Frame wall arrangements can be simple grids, mixed grids, horizontal frames, eclectic, vertical, vertical, and staircases. These arrangements balance movement and symmetry, creating a sense of movement and visual widening. Various styles and sizes can be combined for a unique, collected-over-time look that works in spaces large or small.
A-frame houses are popular for their relaxed rustic and modern aesthetics, often found in cabins. To create a stylish A-frame cabin interior, consider making a statement with decor, opting for space-saving planning, welcoming nature with full-height glass, and keeping it simple.
When designing an A-frame house interior, consider making a statement with decor, opting for space-saving planning, welcoming nature with full-height glass, and keeping it simple. Choose walls and furnishings in shades of white, beige, or light gray to reflect light and create a sense of space.
Embrace the height of your A-frame by using vertical wall decor, hanging art, macramé, or textiles high up to draw the eye upward, emphasizing the unique lines of your home. By incorporating these design ideas, you can create a unique and stylish retreat that blends modern amenities with cozy comfort.
📹 How to FRAME a Wall – 3 EASY STEPS
This video demonstrates how to frame a basic wall in three easy steps. The steps include laying out the studs, placing and securing them to the top and bottom plates, and adding blocking for stability. The video uses clear visuals and explanations to guide viewers through the process.
📹 The Basics of Framing A Basement Wall
We’re currently finishing our basement and I thought I’d share the basics of what I know about framing a basement wall with wood …
I have only been framing for 45 years so I don’t know everything. BUT this works for this guy. I do NOT do it like that. I always stager the butt joints when doing the floor plate and top plate to make it stronger. I also make an L at the ends for nailing drywall. I measure completely differently. Again, what this guy does, works for him. BUT professionals do it differently.
I love that you took a difficult wall, with many things to consider, and made a article out of it. The camera work and the extra close views of you marking it out was what i was missing from all the other article’s i’ve seen. I know it must take a load of extra time when filming it initially, but the quality of instruction leaves NOTHING to be filled in with guess work, so THANK YOU!
Thank you. I’m a 63 year old female, brand new to carpentry. I’m building a chicken coop to practice what I’m learning. Almost everyone has words of wisdom & knowledge to share. You have found a way to put it all together, spell it out simply & I come away with confidence. Marking top & bottom boards simultaneously was a Doh! moment for me. I really appreciated it tho lol
I’ve framed a basement with pre making walls on the floor. It’s got its pros but you need to consider undulations in the floor which mandate careful measuring lest you find you have a wall you can’t get into position. If the floor is wavy at all or too much junk on the ceiling I prefer to pre set the bottom plate, then the top with a plum bob, and individually attach studs.
I have a “framing nailer vs screws” comment. perusal roofers lay shingles in mere seconds with a roof nailer looks to save tons of time on a hot roof. So I was fully prepared to rent a framing nailer like the DeWalt beast,(who doesn’t like a new tool/toy!) but because I am super analytical, I was curious if it really saves time. So, I just ran a stopwatch at 10:53 and to put in two nails took 6 seconds. My upcoming project has 120 studs, so on both ends, that would be 6seconds x 2 ends x 120 studs= 1440seconds or 24minutes. Not bad at all. However, I then ran a stopwatch for screws; picking up screw, lining it in to the drill bit (impact gun) and screwing it home. Took 12 seconds for both screws, so I figure it would take twice as long, but the difference from 24 minutes to 48 minutes isn’t much. I guess if framing a whole house, or for roofing, speed is a much more important factor, but for me an extra 24 minutes is like not perusal a Seinfeld show. No big deal. Some more benefits: -safer with screws (no chance of nailing a finger, or plastic in the eye) -no time spent loading new nails in the nailer -no need to invest in an expensive tool ($500+) (or go through the hassle of renting one..that would take 24 minutes for pick up and drop off alone!) -I like screws for their versatility (being able to easily remove them if I make a mistake) -Screws cost less money too. $50 for a case of 1,000 #8 3″ screws vs $80 ($40 for rental, $40 for nails) vs. . Even if I wear through 2 or 3 screw bits, I am still saving money.
Great article! I”ll definitely be picking up the speed square for my next basement building project. 👍. How long do the batteries typically last in the nail gun? I like the cordless idea, though it sounds like it’s heavier then other nail guns….making it a bit harder on the arms. I don’t have a large basement, and the exterior walls are already framed, so probably not an issue for me.
We just had to build a wall for some stage stuff at my church. One thing that I learned that I never thought about was to place the bow of studs in all the same direction so you don’t have big warp between two studs. I don’t know how often that matters or is practiced but it seemed to make sense. Disclaimer: not at all a framer or professional here. Lol.
I’m getting ready to attempt to finish my unfinished basement this winter with zero experience and gonna go based off this article out of all articles I watched. Your article has helped with the intimidation factor so thank you for making a easy to follow article! Also gonna go buy a ramset it looks easier and faster then using my hammer drill.
Hey, I really want to thank you for this article! I’m in the beginning phase of doing the same thing in my basement, to make an isolated room for a work shop. I’ve never done this before, and was a little nervous about where to begin, (& then what to do, lol), but your instructions are fantastic, and I’m feeling more confident about taking on this project … I know; it’s kinda crazy, but I’m 59 years old, and I’ve never done this kind of thing before. Guess I’m just a late bloomer lol. Anyway, I really appreciate all of the time and detail you put into this article, and let you know how much it helps.
Not a bad article. My only recommendation is the joints on your top and bottom plate should be offset. Bottom plate is fine then you should of used a longer board to get the seams away from each other. And put the seam between studs and then sister that section of top/bottom plate. That’s the correct way to do it if you aren’t going to do a double top plate but the way you showed is how some builders do it to speed it up (not their house they don’t care). Another thing I learned is when marking for cuts, I do a check with a perpendicular line going up to the tape then slash at an angle to the waste side. Just eliminates pencil lifts
This article offers a clear and concise tutorial on framing a basement wall, providing viewers with the fundamental knowledge needed to undertake this common DIY project. By breaking down the process into easy-to-follow steps and offering practical tips, the article empowers viewers to confidently tackle basement renovations. It’s a valuable resource for homeowners looking to expand their living space or enhance the functionality of their basement.
NOPE. You lost me as soon as you laid the top plate next to the bottom plate and did it that way. As someone that used to Frame houses, dont ever do it this way. The bottom plate and the top plate will almost never be the same length as the concrete is never perfectly flat, straight and level. Always use at least a 4ft level and a tape measure.
Great instructional article! I’d love you opinion: creating a play space in our 100+ year old house for our two kids. I am going to divide the basement in half to separate mechanical and laundry and lay subfloor panel in the play space, should the wall be built on top of this subfloor? For the wall on the two exterior walls, how many inches away from the foundation is appropriate for air flow? The exterior walls do get damp in the summer and we run a dehumidifier from May to November. Thanks.
In putting up a wall in my old garage as I build it out into a part time living space, I’m finding this garage does not seem to be square in many ways (maybe bc of age??). The perimeter wall that I’m attaching a wall to is not vertically square, so if I frame a wall to be square and lift into place, I have a little more than an 1″ at the base of the wall and a flush fit at the joist. Would I just build the additional wall square and do some shim blocking or build against the perimeter stud and lengthen my footer to make up for the extra space on the bottom? Placement of this new wall is not adjustable. Thank you for a great tutorial! And the clarity, content, filming, and tips without any extra and unnecessary article was perfect! A 26 minute article can be so daunting to commit to bc of wasted time with unnecessary content sometimes. Your article had me not wanting to miss anything bc everything there was helpfully shared and articulated.
The 2×4 backing Studs you put in the wall, Are Very Weak, You should have made a website, Using three studs two on the side and one Flat facing The wall. In other words: You add It on to each side of the 2×4 You put in the wall flat flat to nail the wall to, And you created website! Now you have a Strong Supportive Set up to Anchor the Wall you’re raising it Up to. I wish I could draw you a picture here Of what i’m talking about! If you know what a website is, then you know what it is on talking about. … Other than that I liked You’re demonstration, On how to frame a wall-! Keep up the good Work, take care, GodBless you 🙏🏻 By for now, Ken .. I hope to hear from you merry Christmas Dec 2300
I wasn’t looking for a framing article but something told me to check it out….which I did! Thanks for taking on an odd shape/length wall. It was just a great article. You carried it well with easy to follow instruction. Plus…… you didn’t have hard rock music playing in the background or using it as filler. Perhaps, ‘Ask this Old House’ is looking for another carpenter……you have my vote.
If I need to build a partition wall to a room that’s already been dry walled and painted etc, is it better to remove the existing drywall if, for example, the new wall does not meet a stud and would require blocking like in the article? Or is there a way to still achieve structural integrity to the wall without removing drywall? For example, would anchoring it to the concrete floor and ceiling be enough? The wall would be acting as support for a set of built in wardrobes. Or do you think there’s a way to secure the built in wardrobes without a wall? Like making a base, attaching that to the concrete floor, and instead of securing the wardrobe backing to a new wall, attach it on the one side where it meets an existing wall and then secure the built in wardrobe to the base? 🤔 The partition wall wouldn’t go from wall to wall either because the entrance would be a walk in without a door.
Hi. Thanks for the great article.I am getting ready to attempt to frame out my basement on my own — 60 year old athletic-ish female. A couple of questions. First, why is the window in the article covered by studs? Are you not framing it out? Do you have a article where you do frame out the window? Also, do you have a article about putting a pocket door in a wall as you construct the wall? And as I see you measure 16″ for the studs, it makes me think I would rather use a 16 inch piece of stud that I tape up with red tape or something to let me know that’s my 16″ measuring stud, instead of to keep having to use my measuring tape. Would that work or better just use the tape measure? Thanks, Renee
The absolute hardest part of a basement finish is moving all the materials to that level..here in Colorado we have to build floating walls. They’re “so fun” but very effective..Excellent tools, your nailer is worth it’s weight in gold. Just today I got in Milwaukee’s hammer drill, impact gun and oscillating tool…What to build, what to build…haha! Question: Why all the space between the foundation wall and the framing? I’m subbing, I like what you’re doing!
Very helpful vid. I used steel studs years ago. Probably took longer but more versital. Adding a bathroom and kitchen so doing wood studs this time. I wonder why there was no sealent or insulation on concrete walls. I used a very thick sealent paint and 2″ insulation board also thin sealent on concrete floor.
I say you should put more fastener aka harden nails betweet each stud as well on top screw in between each stud set. That builds structure strong When your drunk buddy who weighs 300 lbs falls against your drywall wall he does damage only to the drywall and himself, and not the studs knocked out too.
You made a great article and I see you take the time to reply to most comments! The only thing I think most people would change to make a much stronger wall is instead of toe nailing one stud onto a joint, which can result in multiple modes of failure, it is best to finish the end of that piece with a stud, and continue the next bottom chord with another stud, and then fastening the two together at a 16″ nail separation. This is especially true in your situation because there is not a double top plate to bind the wall sections together.
Hmm, I have always done studs on 16 inches. I know why you are coming back 3/4 inch, because the 2 x 4 is 1.5 inches. I just never worried about it and placed the edge at 16. Actually makes it easier to measure to find a stud with the drywall on. Drywall is 1/2 or 5/8 inch and if you measure 16 inches from the drywall, you will hit the stud every time. That is how it is taught by everyone. X on the 16 inch, back 3/4 inch with the speed square.
I want to thank you so much. I learned so much. Q: Why did you start at 15 1/4 on the framing instead of 16? I also noticed that the framing of the walls was not butted up against the concrete wall. Can you briefly explain.? Back in the day, i would watch folk nail the framing up to the existing walls. However, I have subscribed to your website. Now I can begin to frame in the basement where I grew up at. Again Thank you.
Looks like you are doing a nice clean job. I was wondering why you framed over your windows? I just did a basement at my daughters house where the floor was slightly sloping. I had to measure every stud. With plates installed, measuring was easy with my Bosch laser measurer. I then stick framed the walls. Where I’m from, framing should be nailed not screwed for code compliance. Screws are handy for temporarily holding things but then they get nailed off. These are just partition walls so I guess no problem.
Stopped perusal when you moved your tape when marking out for studs ss going back 3/4″ couldnt be easier if a person is really up to the task of framing imo. First person I’ve ever seen do this and your tape is apt to move around and end up making a mess and marks all off if a person were to make a habit doing this.
Just finished framing a room in a basement and have so many questions. 1. Where your wall butts against the existing wall, why not run blocking between the studs on the existing framing to tie the new section in? 2. where the two sections of the new wall meet, why not end each section with a stud and attach the two sections together? Wouldn’t that be easier (and more stable) than trying to have a stud split across two top / bottom plates? 3. No double top plate? Wouldn’t that allow you to stagger where the sections meet, making the wall more stable? 4. Why no jack studs and header in the doorway?
why is the vapor barrier not on the BACK of the framed wall, between the studs and the concrete wall? i thought that vapor barrier was designed to keep moisture away from moisture sensitive things. and moisture coming through basement concrete is pretty common, given enough time…that, and wood rots if left in contact with water. and once you throw drywall on those walls, getting to the studs behind it is going to be pretty tricky with a moisture barrier between them. you would pretty much have to tear down the whole wall!
17:44 cool. A mini shotgun. haha I didnt know they had nails that can go into concrete. In telecom, to fasten relay racks to the concrete floor. they use a “drop-in Anchor” and a bolt to screw into the anchor. But installing an anchor requires you to drill a hole first in the concrete, then hammer in the anchor. So it requires more work to install it.. But it may be better for siezmic activity? I am not 100% sure at the moment. but I am all for doing something easier.
Thank so much!!! I have spent hours trying to find this information. I am kinda just the facts kinda mama and your article is just that. What you need, how to do each step what to think about in future steps that impact what you do in this one. Easy to understand no intimidating number blah blah (it is what I hear when men talk) super excited as I need to build a outside space to house and protect the tools I am collecting. Thanks again
Great article, thorough yet easy to follow and you cover the basic steps which others sometimes take for granted. I have a big unfinished basement, but I am just framing out a “home office with a door. I am planning to do laminate floor. Can I put that right over the concrete? If I do need a subfloor, is that just pressure treated plywood or is there some sort of framing that goes on the floor as well? Thanks.
GREAT article! People have been perusal YouTube for so long now that I think they take for granted how much work it takes to do one of these……well. It’s hard-work to do one that sucks, for that matter. You made something mythical to a lot of people and made it look achievable. I’m building a home studio (soundproofed), so this is golden to me. One question….and my apologies if you already mentioned it. But, what size/length nail did you use when fastening to the floor??
I’ve been searching for a straightforward can do way of framing an interior wall and your article has by far been the easiest to follow and most helpful. Thanks for the content and keep it up. Question: is there an alternative way of attaching the sill plate to the concrete slab? Tapcon screws? Thanks!
I just want to say how much I appreciate instructional articles in this format, particularly with renovation/construction. The devil is in the details with this sort of thing, and you just don’t get that with the YouTube industry standard renovation vid. The two-and-a-half minute article set to happy “you can do it” music really covers the broad strokes and leaves too much up to interpretation.