Lady Lee’s Home offers a simple and easy DIY project for establishing a driveway using recycled, crushed concrete. The driveway entrance features lavender and modern/rustic concrete pillars. Retaining walls can also serve as raised beds for gardens, but it’s important to consult with authorities before using them. Concrete retaining walls are ideal for controlling erosion, eliminating hard-to-mow slopes, or adding a planting bed.
To build a retaining wall, follow this step-by-step guide on how to build a concrete block retaining wall in just six steps. Concrete block retaining walls are ideal for holding back the ground and adding style to your yard.
To build a small retaining wall by yourself in just one day, follow this easy tutorial. The landscaping ideas are endless, and this guide will walk you through planning, construction, maintenance, and cost. CornerStone Wall Solutions provides a guide on building retaining walls for driveways and parking lots, starting with locating the surrounding studs and joists, cutting a slot, and removing any finish flooring and drywall.
For a professional installation, consult with a Bradstone Assured member. Techo-Bloc’s Skyscraper Wall is a stylish and refined commercial retaining wall that offers a sophisticated look.
📹 Easily build 2 driveway pillars for less than $250
Can you build a wall directly on concrete?
The statement is accurate when the wall is a low single-brick thick wall, 2 feet in height, comprising a 1/2 foot thick concrete slab on a well-drained base. Conversely, if the wall is a high wall, 8 feet in height, comprising three bricks and a 4 inch thick slab on a poor base, the statement is also accurate.
What can I use instead of a retaining wall?
Wooden timber panels are a popular retaining wall option due to their modular design and outdoor aesthetic appeal. Precast concrete is a long-lasting alternative to natural stone and brick, lasting up to 50 years without significant maintenance. Although initially more expensive, it comes in various colors and takes less time to set up due to its sectional nature. Both options are popular in natural landscaping designs due to their aesthetic appeal.
What is the cheapest way to build a 4 foot retaining wall?
Material costs for retaining walls can range from $5 to $200 per square foot, with vinyl being the cheapest option. Natural stone and steel are the most expensive, while concrete blocks offer a mid-range price point with good durability. Building smaller retaining walls yourself can save $15 to $50 per square foot, resulting in $600 to $2, 000 in savings. However, the costs of material delivery or renting a vehicle might offset these savings. Professional masons are recommended for more complex walls, and a local structural engineer is needed for taller walls.
What is the simplest type of retaining wall?
Gravity retaining walls are the simplest and earliest recorded type of retaining wall, built from materials like concrete, masonry, brick, blocks, or mass cast-in-situ concrete. These hard-wearing structures rely on their large weight to resist lateral earth pressure from the soil behind them, preventing toppling and sliding. They are designed to be wider at their base and sloped faces, making them easy to build and suitable for retained heights up to about 3m.
However, they are not suitable for retained heights above 3m, as they may take up too much space and become too heavy for the ground below, leading to bearing capacity failure and soil retention issues.
Can you build a retaining wall yourself?
Concrete retaining wall blocks less than 3 feet tall can be built by do-it-yourselfers, but taller ones require professional help. Knowledge and experience are required, and local building codes should be researched for erosion and runoff concerns. The guide provides instructions and materials for specialized concrete blocks, which take 20-30 hours. Before installation, decide whether to build the structure or hire someone else. If runoff is a problem, install a perforated drain pipe behind the retaining wall before backfilling.
What is the cheapest facade system?
Aluminum, wood, and vinyl siding are popular among builders and contractors due to their low cost per square foot. However, when estimating total project costs, it’s crucial to consider factors such as installation, durability, and maintenance. Installation costs on Home Advisor may vary depending on location and installation difficulty. The most durable exterior siding materials include engineered wood, fiber cement, steel, brick, and stucco.
Additionally, using cheaper and less durable materials may save on materials and installation costs but also require more maintenance to upkeep. Therefore, when choosing the best house siding for the money, it’s essential to consider factors such as installation, durability, and maintenance.
What material do you use for exterior walls?
Common exterior finishing materials include metal lath for portland cement, gypsum plaster, stucco, stone reinforcement, and ceramic tile. Expansion joints are used to attach parallel panels, allowing the final finish to naturally expand and contract without cracking. Drip flashing is used for stucco and stone veneer to allow moisture to escape the wall. Siding is the final layout on many buildings and comes in seven main types: Natural Stone Veneer, Vinyl/PVC, Fiber Cement, Composite, Brick, Wood, and Stucco.
Natural Stone Veneer is durable but heavy and expensive, while Vinyl/PVC is inexpensive and lightweight. Fiber Cement is durable but heavy and expensive, and Composite is engineered wood siding. Brick is low-maintenance but heavy and expensive, while Wood is durable but prone to pest and water damage.
How to build an outdoor wall?
The process of building a garden involves several steps, including digging out the foundation, laying the foundation, setting the string level, preparing the mortar, building the first course, building the wall, pointing the joints, and adding coping stones. It is crucial to wear appropriate safety protection, such as protective gloves and long sleeves, as wet mortar can burn exposed skin. Before starting the project, read our advice to ensure you are fully prepared with everything needed to complete your perfect garden.
What is the cheapest way to build an external wall?
Retaining walls are outdoor landscaping features that secure or retain soil, preventing erosion. They are common along interstate highways and residential landscaping, where driveways or other features have been cut into a hillside. Retaining walls can be built from stone, formed concrete, cement blocks, or rot-resistant wood, like pressure-treated timbers. The least expensive ways to build a retaining wall include landscaping timbers, natural stones, concrete blocks, interlocking concrete blocks, poured concrete, and railroad ties.
Landscape timbers are lower-grade lumber used for their strength, not their appearance, and are often used by DIYers to install small retaining walls (less than 36″ tall). These retaining walls can be part of an erosion prevention system when combined with vegetation, drains, and other landscaping features.
What is the easiest DIY retaining wall?
The simplest type of retaining wall is built using concrete blocks or large pavers, which can be stacked closely together. These walls are practical landscape features that provide stability in sloping surfaces and allow for enhanced landscape upgrades like driveways and walkways. Although installing a retaining wall can be complex and expensive, there are budget-friendly options available. Materials like concrete, stone, or wood can be used, with variations including cinderblocks, bricks, pavers, solid stone like granite cobblestones, or flat pieces of river rock like shale or slate. A veneer of stone or render can also be added to a concrete retaining wall.
What is the cheapest material for exterior walls?
The cost of siding material is a crucial factor when choosing a siding for your home. Vinyl siding is often the least expensive option, costing as low as $2 per square foot. However, it’s important to balance the cost with the desired aesthetics. Choosing a slightly more expensive but lower maintenance siding may save you money in the long run. The installation process is another important factor to consider.
Different materials have different installation processes and difficulties, and some types may require more maintenance throughout their lifetime. Various siding options are available to choose from, each with its own advantages and disadvantages.
📹 How To Install A Permeable Gravel Driveway Grid System
This DIY permeable driveway tutorial is all about how to install permeable driveway grid system from start to finish. This DIY gravel …
Can you recommend the best way to install the gates? I am in Canada where we have winter so would like to know what power gate system you installed and where you found the best information to build that gate system. I have the same gates as you 14 foot – 2 – 7 foot gates. If you were going to do it again, would you scale to a more heavy post for your gates?
People do not understand how to use sonatubes. It’s to hold the concrete above the hole not in the hole. So you can have a raised footing. If you drill a hole and drop the tube in there is space around the tube that will have to be backfilled and you will never get the compaction back to even 90%. The hole should be filled with concrete and the tube should only be a few inches into the hole and the rest outside
I would recommend as you prepared the site having at a minimum 8″ sock fabric Drain in the center of drive. You could clearly see from street view from front to rest of drive a low elevation that will trap water that will flow under house. Water must be redirected away from house at all cost to avoid structural damage to foundation. I would highly recommend renting a professional lazer on tripod. I realize you are attempting to teach others, but the expense you put in this project will be worth it. I have done excavation work many years and water can be enemy number one.
You did a really good job for a DIY’er. One thing you sgouldce done is kicked your grade up against ghe house. You didnt fix the drainage issue. I cant remember what code is exactly, but its something like your grade should fall 4″ away from the house in the first 5′. Also. The grade you have is going to allow water to pool below your rock up against the foundation, and if they have a basement thats no bueno. Othef than that you did well. You could use the machine far more than you did to make the job easier. It just takes time in the seat to figure it all out
Use to do subdivision development work many years ago, the fabric we laid down was to prevent the gravel from sinking into the soil and allowing water to pass through… the grid systems made similar to pavers allow grass to grow, a desirable attribute of that system is the ability to drive in the yard without leaving ruts
How is the drainage? I would think a graduated base material like that would actually not allow too much water through or at least not allow it through quickly. I am a civil contractor and all systems like this that I have looked at have used a coarse material without fines. Also, for aggregate, we add 10% for material loss when moving from a stockpile and 25% for compaction. The move going backwards with the bucket is called back dragging, or back blading, backhoes actually have a float feature to make this easier. Nice work.
The weed barrier will keep dirt from coming up as long as the rocks don’t migrate down thru it, making holes. However, if you ever excavate above such a weed barrier that has been in place for years, you will find it full of dirt. The dirt comes in as dust and decomposing plant matter, and water carries it down into the rock layers. A tiny amoutn of dirt allows plant growth and even infinitesimal plants hold more dust and have roots that will decompose leading to more dirt and the cycle continues. This is just how nature works. Most of the strength of the driveway grid comes from the rock fill so you need to keep it covered with rock or it will break down. I’m wondering about rather the opposite approach to this article for my driveway. I’m thinking a couple of lines of pavers for regular wheel traffic, and widely spaced pavers between and outside of those lines for a generous width driveway. Then I’d intentionally encourage grass to grow between the pavers. The first challenge is keeping the pavers from migrating. Then also I have very level property so another challenge is to discourage pooling (and resulting softening) on the drive so it needs to be built up. Final consideration is the drive needs to support several trips per year of heavy vehicles common to a small farm such as loaded hay trucks and gooseneck trailers with up to 16 tons or so cattle (or horses like my neighbors).
I like the geo grid stystem it looks like a inexpensive alternative to asphalt or concrete do u know if they manufacture the necessary components to construct curves so it could be used for small private roads. I’m a retired concrete and asphalt contractor but don’t worry I’m not trying to critique the work . I do have one question, if I was seeing the article right it looks like ur grade was falling back towards ur garage from the street . And if I am correct unless there is some type of drainage stystem u risk compromising the integrity of the project over time. Water seeks the path of least resistance.
Love this project!!! Suggestion: If you get weeds or vegetation growing up through the rocks, get a pump sprayer and in early spring fill with with water, vinegar and dawn dish soap. You can look pet friendly weed killer up and it will give you the exact measurements for the size sprayer you have. Then on a sunny morning spray the areas that are showing growth and by the end of the day they are almost dead. The next day they should be pretty flattened. Make sure you are going to get rain the day you spray or the day after. And tough give them an extra spray the next day. Very gentle on animals and mother earth. Cheers!
I made the same set up using a roof tear off (shingles) and 8/10 screened gravel. I saved $400 fee the roofer wanted for taking the piles to the landfill and spent that on a delivery of gravel. I turned 2 swampy areas into great pathways that have stayed soilid for 30+ years now. I did err by adding some gravel fines to one path thinking I wanted it to be tighter and quieter but it instantly turned into a bed for weed seeds! Every year I have to scrape off the spring growth on that one but it still has never sunk into the swampy condition I needed fixed. If I were laying a driveway on country property I would make it from 6 inches shingles (packed) and 4 inches of 8-10 gravel topping!
I don’t like that type of gravel to be a driveway but it does look good right now. I find even with the compacted rocks they will stick to your soles and get everywhere: house, shop, car, etc… Also curious if you’ll do a timelapse on this in one to five years on how it has held up to the test of time as far as maintenance, appearance, weeds, etc. It seems like a LOT of work although I suppose a traditional concrete driveway also takes a lot of time/work/prep.
This grid system looks very nice and would be awesome for our driveway….of course our driveway is also hundreds of feet long so would take many of these panels….so guess we had better start saving up for a future project with them. We are LONG ways away from 100k ourselves and know it takes a VERY long time to get to that point. Great content bud….everything turned out amazing.
Obviously you have to work to the clients desires and budget, but i think garden beds on the sides where the concrete tubes are, a nice straight edge, and then a sealed asphalt drive would have been much nice looking. even swapping out the asphalt for this gravel system would still be nicer than gravel to the fence and to the house. Anyway, maybe it all comes together with the carport on the next one. Cheers.
Serious question: It appears that your lot is below the level of the street. How is water controlled/drained during heavy rainfall? With a wall to the right of the drive, a fence at the back, and your home on the left, there appears to be nowhere for the rain to go. Even if the property behind the fence continues to slope away from the road, I can’t see a way for positive drainage to occur without problems.
Given you like to make content and give advice, please talk to pros, go check out their work that is 10, 20, 30 years old. If its not standing proud without maybe a minor issues at most, their advice isnt worth the air it took to deliver it. For a driveway, you should have gone down 24″ at a minimum. Based on the slope you should have re sloped the area to control water, added drainage as a french drain. You should have done several more layers of fabric. Your posts you did not address frost line which so many get wrong, to compound the issue you didnt flare the bottom of your posts to ensure they stay in place. If your going to give advise like you are, getting your facts right is paramount. Also where is your engineering evaluation and design? For this, being wrong here will have massive complications and consequences.
very interesting, but have you ever thought about using USED TIRES instead of the grid system… difference is you prep the same, except instead of putting the grid system down.. you put the used car tires down. cut the side walls of the tire out lay the tires down, screw the tires together then pour lose crushed gravel down into and over the tires the tires keep the gravel in place, have the gravel say 1 to 2 inches above the tires, then pour the concrete over the whole thing, tires and crushed gravel by at least 2 or 3 inches or however much you want.. very,very strong, you can drive a dump truck fully loaded on it with no problem…the process is called mechanical concrete… if you think the tire is too thick you can always just cut the tire in half, make 2 tires out of 1 tire then screw them together side by side….just another way of looking at something and getting ride of used tires, doing some good to get rid of old tires you can also compact the gravel over the tires as well and not worry about the tires moving at all…. JM2C…. JUST MY 2 CENTS….another way to have a very strong driveway… also works out in the country without putting cement / concrete over the top, just the crushed gravel down, the tires keep the gravel in place for years and the water gets to drain away, you will never have any POT HOLES by using the tires method… again JMHO… just my humble opinion… great vid, enjoyed it…
This was super useful, thanks for the article. Would you recommend a paver grid system for non load-bearing applications, like edging or patios? It feels overkill, but I’m thinking maybe it’d be a good way to improve the rigidity of a permeable bedding I want to put tile pedestals on top of. Either way, this stuff’s going on my eventual driveway project, lol.
I installed this in my front yard close to my driveway. this way, I don’t have to worry about cars sinking when we have cars parked on our lawn. it’s been eight years since the installation and it’s still doing well. Recently, I’ve been thinking about replacing my concrete driveway to this grid system
Sorry to tell you (from personal experience) that grassy weeds will establish themselves in your rock/gravel over time. This is because airborne dust will settle in the rock and eventually become soil. In fact, even before sufficient dust accumulates some grasses will germinate on top of the fabric and send micro roots through the fabric! This organic material will accelerate the accumulation of dust and dirt, as well as create even more soil on top of the fabric as it breaks down seasonally. If you’ve ever hiked along the timberline (as I did in my youth, so many years ago), you see this soil creation in action on bare rock. Between the water creating cracks in the granite during countless freeze cycles, airborne dust settling, and root hairs growing in the cracks, soil is created and meadows are formed.
MIX 610 LIMESTONE (dust) into that gravel and you’ve got a concrete driveway–it’s heavy but it’s cheap (at least in our area). In clay or sandy loam ground base 610 keeps the gravel from sinking out of sight as rain & driving on it over time will sink the small gravels without the bonding of 610 added to it. No need for expensive weed cloth layering and it saves time not having to roll out & tack down the landscape fabric.
The roadway asphalt edge has already failed. Cracking is very evident there. One might consider a nice deep and wide strip of reinforced concrete at the beginning of the driveway would make an effective interface between the roadway and driveway. That would minimize degradation of both the roadway and driveway.
You are good at explaining things in a way that is easy to understand without getting boring. The only thing I would add is that I never saw you checking any grade to make sure you had positive drainage. If you don’t plan for where you want water to go then it will go wherever it wants and it’s where you dont want it.
the fabric under the gravel stops the gravel from ever “settling” i put it under my driveway and it always seems loose on top, i thing because the dirt doesn’t come up from underneath to lock in the gravel. the only thing i found that helps is putting pea gravel on top of 57 stone to help lock it in. sand helps too – if you can get it cheap
Weed barrier does jack all… if you applied crushed aggregate and then compacted it, weeds won’t be growing up through that- weeds will STILL grow however, this will be surface level ie seeds that have landed on top and slowly settled inbetween NOTHING will prevent weeds from growing. Where there are fine cracks, weeds will find a way.
Weed barrier doesn’t prevent weeds if you put rocks on top of it. It only works if that’s all you got at the top. What will happen is dirt will accumulate on top and between the rocks, the weeds will germinate, their roots will grow through the weed barrier, and the weeds will be even tougher to pull out. How do I know? I watched a similar article several years ago suggesting the same thing and I unfortunately took that advice when I did my patio. I see this has been viewed over 1M so I foresee lots of people suffering from weeds from this bad advice in the future.
Its a bit hard to tell based on the article, but just for anyone perusal; this size plate compactor, should not exceed 2″ of base material at one time. It just doesn’t have enough compaction force beyond that. So if you are doing 3-4″, you will need to compact 2″ at a time, otherwise there’s a pretty big risk for settling over time.
You are missing a great opportunity in the last step. Rather than use the small gravel in the grid, use recycled asphalt that has been processed and classified into smaller bits, it’s cheap and this grid will make it imperious to it’s common use and decay from normal use, especially on sloped driveways.
Thanks for the article. I do not see vodoland offering a 35 square foot package. Amazon UK had these types all over the place, but seems impossible in the USA to get some of this base for a small shed, unless you want to pay 150 bucks. Edit- the 35 square foot package is 150 bucks. LMAO, who tf is going to spend 150 bucks for a 6X5 pad for a shed. UK amazon has these in various names for like 60 pounds.
Great vid, that seems like a proper job well done! BUT….what is that driveway about 30’x100′? You’d need 3,000 sq.ft. of stuff. The link to that grid product tells me you’d need $9,000 of driveway grids, $800 for landscape fabric, 37 cu. yds. of gravel, say another $2,000 plus 2 days of equipment rentals. Cha ching, thats a $12k gravel driveway!
The problem I would anticipate with a crushed rock driveway, would be areas that are loosened up and made uneven, if you were to turn the wheels on your car/truck hard one way or the other while sitting still or slowly moving. The tires will dig up the gravel. Therefore requiring constant maintenance. Would landscape glue provide any resistance to this type of problem? Another recommendation would be to use pavers around the border of the grid system you put down, just for aesthetic purposes. It provides a nice sharp edge and border to the driveway. Excellent website – I just subscribed! 🙂
If youre using a bucket to dump material throttle down and youll be more accurate and get your skill up faster. A pro will just dump it in a perfect inch or two layer reguardless thw size of the bucket. You arent that operator and plan on a lot of time there. 😊 A second person running a dump trailer control while someone drives is thw best DYI.
Vodaland grid at $2.50 to over $3.50 a sq. ft. plus gravel. In this area concrete is cheaper, but not permeable which is important. I use a geotextile & gravel in 2′-X wide strips through the field of 3-1/2″ to 5″ pour and steel meshed and printed colored concrete and at the sides for runoff control and permeability.
Fastest easiest way, put down minimum 3 mill dark black plastic. Cover with a couple inches of gravel and compact .. add stone dust or similar very small size sand etc .. compact again … Should be good for light weight vehicles .. no weeds .. can add polymetric sand if you want .. Way cheaper than any other method. 😂😂
Carefully done project with much care. In the top layer, I prefer a rock with no fines. Those fines get tracked into buildings and vehicles. I don’t mind a loose layer like pea gravel or a small red granite. In my shop apron I will use a larger grid grate aperture to accommodate a larger diameter rock in the top layer which will have less tendency to move by foot, tire, or water.
I installed a hidden driveway, just a strip for each tire, with grass in the middle. I found that my county requires “an impenetrable surface” for all driveways, from reports they were going around citing homeowners. That is most of the RV side driveways in my neighborhood. In California, where they are supposed to encourage keeping rainwater on the property rather than flowing into the street gutter.
If you’ve done construction, you are pulling your hair out…. comrade, you should just use the bobcat for everything…. and speed up. and work on precision. forget about not hammer the stakes accurately, Comrade…. you couldve finished the geotextile with a pourable rubber and then cut it. but fine work. hope its the pyramids for you. you have to take pride in the work you do.
The idea seems very reasonable and one I have made a mental note. I’m more concerned about the drainage of the yard. To me, everything is draining backwards into the buildings, mainly because the driveway is uphill. I’d be raising the level of the house and garage and building the height of the land up along with a decent land drainage.
3:05 Permanent permeable pathways pave the path for your penchant for pronouncing the “P”. You possess a particular proclivity for producing perfect plosives, and your pronunciation is positively pleasing . Your passion for “P” is palpable, your pride and proficiency plainly perceivable. Please proceed to propogate puns, pauses, and prolific placement of pavement and plosives! 🎉 🤓
Ever worried your gravel driveway was too environmentally friendly? Tired of having to take your lazy butt outside 30 minutes out of your afternoon twice a year to spray your gravel with vinegar to ensure it doesn’t grow weeds? Well look no further than this plastic grid that won’t stop weeds but will make sure your particular plot of lands groundwater will be laced with leeched PFAs and phalates for centuries to come 😂 a how to guide
you don’t need weed barrier if you maintain your drive way with a drag. geo-grid is designed for major roads such as county roads that have to go into marsh wet areas and it is expensive….more expensive than you need. also where there is water plants will find a way. tree seeds will wreck your geogrid driveway in about a decade. just stick with yearly maintenance.
I feel like that plastic grid is unnecessary, the incline clearly doesn’t have too much washout and there was already a thick layer of gravel you were building over, it is unlikely that the fresh gravel would settle or move latterally that much. I admit I don’t know how much maintenance this gravel lot has had over the years, and I do think the new driveway looks quite nice, just seems like the plastic was unnecesary and may make future projects or maintenance a pain, the fabric probably was the most important part anyway.
Obviously an advertisement for a product that creates way too much unecessary work and expense. I came up in a grading/excavating family and we did dozens of similar projects and we simply graded the area and added road base which doesn’t need to be compacted. As for weeds, the homeowner would spray for them if necessary.
I think that’s a 36″ machine not 30″ wide. That would be a very small mini skid haha. The 36″ is already the narrow track version of the SK800. Great machine I use them all the time. I always use woven fabric to separate soils from aggregates. And as others have said weeds will come. I think soil / aggregate separation is a more accurate description vs. calling it a weed barrier. Is there a reason you chose non woven? The woven is much cheaper too … like $200 for a 12’x300’ roll.
With a torch and hot tar you can repair the damage you did to the edge of the asphalt. Also, I’d recommend spraying herbicide before putting the fabric down. You’re also going to have to spray herbicide on the driveway on a regular basis if you want to prevent weeds from groing on the surface. I would also recommend a concrete transition between the stone and the asphalt as this will prevent stone shift from being a cause of the asphalt failure. As far as driving those rebars, try running the majority of the length in with a heavy hammer drill and ground rod driver attachment. It’ll save you a lot of effort.
You don’t really want to place the extra gravel. The idea of the gridlock system is for the gravel to fully reach the top of the grid but no further. In that way there will be no potential loose gravel. Also, I’d say the top of the existing old subgrade should have been removed and replaced with the same gravel. And last but no least, drainage problem are likely to continue. The grade seems to slope down toward the back of the driveway. Since no drainage improvements were accomplished, the rain runnof from the street will continue and water will be ponding at the back, eventualy weakening the subgrade. Before misleading people, please read a little and inform yourself from reliable sources. Internet brings tons of trash info.
I’d be more worried at the level of the gravel driveway against your buildings – looks like you will breach the damp course – assuming building and damp course is the same as UK. I’d also be looking to improve the drainage in the lower areas, ie. To prevent it draining down to the building foundations.
I would have thought that the footer would stand above grade. Keep the post, if wood, out of standing water. I also thought that you’re getting really high up on your house. Looks like when you’re laying the fabric barrier that what ever gravel you add is going to be flush/touching the siding of the house. I’m sure it would have been a greater expense but digging down 6 inches and then regrading to the proper height would have been best. All that being said …. nice job at th end … Looks awesome!
Please, I am not trolling. I am really trying to understand the benefits of this. In the beginning weed issue was mentioned, but as best I know, weeds will eventually settle in any crevice anyway, so I trust they can take over the new gravel as well. I wonder how long the moisture barrier will last. After all it is plastic and may get brittle over time and combined with heavy use? What am I missing?
I have a 300 by 14 foot Driveway With a perpendicular extension Of 90 feet to the house 20 feet wide The whole driveway was I usually done in 21A Crush line And I put a One a quarter inch Crush align on top of that Period Period The driveway is periodically raked With a landscaping rake On my tractor With no problems Period would it be said You think putting that we barrier down One weeds from that growth Think again Period Driveway Is heard is concrete And you still get grass and wheat growing Through the stone In the compacted line Unbelievable You have to get the pH level in this driveway correct to keep the Weeds out Period The barrier It’s such a silly thing And waste the money in my opinion
Excellent DIY instructional article! Superb article shooting, great editing, time lapse didn’t produce queasiness, no irritating music, and mistakes or ways you might have done it better/easier were all covered. With this article, anyone can make a commercial grade crushed rock car park. Kudos! You are far ahead of the YouTube crowd with your articles.
If you use compactable gravel with different sized particles, it will stabilize itself after compaction. This means that you do not need a stabilizing grid. You only use this grid if you are using non-compactable gravel, e.g. round gravel of the same size. Anyway, you did a great job!!!. I like it much more than the American habit of pouring tons of concrete, which makes your driveway look like an airfield.