The issue with the door threshold is a common issue in homes, often caused by drafts or difficulty opening and closing the door. To fix this, a new ¾-inch-thick oak threshold should be added to cover the exposed edge of the new flooring, the door slightly trimmed, and a new door sweep installed. A lower door threshold seal unit can be acquired that slides onto the bottom of the door and is adjustable by sliding up and down to the threshold. These units are then fixed into place using screws through the side flanges into the lower rail of the door.
Another solution is to replace the rotten wood underneath the threshold, which can be done by prying off the toekick (the exterior board below the threshold) and probing the wood underneath for signs of decay. If the wood is rotten, it should be replaced and sprayed with a waterproof caulk.
In addition to installing a new threshold, it is important to use waterproof caulk when installing the threshold and nail it down with new galvanized nails. If the doorstop problem is present, tapping a wood chisel between the doorstop and door frame or levering the doorstop can help. If the door margin at the top was wider than at the bottom, shimming or bending the hinges might fix the issue.
To fix a door that springs open, check and tighten the hinges, adjust their alignment, use shims if necessary, and consider a door closer. Overall, adjusting the threshold on exterior doors can improve entryway functionality and prevent air and water leaks.
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As a kid back in the late 70’s early 80’s, I would always go to my Grandmother’s house. It was a Sears Craftsman house. The dining room was in the center of it and would shake and rattle when you walked through it. I remember I actually loved this as a kid. That house has since been razed now and I hated I never got to go back and see that old house as an adult. Great article. And honestly, I only watched this article to bring back those fond memories. Lol Thank you. 🙂
I was dubious about this technique and was looking at putting in a beam or sistering all the joists for the bouncy floor under my dining room in my 100 year old craftsman house. Either approach would have been expensive and take a long time to do. So I thought this looks easy and only cost me $100 for materials. Believe it or not it worked! Those 1 x 3s are rock solid and the floor now feels solid. And no impact on the usable space in the basement. Amazing. My joists are 2 x 8 over a 16.5 foot span. Way over spanned by today’s standards.
You would be better off installing the strap along the joist not perpendicular. The best method I tried and worked really well for our 15.5′ span joists is steel strapping at the bottom along the joists. A conventional steel strapping gets wrapped around the joist. However I used a different method – place the steel strap along the joist at the bottom side not on the side. Pre-drill the steel strap and you sink a 3-4″ screw every 7-8″ along the joists in a zig zag fashion to avoid joist splitting and secure the steel strap (#10 steel about an inch wide same width as the joist). This is the same engineering concept as I beams. As the floors bounces down it introduces tension on the steel strap. Steel has very little flex when it is pulled apart. Therefore the steel strap take the tension and does not allow the joist to bounce or sag. In our basement this reduced about 90% of the bounce. As our home was new we didn’t have a sag problem but this fixed the bounce problem. You can purchase #10 steel straps (I believe they are about 1/8-1/16″ thick) at your local steel store cheap. I purchased 15 of these 1/8″ x 1″ x 16″ for about $250 (Metal Supermarket BC Canada). Place a c clamp under the joist mid span, feed the strap through the c clamp then start screwing down the strap along the joist as straight as possible. You will find joists have slight side curve to it. 1 1/2 day job for one person. Get a few steel bits. This is probably worth a few thousand dollars of contractor work for the same effect.