To repair a leaky outdoor faucet, turn off the water to the spigot, remove the handle of the sillcock by unscrewing the screw that keeps the handle in place, and unscrew the packing nut around the faucet. Replace the old packing cord with a new one, reassemble the faucet, and attach the handle back. All you need is a screwdriver.
To install or repair a leaky frost-proof outdoor faucet sillcock or hose bibb, use longer-stem frost-proof outdoor faucets. Remove the old outdoor water faucet sill cock by positioning a pipe wrench at the back of the sill cock and turning the wrench counterclockwise. Have an assistant use a pipe wrench to hold it.
Loaded frost-proof faucets can waste a lot of water, but fixes are simple, whether the problem is the faucet stem washer assembly, the vacuum breaker, or just a loose retaining nut. Mark Donovan shows how to fix a leaky frost-free sillcock or outdoor faucet using simple tools, saving a call to the appliance repair company.
To determine the source of the outdoor faucet leak, turn off the water supply valve to the sillcock inside the house, remove the handle screw, and use an adjustable wrench to remove the hexagonal hole around the stem valve hole. If there is no hue around these parts, a homeowner can install a hose-thread vacuum breaker on a old sillcock, if desired.
📹 How To Fix a Leaking Frost Proof Faucet | DIY Plumbing
How To Fix a Leaking Frost Proof Faucet can save you money. This is a great DIY project. Fixing a valve and repairing a frost …
📹 How To Fix a Water Leak Behind the Handle of an Outdoor Faucet
Tools Needed 1. Standard flathead screw driver 2. 3/8″ Socket 3. 7/8″ Socket Tools Every Weekend Warrior Needs Makita Corless …
Thanks so much Roger for the great article and instructions. The ‘new’ frost free faucet on my ‘brand new’ home was leaking at vacuum breaker top and with your help saved me from calling the plumber. Appreciate the detail and explanation in your article. All your articles are informative and thorough. Thanks again!
So, I replaced the washer and the faucet still leaked. I then watched your article, took the faucet apart again, and realized that the surface with the writing on it was facing the seat. Found another washer and also used your advice about the grease. Problem solved! Thanks for taking the time to make this article for us simple folk.
Great content. I’m here because I have already ordered a repair kit. I have Prier frost-proofs which has a plastic packing nut that won’t tighten anymore to stop it from leaking. It probably needs the packing to be replaced. The packing nut should be a metal in my opinion. I’m glad that I’m a jack-of-all-trades or I would be broke with all the home repairs that need to be done. I have training in auto mechanics, mechanical, plumbing, electrical, water, and wastewater treatment and even swimming pools thanks partly to my USAF training in Civil Engineering and also my past City employment, and I have since retired as a Utilities Director for a private community.
As a homeowner, the biggest problem I had was not perusal this article first! I ended up breaking the handle off from the rod by overtightening it with website lock pliers when the water wouldn’t shut off (the plier method let me turn off/on the water about 3 times before the snap). Now I need to cut a hole in the drywall of my bedroom closet to get to the other end of the Frost Proof and replace the entire thing!
@Roger Wakefield. Thanks for the tips on repairing these frost proof faucets. The only suggestion I have is before tightening a bonnet nut, open the stem or valve first. I’ve had the stem get really tightened against the seat after tightening the bonnet nut. Hope you and your family stay safe and well.
Don’t use those here in Hawaii, but definitely brought back memories from when I installed plenty of those in Michigan, wow 12 years goes by fast, lol. Great article, very informative and very accurate. As always Mr Wakefield you are consistently helping others. A down to earth and genuinely a good person. Thank you for that.
Hi. Thank you. Your instructions were easy to follow and very helpful. The frost free was leaking from the vacuum breaker on the top. I could only find one kit in my area. Unfortunately the main piece had the wrong threads. So I replaced the float as it fit into the old main piece. Then swapped the old gasket out for a new one on the main piece…one layer of Teflon on the threads for good measure. Reseated it the faucet… one layer of Teflon on the top..replace the cap and woohoo no leak!! Easy Peasy!! 😀
I had a leak coming out of the handle, but If I really turned the handle hard I could stop the leak, or at least get it down to a slow drip. I pulled the stem out and noticed the last inch or so was a little larger, and there was a cone shaped rubber seal. After looking at pictures of different stems I think it’s what they call an Arrowhead stem. I meant to replace that rubber piece too, but I bought the wrong one, so when I got home I convinced myself I didn’t need to replace it. While at the hardware store a lady that worked there, said, “You need a #00 washer.” Well the original washer was pretty flattened and spread out it looked a lot bigger than the #00 washer, so I thought, “That’s not big enough.” I bought a #0 washer and of course when I got home and tried to put it in it was too big. Also, when I tried to remove the screw to remove the washer I noticed the whole seat assembly was turning and when I put needle nose pliers on it to hold it the end seemed to freely move in and out of that larger end of the stem. I was afraid I’d broken it. As it turns out I had a whole package of #00 washers, so I didn’t even need to go to the hardware store. I replaced the #00 washer, put plumbers grease on the cone-shaped piece of rubber, the new washer and also on the “O” ring at the handle end of the stem and put everything back together. To my amazement, when I turned the water back on there wasn’t any leak and of course it was a lot easier to turn off the water at the faucet now. Thanks for the article.
I did a bit of building and ground maintenance. Had 30+ cabins built in 1930s. Plumbing and electrical were updated and some modern appliances installed in the mid-2000s. The kitchen faucets chosen were to mimic what had been originally installed. I’m not sure of the technical name, but it was pretty simple. Single wall tap for H and C side, faucet was a J-Shape and the handle on top. We flipped washers, replaced them, replaced the valve seats and I would take corroded seats and give them second life with a fine metal file. Sometimes it’s what you need to do when you don’t have the parts. Worked like a charm. Amateur plumbing, electrical, locksmith, carpenter, etc. All learned by paying attention to people much more skilled than me and asking questions. Much respect
hi great presentation and very through too. I have a leak on my Nebco 90 faucet (12in) behind the valve somewhere. When I turn on the water I hear it falling behind the wall somewhere into my crawl space, the water sound stops once I turn the valve off. I believe that we have a crack in the copper, as we left the hose connected one year during winter. I removed the stem, packing nut, etc, and tried to turn the entire faucet with a wrench turning left, but I gave up fearing I might turn it too much and brake it, as it would not give an inch. I am unable to verify if the anti siphon was threaded into the fitting behind the wall. I assume that it was threaded into the pipe into the house, and not welded, as there is no easy access point for a plumber. What would you advise i try? thanks in advance for your knowledge.
Is there a tool to remove the valve seal if it breaks free from the stem? I tried putting pressure/water behind it (and it’s in open position). Only think else I can think to try is to take a really long drill bit and try to make contact enough to finish pulling out. Would really like to avoid cutting a hole in my living room wall to change out the whole thing.
Mr. Wakefield, thanks. I understand that ASSE 1019-A is a standard used for plumbing parts, but to get the correct vacuum breaker kit I need the model number. The only number I see is located under the ASSE 1019-A, and it’s 2890-with some kind of shield looking thing. On the other side are the letters N.W. Where might the model be? In the wall or something? Appreciate it.
I have a double headed frost free on the outside of the house that has both cold and hot handles. Don’t see a manufacturer name. It was leaking out the hot valve stem lots when either the hot or cold was on. I pulled the hot side valve assembly out but strangely I can’t get access to the valve stem packing.
My frost free faucet did not pull out of the sleeve when loosened…turns out it was a quarter turn faucet with a mechanism at the valve end and a washer had jammed in the pipe. I replaced the entire unit as chasing down multiple parts and washers didn’t seem worth the effort after getting the old faucet out of the wall.
I just noticed an incicle coming out of my frost free! Any suggestions on how to troubleshoot while Temps are below freezing? We Should climb to 40* next week. How to trouble shoot then? I have a frost free that has the vacuum above. I noticed no leak previously and there is no water in the crawl space. Thanks!!
Mine was leaking from behind the valve handle. I bought a repair kit before inspecting in case it was a bad washer and I wasn’t able to get it back in working order as we use water for our plants every day almost. Well, it turned out the repair kit was only for the top bit that releases air. At that point, I had the handle off and removed the other bit behind the handle where I didn’t see any washers anyway. I reinstalled and tightened the nut bit behind the handle, hoping that tightening it would stop the leak. So far, so good.
Excellent article, I have the frost proof anti siphon sill cock valve and it leaks where the water hose connects to the faucet. I can’t turn it off, the handle keeps turning and turning. I can eventually get to a spot where it almost drops dripping but not quite. The slightest turn of the handle and it leaks even worse than I have to tun the handle till I find the sweet spot again but it still leaks. I put a two way hose connector on it that has two separate shutoff valves and that’s how I got it stop leaking but that’s not good for winter time. Do I need to replace the entire faucet or is there a repair for a handle that won’t stop turning when shutting off? Thank you again for the great article.
Hey Roger, thanks for the article.. I live in Dallas area and just had my outdoor spigot flood my house. I guess the freeze a week ago had caused it to bust and a few days later I had my fence stained and the crew had a water hose hooked to it causing my house to flood.. Thanks for the article Sir, and go Cowboys!!
As a homeowner, when I had to change mine, the hardest thing was figuring out how to measure it for size. I did not know if i was supposed to measure just the stem or the whole thing. I ended up ordering it 2 or 3 times til I got the right size. Then I just changed the entire stem and left the rest of the enclosure as it was since it is soldered on. Mine is an obscure brand too. I think McDonald or something like that. The label on the twist valve has long worn off. Since then i am very careful not to over tighten it when shutting off the water. Good info here Roger.
Having trouble finding a repair kit for my Mueller B & K 1019A 10″ faucet. I don’t know the Mueller part number. Water is leaking out of the screw for the handle, as well as the two holes just inside the faucet stem near the handle. I am not sure how to find the part number or the repair kit for this faucet. A plumber told me Mueller or B&K went out of business, but I don’t think that is true. I cannot find the kit on Amazon nor Google Shopping. Am I looking in the wrong places?
Right after the livestream a new article heck yeah, also my dad laughed at when you pronounced my name wrong and when you went blank, hey I got another tool question the next time you go love and it’s about a specific tool that I think you would benefit from. Again thanks for answering my questions, I love your content, and you’ve made me laugh more than once. Also just call me Parker. P.
My Woodford Spigot when I remove the first segment, the stem is still behind a second and I can’t seemingly get the second one off. I had this replaced by a plumber about 13 years ago. So it is not very old. The problem was with the handle not turning off and on correctly. It would pop out some . I thought it was just the screw but that wasn’t the case. Any suggestions?
Love the article, but I fell even before the first hurdle. The screw holding the handle on was so rusted in that I ended up shearing it off (despite copious WD40). The weird thing is that even though the whole screw head come off, complete with its flange, the handle was still secured fast (I expected to it just fall off). I would drill the rest of the screw out but..while their is stopcock inside the house just before the faucet connection to isolate it, that stopcock also shows signs of copper corrosion and is also stuck fast, so I have to shut the water off for the whole house to work on this. Time to call a professional!
Hi interesting info here but my frost free faucet has a different problem. Its so recessed the vacuum siphon hits the next layer of vinyl and cant come off. Soooo cant change it because it is leaking, cant use it, so tell me again why i need thisorhow to adjust the nightmare in a way that would prevent this from happening every year. Pictures available upon request.
I don’t know how to tell if mine is a freeze proof or just a normal faucet. But I can push the knob in and the water pressure pushes the handle back out. It leaks where the knob goes into the housing. I have replaced washers but don’t know if I got the right size. Should I use some packing or just get a new set up?
Homeowner here, usually just change out the silcock bc it’s cheap enough. Probably have changed 4 or 5 on my old house (before I smartened up and started unhooking hose and turning off water in winter lol). Unfortunately our new house has the silcock soldered in 🤦🏻♀️ and that’s just annoying to deal with lol. Thanks for the tips! I’m sure it’s not cracked this time (access in basement), so I’ll check the other things out, appreciate it!
I have a 1019-a hose bib that is leaking around the handle only when valve is open. I checked the gasket seal around the o.d of the stem and it appeared ok. I tried opening valve to see where water is coming from and its actually a strong stream of water coming out the center of the stem when the handle screw is removed. Water is coming out the threaded hole of stem when handle retaining screw is removed. If i put the handle and screw back in it slows the leak but still a considerable leak. Not sure why water would be leaking out the center of the stem and only when valve is open
Hi Roger. I’m trying to repair a Moen outside cold water faucet, freeze proof, that has a small leak from the faucet. I followed your article (very helpful) and removed the packing nut, unscrewed and removed the shaft to get at the rear washer, which is damaged. My problem is the screw holding the washer. It’s on a plunger type piston that’s inside the copper shaft. Turning the screw turns the entire piston rod. I’m trying to hold it with vice grips, but I’m worried about damaging the shaft. I hit it with wd40, but that screw doesn’t want to budge. Any advice for getting that washer off? Thanks!
By far the worst part of my first experience replacing one of these, was the fact the pipe in the wall wasn’t strapped down and I could tell I was beginning to twist the pipe rather than unscrew the fitting. Of course the wall it was inside of had a kitchen cabinet on one side and the master bath crapper blocked access on the other… Friggin awesome! Obviously pulling the toilet was the way to go. One it was out I luckily guesstimated the length of the unit and cut the access in the wall right at the joint. The second tough part was finding a 10″ unit that was made in the goid ole USA… Obviously the big box stores were no help! After poking around locally, I finally got online and researched who, if anyone made them here and luckily Arrowhead still did (at the time anyhow but not so sure anymore) so I ordered one up. Having to wait for it meant my overly optimistic self, who decided to yard the old part out, figuring a quality new one would be easy to come by locally had to cap off the line. The rest was pretty straightforward, though I did learn of a great product and a slightly different way of sealing the threaded connection. A friend, who is a really real plumber was over when I… or actually more like he installed it. He gave it a good wrapping of teflon and then whipped out a container of Rectum… er Rector Seal #5 and added a good coating of that. Since then (15yrs ago) I’ve used that same two product method every time and have yet to have a single issue with leakage.
my frost proof was dripping so I found your website…i turned off water to stop drip and I removed outside nut but the rod doesnt pull out …i didn’t want to yank on it just in case something else holds it in but one thing i noticed about the faucet handle is it only turns a quarter turn to go on or off…not the usual 3 or 4 turns to draw the valve into the seat….i know this is the design of the faucet but is there a snap ring or other retaining device used to stop the long valve from pulling out of the pipe tube…the model is not fully spelled out but there is a big “M” on it with a triangle on top of it and “S” and “O” on it with a 42 and F14 on it…made in Taiwan…pretty sure my guy got it at Home depot or Lowes…thanks and I am now subscribed…..PS, one thing i did find out was the retaining nut was loosened by had but the sillcock was dripping out of the faucet and not the handle…maybe I fixed it by tightening it but the removal of the long valve still interests me…thks
Thanks so much!!! This article helped me understand the parts and how to repair. Now I can go outside and find out what brand of frost proof vacuum breaker that I have & order same. My only confusion is about shutting off or not shutting off the water, for this repair, in the cellar. Guess I will shut the water off to be safe. Thanks again!
I have some neat old vintage plumbing tools including valve seat grinding kits that go back to the days of fixing stuff rather than just throwing it away & replacing it. Usually the piece with the seat surface is a soft brass alloy or possibly just cheap zinc die cast, which was junk when it was new. Brass resurfaces easily, and with my kit the seat surface is usually better than new. One grinder has teeth and the finish grind is a fine grit stone.
I have a frost-free leaking around the stem. I tried to tighten the stem nut but it was already as tight as it could be. I tried to then take the rod out but when I loosened the stem nut all the way I couldn’t pull the rod with the washer on the end out. I didn’t want to force it too much but it would only move about a half inch. What do I do now?
a thousand thank yous Roger! The first five minutes of this article just save me a trip to the hardware store the cost of a new frost free faucet and draining the water in the house to change it. I didn’t need a repair kit I just needed to put the parts inside the vacuum relief cap back in correctly after they froze.
I’ve got to replace a freeze proof outdoor faucet, what is the best brand/model to get for replacement, 10-12″ freeze proof. Don’t mind spending a few extra bucks to put in a good one. Want one i can replace parts on if needed. This one didn’t last 3 years on new home. This one drips from faucet, i’ve already replaced washers and guts. TIA
The soldered vs. threaded is a a big issue fore me. The valve is barely holding in place. I think that I have to change the entire faucet (house built in the 70s). They routed the pipes in cement blocks. I have no indoor access beside breaking the wall! I am thinking of inserting one of these tiny cameras? Would that tell me anything?
Thank you for the detailed article along with the wonderful attitude that you’ve displayed. You’re a real professional who’s willing to teach/show individuals who WANT TO LEARN. I do want to apologize if during one of your live talk/feedback shows if I ruined your surprise for the homeowner who had concrete thrown down her drain by the previous plumber. When you had mentioned about putting in an electric outlet near her new toilet, I had instantly threw out a guess that you were going to install a really B.A. bidet that needed an outlet to function. I don’t even know if you did a follow up article. So, if I offended you or ruined the surprise, I do apologize.
Thank You Roger for your great advice!! I live in S. California.. I just change out hose bibs because 1. I can not separate the hose bib to get to washer 2. If I do separate the hose bib I stripe out the screw holding the washer. The new hose bibs are harder to repair verse a 30 or 40 year old hose bib because of quality in my opinion..Keep up the good work Roger & I look forward to your next teaching article!!
I moved to a house and for the first time had a frost free faucet that was leaking from the top. It was the Oring that was broken. I got a thicker one than that came with it since it just didnt have enough meat on it to last. I happened to have a spare o-ring in my stuff that was thicker, so it sealed better. I will admit I miss my old house where I could see all this in the basement and not worry about hidden leaks and drips in the wall
Please enlighten me because I’m confused about Texans building their houses on slabs. You’re saying things like “chipping out enough mortar” to see what kind of connection the faucet has to the house’s water supply. Here, (Idaho) it’s as easy as going into the crawlspace and looking at what kind of connection it has. Why do Texans build their houses on slabs if it makes the most basic plumbing repairs become total concrete-embedded nightmares to perform? Is it something to do with soil water or something? Is this just something in houses more than 10 years old?
great article…also easy to just replace ALL the gaskets (pulling entire stem out)…why not…ONE THING I found out was white does not always mean right hand thread…I was only able to determine this because I paid attention to the WHITE cap I removed which was FLAT on the inside edge..NOT inward rounded/Concaved like in the article…I only mention it as there is info that says WHITE is always right hand…I used the TAN version and corresponding gasket/all fixed…so just pay attention to what you removed and match to the kit. Thanks for the article! Stopped my leaking faucets! ALSO…my handle bolts were rusted on…so I had to dremmel off the handles and removed the entire stem…some PB blaster and heat (gently hold the stem with a vice or pliers while working the rusty bolt out…finally was able to work the bolt out. Chase the threads with the new stainless bolt that comes with the new handle kit…even maybe a dab of anti seize.
Thank you VERY-MUCH for making this SUPER-SIMPLE, yet VERY-EFFECTIVE article, for all of us that may be lacking some of the necessary skills required before being considered a “Master DIY Handyman”!!! When it comes down to fixing things such as Electrical, and Plumbing, I can get flustered VERY-EASILY, but because of your cool, and calm demeanor, and more importantly, YOU ARE NOT TALKING A THOUSAND MILES AN HOUR LIKE SO MANY OTHER YOUTUBERS DO, THAT MAKES UNDERSTANDING THE article DIFFICULT, AND IT TENDS TO ADD EVEN MORE UNNECESSARY STRESS TO THE SITUATION AT HAND, but since you a smooth and slow, it is so calming and it gives me the overall since of reassurance that I CAN AND WILL COMPLETE THIS REPAIR WITH EASE AND COMPLETELY SOLVE THE PROBLEM THAT I AM HAVING WITH MY FAUCET HANDLE LEAKING!!!! THANK YOU VERY MUCH, I WILL DEFINITELY BE HITTING THE “SUBSCRIBE” BUTTON AFTER SEEING THIS article!!! GOOD JOB!!! 👍🏻👍🏻/5★’S!!
THANK YOU! I think you just saved me a lot of money! I replaced the anti-siphon but that didn’t stop the water. Now that I’m elder and have Parkinson’s, I’m unable to do things. I was going to hire a plumber to replace the whole faucet, stem, spout, etc. Now I can try the other things first and may not have to replace the entire spigot.
Thanks for your articles, this looks very similar to the one I have. I also seem to have the white plastic right hand turn adapter. Mine looks different however in that it has a large nut behind the white plastic piece and my valve stem sticks out much more than yours. Not sure if that is standard for this model faucet. I have an ASSE1018-A faucet according to the number on the side. I will attempt to inspect this more thoroughly and report back. Thanks for the part numbers you’ve provided. I am not sure if a picture of mine can be posted to show you my setup.
Great article on both items but mine drips from the threaded faucet where the hose attaches. Does that mean I need to replace the entire Sillcock or is there a way to pull that shut off valve out that the handle goes on and replace the parts behind that? Maybe you could do a article on that if I’m on the right track here? Thanks.
Sure wish I had a Prier like yours, that has replacement parts available! I have a Pure Pro Frost Free Sill Cock and the company that sells it (Webb) told me “I do apologize, but we do not offer spare parts for these items.” So, I’m going to just replace the whole thing, since my jerry rigged gasket didn’t work 🙁
Great article! I tried this (replacing the internals) first and still had leaks behind the handle. I then replaced the entire internal stem and that still wouldn’t fix it. The faucet problem started in late Summer with an inability to shut off the water completely via the handle- so I figured it was just worn seals. Any thoughts?
Ugh, I had the kit already and have a similar faucet and when I found your article I thought “great! – this looks very diy!”. Well of course when I put in the right hand gasket and tried to screw the right hand white nut back in it won’t catch a tread. Seems like the gasket is too thick:( Now I am on a article search to find out how to get the gasket unstuck.
Thanks, Everyday Home Repairs for this article. I had NO CLUE how to fix this problem and your article helped a lot. I will say, however, the mechanics of my faucet were a bit different. I had a tan 7/8 inch screw and I HAD to turn the water off because I needed to semi-remove the stem to remove the washer. It didn’t come out easily like it did in your article. But pulling the stem was pretty easy (just keep turning the faucet as if turning the water on until the stem comes loose). Then I replaced the washer (different washer than what you used in your article), put everything back together, and NO MORE LEAK! Thanks again!
I’m a fairly new home owner and I was having an issue with my hose faucet not fully stopping the water. I had turned off the water to the faucet and was getting ready to call someone until I thought I’d see if a tutorial would help. I found this article, and 3.5 minutes in, I pause and try what I just saw. A super loose piece that I tightened and BOOM, problem solved. Thanks for the quick and easy article!
Thank you do much. My house has three spigots and all three leak. I saw articles were people were cutting into their houses and removing long pipes and I thought I would need a plumber, but this, I can do myself. I have to do both the anti-siphon and the handle repair and you covered both beautifully. Thank you!
In general is that a one size fits all kit for that type of spigot? That’s exactly what we have on our house and is leaking from the handle. Odd thing is, when I took the handle off, there’s only that metal rectangle piece the screw goes into. There’s no white threaded plastic piece that goes around that like what you replaced.
Thank you SO MUCH for your article! Our old and rusty, outside spigot is leaking, but only from the part that turns the water on. Is it best to replace the whole spigot or can I just do the part that’s leaking? Because it is old and rusting, I’m thinking it would be best to replace it all. But not sure. Thank you in advance.
Thank you so much. I’ve got two of these leaky faucets on the house and have been wondering how to fix them AND they are both 27 yrs old now. I knew there must be a gasket or seal involved but thought I might have to remove the entire faucet through the wall. Glad I found your article, it’s much easier than I thought. You make a very clear and detailed article. Very helpful.
Wow! Thank you for making this look easy and doable! I just have to figure out which type of replacement kit to get – I noticed that the Wall Hydrant Repair kit was for specific series wall hydrants (not a “universal” one) so I have to try to figure out which series type I have. Any suggestions? (The hydrant is the original, from 1995, before I bought the house so I’m not sure which series it is!) Thanks.
Thank you for this article (and the anti syphon valve article). I was a little afraid at first to tackle this as the leaky faucet is in the garage and my old man was like, “call a damn plumber”. I went to Ace Hardware and got the exact same 2 kits you used in this article for $14.99 and also replaced the old crusty, rusty screw and handle for $8.99. So much cheaper than spending probably a couple hundred dollars for a plumber and I learned something today. It did not go without frustration and ended up doing the left (cream colored twist tightener) as the right (white one) didn’t quite work like yours did because of the threads but end result…no more leaks. Thanks again!
Those Mansfield/Prier spigots are horrible. I fix mine constantly with these kits and it never lasts over a year, sometimes just a few months. I’m stumped as to why. The plastic handles always break, no matter how careful I turn them and I always get leaks. I’ve replaced the entire stem before and all gaskets/parts, same thing. Frustrating. I think I need to take the time to replace the entire spigot with another product but that is more of a job.
Hi Scott, did this and your other article for the vacuum thingy. Used the same repair kits, mine is a Mansfield from 1998 but I guess Prier bought them out a couple decades ago. Anywho, my handle is still dripping water but only when closed. Granted, it’s much better than before but any idea why it would continue doing this? I cannot hear water running from my main line anymore, but it would be great if it could stop altogether. TIA!
This is a great article. I was inspired to do my own repair after a plumber wanted $950 to replace the whole spigot. I found the replacement parts and got to work, but when I tried to remove the white plastic (right hand) nut, it would not budge. In trying to force it half of the outer ring broke off. Any advice on how to remove it?
I have same frost proof faucet outside, it leaks when trying to turn the water off…can’t tighten it enough to stop the flow and turn water off…I used a 3/8″ socket to loosen the screw, and I was able to then turn the handle enough to shut off the flow of water…why did this work, and what should I do to fix this???! Thanks
Hello Scott. Not sure if you will respond to this. 1st off thank you for these two vids. 2nd. I have this exact spigot, was curious if you have any information about taking it apart even further. Similar to one of your other spigot vids that you pulled out the 12″ anti frost line and replaced the small rubber washer at the end. The design of that spigot was different than the one in this article. I was curious if you have a disassembled version of this spigot? Thank you very much.
White is NOT always right hand thread. My plastic nut is white and I tried to open it counterclockwise and I tightened it instead AND I over tightened it soo bad now the white plastic nut edges is rounded. I am ordering bolt extractor for rounded bolt, and I hope I will be able to open it. For now, it doesn’t leak BUT after I put the handle back on, I can’t turn it at all. Is this normal that overnighted nut means the handle can’t be turned? It’s now on open position so I temporarily use hose’ shut off valve to turn it off. And what’s so stupid is on that white nut there is a print out: remove – right arrow, tighten – left arrow. I read it too late.
So I have a spigot on my carport right outside my kitchen under the sink/window. Few weeks ago I was washing my truck and came in about 20 min later to find my kitchen floor was flooded. I thought I’d have to replace the whole spigot but that requires tearing apart part of the wall. Should this fix the issue instead?
High as balls. Dude please. Help. I put my rusty screwdriver into the part. It turned. The water turned on. Then I held it and tried to turn it. The thing is like 1 part I think. As I’m turning its stripping side to side. I stopped. When ya cant fix a leaky water faucet and ur 22. Feels bad. Still high. So itz not that bad. Dude weed is awesome i dont even feel depressed anymore . This is lit
I have an approximately 40 yr old house and a leak behind the handle of the faucet. There is no way to get into the faucet so I’m hoping the taking the handle off and checking the O ring and any gasket if it has one. There is no anti siphon on this faucet. Will I need to shut off the water to the whole house?