How To Construct Ornamental External Columns?

Building decorative columns can transform your home’s exterior by adding or reimagining the role of front porch columns. These architectural elements can redefine the entire look and can be made from various materials such as steel, iron, wood, stone, brick, or some. Whether you’re looking for something to support your porch roof, match your home’s architectural style, or create curb appeal, you’ve come to the right place for column ideas.

To create a craftsman-style base unit, wrap existing porch columns in stained wood and build a craftsman-style base unit. Jeff and Kevin show how to customize decorative columns with a mahogany rail cap for the front porch. Porch columns have long been a timeless piece of exterior decor that bring unmatched value to a home.

To create DIY Craftsman-style porch columns, follow these steps:

  1. Build a base with 2×4 and 2×6 studs. Secure a 2×4 on one side of the corner wall. Cover the base with 1/2″ MDF and cover the 2x framing with 1/2″ MDF on three sides. Create boxes with 1×2 material, such as prime pine, and attach one piece to the base.

  2. Cut posts to length from 6×6 beams for wider columns up to 8 feet tall, or laminate vertical boards for narrower posts. Glue and clamp all pieces together.

In summary, building decorative columns can add character and curb appeal to your home’s exterior with a few tools, basic materials, and creativity.


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How To Construct Ornamental External Columns
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Rafaela Priori Gutler

Hi, I’m Rafaela Priori Gutler, a passionate interior designer and DIY enthusiast. I love transforming spaces into beautiful, functional havens through creative decor and practical advice. Whether it’s a small DIY project or a full home makeover, I’m here to share my tips, tricks, and inspiration to help you design the space of your dreams. Let’s make your home as unique as you are!

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5 comments

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  • Check to see if your blade is square with the fence and square with the table. The blade has to be off to cut your material at an angle like that. Also, it looked like you caulked the bottom where you installed the PVC. Any water that flows down in the boot molding will get trapped and sit there. It could fill all the way up that bottom 1″ if it rained hard.

  • im a little late on commenting but just stumbled across your article . i just bought a new compound mitre saw and am having the same issue only on 45 cuts. it seems it is just a bit out of square and is an easy fix thanks to you tube lol. search for how to square a compound mitre saw. now mine is cutting straight every time.also cut slow sometimes cutting fast will cause the blade to get off a bit or flex.awesome job on the posts man.

  • Sam, I quite like the Ltrim up the column as well. Check this vid out to check the accuracy on your miter saw (pretty sure we call them drop saws in Australia 🙂 ) youtu.be/iX05oi3HtFY?t=6m25s That little trick should help you figure out if its your blade that’s cutting off and maybe an angle adjustment is required. Be sure to note that BOTH the height and depth cuts are checked. But I still think its a good way to check it!

  • i like the article – I’m in the process of buying a home that has 4 decorative iron columns on the front porch and to me they look old so I want to wrap them like this but also do a stacked stone treatment around the lower section for a much nicer look. Also on the left side of the house is a carport supported by wood 4X4 beams that I’d like to do this to as well which I think would make the home so awesome. I was just wondering if anyone has wrapped iron columns before instead of removing them? They are very sturdy even though the home is like 87 years old.

  • Hey Sam, Great article! Thanks 🙂 I’ve taken a quick look at a few of the comments below & would tend to agree with those who said the molding, is parts, slightly, but only slightly warped/bowed. That aside, even if the trim was perfectly straight it’s been my personal experience a blade with 60-80 teeth set closer together + have one of the 2 following ‘Tooth Configuration’: “Alternate Top Bevel (ATB)” OR “High Alternate Top Bevel (Hi-ATB)” will yield a straight & finer with little to no chipping Vs. the blade I see you’re using in the article. Slowing down the speed you pull on your handle(I.e.: cut slower will help too.) At least that’s been my experience, but don’t take my word for it, do a google search you’re sure to find many a page, article, etc. braking down which blade is best for the job. 🙂 Here are a few pages that you might find helpful: aconcordcarpenter.com/choosing-a-saw-blade.html rockler.com/how-to/blades-101/ thejoyofmoldings.com/miter-saw-blade-for-cutting-moldings/ Feel free to let me know what you think & I’m always open to other persons opinions, so feel free to share yours with me.. Thanks…

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