This article provides 11 ways to convert a detached garage into a garden room, covering planning, design, cost, and benefits. The garage interior can be converted into a garden space for those with no garden or small outdoor space. Vertical planters can be placed inside the garage, and the entire garage can be converted or set aside for the garden. The garden can range from small plants on shelves to large grow beds and lights.
To create a DIY greenhouse in your garage, follow step-by-step instructions, materials needed, and tips for successful construction. If your current garage is too small or in poor condition, consider having a new custom garage built by Danley’s. To make your garage an indoor-outdoor space, replace the garage door with screens or glass doors and fill the inside with stylish outdoor furniture.
Creating a beautiful garage garden requires planning the layout of the new garage within your lot, the size, shape, and look of the garage, and the necessary materials. Pinterest offers inspiration for garage in garden ideas, including building a cabin in the garden using insulated 4×2 timber frame walls, plasterboard inside, and osb with membrane buttons and cladding outside. Maintaining a stable climate in the garage is crucial, and using a space heater or solar lamps can help control the temperature.
📹 How to Organize a Garage (w/ Monica from The Weekender)
A garage can be either a junk magnet or a storage haven. Monica Mangin from The Weekender shares tips on how to achieve the …
Can plants survive in a room without windows?
The cultivation of plants in windowless rooms with artificial lighting can present a significant challenge. However, this can be achieved with the use of shade-tolerant plants, including snake plants, Chinese evergreens, pothos, spider plants, and Boston ferns. Hortology offers a comprehensive selection of shade-tolerant indoor plants.
Can you legally live in a garage UK?
It is not typically necessary to obtain planning permission for the conversion of a detached garage into living accommodation, provided that the work is limited to the internal space and does not involve an enlargement of the building. The structure in question must be utilized for a purpose that is related to the enjoyment of the existing dwelling house. Nevertheless, the conversion of a detached garage into an annexe or separate living accommodation may necessitate the submission of a planning application.
What is the most cost-effective garage design?
Post-frame construction is a cost-effective and customizable building method for garages, offering quality resources and customizable properties. Unlike garage kits, which may not provide the same quality and customization, post-frame garages can be customized to suit individual needs. By selecting windows, siding, roofing, and doors, post-frame manufacturers can create a building that is both beautiful and cost-effective. Standard Supply and Lumber offers post-frame construction materials at their West Michigan locations, ensuring a timely and budget-friendly completion of your garage project.
To learn more about their post-frame construction options, visit their West Michigan locations or contact them online. By choosing Standard Supply and Lumber, you can create a garage that you’re proud of, while still saving time and money on the construction process.
What is the cheapest material to build a garage?
Stainless steel garage kits with manual doors and no insulation are the most affordable and fastest to build. Detached garages with matching siding, trim, and roofing cost more. If adding or updating electrical to your detached garage, hire an electrician for automatic door openers, lighting, or security systems. A plumber can install wet features like drains, hoses, or work-station sinks. Attaching a garage to your home costs an average of $26, 000, but can range from $10, 000 to $43, 000 depending on the number of cars and livable space.
Can I turn my garage into a greenhouse?
In just a few weeks, you can transform an underutilized area into a thriving greenhouse. Converting an existing garage into a greenhouse is a cost-effective and easy way to create an unlimited supply of fresh herbs, greens, onions, and tomatoes. The size of the garage is crucial, as it allows plants to grow to their full size and provides ample space for harvesting. Additionally, the south side of the garage should be reconfigured to let in the most sun, while the north and east walls should be left intact if in good shape. This simple and cost-effective greenhouse project can provide a year-round supply of fresh produce.
How do you keep plants warm in an unheated garage?
To grow plants in winter, you can use adequate heating, such as a space heater or solar lamps, to keep the garage warm enough for plants to thrive. Keep the room above freezing to ensure sufficient light and water for plants. If starting with seedlings, use clear plastic sheets to create a greenhouse effect, keeping plants warm and enabling delicate seeds to thrive. Building your garden involves researching the best plants for your region and climate, as it’s essential to avoid plants dying on you. By following these steps, you can successfully grow plants in winter without worrying about them dying.
How do you set up a garage garden?
To create an attractive garage garden, consider various methods such as brightly painted shelving units, bench seating, raised beds, pegboards, pot racks, large planter pots, lighting, sheeting, tool storage, and table coverings. These elements can enhance accessibility and beauty of the garden. A greenhouse effect can be achieved by hanging plastic sheeting, dividing the garage into sections to keep plants warm and moist. Additionally, a large planter pot can be a great spot for collecting seeds, bulbs, and tools. By incorporating these elements, you can create a pleasant atmosphere in your garage garden.
Can I replace my garage with a garden room?
A garage conversion can be a cost-effective way to add a garden room extension, especially if your garage is going to waste. With over 100 home experts, this guide provides all the tools you need to transform your forgotten garage into a garden room heaven. It covers the process, whether your garage is suitable for a garden room conversion, whether planning permission is needed, how to ensure proper insulation, other considerations, finding the right fittings and furniture, the cost of converting a garage into a garden room, whether a garage conversion will increase your home’s value, and whether it is worth converting your garage or demolishing and replacing it with a new build. If your garage is more like a storage area filled with boxes, cartons, and rusty old bicycles, converting it into a beautiful garden room is the perfect solution.
How to build a garage cheaply?
Pole-style post frame construction is a cost-effective and efficient way to build a garage. These storage buildings, also known as post-frame buildings or pole barns, are constructed using laminated wood poles as the framework. These poles provide stability and support for the garage during heavy snowfall or windy conditions. Metal panels are commonly used for roofs, but shingles can be used to complement the house’s design.
One of the main benefits of building a pole garage is its inexpensive or free foundation. Most homeowners will pay 10-15% of the overall garage foundation cost. The process doesn’t require a concrete foundation, but for stability, the poles must be buried in the ground. However, some homeowners may opt to set one up.
Can plants survive in the garage?
On National Houseplant Appreciation Day, explore ten houseplants that can thrive in garages, even without the cozy sunlight of a living room. One such plant is the Spider Plant (Chlorophytum comosum), which thrives in low-light conditions and adds elegance to your space. Hang it in a corner and watch its long, arching leaves add a touch of elegance. Water moderately, and your spider plant will happily propagate baby spiderettes for you to share with friends. By incorporating these plants into your garage, you can create a green haven that’s perfect for your garage’s needs.
Can I build a garage in my front garden in the UK?
Building a garage in your front garden in England may not require planning permission, as it is not allowed under Permitted Development Rights. However, you may still be able to build a garage, but you will need to obtain planning permission before starting work. This involves submitting a planning application to your Local Council, which will consider factors such as the design and layout of the garage and any impacts on neighboring properties.
Cedar Planning offers a low-cost fixed fee service for garage planning applications, and it is crucial to ensure that your garage meets the criteria set out by permitted development rights, including height and size restrictions.
📹 How to Build Garage Shelving – Easy, Cheap and Fast!
Garage shelving has never been easier or faster to build! Ana White’s original build in place garage shelving is clever, fast and …
OK but I need a solution for kids battery operated cars/quads we have those and trikes and a small two car garage, that we need to still fit our cars into since we are in the Midwest. Right now we keep having to stack them on top of each other which is a pain everytime they want to use one cause they are bulky and not the lightest.
Thanks for a nice, easy to listen and watch article. Soooo much nicer than loud music getting in the way and not full of personal conversation. One tip for future viewers – you can increase the load bearing capacity by adding 2×4 legs under each shelf, behind the outside legs and against the wall, down to the floor. That way the screws aren’t supporting all the weight in shear.
Good DIY tip. One additional thought: I know you would have to see it to believe it, but I can tell you from experience that it is possible that VERY heavy loads could actually sheer the screws that hold the shelves to the uprights over time. So if you think you might load the shelves really heavily, consider this simple addition: Cut 2×4 blocks to fit on the inside of the uprights, right under the horizontal 2×4’s, sizing them to fit tightly from floor to the first horizontal, from first to second horizontal, etc. This way all the loads are transferred directly to the floor, rather than the screws. (Don’t misunderstand: my caution pertains only to very heavy loads, such as engine blocks, densely packed bulk fasteners, etc. The construction as shown in the article is no doubt adequate for most DIYers’ purposes. Also, in lieu of blocking, you could guard against sheer by using heavy duty deck fasteners (such as GRK brand) for the connection of outer horizontals to uprights.)
I am a handyman by trade and I was in need of shelving myself in my tiny single car garage workshop so I needed to make more storage space. This worked like a charm. I had Home Depot cut my 4×8 sheets of plywood in half when I purchased them and I spent a few hours building a set of these shelves this afternoon by myself. One tip that may be helpful is that I used a laser level which saved me time on drawing my lines. Great tutorial, thanks for sharing!
I’ve built thousands of feet of this in storage containers (connexs) and garages/sheds over the last 20 years. I build it heavier, with vertical bracing inside the uprights as others have suggested. My uprights are 4’ on center and my horizontal runners are 2×6 and then 3/4″ plywood. You could drive a truck on them. I build heavier to start, because who knows how the use may change over the years. One other thing I do is make the outside 1/4″ higher so anything round will not have a tendency to roll off.
BONUS HACK—-cut 2 spacers from 2x4s. The length will be the desired height of the shelves (less the 2″ width of the spacer board). So if you want 24″ high shelves, the spacers would be 22″. Put the spacers upright on the floor running up the wall and brace the first 2×4 on it. Level and secure the 2×4. Repeat for the 2nd and 3rd wall boards. From that point forward the spacers can be used to set all the horizontal surfaces. I do a lot of work alone and using spacers to prop one end of a board is like having an assistant. Clamps are also very helpful on projects like this.
Thank you so much for your article. After perusal your article it looks so easy I decided to follow your instructions and first time of my life I ever built shelves. It was so easy to do. Now I think I am going to build outdoor sectionals sofa that you have posted in YouTube. Again thank you so much for your help!
I built these on a 24′ x 12′ garage wall and they went up very easily they are very strong and look great In one of the shelving bays I built in a locker for garden tools. I also built in an area to hang jackets. I also enclosed a stand-up freezer and a gun safe. The shelves go all the way to the ceiling and were designed to hold totes that i can get at COSTCO so everything is now neatly stored and labeled. Now I am designing the opposite wall that will incorporate my work bench, tool chest, generator and air compressor. The nice part of this design is that it is extremely flexible and can be customized to fit just about anything you have in the garage.
Is it really that hard for some people to just say thank you? For those hell bent on level you can use shims I doubt the level would be that off that things are just rolling off the shelves. But that’s just me. Its an informative article that can be used as is or modified to work for your space and if it doesn’t work for you then no harm no foul. No need to be disparaging.Thanks Ana I am building one right now.
Love this idea with one word of caution. If your garage has any sort of a slope, this system will not be level once you pull the 2nd side from the first. Do a quick check to see if your grade remains level over a 2 foot span (if your shelves are to be 2 feet deep). You can accommodate for the slope if you place your second horizontal 2×4 onto the first horizontal 2×4 and then adjust its height to be a bit higher than the first horizontal 2×4. Also ensure to cut the support 2×4’s to be a bit higher as well to accommodate for the slope. Just use a 4 foot level and measure for level on your support 2×4’s when they are an appropriate distance from the wall. Overall, this article is a great tutorial!
I made the same style for my garage and used 2×3’s. I built mine with a 24″ clearance from the floor to the 1st shelve then 16 inch vertical spacing for the remainder. For the average garage, you should get five shelves, with the final shelf shy of 15″. Total cost was around $150. This included the dry wall screws and lunch for my brother. Followed the design for the storage shed.
Hi Ana. I live in the north east of England and have just spent the day following your plans for garage shelving. Need to finish tomorrow. Your ideas are excellent and I can’t wait to get the job done and Tidy the mess in my garage. You’re right.. The shelving is really strong and will accommodate lots of gear. Hope your home is coming along too! You live in a fabulous part of the world! Rob…
I built these shelves and they could hold a car on them! Super easy and super strong. I had a window on that wall and just worked with what I had. I love the idea of repeating the first shelves and “copying” it for the front of the shelves. Saved a ton of time. I bought a Kreg Jig for the project and it made it easy. I’ve now built a work bench with it with the same idea attaching it to the wall. Thanks!
I don’t know if you all check comments on 5 year old articles but this article for garage storage shelves is brilliant. I used this idea to build my own shelves and am no more than a carpenter than Gordon Ramsey is a brain surgeon. I had the shelves up in a matter of hours and I did it all by my self with a little help from my beautiful wife holding the frame for about 5 minutes. My son loves climbing on them. They are rugged and very strong! Thank you for creating this article!
I made similar shelves, but used a different approach. I cut the plywood into 2’x8′ pieces, then attached the 2x4s around the perimeter, and one up the center, to make a type of platform. Then I removed one of the long pieces and attached that to the wall. With help, put the shelf back onto the 2×4, screwed it back onto the 2×4 (attaching it, removing it, then re-attaching it made this step easier). I clamped a vertical 2×4 to the front to hold it in place while I attached the remaining shelves, then permanently attached the front vertical 2x4s. So, same product, just a different process. Not to say one way is better than another, but my method seems better-suited for 2x4s that might be warped. I noticed the cheap wall stud 2x4s from Home Depot were far more warped than those from Lowe’s.
Several years ago, I built similiar shelves on my garage side walls. However, I raised them up five feet off the ground so that I could still easily park two cars in my garage and still open all the car doors easily regardless of where the cars were parked. The floor shelves shown in thiis article, although practical, limit the width of your garage especially when two cas are being parked inside.
I’ve been using this method for years…. works great ! As for load, the shelves are really heavy duty whether using OSB or plywood. I.normally use 4×8 sheets ripped 16″ or 24″ depending on the shelf width. I have normally used two #8 screws at the front posts as shown in the article. For even heavier loads you could use 2×6 horizontal members with three screws at each post or simply use more posts set closer together. Great system
Nice but with a 65 SS impala that’s 219″ long frome bumper to bumper not much room behind the vehicle im hanging some frome the selling downwards for room for parts and a 4 speed fan to blow the hot air out and an area for a mini evap swamp cooler to keep the garage somewhat nice for our 119 degree temperature here in Glendale AZ
We followed this article to build shelves in our previous garage. How we hated leaving them behind! We built them 4’ D x 12’ L to use sheets of plywood efficiently. The top shelf height was about 4″ below the garage door rails to accommodate the 4’ depth. We added support below each shelf, too. Lesson learned: Don’t forget to add the dimensions of your 2×4’s in every direction.
I just did this tonight with my mom and step dad. It took not even an hour!! The hardest part was the cleats since I don’t have a Kreg Jig and I suck at drilling on an angle… but this indeed was amazing!!!!! The only thing I did different was leveling: I left the upright pieces long on purpose, I placed and leveled the horizontal pieces onto the wall, then used the top of the very top shelf as my guide to cut the height of vertical pieces… that way I didn’t need to use shims (they were almost a whole inch in difference). I looooved this!!!
Not as easy as it seems my two by fours would not attach flush so I ended up having to drill a hole that was the size of the screw so the screw would slip right through and then drill it so that it would attach right up against the other 2 x 4 when attaching the legs. I ended up having to remove all the legs and redo them because of this . Also probably a good idea to buy better quality two by fours as well. But this technique is way easier than any other.
I made many shelving units that look exactly like this. The way I do it however i think is a little quicker and more accurate. First I typically build the whole frame first like you would building a wall that way there is no reason to use a Kreg jig, then simply screw the frame to the wall on the chalk line that I snapped. Second you assuming the floor is level doing it this way, if for example its in a sloped garage your shelves will be sloped as well. I screw all the shelf frames to the wall and then grab the corner verticals and level a shelf then screw it and tape measure the rest. Easy and accurate
Mine were a little more complex but I wanted them to be 30 inches from the wall to accommodate a 73 in TV. Overall the build cost me about 200 bucks and a day of building. I don’t have a pocket hole set so I used my square to connect the ends to keep them straight and used 2 spare blocks attached to the wall to help with holding up the shelving in place nice and level. Worked out pretty good.
Thank you for this. I have an rv with these awkward closets next to the bed. 😝 Ive been thinking hanging shelves would make them much more mariekono ready. perusal your article showed me what i need to think about…how to hang them so they dont pull out if the top!! Seems basic, but i would have made them and not thought about it beforehand if i hadnt watched you. So, thank you. Ill go out and poke around and see whatwill work before i desing them now. 2:56
I like the sound of easy even fast but cheap? Hey it`s your home. When affixing the first 2 x against the wall you might want to use a bit longer screw ! You are going through 1 & a half inches of wood plus 5/8 inch wallboard which is required to be firecode in any garage in America.so you at best are left with a bite into the studs of 7/8 of a inch. Now most people, myself as well always overload shelves in the garage. As I said it`s your home and it`s only maybe a dollor more for 3 & 1/2 inch screws instead of 3 inch………
Hi, thx for the article. I just had quick question and I dont know if anyone asked this already… For the side small support woods,.. you listed on the website to use 21″ long cleats..but if you are using 2×4 wood for the long part of the shelving… wouldnt that make the gap 21″(cleats)+2″+2″= 25 inches. Therefore, when you lay down your plywood board that you cut in half to get 24″….where did that 1″ go? thank you and I hope I am asking the question clearly.
Wow great article! Tip to any amateurs like me….. I was frustrated and annoyed when I got to the vertical legs and realized that the me wasn’t square towards the entry of my garage, (my vertical 2×4 was about an inch taller then my top horizontal shelf support) and I KNEW I did everything level! I quickly realized it was because I did not account for the bevel of my Garage floor to help the water run out. Nothing a saws all won’t fix but would have been easier to trim beforehand. I’m not a huge construction DIY’er but had a rough picture in my head of what I wanted. Stopped at Home Depot and bought 11 84inch 2×4 and 2 sheets of plywood. Watched this article when I got home and was able to build the entire frame in 20 minutes, just need to rip my Plywood to finish tonight. And also by one or two 2×4 for the braces. Thanks for the great article though.
Great article – I think it should be pointed out that the trick for the front-section only works if the garage floor is flat and level. If the floor slopes down from the walls, like for drainage purposes, then one would have to account for that, otherwise the shelves would not be level from back to front.
Okay, so this is a little bit confusing because your other two shelves you put together differently than your first shelf. It would have been nice to see the first shelf fully put together because it’s up against the left wall where the other two are up against the right wall. But, I’ll figure it out.
Hi there, I have just discovered your website, and firstly thanks for your clear, straight forward instructions, I find your manner very relaxing and your projects straight forward and practical. Now for my question, I live in an old house in the U.K. and I’d like to build a build in wardrobe (you say closet) across the length of his bedroom, half way along there is a chimney breast, also our walls are brick and plaster, rather than plasterboard/drywall like a lot of the US. Do you think that, and adaptation of this project could be made which could have sliding doors built onto the front to make the desired outcome?
Nice build, but this method will only work IF your garage floor is perfectly level. Of course the house wall will be close to level BUT going to the side walls you need to account for garage floor drainage. You can make your uprights adjustable or just use ugly shims. Temporarily attach the uprights and re attach to compensate for grade….thanks
I recently made this same build to grow plants indoors. One little problem though. One of the shorter 2x4s sticking out of the wall is really getting in the way of allowing my grow lights to spread. It’s on the right side, similar to 2:05. Would I ruin the integrity of the structure or would it be in danger of collapsing by removing just one 2×4 attached to the wall?
Thank you very much. Your article was very helpful. With material type and dimension alterations, am building a bookshelf system in my library possible by your article because it inspired ideas for a fast and inexpensive shelving system that is functional and attractive. Thank you very much. have a nice day.
I built a similar piece, but constructed it a little differently as I was by myself. I laid the second rows of 2×4’s on top of the ones screwed to the wall. I put a small 2×4 block under each upright and screwed the upright to the top 2×4 at each level. When the uprights are all screwed to the second 2×4 at each level, just lift it off. They are spaced perfectly.
I have just two comments on the method shown for building shelves in one’s garage. First, why is it necessary to have the 2 x 4 up-right? My guess is that the shelf will hold more weight. Assuming that to be correct, what amount of weight can the average person lift up over their head? Or, in other words, what are you storing in a common garage that is that heavy, engine blocks, transmissions, bags of cement? Second, that same upright board actually takes up floor space, and creates an obstacle to sweep around. There is a just as simple way to build shelves that will hold 200 pounds per 4 foot length without the need for the vertical board in place. Beyond that, it’s your garage. Build it the way you think is best, I guess.
This type of shelving is, indeed, very easy and relatively low cost to build. The only issue I have is you have to put up with the “upright leg” that’s now on the floor to sweep around and if you’re one to want to rinse out the winter dirt and crud, that “upright” posses another issue. They are definitely very sturdy but just exactly what are you going to store on these shelves? Engine blocks or several bags of ready mix? There is a way that eliminates the upright being used, that I found is very strong and simple to use.
Buy plastic totes with solid lids. Space uprights to fit bin size. Use alpha or number system label on each bin.then get home inventory software and photo content each bin. Put a clipboard and excellent spreadsheet. Use hardware sporting goods yard care hobbies category in spreadsheet. Also give each family member a container. Air tight totes deals with dust. A leaf blower can clean shelves
Thank you Ana! After my house build I accumulated some extra 2×4’s and plywood. Instead of throwing them in the dumpster, I built these on my garage walls by myself. Now everything (o.k., most things) are up off the floor. They turned out perfectly and were very easy if you just have a little knowledge of builiding. Your tutorial was quick and to the point.
Or spend less than $100.00 and purchase a heavy duty plastic shelving from The Home Depot. In addition, if you are not sure if you are going to stay your home, the shelving is portable, not to mention, not drilling holes into your garage walls which may lower the value of your home slightly. Just a thought ….
I swear your diy’s are always amazing but your thought process and the way you execute things always blows my mind! You make it look so effortless! Also, you could try putting the rope in a mesh bag and just tossing it in your washing machine to get rid of the smell. Love that little elevator scene with you whispering to yourself “gentlegentlegentle” lol!! 3:43
What I would like to know is, if you build shelves on the side of the garage as shown in the article, how do you get your car door open when you pull in!!! My car door hits the side wall now, so if you build a shelf right up against the door website, do you have to crawl over the console and get out on the passenger side?
Just did a set and it barely fit along my garage wall. Did 16″ shelves and used 1 4×8 sheet of 7/16 plywood at $15 and 11 2x4x8 at like $4 each.. Cost about $55-60 and worked a treat. Took a bit longer than expected but i havent done a good woodwork project in a while.. this was just what i needed for my new home’s garage… Now i need to make 2 more at 4ft lengths for my tools and a few more of my gfs crap.. theyre sturdy as hell and solid.. glad I made em
This might already be in one of the comments. I did this and after I took it lose from the back and moved it forward and attached several boards to tie them together I noticed something did’t look right. I grabbed my level and as I suspected it was due to the slope on the garage floor. My shelves are 19″ deep and are off only about 1/4″ nothing that isn’t easily taken care of. Just thought I would point this out. Still going to be much better than what I started in my shop.
BS, nothing is easy—in my shop 🤣. Works great if your floors are perfect. In my garage the floors have a noticeable rise right up against the walls (over 1/2″ in some places)—meaning there is a slight down angle on the shelf back to front if you don’t account for the drop. Also I suck at buying lumber. The stuff that I buy can be off by quite a bit (I’ve seen up to 3/8″ off length-wise) between pieces. All fixable. Good luck with your build!
I bought the stuff and built this in about 2 hours for my new shed/workshop! Thank you for the easy to follow instructions and the on point demonstration! I usually measure 2 or 3 times and still wind up making a crooked too short cut. The confidence your article gave me helped me turn out a project that looks “almost” like I paid someone. God bless! Thank you!