This Old House provides a video tutorial on installing a perimeter drain, a crucial component of modern building water management systems. The video explains the installation process, including the placement of holes in the drain line, which is essential for optimal results. The interior weeping tile system helps extend the useful life of the concrete block foundation by draining cinderblocks and evacuating groundwater. The perimeter drain is a perforated pipe with a mesh “sock” covering it, installed underground, circling the perimeter of the building. Weep holes are holes or gaps along the bottom of the brick veneer that allow water to drain out from the wall and provide ventilation in the air gap behind the brick veneer.
An interior perimeter drainage system can work just as well as exterior excavation and waterproofing to keep a basement dry. The company drills holes in the walls to allow water to weep into the floor French drain, which is required for the retaining wall to supplement the drain line to drain groundwater from behind the wall to the exterior/front side of the building.
The optimal installation would have the pipe laid so that it de-waters everything down to and slightly below the low point of the footer. It is advisable to consider interior drainage and place 2-inch diameter weep holes every 5 or 6 feet on center around the perimeter of the footing.
📹 How to Install a Perimeter Drain | This Old House
Kevin O’Connor sees how Erik Kaminski installs a perimeter drain. SUBSCRIBE to This Old House: …
What if there are no weep holes?
Weep holes in masonry veneer walls can cause visible defects in the short term but can lead to significant damage over time. Proper flashing and adequate weeps/vents are necessary to prevent weeping over no weep holes. Lexington, KY is a top choice for finding and selling homes, including downtown condos, custom walkout ranches, and horse farms. The real estate agent specializes in nearby towns like Paris, Midway, Georgetown, and Versailles. It is essential to ensure proper weep holes are present to prevent potential issues.
How do you keep water from seeping through cinder blocks?
When waterproofing concrete block foundations, it is crucial to follow eight tips: meticulous preparation, repair cracks and fill gaps, use crystalline waterproofing, install an interior drain system, use vapor barriers and cove diverters, avoid sealing if stuccoing, address the exterior, and seal from the outside. Concrete block walls are solid, easy to lay, and cost-effective, but they also have inherent problems in keeping things watertight. Over time, gaps form due to building settlement and hydrostatic pressure from the surrounding ground, displacing mortar and forming cracks.
Even the best waterproofing systems will require maintenance and repair. Therefore, it is essential to address these issues and ensure the foundations are properly waterproofed to maintain structural stability and peace of mind.
Why is my perimeter drain not draining?
If you’re struggling to unclog your drain, it’s important to examine the surrounding area. If there are trees nearby, there may be roots or broken tiles inside the drain, making water flow slow or impossible. To determine the root cause, inspect the drain pipes with a video camera. If tree roots are the root cause, ensure the drain tiles are firm and perfectly fixed. Use a large mechanical drum auger with a root cutting blade to clear the drain line.
A needle nose drain cleaner is an effective method for cleaning clogged drains. However, it’s crucial to wear safety goggles and gloves before starting the process. Connect the cleaner to a trigger gun and place the nozzle one foot deep inside the drain, directing it towards the dirt. Turn on the pressure washer and pull back the nozzle after every few feet to ensure efficient cleaning. Once the process is complete, stop releasing water and cover the drain opening firmly.
What is the difference between a French drain and a perimeter drain?
Perimeter drains, also known as weeping tiles or French drains, are a type of drainage system that involves a perforated pipe installed underground around a house’s perimeter. The name “tiles” comes from Henry French, who popularized the method in the 1800s. The pipe, made of plastic or PVC, has thousands of tiny holes or slits that allow water to enter and drain away from the foundation. The pipe is often covered by a mesh permeable sock to prevent soil from entering.
How much does it cost to put weeping tile around a house?
The average cost of a French drain system in a yard is $1, 000 to $4, 000. An underground downspout system costs $150 to $350 per downspout. A basement or interior perimeter drain tile system costs $4, 000 to $12, 000. Exterior weeping tile installation costs $1, 500 to $4, 000 per side of house. Drainage systems improve a home’s water flow, reduce the need for expensive plumbing fixtures, and provide a clean, efficient water supply.
What is the alternative to weeping tile?
The Crack Doctor proposes the installation of a French drain system as a potential solution for the replacement of weeping tiles or the waterproofing of outdoor areas. The subfloor drainage system is installed beneath the floor and along the foundation walls, with a waterproof membrane connected to it.
Do cinder block walls need weep holes?
Weep holes are crucial for waterproofing in basements with block foundations. Concrete masonry units, such as cinder blocks or concrete blocks, provide a strong foundation. However, hollow blocks are more porous than concrete walls. Over time, tar, applied to the exterior of the blocks, degrades, allowing water to seep into the hollow blocks. This trapped water seeks the least resistance path and flows out any cracks, often into the basement.
What is the difference between a weep hole and a French drain?
Basement weeping tiles and French drain tiles are two types of waterproofing solutions. Weeping tiles are installed near the foundation to prevent water seepage by reducing hydrostatic pressure, while French drain tiles are fitted closer to the surface to drain water from low spots and prevent soil over-saturation. The cost of installing these systems depends on the location, required piping, and the unique needs of the surrounding and basement space.
GJ MacRae offers professional waterproofing services with a guarantee on all work, ensuring the best drainage solution for preserving the beauty of your basement and property. With a history of delivering industry-leading solutions since 1975 in the Great Toronto area, GJ MacRae has earned repeat customers and referrals, proving their quality work. Hire GJ MacRa for remarkable waterproofing solutions at an affordable rate.
How can I improve the drainage around the perimeter of my house?
In order to guarantee optimal yard grading, it is essential to utilise dense soil with inclines of a minimum of six inches for every 10 feet from the foundation. It is also imperative to refrain from employing mulch and sand, as these materials can impede water seepage. Furthermore, it is advisable to leave a four-inch gap between the exterior wall surface and the soil.
How to flush a perimeter drain?
A sewer jetter is a powerful tool for cleaning and removing dirt, sand, and yard debris from foundation perimeter drain tiles outside your home. It can be powered by your pressure washer and can help flush away silt and debris, reducing the likelihood of clogs returning. For smaller drains, a lower-cost, plastic-braided sewer jetter may suffice, while a Needle Nose™ drain cleaner with a tougher, braided steel jacket and compact nozzle tip can pass through more types and sizes of exterior and interior drains as small as 1-1/2″ ID.
Powering the sewer jetter with a gas pressure washer rated 2. 0 GPM to 4. 0 GPM can make the job easier, as outdoor silt and debris can take significant force to scrub and flush out of the line. Electric pressure washers are not recommended for cleaning drain tiles unless the clog consists of easily flushed material less than 25 feet from the bottom opening.
Before starting the job, find one or more drain openings that are downhill from the clog and clean in an uphill direction to give sediment a path to exit the drain. Avoid using a sewer jetter in cases where non-cylindrical basement waterproofing drain tile has rectangular corners that block sewer jetters and other drain cleaners. If a clogged drain tile does not have a round cross-section, contact the installer for help to service or replace the drain tile.
If you suspect a clog caused by tree roots or ceramic material, consider renting a large mechanical drum auger with a root cutting blade to clear the line. Inspect the drain tile with a video camera to ensure no large crack or damaged section could get stuck by a sewer jetter or mechanical snake.
Put on fluid-resistant work gloves and eye protection, connect the drain cleaner to your trigger gun, start the pressure washer, and guide the nozzle at least a foot into the drain tile opening. Pull back about halfway and continue moving forward for more thorough cleaning. After cleaning the drain tile, release the trigger to stop the flow of water before the nozzle reaches the drain opening and replace any drain cover.
To find a good service company, ask family, friends, and coworkers to recommend a company that has performed similar services for them. Search local directories like Google Maps, Yelp, and CitySearch for waterproofing service companies nearby with good online reviews. Be aware that good service companies sometimes have a backlog of several days during peak times, such as low temperatures, heavy rainfall, or holidays, which can indicate a strong customer base.
What is the problem with perimeter drain systems?
It is not uncommon for perimeter drains to become obstructed with a variety of materials, including soil, plant roots, and other debris. This can result in water seeping into basement walls. In the event of noticing water in one’s walls, it is of the utmost importance to contact a qualified plumber.
📹 How to Do AInterior Perimeter Drain
Installing an interior perimeter drain to a basement that had water/moisture issues. After the pipe was laid and topped with …
I went directly to TOH article thinking i was going to get the real deal like a Trethewey presentation. NOOOO. This is pathetic and i think these subcontractors need to be vetted before TOH puts their seal of approval on a job like this. It was wrong on every phase from gravel, pipe, fabricate, membrane….. The comments below are well founded.
I am completely shocked This Old House would air this clip: terrible piece of silt going over the gravel, they should have just made a proper burrito with the fabric, I can’t believe they used corrugated pipe and not schedule 40, nobody checked for slope, there’s no drain mat or concern for hydrostatic pressure…. this whole thing just seems like something a dufus handyman would put together.
They show perforations all around the pipe, I’ve always been told to use 4 inch pvc pipe with 3 rows of holes which are placed on the bottom. Also with the pipe shown being corrugated its going to build up fine particles over time and plug itself. Its a good idea to run two pipes, perforated to drain the foundation, and solid to drain your roof (if surface run isn’t viable).
So you are insulating the area of the house that is in the ground. Why? The ground is ensuring enough insolation. Is not going to freeze in there. What is the porpoise of that wasted insulation? Did i miss something? Also corrugated pipe… cheap fix. Use schedule 40, 4″ PVC…. that will last forever and will drain a lot better.