CFL lamps. This longer life saves time on lamp changes and reduces environmental impact by reducing lamps, packaging, and transport energy. All lamps, including LED, have a number of switching cycles, which can last up to 34 years. However, environmental factors like temperature can affect the value, and LED lamps are not designed for rapid switching.
What happens when built-in LED lights burn out?
LED bulbs do not undergo the same kind of deterioration as incandescent bulbs, which burn out. Instead, they degrade over time, which is known as “luminous decay.” This results in a gradual reduction in brightness. Once the luminosity has diminished to an insufficient level, it is necessary to replace the bulbs. Additionally, temperature influences the lifespan of these bulbs, as elevated temperatures can damage the circuitry and accelerate wear. The process may be accelerated by encasing the LED in a tight fixture.
Why is my integrated LED light not working?
The voltage from the mains power supply is converted to 12v or 24v by a driver, which is crucial for proper operation of an LED panel. If the driver is not functioning correctly, the voltage remains constant, leading to flickering and increased risk of burnout. If the panel is not functioning, it is likely due to faulty internal wiring. Fitting dimmable LED panels with an incompatible dimmer switch can also cause flickering. To ensure proper functioning, ensure the panels are compatible with the circuits, power supply, and light switches they are running off.
Invest in back-lit or central-lit panels with built-in drivers to reduce issues with drivers. Ask an electrician to check the wiring in the lighting system. LED panels are more expensive than traditional fluorescent tubes, so consumers may choose cheap, low-quality LEDs with inferior components that aren’t tested properly.
What is the difference between LED and integrated LED lights?
Choosing between Integrated LED or LED Ready fixtures is crucial when upgrading your commercial lighting system. Integrated LED fixtures come with built-in LED arrays, providing specific color and lumen output and are designed to last for many years. They are often sold without bulbs, allowing customers to select the appropriate bulb for their needs. However, replacing the bulb when it burns out is easier than replacing the LED array or module on the integrated fixture.
When choosing between Integrated LED and LED Ready fixtures, consider factors such as whether the fixtures comply with local building code requirements, the lifetime costs of the fixtures, and the need for additional maintenance. If the fixtures are in need of significant repairs, replacing them with integrated LED fixtures may be more economical. Additionally, it is important to consider the lifetime costs of the fixtures, including the original purchase, installation, ongoing maintenance, and energy costs. By considering these factors, businesses can make an informed decision on the best type of LED fixture for their lighting needs.
Is integrated LED a good idea?
Integrated LED bulbs have a longer lifetime rating and are more visually appealing and energy-efficient than screw-in bulbs. However, installation is more complicated, with higher upfront costs and upgrading difficulties. Despite these challenges, the initial outlay for integrated LED fixtures can pay for itself over time, with many bulbs having a lifespan of over twenty years, making installation costs less significant.
Can an integrated LED light bulb be replaced?
Integrated LED fixtures typically have higher up-front costs than drop-in fixtures, but this can be justified by eliminating the need for replacement bulbs and lowering maintenance costs over time. However, when the LED chips in an integrated fixture dim, you will need to replace the entire fixture instead of installing a replacement bulb. This may be difficult to find depending on when and where you bought your integrated fixtures.
LED-ready fixtures are usually less expensive upfront and offer the added benefit of only needing bulb replacements when adjustments or replacements are necessary. As long as you take proper care of your fixtures, they can last for a considerable amount of time, meaning you only need to worry about buying replacement bulbs, which are relatively inexpensive.
Easy to change light output: With LED-ready fixtures, you can easily purchase new bulbs with the color temperature, brightness, or color you desire, making it cheaper and easier than buying brand-new integrated fixtures. As LED technology advances, you can swap out old bulbs for newer, more efficient ones to increase the efficiency of your lighting system.
Reducing the need to mess with wiring: When the chips in an integrated LED light dim and you need to replace the fixture, you will have to wire in the fixture each time you replace it. With LED-ready fixtures, you only need to screw in or insert in the bulb, which is commonly desired by those who do not feel comfortable touching their home’s electrical system.
Compatibility is another concern with LED-ready fixtures, as sockets typically only accept one type of LED bulb. Drop-in fixtures from Super Bright LEDs come bundled with a compatible bulb, so you don’t have to worry about compatibility issues.
In conclusion, integrated LED fixtures offer several advantages over drop-in fixtures, including lower upfront costs, easy to change light output, compatibility issues, and higher upkeep costs.
What happens when integrated LED lights burn out?
Level 2 integrated fixtures are supposed to last long, but when the light dies, you need to replace the entire fixture. Rethink lighting and consider it as an appliance, with an expected lifetime of 10 to 15 years. Major appliances with gas connections, real refrigerant work, or other work that requires a lot of installation typically last 10 to 15 years. Outliers, such as furnaces lasting 30 years with occasional maintenance or water heaters lasting 20 years before rusting out, are great.
While some appliances can last 20-25 years, they are expensive and require a lot of work to install. It is important to consider the expected lifetime of your appliances when choosing the right lighting solution.
How long does an integrated LED last?
The power supply is typically external and separate from the LED, ensuring the quality of the electronics. It can be easily replaced if the power supply fails without replacing the LED. LED integrated in a luminaire lasts 40, 000 to 50, 000 hours on average. However, there are still variations in quality between different LED chips.
LED modules are a third option, connecting directly to the power supply without a socket. All components come separately, and the necessary electronics are present in the external power supply. If the external power supply fails, the power supply can be replaced.
However, LED modules are more difficult to use in luminaires with special shapes. ClickFit spotlights are specifically designed for LED modules, with a click system that allows the LED module to be held in place without the need for a fitting.
Do integrated LED lights need a driver?
LED lights, whether individual lamps or strip lights, require an LED driver to prevent burning out due to changing electrical current and voltage from a direct power source. The main power supplies typically come higher than the 12V or 24V required for LEDs. An LED driver converts the power supply into one that matches the LED’s electrical characteristics and regulates voltage and current fluctuations to avoid burning out the LEDs and potentially causing a fire. Different types of LED drivers are available to ensure the right fit for your needs.
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K does stand for kelvin. Kelvin is a temperature rating used for incandescent lamps. So the Kelvin scale is used to describe color. The higher the number the more white it is. The lower the number the more yellow/orange it is. With LEDs it is also important to note the lumens. Lumens will tell you the light output or how bright it will be. Hope this helps
I always cut the wire as close to the fixture as I can taking the old one down. I then wire nut on a pigtail using new wire and stuff the old wire, which I hopefully didn’t disturb back into the box. I swear that electricians years ago tried to use the shortest pigtails and often not only used wire nuts but also soldered the wires. That old wire and tape can get brittle but it’ll last another century as long as it isn’t disturbed.
I’m gonna say what many others have said. Use good old regular fixtures with LED bulbs. ESPECIALLY for outdoor security floods. The new built-in LED ones are a massive pain to install, not user friendly to install and throwing away the whole fixture when they fail costs too much. Again, for the outside floods on photo-cell and/or motion sensor use the good old tried and true fixtures with LED bulbs.
Kelvins are a measurement of the light spectrum. lumens are the output of light aka Candlelight Power. but to address the ‘green’ paint under the light fixture in this article, the house was most likely plastered and the old timers used to put green tint in the putty coat so they could see how the finish was being worked. plain white putty coat would cause ‘snow blindness’ and not allow them to finish out the material correctly.
Thanks for the kor light looks great but I took down old ceiling fan & it was wired to 2 red wires. So iam hooking the red wire that has two wires hooked to it assuming its the hot to the black. & the second red wire to the white & the yellow & green strip to the ground nut. Does that seem right to you? Iam thinking red are hot. But tested the other red & got nothing so must be neutral.
The color temperature chart is called a black body color temperature. Roughly, a pure black piece of metal is heated up so when it hits 3000 K thats the color of this piece of metal, as it gets hotter it gets less red. Another importamt factor to look at is the CRI or color rendering index this shows how well the light fixtures reproduce colors, low pressure sodium where everything is orange is very low sunlight is 100%. Finally, if light fixtures are labeled with the same color temperature but look different it is a result of binning. When light manufacturers purchase the LED chip they comes in bins with a + or – so many Kelvin the more you pay the tighter the range. So if a light manifacturer is being cheap you may see a bigger variation in the light fixtures color.
Just wondering, why wouldn’t you change the light fixture for another (more modern looking) light fixture and use LED light bulbs. That’s what we have been doing in my house for like the past 4 years and the results are amazing and you have the convenience of choosing different “k” ratings if you don’t like the ones you have, and if something breaks you dont have to go and deal with the warranty, bearing in mind you still keep that paper 6 months after you put the fixture in.
I try and stick with the 4000°K bulb color, the 3000°k color is way too yellow. Another issue is that most led lights are cheaply made with cheap led’s that have a horrible CRI rating. Most bulb boxes don’t even list the CRI values. If you do find a box that lists the CRI, the higher the better. CRI = Color Rendition Index. High CRI = higher cost due to phosphor chemicals used in the LEDs that best replicate the colors of the lights spectrum most accurately.
4800 IS NORMAL daylight. 5,000K is what I use everywhere and it makes me feel better! I’ve been using daylight color fluorescents for over 40 years. For a while I was also using the “REVEAL” brand incandescent lights which were also close to daylight color. Many people are used to incandescent color light, but it SUCKS!. FYI, it’s almost always the power supply that fails and NOT the LEDs themselves.
It will not make you sick, ive had led lights for a long time, latest things ive bought is everything of philips bridge, hue bulbs, led strips, go lamps, iris lamp, bloom lamp, sensors, also bought elgato eve motion sensors, room temp, door/window magnet sensors, dlink cameras, tplink camera and im waiting for another outdoor led strip made by philips hue also elgato eve weather
Where was your equipment grounding conductor in this installation? From what I could make out in the article, I couldn’t see a connection to that conductor. If you had an ungrounded wiring method (e.g. old non-metallic cable without ground), then a fixture requiring that connection can’t be installed. My hunch would be the wiring method was armored cable (or what we call BX in the electrical trade). If so, a connection should’ve been made to the outlet box via a ground screw in a threaded opening.
Here’s a simple way to remember color temperature. Imagine heating up a piece of wire until it glows. When it glows orange, the temperature will be around 3000 degrees, the same color as a candle flame. If you keep heating the wire, it will get white hot, about 5000 degrees, the same color as sunshine. Keep heating the wire and it will eventually turn bluish. The hotter the wire gets, the higher the color temperature, and the bluer the light.
Like you said, someone’s gonna pitch in with the Kelvin thing. Feeling bad because of wrong colour temperature (Kelvins) is a definite thing and the proper colour temperature depends on luminosity (amount of light). The more light you have, the higher Kelvins you need to get a neutral feeling. Normal indoors amount of light suits either 3000K or 4000K depending on how you wish but daylight temperature of 6500K will make you somewhat nauseous. If you happen to have A HUGE LOT of light, like in a graphic artist or model maker workshop, higher Kelvins are good. Colour temperature of 6500K is usually called daylight balanced because half overcast outdoors noon has that colour temperature. On a cloudless day, a classical artist north opening window will let in a lot higher colour temperature but those aren’t usually needed for lighting, unless you are casting a movie and need it. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kruithof_curve Wikipedia and its links will tell anybody likely more than they need to know and the rabbit hole suddenly opens up really deep.
There are many other factors to consider when choosing a LED fixture besides CCT (°Kelvin temerature). Not all LEDs are created equally. Some run at 70 lumens per watt and others run at 200 lumens per watt. Generally, a LED that runs at 200 lumens per watt will last longer because they run cooler. But if a manufacturer decides to run them at maximum wattage then they will die sooner. It is similar to driving a car at 100 mph all the time compared to running it at 40 mph all the time. The best way to design a LED light for longevity is to use extremely efficient LEDs and under drive them. Then use a well designed power supplied to drive the LEDs. It is not difficult to design an LED fixture to last5 or 6 years and then die. The MTBF (mean time before failure) is well known for most components going into the fixture. Most LED light failures are caused by poorly designed power supplies. The use of cheap capacitors in the power supply leads to short lifetimes. Poor heat management is another major cause of LED failure.
First off, I’m an old phart. Mood lighting no longer applies to me. I just finished replacing the last old light mounting in my condo today with and led light similar to the one you showed. What a difference! My two upstairs bedrooms are now bright as daylight and I no longer have to squint to find things. One bedroom had a ceiling fan which I took down. It was screwed into the beams of the ceiling!
The “K” rating is the color temperature of the light from the emitter, not the fitting. A diffuser will alter the light out of the fitting by absorbing some of the light in certain colors. Look up Planckian locus in Wikipedia… en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Planckian_locus This will give you a better understanding of color temperature. The “black body” is a hunk of platinum heated in a crucible until it gives off light and is used to describe the color of the light. LED makers put a yellow colored phosphor over the top of a blue LED to modify the color output of the LED, just like a fluorescent tube. Thickness and make-up of the phosphor and quality of the LED itself will determine the color of the light emitted by the LED. . A good LED maker groups or “bins” the LEDs for output in lumens, operating voltage and current and color temperature. You can select how tight you want the binning and you pay appropriately. The color temperatures are arbitrary numbers which won’t mean much to the average home owner so they gave them names… cool and warm white and daylight. These are “emotional” descriptions which are the reverse of the actual temperatures. There is a lot to learn about LED lighting… take it from a retired electronic (lighting) technician.
CRI is the important figure when determining how accurate the kelvin measurement is. This is one of those rare moments when filmmaking and DIY carry over: you will notice that your camera also has a kelvin setting in the white balance (5600k being daylight, 3200k being tungsten) and the best film-making lights have a CRI of 95 or above where accuracy is important for the digital sensors. Unfortunately most manufacturers don’t list or use accurate CRI in the residential lighting world.
I’ve seen these type lights repaired when one of the leds go out.. Just need a meter to test each diode but I’m not sure if it’s a resistance or continuity test I would have to look it up again.. I thought LED emitted less radiation.. I thought thats what this was going to be about.. The radiation.. How is LED killing us tho? They have no heat, don’t attract bugs as much.. Seems like a win despite the fact LEDS are probly overpriced. But that will come down.. Always use purple wire nuts.. Tell em to eat a wire nut..
Ok as a electrician I have to say, good luck. Anyway Leds can be fantastic, if the power supply is designed properly. That is the main issue. As long as the led is driven by the right miliamps for the mixture of the led, it will last for over 100 years. But hey, most people don’t care about details. Speaking of details, I love how people who don’t understand the purpose of the NEC try to explain what electricians do or how they do it. It’s a minimum standard for safety. Speaking of your gfi rant, you don’t really know any electricians because the gfi is not a issue. If it trips, that means your leaking power to ground. Not much, maybe 7 to 10 miliamps. That at 120 is less then a watt. Who cares. It’s only enough to kill some one working with metallic surfaces that the leak is going threw, and as long as you don’t connect the two with your body, you will never know why it maters. There are electricians that have issues with arc fault interuptors. Not ground fault. It’s that new tech that was pushed threw that was susposed to save lives and work by listening to the noise (rf) of arc and short circuits that don’t work well with electronics, transformers or motors. Those are the things that get removed at the discretion of electrical inspectors or the ahj that the NEC says has the authority over electrical installations. But I guess a jack of all trades knows better then an electrician. And before you say it, I said good luck at the start. I’m not here to bash you, and if you feel like I have, take it up with that person who stares back from mirrors cause, a I am a content creator too, b, I just don’t care, and c, I’m trying to help not hirt, and if you don’t know the difference, try working on a 30 amp service from 1900, like I have.
According to the thumbnail, yes, I do believe LEDs can make you sick if you use the old bluish cool white ones. But, they improved the LEDs and now you can buy yellowish warm white LEDs that are closer to the old incandescent bulbs rather than fluorescent bulbs. Personally, I always felt that fluorescent lamps produce DEPRESSING blue light. They are fine for a factory or a garage but not for a home.
Question about the “LED Lights will make you sick”.. When you said “6,000K and you’re going to want to throw up”, is that what you were referring to by LEDs making you “sick”? Follow up, your chart shows 6,000K and above as daylight. Do you get sick often when going outside? Just curious if I’m missing something here. Thanks.
I have worked for a lighting company for the last decade, I have seen, installed, and used about anything you can think of. I recommend using nothing that doesn’t have a screw-in base, the design works, its proven. While the saying about “not reinventing the lightbulb ” is questionable, the A19 bulb shape, medium “Edison” base screw in light socket remains for several reasons. Several GOOD reasons….Backwards compatibility not least among them…I understand the customer is always right, but I use screw in LED bulbs in my own house…
You are correct, “K” stands for “Kelvin”. 5600K approximates “daylight”. 3200K approximates Tungsten bulbs, just for reference (despite what that chart says). If you buy a light for article or film, the color temperature ratings are very important for color matching, and manufacturers are held to a higher standard. When you buy residential fixtures, the standards are lower, thus, the variation from fixture to fixture… 🙂
I installed a few 3000k lights and immediately uninstalled them, as the light was too white and lacking color. 3000k is not at all similar to an old incandescent bulb. Incandescent bulbs put out a warm yellow color, in the range of 2600k – 2800k. I know it doesn’t sound like much, but there is a big difference between 2800k and 3000k. I have learned to avoid anything over 2800k.
Electrical engineer/specifier here. I don’t know where to start, so I’ll address the brand of fixture. It’s not a reputable manufacturer. Since LED’s are the new thing, a lot of fly by night makers have come on the scene. Many of these companies buy cheap LED drivers and light engines from Asia and slap them in a housing. This creates 2 problems: 1.) Since they are cheap, they are not as energy efficient as other LED fixtures and they tend to burn out quickly, even before their stated warranty (if the company is gone in 4 years, then what?) 2.) They aren’t designed for optimal light output. Other LED fixtures with purpose built light engines take into consideration the way the light is distributed and optimizes its pattern. What is a reputable brand name? Acuity Brands (Juno, Lithonia, etc) is a good place to start. They have residential fixtures and have been making fixtures, including for the commerical market, for decades and know what they’re doing. Second, dimming. Again, with cheaper brands “dimmable” is a buzz word. A lot of times the LEDs flicker or have a terrible dim curve (just barely dims until you get near the lowest setting, then the light output plummets). Even the reputable guys don’t have a perfect dimmable LED for phase dimming (the kind you get with a line voltage dimmer). If you REALLY want to be able to dim LED lights (like in a TV room), you want to go 0-10V. It requires special dimmers, extra wiring and commercial grade fixtures, but if dimming is a must have, it’s worth the expense.
The service panel in that house is most likely a split-bus design. Code has always had the exception that you may have up to six disconnects to turn off a service. To save money by eliminating a main disconnect, one of the six disconnects shuts off any/all circuits that are not one of the six main disconnects. Then the other five disconnects are used for larger loads like Range, Dryer, A/C, etc. Split-bus panels remained popular even through the seventies.
Although they are not as easy to find as they used to be, 2700K is the closest to “warm white”, but most people cannot really differentiate between 3000K and 2700K. Side by side, it is a noticeable difference, and mixing and matching brands in a fixture will make it look a little “off”. “Bright white” bulbs are generally considered 4000K or 5000K depending on the manufacturer. “Daylight” bulbs are somewhere around 5500-6000K, and “cool white” are 6000+K. As for where this whole Kelvin scale comes from, basically when things get really frigging hot, like the sun, they start glowing. The sun glows at 5780K in space and 5900K in the ionosphere, give or take on the brightness depending on how many sun-spots or cold spots there are at any given time. Natural day light is near 6000K due to Raleigh scattering in the atmosphere, specifically with oxygen molecules and the dipole of of water molecules. It often seems counter-intuitive that a lower kelvin temperature is associated with a warmer light. The reason for this is the origins of how light was perceived before all the science got involved. Red is closest to infrared light, which is non-visible and at a lower energy than visible light. Infrared light deposits a lot of energy deep into the skin so it actually feels warmer. Things like fire give off a lot of radiant heat in the infrared spectrum with that warm glow we all know and love when it’s really cold outside. Ultraviolet light on the other hand is higher energy than visible light and doesn’t really deposit much energy deep into the skin, but it will fry the top layer (sunburn!
I’m a photographer so colour temperature (kelvin) is very important to me. 5600k is the colour temperature closest to “daylight” or the colour of light that we evolved over millions of years to live with. There are studies that show blue or “cool” lights (when used in the evening) harm the circadian rhythm (or sleep pattern) so I could agree that it’s best to have a “warmer” light (closer to 3000k) in areas such as the home where we will be using light in the evening hours. That said, to state that leds will make you sick is false and scaremongering (and something I feel you should address) At the end of article you mention not all 3000k lights are same “colour” in the light they give off…. This is down to the colour accuracy of the light; in photography we measure the accuracy of the light in CRI or TLCI and 97+ in these ratings is what you want. That said, consumer lights very rarely display cri/tlci ratings
I bought my house about 6 years ago, and almost all its recessed lighting had been retrofitted with LED lights. They had formerly taken incandescent floods, but the replacement LEDs came complete with the bezel and were a connected by a dongle you could just screw into the light socket; they clipped right into the canister. In 6 years I had a single one burn out on me about a month ago. The original model was no longer available, but an identical replacement down to bezel design was at Home Depot for about a third of what the original had cost. I guess that light temperatures varied enough that the replacement fixture’s was adjustable. I just had to set the switch until it looked the same as the existing lights. I’m not that interested in your mission loadout, but I’ll give it a like anyway to help out those who are.
might I suggest that the K rating for the light is for the LED itself, but the variation that you are noting is caused instead by the glass or plastic that is used to soften the light, even the paint used inside the light will have a large effect on the perceived colour of the light. BTW, love that screwdriver you were using., thanks for the link to it in your description.
You wanted to know the age of that fixture, its 1941. The lamp is from the JC Virden catalog. I have three of them in my livingroom. The globes came in Blue, White, Peach & Pink. If you want more light and LED, then use CREE led bulbs. Choose the Kelvin and the equivalent wattage you want. I chose to duplicate the original light bulbs, with a CREE 2700K @ 40 watt equivalent LED. I use them as accent lights. I bet you trashed the light. The fixtures go for about $35 – 50 and the glass goes for $50-75 on Ebay. That’s about what I paid for two matching Peach colored globes with new repo bases to match the original single fixture.
I have that same fixture in my and NO ONE has gotten sick from it. LED lighting DOES NOT cause sickness. Lack of natural lighting WILL cause depression over time. You can get a natural light that will fix that problem. A light that is not on that much such as a bathroom light IS NOT going to hurt you in any way.
The Kelvin scale is based on color temperature. The sun is the whitest light you can get which is what human eyes are designed to work in. The sun at noon is 5,500 Kelvin. In the afternoon the sun throws light closer to 6,500 Kelvin. Anything less than around 5,000 Kelvin begins to be yellow, then orange, red, and eventually infrared. Anything above 5,500 starts turning blue, violet, and ultra violet the higher you climb. So to say anything above 4,00 Kelvin makes you sick seems silly to me unless you hate sunlight which again is 5,500 Kelvin.
Get LEDs with STANDARD base and you CAN change the LED bulb. Worst thing you can do for a residential is using the SMD type diodes. You will have maybe 7 years maybe 20 years use, but you will have to change ALL the lights as that model will not be available in 5 to 10 years when the LED goes bad by age, or by some glitch in the driver, and they CERTAINLY do go bad sooner than rated, based on use. Another MAJOR factor amateurs are clueless to is the CRI rating. You want as close to 100% as possible. This allows you to see all colors more accurately. I cant understand how anyone wants 2700-3500Kelvin light these days, when you can have daylight color correct lighting. SO anything between 4000K to 5500K is good. more or less you get warm or cold/blue tones.
LED stands for “Illuminating Emitting Diode” they are not bulbs. Kelvin is the primary unit of temperature, but the number will vary depending of what lighting source you are using, for instance; Fluorescent, incandescent, HPS, Metal Halide, and LED. The lower the spectrum the reddish the light will be, and the higher the spectrum the bluer the light will be. An incandescent bulb at 35K to 41K in the neutral spectrum, meaning it’s right in the middle of Warm White and Daylight referring to Bright White. In LED it is 4,000-4500K for Natural White, and 7,000-7500K for Cool White which is more in the bluish spectrum. To answer your question on what is the purple wire nut for…it is to connect aluminum and copper conductors together preventing oxidation due to dissimilar materials with a corrosion-resistance compound inside the connector. As for GFCI, they serve a purpose and shouldn’t be discarded because they can be difficult. There purpose of GFCI is to prevent accidental electrocution when mortals are working around wet locations. Removing them from locations would be considered a code violation.
Safety Police here . . . Do NOT turn your nose up to GFI outlets! ;o)) Purple wire nuts . . . Al/Cu connection, and I believe they are filled with grease: __ homedepot.com/p/Ideal-Twister-Al-Cu-Wire-Connectors-Purple-10-Pack-30-1765S/202935623 My house was wired with alum. Upgrades are in copper. Lots of purple wire nuts.
LED fixtures or bulbs will fail/burnout. This is due to the fact that LED’s are designed to be turned on and left on. If you have a fixture or LED bulb that cycles through a constant on and off (like most lamps/fixtures) the life expectancy of it will be 3-6 months to a couple of years. If you turn on the lamp/fixture and leave it on (never turn it off) the life expectancy it will be with in the range that is stated on the package. After installing 1k dollars of LED’s in my basement, within 3 months they began to fail one after another. We removed them all, took them all back to Home Depot and purchased the same item (it was the same brand too) that took a bulb instead, also purchased the LED bulbs to go with them. Same amount of fixtures and the bulbs also cost us half the price of the original LED fixtures we purchased. We installed the new fixtures and LED bulbs and it all looked just as before. These do still go through the on and off cycle daily and I’m happy to say that 3 years later we have only had to change 2 of the bulbs so far. We also installed 1 fixture that has built in LED’s and we’ve never turned it off. The others began to fail within 3 months, this same one is going on 3 years and it’s still on with no plans to turn it off. The LED’s bulbs in my lamps upstairs so far going on 3 years haven’t needed to be changed. I do think that when they designed the “bulb” they factored in the on/off cycling of the bulb and built that factor in. The CFL bulbs were better than the incandescent bulb in many ways but when it came time for the bulb to “blow” I always noticed a type of charging where the bulb was attached.
I work for a manufacturer that makes LED auto headlamps. You think replacing that light fixture is bad? Try replacing an LED headlamp in one of these newer autos when they burn out or get broken. They are sealed units with no bulbs so you’re looking at spending several hundred dollars, if not over $1000 to replace one headlamp.
In a knob and tube wired house, the neutral conductors are used as switch legs… When I am doing a whole house makeover, I reverse the neutral and current carrying conductor in the panel, and indicate that with colored shrinkable tubing, using a different color for each new current carrying conductor and white on the new neutrals. Then do the same fix at each device / fixture. At the first outlet on each circuit, the NEC allows you convert 2 prong outlet to 3 prong (without a ground / non-current carrying conductor) if you install a GFCI outlet. When you need to shut off a circuit, the color code will make this task easier…
LED Christmas bulbs: I took them back to Target and asked for refund. The reason is because there is a tiny flicker to the lights, and it just looked to “unnatural” like the breaker is going to turn off or the socket is loose, but it was none of the above, just the twittering of the LED. Never bought them again.
Went to home depot to get new bulbs for my family room ceiling fan. They don’t have regular bulbs anymore they only sell led bulbs. I purchased 4 of them and put them in my fan and the lighting in the room was horrible it didn’t have that warm feeling in the room. It had a cold feeling. Went to Walmart and they only have led bulbs too. After searching locally i found regular bulbs at Drugmart and purchased every 40w bulb they had on their shelf so im good for many years lol. I do have a super bright led fixture i installed in my garage which i love but i just can’t have that kind of lighting inside my home. Like i said it just had a really cold feeling.
When the article starts I am assuming you are in your own garage, and if that is so, then I hope you do a better job at your clients houses then you do electrical in your shop. That sub panel in the background does not have a cover on it, you have stuff piled in front of it ( which is a code violation ), You’re running bare romex ( by code it needs to be in a raceway, Also you have your sub panel attached with 2 boards, instead of a piece of plywood so the entire back is supported. Not very good looking work.
Today a neighbor points out a list of improvements to start on our complex in just a few days and this is on the list. Another stupid move just like at the last complex of theirs I lived at they replaced all toilets in a large complex with one having a 36 month or less use. We all knew within 3 years everyone in the complex would have broken pots🤣
Am i delusional? I trusted the article heading and nervously thought all the money i might have wasted by replacing all my lightbulbs by led smart light bulbs and mentally went over my last months health symptoms and my train of thought stop as i put all my attention to the info being told and at no time i found any mention of the effect of led lights on my health… Ive watched the article a few times and sadly ive been a victim of clickbait cause this article has nothing to do with the effect of led lights on my health… Maybe im being too literal but in this days of misinformation being rampant everywhere and paranoia over new.technology etc i really dont have time to.watch anything unrelated to my immediate concerns and as charming as.the.nsrrator comes.across i cant afford another clickbait and wont trust this website in the future for my educational concerns cause for.entertainment i look elsewhere…
purple wire nuts are special. you only use those when someone gives you a purple nurple.. . . . er texas tee tee twister The most often suggested unacceptable repair; (“pigtailing”) involves attaching a short piece of copper wire to the aluminum wire with a twist-on connector sometimes called a wire nut (IDEAL Purple #65); the copper wire is connected to the switch, wall outlet or other termination device. Pigtailing aluminum is perfectly acceptable. Your electrician would just go to every outlet and pigtail the aluminum with a short copper strand using a Al/Cu Wire Connector (these are usually purple for identification). This is probably the best solution for lights and other “non” outlets plus, if your house has aluminum wiring, do replace it with copper wire. reason is because for aluminum wiring it takes more juice to run through it than copper does.
You do understand you can put an LED bulb in any fixture, correct? You don’t have to install an assembly. Installing assemblies is a terrible idea and a giant disservice to your customers. This is called creating future jobs for yourself. Also, 3000k is halogen equivalent, not standard incandescent. Standard incandescent lighting is 2700k.
LED has a higher proportion of blue spectrum light, which is closer to daylight, so it tricks your brain into thinking its daytime, this will mess with your circadian rhythm and potentially make you sick. Your LED TV has the same effect. Also, LED lighting fails more often in domestic rather than commercial premises. Usually because there is no Surge Protection Device fitted in homes. This upgrade could save you a lot of money on LED fixtures.
Hi, I always wondered why most people in Canada and the USA seem to like the old candle like color that incandescent light bulbs produces? Would it be because of the Sun being tilted due to the curvature of the earth which means light does need to go through more material on the atmosphere and that’s part of the reason the Sun does look a bit yellow on this part of the world? I am curious to know because when I used to live in Cuba, most people liked the clear white day light (4000k or higher) produced by more modern lights which matched the light of the day. 🤔 please let me know if you can 👍
led makes everything look dead, or wishing it was dead. original light bulbs do better because it excites the atmosphere, unlike the LED. . . all it does is refract off of the blue hue in the atmosphere to make stuff appear brighter, but in reality. . it does not. as for using super bright head lights on your vehicle just to see down the road, but in reality . . you are in fact blinding on coming traffic. the glass sealed beam headlights do not do that unless you have high beam on like a idiot. good install of the light fixture, keep it because someone will want that old style look. awsome article !!
I like using the GU10 type bulbs and fittings for LED installs. They have come on heaps over the past few years in performance and looks (some bulbs are ‘all glass’ just like their halogen counterparts), you can always replace the bulb if it fails, and you are less restricted in choosing fittings as most GU10 fittings will take either a traditional halogen or LED bulb.
What do you recommend for to use as ceiling lights when you have an apartment with NO ceiling light? I hate lamps….hate them because I have to walk to each wall to turn on a light. And all those lamp purchases costs money. I want an overhead light that will illuminate overhead or even a ceiling corner one. And, the light switch for the rooms only work on ONE outlit. Therefore, when turning it on, only ONE light will turn on so you still have to put in a lamp in another corner of the room. I have never lived in an apartment before where there weren’t any ceiling lights. Suggestions? Really huge Thanks! It’s so dark at night.
Thinking about painting some hardwood floors why? Id have to sand them down a 1/8 to a 1/4 in some spots the floor is the subfloor too its nailed in the old way with those square nails in the tongue so I can pull it out easy either just going to paint it up until the splinters are gone and I can sweep it with out trouble. I’m thinking black or gray black would be more interesting to me but gray is okay to.
Having to replace the fixture seems super wasteful. It would be nice if the fixtures were designed so that the LEDs could be detached from the fixture so they could be replaced. Even if we had to sauder a new one in place every time one failed, out would be better than filling the landfill with light fixtures with one defective diode.
I’d much rather (and do) just put LED bulbs in my current fixtures. I’m glad Edison bulbs are mostly history. They were one of the most inefficient technologies ever invented. That said, I understand about being attached to old technology. I recognize that the internal combustion reciprocating engine is also one of the most inefficient (and damaging) technologies ever invented… but I still love muscle cars.
what’s bad about brushed nickel? the property owners I work for switched to oil rub bronze about a year ago and now they want the nickel again for future renovation. I personally prefer oil bronze with golden highlights, but the plumbing fixtures get all cruddy with hard water buildup. I wipe my stuff off every time I use it but thousands of other tenants don’t.
For Alum to copper connections. You need to do vids of just mocking commentors, I lose my shit laughing every time at that voice. With that whole GFI thing I think some area take there codes to far. Like here in WI where I am you only need them with in so many feet of the sink or tub I believe. You go down in Chicago where we do a lot of work too, the code down there is every outlet in the house has to be GFI receptacle. You can’t cheat it either by putting a gfi as the first outlet in the circuit, every single receptacle has to be one, its crazy.
What’s the point? Why not just buy a regular light fixture and put LED bulbs into it? Maybe someday, when LEDs can be assumed to last 20 years, as opposed to 2, a fixture with permanently installed LEDs will be worth buying, but for now, I don’t want to go messing with screws and wire nuts every time a light burns out. So much for the “upgrade”.
I purchased a bathroom light based on your recommendation of this brand. Opened up the box and first thing I noticed the light wasn’t bolted onto the base crooked. Next I powered it up and instead of a 3000K light like the package said it was more toward 5000K. I know my LED colors very well. I built and made money from them. If anyone knows of where to get a decent light I would be interested. I like light in the 3200-3700 range for in the house. For shop lights 5000K is nice.
I find this type of fixture a waste of money. The warranty is good for 5 years. Okay. I bet it may last another 5 years at most after the warranty, and that is if it wasn’t made in China. That means it along with so many others will wind up in the land fill which are already getting overwhelmed. This is neither economical or good for the environment. Yes it is LED, which reduces ones carbon emissions, but not good for reducing waste.Replace the light fixture with a standard light fixture and use LED light bulbs. Much more economical and still reducing carbon emissions and reducing waste in the landfills. By the way love that screw driver.
When you look at the Lighting Facts label, look for something called CRI, which stands for color rendering index. In layman’s terms, It’s a 100 scale, and an incandescent light source is a perfect 100 – which means it renders colors like the sun. Unfortunately, there are a lot of crappy LED fixtures out there with a CRI of 70 or 80. It might even change the color of your couch! Try to look for something with a CRI of 90 or above. Cheers,
I’d say you Handy Andy stole your tape measure and you went on Amazon to buy four more. I believe the purple wire nut has something to do with corrosion prevention from different types of wire conductors. I think it was between aluminum? (silver wire, in my cases) and the standard copper used in most applications (standard 12/2 Romex).
We recommend the use of variable CCT lights. These lights use warm and cool white leds. They mix the warm to cold light ratio so you can vary the mood produced by the light fixture in the room. You can vary the °Kelvin from 2200°K to 6500°K. They also are dimmable. These lights tend to be produced by manufacturers who are interested in producing quality instead of being the lowest price with planned obsolescence.
Beautiful ❤❤❤ thank you! My light was ok.nand one day become yellow and weak. On top of it, I went to Lowes to ask for the replacement and the ” helper ” ( that never helps anyone ) told me if I bought the guaranteed. I said no I don’t need it. And he smiles and told me that’s the reason we recommend guaranteed” and I was like are you telling me that instead of ” changing a bulb like in the old times ” I have to send the whole fan back to factory ? The ” LED ” is supposed to work like 7 years. And I bought this fan less than a year ago. This is a ripp off. So, thank u. Also, I’ve been noticing my light bulbs that are supposed to be low energy and last 8 years . I’ve been changing a few of them around the house. And guess what ? I’ve bought all af them when I moved here less than 2 years ago. California is a scam. The government is supposed to protect citizens, and they do nothing about scams.
Do these LED lights spontaneously fry themselves after only a couple years of owning it? I have a ” HOME DECORATORS COLLECTION 52 inch Indoor LED Color Changing Ceiling Fan Ashby Park Collection” Had it since mid 2020, and when my hvac guys were installing the mini-split units, I was told my light spontaneously went out. They had said that they weren’t aware what happened. I’m here to ask if it’s possible for these LED lights to just spontaneously fry/short circuit themselves?