The three main steps to proper solar system design are: calculate daily energy use by determining watt-hour use per month/year, get a system size estimate, and figure out how many solar panels you need. Shop for the right solar system based on the efficiency and output of the panels you choose to effectively design your perfect system.
DIY solar panel kits let motivated homeowners install their own solar systems while saving a significant amount of money on installation charges. To make a DIY solar system, first, determine your energy needs and goals. Next, make a DIY solar plan, choose the right solar system type, determine your energy needs, secure the right permits, and design the solar system.
Next, purchase the materials, install the solar system, and enjoy your solar power. DIY solar panels come in the form of a solar kit that includes the basic materials needed for small-scale applications. A full guide from planning to installation is available to help you learn everything you need to know about DIY solar panels, including planning, system design, set up, and more.
Building a small off-grid solar system can be quite straightforward with simple calculations and basic electrical know-how. OpenSolar is a free software that most homeowners use to design solar panels on their roof. This post provides the basics for designing and creating your own solar system and hopefully enough understanding of what an off-grid system is.
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How can I make a solar system model at home?
Create a solar system model by painting a large cardboard box black, gathering 5 polystyrene balls to represent gas giants like the sun, Jupiter, and Neptune, painting the largest ball yellow, and shaping 5 rocky planets out of colored modeling clay. Paint white dots on the black cardboard to represent stars, and use thread and hot glue to suspend the planets in the box. Remember to put everything in the correct order for accurate paint and clay colors.
Is it legal to install your own solar panels in the UK?
DIY solar panel installation in the UK is legal, with most regions having no laws against it. However, local authorities may need planning permission in certain areas. For rental properties, landlord clearance is crucial, and building regulations may apply. The main concern is the potential loss of profit from DIY solar panel installation. Benefits from manufacturers and installers can encourage hiring professionals, but it’s important to note that exporting solar energy isn’t allowed. In summary, the decision to install solar panels depends on personal preference and the potential benefits from professional installation.
How do I size my solar system for my house?
In order to ascertain the dimensions of a solar system, it is necessary to divide the daily kWh energy requirement by the number of peak sun hours in order to calculate the kW output. Subsequently, the requisite number of solar panels can be estimated by dividing the kW output by the efficiency of the panels in question. For illustrative purposes, if one were to reside in New Mexico, where there are six peak sunlight hours per day, a solar system with a DC output of 6. 2 kW would be required.
How many kW solar system do I need?
In order to ascertain the requisite solar capacity, it is necessary to divide the annual kWh by 1, 200 in order to determine the kilowatts that are required. If the energy consumption indicated on the previous 12 utility bills is 24, 000 kWh, a 20 kW system is required. To ascertain the efficacy of your solar panels, it is recommended that you consult a resource or await further information regarding the production of electricity that is less than the rated capacity of the panels.
How do you calculate or design a solar system?
Understanding Basic Solar PV Sizing Requirements. We’ll use California as an example model. However, the basic steps below are the same regardless of location and geography. Let’s start with a hypothetical monthly energy consumption of 500 kilowatt-hours (kWh). This is on the low side for California. But it keeps the numbers simple. Assuming there are 30 days in a month, you can determine a potential solar customer’s average daily energy consumption by dividing their monthly consumption by 30. The formula for this calculation is: Daily Energy Use = Monthly Energy Use / Days in Month 16. 7 kWh/day = 500 kWh/mo / 30days/mo Next, we need insolation values. As mentioned in The Beginner’s Guide to Solar Energy, insolation values are reported in kWh/m 2 /day. Since a “full-sun’s” worth of incoming solar energy is approximately 1 kW/m 2, insolation values provide a rough estimate of how many full-sun hour equivalents a location receives over the course of a day. Figure 1. Visualization of how total solar insolation received over the course of a day (left) can be represented by the number of full-sun hours (right). Source: pveducation. org For a Palo Alto home, the average daily irradiance value is 5. 2 kWh/m 2 /day. By multiplying the daily energy usage by full-sun hours in a day, you can calculate the total PV system output as: Power Output = Daily Energy Use * Daily Hours of Full Sun 3. 21 kW = 16. 7 kWh/day * 5. 2 hours/day Figure 2. The Palo Alto home used for this PV system sizing exercise. Note, however, that 3. 21 kW represents the ideal sizing assuming 100% efficiency under optimal laboratory conditions. However, that is not the case because all PV systems have a corresponding derate factor that takes into account the inefficiencies of the overall system in the field, such as soiling of the panels and imperfect electrical connections. According to the National Renewable Energy Laboratory’s PVWatts calculator, a typical derate factor is 0. 84. For the sake of this calculation, we’ll assume the derate factor is roughly 80% (or 0. 8). And thus, to correctly determine the ideal PV system size for field applications, you must divide the required power output by the derate factor. PV System Size = Power Output / Derate Factor 4. 01 kW = 3. 21 kW / 0. 8 From this analysis, a homeowner looking to completely offset an average monthly energy usage of 500 kWh/mo would need a 4. 01 kW PV system.
Comparing PV size estimates to simulated results. Since this is a rough estimate, how does it compare against an actual, comprehensive design for a home with the same characteristics? Using the variables above, Aurora Solar’s PV system design software found that the required system size is roughly 4 kW, meaning laboratory conditions closely match the ideal field conditions once the installation is complete. However, there is one final piece of the equation: shading. Whether from nearby trees or neighboring buildings, shading can sometimes block portions of a solar PV system. Moreover, this shading can often vary throughout the year as the sun’s trajectory changes with the seasons — or as trees gain and lose their leaves. Although shading is partially accounted for in the derate factor, this value can fail to accurately capture the effect that shading has on a PV system’s total power output. Fortunately, Aurora’s Solar’s PV design software can account for this shading variability throughout the year. And this improved accuracy allows you to install sufficient solar PV capacity to cover each customer’s annual energy needs for optimal savings and carbon reductions. Therefore, expect the results to be less close when modeling a location with shading.
About Solar PV Education 101. This blog is part of Solar PV Education 101, a six-article series that serves as an introductory primer on the fundamentals of solar. We’re updating each piece in late 2022, so be sure to check back often for the most recent information. Part 1: The Beginner’s Guide to Solar Energy (Updated 11/9/2022)Part 2: How a Photovoltaic System Produces Electricity (Updated 11/10/2022)Part 3: Reading Your Electricity Bill: A Beginner’s Guide (Updated 11/15/2022)Part 4: How to Size a PV System from an Electricity Bill (Updated 12/9/2022)Part 5: Shade Losses for PV Systems, and Techniques to Mitigate Them (Updated 12/12/2022)Part 6: The Basic Principles that Guide PV System Costs (Updated 12/13/2022)And be sure to download the PDF version to give to reps, installers, and even customers looking to learn more about the basics of solar.
Is it cheaper to buy or make solar panels?
The average cost of solar panel installation by a professional company is around $2. 95 per watt, which is equivalent to $14, 750 for a typical 5 kW system. However, a 5 kW DIY solar panel kit costs between $1. 00 and $1. 50 per watt, resulting in a potential savings of $7, 250 – $9, 759 if performed by oneself. Factors such as system size and solar tax credit eligibility can also affect these figures. Therefore, it’s crucial to weigh the pros and cons before making a decision.
Can I build my own solar system?
Can you install your own solar panels? Yes, if you can drive lag bolts and assemble prefabricated parts, and are willing to spend a day or two on your roof. You don’t need to know how to hook up the solar panels to your household electricity or the utility grid. You’ll hire an electrician for the house hookup, and the utility company will take care of the rest, usually for free. For a completely off-grid system, the utility company isn’t involved at all.
However, this job isn’t a good excuse to buy new power tools, as the only one needed is a good drill. Most people use professional installers for solar installations, as they handle more than just installation. They design the system, apply for rebates and credits, order all the necessary parts, obtain permits, and pass all inspections. However, you can do all these things yourself, provided you have a helpful adviser and follow the rules of the local building authority.
Are DIY solar kits worth it?
DIY solar panels can save about 10% of your total bill, but it comes with risks of improper installation, lack of access to high-quality equipment, and additional time. For home solar panel systems, it’s essential to work with a professional, as they have decades-long experience and can handle electrical, roofing, and other skilled work. DIY installation can also increase the risk of system errors and potentially damage your home.
How do you calculate how many solar panels you need?
To determine the number of solar panels needed for your home, divide your annual electricity usage by the wattage of your desired solar panels and your local production ratio. The average household needs between 15 and 20 solar panels to offset their energy needs, but individual needs may vary based on energy usage, roof size, roof orientation, and location. To calculate the right number of solar panels, consider your annual electricity usage, solar panel wattage, and the production ratio.
To get started, grab a copy of your recent electricity bill and use this information to calculate your solar power needs. The formula for calculating solar panels is based on your annual electricity usage, solar panel wattage, and local production ratio.
How much space does a 10kW solar system need?
A solar system with a power output of 10 kW typically requires an area of between 440 and 475 square feet of roof space, with the exact figure depending on the wattage of the panels in question. The quantity of required panels is directly proportional to the amount of space necessary. In order to maximize energy production, it is optimal to utilize 475 square feet of south-facing roof space. One may also purchase a do-it-yourself solar kit for the installation of a 10 kW solar panel array.
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Here are all the items covered in this article: * Inverter (2000W): cityprepping.tv/3QPc6KL * Charge controller (40 Amp MPPT): cityprepping.tv/3PQMNGD * Battery (100Ah LiFePO4 w/Bluetooth): cityprepping.tv/3pJCdGK * Solar panel (100W): cityprepping.tv/3wTi3OT * Battery / inverter cable: cityprepping.tv/3wrbsLd * Battery / charge controller cable: cityprepping.tv/3cnjZIi * Solar extension cable: cityprepping.tv/3Tjtf0I * 200amp fuse: amzn.to/3AKVNJf Or, if you’d prefer to pick up a kit with all of these pieces combined (to save money), you can check out these options: * cityprepping.tv/3TlAMMj
I am a new subscriber BECAUSE of this article. Every book I have picked up, every article I have watched, has done their very best to scare the try out of me. Why do they make everything SO complicated? THANK YOU for posting this as I am a single old woman, in the process of moving off grid and I really needed this information.
Great article!! Great to see something more directly related to prepping. I built my own system a couple of years ago and learned (the hard way) to test the heck out of my setup – don’t make assumptions about what it can or can’t do. I could run most of my power tools, but a table-top saw would kick out the safety fuse on the inverter. Finally added a second Battery and upgraded to a 3500 Watt inverter, then added a 3rd battery on top of that (so now running 3 Optima D34M deep cycle batteries). It was worth the effort and expense – have used it through 2 power outages and it worked great.
Within the first minute and 30 seconds you managed to explain, very simply too, the main items and what they do. I have watched MANY other vidoes on solar setups and this article is by far the best one i’ve come across in terms of a beginner just trying to understand the basics without getting confused. Just wanted to express my gratitude 👍
Thank you Chris, I built my solar generator about two years ago. I used a SOK lithium ion battery and it’s been working fantastic, I want to upgrade it with a couple more batteries for a longer state of usable energy when I’m not using my solar panels. But actually I just wanted to say I went with the same charge controller ( 30A ) and it works flawlessly, I am also using 4-100 W solar panels, when I finally got everything built I began testing it out. I first started with the refrigerator, which is all I Really wanted to be able to run Off of it In the first place,But I then began adding my TV entertainment system, my computer system and it ran literally everything all at the same time utilizing my solar panels. I did go with a 3000 W pure sine wave inverter, probably overkill, but I wanted to make sure my system was capable of withstanding the loads. You have done your community a great service Chris, people really need to understand and know how to build their selves a very straightforward system that could possibly save their lives and at the very least bring them great comfort and peace of mind. Once you understand (( by doing it yourself )) you are well ahead of making your system an extremely viable component of your prepping Resources. I also added in a 12 V fused attachment point to be able to run 12 V DC components which use less stored electricity Because you’re not running the inverter component. Anyway Chris, once again you have served your community and subscribers a tremendous pathway to self-reliance,, may you and your family stay safe and remain blessed.
This was a fantastic step by step instructional article. In fact, your articles are always excellent, you are always thorough and well-prepared. I am intrigued with attempting what you have taught us even though I don’t know much about voltages and wattage but I am going to learn. Absolutely excellent article. I took thorough notes in case we lose internet. Thanks for your great work. 🙂
I have watched so many articles trying to learn this. I wasn’t taught a lot of the basics that most articles assume I should already know – and not only would I have made a mistake I probably would have hurt myself. (Like adding a washer or fuse.) Details matter and so does simplicity. Thank you for making this.
I love the simple instructions given in this article. Only two areas where I believe I can provide some additional insight. It is considered best practice to always connect the negative side of a DC circuit last and disconnect the negative first. This is because if the circuit is in a vehicle or machine the chassis is often connected to the negative so this will prevent any unintended short circuit while connecting the positive also any reverse polarity protection may be limited to the negative side of components do you are risking destroying your components of you instantly connect improperly. There are a few exceptions to the rule; if you are working on a positive grounded system (model T) If working on a house system as he is showing here without a chassis ground It really does not make a difference but it is good practice and off someone uses this article to install a system in their camper ⚡⚡⚡
Kris, I really appreciate all the work that you’ve done for us. This article is, for the most part, just about perfect. You make it very, very clear how critically important it is to avoid putting a load on the system prematurely. I had forgotten so much, and when you make mistakes with expensive (for me, it is!) equipment, that then must be tossed – well, all I can say is “Thanks!” But I believe that you need to go back and re-do a small part. There was one set of cables that you had no clear way to determine at a glance which was positive and which was negative. I would have taken some red electricians tape and marked each end of the one, bare minimum. But that is my only complaint. Excellent job.
I have pretty much this exact setup built into a robust standard box (apart from the solar panel, obviously). I drilled some holes into the front sidewall to integrate a few 12V sockets (don’t forget the fuses!). This makes the whole thing very portable, versatile and safe while still beeing super simple and reliable. In addition, there is even a cable to connect the battery to the car to charge it from the alternator, if needed. But be aware, this step needs serious cables, fuse, switch and a connector in proper dimensions. The setup has been working like this for quite some time now and i wouldn’t want to miss it! Greetings from switzerland!
Hi Kris, I just want to let you know that I absolutely love and appreciate the way you teach and present information. I learn best, and others like me, by being given Step by Step instructions along with an explanation of why those steps need to be taken and how they affect the overall process, even better if being shown how it is done along with step by step instructions. You provide all this in your demonstrations. I notice the detail and thought you put into your articles, all of which are greatly appreciated. For example, the way you lay out all the tools and pieces needed to put together a finished product that will result in some beneficial function, and more than that, you shoot the article to give the visual affect that one piece is added at a time to the layout of the full set of pieces and tools needed for the project, neatly laid out in order of when they will be needed to use. Great job presenting and you are so much appreciated for the detail you take the time and effort to put into your articles for us to watch for free. This really helped me understand how solar panels work with batteries in a way that no one I watched before explained.
Thanks for a detail and comprehensive instruction. I’m going to build a small system to power my shed. Basically just power a fan to cool down the temperature and fan. Could you please advise what size of the panel, battery, and inverter. Also where I can buy these stuffs. Your advice is much appreciated. Regards
I notice every time you connected to the battery terminal you did connect first the negative, that the reason why it make it spark. When connecting to battery terminal it must be positive first to avoid sparking, and when you remove to a battery terminal you remove first the negative to avoid sparking.
This is not a concern when using these on a vehicle as the vehicle frame acts as the ground in a floating ground system. However if you are installing these in a permanent setup for your home or a detached building it is important to properly ground these. That means driving at least two grounding rods at least six feet apart as required by code, but you may need more depending on your situation. Those grounding rods need to be bonded with a #4 bare copper wire to the system. The good news is with the particular inverter used in the article, I have one, you do not need to worry about binding the AC and DC side to ground. On all the various sizes of that inverter the DC negative is bonded to the AC grounding lug internally. As long as you run that #4 wire from the ground rod to that AC ground lug the entire system will be properly grounded. The aluminum frame of the panels should be bonded separately. Just the frames though.
Total solar noob here, with a critical need. I truly want to take advantage of the sale, but I’m not sure of how to get to my end goal of installing a small AC unit to keep an attic space cool in summer, via stand-alone solar power. The attic is approximately 600-800 sf., and has no vents. Any guidance on the size of window unit and a solar hookup is TRULY appreciated. TYIA.
Wow I now know a little more about how to set up a solar in my van when I buy it. Very simple. I do have one question tho. If I get a 100 amp battery and want to hook up a 2nd 100 amp battery I would use a heavy duty connector s but I go from pos to pos and neg to neg. Now with every thing connected does that change it from 12v to 24v system. I do want the outlet connection do to me using a coffee pot or an electric skillet. Also if I do 2 batteries what size solar panels do I need? I am thinking of mounting the panels on the roof of my van when I get it. Thanks for such an info article.
I set up my system (renogy charge controller, inverter is a different brand) exactly as you described. When I have my solar panels out (portable) I am not able to use the inverter at the same time (overheats immediately). Shouldn’t there be something between the battery and inverter to seperate solar power coming in and electricity going out of the battery to the inverter?
Hi Kris! Great article!! I’m a newbie at all of this stuff. I’m also a visual learner so this is perfect. Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge with others. I have one question.. if you connect the positive to the battery before the negative it won’t spark/arc ..correct? Like hooking up jumper cables on a car. I’ve seen this on several other sites and I’m curious. Thanks again for your articles!
Connect positive first, negative having less potential won’t arc. The higher the voltage, the greater the chance of arcing and fusion. On a car if negative first and you are touching any metal part of car, when attaching positive there is possibility of arcing through you. Your body becomes part of the circuit
You don’t need inventer when you only need DC power right? I need to power up a portable 12v DC air conditioner, a small 12v refrigerator and a phone ipad and few LED lights Which all of them can run on DC from battery so I don’t think I need an inventer when I can directly connect multiple cigarette lighter ports to battery with 15amp or 10amp fuse each?
Hello I have a question, my van has a setup that I installed that charges my auxiliary battery when I start my engine and cuts out when I shut off my engine so my cranking battery doesn’t drain when I’m using my auxiliary battery device’s, it’s a Stinger SGP32 power relay and I bought the same Renogy setup you have in the article, Do you think I can add that solar setup without a problem.
Question for you: How do I know if my components are incompatible with each other? Let’s say I purchased a 2000w inverter. How do I know which controller can handle the 2000w? Is 40A controller equaled 2000w? I can see having a 2000w inverter probably required maximum of 2000w solar panels. I wasn’t sure going about choosing the proper controller for the inverter.
Question for anyone who knows to answer. I’m working on converting my car for road trip living and very possibly long term (housing prices man 😭). It will be just me, the only things I’d need to power are my cell phone, recharging batteries for the car fridge I’m getting(battery powered with 2 batteries to switch out), and in colder times my tiny heater and recharging a battery for a heated blanket. I don’t see myself using it for much more, on occasion my little laptop possibly. Should I get a 100w panel or 200w? What do you guys recommend?
Awesome article! Does anyone know if you have to have a fancy inverter or can you buy one of the $40 3, 000w ones off of Walmart and rewire it into your campers electrical system? The only ones I’ve seen that have places for wires as opposed to a couple of plugs cost a lot more. In my applications I want to connect to the wiring. Maybe it requires more fuses or an electrical panel? If you wanted have more than one solar panel, how would you wire them? I’ve seen different wiring diagrams. Also, has anyone had experience with deep cycle batteries in cold environments? I have four 100 w solar panels and a 2000 w inverter and I have two 12v marine deep cycle batteries.
I am doing this right now, with a 100a circuit breaker between battery and converter as it will not be used by heavy appliances. Also added a 30a breaker between solar panels and charge controller, but that’s more as a easy switch to disconnect them. Did spent some hours learning which kind of wires to use at with lengths (bit confusing at first). I came out on a AWG6 which was sufficient for my setup.
Why is it important to have a temperature gauge on the battery will to hot or to cold interfere, I stay in Texas and am building a solar dog house with a/c I plan on putting everything in a box attached to the side so curious to know if the 110 heat will disrupt or malfunction? I wouldn’t want it to catch fire or harm my beloved dog thanks
Hi..seems like there is a lot of undoing and redoing..why not just start in the correct order? So I really have to hook the wires to the charge controller then disconnect them for the next step? Then I have to unhook the wires on the battery then disconnect them and then hook up the inverter? I’m confused.
Not sure if anyone could answer this but does the Charger Controller have a wattage limit? Meaning could I pair it with a 600W inverter or put a 5000W inverter does it matter? My apologies for the lack of knowledge I’m learning this and plan on adding it to a van of mine. I plan on using it for phones and cooler/freezer not that heavy equipment in my opinion.
I have 100 watt panel with mppt controller. My RM-6 shows 19.9v but only .64A and 8W from solar to battery with battery at 67%. The RM-6 is making an occasional chirping noise. Should the Array be turned off if the battery is being charged by the alternator or through the RV ac hookup which charges at about 13.+ volts. Thank you
When there are multiple solar panels, what voltage and amperage combintation do we want going into the controller? Also, If I just want to run appliances off of the solar panels directly without the batteries, is there a 120VDC to 120VAC converter? For example, say I have 300Watts total power. How can I use this direclty, without storing in batteries? Thanks
This was both straightforward and simple BUT also NOT. You go back and forth doing then UNdoing the assembly. This is a problem for first timers. Another problem area was at the end about capacity. The 20% discharge is NOT accurate for ALL batteries. Standard battery designs(lead acid) will be destroyed if you discharge them to 20%. But overall mostly good presentation.
Hello guys o) Please,Please I need your help 😭 I have trailer and batteries inside the trailer but in Ontario we have to have 12 v batteries out so I have to disconnect all system,place the battery out into isolated box and connect it again…..How can I disconnect the system,what to disconnect first ? Please explained step by step how to do it o(((( I am lost, thank you so much
Great article Kris. I am a complete novice to this and you made it very easy to understand. My question is can I apply this system in the woods to maintain a charge on my trail camera? I would build a box to protect the components but I heard you mention temperature. What can I do to protect the components from the heat of summer and the below freezing temps of winter? Thank you in advance for any help.
The only problem is that inverter will suck your battery dry in no time! Unless you have a very large battery bank! The reflexive load on the battery plus conversion will cost you! If you can use things that can work directly off the 12 volt battery. Most lighting will do it. Refrigerators, microwaves, and motors not only need alot of power but need true ac sine wave. The saving grace is they only work 1/3 of the time. (Refrigerator s). 😮 Your system needs maybe 3 x 300ah batteries, minimum. Better to have a kilowatt or two or three. And don’t forget you will need solar panels to match the batteries. Note: Ohm’s law. 2000 watt inverter. Battery = 12 volts. Watts/volts = amps (current) 2000/12= 166.66 Amps. This means 166.6 amps will be drawn from your battery.
Seems like you could have skipped most of this and just started with the last step which was connecting everything all at once. There was no reason given as to why one would connect the inverter first only to disconnect it then connect the panel only to disconnect it then to connect all of it. Just start with connect all of it and don’t waste your viewers time.
If an electric appliance is 300w, then a 300w, minimum, inverter is needed. I think it’s better to try to get a larger power handling inverter incase some higher power devices also need power. Most low cost systems are 12v, but the other ones are 24v, 36v and 48v. The higher volt systems have less charge or current drain from their battery(s), and can then power devices twice as long as for a 24v system compared to a 12v system. A DC voltage regulator(s) or “wall wart” transformers is something good to have with any solar energy system, and these can be used to power various electronic devices. Some charge controllers have a 5v DC output for devices such as a phone.
If you have ever built a article for YouTube you will truly appreciate how much effort went into making this easy to watch article, easy to watch. Brilliantly done sir!! Question I have a garage detached from my house away from my property. Putting power in there is t possible unless I use solar. I want to be able to charge one of my electric cars (PHEV) the battery is 16.3kwh. It usually takes 3 hours from a 240v (standard uk setup) how many battery’s and panels would you suggest to make this a stand alone proposition. Sub from me. Thank you
It would have been so easy to simply show and explain how to put a wrap of red electrical tape on each end of one of the battery cables designating it as “plus”. Thus eliminating the need for the confusing disclaimer about being careful to connect plus to plus and minus to minus. (Even more disappointed in the cable supplier for not simply adding 2 pieces of red heat shrink to one of the cables for this same reason.)
Subscribed, love this simple article. Im trying to do this with my Nucamp teardrop..got a 1000 watt renogy inverter and a 100ah renogy smart battery. I have these 100 watt zamp solsr panels that come with a controller that is integrates. I wont need the renogy charge controller woukd i? Very new to the solar stuff but your article made it easier
This is nice but as someone who is an automotive electrician, please connect the positive first on the inverter and the negative second. This is in the case of the presence of our favorite element hydrogen in lead acid batteries if someone is using one. No hate at all btw! I’m currently working on making a 12 volt and 120 volt solar system for my camp. I’m just looking for some ideas
I have a question, first, please know I love this tutorial and thank you for your time! Is there a way to not have to disconnect the cables from charge to battery each time you want to draw power from your 1st solar charge? That seems like a pain to have to do each time. I’m a 1st timer trying to gain knowledge. ✌🏼
So I’m just wanting to make a solar panel that just Powers some fans my Greenhouse I’m trying to stay in this low budget as I can does anybody know how to make a solar panel that will power two outlets for two fans to be plugged into that’s all it’s going to be powering haven’t been able to find anything through my research online about how to do this
Just found your website. Thanks for the easy DIY instructions. Was hoping you could guide me in the right direction. I’m trying to figure out if I can run a Dynatrap mosquito trap on solar. Could tell me if it’s possible and what I’d need to make that happen? It’s model# DT2020XLP 120V / 60 Hz / 0.2 AMPS / 25W. I have one plugged in but I’d like to place one in another location where I don’t have power. Thanks for any guidance you can give 👍🏽
Thank you for explaining this. I understand what you have said now how do you hook up the inverter to run conversion trailer and I want to run two combo refrigerator freezers plus lights plus a mini split plus a 110 air conditioner with a cool bot .now question: how much power do I need? How many batteries? And how or can I hook up wind turbines to a solar system or do I need a switch in between. I know its alot but nobody has answered these questions
Thank you for a fantastic article explaining the steps so clearly. If I used your system, what is the formula to know how many watts I can get from the same system so I can have uninterrupted power during the day? Also can the solar panel generate energy on a cloudy day? If so, do you know at about what % compared to a sunny day? Thank you
Do you have a article about the load outputs – I “assume” that if you have a 12v controller I will get 12v DC output assuming that the solar panel is getting decent sun. Please correct my assumptions. Appreciate that. I have a 24v solar/wind hybrid mppt controller with DC output. Unfortunately the manual has extremely sparse info – Was hoping to power 12v (with a stepdown) light bulbs outside. Thanks
I don’t like the way you hooked up everything, then unhooked everything and then added the inverter. This wasn’t, “step by step”. Also, you assumed that EVERYONE was using anything but lead/acid batteries and could discharge the batteries down to 20%. You CAN’T do that to the lead/acid batteries, it’s 50% minimum discharge to not ruin your batteries.
Ok. So I’m wanting to do an inverter set up, on my truck to run some fans, I do retriever field trials. And have to keep the dogs cool. Can I not use the solar to charge the battery while the fans are running off the inverter? Or should I get some DC fans and just not use a power inverter and just run the Dc fans off the battery while the solar is charging the battery and just not do an inverter?
Hello! I hope you’re doing well! I have some questions if I may. I’ve been wanting to build a solar powered vehicle. Nothing heavy or extravagant, just basic, light weight with only lights (optional). How would I go about this? How much energy would I need to generate? How many batteries would I need? How many panels? I don’t need this thing to go high speeds, I just want to not rely on gasoline and limit any oils and whatnot. I will be honest, I don’t have much knowledge on solar power but this is something that I REALLY want to do. Help? 🙏 Please?
Great, instructional article ! I get confused with these 12 V systems, with a solar panel (s) in series produce 60 bolts open… I bought the system already installed on the trailer, and I still don’t understand it ! I don’t understand why people keep saying solar panels produce 12 V, they don’t. Even the smaller panel I have produces 22 V and 3 amps. if anybody could explain this to me, it would be awesome .
1) don’t use battery temp sensor with lithium iron phosphate batteries 2) need a fuse on the battery to charge controller positive wire 3) need more than 100ah battery to provide the full 2000w from the inverter. Renogy recommends 170ah + 4) fuses and wires should be supported,… especially if in a vehicle 5) should be a cut off switch for the solar panels 6) inverter’s grounding connection is missing
I have so many questions Very interested on doing this. How do I calculate my power needs? I don’t want to run an entire house i want to run a small cottage I’d like to power a small hot water heater, TV, computer, 3 or 4 LED lights, router, modem, with enough juice left over if i needed to plug the odd appliance in for cooking I wont run a fridge or stove, maybe a small bar fridge later. How many panels and batteries? And does any decent controller work? I have a 40Amp Renolgy