Timeless Instruments provides a detailed guide on how to repair the soundboard of a guitar in various stages of disrepair. The article discusses five common acoustic guitar problems and their solutions. The first problem is that there is no signal from the guitar, which can be resolved by matching the guitar, mic, and mic position correctly. This can be achieved by dropping the guitar in its case or running into a mic stand or your partner’s.
A tensioning tool from a tuning machine can be used to clamp small veneer “cleats” from the inside. Most acoustic guitar cracks can be sealed with good adhesive or glue, but timing is crucial as the separation often expands when neglected. Dirt and oils can also cause issues. To fix this, solder the red AKG wire onto the RING (assuming it’s the shortest of the three unmarked lugs) or drill out the endpin hole to mount the 1/4″ jack.
To ensure that the mic can pick up only the sound of the guitar and not its own signal, finger movement over the strings can help. The capsule barely squeezes through the opening in the windscreen section, which does come loose once the 5 screws are removed. A heating pad or modified soldering iron can be used to loosen the fretboard tongue from the sound board.
In conclusion, Timeless Instruments provides a comprehensive guide on how to repair acoustic guitar cracks and ensure that the mic can pick up only the sound of the guitar.
📹 Broken Acoustic Preamp? Try these fixes – Guitar Repair Advice
At one point or another, all acoustic electrics have issues with either scratchy noises or just flat out not working. These are a …
📹 How to fix the endpin jack on an acoustic guitar
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Hello – I have a Takamine G-series acoustic guitar. The volume slider on the guitar is ultra sensitive to the point where I have to VERY careful adjusting it at shows. It goes from zero to very loud within the first 1/4 of the slide allotment. Meaning the top 3/4 is not even usable. I really appreciate your website and your advice! – Dave
I always preferred my roller knobs on the front of the guitar, as opposed to the slider potentiometers and the preamp box on the top. I just ordered a classical acoustic and now it’s on back order, so while I’m at it, I am trying to find what little info I can on the resistance values of the potentiometers inside any of the acoustic preamps out there. I got one from guitar fetish’s website and I think it was either a 100k or a 10k, but it was a long time ago, and I can’t remember. I’ve been hunting and any active audio equipment can be using pots of any size. I do know they differ a lot from the active circuitry found with EMS’s. They’re only 25k but I’m thinking of around 100k for those slider pots found on acoustics. It’s one of those things that I feel like these manufacturers should provide, instead of having to order them before hand (even though I’m only one guy asking for one weird request), rip it apart after it arrives, look to see if the potentiometers have any printing on them, if not, THEN I got to rip them off, if inaccessible, THEN bust out my tester in hopes to find their value. It’s ok for me to do it that way for myself, BUT after I’m done with my project, I’ll offer it to anyone else who likes my setup at gigs and open mics. It just is a shame these companies don’t list those kinds of things. I don’t want to say “yeah I can do it” and suddenly their choice of preamp has something that I can’t even find on a site like mouser.com … then I’m stuck with “I can’t do it”, which is not my business calling card.
Bought a new fender acoustic electric a couple months early for my sons birthday when it was on sale at guitar center. He opened it and tried it and now found out it does not produce sound!! The electric control box lights up, and the built it tuner works, have done all the simple checks like volume etc. But still no sound any ideas?
Hope do notice me sir, My acoustic guitar is great on sounding, wood, and comfortability when unplugged but the problem is the electronics because it’s almost 10 years already’ it is working still but last pandemic; the preamp won’t work anymore even there’s a good battery plus i’d opened it up and the problem is the one wire and i’d soldered it up and it works but after 2 years now; it don’t work again and check again the wires’ the wires is good and no dirt and the battery is ok also but didn’t lightened up and works on plug in’ what could be the issue now? I repeat; the guitar unplugged is all good on playing matter but the problem is when plugged: what should be the problem?
Question: Can the preamp internal level be adjusted? I ask because when I play my guitar aggressively there is distortion coming out. I hear it on recordings and live gigs. I’ve tried turning the down the level on the guitar, used a DI box with different levels of attenuation and it does not reduce the distortion. When I play less aggressively it has a nice clean tone.
Very good article! Will likely save me about $78 usd – all I need is a dowel rod. Great length of article while showing the steps in plenty of detail to give me confidence to perform it for myself. The best thing is I don’t have to leave my very expensive guitar “at the shop” (aka tech’s showing off their skills to their bff’s for a week with a customer’s pricey guitar). I can do this at home in 10 minutes & my guitar never leaves my sight. Thank you!
I have a small parlor guitar so the sound hole is smaller than normal plus it has a LL. Bags pick up screwed in on either side. I took the pick up off once and it took literally four hours for me to get the screws lined up a. And yes the pin is loose again. I will try anything short of removing that pick up again.