To restore a rusted exhaust system, start by thoroughly cleaning the rusted areas with a wire brush, sandpaper, or rust remover. Apply a rust converter or inhibitor to stop further corrosion. If the rust has caused holes or damage, patch or replace the affected parts for a complete restoration.
Use a wire brush to remove any rust, dirt, or debris from the inside of the muffler. Choose a non-corrosive cleaner specifically formulated for muffler cleaning to avoid further corrosion. Rinse the exhaust system regularly to remove corrosive substances like road salt and mud. Use high-temperature paint or powder coating to create a barrier against louder exhaust.
During an inspection, pay close attention to the surface of the exhaust pipes and muffler for signs of rust, such as discoloration, flaking paint, or the presence of red or brown spots. Regularly using wax can help prevent rust by preventing elements such as moisture and mud from entering the system.
To keep your muffler from rusting, routinely spray off the bottom of your car and the underside of your car. Upgrade to a stainless steel exhaust system to prevent rust and carbon buildup. If your exhaust becomes too rusty, it is time for replacement. If the car looks clean, remove the exhaust, block up one end, stick a sand blasting nozzle inside from both ends, seal one end off, and apply baking soda and water to the rusted exhaust surface. Gently scrub the surface with a soft brush or other tools.
📹 Inside A Rusted Out Muffler
I decided to cut open the muffler from the Honda Accord muffler replacement video to show you what’s inside. I was hoping it …
Does WD-40 remove rust?
WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a lubricant used in the aerospace industry to prevent rusting on metals like iron, chrome, and stainless steel. It can be used to loosen and remove excessive surface rust by spraying it on the surface, waiting for around ten minutes, and then scrubbing it off with abrasive. Its lubricating qualities loosen the bonds between the rust and the metal surface, providing temporary rust protection.
For stronger rust removal, WD-40 Specialist Fast Release Penetrant Spray can be used on nuts, bolts, chains, chrome car parts, stainless steel appliances, and fishing gear. WD-40 Multi-Use Product can be used on anything made from metal to enhance efficiency and make it last longer.
Is a damaged muffler bad?
A damaged or broken muffler can negatively impact a car’s engine performance, leading to higher emissions and reduced fuel economy. It is not always safe to drive with a damaged muffler, as it doesn’t always indicate a problem with the overall exhaust system. However, it is crucial to avoid this hazard. Even without an exhaust leak, the carbon monoxide your muffler typically emits can rise and enter your car, causing dizziness, headaches, and nausea.
These symptoms should be avoided, especially while driving, as they can lead to complete loss of consciousness. It is essential to ensure that your car’s exhaust system is functioning properly and that the muffler is properly connected to the engine.
Is rust on a muffler normal?
Old-fashioned mufflers made from base metals will eventually rust over time due to exposure to elements like rain, cooled engine exhaust condensation, and salt. These elements calcify on the surface, causing rust. To prevent this, it is recommended to replace old mufflers with stainless steel, carbon fiber, or chrome mufflers. Mufflers filter exhaust from vehicles, which is often laden with dangerous corrosive chemicals. These chemicals pool and condense when the muffler is cooled, accumulating on the surface, leading to rust that originates from the inside and eats through the muffler to the outside areas.
How do you fix corroded exhaust?
In the event that the exhaust pipe is severely corroded or otherwise compromised, it may not be feasible to repair and may necessitate replacement. Nevertheless, minor leakage or damage to the muffler can be rectified through the use of common tools, including patching or replacement. In the case of minor leaks, the use of exhaust tape or repair epoxy may prove an effective solution. However, in instances where the damage is more extensive, it may be necessary to seek the expertise of a qualified mechanic for a complete replacement.
Can I put my muffler back on?
To install a muffler, you need a jack, wrench, ratchets, lubricant, and hacksaw. Having a partner as a spotter is recommended for safety and handling of tools. Contact the experts at Warminster or Exton campus for assistance. Jack up your vehicle, ensure it’s on level ground, and block your wheels to prevent rolling away. Locate the muffler, usually towards the rear, and assess the situation. Contact the experts at Warminster or Exton campuses to start your automotive career.
Can a rusty muffler be welded?
A broken exhaust pipe can be fixed by welding in areas that are rusting out. However, mild steel welding wires are not resistant to corrosion, and salt used to melt ice in snow areas can corrode vehicles faster. A broken or rusty exhaust can affect the engine’s performance, causing slower acceleration, increased fuel usage, and a burning smell.
A clear sign of rusting is when the exhaust pipe is hanging under the car and gas smells in the cab. If left untreated, the problem could damage the car further and pose a safety hazard. Gas fumes, which contain carbon monoxide, can also be a safety hazard.
Ricks Auto Service offers preventive maintenance and major repairs for exhaust pipes. They can diagnose the problem and provide proper diagnosis. To contact them, call 574-255-4724 or visit their website at ricksautoservice. org/ricksautoservice. com/fuelpump/fuel-exhaustpipe-weld.
Does Coca Cola remove rust from metal?
Coca Cola, a popular household beverage, can help restore rusty cast iron cookware. It contains phosphoric acid, a chemical found in commercial rust removers, which helps break down rust. To use this affordable and easy hack, pour 4L of Coca Cola into a large container and submerge your rusty cast iron cookware, ensuring it is fully covered in the solution. This method is particularly effective when the cookware comes into contact with moisture or isn’t seasoned properly. The amount of Coca Cola needed depends on the size of your cookware, and a large storage container, bucket, or sink is also necessary.
What can I do about a rusty muffler?
Water or vapor sitting in your exhaust system for too long can cause rust, a corrosive effect that reacts with iron in steel, forming iron oxide. Short trips can cause moisture to vaporize, leading to premature corrosion. Driving distances of 20 miles or more can help burn the moisture in the exhaust system. Salt can accelerate the rust and corrosion process, especially during winter months. Frequent washing of the undercarriage and running the vehicle long enough to allow water to dry can help remove salt and dirt buildup. Rust is a sign of age and corrosion, and replacing a component or the entire system is recommended.
Muffler damage can also cause engine noises to be louder, which could result in police arrest or failure to pass yearly safety and emissions tests. A rusty muffler may also emit carbon monoxide and other gases, causing dizziness, headaches, and nausea. If a loud muffler is due to a hole, do not drive the vehicle and have it inspected by an auto technician.
Control noise, move exhaust fumes away from passengers, improve engine performance, and improve fuel consumption.
Does a rusty exhaust affect performance?
Performance issues are common symptom of a problematic exhaust manifold, as damaged or corroded pipes can cause an exhaust leak, causing a decrease in power, acceleration, or fuel-efficiency. A burning smell from the engine bay is another common symptom, as excess heat can damage electrical and plastic parts nearby. Burning components can produce a smell, sometimes accompanied by smoke, and can lead to other issues. If any burning smells occur, it should be checked out immediately to ensure there is no major issue.
A noticeable exhaust smell, similar to the smell of raw gas, may also be a sign of a problem with the exhaust tubes. If any pipes or tubes become damaged and leak, exhaust fumes may enter the cabin, emitting a smell of raw gasoline.
Do mufflers corrode from the inside out?
The exhaust system’s lifespan is primarily determined by its internal corrosion, which is caused by acidic moisture produced by the combustion of air and gasoline in the engine. Factors such as regional climate, driving habits, and the type of system (single or dual) can affect the lifespan of an exhaust system. However, a premium aftermarket exhaust system typically has a lifespan of two to three years, depending on driving habits and other factors.
The exhaust system can wear out due to various reasons, including the presence of acidic moisture in the engine, which breaks down the parts from the inside out. Therefore, it is crucial to consider these factors when determining the lifespan of a vehicle’s exhaust system.
Can you paint a rusty muffler?
The barbecue grill was painted black a few years ago, which resulted in the formation of rust. However, the use of a high-heat paint, such as Rust-Oleum, has been shown to slow down the process of corrosion.
📹 Top Secret Mechanics Trick 2! HOW TO remove extremely rusty exhaust nuts FAST without heat.
In this video I demonstrate the fastest and most efficient way to remove extremely rusty exhaust hardware without heat! Never use …
the muffler on my old 95 Accord V6 broke completely off an the muffler inlet and the muffler shell was starting to unravel, but the case and internals were still intact enough to were it wasn’t loud older Honda’s not assembled in the US have thinner exhaust which is why you see tons of old Honda’s with replaced or rotted out exhausts, i had made redone at a muffler shop from the cat back with no resonator and a turbo mufflers, sounds pretty good, not loud but flows better, the high rpm Honda engines like the extra flow
What brand of muffler was it? as Walker exhaust products are much worse they rust out prematurarly the one vehicle i had its muffler got blown by a backfire as it had no cat on it which was not required on pre 1975 vehicles. since then i went with all stainless steel pipes, resonators and Mufflers custom made as they are going to last the life of the car not only they cost more it will pay off the number of years u need to replace a muffler or exhaust as there is 409 and the best 304 stainless steel. as i had a 304 stainless steel on my 99 Honda CR-V when its transmission failed and 127,000 miles it never rested ever not even the welds or muffler. i wouldn’t go with walker as i would go with another brand of muffler and getting your pipes custom made of stainless steel.
Pretty slick! For less rusted but hopelessly stuck nuts that you really want to save, clamp a pair of Vise-Grips on the nut as hard as you can. That forces the thread together in the direction it is being clamped and opening up a small gap 90 degrees from it. Spray penetrant oil on the end, letting the fluid wick in. Repeat on as many pairs of faces as you can, then use the usual tools to remove the nut. It will still fight, but at least 3/4 of the time I simply could not get a nut loose this made it happen.
Thanks for the straight forward article… If you DON’T have air tools or hammer-drills, you can use a dremel with reinforced cutting wheel and cut a groove into the nut and pry with a flat-head screwdriver OR cut 2 grooves from 2 different angles and watch it fall off on its own. Takes two minutes. Less time if more rot 🙂
This also works with stuck bearing races. I do it all the time when changing wheel bearings. Obviously isnt going to work on every single rusted thing ever but it does work quite often, Id say like 85% of the time. Sometimes a saw and replacement parts are just better, just use your judgement. Excellent article 👍👍
Great to see someone with hands almost as beat up as my own…Say, do you ever temporarily put a new nut where the first one was removed? It will stiffen up the connection so to increase the effectiveness of the technique used on the second nut. I noticed it seemed that everything was shedding rust with the second one. Might increase mileage with all the rust weight loss… Good trick, thanks.
Nifty ! I’ve seen quite a few of what I’d otherwise consider damn good mechanics waste a lot of time with heat on such jobs. Even just a regular hammer & chisel will work virtually every time so long as you have access. Luckily my uncle taught me this when I was a kid. A torch is a must for certain things though.
Awesome, had to remove exhaust on my truck, the nuts on my exhaust flange looked just like these, thought I’d be cutting them off with hot wrench and replacing studs, took a chance and watched this, within 20 minutes after perusal I had everything off, saved me at least 90 minutes of work. Thanks so much!!!!!!
Hey MotorMike…. I used your method EXACTLY on my Toyota exhaust flange. My flange looked much like in this article. Viola! It worked perfectly!!! and as you said, the threads on this rusted stud under the nut were perfect while the rest of the stud was corroded. I was so exited that this worked. Thanks for your article.
@MotorMike unfortunately I used a grinding wheel to seperate the flanges, it worked, however, a piece of metal fell down into my muffler. Now, while holding the muffler in my hands, and and flipping it 180 degrees, I can hear the metal piece moving all around. I tried using a magnetic tool retriever, but no luck getting the piece out. Any advice is greatly appreciated, thank you for your time sir.
The nuts used on exhaust hardware, especially on clampts like the one shown, are typically fairly soft steel. It is not hard to cut that groove into one of them by striking it with a cold chisel, using a hammer on the cold chisel. A power tool makes the job a little faster, but is not needed. Takes maybe 15 seconds with an air-chisel, 60 seconds with a hammer and chisel. If there is a enough space, you may be able to crack the nut by using a “nut-cracker” around the nut. This is a simple tool that cuts into the nut using a threaded rod to apply the leverage that is used to force a cold chisel into the nut. The threaded rod is used instead of a a hammer. It is king od like like putting a c-clamp around the nut, but instead of clamping onto the nut, the device cuts into the nut.
I absolutely WISH i could post a picture here. Im doing up pipes on my 2000 7.3 and this method has helped me get the bolts out and i tried heat and alll😂 thank you very very much for this article. You should see how tight of a space im working in too haha both pipes are in-between the engine an fire wall lol
I wish to clarify the point that he is not cutting all the way through; that will ruin the threads. The trick is to stop before you get too close and oval the stud or distort the threads. He is cutting only 1/2 to 2/3 the way, It is when you angle and turn the nut that it splits the rest of the way (or simply may come off unsplit). It may have not been apparent from the views that it split only after the chisel is redirected away from the threads; and tension, not compression, is now acting on the nut… Forgive me if anyone already said this; I am abandoning my previous diligence to browse the comments and post a like and comment there, if someone already posted this. (TOO many good comments and not enough hours in a week…) -OH, Superb article! Mr K L
Your chisel bits are tool steel. Put them in a vice and use a file to sharpen them. The heat from the grinder will stuff the tensil of the tool stell in the tip, soften it and will wreck it. Also air chisels are banned in the workplace in some countries, too loud, use ear protection or pardon what was that will be your favourite saying.
When you first started to manually knock off the loose rust with the sharpened air chisel it brought to mind the fellow who bought a chain saw. The salesman told him this saw would enable him to cut 10 cord of wood a day. The fellow came back to the store and told the salesman he wanted his money back as he could only cut 8 cords of wood with the saw. The salesman said, “let’s go out in back and see what’s wrong with the saw.” The fellow followed the salesman out to the back and when the salesman fired up the saw the fellow said, “What’s that noise?!?” Great article thumbs up.
My CP long barrel is still kickin’ even though I retired in ’85. That’s Chicago Pneumatics, not Central (HFT), to you new guys. BIG difference. Now tell us how to remove exhaust manifold bolts from the heads. That was always my bane to existence. Good tip, Mike. I wouldn’t be surprised to hear (literally) of CAT thieves using it next week.
That’s one way but honestly I’d prefer a die grinder in this situation (1/4 collet rotary tool) with a cut off wheel. A dremel would be more common in home garages. Either is quicker, cheaper, less noise and more accessible. To the regular DIY guy, just a dremel type tool cut off. I bet more people have a dremel aka 1/8th collet rotary tool than an compressor and air chisel with chisels. I’d just replace the bolt too 🤷♂️ Also you can fit a rotary type tool in many more spaces than that chisel. Get the good reinforced cut off wheels though. Those cheap ones suck!!
Something that rusted, why wouldn’t you just replace the studs as well? Maybe it’s something for the rust belt. Here in Texas, rust like that takes decades of neglect, and even then, it’s not always that rust like that develops. My first car was a 77 and I got it in 2001 and it only had surface rust, even on the exhaust.
Another approach to removing rusted nuts is to brush it with 30% muriatic acid, they sell it at Home Depot. The acid dissolves the rust very quickly, in about 30-40 seconds, might take more time for deep rust but it works. Just pour some muriatic acid in a cup and brush it on the rusted nut until the rust is gone then it should come off easily. The fumes of the muriatic acid are strong so use a respirator and safety goggles and gloves, in a well ventilated area.
Ops, could have saved myself a lot of hassle. When I saw the nuts on my cat I cut them off straight away. But because my car is lifted on small ramps for DIY, I don’t have much space to continue with the job so had to remove the cat itself too to be ale to hopefully knock out the old bolts now. Thanks anyways, great tip. Take care!
Red wrench…. AIN’T IT JUST AIN’T IT 😜 lols… I ran Muffler shops for many years…. I admit I have had to use this method many times….But a torch can be used to cut without removing thread… I use to cut studs from exhaust Port…Head bolts from Engine block.. especially on the older Cadillac… I have a technique…never cut a thread….
Ha! coincidence: I found that method already myself before the intenet existed…Two hits with a 1 kg hammer will do every nut. 2. The fire-spanner.(= blowtorch) solves everything. 3. The grinder with a metal cutting disk, the best a small one with small diameter. Working on rusty dynosaurs is a job….
Wow, wow, WOW!!!! I had no idea. Thank you for this article. I’m about to do some exhaust work on my 300K-mile Tundra and it’s scary-rusty under there and I was wondering how in the hell I was going to get those bolts off if they’re really bad. Simply amazing technique. Who knew those threads would still look so good under a mile of rust like that???
This s a great example, number one the Catalytic Converter is pricy, so anything that increases the chance of reusing it is worthy … Number two it’s fast .. cutting off the bolt and tryg to redrill it, for a regular bolt and nut, is time consuming, and makes it more likely to leak exhaust fume or noise.. For the home mechanic, air hammers are cheap you don’t need Blue Point for hobby use, AND you can get by with an air compressor a fraction of the CFM required by the air tool (read no 20 HP Shop Compressor needed) .. a cheap small air compressor WILL work, you just have to pause frequently, to let it air up to full power.
I am a believer. Also, Trailblazer front differential fill plug, about 1-1/4″ diameter, with a 15mm hex boss in center, stripped, and no practical way to grab the rounded protrusion… Air chisel with a sharp v- actually a semicircular point, removed this ruined dog by peening a nice double-dimple, then it came right loose.
I had a 1970 Land Rover and used a nut splitter on my exhaust nuts. Very easy to do. It’s a similar thing to doing this. I saw this and thought there might be an idea for me, then realised it’s a car. I just got the nuts off my motorbike exhaust today before seeing this but I couldn’t have done it anyway, exhaust and fins in the way. I did have to use a hexagonal socket for maximum grip, those multifaceted things are no good and slip off. The gasket had blown so I first tried to tighten the nut then undo it. I did this several times and got it moving and carried on and used WD40 to wash away any rust. Same with the second one. As you say, the thread is still good. I considered drilling into the top of the nuts to help break the rust seal.
air hammers are one of the most useful tools… i remember when my grandpa got me my first devilbiss set when i was little… well, young, i was 5’11” and 270 when i was 12. went from running back when i was 8 and “normal” size, to supersize lineman by the end of my first football season gaining 40 lbs in that season alone… never did get any taller… did get a tad wider, though. which is nice… 😒 i’m just off on some tangents today.
Hey MotorMike, great professional article. I am trying to replace my rusted exhaust muffler on a 2003 Dodge Dakota, my rusted bolts came off great using penetrating oil on them, however, I can’t get the muffler to come loose from the pipe on either side, what is your advice on how to separate teh old muffler from teh pipes? Thanks
Omg after all the years of struggling with blow torches brute force and lots of swear words,I was thinking of angle grinding these bolts off but limited space,so tried your technique and yes I confirm it worked perfectl and took 2 mins with a dewalt hammer drill and grinded sharp chisel bit so happy and thank you got 2 more left to get off 👍
Haven’t seen this done for quite some time. Thanks for the reminder. We used to do this with just a hammer and chisel on stubborn nuts back in the day on my dad’s log truck. I’m going to use this method to remove the rusty u bolt nuts from my old boat trailer tomorrow. Looking forward to putting my air chisel to good use.
Having had an old land rover that was used for all sorts of off road driving, you quickly learn that it’s far quicker to just chisel off the bolts. I used to use a wide bolster chisel and club hammer and just cut the bolt. Land rovers are bolted together so they have lots of fasteners. Far easier to just cut the bolt right off and replace it. I’ve never used a nut splitter or air chisel.
In that situation, I would go about it in the following way: Take a drill and drill a 4mm hole sidewise into the nut, just as far as the tread of the stud. Then take the chissel well sharpenned and split the net by edging it in the hole direction parallel to the exhaust pipe. Once split you can easily twist it with a plyers. Your method is more cumbersome, as the pipe swings sidewise, unless you fix it with a timpber block against the chassis. At work — I would take the gas welder and a burner size 3 — heat up the nut to red hot, then twist it open with the wter pump plyers, — thats probably the quickest method–
I have a 2020 GTI and bought it brand new and yesterday I was going to install my downpipe but the band clamp that holds the resonator to the downpipe had the rustiest bolts I’ve ever seen. Everything was clean underneath but the bolts on the clamp was pure rust. Absolutely no threads visible so I had to postpone the project
I don’t usually gush on about a article. I usually like it when they get right to the point and I try to do the same thing. But now that they have that little shadow graph that show the most replayed part of the article, I don’t mind as much. Anyway. I thought it was well lighted and easy to see the details and explained well. Nice.
Torch is way faster. If you are going to use an air chisel, it would be faster to just sheer the bolt off and get a new one. If your air chisel wont sheer that little bolt off, you need a better one. In the time it took to sharpen your bit, those nuts would be out with a torch. Another faster method would be using a die grinder with a cutoff wheel, as long as you have access. How do I know this? I have been a mechanic for over 40yrs and worked on marine equipment for some of that time, where everything is rusted away.
Ok this is great if you have a lift to take the car up high, and if you have the power tools to use and you have power. But then if you have all that why would you leave it so long to tackle a job like this, if you have a lift why wouldn’t you put that car up on that thing and check it over periodically? It’s just a thought. So if you don’t have all that stuff and all you got is hand tools, no power and rusty nuts, it’s a different story I know. To achieve a similar result you could use a nut splitter, a hammer and chisel, but it is harder work, especially every time you hit that chisel with your hammer bits of rust falls into your face because you are laying under the car which is on stands, fortunately you are wearing eye protection except unless you get decent eye protection they steam up especially in winter.
Whilst what you show is good its only good if you have a car ramp Just imagine trying to do this on your back under a car with about 2 foot clearance ???? And like me on a gravel drive !!!!! best just get an angle grinder and start all over again with new nuts and bolts ?The one thing you have shown me is to use a hammer gun now that is worth knowing so thanks for that !! still a good up load well done !!
I torch one side of the nut, as close as possible to the stud, with a little practice you can cut the nut, and leave the stud perfect, I prefer this method because I abhor air hammer noise, far more than torch work. The a hammer is good where you are close to the fuel tank / evap bits. Still a good alternative, a toolbox full of techniques is a great tool in itself.