When nailing 1×4 exterior trim, it is crucial to choose the right size nail to ensure the trim stays in place. The size of nail depends on factors such as trim type, material, aesthetic preferences, and exposure to weather. For exterior trim, hot-dip galvanized nails are recommended, while plastic strip nails are suitable for Hardie trim.
Pneumatic nailers are the go-to tools for slamming nails into framing lumber, but hand-nailing can also be used for a clean appearance. Finish nails should be thin with barely enough nailhead, and using a hammer to sink them but not flush is essential to avoid damaging the trim.
The key to nailing anything is to correctly set the nail and use a proper nailing pattern. Swing the hammer so that the shaft of the nail is tangent to the hammer’s arc is essential. Some people recommend 2 1/2″ finish nails, while others suggest Commons and paint over the heads. To prevent damage, touch up joins and brad holes with latex caulk and roller again.
For exterior trim exposed to the elements, only use 15 ga with SS nails. Protected work, such as under a porch, is acceptable with 16 ga galvanized nails. By considering these factors, you can confidently select the right finish nail size for a successful trim job.
📹 DON’T USE TRIM NAILS! Try These Instead…(TRIM HEAD SCREWS / TRIM SCREWS–Easy Woodworking Screws)
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📹 10 Carpenter’s tips for Exterior Window Trim!
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I am familiar with trim head screws. Your explanation of basics / pros / cons is brief and to-the-point…excellent. I would actually recommend that DYI’rs invest time in a fair amount of trail and error practice. Construction…like golf…always looks “easy” in the articles. Spend time analyzing FOR YOURSELF why something”went sideways” when YOU did it. Don’t over-force and as my father used to say: “Let the tool do the work”.
I used them only for connecting cabinets together but I did not know they make a deck version with is great info. I doing repairs to my front porch and these will be helpful for the finer trim work. thanks. I also did know it is the size of head on a screw that causes wood to crack. great info and tips.
I have a very simple brad nailer that can only use 5/8 nails, I got it because of how cheap it was and to use only on small projects like jewelry boxes. For everything else I’ve been using wood screws and having all the issues you mention, because I had no idea those screws existed, this will be a game changer for me, thank you!
As a painter who often has to repair cracked door jambs, window trim, sills and more I love trim head screws. I discovered them on the shelf at Home Depot several years ago and once discovered I always keep some on my truck, two or three lengths usually 1 1/4″, 2 1/2″ and 3″. These lengths work for most of the applications I need them for. I work on rental properties a lot and we often have cracked door jambs where someone tried to kick a door in. A 2 1/2″ or 3″ trim head screw properly placed will draw the cracked jamb back together. A little wood putty and I’ve saved the cost of a new door/jamb. Also I’m terrible with a hammer and trim nails, I have large hands. I absolutely could never go back to trim nails. I do have a brad gun and a Nail gun but there is no replacement for the trim head screws.
Great article. I somehow stumbled across trim screws in the past several months and they’ve been a game changer for me. I do have an 18G brad nailer but for simple butt joints I follow that with trim screws. I find that pre-drilling is not needed in my plywood projects, but it’s still a good idea when I work with poplar. Your mileage may vary, of course.
I have a good amount of knowledge in carpentry and I am mechanically inclined I’ve never used trim screw but I bought a package today . The package says it’s a number eight and they’re one and a quarter inches long, they’re definitely not a number eight .A number eight is 5/32, if I’m not mistaken. this may not seem like a big dea,l but I was about to buy some number eight countersink bits with the drill attached. and I noticed what they were labeling as number 8, for those type of countersink drill bits were noticeably bigger in diameter then what this 1 1/4 inch finishing screw that’s labeled as a number eight. So I guess my question is are finishing screws on a different kind of unit of measurement in diameter compared to other wood screws?
I’ve worked for 38 yrs in many, many types of woodworking shops from large office furniture companies & even larger commercial cabinetry companies, all the way down to specialty Hospitality shops (where I was the Sample Shop Foreman for several years). I have to say this IS a really neat fastener and it probably has a bunch of practical uses, however you’ve really lost me Nathan on suggesting it as a replacement to trim nails. I do understand your thought process but it really doesn’t make much sense if you’re just trying to minimize patching. You’re right, though about people using the wrong tool/fastener for the job, but the answer is to use the correct one. It’s only a thought, though – and only my opinion.
I understand the benefits of trim nails. The problem is they still require puddy to fill the hole and are not conducive to stain. I bought a pin nailer and that has been an epiphany in conjunction with glue. I love drywall screws to be quick and for places they won’t show. My countersink is made for the larger sized screws also
I know about trim nails and have been using trim nails (Finish Nails) both power and hammer driven for decades. If you use a nail set finish nails are perfectly easily to use, they are also the cheapest option for starting wood workers. If you want ease try cut finish nails; they hold better than round nails (wire nails) and have about zero chance of split if driven in the correct orientation. I will say trim screws work when you want to prevent pull or draw things together, like cabinet face frames.
I use trim screws as “hooks” for my license plate collection because their narrow heads allow me to slip my plates on and off of the display. Other screws, with wider heads, won’t allow this movement because the plate screw holes are too small. I use the 3 1/8 length screws which allows me to place ten or more plates per set of two screws.
I’m looking to hang plywood as the walls in my garage. I’ve watched articles from other YouTube websites talking about using trim screws to hang the plywood panels because of the clean look. Sounds like you are saying they aren’t the best for this application. Should I just use wood screws to hang them then?
I wish I knew about these 12 hours ago. The air in my shop was blue this morning! I used my brad nailer to set pieces in position, but needed more strength. Despite predrilling I had a torn of splitting. Appearance did not matter so I used CA glue and clamps to set the cracks I would have saved tine and aggravation had I had these on hand.
As usual, Thumbs up before perusal the entire article because I know the info will be important and well presented . perusal a couple more times was validation . perusal “home improvement ” on television teaches ZERO . The Honest Carpenter would be a smash hit on television . Thanks Bro and say HOWDY to Ross for me . ATB
In 2011 I completely rebuilt the front porch of my house from the ground up. I replaced the rotted out 4″ tongue/groove with composite decking. I used square drive color matched trim head screws to secure the decking. They were great and the porch looks as good now as it did in 2011. I am a big fan of torx drive screws, but until I saw this article, never gave trim screws much of a look. I will now. Thanks for the article.
For years, I took the easy extra step when using standard finish nails. Pre drilling, and nail setting. If you treated every board like oak (pre drill top material), it may take some extra time, but outcome is guaranteed to be perfect. No blowouts, dents, marring, etc. They are a heck of a lot cheaper than trim screws, obviously. Also, probably the easiest holes to fill. I do like trim screws, but I reserve them thick trim details. I remember being introduced to trim screws a few years back. Attaching decorative brackets to an exterior. Amazing for sure.
One more tip: if you’re using these outdoors, there’s likely to be a lot more movement and pull-out forces applied. Try to install pairs of screws angled contrary to each other. (That is, install the pairs with one angled up, the next angled down. Or maybe angled left vs. right.) The idea is to make sure there is no angle at which the only thing holding your material is the head of the screw.
Pocket screw jig… (Not with cone shaped screw heads).. Way better for trying to hide screws from a face on a project. Used pan head screws so they don’t split the wood.. and if doing corners like you show in your article, they make corner jigs that make that MUCH easier. (Or you can make your own corner jigs) As for trim screws, I don’t think I’d use them if the trim nail leaves a smaller hole to fill.
What about removal of these? If I use them for door trim, and then fill over each screw head, and then later need to remove the trim, I will need to find and dig out each head and try to clean it out enough to remove with the torx bit. With nails I can just pry the trim away from the wall and framing. Any thoughts?
Good info. Me, and smaller finish nails haven’t ever gotten along. Glue, and the finish nail gun is my only choice, to keep my sanity, and also lessens my irate vocabulary, that makes the wife and dog find another place to reside. I haven’t had a need for these screws too often, but they do work well. Thanks for sharing.
I discovered trim screws, about 10 years ago, from a company I found on-line. I requested a catalog and once I got it, I found the trim screws. Looked like a good idea so I bought some. They are great! I am a glue-a-holic; so I use glue on all my joints with the trim screws. Never had a problem and the joints never fail. I also use them for 45 cornered cabinet doors. I do not trust just biscuits in the 45, so I biscuit, glue, then when dry I add a finish screw. Makes a small enough hole to easily fill and hide. If I am staining, I mix the wood filler with the stain until the filler is colored. Blends in better when I stain the piece. I also use them when I put on the backing in cabinet boxes. If I need to remove the backing for whatever reason, it is easy to do with the screws. Then once I am satisfied with the build, I use glue with the screws, to affix the backing. Now I can find these screws at the local big box, so I no longer purchase them on-line. Nice article. Glad people like to share their knowledge.
What you call trim nails we call lost-heads, the frogs call call tete d’ homme, I like them and use them up to 4″ on occasions, I don’t have any need for trim screws, believing in one piece drill and countersink bits, or self countersinking screws for rough work, I think I carry enough kinds of screw already !
Thanks for the info. I did not know they made trim screw for exterior. My next project, I have to use 2×4 for exterior window trim, due to the thick siding we are putting on and I want to the windows’ trimmed out beyond the siding. Would the trim screw with the “finish nail” head allow the 2×4 to pop off it is happens to twist a little?
The only thing I don’t like about trim screws, is they don’t pull two boards together like structural screws. Sometimes I need two boards to pull together to eliminate little gaps, and in my experience trim head screws don’t do this. They bury into the wood really well, but no pulling boards together.
Tempting. But I’m facing a whole-house remodel that will require all baseboards taken off, AND they appear to be 3-piece: quarter round at the bottom, large middle piece, and topped with what would be a smaller piece above it (1939 house). I’ll skip the pneumatics and look for a cordless on my platform (metabo HPT), but I get confused with 16ga vs 18ga models.
I just discovered trim screws today. I was building a window sill and with nails it was super loose no matter what I did. I screwed about 3 or 4 of them to the stud and it was more stable than before. And covering up the holes was easy. I’ve always felt sloppy with nail gun shoots. I might try this on baseboards but that might be a pain. I just feel like I can do things are accurate with the trim screws. I’m just a guy trying to fix my house on my terms since I don’t really want to pay someone. I save the $$$ for the more important stuff.
I had to watch the article twice. So much information in one short article. I also just subscribed. Should I use trim screws or a cordless nail gun (15 or 16) for exterior window trim (thinking PVC to cover exterior window trim since I don’t have the means to work with aluminum trim – no metal brake)? Do galvanized 15 or 16 gauge nails rust when exposed to the elements for decades? I don’t want to change the nails (15 or 16) in 10 years if they do.
I do handy work for people. I knew these screws existed by never used them. The first time I ran into this type of screws and had to deal with them was on deck board replacement. The problem I ran into was removing the old screw. The deteriorated material protective coating and small size of the drive socket in head of screw made it impossible to remove. The bits just spun in the head IF I could get to it. Some screws were buried in the wood!! So then you are left with cutting out the board or core drilling around the screws to free the board. A time consuming pain! My suggestion if you use them, buy best quality possible for exterior use and DON’T BURY THE head under surface of wood!!! You are welcome.
silly… those are cabinet screws.. ain’t no good for trim. 20$-30 at harbor freight gets you a gun. pack of those screws the same price.. and nails its like a 1mm hole… as opposed to an 1/8…. and you just can’t get screws to work on smaller stuff… and fuck me its slow compared to nailgun… get a compressor.. its worth it!
I would not use for any trim I may want to remove temporarily – such as baseboard removal for painting and/or carpet replacement. I think I will find some of this type for screwing down the ends of deck boards into the joist; probably use my existing inventory of deck screws for mid-board screw down. Do you think the trim head screws would be appropriate for attaching wood spindles around the railing? (2 screws at bottom, 1 screw at top)
I was the owner – operator of a hardwood floor company for over 20 years and would use trim screws to repair existing hardwood floors when there was a bow in a board. I would then carve a tiny V shape on each side of the trim screw hole running parallel with the grain. After filling it, it would be almost invisible to the eye. -Rick, USMC
The only thing that sucks about deck trim screws is they take a T-20 driving bit. These bits CONSTANTLY round out, sometimes after only one single screw. T-25 and T-15 driving bits (the next sizes up and down) however seem to last nearly forever. So, if you’re going to be using deck trim screws to fasten an entire deck, go ahead and pick up 20 or so driving bits while you’re already at the store, otherwise you WILL end up going back.
First I’ve heard of Trim Screws. I do a bit of work building or rebuilding furniture-old Barnwood, wood from inside decrepit houses built way back when and Trim screws might be an answer to a problem. I build heavy and strong but in a way the item can be disassembled-I hide regular screws to not mess up the looks whereas Trim Screw would hide easier. I use Square nails that can be seen the rest are hidden screws. Appreciate this one.
The use of metal framing studs, joists and rafters is rare in homes, but could you address the good, the bad and the ugly when using roll formed metal components. I’m considering using them in a house with reinforced concrete floors. I’m sick of seeing insect and water damage and believe this will circumvent these problems. I’m sure there’ll be trade offs, but I’d like you to enumerate them.
There’s a hand tool called a Brad Pusher that looks like an awl, but with a tube instead of a point. A steel push rod inside the tube pushes brads up to 2″ into wood with the pressing force of your hand alone. Brad Pushers work just like those hex bit holders for very long drywall screws, and it’s perfect for tacking on a few pieces of trim like doorstop and the like.
have you done a vid on Spax screws? I love them for a lot of applications. No pilot holes. I have had only 1 or 2 blow outs or splits and that was getting too close to the edge of the soft board. They are a bit spendy but take less time. Gotta be good stuff as they are German engineered. I think they are wonderful just like your vids!
I use the stainless steel for PVC trim. Stainless are soft and it’s easy to strip the T 15 head. You can snap off the head if the wood doesn’t give. They don’t have the shear strength of steel but they don’t rust. I end up using them on all kinds of projects. You should counter sink and pre drill the wholes for wood and other wood projects. Never sink a screw into wood without predrilling and countersinking.
I buy and use trim screws all the time. It’s a lot harder to split the wood using them, and harder to damage the piece, because you’re not hammering a nail, which often ends up with either a bent nail or the hammer head sliding off the nail and denting the piece you’re trying to attach. Quality construction grade trim screws are stronger than nails, are impervious to the chemicals used to treat wood, and have Torx-type and Robertson-type heads that do not deform, but securely grip the driving bit, giving you much more control over the process.
Use a brad pusher. A cool little tool you didn’t know that you needed. This tool is old, but could save you a lot of money if you don’t want to buy a Brad nailer and air compressor. For a little tool it packs a punch on little projects around the house without breaking the bank. Sometimes using a hammer with dent the wood and leave head marks. Use it to install base board without a nail gun or hammer, or fix trim around the house.
I hate these, because I’ve had a local seller only stock screws with a head that was too narrow for the hardware I needed it to grab on to, even for the washers I had. In an infinite selection superstore or on Amazon, sure stock these. Heck, buy these if you need them. But the general purpose utility of these isn’t as great so on any limited selection store shelf, these would be a waste of space. But, you know, that’s just, like, my opinion, man.
Great website here! Great info, if you open your mind to it. This should be used in conjunction with a good Pro desk at your supplier. In the ’70’s, I took a trade course on tool repair, then worked the maintenance and repair shop for a large Fastener Company in Dallas. We served Production Factories and Pro Carpenters of all kinds. My work taught me a lot about tools, from humble staplers to giant Paslode Nailers, but the surprise knowledge that served me ever since: The fastener themselves! Do yourself a huge favor and go to the best source in your area, then find out who really knows the fastener stock. Listen to them as they show you the line they prefer. If you can’t find a knowledgeable person, you’re at the wrong place for learning about new products and spending. People have let low price alone govern their loyalties, to the point that big box stores truly believe that Pros want ignorant staff and won’t support that dept. providing people with expertise. Start demanding to talk to an expert at the Pro desk, then give them your business in exchange for a good price and service balance. They will save you time avoiding crappy tools and fasteners, and speed your work, raise your finish speed and grade. That makes you money. It’s like a good mechanic: find a good honest one, let him maintain your vehicle and it will run more reliably and sell better later! OK, I am getting down off the soapbox now… Dean
I’ve literally used them several years ago, still have some, and totally forgot they even exist. I came here for tips on driving finishing nails after aggravating with some on a project last night. Luckily I got the nails in as I would’ve had a fit if I’d messed up my wood after spending way too much time on the whole project.
Always known them as cabinet or “furniture” screws – I’ve used them on a few projects and plan to use them for a plywood ceiling project for my basement so I can remove the ceiling panels later if I need to access duct work or other mechanicals… I would also suggest looking at an inexpensive 18gauge pneumatic brad or combo brad/staple nailer – they’re about $40 for a decent one and if you don’t have a compressor you can make do with one around $60 so for $100 you’re in business for trim and small wood projects. People are far too “battery tool crazy” – cordless has it’s place too but if you’re an occasional user (home DIY) an air hose isn’t that big of a deal…
Trim head screws I’ve found to be superior for many nonstructural applications. They draw the pieces together much better than nailing, such as attaching crown molding and even some wainscoting applications. However, the heads of even these “trim” scews can result in cracking or otherwise distortion of the wood, so predrilling may still be necessary. I have I think 7 or 8 different air or battery gun nailers/crown stapler but am using them less often. Trum head screws only needing a drill and star bit most often means less clutter and less to carry and drag along to a job site or even in the workshop.
Thanks for the article. First time I’m hearing about trim screws. I was looking for info on a pneumatic finish nailer, found this article and decided to keep perusal. I was going to buy the air finish nailer but for now just going to use the trim screws for interior and exterior man door trim install. I have an air brad nailer a few years ago for a project, which I like. It’s 18 gage, want a 16 or 15 gage finish nailer next.
I don’t care to much for trim screws. I do use trim screws once in awhile but fifty years of carpentry experience still think a good trim gun or properly hand driven nails are best most often people forget they still have to hit wood when installing trim and trim requires thought and depends on the property it may demand a highly skilled carpenter have had to jump in and help more than one good carpenter is the last half century many years ago I let one guy use my miter saw and nail gun I had a coping saw and hand drivers only we trimmed out a room each about the same size I waited on him for probably fifteen minutes the thought sure as daylight he beat me until he got to the garage and I was sitting there waiting lol its not always what we are using skill levels matter.
I’ve pulled most of the trim from my 1977 house and found that somehow my dad and uncle, who built the house, managed to put trim nails in the wall first, then pounded the trim over the nail head without leaving hammer marks on the trim. Not all the trim in the house is like that, but a majority of it is. I have no idea how they could’ve accomplished this without bending those nails. I’ve pulled so much stained trim without nail holes, yet the nails holding the trim in place in the back of the trim are still stuck in the wall. No adhesives were used in the 1977 trim either.
You just saved me a bunch of extra time and frustration as my brad nailer broke in the middle of a project. Now I can at least finish the door that was already torn apart while I’m figuring out where this one last mystery piece goes in the nailer 🤔 I’m so glad I came across this vid, no idea these were a thing!
Yes these screws are super handy and my wife wanted a super heavy duty key and small kitchen tool holder so I used the colored trim screws of different colors to denote where the keys went and the tools on another part of the routered hard wood. It looked beautiful and the screws will hold everything from a big key ring to a pipe wrench~!!
I use them and agree they are a good option, but when I am joining a miter joint, I run them perpendicular to the joint line so the joint does not slip…just have to be careful not to use a finish screw which is too long, or the smooth portion of the shank is too short. One thing about the deck finish screws, the reverse threaded portion helps to make a clean hole when the head is seated.
Good article…I would have emphasized the benefits of pre-drilling even more..even when installing baseboard with trim nails, pre-drilling makes it SO much easier to hammer in the nail and eliminates splitting (and since you only need to drill a tiny hole for trim nails it only takes a couple seconds per hole!) Same for screws in my experience as far as ease of installation and prevention of splitting..
Great article! I’ve kind of known about that, but haven’t had need to try the finishing screws out, and didn’t really know if what I thought I knew was correct. Your perfect article has confirmed much of what I thought, added to it, and made things nice and clear. I’m really impressed by your articles in general, good stuff!! Thank you 😊
I’ve used a box of them & they have the added bonus of being able to be removed. So if there is any reason you might need to take something down or apart, then it is a better option than nails. It’s a perfect option for a small, light duty shelf or something to that effect. One of the problems with most common nails is that they are smooth wire shaped into a nail. I’d be curios about an experiment comparing the holding power of round vs the nail gun rectangular shapes.