Bowed exterior walls are a common issue in homes due to the saturation of soil around the foundation, which can cause them to bulge outward. To address this problem, there are several possible solutions, including installing lateral restraints, which provide a permanent fix without the obtrusive work needed with other methods. The goal is to fix the issue, provide strength to the wall, and restore it.
Level 1 refers to fine cracks up to 1mm wide, while Level 2 is crack width up to 5mm, generally easily filled. Outside wall repair might involve some external repointing. Level 3 refers to cracks. If you notice bowing or buckling in your foundation walls, you need to verify the source of the problem and identify structural issues. Wall straightening is a different approach to repairing a buckling wall, requiring excavation and assistance with jacks. Once the wall is fully upright, it needs to be secured.
If the bulging is more than 2 inches, you may need to rebuild the entire facade. Each wall is different depending on the extent of damage, and each wall is different depending on the extent of the damage. In many cases, the corners are tuck-pointed, and relief joints are added. Adding wall anchors is one of the options.
To resolve bowing and buckling, you must find the source of the issue and strengthen your foundation walls so they won’t move as water saturation changes in the surrounding soil. A foundation repair company that uses carbon fiber straps to reinforce the foundation and seal off any cracks using epoxy injection is recommended. Lateral restraints provide structural stability to walls that bulge, bow, or pull away from the structure.
In summary, if your house’s exterior walls are bowing significantly, it’s important to address the issue by repairing the affected area and using lateral restraints for structural stability.
📹 Stucco buckling problems
Stucco buckling problems. Stucco bulging, got milk. Folks, we are located in Oakland, Ca. Howdy Folks, all the basic tools we use …
How do you fix an uneven wall without plastering?
In order to repair wall cracks, it is recommended that joint compound or filler be used, ensuring that the material is flush with the wall and that the surface is sanded down once the compound has dried. Skim repair fillers, which can be rolled on with a roller, provide a smooth finish and repair cracks. It is recommended that the filler be permitted to dry for a period of approximately 12 hours before sanding is undertaken. An orbital sander is the optimal tool for this process. Wall paneling is a popular method for concealing imperfections, and it can be applied to walls to create a smooth, polished appearance.
What does a buckling wall look like?
Bowing and buckling is a condition where the foundation walls in a home are bent or bulging due to hydrostatic pressure from water in the surrounding soil. This movement can be subtle and hard to notice, but can be identified by the presence of cracks in the foundation, which are created by the movement of water due to rain and snow. Another subtle identifier is unevenness in the home’s doors or windows, as the foundation and home are not designed to accommodate significant ground shifts.
When hydrostatic pressure pushes the foundation out of its original position, the frames of windows and doors can become misaligned with the foundation, causing resistance when opening or closing them.
To resolve bowing and buckling, it is recommended to find the source of the issue and strengthen the foundation walls to prevent movement as water saturation changes in the surrounding soil. A foundation repair company can use carbon fiber straps to reinforce the foundation, seal off any cracks using epoxy injection, and attach the carbon fiber frame to the top of the house frame, walls, and foundation footer. This network distributes outside pressure evenly across the foundation, preventing unwanted shifts and holding up in the long term.
How to save a collapsing retaining wall?
This article provides a guide on how to repair a collapsed stone retaining wall. It includes steps for removing the wall, observing the stone assembly, replacing any necessary stones, analyzing the cause of the collapse, fixing the issue, compacting the subgrade, and rebuilding the wall. The article also mentions landscapers, natural stone steps, erosion and drainage solutions, pond construction, fountainscapes, and pondless water features.
How to strengthen an existing retaining wall?
To strengthen existing walls, adding steel ties or anchors, improving foundations below the retaining wall, and improving drainage around the wall can help alleviate water damage problems. Retaining walls may suffer from structural integrity issues due to foundation settlement, inadequate water drainage, overloading, impact damage, shearing, and cracking due to poor initial construction. Other potential causes include foundation settlement, inadequate drainage, overloading, impact damage, shearing, and cracking. Addressing these issues can help prevent retaining wall failure and ensure long-term structural integrity.
How much to fix a bulging wall?
The mean expenditure for the repair of a bowing basement wall is $4, 500, with homeowners typically bearing costs between $500 and $10, 000, contingent on the dimensions, classification, and severity of the damage.
How to straighten a bowed exterior wall?
Wall straightening is a process that involves excavation outside the basement and hydraulic jacking inside the basement to push the wall back into its original upright position. Once in place, the wall is secured with carbon fiber straps. This is a significant and permanent solution that requires a professional contractor specializing in foundation work. Three methods for repairing a bowing wall are carbon fiber straps, wall anchors, and helical tiebacks. DIY repairs are not recommended due to high risks of injury or property damage. Professional contractors are recommended for this type of repair.
How do you fix a bowing wall in a house?
Bowed basement walls can cause significant structural damage or collapse if left unattended. To fix this issue, homeowners can use carbon fiber strips to reinforce the wall, wall anchors for extra support, steel I-beams for strengthening the structure, wall pins, helical tie-back anchors, and wall rebuild to restore strength. The six best ways to fix bowing basement walls are: 1) using carbon fiber strips to reinforce the wall, 2) using wall anchors for extra support, 3) using steel I-beams for strengthening the structure, 4) using wall pins, 5) using helical tie-back anchors, and 6) using wall rebuild to restore strength. By following these steps, homeowners can safeguard their property’s longevity, enhance safety, and prevent this problem from recurring.
How do you fix a buckling wall?
To address bowing and buckling in foundation walls, it is essential to identify the cause and strengthen the walls to prevent movement due to changes in soil water saturation. A foundation repair company can use carbon fiber straps to reinforce the foundation, seal cracks using epoxy injection, and attach the carbon fiber frame to the top of the house frame, walls, and foundation footer. This network distributes outside pressure evenly across the foundation, preventing unwanted shifts.
The carbon fiber is strong and unaffected by temperature changes, making it a reliable long-term solution. If you suspect your foundation is bowed or buckled, contact The Real Seal LLC, a foundation repair company in Chicago, who use the Rhino Carbon Fiber wall support system to correct cracks and prevent future leaks. The company offers a lifetime warranty and a highly trained team, backed by hundreds of 5-star customer reviews.
How to fix a wall that is not straight?
To fix uneven walls, cover them with paint and use a roller to apply the paint evenly over the low areas. Sand down the high spots, plaster over the low spots, apply Elastomeric Wall Coating, and replace or add drywall. If the paint job is old, paint the entire wall, taking special care at the low spots, to get an even finish and color. If the wall still feels uneven with your hands, the wall should look even visually. There are many ways to fix uneven walls without major construction work, such as using the right wall treatment or basic repair work.
How to repair a bulging wall?
Bulging or bowed brick walls can be a stressful experience for homeowners, especially during winter. The main cause of these issues is water entering the mortar joints, which expands and causes the bricks to bulge. To fix this, contractors can use carbon fiber straps, wall anchors, and helical ties. Brick reinstallation is also recommended. The main issue is that water can cause the wall to squeak, causing the wall to squeak and causing the wall to squeak. The contractor can then use these tools to restore the wall’s integrity and prevent further damage.
How to fix a bulging retaining wall?
To fix a small leaning retaining wall, remove loose or damaged blocks, determine the proper angle using a level, install new blocks, secure them with adhesive or mortar, and backfill the area with compacted soil. Regular maintenance and proper installation can prevent future leaning. Identify the root cause of the problem, such as poor construction practices, inadequate drainage, soil erosion, and hydrostatic pressure. Examine the wall and its surroundings to pinpoint the specific issue affecting its alignment.
Signs of a leaning wall include cracks along the surface, soil buildup at the base, or tilting beyond the recommended angle. Consulting a professional landscaper or structural engineer can provide further insights into the extent of the problem and the best course of action.
📹 Buckling stucco in front of the home, structural cracks in stucco
Buckling stucco in front of the home. Repair structural cracks in stucco. Stucco is cracking at the front of your house. Folks, if your …
I began repairs after perusal a few of Kirk’s articles. When I ran into a few problems, Kirk personally walked me through the repairs. I had no prior contact with Kirk and was surprised how much time he took out of his family time to assist me. We traded phone calls, he viewed pictures of my issues and sent me supporting article links. You cannot ask for a more professional approach than what he provided. And to get this for free….priceless. Thanks Kirk, sorry for the late comment. Robert
Great article and helpful links. I’m having an issue all around my foundation where there are flowerbeds or dirt meets the stucco. The stucco is popping off and buckling! I’ve been told it’s because of salt and the soil is very acidic? What are your recommendations. And after perusal your article I’m tempted. to try the repairs myself. Thank you Kirk. 👍🏻
Captin Kirk, I was using rapid set mortar mix the other day. It was kicking my butt. lol It was over 100° and I was trying to mix it perfect. But it would set way to fast. So I remembered what you said it will dry no matter what. May Just a little longer. So I made it a bit more wet and that is what saved the day. lol. It was a little soupy at first. But by the time I was finishing it, it was just right. I was smiling, I said I remember ole Kirk saying just get it on it on there. make it fat and ugly, You can always pretty it up a bit. lol 😂😂
Years of referencing different articles of yours to repair stucco on the exterior of my larger home have helped immensely. Many of the smaller to media repairs done 4 years ago when I first saw your website have yet to have any issues at all. House: Arizona, 1986 home with EIFS and face sealed w/basic kraft paper barrier over the ridged foam (no asphalt paper). Now everything is fixed up and two coats of Dunn-Edwards Evershield. Thanks as always
I have an 89 year old stucco house I’m buying. It’s got major foundation issues. The former owners never put up rain gutters. So do you think all the years of rainfall on the base of the house caused the cracks in the stucco plus the foundation issues? Or something else? Walls sinking, inside floors bowing upwards. It’s a project… I’m restoring the house. You seem very professional in your work that’s why I’m asking you. Thanks for your articles.
Great (and fast!) work. Very helpful ! I’ve started the repair of a wood stucco detached garage at the bottom caused by (long story) water damage. 16′ long X12″ wide strip. Replacing the 1/2″ plywood. I can’t use the hammer method though, cutting wheel instead. . The projects close to over my head, but I think I can pull it off. 🤞🤞
Dear Kirk I cannot tell you how relieved I am to find a YouTube article that relates to this problem I have along one side of my 1925 baby craftsman bungalow in Chico, Butte County. Of course when I got the house four years ago they had re-stuccoed and textured it I think was a secret problem.I’m very disappointed that the inspector did not indicate this seam in the report I kind of feel like the inspectors the owners and the realtors colluded to do a very minimized report when in fact I think this buckling was just barely hidden…or maybe they felt it was repaired adequately—- and 2 years later Kapow —I’d say different areas of this type of damage about 20 feet long – But it may be that this happens in a old house when you have new stucco on top of old lathe. It is very difficult to find service people for individual homes out here in Chico. The campfire and Covid have changed the landscape of a lot of businesses… The people who seem to get good service agreements are people who owns several homes and buildings and rent them big apartment buildings and somehow the realtors all seem to be able to get service people. But be an older female individual homeowner in a cute little home and dang it is impossible to even get gutter service things have been really challenging. I have a guy who does a little bit of everything and he’s willing to try to do it but after perusal your article I see the stucco needs to be gently removed there needs to be a weep screen at the bottom and it takes a lot of skill to understand with the right mixes and to float it and apply it and texture it I’m not really sure even with a willing handy person … I feel like I should look for a place that does plaster and stucco repair.
A rare man who admits the truth: There is no American wood frame house which lasts forever. Most internet degenerates would instead peddle lies about how they would have built the home better and the damage wouldn’t have happened. Homes made in the USA are fundamentally not designed to last forever. They are made in the USA and they all have a limited shelf life.
I just saw a article of you not wanting to use your hammer. And using brains not bronze. It’s insightful perusal you almost a decade ago using your hammer instead of a battery operated hammer drill. It might be a small portion of us plaster folk. But I’d be interested in you making a article of how and why you started posting on YouTube. Great job master plaster!
This article is so good makes me think I can do a stucco repair in the corner of my garage by myself and I’ve never done stucco repair but it’s either I do it or I pay somebody to do it and I won’t be able to always do every repair myself but I kind of want to learn how to do this stuff at least on a few houses so I can do repairs as needed and not always have to hire someone
Hi.I love your articles.I have a paint estimate for my home which is concrete block,however my Florida room is pressure treated wood. In some spots it is down to the bare surerock. Just a minute of your time for a few questions. My house was built in 1961 and Is located in south Florida 1.is it common practice to put a moisture barrier under shurock,or is the shurock the moisture barrier and surface to adhere stucco to? 2.i had a stucco guy give me an estimate for $4500.He immediately wants to come in,cut 18 inches of the exterior from the ground to inspect and replace the wood,if there is nothing wron,he said he’d put it back on and put some kind of moisture barrier down behind it. The room has no signs of leaking to the interior and when the inspection was done prior to is buying the house,the inspector took the electrical outlet covers off and his meter measured zero moisture. Is the stucco guy taking me for a ride? 3.If pressure cleaning the room with old stucco with 4000 psi knocks all of it off,can shurock be primed and painted without stucco application? Thanks in advance sit.Hope you are still around to educate me…my gut tells me I’m going to be ripped off by this stucco guy.
Thanks for all the excellent articles, Kirk and Jay! I notice in several articles (like this one) that you’re plastering over paint. Will that be an issue? I’m repairing my parging and broke off all loose parge. I will use a bonding agent in the mix as well as on the wall. I may just feather the parge to the height of the painted surface and use the float/sponge to remove any excess, so I won’t have any mix on the paint itself. Thoughts? THANKS!
I love how much you focus on the basics “how to”, I avoid stucco as a general “can you?” But I’ve done some small patch work and your articles have been instrumental in my success of getting it right to match the original building/general stucco application. Not to mention an upcoming house project that will tie into a new stucco application, I can talk with the stucco person and coordinate my work with his understanding what he will be doing in relation to what I’m doing.
hi, can anyone answer a question for me? ive got an EXTREMELY old house. It has a part of it that is actually adobe with stucco on top. The entire side of the outside wall fell off. What would I use to patch it up? What kind of base and what kind of stucco over ? There is not metal wiring or anything of the sort.
I have seen several very articles, you are so good at explaining. You answer a questions that I’m thinking of as you’re speaking. You’re very clear and concise. I’m a DIY and I really appreciate you taking the time to share your skills. I love the way you show your family that says a lot. Thank you for all your training and instructions. I’m going to work on a little project and I hope it turns out great. Thank you again, I really enjoy the articles.
How would you know this crack won’t crack up again soon if it’s caused by foundation settling? Is the cause was the foundation then I would assume the true solution of such crack and future prevention should be resolved at its source— maybe a foundation repair? Then fixing the cracks? I’m asking because I bought a 60 year old house on slope. I see some cracks in the interior and many cracks exterior, from hairline cracks to more noticeable ones, all over the doors windows and bottom of the house too. A foundation repair guy told me there are slopes in the floorings and house has a constant slope but he just wouldn’t tell me if I need repair or not. It’s frustrating to have a professional who can’t seem to be confident and refuse to be responsible about a simple inspection. When I look at the cracks around the house, they scare me. Your articles help a lot. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
Was wondering if you ever came across a house that does not have the wiring behind it ? My house is over 100 some years old and I dug out a crack to find a larger cavity between two cement blocks without any concrete in it … shoved some mud into it and put patch stucco on top but was curious if you ever came across a similar situation
Thank you Kirk from Ontario Canada.I was going to send you this article but I think you answered all my problems in this article.I am a union cement patcher/labourer but do not know stucco at all.In my vid I show a patch I did and it is a real mess but thanks to you I will get this figured out.We thought we were going to have to rip the whole stucco off our house,you just saved us a ton of money thanks from Antonio in Canada. P.S. You have a great attitude and I am enjoying your articles! I figure I will fix it because what else could I be doing! youtube.com/watch?v=ZEtvdkAVtmU&feature=youtu.be
about 12 years ago I worked with a stucco guy overseas, and we used to wait a couple of hours after the stucco was about 60% cured but yet soft enough so we could use a sort of flat saw and we would run this saw across the surface until the whole surface was porous and open and that way we knew that we got all the high spots down and all was level. Is there a similar system here stateside? I’m having a hard time hitting my walls with a darby before everything dries up.
Hello Kirk, Great articles! I have a house in Dublin Ca built in 65 with what I now believe are stress fractures. This article makes me think maybe I can do the repair, The one difference is the vent that is distorted because of the sagging stucco. I imagine the vent will need to be replaced, Is replacing the vent a big deal?
You make it look so easy! I have a 35-yr-old stucco house in the high desert, flat roof with parapet, that was apparently re-coated at least once. It cracked in many placed, from window corners, on block walls, in the middle of large panels. So the contractor pushed adding new wire and new base/color coat over that whole original system. Within 5 yrs, it cracked in about the same places. I am thinking now that my best bet is to pull it down to the framing and have it re-done from scratch. New wire, everything. For one thing, the stucco is flush or even past the window frames (aluminum windows). I would appreciate your thoughts?
I think all the clips I’ve seen are great. Have learned more than any other site I’ve visited. The only one thing I haven’t been abel to clearly find out is exactly what the mixture and ratio is? Accelerators, rapid set, etc. are mentioned but in what mixture? This article, Repair buckling stucco is exactly what I need to do, now all I need is to know what to mix.
Hi, I have a home in Spain, the garden wall are stuccoed, and they are starting to blow and fall off, thanke to you, I now can do the repair, I am told that it is the salt in the ground that is the problem, but is there anything I can do to stop it spreading along the walls, so I don’t have to keep doing the repair. Thank you so much for your articles, they are a great help
Hey ratrod, Sometimes we have a lot of time to record what we are doing as I this one. At other times we are hustling big time and don’t have much time to record because this (film time) sometimes allows the stucco to set up on us. Thanks for the compliment, we’ll try and keep informing as best as we can. Have a great evening. Kirk Giordano plastering
Thanks for the reply KGP and the articles. Could I ask you question? I have an old house with alcove ceilings. I scraped a textured coat off them and then painted them just to seal it but there are a lot of imperfections in them. If there a way I could somehow redo the ceiling by putting something by using a bonding agent and then putting something over that and smoothing it out as much as possible? Is there something flexible that would not crack or show cracks? And could i do it myself?
Hey truth seeker, if a wall is sealed, say by paint, a stucco porous finish won’t adhere unless you apply a bonding agent. A scratch coat is a first coat, which should be applied and let to cure for 48 hours before you apply your next coat. My articles show a lot of same day scratch and brown coats but I have 30 years in this trade. Thanks for the comment. Kirk Giordano plastering
Big house! Always educational articles, thanks! I really appreciate the slow methodical discussion explaining how you see this from your experience and expelling your strategy to fix it. At 5:30 or so you are talking about adherence, what determines whether stucco/mortar/cement will adhere to something or not? What determines if you need a scratch coat … what is a scratch coat? Hope that’s not too many questions. Great!
Ive watched about 200 articles from the giordano plastering tutorials. Im a painter by trade. I moved from the midwest where stucco just hasnt been done. These articles have been a lifeline to remain profitable. I wouldnt call myself a true plaster, but i have some hours behind the trowel now, and all the stuff ive learned from this website i put to use daily. The giordano plastering bible is one of the best series on youtube.
Dear Kirk, I love these articles and learn so much from you. I have recently had some issues with the stucco on a house from 1895 that I bought a year and a half ago. There are parts that are crumbling, and I was told that long ago someone put stucco over shiplap but didn’t have long enough nails. I am facing a situation where I need to begin repairing the stucco or take it off. I am afraid that if I take it off the wood will be rotten, but it seems like the professional is saying that there would be no end to my issues if I repair it. 80% of the stucco seems to be fine for the age of the house, with just spider cracks. Do you have any thoughts or advice for things that I should consider in this decision? Thank you.
Dear kirk Colorado dude again last week I asked about a small pony wall made of cinner block that is crumbling I forgot to ask on what type of stucco sack to use I live a half a block away from stucco company here in San jose ca I was told by a applicator that stuff called foam tite in a sack he recommended would be best because it has border in it and sticks to a ything due you recommend it or is there something else in my book your the plaster king and can steer me in the right direction again thank you for all your articles
I have watched your articles for a couple of years now. Always impressed. I have tried some simple repairs. You make it look easy. Very grateful for your content. This article is a short clip but it is so demonstrates your skill that even the casual fan can see your ability. I personally think you have advanced your craft many times over. A big freaking, high piled, hawk full of help and knowledge you have freely handed off to the public. I hope your family benefits and receives the same blessings. You have taught your viewers what to look for. showed us how much skill and passion comes with a true pro. I just wanted to say thank you from the bottom of my heart. Before I wouldn’t have had a clue.
Kirk I watched you for years and i fewl like im a pro. Only in my little mind but I did try to apply the skill and the mud just slides of the trowel and lands on the ground 😅. However I’m able to get it on the wall. I’m making it a bit soupy so i dont work hard. I think my trowel is stainless steel maybe the wrong trowel.
Man, im just a “little” guy trying to make a living since all this covid crap and i have to thank you because without your teachings i would never be able to do any of this. All the other articles i watch are half ass and full of misguided direction. You have a unique ability to truly teach, and for that i am eternally greatfull. God bless you and yours.
What did you use for both parts…was it cement or mortar or stucco repair? Our home is 100 years old ands has the same issues as in the article. I need to know what to purchase to fix it. Our stucco is also painted a light beige, which I am assuming will complicate matters. Any help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
Kirk, Thanks for being a mature man that was quick to accept my apology. I never intended for my comment to create animosity amount the few people who took so much offense. I received a few comments that were very constructive, I appreciated them. And upon reflecting on those comments it help me to take the corrective action that I did. I’m glad that the two individuals involved directly in the situation are at peace with each other. I thank you for being positive about our exchange. Unfortunately the few who I fail to understand why they have reacted as they have, I’m not going to entertain their desperate attempt to stir the pot. Adult men shouldn’t have time to get involved in my comment to you and then judge how you and I amicably handled it peacefully. Instead they should perhaps take note in the peaceful and respectful manner that we addressed each other and we can live happily ever after. I wish them the same. Enjoy your beverage and thanks for your kind gesture.
Some one mentioned to me at home depot instead of using white paint on stucco to use white stucco ! Is that possible to put white stucco on stucco that is already on my wall . I Have hair line cracks .on my wall but its not bad . . I appreciate your advice ! Thank you still searching for paper. By the way I watch you articles and you do a great job . You have a great family. That my family build homes from stone when they came from italy you the best !! From Pa !
Super helpful. I recently removed a balcony with rails that were attached to the stucco. It left a couple of large holes in the surface stucco that I need to repair before I put in my new railing. Your articles are superb and easy for anybody to understand. I only hope mine comes out half as good as yours. Thanks Kirk. Appreciate the tutorial. Will buy some stuff from your Amazon affiliate link to show my gratitude.
Hi Kirk. How long would a repair like this last or crack again? I bought a house in June of last year. I noticed that the previous owner did many repairs or patches on the stucco of the exterior of the house. Now, within less than a year, I noticed there are many thin cracks around the exterior. I also have cracks in the interior walls of the house as well. I want to get the exterior stucco repair, but I am afraid that I will have to keep doing this. Do you think there are underlying problems with the foundation? Or it’s just that the previous repair is not done properly. Lastly, do you do work in Los Angeles area or you can recommend a stucco plaster down here?
YOU FINALLY FOUND A WAY TO PLUG YOUR ACTING CHOPS., EXCUSE ME THEATRE, IT MADE ABSOLUTELY NO SENSE AS TO WHY YOU WOULD THROW THAT ONE SENTENCE IN THIS article. YOU WEFE SPEAKING ABOUT SETTLING AND JUST COULDNT HELP YOURSELF. THERE CLEARLY IS A REASON WHY YOU ARE A STUCCO GUY AND NOT AND ACTOR OR COMEDIAN. YOU HAVE A VAST AMOUNT OF KNOWLEDGE, BUT YOU LOVE TO HEAR YOURSELF TALKING. YOU FAIL TO SHOW US THE ACTUAL FOOTAGE OF HOW THINGS AFE DONE, DUE TO YOUR RAMBLING AND BRAGGING ABOUT YOURSELF. IT’S SO FRUSTRATING TO WATCH YOUR ARROGANT articleS. YOUR A GREAT STUCCO GUY AND I APPRECIATE YOUR TALENT, BUT COULD YOU PLEASE TALK LESS, A LOT LESS, AND SHOW US ACTUAL DETAILED article OF HOW THE WORK IS DONE.
Kirk I enjoy your Stucco articles. I live over on the East coast of the United State, actually in Massachusetts. I had purchased a stucco home a little over 3 years ago and it’s been painted in the past. I’m currently power washing the paint off so I can repair some cracks and a couple of patch work area’s. I’ve have never done this type of repairs before and by perusal your article’s it’s helping out a lot with my project. I have almost all the paint off and getting ready to take care of the cracks & patch work, any extra advice can you provide that’s maybe not in your article’s? Thank you and keep doing your article’s because I’m learning a lot on how to keep my Stucco home maintained.
Hey Kirk, love your articles! I have a 100yr old house in Winnipeg, I have a few cracks like that (not as bad tho!), that are on an addition (probably 50yrs old), the addition is against the wall that has the 100yr old fireplace/chimney. Both corners of the addition are cracked like that. There is also a really large elm tree right there too, that might be causing problems! I cant see the paper, but I can see the stucco behind the finishing coat has a decent size crack in it too. For now I just filled it all with caulking. Any advice? I know this stuff is very situational and its probably hard to give me advice off the little information I provided. Wish you were local to Winnipeg! How long do you think the fix you did in this article would last?
Love your articles. Very informative and instructional. I have just purchased a 60 year old house with stucco that has been painted (I was bummed that it wasn’t maintenance-free) . The wood trim is in terrible condition (mostly bare wood). I’d like to scrape, sand and paint the trim first as the bare wood concerns me. Next year I plan to have the stucco repaired and painted. My question is: where the wood trim meets the stucco looks very much like the home you are working on in this article; how do I seal the joint between the wood and stucco? When I attempt to remove the loose stucco, I don’t know where to stop, as it continues to come off if I work at it. Is there some product that glues the rough edges of the stucco sub-coat so it doesn’t continue to flake off? How do I fill the void between the stucco and the trim? Caulk? If so, what specific product should I get (my son says paintable 100% silicone is best)? I hope you agree with my plan that I should get the windows done first so the paint color will go from the window and overlap onto the repaired joint and into the stucco portion so that when the stucco is painted, the stucco color can end cleanly at the completed window trim. If you address this issue in one of your articles I would appreciate knowind which one to watch. I have subscribed and eagerly await a response!
Excellent articles. I have a stucco home that has a 1sq ft pattern similar to a chekered diamond pattern as typical for most Arizona homes built around 1995, I am trying to match it, any suggestions? Tyvek paper is that any better than the brown paper or tar paper I’ve seen you use in some of your articles?
Kirk & Jason, Thanks for all your great tutorials. We have a huge three story, hundred year old building with a heavy dash stucco over soft bricks. The stucco is in need of repair in spots, however, our heavy dash finish is filled with fiberglass . We have not yet found any information on this type of stucco. Have you heard of it? Is there some resource which could help us? Boy we wish we lived near you we’d hire you in a second, you work with artistic grace. thanks R&C
Hi Kirk, I know from perusal many of your articles that how you install the wire over the moisture barrier paper makes a big difference. Can you quickly talk about the things to do and more importantly, the things not to do when putting up the wire that holds the mud. Thanks and as always, an even bigger Thanks for doing these articles. You guys have saved me a buttload of money and grief. Take Care…
Thank you for all of the information. I am in the process of repairing the stucco on my cinder block home. It is 60 plus years. I repaired the cracks first with a tuck point blade and used rapid set mortar and diamond wall with fibers to fill the cracks. I took off all of the bad stucco and bad repairs with a hammer drill and a pressure washer. I then used eifs fiberglass mesh set in omega dry bond to put a skim coat on the walls to level out. I am putting omega Akroflex as a finish coat. Will the finish show differently on a cold joint and is there a way to minimize the difference? Keep em coming. You should have your own reality show, very entertaining as well as informative…