This video teaches how to repair and dry a 12V battery at home. If your electric bike’s battery is no longer working due to any reason, there are various steps you can take to repair the cell unit and rebuild it. The process of refurbishing includes installing new battery cells and repairing.
E-bike batteries can fail in two main ways: they may fail to charge or provide power to the motor due to faulty components. To repair a dead battery at home, follow the user’s manual and know how to repair an electric bike battery in your time of need.
A step-by-step guide to repair electric bike batteries includes checking connections, inspecting the charger, testing different outlets, and verifying power. After removing the battery from the bike, place it in a dry location and charge it. Battery chargers for bicycle batteries usually have a built-in power supply.
However, it is strongly discouraged from trying any home repairs on an electric bike battery. The experts at Doctibike provide a step-by-step guide to repair and recondition your battery in complete safety.
📹 How To Repair Bike Battery At Home – 100% Working?
How To Repair Bike Battery At Home – 100% Working? Intagram id https://www.instagram.com/samarexperiment/ …
Can you fix a damaged battery?
The best option for repairing a damaged battery is to determine if it can be repaired or replaced. While some batteries can be repaired, others may not, especially those with damaged exteriors or terminals. If the battery is not holding a charge, charging it for longer may not be effective due to low acid levels or other issues. To add more acid to the battery, unless spilled, distilled water can be used to top off the acid compartment.
However, caution is advised due to the toxic nature of battery acid. This method can be used multiple times to extend the battery’s lifespan, but it is important to be cautious due to the highly toxic nature of battery acid.
Can a completely dead battery be revived?
The premature deterioration of a battery, or “battery death,” can result from a number of factors, including inadequate maintenance, excessive deep cycles, overcharging, and excessive deep discharging. In some cases, this deterioration may be irreparable.
How do you start a dead bike battery?
In order to start the engine of a motorcycle, it is necessary to ensure that the vehicle is moving at a speed of between 6 and 10 kilometers per hour. Once this speed has been reached, the motorcycle should be turned on and placed in gear.
Is it possible to rebuild ebike battery?
The rebuild process involves opening the battery case and replacing all cells inside the 18650 battery, which is slightly larger than a typical AA battery. The battery can be re-used to ensure it fits back in your bike. The capacity of the battery pack can be upgraded to provide longer range between charges. The new 18650 lithium ion cells are packed with more energy than older technology cells, making them fully compatible with your bike.
If your original battery was lead acid or nickel-based, we can convert those chemistries over to lithium ion, providing greater energy density and allowing for smaller and lighter batteries for the same distance or significant range increase.
How do you revive a dead battery that won’t charge?
In order to restore a depleted electrolyte level within a vehicle battery, it is recommended to utilise a solution of Epsom salts, specifically magnesium sulfate, in accordance with the methodology outlined in the article pertaining to the assessment of battery electrolyte levels.
How to fix a motorcycle battery that won’t charge?
A dead battery can be replaced with a wet battery, which can be refilled and checked, or a dry battery, which requires replacement. Your bike insurance may cover the replacement, so check your policy and inclusions. A damaged rectifier regulator can also cause a battery not charging. This component converts AC to DC current, which is sent to the battery, preventing charging. If the rectifier regulator stops functioning, there is no current conversion and the battery is not charged. Some signs to look out for if the rectifier regulator is damaged include:
- The battery is not charging or the current is not being sent to the other electrical parts.
How do I revive my electric bike battery?
Charge the battery fully, assume the charger is functioning, keep the cells balanced, and discharge the battery.
Check the sound of the charger. If the charger is functioning, the light will turn read and the charger itself will make a sound. If the charger is not functioning, it may be faulty.
Check the charger’s circuitry. If the charger is not functioning, it may not be able to charge the battery properly.
Check the battery’s charge level. If the battery is not fully charged, it may be faulty.
By following these steps, you can revive your ebike battery and enjoy the adventure that awaits you in the summer of 2023.
Can you repair a bike battery?
Most electric bike batteries can be repaired using various methods, including battery repair techniques and sometimes battery cell replacement. Understanding the components of an electric bike battery is crucial for effective maintenance. These components include cells, a Battery Management System (BMS), wiring, and connectors. Common problems that can require an electric bike battery fix include battery degradation, connectivity issues, and electrical faults that affect the bike’s performance.
How to revive a dead bike battery?
This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to revive a completely dead motorcycle battery. It starts with a safety first step: inspect the battery, clean the terminals, check electrolyte levels, charge the battery, trickle charge, monitor the charging process, test the voltage, load test, and reinstall and test. It emphasizes the importance of safety first, as working with batteries can be hazardous due to potential acid spills, explosions, or electrical shocks.
To minimize the risk of fire, respiratory irritation, overheating, and discomfort, it is recommended to work in a well-ventilated area, disperse hydrogen gas, dissipate heat generated during charging, and remove unpleasant odors. Wearing gloves and eye protection is also advised to prevent contact with battery acid. This guide is a valuable resource for those interested in reviving a dead motorcycle battery.
Can you fix a completely dead battery?
A dead battery cannot be revived or fixed, but it can be fixed for a short period. Some methods include using a trickle charger, which takes up to 48 hours to fully charge due to its 1-2 amps output. This slow charging method protects the battery from overcharging or overheating, but it may take longer than other methods. It is essential to replace the battery when it is completely dead or weak.
Can I recharge a dead motorcycle battery?
A dead motorcycle battery can be recharged if it is not expired and can be recharged multiple times. However, if the battery has gone past its expected lifespan, it will discharge shortly after being charged. It is recommended to charge the motorcycle battery at least once a month, even if the motorcycle is parked in the garage for a long time. A working battery is essential for good motorcycle performance, and a completely dead battery is not able to start the motorbike.
It is normal for a battery to get completely discharged, especially if the motorcycle is not used for a long period. To check if the battery still has life left, perform the tests covered in this article.
📹 Fixing a dead ebike battery
While during a ride, my ebike shut off even though i had just charged the bike. Turns out i had a dead 18650 dragging down the …
This is the best, most complete article I’ve yet seen on diagnosing and fixing electric bike batteries. I am still uneasy about trying this myself. I will check out any other bideos you have made. If you know of other resources that would help a beginner and would be willing to share them it would be very much appreciated. The information I have come across so far is quite fragmented and
I suggest that the suspect cell may not be bad. Instead it had a high resistance to the metal strip which allowed the other cells to discharge faster than the rest of the battery pack groups. The accumulative use of the bike allowed this cell group to discharge faster until the BMS flagged that cell group and the battery pack as dead. This is why the suspect battery cell charged back up quickly, the only serious discharge was thru the bad negative connection high resistance so it’s voltage eventually discharged down to the other cell group voltage via a very low discharge current. The suspect cell did not provide power to the bike in operation therefore it’s charge state was higher than the other 4-cells. Just my consideration for this fail. Thanks for the article I now know how to find a cell spot welder.
I suggest that you solder the balance leads to the nickel strip mid way between two cells, as it significantly reduces the amount of heat being applied to the ends of the cells. If the faulty cell was not punctured during the spot weld process, then the excessive heat applied directly to the end of the cell with the soldering iron during the initial battery build is probably the reason why that cell has failed.
Around 12:51 where you checked the voltage of the low cell pack, they would be bound to be the same voltage because they had all been connected together in parallel. If one was self discharging, it would drag charge from the others so they would stay the same voltage. Good article. Interesting to see you solve the issue and refurbish it. So much better than sending it for recycling which many people would do.
Hey, looks like if you are the kind of guy who can reset a circuit breaker in your home electrical panel, then you are good to go with the depth of knowledge needed here! Just kidding, of course. Thanks Stevenc22. Great little introduction to the mysteries of the ebike battery. Now, all I have to do is wait impatiently for mine to fail!
I bought a boost converter to help recover “dead” batteries. I find you need to bring all the cells to at least 3v for normal charging to kick back in but it takes relatively little charge (i.e. current) to lift cells that initial way up the charge curve so you don’t need a powerful higher voltage bench supply. In fact it does no good to force normal charge current into an over-depleted cell and I typically set a current limit of 50-100ma per cell until the voltage is up past the minimum quoted by the cell specs which may be 2.5v.
I know article is old but My guess is after looking at connection and the battery is at full volt, here is my thought there was a bad connection (nothing worng with battery cell) it just was not giving a connection to the battery that were connected and not being used throwing the whole battery bank out wack.Just a thought.
Just a FYI the old rule of thumb is mark and change 1 cell on either side of a failed cell. A s they were amperage stressed during the cell failure. Your load testing was spot on think of it as a glass of water you can’t drain or fill. Your checking capacity it should drain slow and fill slow. I If voltage goes down quick or tops off quickly it’s bad…… no capacity
Do you have a article on the DIY spot welder that you referenced using? Im looking into building my own. Also, what are the chances that someone other than you got in the pack (as it seems to be easily accessible with no tamper tape on it) and tried to ‘fix’ it but made it worse. I only say this because that does look nastier than you’d normally send out the door? Anyway, thanks for the articles!
Hey Stevenc22, nice article. I was going to do the same. Investigating my battery I found 1 pack being low and strangely a small burnt hole on the lead strip that connect one of the cell. I contacted a company which does repair battery and they told me that I couldn’t just put a new cell because of unbalancing. Could you confirm that I can still do it and that the unbalancing might be a little overreact on their side or should I not do it ? Also I’m looking for a place to buy legit cells : samsung 50e 21700. Do you have a preference for where to buy them (I’m in Canada so it might not be similar but still) Thanks, a lot, hoping you’ll answer on a 2 years old article x)
We had a new bike with battery problem. It gave us half of the expected range and knocked the motor out. The company (Fiido) refused to take it back, sent us a motor and after a controller. Booth of them was out. After 20 km they are finished again. Actually the throttle turns the motor without weight on. With weight shuts out. The battery did some funny thing, as shut off, once it is connected and won’t turn back on. Or you couldn’t turn it off. 1 000 Eu for fun, supporting poor Singapore. We got middle finger and had to pay 70 Eu for spiking the motor. Never reimbursed. …. We had a Fiido D1 earlier. Great! D11 – stay away! * Had to buy a Chinese. 800, super comfort, double range (same Ah) and flies 2X faster. 2600 km, no issues.
I recently purchased an ebike for my wife. We noticed the battery drains down to about 50% ftom full in about 7 to 8 days if left connected to the bike. This according to the handlebar display. (5 of the 10 Bars) It does the same to the auxiliary battery. When either battery is removed from the bike this doesn’t accur. The batteries take over 10 day rest before they even lose a bar. #1 Is this normal? #2 Does something always stay on when the bike is shut off on the display and the battery is left connected? #3. Or maybe there’s a parasitic draw ? Sorry about all the questions. The bike was new.
May I suggest wearing gloves while handling the battery? I have done some pretty stupid stuff working on batteries and learned from experience. Also, cover portions of the battery with an insulating material like surgeons do. Lastly, better to replace all cells in the parallel group as the bad one degrades its parallel members.
We purchased this Vivi 27.5″ electric bike and a Tentaquil 26″ electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. youtube.com/post/UgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a article link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly article, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!
Thank you. This happened to me and I didn’t know what was the problem! I was sent a new battery but, the new battery for some reason was made slightly bigger and could not fit down the down tube. If I can have someone repair the orignal battery and make the new battery fit, that would be idea. Thanks agian.
Im having a mess of stress with mine. ….Mines a 2018 Ebike. basic. Original battery died, bought New battery but the leads have the Main lead & a direct charging lead Only …….Old battery has Main lead & a yellowish lead,for charging. So while its the correct battery spec wise, theres no way to hookup the yellowish wire ……. New battery wont even bootup the bike,Zero. fully charged yet Nothing …. I know the problem aint the bike cuz I can put the old battery back in which barely has any life & atleast the bike will bootup like normal. ..New battery with the main hooked up, I get Nothing whatsoever,wont even bootup. SO…….if the yellowish wire is strickly for the charging port, why wont it bootup with a brand new battery. . so so very frusterating. been scouring the net for like 4 days trying to find a fix.
My problem is the charging port, but there are no article’s on how to do it safely. There are article that show someone doing it but not how to do it without getting electrocuted when connecting the wires. It seems like they are doing it on completely dead battery’s or else there’s something they aren’t showing, because I get sparks everytime I connect the wires. I’ve already destroyed 4 ports.
I`m afraid of something like this happening to my emergency solar power stations, especially the expensive ones I have to power my freezers and fridge after severe storms like hurricanes, tornadoes, straight line winds, ice, and bad thunderstorms. We also have unseen damage to our power grid (weakened transformers/lines) caused by ice storms and hurricanes that can cause random power outages that last long enough to damage frozen foods by partially thawing them. I have a small backup gas generator but who can afford to run one for more than a few hours? I got it to charge my solar batteries on cloudy days. After hurricanes gas is often impossible to find anyway and I certainly can`t afford five or six gallons of gas per day for up to two weeks. Solar power stations are expensive too but offer a lot of peace of mind in today`s ridiculous world…especially in my situation. When I had a lump sum of extra money buying multiple sources of solar power was a huge no-brainer.