This guide provides a step-by-step guide on how to build a wooden fence gate that won’t sag. The guide includes steps to plan the gate size and layout, purchase necessary tools and materials, construct the fence gate frame, install gate frame bracing, install gate frame “balusters”, attach picket “Veneer” to the font of the fence gate, mount the gate, and install gate hardware. The guide also includes instructions on how to change the width of the gate by adding or subtracting cedar boards.
The guide covers 24 modern gate designs for driveways, front entryways, and yards, including a 42-inch-wide wood gate. The guide includes tools, materials, diagrams, and instructions for building the frame. The gate gate designs are easy-to-build, providing privacy and protection while enhancing the home’s exterior. The guide includes measurements, building a gate frame, reinforcing with a cross frame, creating the front of the gate, and considering the top of the gate.
The guide also includes instructions on how to make a garden gate with pre-stained 2x4s and two anti-sag kits from National Hardware. The guide offers the best and most cost-efficient way to build a gate for your wood fence that won’t sag.
📹 How to build a deck gate
This video guides viewers through building a simple wooden deck gate. The creator, Sam, provides detailed instructions on measuring, cutting, and assembling the gate, including tips for spacing balusters evenly. The video includes a trip to the hardware store to gather materials and a demonstration of the tools needed for the project.
📹 How to Build a Garden Gate | Easy Step by Step Guide
In this video i will be showing you how to build a garden gate. I will explain how to make a strong half lap joint and how to correctly …
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That bracing information is brilliant, never knew that! One thing I would say; if you haven’t a spare bit of timber to clamp to prevent the blow out of wood when drilling through, is to watch for the pilot part of the bit coming through and then to stop drilling that side and locate the pilot hole on the other and drill back. It gives a neater finish and doesn’t leave untreated wood exposed (even though the latch will cover it, it’s still exposed untreated), but I’m super particular (or picky!)
A few things…I would have fitted a centre hinge for that amount of weight and it would minimise any deflection/sag over time; I would have equalled up the space at each side of the gate when fitting it; Either drilled from both sides when fitted the latch (or used a backing board) to prevent spelching; Coated /treated panelling before fitting.
Absolutely love the content mate, learned so much from your work. I’m about to undertake replacing a frame and door on a brick shed and covered side entrance. Both are framed both sides and on top so I’m wondering if you’d still leave 20mm short on the width and 100mm short on the height for this kind of job? Again, keep up the great content.
I want to do my own like this. Question though: you didn’t say whether any of the two outer decking boards needed thinning vertically so that you clad the full width of your frame with each length of decking butting up tight to its neighbour. My frame would be 930mm wide and decking boards are typically 120mm wide, but I don’t fancy trying to cut down an 1800mm length of decking board ! Seems to me there are two options. (A) 7 off 120mm boards plus two lengths of treated 45mm wide timber, or, (B) 7 off 120mm boards with six gaps between them using 15mm spacers to ensure accuracy. Any opinions ? Option B has advantage of less cutting and I can still just about get a paint brush into the gap to re-paint cladding edges.
Since you already use Gorilla glue, have you used their epoxy glue(expanding one). Ever since I came across it I never use anything else. Brilliant for fixing creeks in stairs. Pulled carpet off. Put glue bottle in hot water to make it run better, used blunt tip syringe and squeezed the glue in every crack on stairs. Left to cure overnight and no more creeks. Happy days.
Hi Cameron, thanks for the article, great content as always! Just a quick question. I’m looking to make a gate myself this summer however not sure on how to avoid ripping down cladding pieces so the gate looks uniform. Is it just a case of measuring the opening and dividing that space by the width of the cladding, less the 10mm gaps at each end. Or am I missing something. Sorry if that’s a silly question… I’ve never made a gate before 😫 Really enjoy your vids.. looking forward to this years content 👍🏾👍🏾
I don’t like the hinge not being completely on the frame, if he’d made the top and bottom cladding overlap a bit bigger (frame a bit smaller) the hinges would have fitted onto the frame. Also, nothing in the article of how he’d space/adjust the cladding so it fits the frame – it’d be very lucky if the cladding boards were exactly the right width.
I built this gate today and it is really worth checking for square and checking your measurements again and again because when you come to finally swing it, you will thank yourself as mine is now perfect! I just say, using timbers as suggested and decking boards creates a very heavy but super sturdy gate. Don’t cheap out on the hinges!!!
I like the content you place YT and am a subscriber. Very useful. However, it would be handy if you could spend some time on fixing issues we may encounter as in this article if the original gate frame is not square and requires adjusting. As expected, you got it right first time. Unfortunately, us part timers will probably need to make an adjustment 🙂
As a fence and gate contractor, I can confirm, this is the perfect on site gate! We mortise and tenon our stiles in our workshop. We have had to use the half lap on site many times and never fails. Feather edge and tgv eliminates gapping. However decking boards do look good if you’re not after 100% privacy. Good work and keep up the good work!
Hi, loving your articles, all very well presented, descriptions are clear and helpful, and your style and articles, for me, just cut through all of the waffle and give people the confidence to tackle the projects themselves. I was wondering, when attaching the 3×2 to the wall to hold the gate, would 7.5x112mm torx frame fixing masonry screws be suitable, or should I insist on some heavier duty type as you used? I’ve used 8 of the torx screws mentioned, spacing every 2nd brick as these are what I had and didn’t necessarily want to go spend a further £25 on the dewalt ones. Cheers for any feedback 👍👍
Great article! Question. I’m not sure if you are located in a different country, but I live in the US NY where i have seasonal temperature changes would it be okay for me to attach the wood stud to a home’s stucco wall? Additional info: I can only attach it on the stucco wall on my home and not the right side which is my neighbor’s fence, I have a concrete slab, and I like to build a 6-foot High Gate. Thanks for your feedback!
How about heat and cold causing those decking slats butted up to each other to expand or contract if they are all screwed in, won’t the gate warp over time? Where as shiplap can expand/contract more easily? Just a thought, I might be wrong. Nice work otherwise. You are a natural teacher/instructor. Also how about a lock(s)?
Cheers mate, great vid as usual 🙂 I need to make a pair of gates for the driveway- what’s the best way to have them meet in the middle? I’m thinking the construction would be the same as the side entry gate but making a left and a right? Just not sure how they will stay closed…Cheers mate for any advice you can give 🙂
When you drill your 6mm holes into the 3×2, do you drill a different size hole into the brickwork for the M12 concrete anchors? I was understanding that whatever size diameter screw used to fasten the timber would require the same size masonry drill bit respectively (ie, M12 anchor requiring a 12mm drill bit), but it wouldn’t be the first time I was wrong with things lol
Well that was pleasing to watch – literally exactly the same way I had a stab at doing our front driveway pedestrian gate last year 🙂 One thing I did debate with myself was whether to have both braces going all way to the hinge side or whether to have the top brace end half way across the middle horizontal brace and then the bottom brace start at that middle point of the middle horizontal brace and continue down to the bottom hinge. I guess either way works. Aesthetically you’d end up with just one long diagonal from top to bottom using my alternative way which might be preferable to some.
If only I could trust Evolution tools. The quality control has been mad in the past: get lucky and you have a great tool for life; unlucky and it’s deadly dangerous and immediate recall when you describe what you’ve found in the box to the helpline. I’ve always been unlucky with Evolution and Erbauer. Maybe I should go for their refurbished sales