To frame rough openings efficiently, follow three simple rules: minimize layout marks, maintain a simple, consistent nailing pattern, and avoid toenailing when possible. When modifying walls around the house, rely on one tool to determine the best location. Installing a new entry door unit on a stucco home can be a daunting project, but it can be done with the help of tips from Plastpro. This includes cutting through drywall, assembling new studs, and building a new door frame.
The traditional way to replace a door or window in stucco is to break out the old stucco, install the unit, and then restucco around it. However, improper installation can cause damage. To avoid this, get the Masonry opening or unit dimension from the manufacturer, which is the size of the door unit, including the exterior trim.
To install the door, buy and attach stucco wire to the opening over the top of the house warp using shingle nails. This will ensure that the door is securely attached to the house and prevents damage from improper installation. It is essential to have detailed flashing and detailed installation instructions to avoid potential damage.
📹 How To Install An Exterior Door In 10 Minutes! – Beginners Guide
This is an exterior door installation video. How to install an exterior door is explained here. This exterior door installation is a …
What goes on before stucco?
Before applying stucco to a wood exterior, a plastic or metal lath is needed to cover the surface. Stucco, a common exterior wall covering, has been used for thousands of years and is a type of plaster made from sand, cement, and water. It is commonly found in Spanish or Mediterranean architecture and offers long-lasting durability, customization options, and minimal maintenance. Stucco can be smooth or textured and can be tinted during installation or painted over after drying.
However, due to its uneven surface, it may not be suitable for high-wind locations due to potential breakage during storms or wind gusts. Stucco can be cleaned easily with a garden hose or pressure washer, and although it is prone to cracking, it can be patched with commercial stucco patch products.
How do you prepare the surface for stucco?
To prepare a stucco surface for coating, ensure it is clean and free from dust, dirt, mold, or mildew. Use a pressure washer to clean the surface and allow ample drying time. Efflorescence, a white, powdery salt deposit caused by moisture exposure, can be unsightly and affect paint adhesion. DRYLOK® Etch is a safer alternative to muriatic acid that prepares smooth, dense surfaces for coating while removing efflorescence and excess mortar.
What do you use to frame an exterior door?
When selecting lumber for exterior door framing, consider the door size. A 2×6 header is strong enough for a 3-foot-wide door opening. If the opening needs to be cut for a larger opening, install temporary supports and use larger lumber. Use an existing wall stud as a king stud and slip a jack stud into the wall. Use a circular and reciprocating saw to cut through each exposed stud in two places. If confident in measuring and cutting skills, cut the bottom of these studs to serve as the bottom of cripples, but they must be straight and square.
Platform framing is common in most homes, while balloon framing is common in older homes. If you have balloon framing, cut the studs to the height of the floor joists and install short cripple studs for each side.
Can you stucco over wood?
Before applying stucco to a wood exterior, a plastic or metal lath is needed to prevent cracking and give the base coat a clinging effect. Stucco, a common exterior wall covering, has been used for thousands of years and is a type of plaster made from sand, cement, and water. It is commonly found in Spanish or Mediterranean architecture and offers long-lasting durability, customization options, and minimal maintenance. Stucco can be smooth or textured and can be tinted during installation or painted over after drying.
However, due to its uneven surface, it may not be suitable for high-wind locations due to potential breakage during storms or wind gusts. Stucco can be easily cleaned by rinsing it with a garden hose or using a pressure washer. Although it is prone to cracking over time, it can be patched with commercial stucco patch products.
How much bigger should my rough opening be than my door?
In the majority of cases, builders will determine the rough dimensions of a door opening by adding two inches to the width and height. A margin of 5″ should be allowed for the height of the door, in order to accommodate the frame and allow for minor adjustments to achieve an optimal fit. To illustrate, a 32-inch rough door opening necessitates a 30-inch pre-hung door, whereas a 2-foot, 6-inch wide door requires a wall rough opening of 2 feet, 8 inches.
How do you prepare a new door frame?
Before painting your internal doors, it’s essential to prepare the area and apply a stripper to the wood. Wait for the stripper to work, then remove the paint, dust, wash, sand, and tape the frame up. This process has been performed for hundreds of years, and there is a large body of wisdom to draw upon. To achieve pleasing results, follow a tried-and-true procedure.
To prepare the door frame, ensure an even surface and remove any existing paint if switching colors. This can be done using an electric hot-air gun, chemical paint-stripping, or sanding. A combination of these methods is usually best, as a hot-air gun might scorch the door and damage the wood.
Before starting, remove the door, hinges, and strike plate from the frame, laying it flat to prevent bending while working with the frame. This will help ensure a smooth and professional finish for your doors.
How are exterior doors framed?
Jamb components are vertical perimeter frames that surround a door, consisting of three separate pieces: side jambs, head jamb, and a mullpost. These frames are made of composite material or solid wood and are best suited for all exposure types as they do not absorb moisture or rot. Sidelites are fixed narrow panels installed next to a door panel for decorative purposes, usually containing glass lites. A mullpost is a post or divider that runs from sill to frame in a door and sidelite assembly with Continuous Construction.
In double door applications, an additional piece called an Astragal is attached to the Passive door, which covers the margin between doors when they are closed, keeping out air and moisture. In a double or two-panel door assembly, the door usually remains closed and fixed by bolts at top and bottom, while the other door panel is used for regular passage.
Some door units contain a sidelite, a narrow panel on one or both sides of the door that provides decorative appeal and natural light. In many cases, lites are installed and can match the door lite if desired or remain unique in contrast. Most sidelites are fixed (cannot be opened), but they can be vented. Venting sidelites swing open to allow ventilation and are equipped with multi-point locks and a screen.
How do you prepare an exterior door for installation?
Before installing a new exterior door, clean the opening thoroughly, remove debris and old caulk, check the subsill level, and install a drip cap or Z-flashing. This DIY project can improve curb appeal and energy efficiency, making it within the scope of most DIYers. This Old House general contractor, Tom Silva, will guide you through the process, from removing the old door to securing and weatherproofing the new one. The reviews team may receive compensation if you purchase through website links.
How do you prepare exterior walls for stucco?
Stucco can be applied over brick or masonry walls or on top of wood sheathing. To apply the first coat, use fresh mortar to repair any cracks and wash the wall thoroughly. For wood or cement-board/OSB sheathing, it’s more complicated and requires more galvanized stucco lath and fasteners.
Hang a double layer of building paper, overlapping by at least four inches over the one below it and vertical seams by six inches or more. Wrap around corners at least 16 inches and fasten with galvanized roofing nails or staples. Install trim accessories with galvanized nails and a weep screed along the bottom of each wall to allow moisture to drain out and avoid damage underneath the stucco layers.
Install a galvanized lath or netting to the wall using long nails or staples that can penetrate studs at least an inch deep. Space out nails or staples by six inches and overlap horizontal and vertical seams by an inch.
After completing these steps, inspect the substrate prep work before mixing the stucco to ensure everything is correct. Double check your work while you can, as you won’t be able to make any corrections once the stucco is applied. For more information on stucco prep work, contact Spring Construction for a stucco contractor in Bluffton, SC.
What is the rough opening for framing exterior doors?
To ensure proper door installation, it is essential to measure the frame’s opening size in detail. This can be done by adding 2″ to the width and 2 ½” to the height of the new exterior door, taking into account sub-floor space. The manufacturer’s instructions should be read to determine the width and height of the rough opening. This extra space helps to level and square the door during installation and accounts for minor wall expansion and contraction due to weather conditions. Using a stud finder can also be helpful in planning the location of the entry door, especially if looking from an existing basement or crawlspace to determine potential wall issues.
Do you install doors before stucco?
The traditional method of replacing doors or windows in stucco walls involves breaking out the old stucco, installing the new unit, and then restuccoing around it. This method is common in Western states and Florida, but can be challenging due to the need to remove the remaining material or building paper behind it. Older homes often have brittle building paper, which serves as the code-required “weather-resistive barrier” (WRB).
To hide the patch, some carpenters can finish-coat the entire wall with trim. However, this method is not suitable for everyone, as not everyone has access to a plasterer skilled enough to make inconspicuous patches. Instead, carpenters can make clean cuts in stucco without damaging the WRB, replacing the door or window, flashing it to prevent leaks, and filling in with trim. This approach doesn’t require hiring a stucco contractor and adds visual interest to the wall.
📹 Door Trim Installation when wall sticks out too far!!!
A quick and solid solution when the wall sticks out past the doorjamb! Patreon: …
Fabulous! Great article. I am so impressed by young men like you who are smart, enthusiastic, capable, and articulate. I AM going to replace an old garage service door tomorrow. I’m a capable handyman – – and I’ve done this job a few times. But, STILL(!), I picked up some great pointers from you. You CAN teach an old dog new tricks!
I have installed several pre hung exterior door and frames over the last 40 years. Always turned out a pretty good finish product. After perusal your article I can honestly say I am in deed a better installer. Home Depot sold me an Ryobi cordless brad nailer and with the knowledge you shared I turned out an even more excellent product in better than average time for myself. Thank you and keep up the good articles.
Great article! I build vacation homes for my families company in eastern wa. Been working with a guy and haul the doors into place. Never really was taught how to hang the doors though. Just saw this article after needing some answers. We are still in the Stone Age, using air nailers and blowing several air hoses over the years. I plan to shop online for a cordless nailer. Merry Christmas to me! I subscribed and plan to watch other articles to get help. The guy I work with doesn’t communicate so well. After perusal this tutorial I understand a lot better and could hang a door solo for sure. Thanks again.
The siders gonna pull the tyvek tape and flashing tape. paint and caulk wont adhere well. Top will get metal flashing and the tape will need to be on top of that flashing and the side of the brick mold will get caulk when siding butts into it. You would use that flashing tape if the door didnt come with brick mold. If it came with a flange, then you’d use the flange to hang the door then use the flashing tape over the flange to seal those penetrations.
I wish I had found this article before I hung my new fiberglass shop door the other day. Nothing permanently damaged but this would have helped. Most of the articles are poor unlike this one. Most use caulk under the door rather than glue which makes me wonder if I need to take the door out and redo it. Thanks for the good teaching.
Question: I noticed your garage walls are on top of a cement block starter row, which with our garage makes a gap towards the bottom of the door where the cement block is because the 7/16″ sheathing is covering the wall. I may be not explaining this correctly. Do you have pictures of the area on the outside of the door at the areas where the cement blocks are? How do you conceal the gap where the brick mold is not touching the blocks on the bottom section of the door? On the door we are replacing, water got in behind the brick mold because of the 7/16″ gap and started to rot the boards running down on each side of the rough opening. Just like your article. Any suggestions so this is done correctly. I did buy a door with a compost/pvc jamb & brickmold. Appreciate any help with this issue.
Hey Josh, great article as always. I bought a similar exterior door at Lowes, same style and brand but 32″ wide and figured I’d watch your article on how to install it. I started perusal your article and see basically the same door which is great. I was able to remove the old exterior door and jamb (keeping the existing brick moulding because it’s in stucco) and your instructions and tips were super helpful in getting the new door in place and plumb. thanks again!
There are two ways to install a exterior door! The 10 minute fast and cheap method or the Correct method. First my level would fit between the jams and then I would use a longer level to make sure that the wall was plumb especially if I was kicking the brick mould tight to the wall, which I would never do without checking plumb. I would never shot any nail without a shim behind it even to temporarily set the door. I don’t like to install doors with the casings put on before the door is set because moving the door usually messes up the miter cuts. I put flashing on sides, then top, then stucco guard or brick mold or whatever casings are required. I would use silicone sealant, not liquid nails, on the sill. Two beads, one a little back of where the front of the door will sit, the other, a little inside where the back of the door will still. I tend to use a hammer and finish nails and set with a nail punch because nail guns usually leave nasty marks and it sounds to me like you caulk nail holes fast and cheap also. I also remove the weatherstripping before I put a drill or screw gun anywhere near it. I never put shims under the door. I would resolve the issue with concrete levelall or whatever the application requires (concrete, hardwood, tile). I use a quarter between the door and jamb, not my eyeball, to set the reveal. When you said you would score and break the shims if they were thin ( that’s how they split and fall between the jamb and stud and leave a loose spot which may create a problem later) and then you said the insulation squares go wherever you see light, which is wrong, they go on the bottom, I decided you were young and hadn’t installed a lot of doors!
I almost did like you did. But my sill is wood and only have that RhinoRoof Synthetic Roofing Underlayment on it, I also used that on walls to, no calking on sill. I only used 3 screws on hinge side and same opposite side, non on outside, yet, not sure if I need to. I have hinge side tight to wall stud, 1/2″ gap on other side with flat wide shims. My 36×78 door was metal, it was to heavy for just me, had to have help to put it in, I think your the man to put doors in by yourself …. Good instruction article thanks for posting, do you have one on installing door latch set to?
Josh, When you say “water will run straight down” …. I rather don’t think so. There is a process known as ‘wicking’ where the water is drawn other than the flow by gravity.. To see this take a dry washcloth or dishcloth or sponge and lower one edge into some water. Then hold it there and watch the water run UPhill. Your idea of flashing tape along the sides should be mandatory. I learned this when becoming certified by The Building Performance Institute. Take the extra step — you’ll thank yourself years later!
Please switch to lexan rather than liquid nails, the next guy will thank you. Also I think you got you door hinge sprung (its possible it’s a defective door but not likley) the side of the door with the hinges can be pulled out of square and really effect the closing of your door, I think that’s why the top left corner doesn’t want to close properly.
I am curious as to why you did not use screws on both sides on the door frame/jams. Especially since you commented on the door being heavy. It would seem that the finish nails would tend to back out/loosen after many times slamming the door. Slamming not being the best practice, but you know that we all do slam doors from time to time. Other than that, great article. Keep up the good work.
That door will never rot but that picture will warp like crazy especially in hot environments. I’m not trying to bash your website bc you do a great job but pcc warps so bad and it dries out so quick too. It becomes brittle. I build doors for a living. This craftsman 4 lite is beautiful and the homeowners will love it for a few years. But those jambs will start warping. You know in the mull posts for a single with sidelites they put thick aluminum strips in them so they won’t warp. The better alternative to pvc is framsaver jambs and brickmould. It has a co.posite material at the base of the jamb that will never rot but the jamb is wood.
So for years I wrapped the tyvex/typar in around the framing like you do here. After experiencing what we called mystery leaks. Nothing big, enough to stain some of the trim in the very corners, I figured out that the house wrap was wicking moisture in around the brick mold on doors and the nailing fin on the windows. What I started to do was cut the house wrap back, staple it out of the way. Then we would take 4-in Vycor and install around the opening on the outside. Then you would cut your house wrap back to the edge of the Vycor and use house wrap tape to secure the house wrap to the Vycor. Would always test fit the door and then apply a bead silicon to the back of the molding. Install the door as you normally would. We always shim behind the hinges and three points on the lock side. One top, bottom and behind the striker plate, screws behind the weather stripping like you did. Some finish nails in the brick molding then a nice thin bead of caulk around the outside. Piece of drip cap over the top and then a strip of Vycor over that. Been doing that for a long time haven’t had any leaks Not criticizing, everybody does it different but up here in the great white North we get sideways rain, snow, wind, lots of condensation because some days it’s 30° when you wake up then 75 in the afternoon. Been building for 40 years learned a lot from my mistakes in that time. Great article though always appreciate the guys that just do it without yapping incessantly. You’re helping people out and not wasting their time thanks man!
For once Ivan agree with this guy and his technique The only thing I’d recommend differently is that I NEVER nail through my shins. I can’t tell you how many times things have shifted, shrunk or swelled needing a readjustment. If you don’t nail the shims, you can remove or add shims easily to readjust the frame. There are more tricks that I use to hang a door in an old opening where nothing is plum, level or square I have hung probably a thousand doors in my short time of 70 years
Look at the top of the door. Don’t you see that the door sticks out a little on one side of the top of the door and flush on the other side of the top of the door which means that the door is not plumb to the jamb, you didn’t check that the wall was plumb. What you checked was that the trimmer or Jack Stud was raked and if its not, that’s what you use shims for. Check the difference between plumb and raked. Out of plumb means the top of the wall is not directly over the bottom of the wall, (see plumb bob) and you didn’t check plumb, you checked raked. The only way to fix that is cut the side loose and do it correctly. Also look at the gap of the miter cut on your brick mold. I have never purchased a door with casing on it because of the different types of siding applications that there are(can you purchase a door already cased)??? Also I would nail my exterior casing (galvanized nails) on the flat and not in the detail of the casing.
i work home depot deliveries and whenever i put together door installation orders the flashing always had me curious as to why it’s needed. finally decided to look it up and damn this is really good stuff a lot of this doesn’t seem complicated the way you put it and I’ll be perusal more of your content 👊
☹You missed it with this article. It is not for beginners. Here are the specifics: 3:53 You say you want to “Check what the REVEAL looks like.” But you don’t explain what a reveal is. You make a change and then say at 4:41 “Check the reveal.” And then suddenly at 4:45 your reveal is nice. But what is REVEAL? You kind of cleared it up later but I was already lost. I had to go to several other sources to find out what a reveal was. Very valuable information. I also learned that there is a difference between a door reveal and a regular reveal. It might improve this article if after you first mention reveal if you add a short explanation of what a “door reveal” is. And be careful introducing construction terms you are very familiar with for beginners.
I just started perusal your website a couple weeks ago when I began enclosing my carport for a sewing room for my wife. You have answered ALL my questions!!! I was specifically interested in your 3-way switch wiring article. Great content! Not overdone! Very easy to understand! And you narrate like a real person! Thank you, Josh!!! I’ll be referring to this article when I install the 36″ door as well as the 6′ French doors. Do you happen to have a article for installing a set of in-swing French doors?
Flashing tape should be installed behind the tyvek Didnt flash the exposed wood at the bottom of the jamb Concrete wicks moisture up into wood- the concrete should have had a run of flashing tape or blueskin- Door should be secured with framing nails not finishing nails. Top of door was out of square and should be corrected before finishing- Other than the above mistakes this article will help some homeowners but if you did that in 10 year the bottom of the door will be rotten, u nless you are in the dryest climate on earth 6/10 install
Great, so 2″ more on the horizontal and vertical nominals (38×82 for a 36×80 nominal door). Now, how much can you deviate from that 2″ extra each way and still be OK? Is only 1.5″ extra (i.e. 81.5″ high or 35.5″ wide) going to be workable? My to ask my question another way: What are the true tolerances on the rough opening before you have to either cut/shave something or start furring in something?
Not sure if this website is still active, but our garage door leads to the outside. When it rains, water seeps in at both bottom corners. I’ve had to replace the door sill and it still leaks. So, how do I correct this, and can I have a door that swings OUT instead? From my reading, garage doors are much safer if they swing OUT in case of fire.
When I first saw the title to your article, I said, “Yeah, right! I gotta see this!” After perusal the article with all the speedups and cutout edits, I’m saying, “‘Install a door in ten minutes’? Yeah, right!” Even after perusal your article, I still have yet to see anyone install an exterior door in 10 minutes. Nice try, though (maybe 18-20?)
I hung my door for first time. All went well. My problem I have is one of top corners doesn’t close all the way. There is no light coming through. The door is plumb and level. I have it against the frame of the house. Has even crack all around door when closed. Any help will be appreciated. Enjoyed your article as it helped me in hanging the door.
I just had a garage/shop built and the doors need some work due to their lack of attention like this. Thanks! This is probably the most useful site I have seen on youtube, nice work and I would kill for a friend you like you near me. I like to do things myself but my lack on knowledge ends up costing me since I have to pay someone.
Thank you so much for this article! I am on a concrete slab and was not sure if a sill pan was required for the bottom of the threshold! One question good sir: if I do need to shim the bottom(if the foundation is not level) do I just glue the shims on the concrete? Or could I use a concrete level compound?… Thanks for your articles; they are a blessing.
I just installed an exterior, prehung door and had to do it the hard way. Remove the trim, remove the door from the jam. Why? Because the only steel doors at my local box store are exterior doors. I needed a fire rated door for a new furnace room/closet. In my area, a ‘fire door’ can be solid wood or metal. It doesn’t have to have the official ‘fire door’ label. The room is very tiny and the door couldn’t swing in, so I had to rotate the door. the ‘outside’ of the door was inside the furnace room. I can’t stand inside the furnace room with door installed, that is how tiny it is. I put scabs of 5/8” firecode drywall to set my depth of the jam to the studs. The floor was sloping toward a drain, so I had to shim the threshold, then plumb the jam by myself. I can tell you, it took me longer than ’10 ‘ minutes……. but it is done. Now to buy a door knob and install some trim. I found out the trim that came with it can’t be used on the hinge side because the hinges push it out enough, that the header piece of trim is short.
Hey! Glad to see this as a start to finish job. I plan on moving an exterior door on a load bearing wall. Funny enough, my main concern wasn’t the load bearing wall itself (build a sister wall is all!) but moreso hanging the door itself. Seems like a fairly simple process but seems many things can be done wrong. I will be building on wood, the concern is the sill ate sagging over time if it needs significant shimming. What adhesive/sealant do you recommend for wood/wood install? Things I learned from the article and comments: 1. Flashing above the door. I will go the extra mile and do the sides because I am a paranoid overbuilder. 2. Sealing/adhesive for the sill before placing the door. 3. Shims behind hinges and wherever you place a screw or nail. 4. Relates to #3 for getting a good reveal.