Linseed oil is a natural refinishing stain that can be used on wood decking to make the natural grain appear prominently. To use it, clean the deck thoroughly and let it dry. Apply the linseed oil with a brush or rag, ensuring even coverage. Allow the oil to penetrate for 30 minutes, then wipe off excess. Let it dry for 24-48 hours before using the deck.
Linseed oil is a favorite among wood-care enthusiasts as it seeps deeply into the wood grain, providing essential nourishment and exterior wood protection. It is best to have a first coat of boiled linseed oil with an iron oxide colorant in it, such as red, brown, or black. This will either make a solid paint or a stain in the wood.
To apply raw linseed oil to wood, use a cloth, brush, or sprayer. Apply the oil in a thin coat and allow it to dry completely between coats. It is usually best to apply several coats of oil, allowing each coat to dry thoroughly before applying the next. The deck should be dry for three days at least before applying the oil.
Linseed oil is not a wood preservative but helps maintain wood’s natural appearance and protect it from water damage. To use boiled linseed oil, mix varsol 50/50 with parafin wax and melt it into the mix. If you are going over boiled linseed oil, it might not be a bad idea to use any filler on an exterior deck.
📹 A 5000 year old wood finish formula that can’t be messed up!
How to apply a flawless BLO and Wax wood finish in three easy steps! ▽EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES …
What is better, tung oil or linseed oil?
The choice between tung oil and linseed oil depends on the project’s requirements. Tung oil is ideal for outdoor projects requiring durability and moisture resistance, while linseed oil is ideal for indoor projects requiring quicker drying time and more sheen. It’s crucial to consider these factors when choosing the best wood finish. Walrus Oil offers a Danish Oil wood finish that combines both oils, suitable for both indoor and outdoor projects, with a slightly faster cure time and a natural matte finish.
Is linseed oil good for decks?
Allback linseed oil paint is a great solution for maintaining a deck. It soaks into the wood, causing water to bead on the surface and evaporate, preventing it from sinking and causing issues. To maintain the deck, apply a coat every 5-10 years or when it starts to look dry. For example, a cedar deck in New York state is painted with white Allback organic linseed oil paint, while a white cedar deck is painted with a mix of colors.
What is the best way to apply linseed oil?
Once the preceding layer has undergone the requisite drying period, additional cords may be applied in order to construct additional layers and thereby provide comprehensive protection.
What are the disadvantages of decking oil?
It is important to note that not all timber types are compatible with decking oil. Therefore, it is essential to ascertain the suitability of the product prior to application and to reapply it every four to six months in fully exposed environments, where additional maintenance may be required.
How to oil a deck with linseed oil?
To maintain your timber deck and furniture, mix linseed oil with mineral turpentine at a 50:50 ratio. Apply two thin coats using a brush, roller, or spray gun, allowing the oil to dry between coats. Clean excess oil with a clean, lint-free cloth. If you notice greying or growing mold, treat it to bring it back to life. Clean your deck and furniture every 6-12 months to “exfoliate” the timber, allowing restorative oils to penetrate and protect it. Remember to wear gloves and eyewear when cleaning your timber. Weather can deteriorate timber over time, so it’s essential to clean them regularly to prevent damage.
How long does linseed oil last on wood outside?
Tung oil and linseed oil are oil finishes that require regular reapplication to maintain their appearance and protection. Tung oil is best for indoor use, as it is more durable, easier to maintain, and takes less time to apply. It is best to reapply tung oil when the wood looks dried and lackluster, and linseed oil should be reapplied at least once a year, depending on the surface’s volume of use. Both oils require more reapplication depending on the finished surface’s use.
Tung oil is generally better in appearance, less yellowed, easier to maintain, and more durable than linseed oil. However, raw linseed oil is cheaper and still provides a quality natural finish, especially if the preference is for satin over matte.
How many coats of linseed oil to waterproof wood?
To achieve a beautiful satin finish on wood, sand the surface with 120 grit sanding paper and dust it. Mix the first coat with a mild solvent, such as citrus solvent or odorless thinner, and apply it with a brush, roller, or cloth. Wipe the surface to remove excess oil 10 to 15 minutes after application. Apply 2-3 coats at 12 to 24 hours intervals for proper protection. For an ultra soft touch finish, apply a light sanding with 600 or 800 grit sandpaper or a 000000 fine steel wool at least 24 hours after the last coat.
Maintenance should be done once a year or according to the wear of the finish. If the wood looks dry or discolored, reapply a light coat of oil. Clean the surface with a damp cloth, let it dry completely, and apply the oil, wiping off excess oil after 5 minutes. To prevent exothermic reactions, dip oil-soaked rags in water and dispose of them in a plastic bag.
Can you waterproof wood with linseed oil?
Boiled linseed oil is a versatile wood preparation product that functions as a water-resistant sealer for both interior and exterior surfaces. The flexibility of this substance allows it to protect wood from the effects of humidity and seasonal weather, preventing contraction and expansion. The curing or drying process of boiled linseed oil is complete within a timeframe of 24 to 72 hours, which makes it an optimal choice for preparing dry, bare wood surfaces.
How long does linseed oil last on a wood deck?
Linseed oil provides durable protection and enhances the natural beauty of wood surfaces. However, the longevity of this protection is contingent upon the specific wood type, the method of application, and the prevailing environmental conditions. It is recommended that the product be reapplied every six to twelve months to ensure optimal protection.
Can you put too much oil on decking?
To maintain the longevity of your decking, it’s crucial to strike a balance between applying too little oil and too much oil. Over-oiling can lead to staining, discoloration, slipperyness, inadequate drying, and increased maintenance costs. Over-oiling can create a sticky, oily film on the surface, attracting dirt and debris, and darkening the wood. It can also cause the decking to become slippery, especially when wet, posing a safety hazard for children or elderly individuals. Additionally, over-oiling can cause the decking to take longer to dry, creating a sticky surface that attracts dirt and debris. Furthermore, over-oiling can increase maintenance costs.
To ensure the right amount of oil is applied, use Aussie Clear’s oil in two coats, wiping away any excess with a clean cloth. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the specific oil you’re using, as some products may require multiple coats or a different application method. Ideally, oil your hardwood timber decking every 12 months, depending on the level of exposure to the elements. If the decking appears dry or faded, reapply the oil. However, if the decking still looks good, there’s no need to overdo it.
What are the disadvantages of using linseed oil on wood?
Linseed oil is a non-drying oil made from the pressing of dried ripe seeds of the flax plant. It is not suitable for wood as it takes time to dry, and it lacks UV inhibitors. It can support mildew growth and may not harden sufficiently on surfaces with frequent abrasion. Boiled linseed oil is processed by oxidation or adding metallic thinners to speed up its drying time. Pure linseed oil is not suitable for wood and may be available in health-food stores.
📹 How to Use Boiled Linseed Oil BLO and Paste Wax Wood Finish How To Apply
Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax finish is one of my favorite Wood Finishes. it is fast and easy to apply and provides a great …
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR MORE RESOURCES RELATED TO THIS article▼ ★THIS article WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ M-Power’s really innovative tools: m-powertools.com/ Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around! (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) Links promised in this article: -Comprehensive sanding tutorial article: youtu.be/qDYPGgjQmF4 -More finishing articles: youtube.com/playlist?list=PL-gT7JMZFYje9AEX4bPTmWUZV9qyZRYi9 -More articles on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★ -Digital Caliper: amzn.
My Grandfather used to use a home made concoction of boiled linseed oil, turpentine, and bees wax. You mix equal amounts of oil and turpentine and then add an equal amounts of melted beeswax in a glass jar with a lid. Cap the jar and place it in a sunny window or any other place that will keep it warm for a day. This will allow the beeswax to be totally dissolved. To apply wipe it on the wood surface, wait 15 minutes, and buff it out. Another variation is to use 50/50 carnauba wax with bees wax if you wish to and then combine it as an equal part to the turpentine linseed mixture. Grandfather told me that the turpentine acted as a carrier to thin the bees wax so that it would penetrate into the wood fibres instead of just coating the surface of the wood.
Gunsmiths have for many years used a boiled linseed oil finish on wood furniture on firearms. The application process could not be easier: place a few drops of oil on the sanded-smooth wood, and use 600-grit paper to rub it in. The paper generates a slurry of wood dust and oil that fills the pores and levels the surface. Multiple applications over several days creates a glass-smooth surface that is completely weatherproof. The finish looks a foot deep. And if the wood gets scratched, repeat the process over the damaged area and the repair is virtually invisible.
As a professional finisher for many years, I can tell you that boiled linseed oil sanded in with 600 grit on the 1st coat, sanded in with 1000 grit on the 2nd coat, followed by 1 or more straight linseed oil and after curing for 4 or more days, apply any good paste wax does makes a very elegant finish, If boiled linseed oil finish is used in a high humidity area like a bathroom, or in the cabin of a boat, or anywhere in Florida, the finish will mildew horrendously. Boiled linseed oil is a food source for mildew, and requires a high degree of maintenance to prevent mildew from growing. Thanks again for the great articles.
As a firefighter please advise your followers that “Boiled Linseed Oil generates heat as it dries, which can cause the spontaneous combustion of materials contacted by this product. Oily rags, waste, and other oily materials contacted by Boiled Linseed Oil can cause spontaneous combustion fires if not handled properly”. Place oily rags into metal containers, or layout to ventilate so heat does not build up. Thanks. John. P
Been doing this for over 50 years. Tung oil also works quite well. If I want deeper penetration I mix in some natural citrus based solvent that “carries” the oil deep into the wood and then evaporates. These two oils are good to use on cutting boards because they are non-toxic. Tung and Linseed oil are considered to be “drying” oils, but they don’t actually dry, they polymerize when exposed to the air. All oil based paints used to be based on linseed oil before alkaloids came around, and it is still used today. Especially in artists’ oil paints. I have about 20 antique quart cans of boiled linseed oil that I picked up for free at my local county “hazardous waste recycling center” over the years. The younger generations find it in grandpa’s garage and don’t know what it is. A lot of the Danish Oil Finishes like Watco are linseed oil mixed with a solvent and some stain. Anyone can make their own for a lot less cost. Tung oil is traditionally used on marine applications (teak wood). References to tung oil turn up as early as 400 B.C. in the writings of Confucius. Chinese sailors used it to waterproof their ships’ timbers, and mixed with mortar it is still used today to caulk boats. Linseed oil that is not “boiled” will not “dry”. The un-boiled Linseed Oil is used to make window glazing putty because it stays pliable for a long long time. Glazing putty needs to stretch and shrink with the temperature swings. Boiled Linseed Oil mixed with fine crushed limestone was used by the old-timers to fill nail and knot holes in wood.
This formula is similar to one we were required to use 30 years ago on some millwork, made of Cypress, which we were restoring on one of the Spanish Missions in San Antonio years ago. The National Park Service historian gave me the recipe, which consisted of 1 gal boiled linseed oil, 1 qt of turpentine, and 1 oz of beeswax. Melt the wax into the blended oil and turpentine, and apply 2-3 coats. My painter liked this product so much that he used it for the rest of his life (20 years), said it was better than anything on the market. Over time, he modified it slightly by increasing the turpentine to 1 gal, making it a 1-to-1 mix, and substituting paraffin for the beeswax.
As a novice woodworker I have been finishing my projects nearly exactly in this way, but with danish oil (which is just linseed+something else) with paste wax on top. I thought I was breaking some major rules since I hadn’t seen this combo from any of the usual YouTube woodworking suspects, but I kept doing it since I was getting great results. Thanks for codifying my approach!
For a really smooth finish I would like to share a tip I got from a specialist paint store Duller&Co. After applying and letting it soak in, lightly hand sand with 800 grit wet & dry paper. The wet sanding removes the lifted fibres due to the oiling. Depending on how hard the wood, you can get extremely smooth finishes.
An old wooden boat restorer recommends that the linseed oil be applied after being heated. I bought a small crock pot from a thrift store and tried it. The heated oil seemed to be absorbed faster and apparently deeper than at room temperature. One more thing, the linseed oil soaked rags are very susceptible to ignition, so dispose of them with care.
Hey, even I can do that! Another great article how-to. You cover the essentials in a clear, understandable, useful way. perusal the sanding article is definitely a good matching with this one. Together they make for a simple and foolproof way to put a beautiful finish on a project. I agree with you fully – nothing features the beauty of the wood like this finish! Thanks for another excellent (pair of) articles!!
My Dad was a great fan of boiled linseed oil but I discovered Tried and True Danish Oil and much prefer it. Tried and True is a polymerized linseed oil that I much prefer to boiled linseed oil. You can recoat in 8 hours. I do three coats and often stop there but if I want to add a wax I use beeswax plus Danish oil paste that I make myself since, as a beekeeper, I have lots of pure beeswax to use.
I don’t know if this will help any other newbies out there, but I tried this with some pine I bought at a big box hardware store, and it worked but it did take at least 5 applications of the oil before it really started to remain wet after 15 min. I later read that pine has a high “porosity” and is very absorbent of stains, oils, etc. so I think that’s what I ran into here.
I recently made my own wood finish by mixing terpentine, bees wax and boiled linseed oil in equal parts (actually a bit more wax) in a container and letting it sit for a day. It all mixes very well and I put it on for a final sheen after “soaking” the wood in boiled linseed oil once, like you showed here.
I have used Tru-Oil from Birchwood Casey for years. It is basically boiled linseed oil with proprietary driers in it that make it dry faster. I can add a coat after one day of drying. It was designed to use on gun stocks, so it is a tough finish. I have never put wax on it. I get a semi-gloss finish after 3 – 4 coats. I soak the wood with the oil and wipe off the extra. Then, I wait for a half hour to an hour for it to stop being tacky, but not totally dry, and I buff it with a rough cloth to make it shine.
I’ve found the best wax isn’t a commercial product but a natural beeswax polish I learned to make from my Dad, who learnt it from his Dad. The beeswax penetrates the wood to seal it and with a couple of coats forms a natural surface polish Beeswax melted into turpentine (not white spirit) is an ancient recipe. Experiment with the proportions until you get a consistency you like. It doesn’t matter about dust in the air, either. A couple of coats and a bit of dust is the start of a patina that you only get on old furniture that’s been polished over several decades.
For wax a tip is to use a hair drier, not a heat gun, too much heat, to gently warm the top surface of the wood, allowing the wax to soak deeper into the fibres. That then also flashes off the solvent, so buffing after gives a nice instant shine, though you can go back later on and buff again. I prefer a dull finish of plain wood over shiny, so use a mix of linseed and furniture oil, so that the finish is durable and easy to touch up, though the wood does get darker with time.
I just finished a little cribbage board / game box for a vacation rental condo we have. I know it’s going to get beat up, but don’t really care about that. I finished it with cutting board finish that I bought at a big box store. It says it’s made up of mineral Oil, carnuba wax and Bees wax. I’d be interested in other’s thoughts on this idea.
I knew it! We both love to wax our wood! That must be what draws me to your articles so strongly; waxing wood! Wait! That came out wrong! Eh, screw it I actually really do love waxing my wood and I don’t care who knows it. I have used the famous yellow cans (pink or tan inside) and every citrus organic beeswax amalgamation available and I will definitely be using more. It’s an honest game changer. Nothing makes someone smile faster than “feeling grain” through a wax finish. (I know it’s a stretch but that’s what people say when you hand them a gift with a wax finish) Thank you as always James! -CY Castor
This is interesting. Its very similar to another old finish I have been using for years. Using pure turpentine and real bees wax, you melt the wax and dissolve it in the turpentine while stirring. 1/3 of wax per volume to 2/3 of turpentine. You can dissolve more wax or less wax, depending how thick you want it to be. If it is runny enough it will penetrate fairly well. Then you can use a shoe brush to give it some shine after it is dry. If you increase the wax to turpentine ratio, you can also get a paste, which doesn’t penetrate much though.
I have been using this finish for 60yrs and was introduced to it by a very old gunsmith. I thin it a bit with turps and also ad oil based artist tints to give colour to what shade I want. Also I rub each coat down with 0000 steel wool that burnishes the surface. The best tint I have found that gives the most beautiful shades is burnt umber available in any arts store. The trick is to rub a spot until it gets hot and move on. This acts to polymerize the finish a bit with each application. For a truly stunning finish I apply and rub down about 8 times leaving at least 24hrs before hitting it again. What I do is called a hand rubbed oil finish and takes this simple finish to exceptional quality. Its hard work but you will only ever have to do it once. I usually top it off with paste wax too.
Linseed oil followed by wax is indeed one of the most beautiful wood finishes, i 100% agree with you. The only thing that I disagree about is that wax adds protection, it makes the wood surface beautiful to the eye and touch, better then wax or oil alone, but wax never hardens, just turns to its natural hardness as the solvent used to make it a paste evaporates, but nothing more. Boiled linseed oil actually hardens, there is a polymerization process caused by the oxygen and the UV rays of the light, or at least the oil that is at the surface polymerizes, the part deeply soaked in the wood fibers maybe not, or maybe needs months to do it, I am not sure. Actually using a high enough number of oil coats, that have to be applied only when the previous one has polymerized, and that is the reason why you have to wait a couple of days before doing it, as you correctly told, you can protect even wood that is used outdoors, after 15 or 20 coats it will even form a film over the wood surface similar to the one of the poly finishes, as strong but different, it resembles more the french polishing using shellac. Maybe a single oil coat is not enough to give full protection, but IMHO gives more protection then the wax that you can apply over it.
I’m just beginning in woodworking I’ve done a few minor projects, getting ready to start my first big build (for me, anyway) a workbench with a laminated 2×4 top. I think I remember you saying your based in Michigan, I’m in the metro Detroit area (ann arbor), any recommendations on where to get straight, dry 2x4s, 4x4s etc? I’m not getting into hardwoods yet and not looking to spend a lot, but I’ll pay for straight softwood boards. Trying to avoid Home Depot/Lowe’s their wood is terrible for projects
Thank you for your ever interesting articles. Two things: this type of coating requires future maintenance. Shellac for example does not. But indeed is a layer on top of the wood. Also: linseed oil soaked cloths can spontaneously combust. So they should be rinsed or disposed of carefully. You don’t want your workshop on fire.
Barns are traditionally red because a hundred or more years ago, paints were not widely available. Farmers used BLO and added ferrous oxide (rust) to discourage insects and fungi, which turned the mixture red. BTW, as you probably know, despite its name, boiled linseed oil is not boiled. Keep the great info coming!
WARNING!: The cloth used with linseed oil can self-ignite, so it must be stored in an airtight can or under water after use. I use linseed oil as much as possible when treating wood. At first treatment, I heat the wood and then apply the oil in a thick layer. The heat makes the oil thinner and when the wood and the air in the wood cools down, it will absorb more oil.
When using linseed oil you should always mention the fire hazard rags drenched in the product pose, when crumpled up. Especially on warmer days scalding can occur in those rags, which eventually can lead to spontaneous combustion. Therefore, always leave rags used for linseed oil outside, and fold them out to dry, before you throw ‘m in the bin.
I have a question for you James. We have a knotty pine, tongue and groove, plank ceiling, and a storm with heavy blowing rain in just the wrong direction allowed water to infiltrate and cause some staining in an area of the ceiling. Is there something I can use, like denatured alcohol or other solvent, that would be likely to get rid of the stain without making things worse? The planks appear to be pretty raw. There’s no finish on them that I can detect, though I imagine they were oiled originally. Any suggestions?
You can also use tung oil,.which is said to dry harder. or walnut oil-available in health food or good grocery stores-which was used by artists in their oil point because it dries clear. Gunsmiths use a product called Tru-oil, which works very well on walnut. Knife and gun product suppliers carry it. you can use many coats of any oil- let the first one soak in and dry for several days, then each succeeding coat will take less oil and dry faster. what i sued to do for walnut knife handles was to set them in a can of boiled linseed oil and turpentine overnight. It would penettrate about 3/16 or 1/4″ and protect the wood.
It is important to keep the used rags with linseed oil in a sealed or fireproof container, or even soak them in water, as they can self ignite. This happens because boiled linseed oil goes through an exothermic reaction when it oxidizes and if bundled together, it can produce enough heat to ignite paper towels, sawdust and other flammable materials. I know it’s probably common knowledge by now, but it feel it’s something that should be said, every time boiled linseed oil is used, because it really is a hazard and one that can really catch you by surprise.
Most beginning craft woodworkers back in the 70s quickly discovered the ease of application and good looks of a boiled linseed oil finish, and almost as quickly discovered they had to protect it with paste wax. (Paste wax is a good idea over ANY finish, by the way.) Few of those woodworkers went on to discover the drawbacks of an oil finish. I was lucky. I worked as a furniture and wooden objects conservator for 18 years through the 80s and 90s, so I had a chance to learn the science behind all sorts of finishes and saw hundreds of examples of old furniture with old finishes still more or less intact. One thing stands out… when a linseed oil finish gets old enough it turns black and sticky, and there’s no way to stop it from doing so. The reason is simple. The long-chain molecules that are part of any oil break down under the influence of light and heat. The chains get shorter and shorter, and as they do so the finish gradually dims and gets less protective. Eventually the sticky parts harden as they too break down, and then you’ve got an impenetrable mess of opaque ugliness which only chemicals or abrasion will remove. Nobody who builds a few pieces for themselves or for friends will ever see this happen, of course, because it takes decades. But if their work is good enough and liked enough to survive, it will happen. The solution, of course, is to avail ourselves of all those improvements made to finish products over the decades. They’re called improvements for a reason, ya know.
I love the fact that different finishes have different outcomes and values to them. I went with shellac for my mitre saw station (oak veneer fire doors as the bench tops), and used that same product for the first coat of my mobile project table (1/2″ plywood base under 3/4″ MDF), using a satin finish poly as the finish on the MDF. What a gorgeous, tough work surface. Such a different story if you’re working with actual fine wood though.
After a light coat I warm paste wax and mix a little more linseed oil in it to get a softer wax then apply a very thin layer. I do both applications with a finger and wipe off with a soft cotton cloth. The fire hazard is mentioned in the comments. Yes it can self combust and so can a bale of hay as heat is generated during the breakdown process BUT… I was a firefighter for many years and never saw it happen or ran a fire because of either of these events. We also used linseed oil on our tools. After 18 yrs of never having a linseed oil fire we were given special storage containers for oily rags… yes it can happen… I wouldn’t hold my breath waiting for it….
Even though I don’t have a shop to work in I still love perusal these types of articles; I had to chop the mortis better for a door striker plate so the door would actually close correctly and it made me long to just have a piece of wood to chisel on some more… Hey James, would you do a article on whitewash wood finishes? It was my dad’s favorite when he was alive (he was primarily a carpenter that specialized in making custom kitchen cabinets).
Watco Danish oil is my go to for large projects while my self-made shellac is my go to for anything smaller than amazon shipping box then wax on as a final coat unless it’s a high polish. I want to try the rubio mono-coat and the other well known ones, but they’re just a bit to expensive for my taste.
Is there an easily sourced version that is natural linseed oil? I know you can get little bottles for oil painting that is just pure linseed oil, but I heard that BLO is chemically treated linseed oil with other chemical dryers, penetrants and heavy metals added. Have I misunderstood? While I like the look of boiled linseed oil (haven’t tried adding wax yet) if it has those other things in it, I’m hesitant to put it on a lot of my projects which currently are either toys for children (old enough ones that shouldn’t be putting random things in their mouth, but often do) or little knick knacks that while aren’t meant for children at all, will probably eventually end up in the hands, then mouths of ones. I know poly in far from natural, but my understanding is once hardened, it is safe for children and won’t come off (into mouths or hands) without physically grinding or sanding etc, in which case you’d have the wood too. Any help on this topic, greatly appreciated. One of few websites I actually get into comments to see what people say as I learn so much, Thanks!
I used boiled linseed oil and wax on the kitchen cabinets I made for my home. Granted, it looked good when it was initially done. The problem is wax requires constant maintenance. The odds are you’re not going to do it. At least not as often as it needs to be done. I finally stripped all the wax using alcohol and refinished with polyurethane. I am much happier with the polyurethane look.
I once refinished a walnut rifle stock by making a vacuum chamber out of 4″ PVC pipe and covering the stock completely with linseed oils, then maintaining 10 to 12 in/Hg vacuum for about a week, which pretty much ensured the oil penetrated the entire piece of wood to its core. But the following week, I was wiping it 7-8 times a day EVERY day until it stopped weeping. I then cured it in a 200F oven for about 9 hours and it is as weatherproof as a synthetic stock, but far more attractive, and the extra weight makes it a far more stable piece.
I’d encourage those of you who are curious about trying different finishes to also try raw linseed oil. I especially like using it for things like cutting boards or handles of things that you handle with your bare hands a lot because you can get food grade oil that gives you an extra assurance that it does not have toxic components added to it. Most all boiled linseed oil unless it states otherwise uses chemical driers that are somewhat toxic (there are several brands that offer BLO that is supposed to be free of those and is food safe). According to a manufacturer I talked to years ago even some raw linseed oil has chemical separators in it and they told me not to use their raw linseed oil on bowls, cutting boards etc that would be used for food prep. I buy a high quality culinary “flax seed oil” from Barleans (linseed oil is from the flax plant). It’s expensive enough that you don’t want to use it on big projects but for small cutting boards etc it’s not bad. The downside is that it is PAINFULLY slow to dry and even more so if it is put on thick. But that downside is also an upside in the sense that it is so slow to cure that it has lots of time to soak deeply into the wood. I know a guy who was friends with an older British guy who was trained as a woodworker way back in the day when wooden hand planes were used commercially and he wouldn’t use anything but raw linseed oil on his planes for exactly that reason. If he was rehabing a wooden plane that had been abused he would turn it on its end so the wood grain was vertical and put it in a container with a half inch of raw linseed oil and let it sit there and slowly pull the oil up through its fibers and apparently it would suck quite a bit up.
A more modern way to do this for better durability without reverting to hardwax oils is to use a homebrew tung oil and boiled linseed 50/50 mixed with a little turps and rubbed well in. I personally like to use Liberon fine finishing oil which is a blend of oils as depending on the number of coats can give a satin sheen to gloss finish. Leave to dry and apply a second coat wiping excess off after 10 minutes. Repeat, building coats up at one per day for 7 coats. Finally finish with a mix of carnuaba and beeswax in a low solvent base. I like Liberon black bison wax. Rub wax in well and leave for 20 minutes then buff. Do the same for three or 4 days and you have a beautiful finish.
A finish that is hard to mess up, you say… perhaps even foolproof… you have my attention. All kidding aside, I am a devotee of the church of BLO. I haven’t tried the wax part yet, so this will be fun. I have a project I am finishing right now and plan to BLO, so it will be a perfect chance to try out the wax.
Better to make your own boiled oil i use flaxseed oil as its quite clean anyway and boil it in a water bath for two or three hours and then let it settle any mucilage you can separate this is the gluey tacky content of linseed oil as they used to do back in the day i believe the old methods are still the best and it dries and is taken up easily by the wood.
I did a laminated gun stock with tung oil. First I did it with just the thick coat and let it dry for a week, and 0000 steel wool and it came out to the most beautiful satin finish. It felt amazing too. I should have left it like that, but I went for another coat, and it came out a really nice semi gloss, but for a gun I should have stopped at the first coat. I like Tung oil now. Just have to really wait a long time for it to dry
I just realized that the walnut blanket chest I made as a senior at Kent State is 50 years old! I made it for the girl who would become my wife. I used boiled linseed oil and turpentine mixed 50/50, just as Mr. Heasley taught us in Woods 2. I’m looking at it in our living room now, and it still looks beautiful! N.E.OH Bob
You know what young person? Soak the surface of wood (oak, ash, pine, cedar, fir, apitong, etc.) in water until the grain rises. Let it dry. Sand down the raised grain with 320 until the fuzz disappears. Warm the wood thoroughly in an oven (200 degrees for two hours for a gunstock — about an hour per 1″ wood/specie stock thickness) — Remove from heat source — soak with 100% tung oil (don’t use something that says ‘contains tung oil’) — put it again into the oven and watch uhtil what appears to be any dry spots. If so, add some more tung oil there because these are the more absorbent spots in the wood. Forty years ago I did my Winchester 94 rifle stock using this process and it looks like you can look into the wood as you turn it in your hands. And the stock wood is nice but not the best so far as figuring because of factory wood stock. (also. my rifle was purchased in 1982, so your stock wood has to be different due to the intervening years. But regardless, give it a try. I think you will be pleased with the result.)
Question for you Stumpy: from what I can tell, most paste waxes are a mixture of wax and oil (usually raw or boiled linseed oil) with some sort of solvent (like turpentine). Is this true for the wax that you’re using in the article? So essentially, you’re adding extra oil on top of the dried/drying oil. I assume you put the first layer of oil on to really soak into the wood.
Is there any risk if I applied this sort of finish to a bookshelf, that the finish might… leach into the books or anything like that? I don’t know if it makes sense to be worried about something like that, I’m just picturing books sitting on that surface for extended periods of time and something happening.
BLO is a great looking low key finish. Easy to manage and maintain. Years ago after fixing an antique hutch/sideboard door, I had to reapply the second oldest finish known to cabinet and furniture Makers:. The equal parts of BLO, beeswax, and turpentine, warmed and blended in a double boiler affair…. Electric heat I seriously add!!! The British had Wax pellets for “tinting” the color of the finish. Applied “hot” or, good and warm with a boars bristle brush gave a great finish back to the old sideboard. It was a pain in the back side, etc. I haven’t used it since. I may if I make a period piece, other wise it’s BLO or anything modern!!!
I finish walnut gun stocks with linseed oil and mineral spirits. I wrap a partial sheet of 200 grit sandpaper in a 1 1/2″ x 3″ firm rubber block. Not hard, but stiff enough to bridge and protect softer layers in the grain pattern. My first application is the 200 grit paper and a 50-50 mix of Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) and Mineral Spirits (MS) sanding with the grain. Once I have the sanded the entire stock with one pass, I let the stock sit for 15 minutes and then wipe the oil off ACROSS the grain. The I set the stock aside, in a manner that allows the entire stock to dry evenly, for 48 hours. From there on I use the same technique but adjust the percentage of BLO and MS down by 10. 60 BLO to 40 MS. I also adjust the sandpaper to a grit that is 200 finer. I continue that reduction pattern of the oil to MS and sandpaper size. All steps are sand with the grain, rest 15 min, wipe across grain, dry for 48 hours. At 90-10 I use 1200 sandpaper. Then I go to 95-5 BLO and 1600 paper. After the 95-5 48 hour dry step I do one more sanding with 100% BLO. After that step and 48 hour dry I simply work 100% linseed oil in with my hands for about a half hour warming the oil and the wood with my hands. Again a 15 minute dry and wipe, this time with the grain. This is a two week project with 7 sanded coats and one sealed coat. The depth of the finish is incomparable. Be it a gun stock or another project it is worth the time and patience. I have also seen this done with hard maple with similar results.
Do you have any experience with/experience finding “polymerized” linseed oil? I’m finishing projects that need to be food-safe and that may be accidentally left in hot liquids that may be eaten/drunk, so finishes with chemical dryers (boiled linseed and danish oils) seem like a bad idea. The polymerized oil seems like a nicer, faster-dryer version of pure linseed oil, but I haven’t seen it around as much and I’m curious if I’m misubderstanding its uses.
I learned this technique from a dear friend who also happens to be a master craftsman. If you were to look up the definition of “Renaissance Man”, his face would appear. Rocking chairs, custom lamps, hand made rice paper, stained glass, brews his own whiskey, etc. Completely Zen as well, gave me the self confidence to pursue my ambitions when he said, “You have all the skills, you just have to decide on what you want.” One of the most profound realizations I have had in my 50+ years. I turned a small piece of curly maple while I was visiting and used the very same technique to finish the project. The only difference is that he uses colored waxes instead of paste wax. I was stunned at how the piece turned out and my wife absolutely loved it. Thank you for sharing this wonderful finishing technique 👍 I have since used it for several projects and have absolutely loved the results. The recipients of said gifts have been thrilled as well. I look forward to using this technique on many future projects.
I could not AGREE MORE ABOUT THIS ONE ITEM MENTIONED HERE! DO NOT LEAVE A LOT OF OIL ON YOUR PROJECT OR THE RAGS! I refinished my staircase and did exactly as mentioned left it overnight. I woke up in the morning to a house full of smoke couldn’t figure out where it was coming from until I picked up a rag and burned my hand because it was starting to get ready to combust! The rag was white and had already started to turn brown from the heat and found out that it was possible for the boiled linseed oil to combust all on its own! To my horror I realized what my rookie mistake was. Just as I was starting to figure all this out I realized that the entire stairway was starting to smoke! I immediately grabbed a fire extinguisher while grabbing fresh towels and started to wipe the entire staircase down which as mentioned had become gummy and hot while trying to remove it without adding a highly volatile fluid like alcohol or other product to break it down was incredibly difficult! REMEMBER! WIPE ON AND REMOVE EXCESS AND THEN EITHER WASH THE RAGS WITH SOAP AND WATER OUTSIDE OR PLACE THEM IN A AIR-TIGHT CONTAINER! Sorry for the all caps but I can’t tell you how important this is so that your entire WOOD shop filled with your hard working projects reside don’t go up in flames!
I just needed to know how to do a “touch-up,” you squeezed it in right at someone’s bitter end (5:39 – 6:00). Thank you, this article was a blast! Certainly added perspective towards of the slew of similar negative comments, overwhelmed with anger at their ‘finished’ results (a lot of ‘wood never drying, and rancid gassy fumes’ 🫣😬). While others ‘finished’ splendidly. See ya! Well, going to watch the ‘sanding tutorial’ first.
I made my own cutting board finish using 50/50 beeswax and carnauba wax then 4 to 1 ratio with food grade mineral oil and finish with a couple of ounces of lemon essential oil as an antimicrobial. It gives me a beautiful finish and a hard wax that I also use on my jointer bed, drill press table, wood handle screwdrivers, and other tools. I use that stuff on everything.
If you fail to wipe off the linseed oil enough, and end up with a gooey film, no problem! Simply wet some 0000 steel wool with mineral spirits, and rub the film out to a liquid, then you can wipe it off. This happened to me, and after the steel wool and mineral spirits treatment, it turned out awesome. Spend a lot of time rubbing the oil in, and spreading it from the less absorbent parts of the wood to the more absorbent. End grain will often soak up an astonishing amount of oil. Just keep piling it on. I like Danish Oil too. If you like to sand between coats however, be sure to wait at least a week before sanding (may vary depending on environmental conditions), or it will instantly clog up your sandpaper. Even then, use light pressure and clean your sandpaper often using a belt sander eraser (this work on your sanding block too). Using this method, you can get as much luster as you want by adding more applications. With six applications or more, sanding in between, you can end up with a gloss finish. It takes several weeks, but it’s impossible to screw it up, and a little dust is no problem, except for your last coat only
Please tell me, how immersing a walking cane in mineral oil for 48 hours will affect the linseed oil final finish? Master Cane Designer Keith Melton said they do this for their canes before the finishing with several layers of “tongue” oil, but I’m sure there’s a catch! How could I prevent it from going sticky (I would use “boiled” linseed oil rather than tung oil).
Can you compare this type of finish and ingredients to Odie’s Oil products? I BET it’s a heck of a lot cheaper, but I wonder about things like: are the solvents in the paste wax toxic in any way (in comparison to Odie’s solvent which is claimed to be completely non-toxic)? You mentioned you wouldn’t finish a tabletop with the boiled linseed oil/paste wax duo…why? I’ve seen Odie’s Oil finished table tops clean up with no stains even after water and other staining liquids have been left to sit on top of them for up to an hour. I’ve been inclined to try Odie’s oil products, but they’re so darned expensive and I’ve suspected they’re made with boiled linseed oil and waxes…exactly what you use in this article. If it’s a superior and more durable finish to what you’ve done here then I’ll spring for it. But if it’s just marked up linseed oil and paste wax combo I’d prefer to use the original products at likely a fraction of the price! Thanks a lot.
Here’s a nice recipe for you – 2 heaped tablespoons of beeswax and 1/cup of coconut oil. Put in a double boiler (I put my 1l saucepan over my 2l saucepan with the water level just touching the bottom of the 1l saucepan.) Melt both items together. Give it a bit of a whipping with one of those coffee milk frothing whisk things. Pour into a container. Use it on your wood. Use it on your lips. Use it on your scruffy heels, your baby’s bottom. Don’t apply it with a cloth – use your hands, wiping over onto the back of your hands every now and then. Then buff your wooden item with a soft cloth. I made my first wooden spoon a coupke of weeks back and it was starting to look dry from being in my tea. Looks lovely now!
Thank for your helpful articles, ? I am making floater picture frames out of pine.I liked the idea of colored paste wax . Some frames I want natural and others a cherry finish . I am wanting a finish that looks good but can be repaired if the painting doesn’t sell right away and it gets damaged somewhere. I also watched ENcurtis. article called the only wood finish I use a mix of polyurethane, turpentine and finishing oil, 3 coats drying in between and then wax with finishing oil and turpentine. Sounds good but I want a slight cherry color to a few frames. What would you recommend? Thank you
Ah – bolied linseed oil. Great for new stuff, but I had the pleasure of removing it from a lovely old oak table that had been stripped back and treated with boiled linseed on it. Seriously unsympathetic stuff but nice if you are a bit niche amd want your oak to look amber.. Dishwashing detergent and a couple of light showers did it.
Thank you for this clear and simple explanation of finishing. I do have a couple of questions. Is this finish appropriate for a plywood workbench top? After applying the linseed oil, how long should you wait before applying the paste wax? How does this compare with using a hardwax oil finish? And finally, could teak oil work as well as linseed oil? Thanks, Liz
A few comments – questions really. I’m fortunate to have acquired a block of genuine bees wax. I imagine in times gone by this was at the go to choice ?? Would you recommend this as an alternative to your store bought white stuff ? Back in the 1960’s it was common to have hardwood floors in the home – blocks, or the newer lathes. These would notoriously turn yellow in time. Any reasons anybody ? How is important is water content of the wood in this process ? OR since you are only treating one surface does WC matter at all ?
I recently made a small jewelry box using poplar and Bolivian Rosewood. I tried finishing it with polyurethane. The latter didn’t dry so I ended up wiping the finish with mineral spirits. As I researched the issue I found that oily woods do not soak up finishes well. I assume this is true for boiled linseed oil as well. Your advice?
Thanks,I made a canoe paddle and finished it with boiled linseed oil leaving on a generous coating. It wouldn’t dry and acted like fly paper for the local insects. 😔 Now I see I should have wiped it down afterwards,let it dry then use paste wax. Even then I get the idea the oil/wax finish may not be durable enough for a paddle. Is there a natural finish that would be better? I make my own pitch glue and other products. The pitch glue is absolutely homogenous with Bohning hot melt glue for archery. Absolutely great to glue on broadheads and inexpensive. Pitch doesn’t really need to be mixed with hot melt. It just amuses me to do it.
!n 1962 I refinished a gun stock Birch I think, with about 10 hand rubbed coats of linseed oil. I have used that gun for all the years since and it has a hard but smooth finish that doesn’t show scratches and repels water quite well. In the old days linseed oil was used as a water proofer on everything from hats to ground sheets which makes me wonder where you got you’re information about linseed oil? Wood soaked in linseed oil will survive being left outside for long periods of time which is why it is used on tool handles. Maybe you should do a little more research and get your facts straight.
CAUTION: the boiled linseed oil when exposed to light and air undergoes to polymerization, a chemical reaction where smaller molecules are bonded together forming longer and stronger chains of atoms. That reaction is exothermic, it produces heat, enough heat that the paper or cloths that are used to remove the excess of oil if left packed together can self ignite and be a serious fire hazard. It is not a woodworker myth, it does not happens often, but it happens, for sure it happened years ago to a friend of mine. Please be aware of that and never leave packed together or put directly in the trash can the pieces of cloth or paper used to remove the excess of oil, soak them in water or hang them like you would do with the laundry so the heat produced is not trapped, it is a very important safety rule to follow. Once the polymerization has happened the paper is no more at risk of self igniting.
In the Army, we’d light the can of wax then use the lid to snuff the fire out. A wire coat hanger made a handle. Then we poured the melted liquid wax on the floor. We used the brush head on the buffer to spread and apply the wax. Then put a towel under the buffer brush head to polish the floor. I’ve heard the current boiled linseed oil available today, is not the same formula as the old boiled linseed oil.
It’s absolutely my favorite finish! Now While I don’t use boiled linseed oil or paste wax, I get a extremely similar effect with beeswax+coconut and walnut oil. As an a learning carver, I didn’t want the responsibility of looking after potentially hazardous finishes. I never gave much though to application, thanks for show that!!!👌🏽👍🏽
James, thanks as always for the helpful hints. I’ve learned a lot from your website! Regarding todays presentation, I wanted to ask if boiled linseed oil is the only oil recommended for this style of finish? Could I use Danish oil, Tung oil or Teak oil in place of boiled linseed oil? I’m just curious – I have a few older open cans of other oils and just wondered if they might work the same as your lesson today. Thanks again and stay safe.
When I was an apprentice carpenter I had to do a spell in the joiners shop where I was shown that pre varnishing hardwood I had to sand it down to an acceptable finish and then leave it to one side and Poor boiling water over it, this would raise the grain, and then when dry sand it down again, then when the varnish was applied or waxing In this case you will get a very fine finish which would not raise again after waxing as the grain has already risen .
I heat beeswax until liquid, mix with linseed(wax aprox 60-70%). As it cools, just before coagulation I add about 10-20% turps so it wont fully solidify, then buff it into the wood. Can soak huge amounts into wood, keeps out door hard wood looking amazing. Not so stable under direct sunlight but in the shade it can last years without fading
I was thinking of using BLO&wax for a tabletop (rationale, easy to touch up). I will be able to treat the tabletop before assembly, but it will be difficult to access afterwards. Do I need to worry about changes in moisture content in the wood from atmospheric humidity that could cause the table top to warp? Or, is BLO breathable enough that the moisture content will be consistent? Many thanks
I did not notice a safety warning that I was taught mant decades ago – after using linseed oil, lay out any rags, towels or paper wipes flat for a day or two, to allow them to completely dry. If they are left wadded up in a trash can, they can spontaneously combust (BURN) because linseed oil curing is an exothermic reaction. Have modern linseed oils changed? Or have flax growers found a way to make safer seeds (that the oil is pressed from)?
Very interesting. What would you suggest for an outside 30×30″ square bar table on a post that sits next to our pool that will be left outside in sun and rain until Canadian winter when it will come inside? I’m always trying to figure out whats best for outside elements. I’d like something that will soak in.
Could you recommend a finish for some greenhouse shelving please? I’ve torched the wood and will b hoping to colour stain and waterproof with a clear finish. I’m concerned about fumes and odours, especially it being a hot greenhouse, is there a finish that would be odour free and safe but be able to waterproof the wood? I will b spending a lot of time in there….I hope lol
Thanks for the article, great tips. I just started using this stuff again on my carvings. Great finish. I burn my boiled linseed oil rags immediately in my fire pit. A few years ago I had some rags started to smoke and were burning after I went back to my workshop. Spontaneous combustion is a real thing.
I stopped using Pledge, and started using liquid gold. That seems to help the wood, but, some cabinets, paneling, just looks dry still after just a couple of months. I am not trying to create a seal, just trying to “treat” the wood. After perusal, I think I”ll try the paste wax first. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you. Just watched. For a gunstock (walnut), how many coats could/should I put on? Does it matter? How long to dry between coats? Put wax on? Sorry but I was handed this gun stock by my bro in- law who is suffering from ALS and I promised him I would do it. I’ve worked with would before just not BLO. Thanks again!
Have you ever had a problem with the steel wool? I finally tried it on two projects, the first went fine, it was a shelf top and I first applied linseed oil with a rag and then wax after one day with the steel wool. End result was clean and smooth. But with the other project (drill bit organiser) I applied the wax after half an hour and the bits of the wool got stuck in the grain. The wood was european beech, planed smooth, no sanding and the wool was used before. I wondered if the holes for the bits ripped the wool, causing it sheer off and get stuck, but it left residue even on the smooth sides, so maybe the short drying time of linseed oil is at fault. Anyway, great article as always, keep it up!
Thanks for the info. I have 2 questions. 1. In your example, can you put the BLO over paste wax or do you have to strip the wax 1st? 2. As a painting contractor, I encounter projects where cedar, redwood or exotic wood walls are in the house. Would you use your coating method as in this article to achieve a natural look to the walls or do you think it would be a maintenance nightmare? Again, thanks for your article.
I completely agree with choosing BLO for the applications you suggested. It’s an old school solution for a reason – it just works. All of my wooden handle tools are treated with BLO. It’s also my go to finish for workbench tops if I don’t want to alter the natural color of the wood. In this application, paste wax is essential to resist glue from sticking. Thanks for highlighting this simple but elegant finish.
Great article. I just finished a TV tray and used the boiled linseed oil (love the finish that it left). I was going to use a paste wax but after perusal your article am concerned with that not being a strong enough finish since it will be used for an eating table. Thinking I should put a shellac finish over the linseed finish….. Was wondering if you had and idea’s. Thanks again for the informative article Ron
Hi there! I really enjoy perusal your vids and was wondering if you could tell me, in general, how many coats of Boiled Linseed Oil would be recommended to apply on unfinished pine book case I just made… I already applied the first coat, and after 15 min I whipped it with a dry cloth. She looks really nice… Just wondering if I have to apply more coats before waxing. Thank you.
Thanks for this! Great article – I am using BLO on a set of live edge black walnut shelves and was going to paste wax for the finish you showed here in the article. Never done this before, but it’s coming along nicely…. The shelves are for an office but they’re not going to be “high traffic” bookshelves – more ornamental – but I’m still concerned with the end finish and protection due to scratching. Sounds like this combo will be easy to maintain over the years if I do notice any wear, which is why I chose it. That said, however, one other thing comes to mind though: would the BLO/paste wax combo be OK to set books on? After cure and drying of course…. but over time, and if there are changes in temperature of the room, will there be any concerns with any transferral of the wax to the book pages? If so, is there another finish that you would you recommend to put on top of the BLO instead of paste wax?
What about making something more like the hardwax-oils you can buy? I have tried a couple that I like (Osmo, Odie’s) but it should be possible to make something of that nature I think. A wax and oil blend with a honey like consistency that has both qualities in one solution. If you melt some Beeswax and maybe a little bit of Carnuba wax into Boiled Linseed Oil, add a little citrus oil (friendlier turpentine alternative) to make it thinner and also maybe some potassium hydroxite. I’m just theorizing. I was going to try a mix like that but I’ll get into trouble if I do so in the kitchen here.
Interesting. Also just read the comments, lots of discussion. I think I might try experimenting with this. I’ve tried a perlue before and it’s got a nice feel on tools. It’s made in thirds. One part linseed oil heated (carefully ) with one part beeswax. Then take it away from the heat and stir in one part turpentine. Easy to apply – slap on and wipe off and it feels nice in hand. Sorry for post length
I am trying my hand at making wooden rings. For the finish i use BLO two coats of shellac and then a few coats of poly. For the BLO rather than applying more finish every 15 minutes till it is saturated could I just soak the rings in it for 15 min then wipe the excess off or would that be too much? Thank you for all the fantastic tutorials!
The stock of an inherited Remington Model 14-A was finished with BLO and beeswax. In addition to it’s classic color and beauty, the American Walnut stock surprised me because it doesn’t show scratches. I noticed this after an afternoon of bushwhacking through thorny blackberry canes. The wax must be deeply penetrated. I doubt that this is unique to this rifle, as the old timers hunted before there were many roads or trails and therefore must have been seasoned bushwhackers. I always apply linseed oil with a bare hand as the heat from my hand seems to relax the wood allowing for deeper penetration.
I have a wooden bench I just purchased from Home Goods and it has been colored or maybe stained a natural tone. I am hoping to keep it in my garden however I live in Florida and right now we are in the rainy season. I love the bench and it was a babulous price so I am hoping to preserve it as long as I can. Help what can I use to seal it from water? Thank you!!