Aluminum windows can let air in or out of your home, but sealing the joints is essential to prevent this issue. Silicone caulk is ideal for sealing around metal and glass, and is recommended for all areas of your building’s exterior. If you have aluminum windows and doors fitted recently, the fitters left sizeable gaps between the window frame and the wood frame.
Aluminum cladding is beneficial for improving energy efficiency by reducing drafts and heat loss, ultimately saving you money on heating and cooling bills. A flush mount window option is suitable for homes with vinyl J-channel window finishing or windows mounted inside a brick, stone, or other material frame. It often involves a thin outer frame secured by caulking.
To seal gaps and cracks in window trim, capping helps improve energy efficiency by reducing drafts and heat loss, ultimately saving you money on heating and cooling bills. Exterior cladding protects a home from the elements and pests, making a great visual statement. Depending on the gap size, you can fill it with backer rod or low expansion foam and then caulk. If the gap is too big, you would need to fill it with backer rod or foam and cover the foam with color matching metal trim.
For cladding around windows, use aluminum, wrap the substrate before installing the window, use flashing to your advantage, and clad for the space required behind the brick veneer. Caulking is used to fill gaps around windows outside for small cracks, while for larger gaps, insert an appropriately sized foam backer rod into the gap.
📹 aluminum trim work, capping a wooden window frame
How to fill a large gap between a window and brick?
Anchor Foundation Repair offers six options to handle gaps between window frames and brick. These include ignoring the gap, using caulk instead, applying mortar instead of caulk, removing and replacing damaged sections, redoing the entire brick wall on one or more sides of the home, and raising the foundation using foundation repair. Anchor Foundation Repair has over 35 years of experience in identifying signs and symptoms around the home during foundation inspections. This article will explain what is causing the gap between a window frame and brick veneer siding and explore repair options to help you decide what to do to handle this problem.
How do you cover gaps between windows?
To seal windows and doors, fill small cracks and gaps with caulking, then use foam backer rods to fill larger gaps. Expandable foam can be used for larger gaps. After cured, trim the foam flush and stain or paint it to match the house. For more information on weatherproofing windows, doors, and trim, refer to our detailed guide on caulking doors and windows. Sealing window frames is crucial for maintaining a safe and secure environment.
How to seal exterior gaps?
Expanding foam is a popular solution for larger holes like phone line penetrations and pipe entry points, but it should be kept away from electrical boxes and fire hazards. To keep rodents out, fill the gap with wire mesh or steel wool, then fill the space with expanding foam according to the package instructions. Allow the foam to dry, trim off excess, and sand it down for a smooth finish. If needed, cover it with paint.
For holes requiring ventilation, use metal hardware cloth or metal lath, which is breathable mesh suitable for keeping out larger pests like rodents, bats, and squirrels. Cut the mesh to size and staple it over the gap.
How do you seal the gap between an aluminium window and a brick wall?
One solution is to use an aluminum angle to glue a flat metal face to the wall using Sika Pro+. The edge should span across the gap to the top, with a 20mm edge on the wall and a 32mm edge to hide the gap. Cut the aluminum to size from the bottom of the window ledge to the top, and mask the wall with tape to avoid messes. Use aluminum as a guide and a bead of Sika Pro+ to seal the aluminum to the wall.
How to fix a large gap between a window and a frame?
This article provides a step-by-step guide on fixing a gap between a window sash and frame. It covers the first-hand cleaning process, inserting a backing rod, applying masking tape, preparing caulk and placing cartridge, applying sealant, keeping the area clean, and painting the frame. The article also discusses the UK window style and design, offering a solution without requiring significant investment.
The basic materials needed for fixing the gap include tape, a putty knife, a utility knife, silicone caulk, paint, a caulking gun, and masking tape. The article emphasizes the importance of maintaining cleanliness and proper maintenance of the window and frame.
How do you fill exterior gaps?
In order to address a significant discrepancy, it is recommended to work in single layers, one at a time. This entails applying a single line of caulk, followed by another layer above it, until the gap is reduced to a single layer. It is inadvisable to fill the gap from the bottom to the top in a single continuous operation.
How do you block window gaps?
DIY methods to seal gaps in windows and prevent cold air leaks are available. Duck Brand White Rubber Rope Caulk, removable Caulk, and Foam Backer Rods are some of the quick and effective DIY methods to block window gaps and prevent cold air leaks. These solutions can help keep your home warm and insulate your windows when the thermostat dips below freezing. By following these quick fixes, you can enjoy the comfort of a cozy house during freezing weather without the need for expensive window treatments or replacement windows.
What is a window spacer?
Spacers are essential components in window units, separating glass panes and providing structural integrity and thermal and moisture seal. Available in foam or stainless steel, stainless steel spacers offer the most value and significantly contribute to a window’s thermal performance, aesthetics, and durability. Thermal performance is a key indicator of a high-quality window, and studies show that stainless steel spacers perform just as well as foam alternatives in terms of blocking cold air in winter and hot air in summer. Overall, stainless steel spacers play a crucial role in enhancing a window’s performance.
How to seal around aluminium windows?
Before sealing a window or frame, clean it thoroughly to remove dirt and soap residues. Look for gaps where draught or condensation is entering and apply a silicone-free release agent to prevent the sealant from clinging to the window’s attachment points. Stick tape around the sealant edges to prevent wonky lines. Apply enough sealant around the window and smooth it carefully, using a caulking gun to distribute the right amount of pressure. Avoid applying silicone sealants to damp surfaces, as they will slide off. If the sealant appears wet, repeat the process.
How do you get rid of window gaps?
To apply the gap filler to the area in question, it is necessary to exert a steady pressure on the trigger of the caulking gun. Once this has been done, the nozzle should be moved in a smooth and continuous motion along the joint in question. Any excess material should be removed with a finger, spoon, or spatula that has been dipped in a solution of water and detergent in a 50/50 ratio.
How do you fill gaps around exterior windows?
Prior to caulking exterior windows, it is imperative to meticulously clean the area and select an appropriate caulk that is both waterproof and weather-resistant. Once the caulk gun has been loaded, the caulk should be applied and smoothed, and the area should be sealed to ensure a smooth and secure finish.
📹 Aluminum Clad, Vinyl Clad, Window Deterioration THE TRUTH Pella Andersen
Video explains how aluminum clad and vinyl clad casement, awing, double hung, and single hung windows and slicing exterior …
Defective seal on all 5 lower clad panels on two ProLine 450 aluminum clad sliders leading to leaks that ruined finished basement below as water pours in through wood seams on the INSIDE of the panels. And yes, I could see green plants growing out from the clad this spring where the rotted wood had ballooned the clad away from the seal and glass. When I called Pella, I was told ‘thank you for letting us know – is there anything else I can assist you with’. When I called the store I purchased them from and who installed them, was told nothing we could do. Forced to caulk all panels to prevent any further leaks I hope. They can not take the freeze thaw cycles of northern New England. My original Norco all-wood windows and doors lasted 30 years.
I just replaced a clad window this week. Under the metal the wood was totally rotted. They were installed properly, the failure was from water working its way around the cladding. Back in 1990 our Marvin windows rotted away within ten years and I was forced to replace them. In as much as there was a second party law suit going one and we could not suit Marvin windows. I could go on and on about this.
Well apparently there is a God and you are his messenger. I couldn’t have come across this article at a better time. I have a house built in 1900. Of course the windows need help. I could repair or replace the sashes but I was thinking of putting in replacement inserts. I just today went to the Andersen dealer to talk about ordering. I waited because I wanted to remeasure. While looking at Youtube articles I came across one about Andersen windows failing due to rot and provided a link to a website talking about that. Many complaints described the sashes rotting because water had gotten under the vinyl. Then your article popped up. You talk about the very problem that the complaints were talking about. It makes complete sense. If water ever gets under the vinyl it will just sit there and rot the wood. Now I have to reconsider my plans. What about replacement windows with no wood? Or should I just bite the bullet and redo the sashes? Thanks for you article
glad I found your article I was just about to purchase vinyl clad patio doors and I’m sure they are made a lot better now then in 2011 but I was not happy about it’s look so I will keep my old aluminum and have that repaired just the track I have no other issues with it other then being ugly which I decided to paint
This guy should do a little more homework on the Andersen 400 series “Permashield” Clad window. Andersen is the first Clad/Wood window on the market and was brought out in 1966. The 400 series casement window is the best “Bang for your Buck” window on the market with the strength and warmth of wood, Clad in Low Maintenance of Vinyl clad on the exterior.
My Anderson patio door bottoms are failing they are vinyl clad over wood they were good for a long time the clad let go and i was not able to open the closed screen door because of this, then the Horror the clad was separated from the wood if you what to call it wood anymore – it looked like landscape bark Anderson said to bad we can find you in our files ? so i’,m SOL – I bought all vinyl windows for our house was skeptical but no i look like a genius NO Rot or deterioration
1) The 30% energy difference, if you read the fine print, is determined when you compare a single pane product to a new double pane product with Low-E and Argon/Krypton gas. 2) The wood used in the 1920s up to the 1970s all had Arsenic treatments in them as well which made them less likely to experience wood rot. Since the government stepped in and stopped that particular treatment process having been linked to cancer, window manufacturers were forced to used a new process which didn’t work so well at first until they perfected it. Every wood window manufacturer went through a class action lawsuit regarding wood rot due to this, including JeldWen whom you never mentioned. 3) You mentioned your “Pella Contractor” came out and reinstalled your windows. First of all, the only way to remove that particular window you showed was to cut it out as the nailing flange was covered by the stucco or whatever that was. Secondly, if you install a window into a new home, there will be shifting and the opening will not be perfectly plumb, square and level when you replace the existing window with a new window. So there will be some gaps around it which require caulking. I cannot say if the “contractor” used the backer rod before he caulked around it which would prevent any issues regarding the caulking and things getting behind it. Note: The best window your money can buy is only as good as the professional who installs it properly! 4) Pella cleary defines the surfaces that are required to be painted on ALL wood/clad and wood/wood windows.
I recently bought a bunch of Marvin clad ultimate double hungs and saw the salesmen added a up-charge for “back priming” which I didn’t ask for. I was mad when he explained back priming is applying primer to the unexposed edges of the window, I thought it was a gimmick and he was trying to pull a fast one on me. I wish I watched this article before demanding it removed from order specs!
This is a great article. I know I got here a little late. However, I had a few Semco aluminum clad wood windows I replaced last year. I had interior mold issues on the bottom sashes (of a double double hung unit). One of the other windows (casement) started to rot on the bottom sash rail. I replaced those windows prior to seeing this article. I opted to go with Sunrise Standard vinyl windows. I also splurged for triple pane windows and a golden oak interior. Based on this article, it looks like I made a wise choice. Thanks again for putting this out there as this was a very informative article.
So, I just spent over an hour perusal the article and reading all the comments. My head hurts. I’ve been researching windows for over a month. hours and hours. the more I look and listen to all the opinions, the more I’m overwhelmed. We’ve gotten bids for wood clad Anderson, Marvin, Sun, and Sierra windows. Then vinyl bid we got last night was over $4000 for 4 KHPP vinyls and an HGI front door and sidelites bid of $5600. The Therma-tru door bid was only $1500! But I was told TT is junk. But, then again, I hear that about everything. Every time I think something sounds good and we’re gonna go with it, then I hear THAT”S JUNK! My husband jumped the gun and tore out the huge rotten bow window in our kitchen a month ago. So, here we are in the middle of Covid BS, with orders out for 8 weeks, we can’t come to a decision and we have a tarp separating us from the outside. Every time we talk people walking down the street can hear what we’re saying. I’m sure it’s great entertainment for passers-by when we get into loud arguments! Pull up the popcorn, Wanda, they’re havin a smack-down! ….Yes, I’m losing my mind over stupid windows. Maybe I’ll just move to the mountains and live in a cave.
Amazing as I know people who still have wood windows with 1 pane that have not rotted. These are old homes but nice homes. Now why can’t they build a damn good window today? Pella is lousy. Their aluminum clad wood are junk. Rot. I know. I’m in on it. Sobs. And yes on trees. It’s disgusting today. And fiberglass is the best or a strong vinyl. Andersen fixed their error in the 80s and now their windows have a strong vinyl surround to the windows and then wood. My Mothers 400 series Andersen casements are 12 and 23 years old and in perfect condition except for some sun fade on the interior wood which can’t be helped but an easy fix. Not wood rot.
Wow, you are right on most of what you are saying. Tyvek is not a permeable material in the winter! External pressure in the summer never rival those of the interior in the winter. I have torn of probably 1000 home exteriors in the northeast and I have only witnessed condensation related damage on the exterior side of the wall. The window information is largely correct. Wood elements need to be sealed properly. I wanted to ask what you consider a “proper window flashing” as you seem to be married to the underlayment craze which is not a flashing and the main contributor to the problems in the industry.
another reason for seal failure in double pane plastic aluminum windows i E fogging,water vapor entry, glass shipped to window factories is coated with plastic beads,,fine grit that prevents breakage during transit,when worker crews remove glass from the crate setting it on the carpeted table cleaning meant to remove the grit is the house mix of blue windex type liq spray cleaner,This stuff does not remove the grrit.., so when butyl caulking binds the 2 panes together, gas bleed out occurs and vapor is seen inside the 2 panes,,the caulk does not adhere and seal leaks,glazers pumice or cerium oxide preps the glass cleanly,and glass gets squeaky clean making good seals before the butyl caulk is applied,, Older storm windows,when glass is cut on the table or the bench where the boot is applied to the glass edge, medium grit sand paper rasped along every sharp edge results in glass that will grab this rubber boot better,and take slams and drops without window breakage,,OSHA rules and regs in glass handling demand workers use cotton or thick rubber gloves to handle glass, so sand paper to solve the problem is out of use wherever glass is handled glass cutter chipping edges ought to be used to round the 4 corners then feathered with sandpaper.,rounded edges add to the storm sash strength,
I must be the only person who has had good window luck. Anderson 200 Narrowline 33 years and counting! 18 windows and 1 slider. Live in the Northeast, removed trees that were close to my house, heat with coal, back-up with oil. Painted the house this year and paid attention to window sills, caulking etc. Found this article when trying to research replacing Anderson sash cord.
I lived in a brand new house 1961, with modern AL single pane windows, JUNK, JUNK JUNK, literally formed 3 inches of ICE in the winter, talk about rotted sills and sides, cold and uncomfortable, Single pane AL framed stuff was worse than anything of the worst Andersen or Pella …Glass technology has improved low e 3 coatings really do work, I have Sun low 3 Andersen casements, blocks so much solar heat the AC and the entire house is much more comfortable…glass coatings matter. Velux low e 3 skylights, big improvement over older Andersen low e from 1989, the rubber seals dried out after 29 years on the Andersens, Velux have improved on roof windows, Andersen is out of the skylight products, Velux has the biggest market share…lots of problems are due to poor installations. Andersen no longer make the Narrowline products…all vinyl windows are horrible, cheap, ugly, and they fall apart
This is why high-end builders stick with 100% wood. I repaint and caulk my trim every other year. Anyone who doesn’t inspect and re-caulk their windows/trim etc is the cause of 100% of the damage I see as a REALTOR. Any material used on/in a home needs to be maintained. I just sold a home built in 1992 with 100% original wood windows/doors and Masonite (ooh bad, right? NO not bad, if maintained) siding that looked brand new like the day it was installed. The owner who built the home and was original owner selling maintained his home from day one. I believe all materials fail because of bad install and bad home maintenance. I own a home built in 1998 with original wood windows. I have a few with broken seals that I will replace with same materials. Anyone telling you that you will make up the cost of new windows with energy savings is wrong. It can take decades to recoup the cost. Cannot believe how many people believe this about new windows. The math does not add up for me to ever replace or recommend replacement of perfectly good in working order windows.
This and a few other things I have found on line have saved me from spending $1700 on a Pella Proline 450 Series sliding door at Lowes. It was aluminum clad wood. I will not buy a cladded door. I almost did because my parents house has JeldWen steel exterior french doors over wood that have held up. Going for solid vinyl or getting my existing solid vinyl repaired. I just went back into Lowes and took a closer look at the Proline 450 Enduraclad, aluminum over wood. Crawled down on the floor after I though I felt bare wood. Sure enough the exterior bottom of the door has bare wood, which I was able to take a picture of. I don’t care what they might treat that with, I don’t want exposed wood on the exterior of an aluminum door.
Thanks for this article. A lot of information. I am unclear on opinion of going with s sliding glass door by Anderson either the Proline wood interior with vinyl clad exterior or the Permashield which is all vinyl clad. Both clad over the engineered wood . I don’t know if it is a rolled clad and would be a problem? I have an all wood door now…any recommendations or cautionary tales or better brands in same price range? I was also going to buy direct and not go through Home Depot. Any comments? In live in CO climate. Thanks for your help! it is needed!
A fair article, but I’d say you dump a lot of problems into the same basket. Installation issues are not manufacture issues. Also I think you have to look at design issues in the house or project, it seems like no one knows how to vent and drain water properly. I also don’t like the argument about old windows being superior. Yes, they are, but that wood is gone and its not coming back. I do wish that window manufacturers would use hardwoods though, but none do. The best point you make and can’t repeat enough is that water moves from the interior to the exterior of the house. The house needs to breath, too tight a house with improper ventilation / drainage chokes the house and will rot it.
Wood windows need to be painted. What are manufacturers thinking selling it unpainted? Nothing they arent clairvoyant they dont know what color you will paint your windows or whether you will stain them. They will however paint them for you at present time the cost is 200 per window. Marvin will paint all the individual pieces prior to assembly so you will get paint even at the saw line.
What do you think of Integrity by Marvin Wood-Ultrex (“pultruded” fiberglass) casement windows? They are wood on the inside and fiberglass ultrex on the outside (I think-but not sure- they are solid fiberglass, not clad). BUT the inside frame around the window that the casement mechanism fits into is unpainted wood on the side of the window that faces the exterior of the house. Thanks for your input and your great article.
Have Andersen vinyl clad casement windows installed when we built the house 31 years ago. They have performed excellent and replaced 3 casement sashes for seal failure which Andersen replaced two of them well past warranty. Building a new home in hurricane area and need impact glass. Will look at Andersen again as well as others. I do think how well they are installed can cause a large number of failures. Nice job on explaining the causes of failures on some window systems…
Pella windows are over rated pieces of CRAP. I have the Architectural Series installed in 1999. What a pain in the ass to tilt in for cleaning with the ridiculous nylon tension cables screwed into the sash and the easy to dent aluminum exterior clad. The flimsy aluminum screen frames are out of square and impossible to install.
So Marvin apparently has a top-secret factory where they have developed a superior fiberglass window. It costs less than other windows of equal quality because they are made robotically, and therefore cost lass to actually make. Do they hold up? Are fiberglass windows the real deal or just marketing hype?
Thank you for posting your article. We live in South Jersey near Philadelphia. We have 23 Andersen double-hung vinyl windows in our home which was built in 1992. Three of 23 window sills are rotten. Not as badly as in your article. Only the about 4-6 inches into the sill. Like the window in your article, they are missing the end-caps. Can I repair these? Do I have any recourse with Andersen? What should I do with he other 20 windows? Regards, Rob
NEW NEWS on Pella and Andersen Window Failures (New Marko Youtube article) article explains how aluminum clad and vinyl clad casement, awing, double hung, and single hung windows and sliding exterior doors deteriorate. The article shows four different ways these windows and doors fail. The article also provides guidance and give tips on what to do if you have deteriorated windows.
Most, if not all of the problems you show in your article with clad windows are ROLLED clad. which is exactly as it sounds – the aluminum or vinyl is literally rolled over the sill and therefore allows water to sit between the wood sill and the vinyl/aluminum “cover” and therefore more prone to rot. However, another type of clad window that you didn’t mention in your article is the EXTRUDED clad! Marvin isn’t the only extruded aluminum clad, there are less-known window companies that also make extruded aluminum or vinyl clad with wood interiors that are more reasonably priced. Windsor, Eagle, Lincoln, Kolbe, WeatherShield, Marvin were among my favorites when I built that make an extruded window with wood frames. They do cost a bit more than the cheap rolled types but if you want wood frames and interiors, it’s worth a few extra bucks for peace of mind that will last 30 years!
Uh oh, This sr citizen just signed w/ Pella, for Pro-Line alum-clad-over-pine replacement windows (painted interior on two, other one stained). Now I’m spooked. Wonder if able to cancel at this point. However, my home is not high end, and intend to sell in 2 yrs, also cannot afford Marvin. Pella final price including installation, was lower than Anderson by nearly $2,000, but Pella’s $3400-$3800 (depending on financing choice) still seems on high side… IF alum over wood is not good.
@Clevelandmarko Rush hour around Paris is hell, I actually put up a lotta vids on this. I sleep attached to a sleep apnea machine with a humidifier. We leave the window open as much as possible and the French try to air out each room for ten minutes daily. Minimum. Odd climate here, foul air, not a healthy place. I just try to keep that bad window ungunked, there is this cool drainage system in it. A groove and I have to poke a hanger in there and ungunk it.
This former Clevelander, who loves this website, lives in France now, where building and the climate are of course different. We have c. 1967 wooden windows, single pane, there are no screens nor storm windows here, no sash weights, windows open inward. Except for one window which is getting a tad iffy, we continue to resist “new windows.” My stingy French spouse seems to be right in this case. That one window is in a rather damp area and we sleep in the big room, probably need to replace.
I was booted out of a subdivision for not using the developer’s preferred Andersen clad windows, I insisted that the 100% vinyl windows I recommended were not only much cheaper, but were what most homeowners needed/preferred because of the greatly reduced maintenance. Fast forward 15 years and this developer has been sued multiple times for faulty installation of their “premium” windows. I have had ZERO complaints on window functionality.
@Clevelandmarko You mean 2012 ha ha! Try to include me, my spouse will not care. I went to Turkey alone last year to explore my Köprülü roots. Even your family name seems familiar to me. I am related to this guy named Franc Kosir. My mother gave me a written family tree. Most of we Slovenes of Cleveland are kissin’ cousins. It’s very congenial. My second husband met the Slovak family as they called themselves and loved the food! It was très cool. Your French Connection . . .
@Clevelandmarko Your semi-Slovenian connection over here in France at this point, hee hee! I think I may be Köprülü and am looking into all THAT. My old mother is still alive and was in real estate for years in Cleveland. Crazy family, lotsa good memories actually, a blessing. My other side is Pennsy Dutch. Kind of a typical Ohio mix, especially for CLE. I am saving up for a visit to Slovenia. My mother and her dad did that and had a blast! I have to convince my Parisian spouse, tho.
My andersen patio vinyl clad door are rotten at the bottom – they used cheap pine boards untreated – put vinyl clad over with adhesive and they rot just about the time the warranty expires. I have a few years left on the glass how do I get the glass to be compromised so I can still file a claim without them saying I caused it.
Two questions: 1) How is it OK to have a vinyl clad window but it’s not OK to have a aluminum clad window with regards to the exterior vapor barrier in cold months (where moisture is trying to push towards the outside of the house)? I would think that vinyl would act as a vapor barrier just the same as aluminum would, no? I ask because Brad Purvis posted that his 31 year old Andersen vinyl clad windows are performing well, and you replied that “Andersen Rules”. I’m trying to understand how a vinyl clad would solve the exterior vapor barrier issue you noted in the article; and 2) I’m currently getting estimates to replace all the windows in my home, and from what I understand all of the main manufacturers (Andersen, Marvin and Pella) had issues with their clad windows in the 90’s and early ’00s which (supposedly) have since been resolved. I’m looking at the new Pella 450s for my home — do you know if the current production line of aluminum clad 450’s have the same sealing issue with the aluminum and will eventually rot out and deteriorate? I certainly don’t want to replace all my windows again in 10 years…. I also had a quote from Renewal by Anderson and (at first) was ready to jump in. I liked the idea of the Fibrex windows and they looked close enough to wood that I wouldn’t lose the classic feel in the house. I asked the rep if the fibrex renewals were better than the anderson retail windows like the 400 series — and he confidently said “yes, there the only one andersen will install, so you know they’re good.
@Clevelandmarko That’s what I see on clips! It breaks my heart. I left in ’75, moved to Kent then to NYC in ’77. I remember a decaying rust belt but there were still nice aspects to it. I still have contacts there, found some via YouTube, people I never actually knew but are around my age and still live there, it is fun to reconnect! My parents were mostly just horrible to my current spouse, which is why he asked to leave early. He saw the horrible winter, what an experience!
I appreciate the article and insight into window failure.. I have Eagle Aluminum clad wood windows that are in various stages of rotting out (installed in 1997) – somehow missed the replacement opportunity while they were under warranty – i even had eagle come out while under 10 year warranty and all they did was replace a few parts and I didn’t recognize the extent of the issue. Andersen has now bought Eagle – I am reluctant to get aluminum clad window replacements even though I understand (from talking to an installer at a home show last weekend) part of the issue back in 1997 was industry wide and in part driven by the EPA which made it illegal to use standard method to protect the wood from rot and they had to scramble and use something that really didn’t work. (not sure how true that is and welcome feedback) At this point looking at renewal by andersen – what I don’t like is that it is a wood veneer instead of real wood on inside – nice looking and from reading here people have good experiences. Also Zen Windows promotes an all fiberglass window also with wood veneer (comfortline windows) – very solid and looks nice. Made by Fiberframe which has been in business for 30 plus years and claim to fame is they made first fiberglass window. Mostly Fiberframe does commercial windows Finally considering the Andersen A series with fiberglass clad wood window with fibrex sill – nice to have real wood and like idea of fiberglass over 400 series vinyl clad – although many people like them.
i bought Anderson double hung windows and installed on them in my house as I was building it in 1992. I bought the “terratone” color vinyl clad double insulated. Most of the windows that are on the south side and west end of my house have warped sills caused from direct sunlight and heat… They are so bubbled up that I can no longer install insect screens. You can see where the sill has raised up and pulled out from under the side sashes. Is there any solutions for my situation? I have thought about using a heat gun and see if I could heat the vinyl and re-shape it to the contour of the wooden sill beneath.